Re: [MBZ] Found Your New Wheels :)

2012-10-12 Thread Rolf

Drooled all the way up to :

VEHICLE IS LOCATED NEAR HANNOVER GERMANY AT MY WAREHOUSE


On 10/9/2012 8:33 AM, Dieselhead wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-608-D-Van-Diesel-Classic-RV-Camper-Sprinter-/221133770791?pt=US_Cars_Truckshash=item337c999027#ht_1519wt_1167http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-608-D-Van-Diesel-Classic-RV-Camper-Sprinter-/221133770791?pt=US_Cars_Truckshash=item337c999027#ht_1519wt_1167 





Anybody looking for a camper?
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rusted out catalytic converter, leaking patch pipes

2012-10-12 Thread Rolf

$40 for a test pipe welded in at the local shop?

On 10/8/2012 4:39 PM, Tim C wrote:

On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 4:30 PM, Max Dillonmeadedil...@bellsouth.net  wrote:

Decision time.

You prefer the sound and smell of having done it right, and from prior
comments it seems like you'd rather go the correct route anyway.  $585
seems like a good price, and you were interested enough to look for
it.

I suspect you'd regret passing it up.

Best,
-Tim
(Might make a different choice on his own cars.)

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[MBZ] Like a kid a xmas

2012-10-12 Thread Rolf

Im patiently waiting for my injection pump with 7.5mm elements.

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Re: [MBZ] Like a kid a xmas

2012-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

Rolf wrote:

Im patiently waiting for my injection pump with 7.5mm elements.


From where?

617, 603, or 606?

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rusted out catalytic converter, leaking patch pipes

2012-10-12 Thread Max Dillon
Yeah, unless Obama starts a government hand-out program for MB parts, I'm 
probably going that route.

Anybody know the deal with junkyards not able to legally sell used catalytic 
converters?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300
'87 300TD

Rolf r...@winmutt.com wrote:

$40 for a test pipe welded in at the local shop?

On 10/8/2012 4:39 PM, Tim C wrote:
 On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 4:30 PM, Max Dillonmeadedil...@bellsouth.net
 wrote:
 Decision time.
 You prefer the sound and smell of having done it right, and from
prior
 comments it seems like you'd rather go the correct route anyway. 
$585
 seems like a good price, and you were interested enough to look for
 it.

 I suspect you'd regret passing it up.

 Best,
 -Tim
 (Might make a different choice on his own cars.)

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rusted out catalytic converter, leaking patch pipes

2012-10-12 Thread John Reames
Can't you convince them that it's a resonator or a pre-muffler or something?? 
Everyone knows that catalysts have O2 sensors near them.

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Oct 12, 2012, at 9:54, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Yeah, unless Obama starts a government hand-out program for MB parts, I'm 
 probably going that route.
 
 Anybody know the deal with junkyards not able to legally sell used catalytic 
 converters?
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300
 '87 300TD
 
 Rolf r...@winmutt.com wrote:
 
 $40 for a test pipe welded in at the local shop?
 
 On 10/8/2012 4:39 PM, Tim C wrote:
 On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 4:30 PM, Max Dillonmeadedil...@bellsouth.net
 wrote:
 Decision time.
 You prefer the sound and smell of having done it right, and from
 prior
 comments it seems like you'd rather go the correct route anyway. 
 $585
 seems like a good price, and you were interested enough to look for
 it.
 
 I suspect you'd regret passing it up.
 
 Best,
 -Tim
 (Might make a different choice on his own cars.)
 
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Re: [MBZ] Found Your New Wheels :)

2012-10-12 Thread Jim Cathey

Drooled all the way up to :
VEHICLE IS LOCATED NEAR HANNOVER GERMANY AT MY WAREHOUSE


So?  My Mog was located near Bremerhaven.  Now it's spent
more time on a cruise than _I_ have!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] mbrace2: Time is of the essence

2012-10-12 Thread Jim Cathey

Can I get that on the 79 TD?


Wait a year or two.  There should be plenty of take-outs
from wrecks by then.  Higher than average, I'd say.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT - Converting euro 220v appliance to 120v

2012-10-12 Thread WILTON
Trnsformer ad says it's 500W, 2.3A; 'sounds like output amperage to me - 
220V x 2.3A = 506W (efficiency unk).  Grinder: 1/3 hp (an assumption?) 
746W/3 = 249W.  I think the trnsformer will handle grinder.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2012 10:32 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT - Converting euro 220v appliance to 120v



The grinder is made 110v also, so universal motor strap may be in  place?


Possibly, but high-volume (i.e. relatively low cost) consumer
products tend to be more optimized than that.


I dunno what the thing sounds like - blender or other, but it is
coffee grinder so prolly loud?


