I finally got all of mine done last week, couple months after the usual date as
I generally start mowing in March.
Hard to mow when the deck digs into the soil
The only good thing about is the farmer across the corner planted crimson
clover as a cover crop and couldn't get it sprayed to pla
We have had a wet spring here, but nothing like having the water plant flooded
out.
When you get a chance, adjust the rear shoes and I think you will have proper
brakes. They only self-adjust when you are backing up and stopping, so it can
take a very long time for them to self-adjust, and t
Differential pressure switch in the brake proportioning valve (under the truck
somewhere) that is telling you that there is no pressure in the rear circuit --
due to the shoes not contacting the drums most likely.
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You won't have a pedal until you get the rear brakes adjusted. Drum brake
cylinders are pretty big, and unlike disk brakes, the shoes retract completely
every application.
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Hopefully those bees just moved in and will be easy to get back out.
I've had a few cut-outs that turned into nightmares
I greatly prefer catching swarms like my brother and I did this year -- leave
an old hive out and have the bees move in. Much less hassle.
Peter
I've been using a TopSider for oil changes. Much nicer, no worries about
stripped or leaking drain plugs (I never remove them anymore), and it's easier
to handle the oil.
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Classic symptoms of a plugged exhaust.
The old trap catalyst looks like a silver football, located between the rear of
the exhaust manifold and the turbo. The replacement is an insulated pipe about
the same diameter as the manifold.
There is also a catalyst at the end of the downpipe, no reaso
Check the air flow sensor and temperature sensors -- sounds to me as if it's
running in normal warmed up closed loop mode when cold -- just like having the
choke stuck open on a carburetor.
A small vacuum leak can do the same thing, check for cracks in the intake
between the airflow sensor an
Lol, this reminds me of why I never traveled in the winter when I lived in
Sault Ste. Marie -- take a week off and come home to three feet of snow in the
drive and a snowstorm, sidewalks impassible, and at least two hours of digging
to get the car off the street so the snowplow won't bury it at
My guess would be the previous plug installation stripped the hole, and your
problem is a leaking plug. Time for an insert.
Peter
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Before you replace the pump, make sure the check valves are operating and that
you have not cracked plastic section of the main vacuum line. It's pretty
brittle by now
Peter
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Had to replace one on one of my 603's. Not a bad job, but you really have to
do it by feel, it's almost impossible to see anything. Worst "oops" is a leak
if you don't get the gasket in properly.
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Yup. And if you change one make very sure you get the thermostat in properly,
you have to do it by braille unless you take the exhaust manifold and turbo
off
BTDT.
Peter
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Check the air filter housing mounts on the "new" one -- they often break and
cause terrible sounds, but if that's not the issue, I'd agree. Not much point
in raising one of them from the dead at this point.
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Blowing huge clouds of soot out of your diesel was a thing around here, even
had "smokestacks" built into the beds of pickups. Looked like a WWI battleship
at flank speed.
Very stupid idea, quite a few kids burned the exhaust valves off over-fueling,
and at a few thousand each for new heads (n
A failed hand pump will allow air into the lift pump, causing vapor lock.
Replace it and it will start once you get enough fuel into the fill chamber in
the IP.
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Typical failure here is the o-ring on the fuel line at the lift pump. No leaks
unless parked steeply nose down, but parking nose up will allow the fuel to
drain back to the tank in the suction line. Takes forever to pump up as it's
leaking air in.
Also check the condition of the hoses on the
Power steering pulley bolts are usually easy to get to as well, you can turn
the engine with them.
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Standard beer equpiment comes with a regulator to hold gas pressure on the
carbonation keg between zero and 25 psi. Should be easy enough to rig up a
connection to allow you to pressurize the system to 25 psi, let it sit for a
bit, then vent, or to flow gas into the high side and apply suction
I use CO2 for beer, a 10 lb tank is around $45. Should last you the rest of
your life without an issue.
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It takes a very long time to remove the water with a vacuum pump, it's "sticky"
and has a fairly low vapor pressure. If you purge with dry gas first you only
have to get the stuff that stays a gas a room temp out.
The difficulty is that there is no mass movement of molecules in moderate to
hig
Lol, that first one was a joke, perhaps, but the story about using 2-cycle oil
alas, was not.
