FYI, when you order them they are not bent in the proper shapes; you have to do
that yourself!
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Dan
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 26, 2014, at 2:54 PM, John Reames via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
FYI, when you order them they are not bent in the proper shapes; you have to
do that yourself!
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John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
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Drop some UV dye in it, or an oil recharge with some in it.
If it's the evaporator, you'll (eventually) see it around the condensate
drains. Regardless, you'll have a good idea of where to look.
I wouldn't be surprised to find a leaky service valve, especially the high side
one.
-j.
--
John
I used it today to replace a LCA (and the lower ball joint while I was there).
I had no problems getting the discs or center column in (w210, non-4matic). It
compressed smoothly (ball thrust bearings will do that for ya!), and was easy
enough to turn with a normal 1/2 drive ratchet and a 19mm
later.. logic..
On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 7:50 PM, John Reames via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
Have a couple of hard brake lines that rotted/chafed (unsure of which; there
are two in close proximity) right near where they make a hard 90.
They are the ones that go along the driver
I was under the impression that a non-penetrating captive bolt gun was the best
way to ensure that no nervous system tissues entered the bloodstream, with the
idea being to further reduce the chances of BSE entering the food supply...
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Have a couple of hard brake lines that rotted/chafed (unsure of which; there
are two in close proximity) right near where they make a hard 90.
They are the ones that go along the driver side of chassis from front to back
on a 99 w210.
I'm sure the dealer is very proud of them, so my plan is
That Benz isn't that old... It used unibody/subframe construction...
I wonder how fast the driver was going before the wreck... It looks like
excessive speed for road conditions was definitely a factor...
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
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Mobile: +14437915905
On Sep
I ordered a spring compressor from El Paso Tools (alkyracer101).
It arrived in a box sealed with Baum Tools Unlimited paper/filament tape.
Inside the box was a heavy-gauge blow-molded case also bearing Baum Tools
Unlimited labels. Inside the case, the instructions were packed in a ziploc
if this was a back door for
Baum to sell in the consumer space.
Sounds like it is
Dan
On Sep 13, 2014, at 12:19 PM, John Reames via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
I ordered a spring compressor from El Paso Tools (alkyracer101).
It arrived in a box sealed with Baum Tools Unlimited
How about a cheap new vehicle.
Lease a smart ED with the battery assurance plus (BAP).
Note that MBUSA has captured and retained the $7500 federal incentive, but it's
passed on to you anyway.
The finance charges on the lease work out to about 1%.
Anyhow, the official deal is $999 down and
I don't know whether his commute is flat or not. I have a 9.3 mile commute,
which sounds nice and easy, but then you look at a topo map...
In mine, the peak elevation is 397ft, the lowest is 59ft. In the first 2-2.5
miles, there is a single rise of 150ft in 0.2 miles distance, followed by a
I've got an old style Ducane, bought it before Weber killed all the old
aluminum ones off. After 8+ years, I finally had a problem--the rotary igniter
seized. I lit it with a match through the handy holes in the front made for
that purpose, then ordered a new one for something like $15.
I
A lot of portable generators have the white wire tied to the bare/green ground;
that is the grounded conductor is tied to the grounding one.
This makes the generator a separately derived power source, which needs
special treatment.
The underlying issue is that (for safety reasons), the
*Ahem*
Generalizations aren't always correct.
(I drive an electric car; as previously discussed, it is perfect for the needs
I lease it for... I'm definitely not a fruit, although I suppose whether or not
I am a nut might be a matter for debate...)
Btw, it costs me about $4 per hundred miles
Speaking of ID'ing cars... When taking long drives in the wee hours, has anyone
(else) taken to guessing car make/model etc by the head/tail lights?
It does have some practical purpose... I bet that you learn to spot American
SUV's (particularly Ford) and American full-size sedans first...
--
Mainly drive-train stuff is usable; radiator and oil cooler are no good; body
has rust-through in several places, so some body stuff might be usable.
It's in Towson, MD (21204); I thought I would give everyone here a shot at it
before CL or the wrecker.
It was running well until it abruptly
I've gotten a few (yellow freestone and some white ones) from a local farmer...
(And I can always find a place to park close to the stand instead of quite a
ways back...)
It's hard to say which I enjoy more, but you need a paper towel to eat either
variety.
Btw what's this newfangled fad with
I've got a smart ED, and the limited range is fine for me. If I were always
charging it at home (as opposed to at the train station...) I would be paying
less than $4/100mi in electricity.
For the most part it handles like it has sport suspension, and corners
exceptionally well (due to the
I'm really loving my smart ForTwo ED. It's solid and fun.
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
On Aug 11, 2014, at 13:06, Curt Raymond via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:
At the Nissan dealership to drive pickups yesterday I talked him into
Speaking of which, what does everyone use for temporary storage of not so
little parts like bolts and such that you pull off of engines during a repair?
I haven't seen a (metal) #10 coffee can in years.
Likewise, metal coffee cans are a thing of the past... They were great for
washing out
I've an 85 300d; the drivetrain seems to be in good shape but it's got a
mangled hood, left front fender, grille, and light cluster. The front bumper
has a scratch (deep and wide) on the top... Oil cooler and radiator are
perforated.
But it has rust--bad; rotted through back floor in places
I'd be tempted (seeing as I likely have one with a mangled and apparently
rusted out body -- looks like trunk/rear floor pans are also rotted. )
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
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On Aug 4, 2014, at 23:00, Hendrik and Fay via Mercedes
I can't help but wonder how well an ultrasonic cleaner would be at de-gunking
printheads...
