here in the SF Bay area, running WVO was so popular for a while that
there's an abundance of 616s and 617s in the local yards. AAMOF, you
can't give away a non-running 617 now to some local junkyards unless you
tow it to their front door and sign it over; that's how many of them
were killed by people running WVO in them (with and without conversions).
i'm of the opinion that all the heating customizations that Curt
mentions are absolutely necessary, and that's not necessarily enough.
$1000 for a conversion is probably toward the minimum, and that might
not be enough.
even still, i've seen vehicles that had the most proper conversions
and still had problems, and they all seem to have the same thing in
common; they were used for short commutes. those short commutes were too
short to get everything hot enough, and they didn't get the engine oil
hot enough for long enough to evaporate all the crud that would get into
the engine oil.
bottom line; if you don't have a good long commute and want to keep
your car for a while, WVO conversions probably aren't for you. buy BioD
instead.
cheers!
e
On 17/Jul/11 14:49, Curt Raymond wrote:
I'm not opposed to WVO conversions per-say, I'm opposed to poor WVO
conversions. Unfortunately it seems like the bulk of them are poor conversions.
A boat gas tank in the trunk is a poor conversion, its the hallmark of a poor
conversion as a matter of fact.
A good conversion pre-heats the oil with engine coolant and then final heats
electrically at the injection lines so the oil is hot hot when it goes into the
injectors which ensures proper atomization, anything else is junk. Poor
atomization is the real problem, IP killing is a secondary issue.
Honestly Andrew, you don't drive enough to even consider it. I use ~ 15 gallons
a week in a car that gets half again better mileage (190D 2.2l) so we can
safely assume I drive more than twice as much as you. (around 30k a year) With
WVO you won't be able to run on WVO all that much because you won't be getting
the oil hot with your pre-heat plus you need a purge cycle before shutdown...
I've been down this same road spec-ing out the idea, if I had a really easy
source of lots of oil I'd consider WVO but I'd plan on $1000 at LEAST for my
conversion. Then theres still that sticky paying road tax thing...
-Curt
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 22:50:27 -0400
From: andrew strasfogel<astrasfo...@gmail.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List<mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Stop me before I buy a Biobuddy
Message-ID:
<CAC35L=s4znX5nf-B3ntZ5OF=X6tN03-_6sNV7di=07fdbty...@mail.gmail.com>
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I have seen a 1983 300D converted to a dual system run without any problems
on WVO and regular diesel. If I did a conversion it would be to my other
car, the 1983 300TD with 325K miles. But don't hold your breath...
On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 10:32 PM, Walt Zarnoch<zarnoch...@gmail.com> wrote:
In my neck of the woods, the only way to buy a 617 is to wait for 3
years till one comes into a yard, buy a craigslist crackvertised car
to strip then crush, or have one shipped in and pay big $$$.
I guess that skews my perspective, but the viscosity difference is a
real issue. The difference in HP needed to turn the pump can cause the
injection advance mechanism on the intermediate shaft (behind vac
pump) to not advance at it's set rate as well.
It will run, you can drive, but I cringe whenever I see it done.
It's up to the person doing it to evaluate what the time filtering,
processing, etc is worth to them.
I personally will pay the cash for the pre-made Bio or petro, since my
time is worth more to me than the money going into the tank. You can
always make more money. You can never make more time.
Walt
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