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Sounds like the idiot my nephew encountered at Auto Zone where he works: Blew
up a fairly new diesel pickup running it with 2-cycle oil..
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Depends on the tire. For low profile tires (18" rims, for instance), use
40-45. Better wear, better handling, and greatly reduced road damage.
I set mine pretty much by the wear profile -- if the inner section is wearing
faster than the edges, it' too hard, if the outer is wearing faster, it's
The "bake to repair" was 2005 to 2007 I think, and was the video chip (also an
issue with anything that chip was used in, it warps when it gets hot).
More likely you have a bad trackpad, I'd replace that before replacing the
whole thing.
Haven't had one apart, but other than fiddly they usually
Before you replace it, check the battery -- when they go bad they swell and put
pressure on the trackpad.
A new battery is cheaper than a new 'book.
Unless it's one of those with a non-replacable battery
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A couple of things strike my very amateur eye here:
First, the handling characteristics of the MAX are VERY different at critical
air speeds, and the potential for the aircraft to "get ahead" of the pilot is
quite real. As I've said before, turbofan engines don't respond instantly at
low throt
Gasoline injection into the manifold doesn't need to be timed accurately --
hence the CIS systems that work so well. Two plungers, each feeding three
cylinders, works just fine with lower cost.
On the other hand, the old 300SL with the "half an airplane engine" engine
required correctly timed
And corned beef with cabbage.
Will take mine out of the fridge and start soaking in a bit, will put it on to
cook around 11 I think.
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I'm no aircraft engineer, but in my experience in other things, this is
strictly a software/sensor issue. Most aircraft have a stall prevention
system, and any aircraft prone to "unrecoverable" stalls like T-tail rear
engine jets have one that will overpower the pilot. However, every pilot mus
The old mechanical injection systems from Bosch were very very similar to the
diesel injection systems, just much lower delivery pressure as they inject into
the intake rather than the combustion chamber in the MB versions -- the
aircraft and original 300 Gullwing inject through the side of the
Mechanical or D-Jet? D-Jet you can put a pressure relief/return line in to
reduce the flow and pressure from any lower pressure FI pump and allow the
regulator in the FI ring to do it's job. There are retrofits available (or
there were when I was looking) for the D-Jet cars. One of the elect
Anybody else getting a strong sense the FAA and Boeing and repeating the Nixon
Administration? Boeing rather the MD, but there isn't really any difference
there
I can remember the late 60's and early 70's when the FAA decided they couldn't
afford to do all the inspections and development over
Corroded connectors or a bad fuel pump relay will do the same thing.
Had this issue with the TE, bad rear fuel pump would cause stalling and
starting issues. Replaced it and all is well. Not really an option on a Finny
though, I'd guess the fuel pumps are getting a bit hard to find.
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White smoke on start-up is unburned fuel going out the pipe. If it started
normally and didn't have a noticeable miss, I'd guess a weak glow plugCould
also be a bad injector or low compression, but both of those give other
symptoms.
Peter
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The difficulty is that a single point failure (flaky attitude sensor in this
case) causes an un-needed actuation and severe nose down pitch without warning
the pilots, who are well aware of what the plane is doing.
Having the "stick" snatched out of your hands by the computer without warning
is
Sounds more like the "handshake behind the barn" days in the early 70's that
resulted in a DC-10 door blowout and the loss of a plane load of passengers.
Secret agreements and sweeping issues under the rug in airliner safety results
in dead passengers, always a bad idea.
If there is something s
So far the only indication is that the plane had altitude problems and hit the
ground at high speed in a dive -- that crater was NOT dug by heavy equipment
and there was no significant post-crash fire, which means the fuel pretty much
completely atomized on impact.
In other words, just about ex
Most phone apps report all your data to Facebook. This is one reason I have a
dumb phone.
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I use Mobil 1 Truck and SUV oil in all my diesels, it's rated for the OM603 and
comes in gallons only.
You need 8 quarts with a filter change.
Make sure you have the correct o-ring for the filter when you change it, any of
the American filters will have the o-ring for the canister for a Ford 9N
The local antique machinery club has a two-stroke diesel gen set out of an old
hospital. Similar setup -- blow torch heater on copper ingots bolted through
the head for pre-heaters, but real injectors.