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
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On Aug 5, 2014, at 17:39, Curt Raymond via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:
Peter F. posted something on how to
The 210's are a rust bucket.
I have one that the rocker rotted out from the inside at the jack point. (It
will eventually be going, but that's another story.)
Also those om606's have the snap-off glow plugs.
(I was actually torquing the head bolts on the other one and had to stand down;
the
I got in a wreck weds eve...
Trying to figure out whether they'd total it..
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
On Jul 25, 2014, at 14:00, Rick Knoble via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 17:48:19 -0400
To:
Two for two.
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
On Jul 24, 2014, at 21:57, Fmiser via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
John Reames wrote:
I understand the service techs see the v6 models more, and that
they are runflat/def models...
WILTON
in the tire ahead
of time...
Or go back to tubing the tires (I actually did that with the tires on my
pressure washer...)
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
On Jul 25, 2014, at 7:04, Mitch Haley mi...@mitchellhaley.com wrote:
John Reames via Mercedes
spare grilles IIRC and a bunch of palomino
door and rear wagon panels
On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 5:48 PM, John Reames via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
Any ideas what I'd be looking at in parts--
123.133, hood, grille, driver fender, metal behind grille, drivers lamps,
condenser
I understand the service techs see the v6 models more, and that they are
runflat/def models...
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
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On Jul 24, 2014, at 13:59, ned kleinhenz via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:
In my search, last year, for a
State Farm may be selling all BUT the aforementioned parts
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
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On Jul 24, 2014, at 9:31, Meade Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com wrote:
So you may be selling the afore mentioned parts?
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
Any ideas what I'd be looking at in parts--
123.133, hood, grille, driver fender, metal behind grille, drivers lamps,
condenser, radiator, etc.
Strangely enough I have a oil cooler.
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
The originals are easy to get at... Remove the single screw from the grille and
contort it out...
They originals sit in the opening... Special clip-in IIRC.
A 4 aftermarket can probably fit in there if you cut off the mounting ears
(save 1) and make sure it does not have a protrusion (such as
Why not just straight pipe the front?
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
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On Jul 21, 2014, at 13:06, Curt Raymond via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:
At this point its a game to see how long I can keep it going...
Curt
My usual commute is to the train station; one of the 210.025's has BAD rust
issues.
Gonna go get SMART-ed ;)
Any thoughts?
-j.
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
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be nice is a 6kW charger instead of a 3kW one.
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
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On Jul 19, 2014, at 9:08, Meade Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com wrote:
Used or new?
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
On Jul 19, 2014 9:02 AM, John Reames via Mercedes
I suspect an old (240dl) Swedish brick has better aerodynamics (or at least a
lower Cd...
My usual commute to the train station is about 10-12 miles...
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
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On Jul 19, 2014, at 9:21, Mitch Haley via Mercedes
Well that's one way to clean my screen!
:)
--
John W Reames
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On Jul 19, 2014, at 8:28, Meade Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:
A little humor for your Saturday morning...
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
On Saturday, July 19, 2014, John Reames via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:
My usual commute is to the train station; one of the 210.025's has BAD
rust issues.
Gonna go get SMART-ed ;)
Any thoughts?
-j.
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net javascript:;
Home
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John W Reames
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On Jul 19, 2014, at 10:28, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
wrote:
Nothing about ED is SMART! There are medications that can help. But if your
commute lasts longer than 4 hours, see your
commute lasts longer than 4 hours, see your dealer.
--R
On 7/19/14 9:02 AM, John Reames via Mercedes wrote:
My usual commute is to the train station; one of the 210.025's has BAD rust
issues.
Gonna go get SMART-ed ;)
Any thoughts?
-j.
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home
.
Jaime
On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 9:58 AM, John Reames via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
Fuel mileage with the -ed (electric drive) is non-existent. (And they have a
charging station in the garage where I park...)
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
How about using the compound under some 1/2 wonderboard?
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
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On Jul 19, 2014, at 13:36, OK Don via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
We are trying to prepare the 250 sq. ft. concrete floor of what was once an
auto
Smart cars pass me when I was driving 75 on the interstate - can't be
that bad a highway car ---
On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 3:32 PM, John Reames via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
They don't seem to have the B-EV's here.
The smart feels solid.
snip
But where will EV tech
I used Tygon as an experiment last time I changed them...
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John W Reames
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On Jul 18, 2014, at 17:45, Mountain Man via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:
Dealer wants 28 for meter.
Is that the best?
i.e. not china, and good
I got it at a lawnmower supply store because the stealer couldn't get me any on
a Saturday and I could smell diesel fuel inside the car...
You can get it from any small engine shop or online too... I used the yellow
variety.
You can prob get it on amazon for less than $50 for 50ft roll...
--
You should probably use a non-transmitting NIC or a unidirectional ethernet
cable ;)
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
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On Jul 18, 2014, at 13:15, Curt Raymond via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:
HA!
When I worked for the fire alarm
That is the sort that I typeth of.
--
John W Reames
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On Jul 13, 2014, at 19:13, Jim Cathey via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:
I don't recall having to disassemble the clock, that is, remove the hands.
I suppose it depends
I finally had the battery in the 85 300d die ...
It was reading 12.79 volts and I would just get a click (with all lights
shutting off). I don't think that I can legitimately complain about it; it had
the blessed star on it (less expensive than interstate or snears), and I saw
20 Jan 2007 in
Yeah, the hand repaint is a good idea... What vendor paint did you use?
I expect that you'd sort of mask the plastic head to keep it clean?
Soldering isn't any issue, as I've a 7w iron and hands (just barely) steady
enough to use it for some SMD work... but keep that RoHS solder (crap) away
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