Re: [MBZ] Climate Control Failure Mode

2007-12-26 Thread Fred Johnson
Jim,

On your website you mention that full heat all the
time regardless of temp. settings, buttons pushed or
vehicle speed could be a symptom of monovalve failure.
 

I've been expereiencing this for the past two months
and was wondering what else it might be. I was under
the imporession that a failed monovalve would provide
heat at idle gradually cooling as the vehicle picke up
speed.

History - four years or so ago I replaced the
monovalve insert and the foam tube behind the dash. 

Thank You,
Fred Johnson
Chicago
1977 240D
1983 300SD
1991 A-R 164L
1996 Civic
 


  

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[MBZ] OT Replace the smoke in your wires

2007-12-11 Thread Fred Johnson
Note: forwarded message attached.



  

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[MBZ] 126 Hazard Switch

2007-11-27 Thread Fred Johnson
Not that I've had to use it, but I cannot get the
hazard lught function on my 83 300SD to function. 
I've tried two switches and checked, replaced fuses
with no effect.  Turn the switch on and nothing, and
no turn indicators.  With the swicth in the off
position turn indicators work fine.  Definitely not
the same set-up as the 123.

Anybody have word of wisdom or guidance?

Thanks,
Fred Johnson
Chicago
1977 240D
1983 300SD
1991 A/R 164L
1996 Civic


  

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Re: [MBZ] climate control

2007-10-23 Thread Fred Johnson
Douglas,

By this time you may have already found your issue but
here's my $.02.  First do you get heat at freeway
speeds?  What's the ambient temp. where you live?  I
ask because of my past experience.

When I bought my first SD it had a torn monovalve
diaphram AND the foam connecting tube from HVAC fan to
the cabin temp. sensor in the middle of the dash was
mostly non-existant.  

This allowed me to get heat only when the car was
stopped or at low speed.  When I did get heat it was
at full blast.  As the car sped up the heat would fade
but fan speed was still maxed.

I fixed the monovalve insert as this is a common
malady.  I then got full heat almost all the time,
this was in Oct./Nov.  

Finally pulled the glove box and center vents to get
to the gooey foam tube. Replaced it with foam pipe
insulation and that fixed the problem.  Takes some
manoeuvering through smallish openings and is messy
though.

Monovalve was definitely the easier job that I would
do first.  I would recommend gloves and also cover
anything in old towels that you do not want to get
black goo on if you attack the insulation tube that
connects the cabin temp. sensor to the fan motor.

Fred Johnson
1977 240D
1983 300SD
1991 A/R 164L
1996 Civic

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Re: [MBZ] OT: would you buy a rental car?

2007-10-16 Thread Fred Johnson
My family bought a 78 Mercury Zephyr from Hertz many
years ago.  Lasted 10 years 100k miles w/no problems.
 Got me through college.

Would do it again through a rental car company or
through CarMax or the like as cars come off lease.

Fred Johnson
1977 240D
1983 300SD
1991 A/R 164
1996 Civic


--- Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Couple of people I know have been happy with cars
 they bought from
 Enterprise.  I've also heard horror stories about
 the things people do
 to rental cars.  Any opinions?
 
 Allan
 -- 
 1983 300D
 1966 230
 
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[MBZ] 300SD Fuel Line

2007-09-26 Thread Fred Johnson
In replacing my rear breake line I also found several
leaks in the fuel lines where the rubber buffers are. 
The buffers are great places for dirt and water to be
held in place to corrode these lines over time.

For the past month I've been seraching out fuel lines.
 Mercedes no longer makes them.  None but one
dealership in the area had any idea on how to proceed.
 This morning I spoke to a tech who said I'm not
working with a lot of pressure in the lines because
the fuel pump is on the engine not the fuel tank, so I
should be able to cut out the corroded sections and
replace with fuel hose.

What is the lists collective wisdom on this?  It would
be a lot easier than hunting down the correct size
line and bending to fit.  And so far I've run into
dead end after dead end to finf replacement line.

The good news (OT), I replaced the steering rack
bushing on the Alfa last weekend.  Now steers as
sharply as I thought it should.

Fred Johnson
Chicago
1977 240D
1983 300SD
1991 A/R 164L
1996 Civic


   

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD Fuel Line

2007-09-26 Thread Fred Johnson
Gentlemen, thank you as always for your sage adivice.

Tom, where would I be able to buy Oetiker clamps?