Every small coffee grinder I've ever seen, except a hand-cranked one,
is as loud as a political rally.  Universal motors are small and
powerful, but relatively short-lived and loud.  Relatively inexpensive,
too.


Here is a transformer at ebay that might work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Transformer-110v-to-220v-/ 
300790879355?pt=Heavy_Duty_Voltage_Convertershash=item460888947b


Maybe.  Don't know if the 2.3A rating is at 110 or 220V.
Difference between 200+ and 400+ watts.  Your grinder
might need more than that, depending on its electrical
efficiency.


Here is the grinder


$87 shipping?  Not going to end up being all that attractive
a deal, I wouldn't think.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] No start Frosch

2012-10-12 Thread Randy Bennell

Is it running really rich?

Your fuel loss or consumpton and the black oil makes me wonder if it 
is dumping way too much fuel into the engine.


Randy

On 10/10/2012 6:59 PM, clay monroe wrote:

One would think, but I have been keeping an eye on the thing looking for leaks 
and drips while on the creeper for two hours.  Stuck a sheet of cardboard under 
the car where the fuel lines go to see if there are drips that end up on it.  I 
am beginning to suspect that somebody has siphoned my tank and got 5 gallons of 
fuel

clay

On Oct 10, 2012, at 5:03 AM, Max Dillon wrote:


You lost a quarter of a tank?  Massive fuel leak somewhere?
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300
'87 300TD





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Re: [MBZ] OT - Converting euro 220v appliance to 120v

2012-10-12 Thread Randy Bennell
Use a proper 220V plug though so no one plugs in something they ought 
not to.


Friends of ours bought a home that had been occupied by some Asian folks 
previously and fried a new microwave oven the first time they plugged it in.
Seems the previous folks had switched some of the kitchen outlets to 
220V but left the normal outlets in place.


Randy

On 10/10/2012 11:00 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

Wire a receptacle 220 volt.  You'll be feeding the motor 60 Hz, not 50, so it 
will run a little fast, but I don't think that will matter too much in a 
grinder.

We have several Italian appliances from living there, I wired one outlet on the 
kitchen island for 220 so we can use them.  Have a sewing machine, iron, 
electric griddle, cell phone charger, all work fine.



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Re: [MBZ] OT - Converting euro 220v appliance to 120v

2012-10-12 Thread WILTON

'Seems criminal and negligent or, at least, bordering on such.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Converting euro 220v appliance to 120v


Use a proper 220V plug though so no one plugs in something they ought not 
to.


Friends of ours bought a home that had been occupied by some Asian folks 
previously and fried a new microwave oven the first time they plugged it 
in.
Seems the previous folks had switched some of the kitchen outlets to 220V 
but left the normal outlets in place.


Randy

On 10/10/2012 11:00 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
Wire a receptacle 220 volt.  You'll be feeding the motor 60 Hz, not 50, 
so it will run a little fast, but I don't think that will matter too much 
in a grinder.


We have several Italian appliances from living there, I wired one outlet 
on the kitchen island for 220 so we can use them.  Have a sewing machine, 
iron, electric griddle, cell phone charger, all work fine.



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[MBZ] OT - Filterfor coolant?

2012-10-12 Thread Randy Bennell

Does anyone have any ideas on how one might filter coolant on an engine?
I admit I have not done any sort of google search etc. I am just putting 
this out here to see if anyone has encountered such a device or has 
ideas of how one might create such.


The gist of it is that I would like to filter coolant on a boat engine.
I have an inboard outboard that has been run for years with lake water 
pumped through it. - Only fresh water so not an issue of salt water 
corrosion but never-the-less somewhat rusty looking inside.
I would like to install a closed system setup so that the engine uses 
anti-freeze and is cooled by the fresh water going through the heat 
exchanger.
The folks on the boating forum suggest this is not going to work because 
the rust particles from the engine will clog up the heat exchanger passages.

They say it should only be installed on a new engine.
So, my thought is that there must be some fairly simple way to filter 
the water flowing through so that I can trap and remove the rust particles.


There is some space available on a boat so not like trying to fit 
something  under the hood on a car.


Ideas?

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Filterfor coolant?

2012-10-12 Thread dave walton
You can pick up a stainless filter housing on eBay that takes standard
filter cartridges for $100. Don't use plastic.
Any filter media will reduce the flow somewhat. Determine the largest
particle size you want floating through the system and work back from there
to get the flow rate you need. McMaster has a wide variety of filters.

-Dave Walton

On Friday, October 12, 2012, Randy Bennell wrote:

 Does anyone have any ideas on how one might filter coolant on an engine?
 I admit I have not done any sort of google search etc. I am just putting
 this out here to see if anyone has encountered such a device or has ideas
 of how one might create such.

