Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: Unexplained whining noise in my W123 300TD

2011-08-25 Thread Dieselhead
Glad to hear you have the car healed and all is well.  It is nice to 
have a ~25 year old car that is fun to drive, looks good and runs 
well.  Cars always run better with a lighter load.  Send me email 
offlist, and I will give you the address to send any remaining cash 
in  your wallet, bank accounts, home equity lines of credit, 
retirement accounts, termaters, etc, so the car can go even faster!





So I ordered a CA version 1985 used turbocharger assembly from SoCal
Mercedes and my mechanic installed it yesterday.  Car drives great - more
power, smoother, no whining, I'm ecstatic as well as lighter in the wallet.



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Re: [MBZ] Radio code?

2011-08-25 Thread Dieselhead

Q

Call Mr. Q with the VIN  Q has a gadget to take care of all your needs.



Now that I've replaced the battery in our '95 E320, I need to enter the
code into the radio to get it to play again.

Where does one get the code?

Thanks,


Craig

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[MBZ] Radio code?

2011-08-25 Thread Craig
Now that I've replaced the battery in our '95 E320, I need to enter the
code into the radio to get it to play again.

Where does one get the code?

Thanks,


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Le Mans

2011-08-25 Thread RELNGSON
> ...Hendrik
> who is off the the video shop to rent LeMans..
> 
Might's well pick up Bullitt while you are at it.

RLE
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Fmiser
> > On Aug 25, 2011, at 3:06 PM, "Allan Streib" wrote:
> > 
> > ... The oil filter on our Focus is on the
> > back of the transverse-mounted engine, only accessible from
> > underneath the car with an arm hooked around the passenger
> > side front axle.

> Dan Penoff wrote:
>
> When the stealership does oil and filter changes here for
> under $20, it's not worth the time and trouble to change the
> oil myself...

And there we disagree.   

I think I would still do my own oil change even if the shop did
it for free.  I like to keep tabs on my car and an oil change
forces me to get under it and when I'm there I look around at
other stuff.

--   Philip

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[MBZ] re burning drain oil

2011-08-25 Thread Douglas Jones
OK. It was just a thought. I've always recycled it in the past, so that's what 
I'll continue to do. Thanks for setting me straight.

Doug Jones
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: Unexplained whining noise in my W123 300TD

2011-08-25 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 8:18 PM, andrew strasfogel
 wrote:
> So I ordered a CA version 1985 used turbocharger assembly from SoCal
> Mercedes and my mechanic installed it yesterday.  Car drives great - more
> power, smoother, no whining, I'm ecstatic as well as lighter in the wallet.

And the question on the nation's lips is... did you get rid of the
trap oxidizer???

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: Unexplained whining noise in my W123 300TD

2011-08-25 Thread andrew strasfogel
So I ordered a CA version 1985 used turbocharger assembly from SoCal
Mercedes and my mechanic installed it yesterday.  Car drives great - more
power, smoother, no whining, I'm ecstatic as well as lighter in the wallet.

On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 3:56 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

> Stall speed test.  When the engine and transmission are at operating
> temperature
> (15 or more minutes of driving around), come to a full stop, pointed in a
> safe
> direction.  With the transmission in drive, stand firmly on the brake with
> left
> foot and floor the accelerator with right foot.  Engine speed will climb,
> level
> out for a bit, then climb again as the turbocharger spools up (if your ALDA
> is
> set correctly).  It should probably level out at around 1800 RPM, I forget
> the
> spec, it is published but I'll have to dig a bit to find it.
>
> The idea is to determine if your torque converter is working or not.  If
> you
> only get to say 1200 RPM, your torque converter has problems.
>
>  Very respectfully,
> /s/
> Max Dillon
> '87 300TD 334k miles (Off with the head!)
> '95 E300 292k miles (daily driving duties)
> '73 Balboa 20 (High & dry until the head is back on)
> Charleston SC
>
>
>
>
> 
> From: andrew strasfogel 
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Sent: Mon, August 15, 2011 12:42:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: Unexplained whining noise in my W123 300TD
>
> What test?
>
> On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 9:46 AM, Jim Cathey  wrote:
>
> > that is your 'stall speed'. Should be higher with a 1985 torque converter
> >> than with an older one IIRC.
> >>
> >
> > And if notably low it's a TC problem.  (Or, as in my particular
> > case, the splines on the nose of the transmission were sheared off.)
> > The test is so easy that you should just do it.  Takes seconds
> > the next time you drive.
> >
> > -- Jim
> >
> >
> >
> > __**_
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> >http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
> >
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> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com>
> >>
> >
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Re: [MBZ] A Word of Warning

2011-08-25 Thread andrew strasfogel
The latest models say category 2 over NC, then 1 the rest of the way
 straight over  NYC and then up north into VT and eventually - OMG-
 Montreal!


On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 10:16 PM, Rich Thomas <
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:

> It is going to go over the Outer Banks or perhaps a bit inland, then skip
> up the coast to Long Island or so for real landfall.  In this one Florida
> was spared as was my neck of the woods -- it is quite a bit offshore.  It is
> likely to be a Category 4 storm by tomorrow or Sat and will start to
> dissipate rapidly once over land, but it will come ashore quite strong still
> even after going over the cooler water.
>
> --R
>
>
> On 8/25/11 8:01 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:
>
>> The National Weather Services suggests Irene will be cat 3 making landfall
>> in Florida
>>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT: printers

2011-08-25 Thread Craig
On Thu, 25 Aug 2011 11:20:30 -0400 Dan Penoff  wrote:

> 2.) Two words: Hewlett Packard.  You might want to check CL for a good
> used HP unit. Properly cared for, their stuff is frickin' bulletproof.
> 
> The only reason I didn't buy an HP myself was that the choices they had
> in my price range at the time were consumer grade machines that would
> not last a long time.

I have an HP 5500 color laserjet at work. The set of print cartridges for
it run about $1k.


> If I was going to buy a monochrome laserjet it would be a used 4000
> series HP.  Those machine would survive a nuclear blast, just about.

And it won't spew toner particles into the air like other printers --
even some HP. The 5500 is in the hallway outside of my office for that
very reason.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] A Word of Warning

2011-08-25 Thread Rich Thomas
It is going to go over the Outer Banks or perhaps a bit inland, then 
skip up the coast to Long Island or so for real landfall.  In this one 
Florida was spared as was my neck of the woods -- it is quite a bit 
offshore.  It is likely to be a Category 4 storm by tomorrow or Sat and 
will start to dissipate rapidly once over land, but it will come ashore 
quite strong still even after going over the cooler water.


--R

On 8/25/11 8:01 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

The National Weather Services suggests Irene will be cat 3 making landfall in 
Florida


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[MBZ] OT: RTR Tape Decks

2011-08-25 Thread LWB250
Got a Teac 3300SX reel to reel deck from a buddy tonight, gratis.  Still works, 
was rack mounted at one time, has no wood end pieces.  Need a power cord.  
Minor issues.

I went onto eBay to look for some reels and tape.  OMG!!!

The prices people want for this stuff is unreal (no pun intended.)

Since there are plenty of folks on the lists that are into vintage stuff, I'm 
wondering if anyone knows of a good source for this sort of thing?

I am looking for some 10" metal reels, ideally a set of hubs for the reels if 
their not the kind with small holes, and some blank tape.

Not sure exactly what I'm going to do with this thing, but I figure I can 
expend a little $$ just for sh*ts and giggles.


Dan
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Re: [MBZ] McQueen 911Shi.............

2011-08-25 Thread Hendrik & Fay
Starring role? Are you kidding, produced, wrote the screenplay, 
directed, starred, wrote the music and most importantly, made sure the 
cars where polished prior to every shot.
I have heard a rumour that Roger is working on a sequel, to be called 
LeMons, about the dark days of MB's history from the mid 90's on.


Hendrik
who is off the the video shop to rent LeMans

Dieselhead wrote:

you had the starring role, right?



 > ...At that price I am sure it will be a garage porch...


Very likely. I wonder if you or dieselkopf have even seen the film 
LeMans


RLE


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Re: [MBZ] burning drain oil

2011-08-25 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
If you want to ruin your engine go ahead. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 25, 2011, at 11:17 AM, Douglas Jones  wrote:

> I've got several diesels (240 300sd 300d) and change the oil myself. As a 
> result I have several gals of drain oil sitting around at any one time. Could 
> I burn that in my car a gal at a time with a full tank of diesel?
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Re: [MBZ] A Word of Warning

2011-08-25 Thread Max Dillon
They are selling advertising, not weather forecasts. I doubt it could even be a 
category 1 by the time it gets to Maine, but you may get a LOT of rain and 
flooding.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Curt Raymond  wrote:

Its interesting to be on the west coast for this. My mother is expecting a 
category 4 hurricane in Maine. The National Weather Services suggests Irene 
will be cat 3 making landfall in Florida, it seems unlikely to intensify by the 
time it gets to Maine but my parents watch television and the local weather 
guys are losing their minds over this...