Don't know if they got it running -- the idea was to power a shop with overhead
belts to run
Coming out is no problem, but we had to modify a ball joint press to get them
in. A big vise and a large (6 or 8 lb) hammer will drive them out just fine.
Going back in, you will need a press that fits inside the knuckle, and most of
them are too large. We ground down a cheap one, then had to
Front or rear?
Severely over-tightened, alas, and hence bent.
If this is a 126, you can pull the cap, use a chisel to unscrew the clamp bolt
on the front wheel bearing, remove the clamp nut, unbolt the caliper and remove
the brake line, then pull wheel, hub, caliper, and all off. You can then
Fuel filter and the tools to change it. One tank of dirty fuel can strand you
a long way from home. BTDT.
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It contains a pressure valve to pressurize the fill chamber on the IP. Not
adjustable so far as I know, but don't replace it with a plain one!
Pete
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Neutral position is where you set the switch. There is a bracket that adjusts
I think.
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Neutral lockout switch contains the contacts for the back-up lights, just one
swtich, one connection. It's on the side of the transmission, prevents
starting in gear AND turns on the back-up lights in reverse.
Peter
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It's doable on the gasser, but on the diesel there just is no way to get a tool
in there to press the bushing in. Maybe if you have a lift, but the minute it
takes to remove and replace the arm is more than worth it.
Reminds me that I need to replace them again on the TE, I have to put the
shi
Take the shift lever off, attempting to replace with the lever on will result
in a chewed up hand. I know, I tried. I always take the lever off these days.
If the tranny mount was mush, your trouble will go away.
If the rubber part of the mount is well above the frame the engine mounts are
g
Very likely a bad transmission mount, the classic symptoms are vibration under
acceleration -- on decel it's shoved down against the carrier, so no thumps.
I'd check the engine mounts too, very like also flat and needing replacement --
you can get excessive vibration on acceleration from those,
In '65 the headlights and speedo would probably be the only things different.
Starting in '67 it would have had to meet California emissions requirements.
Already had the collapsable steering column (and had since 1959 with the
Ponton, possibly earlier!).
Germany didn't have emissions require
I've heard about a few -- typically waste oil will greatly enhance the growth
of "algae" in the tank, resulting in black crap clogging the screen and filters
very quickly -- ran through a few on the "new" 300D because the PO was using a
mixture of WVO, diesel, and bio-diesel.
The real problem i
Benz has for a long time delivered US models in Europe to American purchasers.
Several people I know bought a car for European delivery and took a nice trip
on the difference in price.
My BIL priced an SD for delivery in Germany back in 82 or 83, as he was
stationed in Wiesbaden at the time.
I did indeed intend to say "air filter housing".
Peter
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High oil level can result in foaming since the crank will be splashing the oil
badly, and that usually results in excess oil consumption through the crankcase
breather. Bad enough the oil pressure will drop to next to nothing. Usually
accompanied by large amounts of blue smoke since the oil go
I wish I could hibernate tomorrow! 8F with light snow, just enough salt left
on the roads to make the snow turn to ice when driven on, the commute in the
morning is going to be rotten.
60F by Sunday, what a crazy winter!
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20F and snowing, I'm hibernating until morning, when I get to see if my Golf
TDI starts well at 2F.
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run the glow plugs twice, hold the pedal to the floor, crank til it's running.
Works every time. And it's in the owner's manual
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M117 short stroke. V8.
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It's the lift gate on the wagon that is the known leaker. Never had an issue
with the passenger doors that I know of.
Rear fixed wagon side widows also leak when you get rust in the channels, but
puddles in the third seat footwell are almost always the liftgate gasket,
although the lift gate g
The rear door gasket is a known issue. Replace it while you can still get one!
I need to do this with mine, when parked level or nose down it gets water in
the third seat well, and in the door latch. Parked nose up, even a little,
bone dry.
The gasket leaks around the upper corners, I think.
You need to have the front of the frame verified for straightness. If you just
tore out the upper shock mount, that's easy to fix. If you bent the inner
fender or distorted the upper shock mount, it will take a frame machine to get
it right.
Likely the inner fender is crushed too, and the ins
Lol, I can almost always find things, but it can take a while.