 The gist of it is that I would like to filter coolant on a boat engine.
 I have an inboard outboard that has been run for years with lake water
 pumped through it. - Only fresh water so not an issue of salt water
 corrosion but never-the-less somewhat rusty looking inside.
 I would like to install a closed system setup so that the engine uses
 anti-freeze and is cooled by the fresh water going through the heat
 exchanger.
 The folks on the boating forum suggest this is not going to work because
 the rust particles from the engine will clog up the heat exchanger passages.
 They say it should only be installed on a new engine.
 So, my thought is that there must be some fairly simple way to filter the
 water flowing through so that I can trap and remove the rust particles.

 There is some space available on a boat so not like trying to fit
 something  under the hood on a car.

 Ideas?

 Randy

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Filterfor coolant?

2012-10-12 Thread Dan Penoff
Randy,

I am only familiar with smaller engines that use heat exchangers in
marine applications, but even with them the tubes in the heat
exchanger were easily  1/4 of an inch in diameter at least, so I can't
imagine there bring enough cruft in the engine to plug them up.

As for a coolant filter, I have only seen these on industrial Diesel
engines, and they were more of a means to introduce and maintain DCA
(decavitation additive) than to actually filter the system, as they
were relatively small, the size of a typical spin on oil filter, and
had a minimal amount of coolant flow through them.

I would think that if your coolant is clean and properly mixed, there
would be no issue with converting it to a closed system.

Dan

On Oct 12, 2012, at 11:46 AM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

 Does anyone have any ideas on how one might filter coolant on an engine?
 I admit I have not done any sort of google search etc. I am just putting this 
 out here to see if anyone has encountered such a device or has ideas of how 
 one might create such.

 The gist of it is that I would like to filter coolant on a boat engine.
 I have an inboard outboard that has been run for years with lake water pumped 
 through it. - Only fresh water so not an issue of salt water corrosion but 
 never-the-less somewhat rusty looking inside.
 I would like to install a closed system setup so that the engine uses 
 anti-freeze and is cooled by the fresh water going through the heat exchanger.
 The folks on the boating forum suggest this is not going to work because the 
 rust particles from the engine will clog up the heat exchanger passages.
 They say it should only be installed on a new engine.
 So, my thought is that there must be some fairly simple way to filter the 
 water flowing through so that I can trap and remove the rust particles.

 There is some space available on a boat so not like trying to fit something  
 under the hood on a car.

 Ideas?

 Randy

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Filterfor coolant?

2012-10-12 Thread Randy Bennell

Ok, so what do I search for? stainless steel filter housing?

Randy

On 12/10/2012 10:56 AM, dave walton wrote:

You can pick up a stainless filter housing on eBay that takes standard
filter cartridges for $100. Don't use plastic.
Any filter media will reduce the flow somewhat. Determine the largest
particle size you want floating through the system and work back from there
to get the flow rate you need. McMaster has a wide variety of filters.

-Dave Walton

On Friday, October 12, 2012, Randy Bennell wrote:


Does anyone have any ideas on how one might filter coolant on an engine?
I admit I have not done any sort of google search etc. I am just putting
this out here to see if anyone has encountered such a device or has ideas
of how one might create such.

The gist of it is that I would like to filter coolant on a boat engine.
I have an inboard outboard that has been run for years with lake water
pumped through it. - Only fresh water so not an issue of salt water
corrosion but never-the-less somewhat rusty looking inside.
I would like to install a closed system setup so that the engine uses
anti-freeze and is cooled by the fresh water going through the heat
exchanger.
The folks on the boating forum suggest this is not going to work because
the rust particles from the engine will clog up the heat exchanger passages.
They say it should only be installed on a new engine.
So, my thought is that there must be some fairly simple way to filter the
water flowing through so that I can trap and remove the rust particles.

There is some space available on a boat so not like trying to fit
something  under the hood on a car.

Ideas?

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Filterfor coolant?

2012-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/6845-coolant-filter-install.html

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/270999-coolant-filter-kit.html

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Filterfor coolant?

2012-10-12 Thread Randy Bennell


I would like to think you are correct but I don't want to over heat the 
engine. I am told that is a no-no with these engines.
What I have is an old 165 HP inline 6 cylinder GM engine  - 250 cid. 
Basic GM block used by Mercruiser for a number of years in the 60's and 
70's.


I bought a heat exchanger that I am told was originally used on that 
engine on ebay last winter. It had been retrofitted for  use on a 
smaller inboard engine in a sailboat for a number of years.
The sailboat underwent a bit of a rebuild and at the end of the day they 
installed a new engine with its own cooler setup.
Before that happened, this heat exchanger was cleaned up and was ready 
for re-installation.
I have not taken it apart but I have photos of the inside of it 
somewhere, from when it was cleaned out.