The weather folks here seem to agree with the NWS.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 19:30:32 -0400
From: Rich Thomas 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] A Word of Warning
Message-ID: <4e56db18.6080...@constructivity.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Agreed. Looks like the Lowcountry is spared this time, but our
neighbors to the north and the Yankees are going to whacked. I do not
wish that on anyone.

Make good choices, be smart, and be safe y'all.

--R


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Re: [MBZ] OT: printers

2011-08-25 Thread Mountain Man
Luther wrote:
> www.partsnow.com has a good supply of printer parts and has been around for
> many years, 20+ or so that I remember my Dad dealing with them.

HP IIIp toner - requires log-in for cost.
If someone has log-in - let me know price.
Thanks.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] A Word of Warning

2011-08-25 Thread Curt Raymond
Its interesting to be on the west coast for this. My mother is expecting a 
category 4 hurricane in Maine. The National Weather Services suggests Irene 
will be cat 3 making landfall in Florida, it seems unlikely to intensify by the 
time it gets to Maine but my parents watch television and the local weather 
guys are losing their minds over this...

The weather folks here seem to agree with the NWS.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 19:30:32 -0400
From: Rich Thomas 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] A Word of Warning
Message-ID: <4e56db18.6080...@constructivity.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Agreed.  Looks like the Lowcountry is spared this time, but our
neighbors to the north and the Yankees are going to whacked.  I do not
wish that on anyone.

Make good choices, be smart, and be safe y'all.

--R


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Re: [MBZ] A Word of Warning

2011-08-25 Thread Dieselhead
Amen, Brother!  I have not BTDT, but I have talked to people in the 
Biloxi area who survived Katrina.  A few additional tidbits I 
learned.  When FEMA comes in 2-3 days later, they confiscate any 
remaining fuel at gas stations for their use.  Unless you have a 
stockpile of fuel your generator will not generate.  Food, you should 
probably have more than 3 days supply, because without 
fuel/transportation, you can't get out to get more food.  In areas 
further out from population centers, it can be well over 5 days 
before any inkling of additional food becomes available.  One family, 
maybe 10 miles inland only got food into their area after a week or 
so because the wife's brother was in the MO National Guard, and was 
able to get special permission to take food and water to a field near 
the sister's house.  It was several more days before any other food 
was available.


Don't mess with Mother nature!  We hope this one won't reach the 
levels of Katrina, but it is possible.  I have lived through enough 
"500 year" floods to be 2000 or 2500 years old.  The "impossible" 
happens when the forces are natural.





To all East Coast Lister's.

With Hurricane Irene bearing down on the East Coast.
Here is some advice from someone that's BTDT (too many times to count).
If You live in a area that is prone to Flooding. GET THE H?LL out of Dodge.
If You stay Make sure you have a 3 day supply of Canned Food and a 
way to heat it.

Same for Drinking Water.
Working Flashlights and Batteries.
If you have a Portable Generator lay in at least 3 days worth of gas 
for it. Won't do you

a hill of beans if you run out of gas.;-)
If the Local Authorities Say Evacuate then Do so. Go to Higher Ground Inland.

STAY SAFE

Russ W.
South Louisiana




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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Curt Raymond
Like I said, I drive more every month than you do all year...

One of the big reasons I use M1 oil is so I can change at 10,000-12,000 miles 
so I don't have to do an oil change every other month.

55 miles each way
550 miles a week
~2200 miles a month
~26,000 miles a year just commuting to work. This is one reason I really like 
having a 190D 2.2l, my '84 is averaging 37mpg, the '85 5spd ('84 is auto) did 
38mpg.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 17:29:34 -0500
From: Randy Bennell 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] $1000 car
Message-ID: <4e56ccce.2010...@bennell.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

On 25/08/2011 4:38 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:
> I'm thinking Randy doesn't drive much ;)
>
> Last time I had a clutch done it was about $1000, that was my '83 240D which 
> actually needed a center carrier bearing (noisy) but got a replacement 
> transmission. Figured to do the clutch while the trans was out.
>
> -Curt
>
>
I don't drive much on a daily basis.
My office is almost in sight of my home so my commute is almost nothing.
During May through October, I make regular trips to the lake and that is
a 175 mile trip each way. I do that a dozen times a year.
Since the Cdn $ has been almost par with the US $ we have been making
regular trips to ND for shopping as you folks tend to have a bigger
selection and more competitive prices on many things. We don't have
Menards or Lowes here and Home Depot robs us. Grand Forks ND is 140
miles due South and we have been doing that about once each month. We
went to Fargo last week for a couple of days and that is about 210 miles
due south.
Apart from that, a bit of driving around town but not a whole lot.
Winnipeg is close to 700,000 people now and we don't have freeways but
it still only takes a half hour to get down town. I think it would only
be a bit over 7 miles. I go down there about once each week. I make
another trip to a business club meeting on Tuesdays at lunch and that is
probably 15 miles or so. Not far.

Don't know if this will work but attached is my commute!
http://maps.google.com/maps?q=winnipeg+map&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=0x52ea73fbf91a2b11:0x2b2a1afac6b9ca64,Winnipeg,+MB,+Canada&ei=4spWTsKuJ6SosQLp5PC0DA&sa=X&oi=geocode_result&ct=image&resnum=1&ved=0CCAQ8gEwAA

Randy


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Re: [MBZ] burning drain oil

2011-08-25 Thread Max Dillon
I thought Marshall only recommended new oil, dino variety, not used oil.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Fmiser  wrote:

> Douglas Jones wrote:

> I've got several diesels (240 300sd 300d) and change the oil
> myself. As a result I have several gals of drain oil sitting
> around at any one time. Could I burn that in my car a gal at a
> time with a full tank of diesel?

You _could_.

But Marshall said one quart per year might be beneficial, but
more that that would likely lead to coking injectors,
prechambers, etc.

So personally, I wouldn't.

-- Philip 

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Re: [MBZ] burning drain oil

2011-08-25 Thread Max Dillon
Much better for our lungs if you turn it in for recycling. It is not meant as 
fuel, it's full of soot, will wear your pump and injectors. Basically you're 
taking the waste from your engine's combustion process and making the engine 
eat all that crap again. I would never recommend it.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Douglas Jones  wrote:

I've got several diesels (240 300sd 300d) and change the oil myself. As a 
result I have several gals of drain oil sitting around at any one time. Could I 
burn that in my car a gal at a time with a full tank of diesel?
_

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Re: [MBZ] A Word of Warning

2011-08-25 Thread Rich Thomas
Agreed.  Looks like the Lowcountry is spared this time, but our 
neighbors to the north and the Yankees are going to whacked.  I do not 
wish that on anyone.


Make good choices, be smart, and be safe y'all.

--R

On 8/25/11 7:19 PM, Russ Williams wrote:

To all East Coast Lister's.

With Hurricane Irene bearing down on the East Coast.
Here is some advice from someone that's BTDT (too many times to count).
If You live in a area that is prone to Flooding. GET THE H?LL out of 
Dodge.
If You stay Make sure you have a 3 day supply of Canned Food and a way 
to heat it.

Same for Drinking Water.
Working Flashlights and Batteries.
If you have a Portable Generator lay in at least 3 days worth of gas 
for it. Won't do you

a hill of beans if you run out of gas.;-)
If the Local Authorities Say Evacuate then Do so. Go to Higher Ground 
Inland.


STAY SAFE

Russ W.
South Louisiana




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Re: [MBZ] Power Steering Fluid

2011-08-25 Thread Max Dillon
Yes, and I'm pretty confident that your PSF, if not too old, would work fine.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Allan Streib  wrote:

On Thu, 25 Aug 2011 09:28 -0400, "Max Dillon"  wrote:

> Should work fine in the older MB cars. Can also use to lube the throttle 
> linkage.

Older cars use ATF for power steering, no?

--
1983 300D
1979 300SD

_

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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Rich Thomas

Oh say now, didja pick up a wood chipper donchaknow?

--R

On 8/25/11 6:29 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
We went to Fargo last week for a couple of days and that is about 210 
miles due south. 


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[MBZ] A Word of Warning

2011-08-25 Thread Russ Williams

To all East Coast Lister's.

With Hurricane Irene bearing down on the East Coast.
Here is some advice from someone that's BTDT (too many times to count).
If You live in a area that is prone to Flooding. GET THE H?LL out of Dodge.
If You stay Make sure you have a 3 day supply of Canned Food and a way 
to heat it.

Same for Drinking Water.
Working Flashlights and Batteries.
If you have a Portable Generator lay in at least 3 days worth of gas for 
it. Won't do you

a hill of beans if you run out of gas.;-)
If the Local Authorities Say Evacuate then Do so. Go to Higher Ground 
Inland.


STAY SAFE

Russ W.
South Louisiana




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Re: [MBZ] burning drain oil

2011-08-25 Thread G Mann
I'm using a 50/50 mix of waste engine oil and diesel in one of my ranch
trucks, however, before using the waste engine oil you need to centrifuge
it.  Filters don't do the trick, and they do NOT remove water, which it will
have.  I'm using a 6G centrifuge and a triple pass through that. When it
comes out I have loads of "stuff" which came out under 6 x gravity, and
pretty clean oil, though still discolored.