I'm more like a chaos node that and order point
Attention deficit disorder, likely, or just a very very low boredom threshold
and an active mind.
Peter
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Dense cloud cover here, no point. Also going to be about 15F, too cold for
playing outdoors for this old guy!
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The real problem with medical research is that since Reagan cut all the funding
for basic research, the only source of funding is pharmaceutical companies and
for-profit distributors.
The results, of course, are heavily biased toward medical inteventions. Same
way most crop research is conduct
Check with your local phone repair guys, usually some around. They will have a
solder station, which is what is required. A bit of solder paste on the board
and a whiff of hot air and you will be fixed.
Normally cannot be done with a hand iron, and it's risky to use the oven
although I've fix
Turns out that heart disease and cholesterol are "associated", but the linkage
is quite weak, and people with genetically very low serum cholesterol are as
likely to have heart disease as the rest of us.
Coronary artery disease is appearently an inflammetory disease, totally
unrelated to serum
I didn't feel a thing when I had my cardiac catherization a few years ago. I
was asleep for the whole thing, got a big shot of morphine and nitroglycerine
just before Doc did his thing. Brachial artery, too.
It can be VERY painful, my Dad said it was worse than a compound fracture of
his leg.
Sorry to hear that, but at least stents exist and you aren't dead or seriously
disabled!
Get well soon.
Peter
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Get some inexpensive "service weight" vinyl at some place like JoAnne's, they
usually have some odd color stuff in the sale bin. Make patterns from an old
cover if you can lay your hands on one -- it helps quite a bit to take one
apart to see how it's put together, and make a practice set.
I d
We have a 450 acre solar farm going in across the road from my house next year.
All the neighbors are in an uproar, but I see it as certain power any time the
sun is shining, the substation to handle it is about 300 yards from the
house
Between wind, solar, and natural gas fired turbine ge
I have always found MB rotors to be good for two sets of pads, never more.
They are designed for minimum weight for handling purposes, and are inexpensive
and easy to replace.
Measure for minimum thickness, or just do what I do -- when there is a
noticeable lip on the outer edge of the rotor, i
Hmm. I've been driving MBs for twenty years and have made a few hard stops
without ever having had a rotor actually warp. A few minor hard spots, etc,
but never a really measurably bent one. This includes a major test of the
anti-lock brakes on the old 300D when I very narrowly avoided a pile
I would say a combination of minor frost damage and bruising from working with
numb fingers.
I found out how easy it is to bruise fingertips in the cold replacing the water
pump and radiator on my 1972 Toyota Crown in 5F weather many years ago.
When your fingers are numb, it's quite easy to gri
Block heater is in one of the core plugs on the passenger side, but there is
usually NOT a cord attached, it was available separately I believe.
I we didn't have a cord on any of ours.
Peter
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The cure for "warped" rotors after hard stops is to creep slowly forward
immediately after stopping. This keeps the pad contact time on a hot rotor to
the minimum and prevents carburization and material transfer from pad to disk.
not always possible, but minimal brake pressure after stopping
There is a very good diagnostics discussion on BenzWorld, try searching for
mixture adjustment on K-Jet injection systems.
pull a plug or two and see what they look like -- carbon fouled means rich
running, either fuel distributor or O2 sensor
For a quick set of notes, you need a voltmeter and
Sounds like you are doing great!
Beats the hell out of waiting for a week to get into surgery and then six weeks
on crutches for sure.
I'm finally able to get through a whole day of not noticing my ankle hurting
after two years.
Peter
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Yikes!
I learned from the example of one of my graduate school professors tearing an
Achilles tendon playing volleyball that one gives up that sort of stuff at a
certain age unless you want to either keep going with it every week or end up
with serious body damage.
Good luck with the hip repla
I eventually ran a new wire from the fuse box to the headlight, bypassing the
lamp out relay. The "relay" itself can fail due to cracked solder, and since
it was a low beam I just put up with the lamp on the dash when the low beams
were on.
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Having just finished replacing the third wheel bearing on the Golf, I'd guess a
wheel bearing, especially if they are similar to the MB rear bearings.
Since those are double race ball bearings, they don't make the same noise as
tapered rollers when they go, they tend to hum, then growl, then how
Depo is OK, although I've seen one with a broken adjuster link.