Thanks,

Fred
--- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  You might also consider getting a 25' roll of
 copper tubing, it's 
  easier to
  hand form.
 
 Diesel eats copper.  Don't do this.
 
 -- Jim
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD Fuel Line

2007-09-26 Thread Fred Johnson
I would be able to replace the complete line with
Nylon 6 tubing if I follow your logic.  I'd prefer
this to patching.

  
--- dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 You need a somewhat rigid tubing to hold up to the
 vacuum created by
 the lift pump on the engine. I've had good luck with
 Nylon-6 tubing
 from Mcmaster.com . I use a more flexible tubing to
 join the nylon to
 the existing metal in a butt-joint by covering both
 pieces and using
 spring clamps. I prefer spring clamps because they
 apply constant
 pressure as the metal tubing expands and contracts,
 and as the softer
 tubing deforms over time. When I've used worm-gear
 hose clamps, I've
 had to go back and tighten them up every year or so.
 If you don't
 overlap, use compression fittings.
 
 -Dave Walton
 
 On 9/26/07, Fred Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
  In replacing my rear breake line I also found
 several
  leaks in the fuel lines where the rubber buffers
 are.
  The buffers are great places for dirt and water to
 be
  held in place to corrode these lines over time.
 
  For the past month I've been seraching out fuel
 lines.
   Mercedes no longer makes them.  None but one
  dealership in the area had any idea on how to
 proceed.
   This morning I spoke to a tech who said I'm not
  working with a lot of pressure in the lines
 because
  the fuel pump is on the engine not the fuel tank,
 so I
  should be able to cut out the corroded sections
 and
  replace with fuel hose.
 
  What is the lists collective wisdom on this?  It
 would
  be a lot easier than hunting down the correct size
  line and bending to fit.  And so far I've run into
  dead end after dead end to finf replacement line.
 
  The good news (OT), I replaced the steering rack
  bushing on the Alfa last weekend.  Now steers as
  sharply as I thought it should.
 
  Fred Johnson
  Chicago
  1977 240D
  1983 300SD
  1991 A/R 164L
  1996 Civic
 
 
 
 


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Re: [MBZ] 300SD Fuel Line

2007-09-26 Thread Fred Johnson
Dave,  I pass by a Harbor Freight on the way home and
will look tonight.  I was also thinking about the
overlap thing.  

While I don't do WVO, I do get free 3-5 gallon pails
of vegetable oil occasionally, food service business. 
I add a gallon or two at each fill up to stretch the
$3.20/gal. diesel.  It's enough to leave a nice aroma
and it's free.

Fred


--- dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 You still have to do something with the ends. You
 can order nylon that
 will fit snugly inside the existing flexible tubing
 at the gas tank
 and lift pump - the same way the current metal
 tubing does.
 I use a larger size tubing and did the overlap thing
 with the existing
 hose, rather than fit inside it. I'm running on WVO
 and the larger
 tubing helps the thicker liquid flow better.
 
 I have found the Harbor Freight digital caliper to
 be helpful when
 measuring for tubing size:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47257
 The 6 is on sale for $16 online. If you print the
 page and show it to
 the local store, they will match the price.
 
 -Dave Walton
 
 On 9/26/07, Fred Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
  I would be able to replace the complete line with
  Nylon 6 tubing if I follow your logic.  I'd prefer
  this to patching.
 
 
  --- dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
   You need a somewhat rigid tubing to hold up to
 the
   vacuum created by
   the lift pump on the engine. I've had good luck
 with
   Nylon-6 tubing
   from Mcmaster.com . I use a more flexible tubing
 to
   join the nylon to
   the existing metal in a butt-joint by covering
 both
   pieces and using
   spring clamps. I prefer spring clamps because
 they
   apply constant
   pressure as the metal tubing expands and
 contracts,
   and as the softer
   tubing deforms over time. When I've used
 worm-gear
   hose clamps, I've
   had to go back and tighten them up every year or
 so.
   If you don't
   overlap, use compression fittings.
  
   -Dave Walton
  
   On 9/26/07, Fred Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   wrote:
In replacing my rear breake line I also found
   several
leaks in the fuel lines where the rubber
 buffers
   are.
The buffers are great places for dirt and
 water to
   be
held in place to corrode these lines over
 time.
   
For the past month I've been seraching out
 fuel
   lines.
 Mercedes no longer makes them.  None but one
dealership in the area had any idea on how to
   proceed.
 This morning I spoke to a tech who said I'm
 not
working with a lot of pressure in the lines
   because
the fuel pump is on the engine not the fuel
 tank,
   so I
should be able to cut out the corroded
 sections
   and
replace with fuel hose.
   