It does look as though it has reasonably large passages through it.

So, the filter idea may only be a temporary thing while I see how much 
gunk is showing up. I wonder if a screen of some sort might be 
sufficient just to see what appears at the outset.
However, as I said, I don't want to ruin the thing. I am told that if 
one overheats this engine the head will warp and it will then need 
extensive work.


My whole reason for wanting to do this change to closed cooling is to 
make a cabin heater more viable. One can run a heater core off of the 
engine like in a car and I am told it is much more effective with a 
closed system vs a raw water system.


For those spring and fall days, it would be nice to have a heater under 
the dash that would blow a bit of warmth back at me.


Randy

On 12/10/2012 10:56 AM, Dan Penoff wrote:

Randy,

I am only familiar with smaller engines that use heat exchangers in
marine applications, but even with them the tubes in the heat
exchanger were easily  1/4 of an inch in diameter at least, so I can't
imagine there bring enough cruft in the engine to plug them up.

As for a coolant filter, I have only seen these on industrial Diesel
engines, and they were more of a means to introduce and maintain DCA
(decavitation additive) than to actually filter the system, as they
were relatively small, the size of a typical spin on oil filter, and
had a minimal amount of coolant flow through them.

I would think that if your coolant is clean and properly mixed, there
would be no issue with converting it to a closed system.

Dan

On Oct 12, 2012, at 11:46 AM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:


Does anyone have any ideas on how one might filter coolant on an engine?
I admit I have not done any sort of google search etc. I am just putting this 
out here to see if anyone has encountered such a device or has ideas of how one 
might create such.

The gist of it is that I would like to filter coolant on a boat engine.
I have an inboard outboard that has been run for years with lake water pumped 
through it. - Only fresh water so not an issue of salt water corrosion but 
never-the-less somewhat rusty looking inside.
I would like to install a closed system setup so that the engine uses 
anti-freeze and is cooled by the fresh water going through the heat exchanger.
The folks on the boating forum suggest this is not going to work because the 
rust particles from the engine will clog up the heat exchanger passages.
They say it should only be installed on a new engine.
So, my thought is that there must be some fairly simple way to filter the water 
flowing through so that I can trap and remove the rust particles.

There is some space available on a boat so not like trying to fit something  
under the hood on a car.

Ideas?

Randy





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Re: [MBZ] OT - Converting euro 220v appliance to 120v

2012-10-12 Thread Tim C
On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 11:36 AM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 'Seems criminal and negligent or, at least, bordering on such.

My inspector checked every outlet fixture.  I thought it seemed like
overkill, but I didn't ask.  Now I know why. :)

That said he probably wouldn't have checked the microwave, if it had been there.

Best,
-Tim

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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT - Converting euro 220v appliance to 120v

2012-10-12 Thread Tim C
On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 11:17 AM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 Trnsformer ad says it's 500W, 2.3A; 'sounds like output amperage to me -
 220V x 2.3A = 506W (efficiency unk).  Grinder: 1/3 hp (an assumption?)
 746W/3 = 249W.  I think the trnsformer will handle grinder.

Noticed primary fuse is 5A, which I think supports this view (?).

FWIW Alex on Banned has confirmed that Italian plugs will fit into Swiss jacks.

Best,
-Tim

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Filterfor coolant?

2012-10-12 Thread Max Dillon
Simple screen would probably work just fine, need a large surface area.  Might 
also install pressure gauges before and after the heat exchanger to measure the 
pressure drop, if the difference in pressure is more than a few pounds, you may 
have a problem.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300
'87 300TD

Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:


I would like to think you are correct but I don't want to over heat the

engine. I am told that is a no-no with these engines.
What I have is an old 165 HP inline 6 cylinder GM engine  - 250 cid. 
Basic GM block used by Mercruiser for a number of years in the 60's and

70's.

I bought a heat exchanger that I am told was originally used on that 
engine on ebay last winter. It had been retrofitted for  use on a 
smaller inboard engine in a sailboat for a number of years.
The sailboat underwent a bit of a rebuild and at the end of the day
they 
installed a new engine with its own cooler setup.
Before that happened, this heat exchanger was cleaned up and was ready 
for re-installation.
I have not taken it apart but I have photos of the inside of it 
somewhere, from when it was cleaned out.

It does look as though it has reasonably large passages through it.

So, the filter idea may only be a temporary thing while I see how much 
gunk is showing up. I wonder if a screen of some sort might be 
sufficient just to see what appears at the outset.
However, as I said, I don't want to ruin the thing. I am told that if 
one overheats this engine the head will warp and it will then need 
extensive work.

