Re: [MBZ] New motor mounts bad?

2011-07-17 Thread Hans Neureiter
They could be bad. Rubber deteriorates with age, regardless of use. If the
were on the  shelve for 20 years?
I bought a set of brand new fork gaiters for my '72 Triumph. They didn't
survive installation.

On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 9:47 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 When I did all the engine work to my 92 300SD I replaced the motor mounts.
  They never did seem exactly smooth but every time I drive the thing its
 worse and worse.  Today I drove it after finding both sets of keys that have
 been lost for a couple of months (one was in the drawer where they were
 supposed to be, the other was actually laying in the back seat of the car)
 and the thing just vibrates like crazy at idle like the mounts are
 completely colapsed.  WTF?  I have about 350 miles on these mounts, anybody
 ever seen bad mounts straight out of the box?  Should I make Rusty send me
 new ones?

 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
  92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
 http://www.okiebenz.com


 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
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Re: [MBZ] New motor mounts bad?

2011-07-17 Thread Hans Neureiter
Did you check the damper on the IP?

On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 9:47 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 When I did all the engine work to my 92 300SD I replaced the motor mounts.
  They never did seem exactly smooth but every time I drive the thing its
 worse and worse.  Today I drove it after finding both sets of keys that have
 been lost for a couple of months (one was in the drawer where they were
 supposed to be, the other was actually laying in the back seat of the car)
 and the thing just vibrates like crazy at idle like the mounts are
 completely colapsed.  WTF?  I have about 350 miles on these mounts, anybody
 ever seen bad mounts straight out of the box?  Should I make Rusty send me
 new ones?

 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
  92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
 http://www.okiebenz.com


 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
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Re: [MBZ] New motor mounts bad?

2011-07-17 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Here is my extreme view on this topic:

This is exactly why you shouldn't buy rubber parts (including suspension)
from anywhere but the dealer.  As hard as guys like Rusty may try,
aftermarket parts are turning to crap quickly.  OE quality, etc, is all BS.
 Unless the part has a three pointed star stamped in it, it can't be
trusted.

I buy enough parts that I have two dealers flighting for my business with
excellent pricing.  With the amount you buy, you should be able to negotiate
something too.

Jaime


On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 10:47 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 When I did all the engine work to my 92 300SD I replaced the motor mounts.
  They never did seem exactly smooth but every time I drive the thing its
 worse and worse.  Today I drove it after finding both sets of keys that have
 been lost for a couple of months (one was in the drawer where they were
 supposed to be, the other was actually laying in the back seat of the car)
 and the thing just vibrates like crazy at idle like the mounts are
 completely colapsed.  WTF?  I have about 350 miles on these mounts, anybody
 ever seen bad mounts straight out of the box?  Should I make Rusty send me
 new ones?

 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
  92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
 http://www.okiebenz.com


 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pressure Converter for AT - what's it good for?

2011-07-17 Thread Dieselhead
A friend of mine made a hydrogen turbine engine out of a 
turbocharger.  It was quite impressive when it was running.




How is it that a turbo would use heat energy to stuff more air in?  Seems
it is transfering kinetic energy from the exhaust to the intake via the
shaft between the two compressor sections to me.  A turbocharger is not a
heat engine.

It is indeed a heat engine.  You can rig up a combustion chamber and 
make a simple jet engine out of them.


A turbocharger is a turbine driven compressor.  While there is a 
kinetic component, the majority of the power delivered to the 
compressor is from the expansion of the exhaust gasses in the 
turbine.  Same principle as a jet engine, just a single stage rather 
than the more typical multiple stages (in practice, usually 8 stage 
compressor and triple stage turbine, but I'm way out of date on 
those things these days).


This is the great advantage of a turbocharger -- all the energy is 
normally wasted out the tailpipe as heat, the turbo puts it to work 
compressing the inlet charge air.


Note that a crankshaft driven blower is purely parasitic -- it uses 
output bp to drive the compressor, not free waste heat!  That is 
not to say there are not advantages to it as well (like fixed ratio 
of input over atmospheric pressure, for instance -- constant boost 
rather than variable).


Peter


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Re: [MBZ] New motor mounts bad?

2011-07-17 Thread LarryT
Many have talked about the effects on Rubber and Age - but if your MMs are 
the same as on my 91 300D  they are not the typical rubber mount but more of 
a hydraulic damper with a fluid container inside the metal shell that the 
engine rides on.


Any signs of leakage?

LarryT
91 300D



-Original Message- 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin

Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 10:47 PM
To: mercedes Mailing List
Subject: [MBZ] New motor mounts bad?

When I did all the engine work to my 92 300SD I replaced the motor
mounts.  They never did seem exactly smooth but every time I drive
the thing its worse and worse.  Today I drove it after finding
both sets of keys that have been lost for a couple of months (one
was in the drawer where they were supposed to be, the other was
actually laying in the back seat of the car) and the thing just
vibrates like crazy at idle like the mounts are completely
colapsed.  WTF?  I have about 350 miles on these mounts, anybody
ever seen bad mounts straight out of the box?  Should I make Rusty
send me new ones?

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
 92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
http://www.okiebenz.com


___
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Re: [MBZ] Crush cars

2011-07-17 Thread Rick Knoble
Got any '85 300d's ?

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 16, 2011, at 5:53 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 Oh I got a bunch still on the car come buy some 123s
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Jul 16, 2011, at 5:49 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
 Dang it! :(
 
 Rick
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Jul 16, 2011, at 3:28 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:
 
 I crushed a bunch of them last weekend
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Jul 16, 2011, at 3:11 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:
 
 Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net writes:
 
 I crushed 2 116's today and got $900 for them 
 
 Do you have any non-rusty W123 fenders?
 
 Allan
 -- 
 1983 300D
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] New motor mounts bad?

2011-07-17 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

There is no damper on the IP.

On 7/17/2011 6:57 AM, Hans Neureiter wrote:

Did you check the damper on the IP?

On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 9:47 PM, Kaleb C. Striplinka...@striplin.netwrote:


When I did all the engine work to my 92 300SD I replaced the motor mounts.
  They never did seem exactly smooth but every time I drive the thing its
worse and worse.  Today I drove it after finding both sets of keys that have
been lost for a couple of months (one was in the drawer where they were
supposed to be, the other was actually laying in the back seat of the car)
and the thing just vibrates like crazy at idle like the mounts are
completely colapsed.  WTF?  I have about 350 miles on these mounts, anybody
ever seen bad mounts straight out of the box?  Should I make Rusty send me
new ones?

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
  92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
http://www.okiebenz.com


__**_
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives 
http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
 92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
http://www.okiebenz.com


___
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Re: [MBZ] New motor mounts bad?

2011-07-17 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
They are the same or very similar to the mounts on your 124.  I am 
going to have to crawl up under there and look at them I suppose.  
I did discover I did not replace the tranny mount when I replaced 
the motor mounts so maybe that is it.


On 7/17/2011 8:14 AM, LarryT wrote:
Many have talked about the effects on Rubber and Age - but if 
your MMs are the same as on my 91 300D  they are not the typical 
rubber mount but more of a hydraulic damper with a fluid 
container inside the metal shell that the engine rides on.


Any signs of leakage?

LarryT
91 300D



-Original Message- From: Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 10:47 PM
To: mercedes Mailing List
Subject: [MBZ] New motor mounts bad?