What is the lists collective wisdom on this? 
 It
   would
be a lot easier than hunting down the correct
 size
line and bending to fit.  And so far I've run
 into
dead end after dead end to finf replacement
 line.
   
The good news (OT), I replaced the steering
 rack
bushing on the Alfa last weekend.  Now steers
 as
sharply as I thought it should.
   
Fred Johnson
Chicago
1977 240D
1983 300SD
1991 A/R 164L
1996 Civic
   
   
   
   
  
 


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[MBZ] Fuel Line Sourcing

2007-08-07 Thread Fred Johnson
In replacing the rear brake line on the SD I've also
found out that I have a leaking fuel line.

Does anybody have a source for the hard fuel lines
that run from the tank to the front of the car besides
the dealer?

I'll visit one of the local MB dealers at lunch to see
what their availability and price is.

Fred Johnson
Chicago
1977 240D
1981 300SD
1991 A/R 164L
1996 Civic


   

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[MBZ] Brake line removal acrobatics

2007-07-27 Thread Fred Johnson
Still working on the blown out rear brake line on my
300SD.  As a precaution I looked over the lines on my
other vehicles and they look as good as new, even the
240D!!!  Continues to confirm my suspicions that the
SD was not the best looked after or maintained
vehicle.

Does anybody out there have any experience removing
brake lines from these vehicles w/out bending or
otherwise disfiguring the lines?

I've removed all of the brackets that support the rear
brake lines and fuel lines (the acrobatics part). 
Disconnected the line at the M/C and at the rear.  The
line is hanging free.  I am now looking for the magic
way to manoeuver the vehicle and brake line in order
to remove the line.

Thanks,
Fred Johnson
1977 240D
1983 300SD
1991 A/R 164L
1996 Civic




   
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[MBZ] Brake lines adjunct (Strange Days)

2007-07-17 Thread Fred Johnson
BTW I do have some nice Craftsmen made in USA flare
wrenches ;-)

As you all know one of the brake lines split on the SD
on Friday.  Car is still waiting for my time.

Yesterday leaving work the check engine light came on
in the Civic.  Car was semi-driveable as I had no warm
idle. So that car is in the shop waiting for a cat.
converter and O2 sensor.

What am I left driving that has a/c.?  The old
reliable Alfa (!?).  The car that has not let me down
in 3 years of ownership.  

Someone cue the music and Rod Serling!!

Fred Johnson
Chicago
1977 240D
1983 300SD
1991 A/R 164L
1996 Civic


 

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[MBZ] Brake Lines

2007-07-14 Thread Fred Johnson
Does anyone have any experience buying pre formed hard
brake lines or bending their own?  Couldn't find them
on Rusty's site.

Had an experience driving home from work yesterday in
the SD wherein I'll have to replace one of the hard
brake lines for the front brakes.

Thanks,
Fred Johnson
Chicago
1977 240D
1983 300SD
1991 A/R 164L
1996 Civic


  

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Re: [MBZ] Brake Lines

2007-07-14 Thread Fred Johnson
Dan and Rich, thanks for your motivation.  Will have
to go out to the NAPA and get started.

Fred
--- Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 You can get the tube at the auto parts store, and
 the fittings (make 
 sure you put them on before you do the flare!) and
 the flaring and 
 bending tools, which aren't much money (or the auto
 parts store might 
 let you borrow them).  It is not hard to do if you
 just don't bend too 
 far or too fast.  I have made up lines before, the
 hardest part is not 
 cutting it too short!
 
 --R
 
 Fred Johnson wrote:
  Does anyone have any experience buying pre formed
 hard
  brake lines or bending their own?  Couldn't find
 them
  on Rusty's site.
 
  Had an experience driving home from work yesterday
 in
  the SD wherein I'll have to replace one of the
 hard
  brake lines for the front brakes.
 
  Thanks,
  Fred Johnson
  Chicago
  1977 240D
  1983 300SD
  1991 A/R 164L
  1996 Civic
 
 
   


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Re: [MBZ] bad glow plugs

2007-06-27 Thread Fred Johnson
As others have said, something is not quite right.  I
replaced the glow plugs in my 240D after ~100k miles.
These were because of a bad relay.

The SD is still going strong on the plugs that came
with the car 100+k miles ago.