The 50/50 mix starts well, pulls power well, and to date after some 40,000
miles no injector or IP problems.. Keep in mind that I live on the desert,
summer temps are over 110 and winter here is a dead cold 40 degrees F.  Your
results may vary with colder temps etc.

No data from personal experience running this mix in 300D/SD, but I see no
reason why it couldn't work well.  $4 a gallon becomes $2 a gallon when I
pick up the waste oil for free, which I do.

On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 2:42 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> I like using a quart or two a year, lubes up the moving bits inside the IP,
> makes the car noticeably quieter for awhile.
>
> When it comes to diesel oil out of your cars remember its going to have
> soot in it and you'd want to get that out first. Needs a very good filter.
>
> -Curt
>
> Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 14:21:50 -0500
> From: Fmiser 
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] burning drain oil
> Message-ID: <20110825142150.1acf6806.fmi...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
> > Douglas Jones wrote:
>
> > I've got several diesels (240 300sd 300d) and change the oil
> > myself. As a result I have several gals of drain oil sitting
> > around at any one time. Could I burn that in my car a gal at a
> > time with a full tank of diesel?
>
> You _could_.
>
> But Marshall said one quart per year might be beneficial, but
> more that that would likely lead to coking injectors,
> prechambers, etc.
>
> So personally, I wouldn't.
>
> --Philip
>
> ___
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>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Randy Bennell

http://g.co/maps/bm8e

trying again

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Randy Bennell

On 25/08/2011 4:38 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

I'm thinking Randy doesn't drive much ;)

Last time I had a clutch done it was about $1000, that was my '83 240D which 
actually needed a center carrier bearing (noisy) but got a replacement 
transmission. Figured to do the clutch while the trans was out.

-Curt



I don't drive much on a daily basis.
My office is almost in sight of my home so my commute is almost nothing.
During May through October, I make regular trips to the lake and that is 
a 175 mile trip each way. I do that a dozen times a year.
Since the Cdn $ has been almost par with the US $ we have been making 
regular trips to ND for shopping as you folks tend to have a bigger 
selection and more competitive prices on many things. We don't have 
Menards or Lowes here and Home Depot robs us. Grand Forks ND is 140 
miles due South and we have been doing that about once each month. We 
went to Fargo last week for a couple of days and that is about 210 miles 
due south.

Apart from that, a bit of driving around town but not a whole lot.
Winnipeg is close to 700,000 people now and we don't have freeways but 
it still only takes a half hour to get down town. I think it would only 
be a bit over 7 miles. I go down there about once each week. I make 
another trip to a business club meeting on Tuesdays at lunch and that is 
probably 15 miles or so. Not far.


Don't know if this will work but attached is my commute!
http://maps.google.com/maps?q=winnipeg+map&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=0x52ea73fbf91a2b11:0x2b2a1afac6b9ca64,Winnipeg,+MB,+Canada&ei=4spWTsKuJ6SosQLp5PC0DA&sa=X&oi=geocode_result&ct=image&resnum=1&ved=0CCAQ8gEwAA

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Ive got the mog bug

2011-08-25 Thread Dieselhead
A Mog is essentialy a "high speed" multi-use, more comfortable 
utility tractor.  Bear in mind that in Europe, many farmers live in 
town and drive the tractor as we might use a car or pickup.


Compared to a pickup, it is slow, uncomfortable, noisy, but still multi-use





Wife says if I sell the 85 I can get a truck. Very practical of her I
have decided. I believe a unimog will fit the bill and perhaps fill a
hole in my heart that my motorcycling days have left. Apparently you can
get a 404 s for a reasonable sum these days. Any mog owners on the list?


I would not want the Mog as a daily driver.  Too rude and crude.
And slow.  And the tires are expensive.  You can see mine:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/Mog.html

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] burning drain oil

2011-08-25 Thread Curt Raymond
I like using a quart or two a year, lubes up the moving bits inside the IP, 
makes the car noticeably quieter for awhile.

When it comes to diesel oil out of your cars remember its going to have soot in 
it and you'd want to get that out first. Needs a very good filter.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 14:21:50 -0500
From: Fmiser 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] burning drain oil
Message-ID: <20110825142150.1acf6806.fmi...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

> Douglas Jones wrote:

> I've got several diesels (240 300sd 300d) and change the oil
> myself. As a result I have several gals of drain oil sitting
> around at any one time. Could I burn that in my car a gal at a
> time with a full tank of diesel?

You _could_.

But Marshall said one quart per year might be beneficial, but
more that that would likely lead to coking injectors,
prechambers, etc.

So personally, I wouldn't.

--Philip 

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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Curt Raymond
I'm thinking Randy doesn't drive much ;)

Last time I had a clutch done it was about $1000, that was my '83 240D which 
actually needed a center carrier bearing (noisy) but got a replacement 
transmission. Figured to do the clutch while the trans was out.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 13:22:41 -0400
From: Mitch Haley 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] $1000 car
Message-ID: <4e5684e1.9010...@voyager.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Randy Bennell wrote:

> Some of the cost was labour as I had to have a major (clutch
> replacement) repair in the dead of winter and paid to have it done at a
> shop. ($3600 or thereabouts).

Wow. I'm thinking $700 parts, $400 labour in the worst case. How does the tab
get run up to $3k?



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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread WILTON
As a B -47E maintenance crew chief/mechanic 51-54 years ago, I did lotsa 
wrenching by feel plus a flashlight and a mirror.


Wilton

 Original Message - 
From: "Randy Bennell" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 3:43 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] $1000 car



On 25/08/2011 2:06 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

On Thu, 25 Aug 2011 14:28 -0400, "Mitch Haley"  wrote:


I thought that Ford had been concentrating on designing for ease of
maintenance since they introduced the Tempo in what, 1983? Maybe they
were only talking about making oil changes simple.

If so they've failed.  The oil filter on our Focus is on the back of the
transverse-mounted engine, only accessible from underneath the car with
an arm hooked around the passenger side front axle.  You pretty much
need to put the car on stands to get at it, though as I now know exactly
where it is I can squeeze under far enough to do it by feel.

Allan
--

My Wife's 07 4 cylinder Accord is like that too. Got to get under far 
enough to reach up behind the engine and undo it and then let the oil run 
all over you. And fish the new one up in without getting the top of it 
dirty. Not much space.


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Redghost
SWMBA paid $3k cash to the body shop to pound out dents idiot son put in the 
rear of the e300d.  Did not do full job by replacing bumpers.  She thinks Gump 
is a poor investment and expects me to replace it with some plastic car.

Now I drive the e d with duct tape instead.  Paid cash for both Benz, but I 
have yet to spend as much in shop cost on Gump than on her car.  Same period of 
ownership.  Now she has car payments, massive depreciation, and higher 
insurance fees.

Clay

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 25, 2011, at 9:47, Randy Bennell  wrote:

> On 24/08/2011 10:14 PM, Redghost wrote:
>> Gump was $120.  I got 60k miles on her, spent $2k, drove 6 years.  He'll of 
>> a lot better investment than some cars.  Will get at least that much as 
>> scrap, and have sold enough parts off her to cover a few tanks of fuel.
>> 
>> 
> Compare that with a nice little 1998 F150 regular cab shortbox 4X4 with a 4.3 
> V6 and a 5 speed manual transmission.
> 
> I bought it for about $12K with about 100K miles on it.
> 
> Over the next about 3 or 4 years, we spent about $10K on it and ended up 
> selling it for about $3,500.
> 
> Not a good deal in my opinion.
> 
> Some of the cost was labour as I had to have a major (clutch replacement) 
> repair in the dead of winter and paid to have it done at a shop. ($3600 or 
> thereabouts).
> It also had a nice expensive set of tires on it when we sold it so we cannot 
> hold that against it. Tires wear out and we sold the ones that we took off it 
> as they were not worn out. My younger son was driving it and he insisted he 
> had to have bigger better tires on it. He paid for them.
> 
> Most of the other stuff was fairly routine like - starter, alternator, ball 
> joints, shocks, brakes, plugs, wires etc. but it still seems like a lot over 
> a short period of time and we only drove it about 45K miles before we sold it.
> Would have been a lot more if my son had not done much of the later stuff 
> himself. (He was an apprentice then and is now a licenced mechanic.)  We had 
> some little plastic clips break on the back of the intake manifold that cause 
> butterfly valves to open and close in the intake manifold. $2 in parts (for 
> the clips) plus whatever it cost for the manifold gaskets BUT 2 days of work 
> to take it apart and put it back together.
> 
> Taking a chance here in that I might invite the gods of vehicle breakdowns 
> here but my 2002 F150 Supercrew has been much better.
> I have had it 5 years or thereabouts. Had about 90K miles when I bought it in 
> 2006 and now has about 150K miles.
> Have not spent as much on it.
> Brakes, tires, ball joints, plugs, etc.
> 3 ignition coils but two were might fault for not seeing what caused the 
> first to go out.
> Axle seals on the rear end more than once but the big cost on that is the 
> synthetic gear lube and it should be changed once in a while anyway.
> One power door lock actuator that gave up.
> That is about it.
> 
> Randy crossing his fingers
> 
> ___
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] 126 evapectomy

2011-08-25 Thread WILTON
Normal people can do it after careful study and proper preparation, then 
proceed with caution/care and patience.  'Only takes one small step at a 
time.