My whole reason for wanting to do this change to closed cooling is to 
make a cabin heater more viable. One can run a heater core off of the 
engine like in a car and I am told it is much more effective with a 
closed system vs a raw water system.

For those spring and fall days, it would be nice to have a heater under

the dash that would blow a bit of warmth back at me.

Randy

On 12/10/2012 10:56 AM, Dan Penoff wrote:
 Randy,

 I am only familiar with smaller engines that use heat exchangers in
 marine applications, but even with them the tubes in the heat
 exchanger were easily  1/4 of an inch in diameter at least, so I
can't
 imagine there bring enough cruft in the engine to plug them up.

 As for a coolant filter, I have only seen these on industrial Diesel
 engines, and they were more of a means to introduce and maintain DCA
 (decavitation additive) than to actually filter the system, as they
 were relatively small, the size of a typical spin on oil filter, and
 had a minimal amount of coolant flow through them.

 I would think that if your coolant is clean and properly mixed, there
 would be no issue with converting it to a closed system.

 Dan

 On Oct 12, 2012, at 11:46 AM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
wrote:

 Does anyone have any ideas on how one might filter coolant on an
engine?
 I admit I have not done any sort of google search etc. I am just
putting this out here to see if anyone has encountered such a device or
has ideas of how one might create such.

 The gist of it is that I would like to filter coolant on a boat
engine.
 I have an inboard outboard that has been run for years with lake
water pumped through it. - Only fresh water so not an issue of salt
water corrosion but never-the-less somewhat rusty looking inside.
 I would like to install a closed system setup so that the engine
uses anti-freeze and is cooled by the fresh water going through the
heat exchanger.
 The folks on the boating forum suggest this is not going to work
because the rust particles from the engine will clog up the heat
exchanger passages.
 They say it should only be installed on a new engine.
 So, my thought is that there must be some fairly simple way to
filter the water flowing through so that I can trap and remove the rust
particles.

 There is some space available on a boat so not like trying to fit
something  under the hood on a car.

 Ideas?

 Randy




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Re: [MBZ] OT - Filterfor coolant?

2012-10-12 Thread dblidd
If your boat has not been in salt water, used regularly, and correctly 
winterized there will be some sediment in the bottom of the block but not the 
big flakes you see in a salt water boat. If you are looking at a full FWC kit 
which also runs the antifreeze through the exhaust manifolds, I would replace 
the manifolds, remove the core plugs in the block and blast the coolant 
passages in the block with a pressure washer and not bother with a filter. If 
doing a half system, just do the core plug thing.
Since the antifreeze goes around the outside of the cooling tubes in the heat 
exchanger there is alot of area to clog and it probably will not create a choke 
point.
Your other option would be to use a sea-strainer (usually found on inboards and 
jet boats to catch sand or seaweed in a cleanable basket) inline in front of 
the heat exchanger.

dave

Wa. (the big one)
'77 240d
Looking for a good 300CD project

 --
 
 Message: 10
 Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 10:46:56 -0500
 From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] OT - Filterfor coolant?
 Message-ID: 50783b70.5000...@bennell.ca
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
 
 Does anyone have any ideas on how one might filter coolant on an
 engine?
 I admit I have not done any sort of google search etc. I am just
 putting
 this out here to see if anyone has encountered such a device or has
 ideas of how one might create such.
 
 The gist of it is that I would like to filter coolant on a boat
 engine.
 I have an inboard outboard that has been run for years with lake water
 pumped through it. - Only fresh water so not an issue of salt water
 corrosion but never-the-less somewhat rusty looking inside.
 I would like to install a closed system setup so that the engine uses
 anti-freeze and is cooled by the fresh water going through the heat
 exchanger.
 The folks on the boating forum suggest this is not going to work
 because
 the rust particles from the engine will clog up the heat exchanger
 passages.
 They say it should only be installed on a new engine.
 So, my thought is that there must be some fairly simple way to filter
 the water flowing through so that I can trap and remove the rust
 particles.
 
 There is some space available on a boat so not like trying to fit
 something under the hood on a car.
 
 Ideas?
 
 Randy
 

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Re: [MBZ] Like a kid a xmas

2012-10-12 Thread Rolf
Sweden. 603. Dieselmeken was nice enough to give me a freebie for all 
the business he made off STD.


-Rolf

On 10/12/2012 8:20 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:

Rolf wrote:

Im patiently waiting for my injection pump with 7.5mm elements.


From where?

617, 603, or 606?

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Re: [MBZ] Like a kid a xmas

2012-10-12 Thread Rolf
I should add its set to 105cc delivery. Stock is 70cc.  Turning alda out 
1 turn will give me 125cc. I've been doing some hard research on what is 
need to keep everything behind the engine from falling apart. 2 biggest 
worries are trans and flexdisks. Trans had the smaller diameter yoke and 
my DS has small yoke at front and big one in rear. I am more concerned 
about the front one. Also the transmount, been looking for a poly 
replacement.