Fred Johnson
Chicago
1977 240D
1983 300SD
1991 A/R 164L
1996 Civic


--- BillR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I just got back from my Indy.  Three of the five new
 glow plugs I had
 installed a few months ago were bad.   Two would not
 heat at all, two were
 fine, and one got warm.  He replaced all five just
 in case.  Is this
 something that happens very often?  The ones I had
 in there before lasted
 quite awhile.
 
 BillR
 
 Jacksonville FL
 
 1981 300SD   291k miles 
 
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[MBZ] Sun Roof RR

2007-05-08 Thread Fred Johnson
The sunroof on the SD is making a groaning sound when
I hit the button to open.  Will have to manually open
through the trunk and do some maintenance.

Does anybody on the list have a good write up on
cleaning and lubricating the rails and anything else
that might need atttention after 26 years?

Thanks,
Fred Johnson
1977 240D
1983 300SD
1991 AR 164L
1996 Civic



 

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Re: [MBZ] Sun Roof RR

2007-05-08 Thread Fred Johnson
I've heard about the famous paste.  I think Rusty
sells them in small tubes.  I think I have more of a
dilemna.  Will look over my 123 paper manuals to see
how much is transferable to a 126.



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Re: [MBZ] Crankshaft Balancer Bolts

2007-04-20 Thread Fred Johnson
Guys,  thanks for all the suggestions.  The cardboard
is an excellent idea.  The last time I did this ~5
years ago I remember using a toothbrush with brake
cleaner to clean the head of the bolts then using
heavy duty gloves because of the dirt oil/grease mess
and the proximity to the radiator.

I've thought about getting a radiator comb several
times but would probably spend way too many hours with
my new toy getting the fins on all the vehicles just
right.



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Re: [MBZ] dexron III/mercon to Mobil 1 ATF transition

2007-03-30 Thread Fred Johnson
Ditto on the better shifting in the morning in the SD,
although I still need to replace the K2(?) spring with
an assembly that I bought a year ago.  Been running it
in both MB's for ~100k miles w/30k change intervals. 
Gives me more peace of mind than anything else in the
240D as I roar down the highway and the trans is
spinning away.

Fred Johnson
Chicago 
1977 240D
1983 300SD
1996 Civic
1991 A-R 164L



 

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Re: [MBZ] Nailing

2006-11-21 Thread Fred Johnson
Does anyone know what model of Racor filter set up to
purchase?  Anyone recently install a Racor filter?

I've had this issue with my 240D since I purchased it
8 1/2 years ago.  120k miles and a new set of
injectors three years ago have not changed a thing.

TIA
Fred Johnson
Chicago
1977 240D
1983 300SD
1991 A-R 164L
1996 Civic

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  
 Based on 120K miles in my '78 300D from new, nailing
 (rat-a-tat) sounds were 
 caused by bad spray patterns which were caused (for
 one thing) by water 
 passing through the nozzles and deforming the holes.
 It's not necessarily a steady 
 sound but more random and very annoying. That's why
 my car had thirteen 
 warranty injector replacements in 50K miles after
 which I installed a Racor water 
 separator which completely ended the problem until I
 sold the car at 120K miles.
 
 There will now be posted several stuff and
 nonsense rebuttals to this and 
 my reply will be that my post is based on personal
 hands-on experience.
 
 BTW, as I recall when my car was around, the
 injector pop-off pressure was 
 1750psi for the 300D whereas the 300SD was 2150psi,
 according to my dealer. And 
 I recall that the turbo version was a much more even
 and slightly quieter 
 combustion sound. I do know that any reasonably
 experienced diesel driver can tell 
 the difference blindfolded.
 
 RLE



 

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Re: [MBZ] 83' 300D vs. 300SD?

2006-11-02 Thread Fred Johnson
Ditto on what Jeff and others have said about the
differences.  I prefer the 123 though.  I prefer the
smaller size and the feeling of driving the car versus
riding along.  For me the 126 makes a great
vacation/highway cruiser.  In most other situations I
find it a little large and unwieldy and drive the 123,
Civic or Alfa.  Systems wise I prefer the manual
heating/AC controls versus the ACC on the 126.  Power
locks, seats and windows are just something else that
can go wrong.  I am the only person that drives my
vehicles so I've set the seat once. Back and forth
from work, it's the 240D.  700 mile roundtrip to Des
Moines, or up to Wisc somewhere then it's the
300SD...and if I'm really feeling lucky,the Alfa.