Yeah, 'may just need a charge, but the key question is, "How long is it 
gonna hold that charge, and where is the leak?"


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Alex Chamberlain" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 4:02 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 126 evapectomy



How hard is it? As bad as a 124? Should normal people attempt it, or
only Wilton?

Looking at a 300SD now, A/C of course "just needs a charge" per seller.

Alex

--
Sent from my mobile device

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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Dan Penoff
Very true.

However, my Ford Focus wagon has a complete dealer service history from the 
date of delivery, so my MB-ness forces me to continue work at the dealer 
whenever it makes fiscal sense, as this does.

They use the Motorcraft synthetic blend, whatever that is.  But I have broken 
them of pushing 3000 mile changes, since Ford says 5000-7500 in the book.

Ran logical rings around a service writer over that one day. Loved every minute 
of it, too.

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 25, 2011, at 3:44 PM, Randy Bennell  wrote:

> On 25/08/2011 2:18 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
>> When the stealership does oil and filter changes here for under $20, it's 
>> not worth the time and trouble to change the oil myself...
>> 
>> Dan
>> 
>> 
> In my experience, they rob me if I ask for Mobil 1.
> 
> Randy
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 126 evapectomy

2011-08-25 Thread Rich Thomas
Take a look at my 300SD  
http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/2471615425.html


It needs a charge to BLOW ICE COLD

--R

On 8/25/11 4:02 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

How hard is it? As bad as a 124? Should normal people attempt it, or
only Wilton?

Looking at a 300SD now, A/C of course "just needs a charge" per seller.

Alex



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[MBZ] 126 evapectomy

2011-08-25 Thread Alex Chamberlain
How hard is it? As bad as a 124? Should normal people attempt it, or
only Wilton?

Looking at a 300SD now, A/C of course "just needs a charge" per seller.

Alex

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Mitch Haley

Dan Penoff wrote:
I would also add that other companies, such as Nissan, are not making things easy, either. Try changing filters on an Altima sometime. If you don't get the car in the air, 


I think the point is the car is supposed to be over a pit or on a lift, as they 
do not expect anybody to change their own oil any more. In Randy's case, 
removing the transmission was hell even in a properly equipped shop.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Mitch Haley

Randy Bennell wrote:
 ___
I would not say that a system that requires the transmission to be 
removed in order to get to the slave cylinder is designed for easy 
maintenance. It is a circular design that goes around the main input 
shaft to the transmission. So, you cannot take it out without removing 
the tranny.


Saab 99s had a slave cylinder like that, but
1. I never saw one leak.
2. I could replace one in a half hour, because the input shaft was removable.

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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Randy Bennell

On 25/08/2011 2:18 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:

When the stealership does oil and filter changes here for under $20, it's not 
worth the time and trouble to change the oil myself...

Dan



In my experience, they rob me if I ask for Mobil 1.

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Randy Bennell

On 25/08/2011 2:06 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

On Thu, 25 Aug 2011 14:28 -0400, "Mitch Haley"  wrote:


I thought that Ford had been concentrating on designing for ease of
maintenance since they introduced the Tempo in what, 1983? Maybe they
were only talking about making oil changes simple.

If so they've failed.  The oil filter on our Focus is on the back of the
transverse-mounted engine, only accessible from underneath the car with
an arm hooked around the passenger side front axle.  You pretty much
need to put the car on stands to get at it, though as I now know exactly
where it is I can squeeze under far enough to do it by feel.

Allan
--

My Wife's 07 4 cylinder Accord is like that too. Got to get under far 
enough to reach up behind the engine and undo it and then let the oil 
run all over you. And fish the new one up in without getting the top of 
it dirty. Not much space.


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] burning drain oil

2011-08-25 Thread andrew strasfogel
There ought to be a recycler nearby for you to take it to.

On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 3:21 PM, Fmiser  wrote:

> > Douglas Jones wrote:
>
> > I've got several diesels (240 300sd 300d) and change the oil
> > myself. As a result I have several gals of drain oil sitting
> > around at any one time. Could I burn that in my car a gal at a
> > time with a full tank of diesel?
>
> You _could_.
>
> But Marshall said one quart per year might be beneficial, but
> more that that would likely lead to coking injectors,
> prechambers, etc.
>
> So personally, I wouldn't.
>
> --Philip
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Dan Penoff
I would also add that other companies, such as Nissan, are not making things 
easy, either. Try changing filters on an Altima sometime. If you don't get the 
car in the air, the filter can only be reached by turning the wheels to the 
left stop and reaching in through the right side wheel well.

Even then you can't lower the filter to the pan or ground, as the clearances 
are so tight it will only pass when it is oriented in a certain way.

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 25, 2011, at 3:18 PM, Dan Penoff  wrote:

> When the stealership does oil and filter changes here for under $20, it's not 
> worth the time and trouble to change the oil myself...
> 
> Dan
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Aug 25, 2011, at 3:06 PM, "Allan Streib"  wrote:
> 
>> On Thu, 25 Aug 2011 14:28 -0400, "Mitch Haley"  wrote:
>> 
>>> I thought that Ford had been concentrating on designing for ease of
>>> maintenance since they introduced the Tempo in what, 1983? Maybe they
>>> were only talking about making oil changes simple.
>> 
>> If so they've failed.  The oil filter on our Focus is on the back of the
>> transverse-mounted engine, only accessible from underneath the car with
>> an arm hooked around the passenger side front axle.  You pretty much
>> need to put the car on stands to get at it, though as I now know exactly
>> where it is I can squeeze under far enough to do it by feel.
>> 
>> Allan
>> --
>> 1983 300D
>> 1979 300SD
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] burning drain oil

2011-08-25 Thread Fmiser
> Douglas Jones wrote:

> I've got several diesels (240 300sd 300d) and change the oil
> myself. As a result I have several gals of drain oil sitting
> around at any one time. Could I burn that in my car a gal at a
> time with a full tank of diesel?

You _could_.

But Marshall said one quart per year might be beneficial, but
more that that would likely lead to coking injectors,
prechambers, etc.

So personally, I wouldn't.

--Philip 

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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Dan Penoff
When the stealership does oil and filter changes here for under $20, it's not 
worth the time and trouble to change the oil myself...

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 25, 2011, at 3:06 PM, "Allan Streib"  wrote:

> On Thu, 25 Aug 2011 14:28 -0400, "Mitch Haley"  wrote:
> 
>> I thought that Ford had been concentrating on designing for ease of
>> maintenance since they introduced the Tempo in what, 1983? Maybe they
>> were only talking about making oil changes simple.
> 
> If so they've failed.  The oil filter on our Focus is on the back of the
> transverse-mounted engine, only accessible from underneath the car with
> an arm hooked around the passenger side front axle.  You pretty much
> need to put the car on stands to get at it, though as I now know exactly
> where it is I can squeeze under far enough to do it by feel.
> 
> Allan
> --
> 1983 300D
> 1979 300SD
> 
> ___
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: printers

2011-08-25 Thread Fmiser
> > > Allen wrote:
> > >
> > > Ideally I'd like to fix this, maybe it needs cleaning
> > > somewhere.

> > On 8/25/2011 10:51 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:
> >
> > Usually the foam rubber pickup roller stops being grippy
> > enough. Often easy to replace, but maybe not so easy to
> > source the part. You could try cleaning it, but don't use
> > anything too aggressive.

> Fred Moir wrote:

> FWIW.
> The tape transport in VCRs have the same problem and the
> solutions are, replace, or use a chemical "re-gripper".

What I use for tape transports I got from MCM Electronics.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/FEDRON-8

It really works.  Especially on rubber parts that are just
getting glazed.  Really old, hard parts it's less effective.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Allan Streib
On Thu, 25 Aug 2011 14:28 -0400, "Mitch Haley"  wrote:

> I thought that Ford had been concentrating on designing for ease of
> maintenance since they introduced the Tempo in what, 1983? Maybe they
> were only talking about making oil changes simple.

If so they've failed.  The oil filter on our Focus is on the back of the
transverse-mounted engine, only accessible from underneath the car with
an arm hooked around the passenger side front axle.  You pretty much
need to put the car on stands to get at it, though as I now know exactly
where it is I can squeeze under far enough to do it by feel.

Allan
--
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Wasn't implying you were, I just know that billed hours are understandably
more in the winter, since ma nature likes throwing a hockey puck in the
works for you.