When I did all the engine work to my 92 300SD I replaced the motor
mounts.  They never did seem exactly smooth but every time I drive
the thing its worse and worse.  Today I drove it after finding
both sets of keys that have been lost for a couple of months (one
was in the drawer where they were supposed to be, the other was
actually laying in the back seat of the car) and the thing just
vibrates like crazy at idle like the mounts are completely
colapsed.  WTF?  I have about 350 miles on these mounts, anybody
ever seen bad mounts straight out of the box?  Should I make Rusty
send me new ones?



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
 92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
http://www.okiebenz.com


___
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Re: [MBZ] Crush cars

2011-07-17 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

no but I have some 82 and 83's

On 7/17/2011 8:44 AM, Rick Knoble wrote:

Got any '85 300d's ?

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 16, 2011, at 5:53 PM, Kaleb C. Striplinka...@striplin.net  wrote:


Oh I got a bunch still on the car come buy some 123s

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 16, 2011, at 5:49 PM, Rick Knoblerickkno...@hotmail.com  wrote:


Dang it! :(

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 16, 2011, at 3:28 PM, Kaleb C. Striplinka...@striplin.net  wrote:


I crushed a bunch of them last weekend

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 16, 2011, at 3:11 PM, Allan Streibstr...@cs.indiana.edu  wrote:


Kaleb C. Striplinka...@striplin.net  writes:


I crushed 2 116's today and got $900 for them

Do you have any non-rusty W123 fenders?

Allan
--
1983 300D

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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1390 / Virus Database: 1516/3769 - Release Date: 07/16/11




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
 92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Stop me before I buy a Biobuddy

2011-07-17 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Hi Andrew. When I was living on DC I used to go to a gas station new Mt Airy 
Maryland and buy B100 at the pump. I would fill up my tank and then another 
four five gallon yellow diesel fuel containers in my trunk. This would last me 
about three months. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 16, 2011, at 4:40 PM, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:

I have pretty much ruled out becoming a home distiller after reading  all
these excellent posts.  The better choice would appear to be installing a
system in the car to burn filtered WVO.

On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 1:21 PM, ernest breakfield 
erne...@backyardengineering.org wrote:

Andrew,

  will find much information and disinformation on the topic of BioD here
and elsewhere. (for example, the horror stories you hear about BioD eating
fuel lines; i've got over 70,000 miles on almost exclusively straight BioD
on the same fuel lines that were in my '85 300D when i started using BioD
over 7 years ago, and there still hasn't been any evidence of any need to
change them. all you need to do if you're using quality fuel is watch them
like you'd watch any other fuel lines from a previous decade, and change
them out when they show signs of needing it.)

  as for availability of source oil, it's unlikely that anyone outside of
your area will be able to tell you what the actual availability is in your
area, and even then it'll vary from restaurant to restaurant. (generally,
cleaner/less used WVO is better; sushi joints usually have cleaner and less
overused oil than burger joints.)

  bottom line, if it's only cost effectiveness you're looking for you have
to figure out if it's even worth it to you to go through the hassles of
making BioD. even if the source oil is free and your time is worth nothing,
how much would you need to use before the savings would pay for the
equipment and the energy to run it? if you're only using ~10G/wk, it'd be
over a year before you even paid for the equipment, and we're still not
counting the cost of any of the chemicals.
  (i'm not even going to get into the byproduct waste disposal issue or
the concerns about having some of those chemicals around, or the mess,...
and am ignoring the fear-mongering about jackbooted thugs hired by renderers
or our guvernment coming through your doors due to perceived tax and various
regulatory issues. but if you check into it, you might find we can't even
legally haul WVO without a renderers license and liability coverage!)

  if you're trying to use BioD for other reasons (like reducing petroleum
dependency, environmental concerns, or just the joy of experimental
hobbying,) your calculations of whether it's worth the fuss might be
different. in that case, i'd probably encourage searching our your local B99
vendor and buying commercially produced stuff, and let someone else deal
with all the issues.


cheers!
e



On 15/Jul/11 10:59, andrew strasfogel wrote:

We own three W123 turbodiesels so this is very tempting.  Cost is about
$1700 + $450 more for the dry washing feature.  We have lots of
restaurants that probably would be happy to get rid of their fryer
grease; the main snag might be the cost and ease of obtaining NAOH
(caustic
soda).  I also wonder how much lye and water is consumed per batch, and
what
the brew would do to our fuel lines.,

http://biobuddy.us.com/faq.**html http://biobuddy.us.com/faq.html
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[MBZ] 123 PS pump threads

2011-07-17 Thread Dieselhead
I got the engines swapped in the 80 240D yesterday.  I took the PS 
hose fittings off at the PS pump, to lessen the mess of fluid leakage 
and because they are easy to reach.  When I went to hook up the high 
pressure hose (the back one) to the new pump, I can't get the 
threads to start.


So i compared the threads on the hoses from the old engine and the 
new engine.  They are the same.


Next I tried to thread the loose hose into the pump on the old 
engine.  Can't get it to start either.


What is up with this?   Has anyone else encountered this problem ever?


I guess the next thing is to figure out the thread dia. 14mm x 1mm or 
1.25 pitch?   Tomorrow I can see if I can buy a thread tap to run in 
the hole, and maybe a die to run the hose thread into.


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Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pressure Converter for AT - what's it good for?

2011-07-17 Thread Allan Streib
Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com writes:

 A friend of mine made a hydrogen turbine engine out of a turbocharger.
 It was quite impressive when it was running.

Did he do anything useful with it?

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] New motor mounts bad?

2011-07-17 Thread OK Don
The new mounts I got from Rusty for the Snookmobile 300D are still fine
after all these years.
When I installed the factory reman crate engine in the '76 300D, I bought
new mounts from the local indy who got them from the dealer in Kansas
City. One of them collapsed on letting the engine down. I looked everywhere
else for that rattle for two weeks before looking at the obviously bad
mount.

On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 9:47 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 When I did all the engine work to my 92 300SD I replaced the motor mounts.
  They never did seem exactly smooth but every time I drive the thing its
 worse and worse.  Today I drove it after finding both sets of keys that have
 been lost for a couple of months (one was in the drawer where they were
 supposed to be, the other was actually laying in the back seat of the car)
 and the thing just vibrates like crazy at idle like the mounts are
 completely colapsed.  WTF?  I have about 350 miles on these mounts, anybody
 ever seen bad mounts straight out of the box?  Should I make Rusty send me
 new ones?

 --
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] 123 PS pump threads

2011-07-17 Thread Jim Cathey

I find it easiest to start threads when the pump body
is loose too.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pressure Converter for AT - what's it good for?

2011-07-17 Thread Dieselhead

It was stage 1

For  stage 2 he built a hydrogen turbine.

I'm not sure if he ever got to stage 3.

He also modified briggs engines to run on hydrogen
and modified briggs engines with fuel injection and had them meeting 
CARB requirements for cars.


He was out riding his mountain bike and died of a massive heart attack.


Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com writes:


 A friend of mine made a hydrogen turbine engine out of a turbocharger.
 It was quite impressive when it was running.


Did he do anything useful with it?

Allan
--
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] 123 PS pump threads

2011-07-17 Thread Dieselhead
I got more of the fluid out of the pump, and it looks like there is a 
part of a thread off the hose broken off inside the pump thread.  SO 
I think it is best to get a tap and die and chase the threads.  At 
least now I see a reason.  Before i saw that it didn't made sense.




I find it easiest to start threads when the pump body
is loose too.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] New motor mounts bad?