I put them on the old 300D some years back, worked fine. A vast improvement
over the DOT at any rate, and not terribly expensive. Bosch or Hella are
better, but hard to find for the 86-93 body.
The Euro lights are vastly superior (you will have to dim your brights for
oncoming traffic, for instance, something I never need to do with the DOT
ones).
If you can find some, the Hella are the best, but get new if possible, even
cheap chinese stuff. Used ones will very likely be quite s
I always have this issue, call and they "fix" it for a while, then it goes
ultra slow again.
Inadequate equipment for the load and someone close to you is watching
streaming movies a lot, probably.
Peter
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DDT has always been available anywhere in the world except the US and Western
Europe. It is very rarely used anymore because it's not effective, most target
insects developed resistance pretty quickly.
Birds, on the other hand, have not developed any, and DDT in fish eating birds
has dropped b
Finally got the new rear wheel bearing in the Golf tonight. Still have to get
a new nut soon, all the FLAPS sell the bearing and hub with a card that says
you don't get a warrenty without a new nut, but don't stock the nut
Still have a lot of tire noise from the cupped inside edge (didn't r
I don't know, my neighbors had a Volvo 240 with 250k on it and what appears to
have been the original belt.
Just have to change them when they are due.
I've had a few cars with them, and the only real issue was a defective
tensioner that flew apart on my Audi Fox in the middle of the night in t
I just had the timing belt replaced in the Golf -- found out a friend has the
tools, but too late for getting it done before my big trip to SC for
Thanksgiving. Pretty expensive, but well worth not trashing the engine on a
trip.
Now I'm waiting to replace a rear wheel bearing until I can find
I didn't always agree with Bush 41, but I've never thought he was anything but
classy. Hard not to respect a WWII Navy pilot.
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Those starters often fail by locking up completely when energized, at least
that's what has happened to all of mine from that era.
If you hear the solenoid engage when you turn the key, the starter motor will
need to be replaced. Not a terrible job, just get a long breaker bar to get
the bolts
I drove back from Columbia, SC on Saturday through Atlanta because there was
freezing rain predicted in Cherokee -- that stretch of I 40 is quite bad enough
in dry, sunny weather when the traffic is heavy, no need to risk trouble.
Some rain, but otherwise a nice drive. If I make the trip again,
Acetylene torch is our usual removal tool. I suspect rolling the car around
with the lug bolts installed but loose will work, but I've never had to do that.
Large hammers, etc, have never done anything for us.
Peter
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I have a couple Sunbeam Radiant Control toasters, one of which still works (but
I don't use it, Mom wants a toaster oven).
Great devices except for the failing temp sensor device -- drop your bread it,
it drops down, and when it's the correct temperature (regardless of time) it
gently rises up.
The connection between the spring link (aka lower control arm) and the wheel
carrier is a bearing, pressed into the wheel carrier. All of mine are dead,
need to replace one more in the wagon and both in the 300D.
When worn the rear wheel can move in and out pivoting on the camber link,
causes
Lower control arm = spring link. MB calls it a spring link.
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Sadly, "BOOM" is almost always a broken rod, although on a 617 a broken cam can
sound similar.
If you are lucky and it's the cam that failed, you have a rebuildable engine.
If it tossed a rod, get another engine.
Peter
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Lol, the "savings" part was running second shift an hour longer in Britain in
the summer without having to use the electric lighting in the factory -- which
was running three shifts.
Imaginary then, imaginary now.
Peter
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Check for a thrown or broken wheel weight too -- they don't always get crimped
on perfectly and the lead can break off.
And, has anyone curbed that wheel recently? A bent rim will give a rotational
speed thump. I know, I have two or three on the Golf. Need to bite the bullet
and buy stock st
My 280 SE 4.5 would audibly knock on midgrade and rattled distressingly on
regular. Premium only for sure, else you burn the spark plugs up, and risk
actual detonation and holes drilled in the pistons on the highway.
My TE is unhappy on midgrade. Toasted plugs, burns the electrodes off.
On
Replace it. Newer master cylinders don't rebuild well as there are no
oversized kits for having them honed as you should -- part of the wear is on
the walls of the cylinder, and new cups won't last all that long.
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