Walt
On Aug 25, 2011 2:25 PM, "Randy Bennell"  wrote:
> On 25/08/2011 1:12 PM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:
>> "Dead of winter"<--- that's how it gets ran up.
>>
>> Walt
>>
>
> Well, I don't think I was robbed. The shop is owned by someone I know.
> The head mechanic is my brother in law and he was the one who did the
> work on it.
> My son later served part of his apprenticeship at that shop.
> So, although I won't say I got a big discount, I also think I paid a
> fair price for what was done, all things considered.
> Not sure I could have done it on the floor in my garage very easily
> anyway but given it was Christmas time and I am here in the Great White
> North, I did not even attempt it.
> If I could have let it go until spring, I might have just sold the truck
> as it worked fine in warmer weather. The cold exacerbated the matter and
> it was causing the gears to grind on shifting. I decided I did not want
> to destroy the tranny and my son was driving it back and forth to
> school about 15 miles each way through city traffic so there was a bit
> of shifting happening. But, I had not expected the cost to go quite that
> high. In retrospect we should have just got another vehicle and sold
> that one in the spring. Isn't hindsight wonderful.
> I will also say that I was never all that happy with it afterwards. I do
> not think it is good to use aftermarket clutch kits. I have experienced
> that twice now. Once on our old 4Runner and once on that Ford. If I had
> it to do over, I would get a factory replacement as the clutch just did
> not feel the same after.
>
> Randy
>
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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 11:20 AM, Randy Bennell  wrote:
> On 25/08/2011 12:22 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:
>> Randy Bennell wrote:
>>> Some of the cost was labour as I had to have a major (clutch replacement)
>>> repair in the dead of winter and paid to have it done at a shop. ($3600 or
>>> thereabouts).
>>
>> Wow. I'm thinking $700 parts, $400 labour in the worst case. How does the
>> tab get run up to $3k?
>>
> Well, first of all it is a 4X4 so a bit harder to get apart and put back
> together.
> I think it was about half parts and half labour.
>

That's about what the tab was when I had the clutch done on my
Trooper, and for the same reasons.  Pretty much the whole driveline
plus exhaust had to come out.  Transmission, clutch, front
differential, center differential, and transfer case are all packed in
there pretty tight on any small-to-medium-sized SUV or 4WD truck.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Randy Bennell

On 25/08/2011 1:28 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

Randy Bennell wrote:

These trucks have torsion bars that go into the cross member at the 
back end of the bar so one cannot pull the cross member unless one 
wishes to release and remove the torsion bars etc so it makes for a 
bit of a job to get the tranny and transfer case out. Had to cut the 
exhaust and reweld it etc. All takes time.




I thought that Ford had been concentrating on designing for ease of 
maintenance since they introduced the Tempo in what, 1983? Maybe they 
were only talking about making oil changes simple.


Mitch.

___
I would not say that a system that requires the transmission to be 
removed in order to get to the slave cylinder is designed for easy 
maintenance. It is a circular design that goes around the main input 
shaft to the transmission. So, you cannot take it out without removing 
the tranny.


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Ive got the mog bug

2011-08-25 Thread Rolf

Thats hawt!

On 08/25/2011 01:21 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:

Wife says if I sell the 85 I can get a truck. Very practical of her I
have decided. I believe a unimog will fit the bill and perhaps fill a
hole in my heart that my motorcycling days have left. Apparently you can
get a 404 s for a reasonable sum these days. Any mog owners on the list?


I would not want the Mog as a daily driver.  Too rude and crude.
And slow.  And the tires are expensive.  You can see mine:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/Mog.html

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Mitch Haley

Randy Bennell wrote:

These trucks have torsion bars that go into the cross member at the back 
end of the bar so one cannot pull the cross member unless one wishes to 
release and remove the torsion bars etc so it makes for a bit of a job 
to get the tranny and transfer case out. Had to cut the exhaust and 
reweld it etc. All takes time.




I thought that Ford had been concentrating on designing for ease of maintenance 
since they introduced the Tempo in what, 1983? Maybe they were only talking 
about making oil changes simple.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Randy Bennell

On 25/08/2011 1:12 PM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:

"Dead of winter"<--- that's how it gets ran up.

Walt



Well, I don't think I was robbed. The shop is owned by someone I know. 
The head mechanic is my brother in law and he was the one who did the 
work on it.

My son later served part of his apprenticeship at that shop.
So, although I won't say I got a big discount, I also think I paid a 
fair price for what was done, all things considered.
Not sure I could have done it on the floor in my garage very easily 
anyway but given it was Christmas time and I am here in the Great White 
North, I did not even attempt it.
If I could have let it go until spring, I might have just sold the truck 
as it worked fine in warmer weather. The cold exacerbated the matter and 
it was causing the gears to grind on shifting. I decided I did not want 
to destroy the tranny and my son was driving it back and forth to 
school  about 15 miles each way through city traffic so there was a bit 
of shifting happening. But, I had not expected the cost to go quite that 
high. In retrospect we should have just got another vehicle and sold 
that one in the spring. Isn't hindsight wonderful.
I will also say that I was never all that happy with it afterwards. I do 
not think it is good to use aftermarket clutch kits. I have experienced 
that twice now. Once on our old 4Runner and once on that Ford. If I had 
it to do over, I would get a factory replacement as the clutch just did 
not feel the same after.


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Randy Bennell

On 25/08/2011 12:22 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

Randy Bennell wrote:

Some of the cost was labour as I had to have a major (clutch 
replacement) repair in the dead of winter and paid to have it done at 
a shop. ($3600 or thereabouts).


Wow. I'm thinking $700 parts, $400 labour in the worst case. How does 
the tab get run up to $3k?


Well, first of all it is a 4X4 so a bit harder to get apart and put back 
together.

I think it was about half parts and half labour.

Clutch kit, master and slave cylinders for hydraulic clutch (which was 
why it had to come apart in the first place - slave was leaking and does 
not come out without full disassembly) , flywheel machined, etc. Plus a 
couple of other things such as the front drive shaft was getting seized 
where the slip joint is so it got replaced. Some coolant pipe was 
dripping as it had pin holes and it is only availble from Ford for 
something like $200 etc.


These trucks have torsion bars that go into the cross member at the back 
end of the bar so one cannot pull the cross member unless one wishes to 
release and remove the torsion bars etc so it makes for a bit of a job 
to get the tranny and transfer case out. Had to cut the exhaust and 
reweld it etc. All takes time.


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Walt Zarnoch
"Dead of winter" <--- that's how it gets ran up.

Walt
On Aug 25, 2011 1:23 PM, "Mitch Haley"  wrote:
> Randy Bennell wrote:
>
>> Some of the cost was labour as I had to have a major (clutch
>> replacement) repair in the dead of winter and paid to have it done at a
>> shop. ($3600 or thereabouts).
>
> Wow. I'm thinking $700 parts, $400 labour in the worst case. How does the
tab
> get run up to $3k?
>
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel News

2011-08-25 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 3:18 AM, Hans Neureiter  wrote:
> Horsepower and torque, however, are not compromised. In prototype form,
> Skyactiv-D generates 170 horsepower and 310 pound-feet of torque, compared
> to the production 2.2-liter's standard 148 horsepower and 270 pound-feet.
>

Sounds just right to go into the Rx-8, since Mazda according to
reports is giving up on the rotary engine.

I wouldn't hold my breath waiting to see if we get this or any other
Japanese diesel in the USA, though.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Mitch Haley

Randy Bennell wrote:

Some of the cost was labour as I had to have a major (clutch 
replacement) repair in the dead of winter and paid to have it done at a 
shop. ($3600 or thereabouts).


Wow. I'm thinking $700 parts, $400 labour in the worst case. How does the tab 
get run up to $3k?


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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Randy Bennell

On 24/08/2011 10:14 PM, Redghost wrote:

Gump was $120.  I got 60k miles on her, spent $2k, drove 6 years.  He'll of a 
lot better investment than some cars.  Will get at least that much as scrap, 
and have sold enough parts off her to cover a few tanks of fuel.


 Compare that with a nice little 1998 F150 regular cab shortbox 4X4 
with a 4.3 V6 and a 5 speed manual transmission.


I bought it for about $12K with about 100K miles on it.

Over the next about 3 or 4 years, we spent about $10K on it and ended up 
selling it for about $3,500.


Not a good deal in my opinion.

Some of the cost was labour as I had to have a major (clutch 
replacement) repair in the dead of winter and paid to have it done at a 
shop. ($3600 or thereabouts).
It also had a nice expensive set of tires on it when we sold it so we 
cannot hold that against it. Tires wear out and we sold the ones that we 
took off it as they were not worn out. My younger son was driving it and 
he insisted he had to have bigger better tires on it. He paid for them.


Most of the other stuff was fairly routine like - starter, alternator, 
ball joints, shocks, brakes, plugs, wires etc. but it still seems like a 
lot over a short period of time and we only drove it about 45K miles 
before we sold it.
Would have been a lot more if my son had not done much of the later 
stuff himself. (He was an apprentice then and is now a licenced 
mechanic.)  We had some little plastic clips break on the back of the 
intake manifold that cause butterfly valves to open and close in the 
intake manifold. $2 in parts (for the clips) plus whatever it cost for 
the manifold gaskets BUT 2 days of work to take it apart and put it back 
together.


Taking a chance here in that I might invite the gods of vehicle 
breakdowns here but my 2002 F150 Supercrew has been much better.
I have had it 5 years or thereabouts. Had about 90K miles when I bought 
it in 2006 and now has about 150K miles.

Have not spent as much on it.
Brakes, tires, ball joints, plugs, etc.
3 ignition coils but two were might fault for not seeing what caused the 
first to go out.
Axle seals on the rear end more than once but the big cost on that is 
the synthetic gear lube and it should be changed once in a while anyway.