2011-07-17 Thread Dieselhead
I have had new MB Factory parts from the dealer fail immediately too. 
Not motor mounts, but other things.   Even MB is not above and beyond 
gremlins, shoddy suppliers and human error






The new mounts I got from Rusty for the Snookmobile 300D are still fine
after all these years.
When I installed the factory reman crate engine in the '76 300D, I bought
new mounts from the local indy who got them from the dealer in Kansas
City. One of them collapsed on letting the engine down. I looked everywhere
else for that rattle for two weeks before looking at the obviously bad
mount.

On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 9:47 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:


 When I did all the engine work to my 92 300SD I replaced the motor mounts.
  They never did seem exactly smooth but every time I drive the thing its
 worse and worse.  Today I drove it after finding both sets of keys that have
 been lost for a couple of months (one was in the drawer where they were
 supposed to be, the other was actually laying in the back seat of the car)
 and the thing just vibrates like crazy at idle like the mounts are
 completely colapsed.  WTF?  I have about 350 miles on these mounts, anybody
 ever seen bad mounts straight out of the box?  Should I make Rusty send me
 new ones?

 --

OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] New motor mounts bad?

2011-07-17 Thread Greg Fiorentino
The tranny mount was my guess as well.  That drove me nuts on my 79 300TD
after the engine mounts were done.

Greg

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 7:51 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] New motor mounts bad?

They are the same or very similar to the mounts on your 124.  I am 
going to have to crawl up under there and look at them I suppose.  
I did discover I did not replace the tranny mount when I replaced 
the motor mounts so maybe that is it.

On 7/17/2011 8:14 AM, LarryT wrote:
 Many have talked about the effects on Rubber and Age - but if 
 your MMs are the same as on my 91 300D  they are not the typical 
 rubber mount but more of a hydraulic damper with a fluid 
 container inside the metal shell that the engine rides on.

 Any signs of leakage?

 LarryT
 91 300D



 -Original Message- From: Kaleb C. Striplin
 Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 10:47 PM
 To: mercedes Mailing List
 Subject: [MBZ] New motor mounts bad?

 When I did all the engine work to my 92 300SD I replaced the motor
 mounts.  They never did seem exactly smooth but every time I drive
 the thing its worse and worse.  Today I drove it after finding
 both sets of keys that have been lost for a couple of months (one
 was in the drawer where they were supposed to be, the other was
 actually laying in the back seat of the car) and the thing just
 vibrates like crazy at idle like the mounts are completely
 colapsed.  WTF?  I have about 350 miles on these mounts, anybody
 ever seen bad mounts straight out of the box?  Should I make Rusty
 send me new ones?


-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
  92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
http://www.okiebenz.com


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[MBZ] WVO 300TD and 300D Turbo

2011-07-17 Thread Rick Hawkins Java

Folks

It's interesting to listen to the WVO and biodiesel discussions. This  
would have been heresy a few years ago, but 4 buck diesel has softened  
you people's hearts!


My PERSONAL EXPERIENCE is that i've been running a 300TD (1982) on WVO  
for about the last 5 years. The car is unmodified. In my experience,  
the initial problem was all the petro diesel crud in the tank. The WVO  
cleans that out. Removing and cleaning tanks is probably the best way  
to start.


On a 300TD you can drain the tank and remove and clean the strainer  
easily at any time that you have low (a few gallons) of fuel in the  
tank. I do that probably every 6 months on the 300TD. On a 300D it's a  
little harder since the fuel supply line is in the center of the  
strainer, but it's still not too bad, just messier.


At any rate, i run 100% WVO down to temps of about 42 F (which is a  
lot of the time down here in north Georgia). If it's colder, i blend  
with petro diesel. A 50/50 mix will start and run at temps of say,  
down to about 35F and colder than that i sometimes add 1 gal RUG (reg  
unl gas) to a full tank.


I've not been stranded.

In the colder months, it's not uncommon for me to have to change the  
clear prefilter on the fuel line, but i generally don't change the  
spin on fuel filter any more often than every year or year and a half.


I've driven the 300TD this way for probably 85,000 miles. About 10k  
miles ago, the car wouldn't start without starting fluid even when the  
temps for 50F or more. All the glow plugs, etc were good. I finally  
rebuilt the injectors with new monark nozzles at a cost of only about  
$100 and some time.


As to the cost benefit ratio, the 300D turbo car (an extremely clean,  
nice running 1984 that i bought for our 17 year old daughter) only  
cost $1650. Remember this is a rust free georgia car!!  In 8 months  
she's probably driven it 5000 miles. at 4 gals per 100 miles that's  
200 gals of diesel at $4x200=$800 if my math is right. The scrap value  
of the car is $450 more or less, now, so this is pretty cheap driving!!


It's a problem getting enough WVO these days. We only have a couple of  
restaurants that supply us, but i'm not paying for it. I'm about to  
advertise with Craig that i'm willing to buy nice clean WVO for  
something like 50 cents or more per gal.


We filter by pouring the oil thru 55 gallon barrel top filters that  
are maybe 10 or 20 micron. Then we settle for a week or two and drain  
off settled out water, fat, etc  and then we pump it through a 5  
micron bag filter inside a filter housing. It's pretty clean, but  
could always be cleaner.


To add to the mid, i just bought a lovely 1992 isuzu NPR truck. This  
is a 14 foot box, cab over truck such as most furniture stores have.  
It has a 4 cylinder indirect injection engine with a Kiki (licensed by  
Bosch) pump. It seems Isuzu made and direct injection engine up till  
about 91 then changed the head and added prechambers making it  
indirect  until about 98 and then went back to direct injection in 99,  
i think. Their newer trucks are all direct and the newest stuff is  
quite electronically controlled.


I was lucky to get this clean truck for $2500  it's probably worth  
$5000 now since we fixed the AC and added 4 new tires (CL $200 for a  
like new set of 4 ...they are same 16 inch tires as F250 or something,  
so common).


The next project is to build a 2 tank heated WVO system which i'll do  
as soon as i find a nice tank of say 20 gals for petro diesel.


Feel free to email me directly or call me 1 pm to midnite or later 706  
540-3285 if you want to chat about this.


As for the time investment, i laugh every time i load eight   5 gal  
jugs in my car for a longish trip, realizing that they would cost  
twenty bucks

EACH if they were stinky petro diesel!!

My 2 cents worth  your results may vary and if you choose to do  
what i do, you do it at your own risk!


thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins

www.javaphoto.com
www.javacycles.com
LETTERPRESSES FOR SALE
www.ricktheprinter.com


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Re: [MBZ] WVO 300TD and 300D Turbo

2011-07-17 Thread Allan Streib
I agree that everyone is free to do what he wants with his own car.  To
me, diesel would need to be significantly more than $4/gal to make the
work of collecting, filtering, and using WVO worth the time.

Your comment of running WVO down to 42 degrees is interesting to me,
years ago I worked at a McDonalds and their fryer oil was solid at
room temperature.

Allan

Rick Hawkins Java macj...@aol.com writes:

 Folks

 It's interesting to listen to the WVO and biodiesel discussions. This
 would have been heresy a few years ago, but 4 buck diesel has softened
 you people's hearts!

 My PERSONAL EXPERIENCE is that i've been running a 300TD (1982) on WVO
 for about the last 5 years. The car is unmodified. In my experience,
 the initial problem was all the petro diesel crud in the tank. The WVO
 cleans that out. Removing and cleaning tanks is probably the best way
 to start.