Anyone happen to know if the 87 was blessed with the beefier subcarrier?

-Rolf

On 10/12/2012 5:26 PM, Rolf wrote:
Sweden. 603. Dieselmeken was nice enough to give me a freebie for all 
the business he made off STD.


-Rolf

On 10/12/2012 8:20 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:

Rolf wrote:

Im patiently waiting for my injection pump with 7.5mm elements.


From where?

617, 603, or 606?

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Re: [MBZ] No start Frosch

2012-10-12 Thread clay monroe
That is a possibility.

I put the hard top back on last night and tried to drive her to the garage for 
winter storage.  She would not catch.  Fuel is not flowing again.  Tossed the 
car cover on for now.  Will be sending her to the indy next spring for a full 
tune up and resolution of these issues.  I have to get new shoes for her 
anyway.  Hard to find a decent tire, let alone V rated in 14 inch.MBCA 
forums and Tom, from Classic center say the R107 should now be shod in a 15 or 
16.  Yeah, new rims... that will be cost effective.


clay 


1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers







On Oct 12, 2012, at 8:27 AM, Randy Bennell wrote:

 Is it running really rich?
 
 Your fuel loss or consumpton and the black oil makes me wonder if it is 
 dumping way too much fuel into the engine.
 
 Randy
 
 On 10/10/2012 6:59 PM, clay monroe wrote:
 One would think, but I have been keeping an eye on the thing looking for 
 leaks and drips while on the creeper for two hours.  Stuck a sheet of 
 cardboard under the car where the fuel lines go to see if there are drips 
 that end up on it.  I am beginning to suspect that somebody has siphoned my 
 tank and got 5 gallons of fuel
 
 clay
 
 On Oct 10, 2012, at 5:03 AM, Max Dillon wrote:
 
 You lost a quarter of a tank?  Massive fuel leak somewhere?
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300
 '87 300TD
 
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Converting euro 220v appliance to 120v

2012-10-12 Thread Gerry Archer
You could mount a double box in the wall with a box-mount combination 
circuit breaker/GFCI (if they're still avaialble) in one side and a 220v 
(right angle) receptacle in the other.  If you want to plug in more than two 
appliances, then mount a triple box in the wall with two receptacles.  That 
should give you protection against fire and shock.  Some city, county, state 
codes may not allow it, however.

Gerry

If you have an electric stove or oven in the kitchen you have 220V right 
there, just run another outlet off it


That is very much against code, and for a good reason.

The circuit breaker is probably 50A.  If you developed
a short in your weenie little device the circuit (either
in your device/cord, or the wiring to your ghetto plug)
would probably pull enough juice to start a fire.  That's
the reason a household circuit is limited to 20A.  Any
wiring used in such a circuit is stout enough to take
20+A and blow the breaker immediately.  With a 50A
breaker you risk a lot.  If you had fused this tap,
with the fuse _inside_ the 50A plug box, or if you
used 6ga wire from your range plug to a box with a
20A breaker and your ghetto plug in it, then you'd
be OK.

The breakers are sized to prevent fires in the wiring
and walls, and devices.

-- Jim



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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5325 - Release Date: 10/11/12




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Re: [MBZ] OT - Filterfor coolant?

2012-10-12 Thread Scott Ritchey
Look at west marine site:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearch?storeId=11151
langId=-1catalogId=10001pageSize=10beginIndex=0sType=SimpleSearchsearc
hTermScope=3Ns=Most+Popular%7C0keyword=cooling+water+strainer

There are multiple strainers for cooling water.  I doubt a real filter
would pass enough water but these things will catch anything big enough to
harm the engine systems. Most are designed for EZ cleanout.. Examples:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId
=441921catalogId=10001langId=-1storeId=11151storeNum=50632subdeptNum=50
646classNum=50649#.UHie6MWx8tE

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId
=441788catalogId=10001langId=-1storeId=11151storeNum=50632subdeptNum=50
646classNum=50649#.UHie7sWx8tE


-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Randy Bennell
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:57 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Filterfor coolant?

Ok, so what do I search for? stainless steel filter housing?

Randy

On 12/10/2012 10:56 AM, dave walton wrote:
 You can pick up a stainless filter housing on eBay that takes standard
 filter cartridges for $100. Don't use plastic.
 Any filter media will reduce the flow somewhat. Determine the largest
 particle size you want floating through the system and work back from
there
 to get the flow rate you need. McMaster has a wide variety of filters.