One power door lock actuator that gave up.
That is about it.

Randy crossing his fingers

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Re: [MBZ] OT: printers

2011-08-25 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 8:51 AM, Fred Moir  wrote:
> FWIW.
> The tape transport in VCRs have the same problem and the solutions are,
> replace, or use a chemical "re-gripper". Brush it on and it softens and
> rejuvenates the roller.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/20-1890

The 2 oz size has lasted me about ten years now, and I've used it
successfully on about a dozen thrift-store printers and tape players.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] OT: printers

2011-08-25 Thread Mitch Haley

Walt Zarnoch wrote:

Armour-all might work?


That's what I use to make leather/plastic/rubber slippery.

Used to put it on bicycle seats. Do NOT put it on a motorcycle seat, my brother 
did that once to his Kawasaki H-1 in the 1970s and scared himself half to death.


Mitch.

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[MBZ] burning drain oil

2011-08-25 Thread Douglas Jones
I've got several diesels (240 300sd 300d) and change the oil myself. As a 
result I have several gals of drain oil sitting around at any one time. Could I 
burn that in my car a gal at a time with a full tank of diesel?
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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Redghost
Well served.  That is why I am able to reluctantly let her go.  My PnP stash is 
another $250 investment that should translate into good cash on sale.  All I 
need are buyers.  I kaleb would come this way, he could have a containers worth 
of parts to peddle.  

Clay

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 25, 2011, at 0:06, "kevin kraly"  wrote:

> Wow, I didn't know that Gump was a $120 car!  60K miles out of a $2K total 
> investment = double wow!  That's way less than the average car payment for 
> average transportation, and a W115 is far from that, IMO.  He served you well 
> indeed!
> 
> Kevin in Hillsboro, Oregon 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Hood star

2011-08-25 Thread WILTON

'Thought so.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Rusty Cullens" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hood star



Oops, same as W123, W124 & W201


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: "WILTON" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 10:28 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hood star



How 'bout 126?

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Rusty Cullens" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hood star



here is a quick explanation of hood stars.
W108 fits W108
W114 fits W114
W115 fits W115
W116 fits W116
W123 fits W123, W124, W201
W140 fits W140


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
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AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2011 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hood star



Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
123 did not replace the 116, the 123 replaced the 115, the 126 
replaced the 116


I thought the 116 part number hood star (the subject of this thread) 
was superseded by the 123 hood star, but the 123 is smaller.


Did the 123 get superseded by the 201, or do they still sell new 123 
stars?


I finally found the text in Hursley's message, he has a 201 star he'd 
part with. Who wanted the star in the first place, Allan?


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: printers

2011-08-25 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Armour-all might work?

Walt

On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 11:51 AM, Fred Moir  wrote:
> FWIW.
> The tape transport in VCRs have the same problem and the solutions are,
> replace, or use a chemical "re-gripper". Brush it on and it softens and
> rejuvenates the roller.
> If wanted, I could ask my buddy to give me the correct info, brand, supplier
> etc.
>
> Fred Moir
> Lynn MA
> Diesel preferred
>
>
> On 8/25/2011 10:51 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:
>>>
>>> Ideally I'd like to fix this, maybe it needs cleaning somewhere.
>>
>> Usually the foam rubber pickup roller stops being grippy enough.
>> Often easy to replace, but maybe not so easy to source the part.
>> You could try cleaning it, but don't use anything too aggressive.
>>
>>> What I'd like [in color] is:
>>
>> I didn't notice print longevity on your list.  You do know
>> that laser prints will outlast the paper they're fused to,
>> whereas most inks are far, far less durable?
>>
>> It is a factor to be aware of.  We use laser printers for
>> all of our B&W needs.  (90% of our printing here is sheet
>> music and financial records.)
>>
>> -- Jim
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
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>>
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>>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT: printers

2011-08-25 Thread Fred Moir

FWIW.
The tape transport in VCRs have the same problem and the solutions are, 
replace, or use a chemical "re-gripper". Brush it on and it softens and 
rejuvenates the roller.
If wanted, I could ask my buddy to give me the correct info, brand, 
supplier etc.


Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred


On 8/25/2011 10:51 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:

Ideally I'd like to fix this, maybe it needs cleaning somewhere.


Usually the foam rubber pickup roller stops being grippy enough.
Often easy to replace, but maybe not so easy to source the part.
You could try cleaning it, but don't use anything too aggressive.


What I'd like [in color] is:


I didn't notice print longevity on your list.  You do know
that laser prints will outlast the paper they're fused to,
whereas most inks are far, far less durable?

It is a factor to be aware of.  We use laser printers for
all of our B&W needs.  (90% of our printing here is sheet
music and financial records.)

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] OT: printers

2011-08-25 Thread Dan Penoff
My printer knowledge is not current, but if you are looking at color laserjet 
printers, I would offer the following advice:

1.) Pay careful attention to the supplies. Check to see if "starter" cartridges 
are used, or if regular capacity cartridges are installed. This is a common 
practice among printer manufacturers, and can make a significant difference in 
the price when you consider you may have to purchase a complete set of 
cartridges within a short time of buying the printer.

When I bought my Konica/Minolta color laserjet a few years ago, it was the only 
machine in it's price range that had standard cartridges. The difference 
between it and comparable machines with starter cartridges was only about $60.  
A complete set of regular cartridges is about $300. Ouch. I am still on the 
originals after 4 years.

2.) Two words: Hewlett Packard.  You might want to check CL for a good used HP 
unit. Properly cared for, their stuff is frickin' bulletproof.

The only reason I didn't buy an HP myself was that the choices they had in my 
price range at the time were consumer grade machines that would not last a long 
time.

If I was going to buy a monochrome laserjet it would be a used 4000 series HP.  
Those machine would survive a nuclear blast, just about.

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 25, 2011, at 10:34 AM, "Allan Streib"  wrote:

> I have a cheap-o Samsung black-only laser printer at home.  Bought it a few 
> years ago on sale and with a rebate, it cost me something like $50.  So I've 
> gotten my money's worth, but it's developed a problem where it will detect a 
> paper feed error about 75% of the time it tries to pull a sheet out of the 
> tray for printing.
> 
> Simply opening and closing the paper tray will cause it to try again, and it 
> eventually works.
> 
> Ideally I'd like to fix this, maybe it needs cleaning somewhere.
> 
> But assuming I need to replace it, anyone have a model they'd recommend?  At 
> this point I'd want color capability, but I know there are some brands that 
> will rape you on the ink refills.
> 
> What I'd like is:
> 
> Decent print quality
> Reliable
> PC (Windows XP) and Mac compatible
> Networkable (though sharing via a host computer would be acceptable)
> Reasonably priced and reasonably priced ink.
> 
> Suggestions?  I don't do a lot of printing at home so something office-grade 
> would be overkill.
> 
> Allan
> --
> 1983 300D
> 1979 300SD
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] OT: printers

2011-08-25 Thread Tim C
If you can't get it fixed easily, you should be able to get a Color Laserjet
5 or the like, or if you can deal with black any of the HP Laserjets 4-6.
Go craigslist or local pickup, get the jet direct card and postscript SIMM
if it's a choice.

Toner is somewhat hard to find retail but you can get it on Ebay; the big
advantage is that HP parts are still pretty widely available.

I have a CLJ5 in the basement, backup to my CLJ8550dn (thrift store find)
now but it had a long hard life before. :) Not photo quality but it has
worked every time I have turned it on, and NOS toner is crazy cheap.

Even if you do get the Samsung working you might keep an eye out for a good
deal, I have not regretted going to ex-commercial printers even for the few
hundred pages we print in a year.  No doubt I could get prettier pictures
but I value reliability more.

-Tim

On Aug 25, 2011 10:55 AM, "Benz Hogs"  wrote:
>
> Classic sign of pickup roller wear.  They can be cleaned with a small
amount of rubbing alcohol.  Sometimes this will get extra life out of them.
>
> www.partsnow.com has a good supply of printer parts and has been around
for many years, 20+ or so that I remember my Dad dealing with them.
>
>  Luther   KB5QHUOak Park, IL
> '87 300SDL (312,xxx mi)
> '91 Dodge Ram 150 (290,xxx mi)
>
>
> On 8/25/2011 9:34 AM, Allan Streib wrote:
>>
>> I have a cheap-o Samsung black-only laser printer at home.  Bought it a
few years ago on sale and with a rebate, it cost me something like $50.  So
I've gotten my money's worth, but it's developed a problem where it will
detect a paper feed error about 75% of the time it tries to pull a sheet out
of the tray for printing.
>>
>> Simply opening and closing the paper tray will cause it to try again, and
it eventually works.
>>
>> Ideally I'd like to fix this, maybe it needs cleaning somewhere.
>>
>> But assuming I need to replace it, anyone have a model they'd recommend?
 At this point I'd want color capability, but I know there are some brands
that will rape you on the ink refills.
>>
>> What I'd like is:
>>
>> Decent print quality
>> Reliable
>> PC (Windows XP) and Mac compatible
>> Networkable (though sharing via a host computer would be acceptable)
>> Reasonably priced and reasonably priced ink.
>>
>> Suggestions?  I don't do a lot of printing at home so something
office-grade would be overkill.
>>
>> Allan
>> --
>> 1983 300D
>> 1979 300SD
>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
> ___
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] OT: printers

2011-08-25 Thread Mitch Haley


Watch for printers in Hot Deals at fatwallet.com

And subscribe to the shell shocker emails from newegg.com.