 On a 300TD you can drain the tank and remove and clean the strainer
 easily at any time that you have low (a few gallons) of fuel in the
 tank. I do that probably every 6 months on the 300TD. On a 300D it's a
 little harder since the fuel supply line is in the center of the
 strainer, but it's still not too bad, just messier.

 At any rate, i run 100% WVO down to temps of about 42 F (which is a
 lot of the time down here in north Georgia). If it's colder, i blend
 with petro diesel. A 50/50 mix will start and run at temps of say,
 down to about 35F and colder than that i sometimes add 1 gal RUG (reg
 unl gas) to a full tank.

 I've not been stranded.

 In the colder months, it's not uncommon for me to have to change the
 clear prefilter on the fuel line, but i generally don't change the
 spin on fuel filter any more often than every year or year and a half.

 I've driven the 300TD this way for probably 85,000 miles. About 10k
 miles ago, the car wouldn't start without starting fluid even when the
 temps for 50F or more. All the glow plugs, etc were good. I finally
 rebuilt the injectors with new monark nozzles at a cost of only about
 $100 and some time.

 As to the cost benefit ratio, the 300D turbo car (an extremely clean,
 nice running 1984 that i bought for our 17 year old daughter) only
 cost $1650. Remember this is a rust free georgia car!!  In 8 months
 she's probably driven it 5000 miles. at 4 gals per 100 miles that's
 200 gals of diesel at $4x200=$800 if my math is right. The scrap value
 of the car is $450 more or less, now, so this is pretty cheap
 driving!!

 It's a problem getting enough WVO these days. We only have a couple of
 restaurants that supply us, but i'm not paying for it. I'm about to
 advertise with Craig that i'm willing to buy nice clean WVO for
 something like 50 cents or more per gal.

 We filter by pouring the oil thru 55 gallon barrel top filters that
 are maybe 10 or 20 micron. Then we settle for a week or two and drain
 off settled out water, fat, etc  and then we pump it through a 5
 micron bag filter inside a filter housing. It's pretty clean, but
 could always be cleaner.

 To add to the mid, i just bought a lovely 1992 isuzu NPR truck. This
 is a 14 foot box, cab over truck such as most furniture stores have.
 It has a 4 cylinder indirect injection engine with a Kiki (licensed by
 Bosch) pump. It seems Isuzu made and direct injection engine up till
 about 91 then changed the head and added prechambers making it
 indirect  until about 98 and then went back to direct injection in 99,
 i think. Their newer trucks are all direct and the newest stuff is
 quite electronically controlled.

 I was lucky to get this clean truck for $2500  it's probably worth
 $5000 now since we fixed the AC and added 4 new tires (CL $200 for a
 like new set of 4 ...they are same 16 inch tires as F250 or something,
 so common).

 The next project is to build a 2 tank heated WVO system which i'll do
 as soon as i find a nice tank of say 20 gals for petro diesel.

 Feel free to email me directly or call me 1 pm to midnite or later 706
 540-3285 if you want to chat about this.

 As for the time investment, i laugh every time i load eight   5 gal
 jugs in my car for a longish trip, realizing that they would cost
 twenty bucks
 EACH if they were stinky petro diesel!!

 My 2 cents worth  your results may vary and if you choose to do
 what i do, you do it at your own risk!

 thanks,

 xx rick
 Rick Hawkins

 www.javaphoto.com
 www.javacycles.com
 LETTERPRESSES FOR SALE
 www.ricktheprinter.com


 ___
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-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Crush cars

2011-07-17 Thread Bob Rentfro
Sotell us what you have left.

Bob R
On Jul 17, 2011 7:51 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:
 no but I have some 82 and 83's

 On 7/17/2011 8:44 AM, Rick Knoble wrote:
 Got any '85 300d's ?

 Rick
 Sent from my iPhone

 On Jul 16, 2011, at 5:53 PM, Kaleb C. Striplinka...@striplin.net
wrote:

 Oh I got a bunch still on the car come buy some 123s

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Jul 16, 2011, at 5:49 PM, Rick Knoblerickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Dang it! :(

 Rick
 Sent from my iPhone

 On Jul 16, 2011, at 3:28 PM, Kaleb C. Striplinka...@striplin.net
wrote:

 I crushed a bunch of them last weekend

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Jul 16, 2011, at 3:11 PM, Allan Streibstr...@cs.indiana.edu
wrote:

 Kaleb C. Striplinka...@striplin.net writes:

 I crushed 2 116's today and got $900 for them
 Do you have any non-rusty W123 fenders?

 Allan
 --
 1983 300D

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 -
 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 10.0.1390 / Virus Database: 1516/3769 - Release Date: 07/16/11



 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
 92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
 http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Delvac sale at Oreally?

2011-07-17 Thread Curt Raymond
Did you ever try to start a 616 at 0F? With 15w40 conventional oil it ain't 
gonna happen, 10w40 maybe. M1 5w40 is no big issue...

When I first got my '83 240D it leaked/consumed a little oil using M1 but 
nothing exciting. Then my brother in law gave me a gift card for an oil change 
which was conventional oil. After that it lost a quart every 1000 miles or so 
for the next 50,000 miles. I never did determine exactly where it was leaking 
from. Thats made me a little gun shy about switching back and forth between 
conventional and synthetic. Its irrational, my 240D was probably due to start 
leaking anyway...

My current '78 240D is great, its leaking/consuming around a quart in 2,000 
miles and improving with each oil change. M1 is cleaning/rejuvenating the seals 
(apparently) and making the leaks less.

Oh and I suspect the snowmobiling in Georgia sucks.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 18:08:42 + (UTC)
From: roger...@comcast.net
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Delvac sale at Oreally?
Message-ID:

867633617.716930.1310839722499.javamail.r...@sz0097a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

 Better for your car than what? M1? No.

You've got to remember there are other places where it gets cold in the winter. 
Living in New England Mobil 1 is your best friend when it comes to cold weather 
starts, even 15w50 is... But a little of each in the freezer and see which one 
pours better, do you want to depend on the honey thick stuff to get to the 
bearings in a cold start?

-Curt

Curt,
Sorry that anyone lives in that God Awful cold of the Northern climes. What did 
you do before Mobil 1? I guess that's why people used to ride horses as 
apparently no engine would survive in cold climates without Mobil 1 synthetic 
:-)) Gee, when I lived in the North, I used 10W40 from Valvoline and never had 
problems. Of course, I didn't take the head off my engine once a month to be 
sure there wasn't any wear.
I know what you are saying about cold starts. So, move South like I did and you 
won't have that worry anymore. There's still room!!! Or at least until we get 
annexed by Mexico.
Best Wishes,
R oger Hale
Monroe, Ga. 

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Re: [MBZ] Stop me before I buy a Biobuddy

2011-07-17 Thread Curt Raymond
I'm not opposed to WVO conversions per-say, I'm opposed to poor WVO 
conversions. Unfortunately it seems like the bulk of them are poor conversions. 
A boat gas tank in the trunk is a poor conversion, its the hallmark of a poor 
conversion as a matter of fact.

A good conversion pre-heats the oil with engine coolant and then final heats 
electrically at the injection lines so the oil is hot hot when it goes into the 
injectors which ensures proper atomization, anything else is junk. Poor 
atomization is the real problem, IP killing is a secondary issue.