Fred Johnson
Chicago
1977 240D
1981 300SD
1991 A/R 164L
1996 Civic

--- Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Ahhh, the dfferences are many and varied. The S
 class is a much better
 drive. Quieter and more relaxed, especially on the
 highway!
 
 Between the two, I'd take the S any day! No
 comparison!! I've had both and
 the 123 is not in the same league as the 126.
 (Obviously)
 
 
 
 Jeff Zedic
 Toronto
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Re: [MBZ] Paint Link? Was Food Fight

2006-10-06 Thread Fred Johnson
http://www.towerpaint.com/

Have ordered paint for both MB's.  Was reccomended by Marshall Booth some years 
ago.

Fred Johnson
1977 240D
1983 300SD
1996 Civic
1991 A-R 164L


Peter T. Arnold wrote:
 About twenty posts on food, no reply to the request for  a link to buy
 German Auto paint.  I see nothing has changed here..

 Carnivores have a name for vegetarians,  LUNCH!


 --

 Regards,

 Peter T. Arnold

 1987 300SDL  252KMI
 1995 F-250 PowerChoke  196Kmi
 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
 Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is!

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[MBZ] 83 300SD Light Tube Question

2006-05-25 Thread Fred Johnson
I'm ordering a light tube from Rusty for the left most
center console switch on my 83 300SD but have
forgotten whether that is the switch for the sun roof
or the rear dome light.  Cam someone with a better
memory or an SD at their disposal help me out?

Thanks,
Fred Johnson
Chicago
1977 240D
1983 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] ACC Issues with 300SD

2006-05-23 Thread Fred Johnson
Tried this last night and determined it is the
ignition switch. A huge relief it isn't the ACC unit.

Fred

--- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 Disconnect (and plug) the vacuum hose to the IP
 shutoff
 pod.  Then turn off the car (which will stay
 running)
 and turn it back on.  Is the ACC fine then?  That
 would
 indicate that the ignition switch is going bad,  if
 the
 trip to the Start position is what makes the ACC
 crap
 out.  One can also try teasing the key to see if you
 can make the ACC symptoms change, but I like the
 vacuum hose trick, which gives you full mobility
 to play with on the switch.
 
 The alternative diagnosis is that the motion and
 vibration of the moving vehicle is what's taking out
 the ACC, which might point towards bad solder joints
 inside the pushbutton array, of which I have had
 plenty.  That repair, at least, is cheap.  If you
 are handy and can solder.
 
 -- Jim
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Hard Starting 240D

2006-04-18 Thread Fred Johnson
Thanks for everyones help.  The consensus seems to be
glow plugs first.  Didn't know that glow plugs
degraded.  Therefore I'm off to the local big box
store to get a hair dryer. I'll point it down the
intake tract tomorrow morning and see if there's a
marked difference.  If there's a difference in
starting then it's time to convert. 

I've been putting off converting to the pin style
plugs.  The 300SD has them and starts to well below 0F
so there hasn't been a need to convert the older 240D.
 I'm currently taking my time doing a valve gasket
replacement, valve adjustment and general block
de-oiling of the 300SD.  Ergo the reluctant starting
on the 240D is receiving my attention.

Question about the hot air trick - does a hot air gun
put out too much heat? I'd hate to fire up any oil or
other goop in the intake tract that the valve cover
breather throws in there.

Thanks,
Fred Johnson
1977 240D
1983 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Hard Starting 240D

2006-04-18 Thread Fred Johnson
 Don't waste your money on a hair dryer. Running hot
 air down the intake 
 WON'T tell you if the glow plugs are insufficient!
 Even when the engine 
 is hot and it's, 90 degrees F outside, properly
 working plugs should be 
 allowed to glow for 5-10 seconds for optimal
 starting. Parallel plugs 
 are FAR superior to even brand new PERFECT loop
 plugs.
 
 Low compression is the most common cause in
 situations with all of the 
 symptoms you have, but if heat from the block heater
 (it DOES work 
 doesn't it?) should make starting faster. Heat is
 unlikely to improve a 
 fuel problem.
 
 Marshall
 -- 
 Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
 questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
 turbo 237kmi, '84 
 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
 


Just ordered a conversion kit from Rusty.

Fred

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[MBZ] Hard Starting 240D

2006-04-17 Thread Fred Johnson
Over the past year it is becoming more and more
difficult to start my 240D first thing in the morning.
 Different ambient temperature and plugging in the
block heater have not made a difference.  