Brother printers that take the #61 (or #65 high capacity) ink refills have low 
operating costs and decent reliability. I get generic ink at Meritline when its 
on sale for $7.95 for eight (two of each color). Now I need to find a deal on 
just the black ink, I've got too much color. Even if I had to pay the regular 
$16 for eight ink tanks it'd be a bargain.

http://www.meritline.com/brother-lc61-ink-compatible-combo-4---p-29986.aspx

This was on sale for $58.99 with free shipping last week. My dad has this model 
and likes it. Uses the same 61/65 ink as my big 11x17 office printer.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16828113506

My Brother was $61 after tax, coupons and $50 trade in at Staples last winter. 
Saved me the cost of disposing of a 15 year old busted Lexmark.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16828113549

http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/hot-deals/
http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/search/results.php?type=forums&query=printer&sort=&match=titles&forum=18&newsort=date

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Re: [MBZ] OT: printers

2011-08-25 Thread Benz Hogs
Classic sign of pickup roller wear.  They can be cleaned with a small 
amount of rubbing alcohol.  Sometimes this will get extra life out of them.


www.partsnow.com has a good supply of printer parts and has been around 
for many years, 20+ or so that I remember my Dad dealing with them.


 Luther   KB5QHUOak Park, IL
'87 300SDL (312,xxx mi)
'91 Dodge Ram 150 (290,xxx mi)

On 8/25/2011 9:34 AM, Allan Streib wrote:

I have a cheap-o Samsung black-only laser printer at home.  Bought it a few 
years ago on sale and with a rebate, it cost me something like $50.  So I've 
gotten my money's worth, but it's developed a problem where it will detect a 
paper feed error about 75% of the time it tries to pull a sheet out of the tray 
for printing.

Simply opening and closing the paper tray will cause it to try again, and it 
eventually works.

Ideally I'd like to fix this, maybe it needs cleaning somewhere.

But assuming I need to replace it, anyone have a model they'd recommend?  At 
this point I'd want color capability, but I know there are some brands that 
will rape you on the ink refills.

What I'd like is:

Decent print quality
Reliable
PC (Windows XP) and Mac compatible
Networkable (though sharing via a host computer would be acceptable)
Reasonably priced and reasonably priced ink.

Suggestions?  I don't do a lot of printing at home so something office-grade 
would be overkill.

Allan
--
1983 300D
1979 300SD


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Re: [MBZ] OT: printers

2011-08-25 Thread G Mann
Common error for this type of printer that's sometimes caused by the paper
pickup wheel becoming glazed with residue from the sheets it has picked from
the stack in it's lifetime.

Most paper has a finish that under friction will transfer to surface of the
wheel. Since the "new" texture of the drive wheel is sort of like a pencil
eraser once it become "slick" it fails to feed.

Suggest you first try Qtip with denatured alky and just wipe down the paper
pickup wheels. Failing that, remove them and carefully sand them with 400
grit wet/dry, clean them and reinstall... should work.  Other option is to
replace with new, however, in my experience, there is no "Rusty" go to
source for such items, so you may have to get in touch with "Peggy" to find
them.
Good luck!!

Grant...
If it's diesel, I own it.

On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 7:34 AM, Allan Streib  wrote:

> I have a cheap-o Samsung black-only laser printer at home.  Bought it a few
> years ago on sale and with a rebate, it cost me something like $50.  So I've
> gotten my money's worth, but it's developed a problem where it will detect a
> paper feed error about 75% of the time it tries to pull a sheet out of the
> tray for printing.
>
> Simply opening and closing the paper tray will cause it to try again, and
> it eventually works.
>
> Ideally I'd like to fix this, maybe it needs cleaning somewhere.
>
> But assuming I need to replace it, anyone have a model they'd recommend?
>  At this point I'd want color capability, but I know there are some brands
> that will rape you on the ink refills.
>
> What I'd like is:
>
> Decent print quality
> Reliable
> PC (Windows XP) and Mac compatible
> Networkable (though sharing via a host computer would be acceptable)
> Reasonably priced and reasonably priced ink.
>
> Suggestions?  I don't do a lot of printing at home so something
> office-grade would be overkill.
>
> Allan
> --
> 1983 300D
> 1979 300SD
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT: printers

2011-08-25 Thread Jim Cathey

Ideally I'd like to fix this, maybe it needs cleaning somewhere.


Usually the foam rubber pickup roller stops being grippy enough.
Often easy to replace, but maybe not so easy to source the part.
You could try cleaning it, but don't use anything too aggressive.


What I'd like [in color] is:


I didn't notice print longevity on your list.  You do know
that laser prints will outlast the paper they're fused to,
whereas most inks are far, far less durable?

It is a factor to be aware of.  We use laser printers for
all of our B&W needs.  (90% of our printing here is sheet
music and financial records.)

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Hood star

2011-08-25 Thread Rusty Cullens

Oops, same as W123, W124 & W201


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: "WILTON" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 10:28 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hood star



How 'bout 126?

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Rusty Cullens" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hood star



here is a quick explanation of hood stars.
W108 fits W108
W114 fits W114
W115 fits W115
W116 fits W116
W123 fits W123, W124, W201
W140 fits W140


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2011 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hood star



Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
123 did not replace the 116, the 123 replaced the 115, the 126 replaced 
the 116


I thought the 116 part number hood star (the subject of this thread) was 
superseded by the 123 hood star, but the 123 is smaller.


Did the 123 get superseded by the 201, or do they still sell new 123 
stars?


I finally found the text in Hursley's message, he has a 201 star he'd 
part with. Who wanted the star in the first place, Allan?


Mitch.

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[MBZ] OT: printers

2011-08-25 Thread Allan Streib
I have a cheap-o Samsung black-only laser printer at home.  Bought it a few 
years ago on sale and with a rebate, it cost me something like $50.  So I've 
gotten my money's worth, but it's developed a problem where it will detect a 
paper feed error about 75% of the time it tries to pull a sheet out of the tray 
for printing.

Simply opening and closing the paper tray will cause it to try again, and it 
eventually works.

Ideally I'd like to fix this, maybe it needs cleaning somewhere.

But assuming I need to replace it, anyone have a model they'd recommend?  At 
this point I'd want color capability, but I know there are some brands that 
will rape you on the ink refills.

What I'd like is:

Decent print quality
Reliable
PC (Windows XP) and Mac compatible
Networkable (though sharing via a host computer would be acceptable)
Reasonably priced and reasonably priced ink.

Suggestions?  I don't do a lot of printing at home so something office-grade 
would be overkill.

Allan
--
1983 300D
1979 300SD


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Re: [MBZ] Hood star

2011-08-25 Thread WILTON

How 'bout 126?

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Rusty Cullens" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hood star



here is a quick explanation of hood stars.
W108 fits W108
W114 fits W114
W115 fits W115
W116 fits W116
W123 fits W123, W124, W201
W140 fits W140


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2011 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hood star



Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
123 did not replace the 116, the 123 replaced the 115, the 126 replaced 
the 116


I thought the 116 part number hood star (the subject of this thread) was 
superseded by the 123 hood star, but the 123 is smaller.


Did the 123 get superseded by the 201, or do they still sell new 123 
stars?


I finally found the text in Hursley's message, he has a 201 star he'd 
part with. Who wanted the star in the first place, Allan?


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Hood star

2011-08-25 Thread Jim Cathey

W114 fits W114
W115 fits W115


So I have personally had in my stable two different 115's
that use two different hood star assemblies.  One has a
large radiator-cap sized hole in the grille, and the other's
was much smaller, similar to the newer cars'.

I swapped grilles to put the spare hood star I had onto
the Frankenheap, which was a Euro 200D, and had the large
hole originally.  (And which traveled with the parts car
to its next owner.)

Is it possible that one was really the 114?  Or were there
really two incompatible 115 star assemblies?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Power Steering Fluid

2011-08-25 Thread Allan Streib
On Thu, 25 Aug 2011 09:28 -0400, "Max Dillon"  wrote:

> Should work fine in the older MB cars. Can also use to lube the throttle 
> linkage.

Older cars use ATF for power steering, no?

--
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Hood star

2011-08-25 Thread Rusty Cullens

here is a quick explanation of hood stars.
W108 fits W108
W114 fits W114
W115 fits W115
W116 fits W116
W123 fits W123, W124, W201
W140 fits W140


Rusty Cullens
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- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2011 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hood star



Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
123 did not replace the 116, the 123 replaced the 115, the 126 replaced 
the 116


I thought the 116 part number hood star (the subject of this thread) was 
superseded by the 123 hood star, but the 123 is smaller.


Did the 123 get superseded by the 201, or do they still sell new 123 
stars?


I finally found the text in Hursley's message, he has a 201 star he'd part 
with. Who wanted the star in the first place, Allan?