Honestly Andrew, you don't drive enough to even consider it. I use ~ 15 gallons 
a week in a car that gets half again better mileage (190D 2.2l) so we can 
safely assume I drive more than twice as much as you. (around 30k a year) With 
WVO you won't be able to run on WVO all that much because you won't be getting 
the oil hot with your pre-heat plus you need a purge cycle before shutdown...

I've been down this same road spec-ing out the idea, if I had a really easy 
source of lots of oil I'd consider WVO but I'd plan on $1000 at LEAST for my 
conversion. Then theres still that sticky paying road tax thing...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 22:50:27 -0400
From: andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Stop me before I buy a Biobuddy
Message-ID:
CAC35L=s4znX5nf-B3ntZ5OF=X6tN03-_6sNV7di=07fdbty...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I have seen a 1983 300D converted to a dual system run without any problems
on WVO and regular diesel.  If I did a conversion it would be to my other
car, the 1983 300TD with 325K miles.  But don't hold your breath...

On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 10:32 PM, Walt Zarnoch zarnoch...@gmail.com wrote:

 In my neck of the woods, the only way to buy a 617 is to wait for 3
 years till one comes into a yard, buy a craigslist crackvertised car
 to strip then crush, or have one shipped in and pay big $$$.

 I guess that skews my perspective, but the viscosity difference is a
 real issue. The difference in HP needed to turn the pump can cause the
 injection advance mechanism on the intermediate shaft (behind vac
 pump) to not advance at it's set rate as well.

 It will run, you can drive, but I cringe whenever I see it done.

 It's up to the person doing it to evaluate what the time filtering,
 processing, etc is worth to them.

 I personally will pay the cash for the pre-made Bio or petro, since my
 time is worth more to me than the money going into the tank. You can
 always make more money. You can never make more time.

 Walt

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Tonight I'm a motorcycle mechanic

2011-07-17 Thread Craig
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 18:55:02 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 My wife's motorcycle hasn't been out of the garage this year, the
 starter was acting poorly, it would disengage as it cranked, not good
 and it scared the crap out of her.
 
 If you've never seen one motorcycle starters are interesting, and this
 one especially because it's chain drive. Its got a non-reversing (my
 term, I don't know the proper one)

Sprag or overrunning clutch. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sprag_clutch


 Anyway, not MB but quite satisfying.

Contratulations!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] WVO 300TD and 300D Turbo

2011-07-17 Thread andrew strasfogel
Rick, did you have to modify your engine at all?

On Sun, Jul 17, 2011 at 2:46 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 I agree that everyone is free to do what he wants with his own car.  To
 me, diesel would need to be significantly more than $4/gal to make the
 work of collecting, filtering, and using WVO worth the time.

 Your comment of running WVO down to 42 degrees is interesting to me,
 years ago I worked at a McDonalds and their fryer oil was solid at
 room temperature.

 Allan

 Rick Hawkins Java macj...@aol.com writes:

  Folks
 
  It's interesting to listen to the WVO and biodiesel discussions. This
  would have been heresy a few years ago, but 4 buck diesel has softened
  you people's hearts!
 
  My PERSONAL EXPERIENCE is that i've been running a 300TD (1982) on WVO
  for about the last 5 years. The car is unmodified. In my experience,
  the initial problem was all the petro diesel crud in the tank. The WVO
  cleans that out. Removing and cleaning tanks is probably the best way
  to start.
 
  On a 300TD you can drain the tank and remove and clean the strainer
  easily at any time that you have low (a few gallons) of fuel in the
  tank. I do that probably every 6 months on the 300TD. On a 300D it's a
  little harder since the fuel supply line is in the center of the
  strainer, but it's still not too bad, just messier.
 
  At any rate, i run 100% WVO down to temps of about 42 F (which is a
  lot of the time down here in north Georgia). If it's colder, i blend
  with petro diesel. A 50/50 mix will start and run at temps of say,
  down to about 35F and colder than that i sometimes add 1 gal RUG (reg
  unl gas) to a full tank.
 
  I've not been stranded.
 
  In the colder months, it's not uncommon for me to have to change the
  clear prefilter on the fuel line, but i generally don't change the
  spin on fuel filter any more often than every year or year and a half.
 
  I've driven the 300TD this way for probably 85,000 miles. About 10k
  miles ago, the car wouldn't start without starting fluid even when the
  temps for 50F or more. All the glow plugs, etc were good. I finally
  rebuilt the injectors with new monark nozzles at a cost of only about
  $100 and some time.
 
  As to the cost benefit ratio, the 300D turbo car (an extremely clean,
  nice running 1984 that i bought for our 17 year old daughter) only
  cost $1650. Remember this is a rust free georgia car!!  In 8 months
  she's probably driven it 5000 miles. at 4 gals per 100 miles that's
  200 gals of diesel at $4x200=$800 if my math is right. The scrap value
  of the car is $450 more or less, now, so this is pretty cheap
  driving!!
 
  It's a problem getting enough WVO these days. We only have a couple of
  restaurants that supply us, but i'm not paying for it. I'm about to
  advertise with Craig that i'm willing to buy nice clean WVO for
  something like 50 cents or more per gal.
 
  We filter by pouring the oil thru 55 gallon barrel top filters that
  are maybe 10 or 20 micron. Then we settle for a week or two and drain
  off settled out water, fat, etc  and then we pump it through a 5
  micron bag filter inside a filter housing. It's pretty clean, but
  could always be cleaner.
 
  To add to the mid, i just bought a lovely 1992 isuzu NPR truck. This
  is a 14 foot box, cab over truck such as most furniture stores have.
  It has a 4 cylinder indirect injection engine with a Kiki (licensed by
  Bosch) pump. It seems Isuzu made and direct injection engine up till
  about 91 then changed the head and added prechambers making it
  indirect  until about 98 and then went back to direct injection in 99,
  i think. Their newer trucks are all direct and the newest stuff is
  quite electronically controlled.
 
  I was lucky to get this clean truck for $2500  it's probably worth
  $5000 now since we fixed the AC and added 4 new tires (CL $200 for a
  like new set of 4 ...they are same 16 inch tires as F250 or something,
  so common).
 
  The next project is to build a 2 tank heated WVO system which i'll do
  as soon as i find a nice tank of say 20 gals for petro diesel.
 
  Feel free to email me directly or call me 1 pm to midnite or later 706
  540-3285 if you want to chat about this.
 
  As for the time investment, i laugh every time i load eight   5 gal
  jugs in my car for a longish trip, realizing that they would cost
  twenty bucks
  EACH if they were stinky petro diesel!!
 
  My 2 cents worth  your results may vary and if you choose to do
  what i do, you do it at your own risk!
 
  thanks,
 
  xx rick
  Rick Hawkins
 
  www.javaphoto.com
  www.javacycles.com
  LETTERPRESSES FOR SALE
  www.ricktheprinter.com
 
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 

 --
 1983 300D

 

Re: [MBZ] Crush cars

2011-07-17 Thread andrew strasfogel
YES - I have a 1985 300D, minus a chassis and transmission!

This could equally be described as a1985 300D turbodiesel engine.  It's
sitting  in a shop in Silver Spring, MD waiting for a new foster (or  maybe
a permanent) home.  I am not asking  a lot of money for it either.

Andrew

On Sun, Jul 17, 2011 at 9:44 AM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Got any '85 300d's ?