 -Dave Walton

 On Friday, October 12, 2012, Randy Bennell wrote:

 Does anyone have any ideas on how one might filter coolant on an engine?
 I admit I have not done any sort of google search etc. I am just putting
 this out here to see if anyone has encountered such a device or has ideas
 of how one might create such.

 The gist of it is that I would like to filter coolant on a boat engine.
 I have an inboard outboard that has been run for years with lake water
 pumped through it. - Only fresh water so not an issue of salt water
 corrosion but never-the-less somewhat rusty looking inside.
 I would like to install a closed system setup so that the engine uses
 anti-freeze and is cooled by the fresh water going through the heat
 exchanger.
 The folks on the boating forum suggest this is not going to work because
 the rust particles from the engine will clog up the heat exchanger
passages.
 They say it should only be installed on a new engine.
 So, my thought is that there must be some fairly simple way to filter the
 water flowing through so that I can trap and remove the rust particles.

 There is some space available on a boat so not like trying to fit
 something  under the hood on a car.

 Ideas?

 Randy

 __**_



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Re: [MBZ] No start Frosch

2012-10-12 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
I was thinking this too, Randy... especially with a D-jet car.  Its
interesting how a car can run with way too much fuel.

Maybe just a stuck cold start valve?  Could be lots of other things too...

The issue is that its dangerous for the engine.  Gas in the oil can ruin an
engine pretty fast if left unaddressed.

Good luck,
Jaime


On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 11:27 AM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

 Is it running really rich?

 Your fuel loss or consumpton and the black oil makes me wonder if it is
 dumping way too much fuel into the engine.

 Randy


 On 10/10/2012 6:59 PM, clay monroe wrote:

 One would think, but I have been keeping an eye on the thing looking for
 leaks and drips while on the creeper for two hours.  Stuck a sheet of
 cardboard under the car where the fuel lines go to see if there are drips
 that end up on it.  I am beginning to suspect that somebody has siphoned my
 tank and got 5 gallons of fuel

 clay

 On Oct 10, 2012, at 5:03 AM, Max Dillon wrote:

  You lost a quarter of a tank?  Massive fuel leak somewhere?
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300
 '87 300TD




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-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] Like a kid a xmas

2012-10-12 Thread Mitch Haley

Rolf wrote:
I should add its set to 105cc delivery. Stock is 70cc.  Turning alda out 
1 turn will give me 125cc. 


So it keeps the ALDA function and you should be able to set the smoke level by 
tuning the ALDA, and it'll ramp up the fuel as boost builds?
I'm not happy with the idea of blowing $4 a gallon fuel out the exhaust while 
waiting for the turbo to spin up.


I was never clear on whether the Myna pumps varied fuel to match boost levels or 
not.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Like a kid a xmas

2012-10-12 Thread Rolf
Well at 125cc there will be lots of smoke... I did.specify nominal increase and 
good idle.

Sent via string from my tin can.

Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

Rolf wrote:
 I should add its set to 105cc delivery. Stock is 70cc.  Turning alda out 
 1 turn will give me 125cc. 

So it keeps the ALDA function and you should be able to set the smoke level by 
tuning the ALDA, and it'll ramp up the fuel as boost builds?
I'm not happy with the idea of blowing $4 a gallon fuel out the exhaust while 
waiting for the turbo to spin up.

I was never clear on whether the Myna pumps varied fuel to match boost levels 
or 
not.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Found Your New Wheels :)

2012-10-12 Thread Dieselhead

Drooled all the way up to :
VEHICLE IS LOCATED NEAR HANNOVER GERMANY AT MY WAREHOUSE


So?  My Mog was located near Bremerhaven.  Now it's spent
more time on a cruise than _I_ have!


-- Jim


My son's 200D has at least 10,000 ocean miles

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Re: [MBZ] mbrace2: Time is of the essence

2012-10-12 Thread Mountain Man
Dieselhead wrote:
 I am sure if you call up the marketing suits at mombusa, they would happily
 custom build a plug in set just for your car.

Enter, Jaime.
Jaime does all that stuff.  Tests it prior to hit market.  He can answer.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT - Converting euro 220v appliance to 120v

2012-10-12 Thread Mountain Man
Tim C  wrote:
 Noticed primary fuse is 5A, which I think supports this view (?).

 FWIW Alex on Banned has confirmed that Italian plugs will fit into Swiss 
 jacks.

Yeah, I saw your banned to Alex.
Thanks Wilton/Tim.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Converting euro 220v appliance to 120v

2012-10-12 Thread Mountain Man
--R wrote:
 Yeah, but it's Chairman Mao we are talking about here, he always has one
 foot in the grave (which he has dug in the back yard) anyway.

 Besides, what is life if you aren't living on the ragged edge?