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Power Steering Fluid

2011-08-25 Thread Max Dillon
Should work fine in the older MB cars. Can also use to lube the throttle 
linkage.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Jerry Herrman  wrote:

It appears I throw nothing away. Which is why I have run out of room in the 
garage. Gotta get rid of some things.
Let's start with PS fluid. I have about a dozen bottles, various brands. Never 
used even one. (Please don't ask why I acquired them).They are the "one size 
fits all" type, claiming they are compatible with all PS units. Y'all have 
taught me not to believe that.
It goes against my instincts to just throw things out, like normal people do. 
So, does anyone know of an alternate use for these products, other than burning 
them is a diesel engine? (Chain saw oil, thread cutting oil, killing 
ants/termites, compost pile, ANYTHING?) 
Will they be valuable one day?
Your thoughts?

Jerry
1982 240D 


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Re: [MBZ] Power Steering Fluid

2011-08-25 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Mix with acetone, use on stuck bolts.

Walt
On Aug 24, 2011 11:22 PM, "Jerry Herrman"  wrote:
> It appears I throw nothing away. Which is why I have run out of room in
the garage. Gotta get rid of some things.
> Let's start with PS fluid. I have about a dozen bottles, various brands.
Never used even one. (Please don't ask why I acquired them).They are the
"one size fits all" type, claiming they are compatible with all PS units.
Y'all have taught me not to believe that.
> It goes against my instincts to just throw things out, like normal people
do. So, does anyone know of an alternate use for these products, other than
burning them is a diesel engine? (Chain saw oil, thread cutting oil, killing
ants/termites, compost pile, ANYTHING?)
> Will they be valuable one day?
> Your thoughts?
>
> Jerry
> 1982 240D
>
>
> __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
signature database 6407 (20110824) __
>
> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] 1983 Mercedes 300D Hard Starting / AC Issue.

2011-08-25 Thread Hans Neureiter
Seized compressor is not unheard off.
What stymies me is the frozen clutch.
But as they say "Mechanics 101: If it moves, it will fail"
A good flush through lines, evaporator and condenser, new compressor, drier
and expansion valve will fix it.
I flushed going in through the manifold both ways to the drier connections
(drill a hole through the old exp.valve inlet ports).
On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 4:15 PM,  wrote:

> As suggested I cut the belt and found that the ac compressor did not turn
> by hand.  The car started immediately..one problem solved!   If the
> compressor is seized does that usually mean the freon is contaminated with
> metal fragments?  Any further suggestions or tests are welcome.
>
> Bob
> --
> Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
> '82 300SD
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Hans Neureiter
Bought the '82 in '94 for $ 2,500. Huge investment.
1 motor (entirely my fault), 1 tranny + misc. repairs later (starter,
steering and suspension, A/C, etc.) I now have less than maybe $ 8,000 in
it.
That boils down to $ 500/year or 2 months worth of car payments/year for a
daily driver.
-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
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[MBZ] Diesel News

2011-08-25 Thread Hans Neureiter
Found this in *windingroad.com*


*Skyactiv-D*

The Skyactiv-D stands apart as Mazda's killer, counterintuitive innovation
of the entire Skyactiv initiative.

For years, diesel engines have benefited from increasing compression ratios
and cylinder pressures. Mazda's current 2.2-liter diesel (never available in
the US) already utilizes a relatively low 16.3:1 compression ratio, but
still relies on heavy-duty componentry to support the still-high pressures.
Other diesel engines have higher compression ratios ranging up to 23:1.

Knowing that NOx and soot were issues related to higher compression ratios,
Mazda abandoned the trend. Engineers conjured the concept of a lightweight
diesel engine that they estimate will deliver a 20-percent fuel economy
increase while meeting EU6 emissions standards. All that without any after
treatments more complex than a standard diesel oxidation catalyst and
particulate filter.

To reach these goals, cylinder pressures needed to drop further still.

The idea of reduced compression ratios was not without its challenges. For
example, low-compression diesels have a tough time starting and running at
low temperatures. Clever and thorough engineering met the issues head-on.

First, the all-new Skyactiv-D's compression ratio is just 14:1, the lowest
of any modern production diesel engine. Mazda lead diesel engineer Tsuyoshi
Goto explained that the low compression ratio helps prevent the formation of
NOx and soot by allowing for more complete air/fuel mixing in the combustion
chamber. High-compression diesels tend to suffer from ignition occurring
before the air/fuel mixture completely mixes. Combustion pressure maxes at
1860 psi (30kg/cm2), 20 percent lower than the current 2.2 diesel.

The lower cylinder pressures also reduce the incidents of pre-ignition, a
fact that helped Mazda engineers better control when the ignition process
starts. In the Skyactiv-D, the charge ignites at top-dead-center rather than
slightly after in high-compression diesels. This enables a longer power
stroke, improving efficiency.

The 2.2-liter four-cylinder engine uses biturbocharging. A small unit
provides quick throttle response below 2500 rpm when a valve in the exhaust
manifold shifts gasses toward the turbine of the larger unit.

Fuel enters each cylinder via multi-hole Piezo injectors fed by 2200 psi of
pressure. Mazda uses a stratified injection strategy that utilizes up to
eight fuel pulses per power stroke.

Another benefit of the lower compression is the lower physical stresses on
the engine's structure and rotating assembly. Because of this lessened
stress, the engine’s internals can be made lighter overall. Thus the
Skyactiv-D engine weighs 20 kilograms less than the current diesel,
including a critical 20-percent reduction in rotational mass.

Horsepower and torque, however, are not compromised. In prototype form,
Skyactiv-D generates 170 horsepower and 310 pound-feet of torque, compared
to the production 2.2-liter's standard 148 horsepower and 270 pound-feet.

Another benefit of the Skyactiv-D's low compression is the expansion of the
engine's power band. The engine makes useful power until a petrol-like 5000
rpm, where standard diesels run out of huff after about 3500 rpm.
Impressively, the new diesel also makes more power at lower rpms—about 50
more pound-feet at 1200 rpm than the old 2.2.

That Mazda engineers have worked so hard and so innovatively to make a
diesel that is this clean and efficient is admirable. That they have also
created an engine that is of real interest to enthusiast drivers is quite
magical.

We’ve had no trouble advocating for the few diesel-powered cars on the
market in the US—they tend to be a lot of fun to drive, in most situations.
But, despite the addictive pop of torque that diesel offers, and that we
love, the truth is that diesel-typical low redlines (and attendant lack of
sonic punch) tend to take us out of the experience a bit.

So, while the added low-rpm torque and extra grunt overall is very much
appreciated, the real win here is the longer rev range, we’d argue. In our
short test drive of the Skyactiv-D mule, we quickly saw that the motor
offered enough flat-out acceleration to compete with most of the mainstream
V-6-powered sedans that we’ve driven. The biturbo setup really killed any
feeling of lag down in the low revs, while mid-range thrust was hilariously
strong.

Better still, the car actually sounded like a bit of a performance machine.
We did notice the typical diesel-clatter from low speeds (though much of
this may be tuned out when the cars are in production trim), but under a
full boot of throttle the tailpipe let out a strong, loudish, rising exhaust
note. We were equal parts stunned and thrilled when we first heard it, and
the booming voice definitely kept us gunning the Skyactiv-D throughout our
test drive.


-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Michael Canfield
My first MBZ was a $500 240d.  I drove it 30k miles or so.  Steve MacSween
put an engine in it an as far as I know is still driving it.  There IS such
a thing as a cheap Mercedes if you aren't anal about perfection.  I have put
6k miles on my $1100 300d on near free wvo and have replaced one rear wheel
bearing and a cv shaft along with routine maint.  Beats the heck out of a
car payment if you ask me.  I drive the best car made for the cheapest
cost..just doesn't seem fair to everyone making paymentshahhahahaha.
I love my " this shitty economy" car.
  As far as reliability goes, I have been to MI, VA and all over NY with it
and would not hesitate a second to drive across the USA with it.

Mike
On Aug 25, 2011 3:06 AM, "kevin kraly"  wrote:
> Wow, I didn't know that Gump was a $120 car! 60K miles out of a $2K total
> investment = double wow! That's way less than the average car payment for
> average transportation, and a W115 is far from that, IMO. He served you
> well indeed!
>
> Kevin in Hillsboro, Oregon
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread Walt Zarnoch
My trucks have all been $400 or less.

Trick is to get em when you know what's wrong with them, and the repair
costs are worth it.

Walt
On Aug 25, 2011 3:06 AM, "kevin kraly"  wrote:
> Wow, I didn't know that Gump was a $120 car! 60K miles out of a $2K total
> investment = double wow! That's way less than the average car payment for
> average transportation, and a W115 is far from that, IMO. He served you
> well indeed!
>
> Kevin in Hillsboro, Oregon
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] $1000 car

2011-08-25 Thread kevin kraly
Wow, I didn't know that Gump was a $120 car!  60K miles out of a $2K total 
investment = double wow!  That's way less than the average car payment for 
average transportation, and a W115 is far from that, IMO.  He served you 
well indeed!


Kevin in Hillsboro, Oregon 



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