 Rick
 Sent from my iPhone

 On Jul 16, 2011, at 5:53 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
 wrote:

  Oh I got a bunch still on the car come buy some 123s
 
  Sent from my iPhone
 
  On Jul 16, 2011, at 5:49 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
  Dang it! :(
 
  Rick
  Sent from my iPhone
 
  On Jul 16, 2011, at 3:28 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
 wrote:
 
  I crushed a bunch of them last weekend
 
  Sent from my iPhone
 
  On Jul 16, 2011, at 3:11 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
 wrote:
 
  Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net writes:
 
  I crushed 2 116's today and got $900 for them
 
  Do you have any non-rusty W123 fenders?
 
  Allan
  --
  1983 300D
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Tonight I'm a motorcycle mechanic

2011-07-17 Thread Curt Raymond
Thanks.

It worked out too, I ran it up to operating temp before I finished putting it 
together and couldn't find any leaks. Did it again after reassembly and 
couldn't find any leaks.

Was cleaning up the work area when I realized that one of the fork seals must 
have COMPLETELY let go, oil had puddled on the tire. At first I thought it was 
brake fluid but after further inspection I don't think so since the caliper 
seems dry and still has good braking action. I had fork seals put in a couple 
years ago but I think they were probably aftermarket. I'm figuring I need 'em 
again, will source them from the Kawasaki dealer this time.

Anybody ever done fork seals? Is it a hard job?

-Curt

Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 16:22:00 -0600
From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Tonight I'm a motorcycle mechanic
Message-ID: 20110717162200.1878eff2.diese...@pisquared.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 18:55:02 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 My wife's motorcycle hasn't been out of the garage this year, the
 starter was acting poorly, it would disengage as it cranked, not good
 and it scared the crap out of her.

 If you've never seen one motorcycle starters are interesting, and this
 one especially because it's chain drive. Its got a non-reversing (my
 term, I don't know the proper one)

Sprag or overrunning clutch. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sprag_clutch


 Anyway, not MB but quite satisfying.

Contratulations!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] WVO 300TD and 300D Turbo

2011-07-17 Thread Fmiser
 Rick Hawkins Java wrote:

 About 10k miles ago, the car wouldn't start without starting
 fluid even when the temps for 50F or more.

Wow!  You do like to gamble!!!

WVO, unheated - there seems to be enough data to suggest this
isn't low-risk.

Using ether in an pre-chamber engine is akin to Russian
roulette!

In summary, you seem to be saying Unheated WVO works fine. -
but you also used ether to start the car.  That implies that you
see the WVO risk to be less than or equal to using starting
fluid.

_Way_ to risky for _my_ engines!

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] WVO 300TD and 300D Turbo

2011-07-17 Thread Curt Raymond
You don't have to modify your engine to run on veggie oil, I've done it twice, 
once in my '83 240D just to prove to myself that I could, and once in my '85 
190D as an exhibition at a car show at work. Both times I dumped a couple 
gallons from the grocery store into the tank. With the 240D I could smell the 
oil (think overheated oil in a pan) with the 190D I could not. In both cases I 
thought the engine ran smoother and more quietly for awhile afterward.

The worry comes from the increased viscosity of the veggie oil. This causes 
some potential problems, the lift pump and IP have to work harder to move the 
thicker oil and thus have added wear and the potential for a sticking IP. Then 
the increased viscosity oil doesn't atomize as well in the injectors and you 
get actual droplets of oil in the cylinders. Droplets in the cylinders pound 
holes in pistons ruining the engine.

Not to doubt Rick but I'd love to have data about the compression of his engine 
from before and now. That would confirm or deny engine damage over his time 
period.

WVO raises another issue in that its quality as a feedstock will vary greatly 
as the viscosity will vary. It can also have salt and acids from the food that 
has been cooked in it. At the very least you'd ought to test your engine oil 
and ensure that the WVO isn't effecting it adversely...

-Curt

Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 18:44:33 -0400
From: andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] WVO 300TD and 300D Turbo
Message-ID:
CAC35L=szPOt8j5_95aXqSZtbQjGXz2=5D=BcOAiysKu=wcc...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Rick, did you have to modify your engine at all?

On Sun, Jul 17, 2011 at 2:46 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 I agree that everyone is free to do what he wants with his own car.  To
 me, diesel would need to be significantly more than $4/gal to make the
 work of collecting, filtering, and using WVO worth the time.

 Your comment of running WVO down to 42 degrees is interesting to me,
 years ago I worked at a McDonalds and their fryer oil was solid at
 room temperature.

 Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Stop me before I buy a Biobuddy

2011-07-17 Thread ernest breakfield
here in the SF Bay area, running WVO was so popular for a while that 
there's an abundance of 616s and 617s in the local yards. AAMOF, you 
can't give away a non-running 617 now to some local junkyards unless you 
tow it to their front door and sign it over; that's how many of them 
were killed by people running WVO in them (with and without conversions).


i'm of the opinion that all the heating customizations that Curt 
mentions are absolutely necessary, and that's not necessarily enough. 
$1000 for a conversion is probably toward the minimum, and that might 
not be enough.
even still, i've seen vehicles that had the most proper conversions 
and still had problems, and they all seem to have the same thing in 
common; they were used for short commutes. those short commutes were too 
short to get everything hot enough, and they didn't get the engine oil 
hot enough for long enough to evaporate all the crud that would get into 
the engine oil.


bottom line; if you don't have a good long commute and want to keep 
your car for a while, WVO conversions probably aren't for you. buy BioD 
instead.



cheers!
e


On 17/Jul/11 14:49, Curt Raymond wrote:

I'm not opposed to WVO conversions per-say, I'm opposed to poor WVO 
conversions. Unfortunately it seems like the bulk of them are poor conversions. 
A boat gas tank in the trunk is a poor conversion, its the hallmark of a poor 
conversion as a matter of fact.

A good conversion pre-heats the oil with engine coolant and then final heats 
electrically at the injection lines so the oil is hot hot when it goes into the 
injectors which ensures proper atomization, anything else is junk. Poor 
atomization is the real problem, IP killing is a secondary issue.

Honestly Andrew, you don't drive enough to even consider it. I use ~ 15 gallons 
a week in a car that gets half again better mileage (190D 2.2l) so we can 
safely assume I drive more than twice as much as you. (around 30k a year) With 
WVO you won't be able to run on WVO all that much because you won't be getting 
the oil hot with your pre-heat plus you need a purge cycle before shutdown...

I've been down this same road spec-ing out the idea, if I had a really easy 
source of lots of oil I'd consider WVO but I'd plan on $1000 at LEAST for my 
conversion. Then theres still that sticky paying road tax thing...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 22:50:27 -0400
From: andrew strasfogelastrasfo...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Stop me before I buy a Biobuddy
Message-ID:
 CAC35L=s4znX5nf-B3ntZ5OF=X6tN03-_6sNV7di=07fdbty...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I have seen a 1983 300D converted to a dual system run without any problems
on WVO and regular diesel.  If I did a conversion it would be to my other
car, the 1983 300TD with 325K miles.  But don't hold your breath...

On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 10:32 PM, Walt Zarnochzarnoch...@gmail.com  wrote:


In my neck of the woods, the only way to buy a 617 is to wait for 3
years till one comes into a yard, buy a craigslist crackvertised car
to strip then crush, or have one shipped in and pay big $$$.

I guess that skews my perspective, but the viscosity difference is a
real issue. The difference in HP needed to turn the pump can cause the
injection advance mechanism on the intermediate shaft (behind vac
pump) to not advance at it's set rate as well.

It will run, you can drive, but I cringe whenever I see it done.

It's up to the person doing it to evaluate what the time filtering,
processing, etc is worth to them.