I have just recently looked into it and have replaced
the spin on fuel filter, cleaned the in line fuel
filter, replaced the injector fuel return hoses and
adjusted the valves all to no avail.

I will usually glow the car twice then turn it over
between 2-3 minutes for 45 seconds at a time.  While
this is going on a grayish cloud of semi burnt diesel
exits the tail pipe.  I have the new type manual fuel
pump and have pumped between 100-150 times before and
between attempts with no effect.

Now I am seeking the collected wisdom of the list.  

Additional info - 
I have the old style loop glow plugs.  The ones on the
vehicle are at least 7 years and 100K miles old.  Do
these degrade over time?

The starter seems to be turning the engine over fast
enough as it catches eventually, but it may be
original.  The Interstate battery is two years old.  
If it was compression I would think I'd see increased
oil consumption but am still using only 1 quart per
1k miles.  Most of these miles between 75-80 mph.

Any ideas or help would be appreciated, outside of
selling the vehicle.

Thanks,
Fred Johnson
1977 240D
1983 300SD

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[MBZ] Bio-Diesel in Chicago Suburbs

2006-02-24 Thread Fred Johnson
If anyone is out in the western suburbs there is a
Road Ranger at the corner of Roosevelt and Midwest Rd
in Lombard that is selling Bio Diesel.  Don't know if
it's the straight stuff or 80/20.  Price is the same
as regular #2, $1.499.

Fred Johnson
1983 300SD
1977 240D
Chicago

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Re: [MBZ] Bio-Diesel in Chicago Suburbs

2006-02-24 Thread Fred Johnson
Sorry, s/b 2.499.  Still hard to believe the price of
this stuff is above [EMAIL PROTECTED]

--- dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 For $1.499 I'll drive over from Cleveland to fill
 up!
 
 -Dave Walton
 94 S350, 99E300
 
 On 2/24/06, Fred Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
 
  If anyone is out in the western suburbs there is a
  Road Ranger at the corner of Roosevelt and Midwest
 Rd
  in Lombard that is selling Bio Diesel.  Don't know
 if
  it's the straight stuff or 80/20.  Price is the
 same
  as regular #2, $1.499.
 
  Fred Johnson
  1983 300SD
  1977 240D
  Chicago
 
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Re: [MBZ] Here comes an oil thread -- Sorry in advance it is a new topic though its about a gasser

2006-01-11 Thread Fred Johnson
I use the Mobil1 weight suggested by the manuf. in the
Civic and Corolli in my fleet.  Don't know how cold it
gets in Wichita but I feel I get a little insurance
with synthetics approaching 0F in N. Ill.  May be an
old husbands tale about flowing quicker, remaining
viscous and adhering to metal longer after shut down
but it has worked for me.  

The Honda, Toyotas and 300SD start up immediately no
matter how cold.  The 240D and 164L, well they're a
different story for different reasons

Fred Johnson
1977 240D
1983 300SD
1993 Civic
1999 Corolla
1993 Corolla
1991 AR 164L

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Re: [MBZ] Frapper was Re: Here comes an oil thread -- Sorry in advance it is a newtopic though its about a gasser

2006-01-11 Thread Fred Johnson
Will do.  I've been listening lately.  Haven't had any
diesel related issues in quite a while.  Had to
replace the idle cable on the 240D recently but that's
been it.

--- Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Fred,
 Haven't seen you  in a while on here. Please
 sign up for Frapper. I am 
 the only one on here in the Chicagoland area
 currently... 
 http://www.frappr.com/benzbunch
 Rick Knoble
 '85 300 CD
 - Original Message - 
 From: Fred Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 
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[MBZ] Cruise Control Question

2005-10-26 Thread Fred Johnson
On my 83 300SD the cruise control will not hold the
desired speed.  I can use the accelerate function to
get the vehicle up to speed.  I can also keep my foot
on the accelerator and feel the cruise control trying
to hold the vehicle at speed until it eventually gives
up.

Yesterday I cleaned and lubed the cruise control
linkages with ATF.  Also cleaned the #12 fuse block. 
Car had same issues this morning.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Fred Johnson
1977 240D
1983 300SD
Chicago




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Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Question

2005-10-26 Thread Fred Johnson
Chris, Marshall, Dave,

Thanks for the advice.  I'll pull the amplifier
tonight.  I'll also clean the connections.  If the
issue persists, then it's time for a re-build.

Fred



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