You know me too well.
I should have done the Red Bull sky drop this week.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] 95 rusted out cat converter

2012-10-12 Thread Ronald Courcy

It is illegal for the salvage yard to sell you a cat for reuse. However they 
can sell you a cat for recycling purposes.  They must cut off both flanges 
and can not identify it as for a specific car. If the yard is at all 
cooperative you could pull one off a car and they could cut off the flanges and 
sell it to you legally for you to extract the precious metals it contains.
There is no law that would prevent you from doing anything you want with the 
cat once it is in your possession. Thanks Ron Courcy
 
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rusted out catalytic converter, leaking patch pipes

2012-10-12 Thread Allan Streib
Rolf r...@winmutt.com writes:

 $40 for a test pipe welded in at the local shop?

A legitimate muffler shop will not weld in a test pipe.  They would get
huge fines if caught removing a cat for a customer.  They might sell you
one, and you can then do with it what you will under your own liability.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD


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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rusted out catalytic converter, leaking patch pipes

2012-10-12 Thread Rick Knoble
Si señor then you go to the illegitimate shop. 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 12, 2012, at 10:44 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 A legitimate muffler shop will not weld in a test pipe.
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[MBZ] Discussed earlier, possibly

2012-10-12 Thread RELNGSON
AllCell Granted U.S. Patent to Prevent Thermal Runaway Propagation in 
Li-ion Batteries
by Staff Writers
Los Angeles CA (SPX) Oct 11, 2012

AllCell Technologies received a new U.S. patent covering the use of phase 
change materials (PCM) to prevent thermal runaway propagation in 
electrochemical devices such as lithium-ion batteries, ultra capacitors, 
and fuel cells. 
The new patent is an important extension of AllCell's intellectual 
property, which already includes U.S. and international patents covering the 
use of 
PCM for thermal management of electrochemical devices.
Through over a decade of research and development, AllCell has developed a 
proprietary composite material composed of a conductive matrix impregnated 
with various PCMs that extends the cycle life of lithium ion cells and can 
prevent the propagation of thermal runaway, a critical step in improving the 
safety of lithium-ion batteries.
Several recent high-profile incidents involving electric vehicle batteries
 have highlighted both the importance of battery safety and thermal 
management as well as the inadequacy of conventional thermal management 
strategies.
Automakers are rapidly realizing that complex liquid cooling systems add 
significant expense, reduce vehicle range, and are prone to leaks or other 
malfunctions that can compromise battery safety and performance. Manufacturers 
of smaller electric vehicles such as electric bicycles, scooters, and mo
torcycles similarly struggle to manage the thermal demands of increasingly 
energy dense batteries with high discharge rates.
AllCell's elegant and passive technology requires no power to operate and 
has no moving parts, paving the way for the industry to improve battery 
performance while simultaneously reducing battery cost.
One of the benefits of passive thermal management is the ability to operate 
even when the vehicle is turned off. Whether protecting car batteries
 parked all day in the scorching Phoenix sun or electric bike batteries baking 
inside a metal case exposed to direct sunlight, AllCell's PCM composite can 
protect the expensive lithium-ion battery cells from overheating, dramatically 
extending battery life.
According to AllCell CEO Said Al-Hallaj, We are very pleased to announce 
this enhancement of our IP position during a period of rapid growth for our 
company. AllCell is excited to contribute to the critical improvements in 
electric vehicle batteries required to transition from today's limited market 
of early adopters to products with true mass market appeal.
Earlier this year AllCell announced the formation of AllCell Automotive, a 
joint venture with Townsend Ventures, LLC, created to commercialize PCM 
technology in automotive applications.
The AllCell Automotive team is already working closely with leading 
automotive OEMs and is developing a new generation of automotive lithium-ion 
batteries with PCM thermal management technology that will be introduced soon.
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Re: [MBZ] Discussed earlier, possibly

2012-10-12 Thread Craig
On Sat, 13 Oct 2012 00:57:33 -0400 (EDT) relng...@aol.com wrote:

I don't recall discussions about this topic before.


 Manufacturers of smaller electric vehicles such as electric bicycles,
 scooters, and mo torcycles similarly struggle to manage the thermal
 demands of increasingly energy dense batteries with high discharge
 rates.
   
 Whether protecting car batteries parked all day in the scorching
 Phoenix sun or electric bike batteries baking inside a metal case
 exposed to direct sunlight, AllCell's PCM composite can protect the
 expensive lithium-ion battery cells from overheating, dramatically
 extending battery life.

One thing I question is how much thermal capacity the material will have.

Baking in the scorching Phoenix sun all day while sitting in a parking
lot and then having to supply high discharge rates to satisfy some lead
foot could certainly exceed the thermal capacity of the material.


Craig

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