I personally will pay the cash for the pre-made Bio or petro, since my
time is worth more to me than the money going into the tank. You can
always make more money. You can never make more time.

Walt

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Re: [MBZ] Crush cars

2011-07-17 Thread Rick Knoble
Cool. Save two. 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 17, 2011, at 9:51 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 no but I have some 82 and 83's
 
 On 7/17/2011 8:44 AM, Rick Knoble wrote:
 Got any '85 300d's ?
 
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[MBZ] mods

2011-07-17 Thread Rick Hawkins Java

andrew

there are absolutely no mods on any of our three wvo vehicles

aside from cleaning the tank

i drained and somewhat cleaned the tank on daughter's 300d turbo and  
ran a polishing filtration by pumping wvo out of the tank and  
filtering it thru a whole house water filter and back into the tank  
for a couple of hours and did the same with the isuzu npr (the  
polishing)


I've only driven the NPR about 1000 miles on grease
thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins

www.javaphoto.com
www.javacycles.com
LETTERPRESSES FOR SALE
www.ricktheprinter.com


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[MBZ] Top Gear

2011-07-17 Thread Mitch Haley

Did anybody catch last week's Top Gear?
Jeremy bought a 9 year old CL600 for 7000 quid, with 120k on the odo.
Richard bought a much older 850i for the same money, and they're going to run 
them a while and see if anything expensive goes wrong. I feel sorry for Hammond.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] WVO 300TD and 300D Turbo

2011-07-17 Thread Max Dillon
Hasn't softened mine. Show me an objective study demonstrating that WVO doesn't 
increase wear vs #2 diesel, then you might interest me. Until then, I'm 
convinced that WVO is the fuel of choice for those who don't care about their 
engine.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Rick Hawkins Java macj...@aol.com wrote:

Folks

It's interesting to listen to the WVO and biodiesel discussions. This 
would have been heresy a few years ago, but 4 buck diesel has softened 
you people's hearts!

My PERSONAL EXPERIENCE is that i've been running a 300TD (1982) on WVO 
for about the last 5 years. The car is unmodified. In my experience, 
the initial problem was all the petro diesel crud in the tank. The WVO 
cleans that out. Removing and cleaning tanks is probably the best way 
to start.

On a 300TD you can drain the tank and remove and clean the strainer 
easily at any time that you have low (a few gallons) of fuel in the 
tank. I do that probably every 6 months on the 300TD. On a 300D it's a 
little harder since the fuel supply line is in the center of the 
strainer, but it's still not too bad, just messier.

At any rate, i run 100% WVO down to temps of about 42 F (which is a 
lot of the time down here in north Georgia). If it's colder, i blend 
with petro diesel. A 50/50 mix will start and run at temps of say, 
down to about 35F and colder than that i sometimes add 1 gal RUG (reg 
unl gas) to a full tank.

I've not been stranded.

In the colder months, it's not uncommon for me to have to change the 
clear prefilter on the fuel line, but i generally don't change the 
spin on fuel filter any more often than every year or year and a half.

I've driven the 300TD this way for probably 85,000 miles. About 10k 
miles ago, the car wouldn't start without starting fluid even when the 
temps for 50F or more. All the glow plugs, etc were good. I finally 
rebuilt the injectors with new monark nozzles at a cost of only about 
$100 and some time.

As to the cost benefit ratio, the 300D turbo car (an extremely clean, 
nice running 1984 that i bought for our 17 year old daughter) only 
cost $1650. Remember this is a rust free georgia car!! In 8 months 
she's probably driven it 5000 miles. at 4 gals per 100 miles that's 
200 gals of diesel at $4x200=$800 if my math is right. The scrap value 
of the car is $450 more or less, now, so this is pretty cheap driving!!

It's a problem getting enough WVO these days. We only have a couple of 
restaurants that supply us, but i'm not paying for it. I'm about to 
advertise with Craig that i'm willing to buy nice clean WVO for 
something like 50 cents or more per gal.

We filter by pouring the oil thru 55 gallon barrel top filters that 
are maybe 10 or 20 micron. Then we settle for a week or two and drain 
off settled out water, fat, etc and then we pump it through a 5 
micron bag filter inside a filter housing. It's pretty clean, but 
could always be cleaner.

To add to the mid, i just bought a lovely 1992 isuzu NPR truck. This 
is a 14 foot box, cab over truck such as most furniture stores have. 
It has a 4 cylinder indirect injection engine with a Kiki (licensed by 
Bosch) pump. It seems Isuzu made and direct injection engine up till 
about 91 then changed the head and added prechambers making it 
indirect until about 98 and then went back to direct injection in 99, 
i think. Their newer trucks are all direct and the newest stuff is 
quite electronically controlled.

I was lucky to get this clean truck for $2500  it's probably worth 
$5000 now since we fixed the AC and added 4 new tires (CL $200 for a 
like new set of 4 ...they are same 16 inch tires as F250 or something, 
so common).

The next project is to build a 2 tank heated WVO system which i'll do 
as soon as i find a nice tank of say 20 gals for petro diesel.

Feel free to email me directly or call me 1 pm to midnite or later 706 
540-3285 if you want to chat about this.

As for the time investment, i laugh every time i load eight 5 gal 
jugs in my car for a longish trip, realizing that they would cost 
twenty bucks
EACH if they were stinky petro diesel!!

My 2 cents worth  your results may vary and if you choose to do 
what i do, you do it at your own risk!

thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins

www.javaphoto.com
www.javacycles.com
LETTERPRESSES FOR SALE
www.ricktheprinter.com


_

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Re: [MBZ] WVO 300TD and 300D Turbo

2011-07-17 Thread Dave Walton
That is the prudent path. Plus it leaves more free WVO for the rest of us :-)

The *last* thing I want is more competition for the primo oil. 

-Dave Walton

On Jul 17, 2011, at 8:18 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Hasn't softened mine. Show me an objective study demonstrating that WVO 
 doesn't increase wear vs #2 diesel, then you might interest me. Until then, 
 I'm convinced that WVO is the fuel of choice for those who don't care about 
 their engine.
 
 Max
 -- 
 Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
 
 Rick Hawkins Java macj...@aol.com wrote:
 
 Folks
 
 It's interesting to listen to the WVO and biodiesel discussions. This 
 would have been heresy a few years ago, but 4 buck diesel has softened 
 you people's hearts!
 
 My PERSONAL EXPERIENCE is that i've been running a 300TD (1982) on WVO 
 for about the last 5 years. The car is unmodified. In my experience, 
 the initial problem was all the petro diesel crud in the tank. The WVO 
 cleans that out. Removing and cleaning tanks is probably the best way 
 to start.
 
 On a 300TD you can drain the tank and remove and clean the strainer 
 easily at any time that you have low (a few gallons) of fuel in the 
 tank. I do that probably every 6 months on the 300TD. On a 300D it's a 
 little harder since the fuel supply line is in the center of the 
 strainer, but it's still not too bad, just messier.
 
 At any rate, i run 100% WVO down to temps of about 42 F (which is a 
 lot of the time down here in north Georgia). If it's colder, i blend 
 with petro diesel. A 50/50 mix will start and run at temps of say, 
 down to about 35F and colder than that i sometimes add 1 gal RUG (reg 
 unl gas) to a full tank.
 
 I've not been stranded.
 
 In the colder months, it's not uncommon for me to have to change the 
 clear prefilter on the fuel line, but i generally don't change the 
 spin on fuel filter any more often than every year or year and a half.
 
 I've driven the 300TD this way for probably 85,000 miles. About 10k 
 miles ago, the car wouldn't start without starting fluid even when the 
 temps for 50F or more. All the glow plugs, etc were good. I finally 
 rebuilt the injectors with new monark nozzles at a cost of only about 
 $100 and some time.
 
 As to the cost benefit ratio, the 300D turbo car (an extremely clean, 
 nice running 1984 that i bought for our 17 year old daughter) only 
 cost $1650. Remember this is a rust free georgia car!! In 8 months 
 she's probably driven it 5000 miles. at 4 gals per 100 miles that's 
 200 gals of diesel at $4x200=$800 if my math is right. The scrap value 
 of the car is $450 more or less, now, so this is pretty cheap driving!!
 
 It's a problem getting enough WVO these days. We only have a couple of 
 restaurants that supply us, but i'm not paying for it. I'm about to 
 advertise with Craig that i'm willing to buy nice clean WVO for 
 something like 50 cents or more per gal.
 
 We filter by pouring the oil thru 55 gallon barrel top filters that 
 are maybe 10 or 20 micron. Then we settle for a week or two and drain 
 off settled out water, fat, etc and then we pump it through a 5 
 micron bag filter inside a filter housing. It's pretty clean, but 
 could always be cleaner.
 
 To add to the mid, i just bought a lovely 1992 isuzu NPR truck. This 
 is a 14 foot box, cab over truck such as most furniture stores have. 
 It has a 4 cylinder indirect injection engine with a Kiki (licensed by 
 Bosch) pump. It seems Isuzu made and direct injection engine up till 
 about 91 then changed the head and added prechambers making it 
 indirect until about 98 and then went back to direct injection in 99, 
 i think. Their newer trucks are all direct and the newest stuff is 
 quite electronically controlled.
 
 I was lucky to get this clean truck for $2500  it's probably worth 
 $5000 now since we fixed the AC and added 4 new tires (CL $200 for a 
 like new set of 4 ...they are same 16 inch tires as F250 or something, 
 so common).
 
 The next project is to build a 2 tank heated WVO system which i'll do 
 as soon as i find a nice tank of say 20 gals for petro diesel.
 
 Feel free to email me directly or call me 1 pm to midnite or later 706 
 540-3285 if you want to chat about this.
 
 As for the time investment, i laugh every time i load eight 5 gal 
 jugs in my car for a longish trip, realizing that they would cost 
 twenty bucks
 EACH if they were stinky petro diesel!!
 
 My 2 cents worth  your results may vary and if you choose to do 
 what i do, you do it at your own risk!
 
 thanks,
 
 xx rick
 Rick Hawkins
 
 www.javaphoto.com
 www.javacycles.com
 LETTERPRESSES FOR SALE
 www.ricktheprinter.com
 
 
 _
 
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 

Re: [MBZ] Top Gear

2011-07-17 Thread Mitch Haley

Darn. Should have watched today's episode before saying that.
Jeremy's CL already had a failed ignition coil, which apparently costs £878, or 
$1400. Hammond has had an entire week of trouble free commuting in the 850i.


Mitch.

Mitch Haley wrote:

Did anybody catch last week's Top Gear?
Jeremy bought a 9 year old CL600 for 7000 quid, with 120k on the odo.
Richard bought a much older 850i for the same money, and they're going 
to run them a while and see if anything expensive goes wrong. I feel 
sorry for Hammond.


Mitch.



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Re: [MBZ] Top Gear

2011-07-17 Thread Allan Streib
Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net writes:

 Darn. Should have watched today's episode before saying that.
 Jeremy's CL already had a failed ignition coil, which apparently costs
 £878, or $1400.

Someone needs to tell him about Rusty.

-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] New motor mounts bad?

2011-07-17 Thread Brian Toscano
Its true that dealer parts fail.  I once had a rebuilt power steering pump
leak more as soon as I put it on than the old one, but overall I've liked
dealer parts better, especially rubber.  More likely to get a newer revision
part that's 100% what Mercedes wanted it to be.

Brian

On Sun, Jul 17, 2011 at 11:34 AM, Greg Fiorentino gf...@dslnorthwest.netwrote:

 The tranny mount was my guess as well.  That drove me nuts on my 79 300TD
 after the engine mounts were done.

 Greg

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
 Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 7:51 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] New motor mounts bad?

 They are the same or very similar to the mounts on your 124.  I am
 going to have to crawl up under there and look at them I suppose.
 I did discover I did not replace the tranny mount when I replaced
 the motor mounts so maybe that is it.

 On 7/17/2011 8:14 AM, LarryT wrote:
  Many have talked about the effects on Rubber and Age - but if
  your MMs are the same as on my 91 300D  they are not the typical
  rubber mount but more of a hydraulic damper with a fluid
  container inside the metal shell that the engine rides on.
 
  Any signs of leakage?
 
  LarryT
  91 300D
 
 
 
  -Original Message- From: Kaleb C. Striplin
  Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 10:47 PM
  To: mercedes Mailing List
  Subject: [MBZ] New motor mounts bad?
 
  When I did all the engine work to my 92 300SD I replaced the motor
  mounts.  They never did seem exactly smooth but every time I drive
  the thing its worse and worse.  Today I drove it after finding
  both sets of keys that have been lost for a couple of months (one
  was in the drawer where they were supposed to be, the other was
  actually laying in the back seat of the car) and the thing just
  vibrates like crazy at idle like the mounts are completely
  colapsed.  WTF?  I have about 350 miles on these mounts, anybody
  ever seen bad mounts straight out of the box?  Should I make Rusty
  send me new ones?
 

 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
  92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
 http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Top Gear

2011-07-17 Thread Mitch Haley

Allan Streib wrote:

Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net writes:


Darn. Should have watched today's episode before saying that.
Jeremy's CL already had a failed ignition coil, which apparently costs
£878, or $1400.


Someone needs to tell him about Rusty.


What's worse was Jeremy is in UK, and with VAT it was more like £1200, or $1920.

From Rusty's site it appears the coils come in right and left cassettes, so 
apparently Jeremy paid 200 quid each for a sixpack of coils.


When I select a right or left coil set, Rusty's web engine has a buffer overrun 
from the large price, and then kicks me back to the 'engine electrical' page.


I tried another supplier, and their cheap coil packs, from Standard Motor 
Products and Airtex, ranged from $1030 to $1229, plus shipping. Wow, I wouldn't 
want a V12.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Top Gear

2011-07-17 Thread Allan Streib
Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net writes:

 Allan Streib wrote:
 Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net writes:

 Darn. Should have watched today's episode before saying that.
 Jeremy's CL already had a failed ignition coil, which apparently costs
 £878, or $1400.

 Someone needs to tell him about Rusty.

 What's worse was Jeremy is in UK, and with VAT it was more like £1200,
 or $1920.

Jeremy also isn't much of a wrench-turner.  He's a car enthusiast for
sure, but I don't think he's into DIY repair.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Top Gear

2011-07-17 Thread Mitch Haley

Allan Streib wrote:


Jeremy also isn't much of a wrench-turner.  He's a car enthusiast for
sure, but I don't think he's into DIY repair.



Which is why, when James put up a picture of Richard's 850 in the staff parking 
lot and asked where Jeremy's car was, Jeremy said 'someplace warm and dry'. He 
obviously called a lorry to haul it off to the shop.


Mitch.

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