[MBZ] Mercedes brake lines

2014-09-26 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
FYI, when you order them they are not bent in the proper shapes; you have to do 
that yourself!

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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes brake lines

2014-09-26 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
Do you end up needing any tools to bend them or are they soft enough to bend by 
hand without crushing?



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 On Sep 26, 2014, at 15:17, Dan Penoff via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Always been that way.
 
 Dan
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Sep 26, 2014, at 2:54 PM, John Reames via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 FYI, when you order them they are not bent in the proper shapes; you have to 
 do that yourself!
 
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Re: [MBZ] AC Leak

2014-09-21 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
Drop some UV dye in it, or an oil recharge with some in it.

If it's the evaporator, you'll (eventually) see it around the condensate 
drains. Regardless, you'll have a good idea of where to look.

I wouldn't be surprised to find a leaky service valve, especially the high side 
one.

-j.

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 On Sep 20, 2014, at 20:55, Dan Penoff via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 I gotta find out where it's leaking first.  I'm just concerned that it's the 
 evaporator, which the leak stuff would just be a temporary fix for anyway
 
 Dan
 
 On Sep 20, 2014, at 8:19 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Unless it is a car you are getting rid of, fix it properly, don't ruin the 
 system with that stuff 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Sep 20, 2014, at 7:13 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Looks like the S500 has a leak.  I dropped Tarek a note to see if the 
 evaporator was ever replaced in the car.  I'm hoping it was
 
 On that subject, I seem to recall someone on the list using some pretty 
 wicked leak repair chemicals on their car with success.  While I'm not at 
 that point just yet, I do want to prepare myself for the possible need to 
 do so.  If anyone recalls what it was or is the party who used it, I would 
 really appreciate hearing about it.
 
 I'm going to see the car tomorrow morning.  It was low last week to the 
 point of not working, and I put about 5-6 ounces of refrigerant into it.  I 
 still had bubbles in the sight glass, but it was cooling.  I didn't want to 
 overcharge it.
 
 I will probably make arrangements for it to go somewhere for a diagnosis, 
 then go from that point based on what they find.
 
 Dan
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[MBZ] Baum/El Paso follow-up

2014-09-20 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I used it today to replace a LCA (and the lower ball joint while I was there). 

I had no problems getting the discs or center column in (w210, non-4matic).  It 
compressed smoothly (ball thrust bearings will do that for ya!), and was easy 
enough to turn with a normal 1/2 drive ratchet and a 19mm socket.  The plates 
locked into position securely and didn't give any hint of wanting to rotate. 

Tomorrow I'm gonna do the lower ball joint on the other side. (I already had 
the LCA replaced...)

One caveat; w210 lower ball joints fit into the knuckle and the LCA in a 
similar manner, except the knuckle side has a locator pin (and the taper can't 
spin on you.). 

That locator pin has a nasty habit of sticking in the knuckle (and breaking off 
there).  It's tough to get a straight shot at it, and to drill it, you really 
should pull off the rotor, hub and dust shield, but I got out a sharp center 
punch and bought some 12 long drill bits (1/8 and 3/16... Couldn't find a 7/32 
anywhere...) a bit of patience and a bit of oil later, and I had a clean hole.  
I slathered the locator pin on the replacement with a bit of anti-seize, in 
case I have to replace the ball joint ever again.



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Re: [MBZ] Double flaring tool recommendations?

2014-09-18 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
Normally, I would agree, but in this instance, the line appears to have one end 
over the rear wheels at the brake hose and runs to the front of the car, near 
the master cylinder.

To further complicate matters, there are several bends with an inside radius of 
approximately 1/4 and the various bends might allow the line to be manipulated 
out if the car were on a lift.

Finally, the lines have an external coating and do not look to have any rust; I 
can clearly see where two lines have rubbed against each other and/or the rest 
of the car, right in the middle of one of those sharp bends.

I'll check the EPC for an idea of how long the lines really are, but I suspect 
that replacing the whole line is a non-starter, if only due to the overall 
length, especially where the passenger side is concerned.

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 On Sep 17, 2014, at 23:39, G Mann g2ma...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I would like to suggest you consider buying pre-made length of hard line 
 which already has double flare with the compression nuts. It is available in 
 a good selection of length at NAPA I'm sure of, other FLAPS should have it as 
 well in metric. Remove the line and use a flexible tape measure [see wifes 
 sewing box for example] to get the total length needed, then select the 
 closest available [slightly longer if shorter is next option] Then use the 
 old line as a pattern to make the bends on the new one. If the new line is a 
 bit longer, fudge on the bends a little so the accumulated bends take up the 
 extra length. 
 
 This way, you have a line with no patches to fail and you only have to make 
 two connections and the retention clips for a good fix.. if the old line has 
 started to fail from rust.. it will fail more later.. logic.. 
 
 On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 7:50 PM, John Reames via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 Have a couple of hard brake lines that rotted/chafed (unsure of which; there 
 are two in close proximity) right near where they make a hard 90.
 
 They are the ones that go along the driver side of chassis from front to 
 back on a 99 w210.
 
 I'm sure the dealer is very proud of them, so my plan is to cut out the bad 
 sections, then fabricate new bends and splice them in.
 
 I have no intention of using compression fittings or single flares; both are 
 known to work loose.
 
 Thanks in advance
  -j.
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT Beef liver (was Re: Carbine Digest, Vol 106, Issue 71)

2014-09-17 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I was under the impression that a non-penetrating captive bolt gun was the best 
way to ensure that no nervous system tissues entered the bloodstream, with the 
idea being to further reduce the chances of BSE entering the food supply...

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 On Sep 17, 2014, at 1:50, Meade Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Recipes?  What is your preferred caliber for harvesting cows?  Calves?
 
 Max Dillon,
 Charleston SC
 Pushing it again, lighten up people!
 
 On Sep 17, 2014 12:18 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 If I had to choose between tripe and beef liver I would really stress out.
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[MBZ] Double flaring tool recommendations?

2014-09-17 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
Have a couple of hard brake lines that rotted/chafed (unsure of which; there 
are two in close proximity) right near where they make a hard 90. 

They are the ones that go along the driver side of chassis from front to back 
on a 99 w210.

I'm sure the dealer is very proud of them, so my plan is to cut out the bad 
sections, then fabricate new bends and splice them in. 

I have no intention of using compression fittings or single flares; both are 
known to work loose.

Thanks in advance
 -j.


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Re: [MBZ] Old crash pics

2014-09-14 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
That Benz isn't that old... It used unibody/subframe construction...

I wonder how fast the driver was going before the wreck... It looks like 
excessive speed for road conditions was definitely a factor...


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 On Sep 14, 2014, at 12:01, Rich Thomas via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Scroll down the comments for some of an old Benz wrapped around a pole.  
 Scary stuff
 
 http://jalopnik.com/crash-photos-from-the-beginning-of-motoring-are-stunnin-1634373883
 --R
 
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[MBZ] FYI eBay spring compressor

2014-09-13 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I ordered a spring compressor from El Paso Tools (alkyracer101).

It arrived in a box sealed with Baum Tools Unlimited paper/filament tape.  
Inside the box was a heavy-gauge blow-molded case also bearing Baum Tools 
Unlimited labels.  Inside the case, the instructions were packed in a ziploc 
bag; the instructions also agreed with the branding. 

I believe that it's safe to presume that the tool is a Baum product, albeit at 
less than 1/4 of Baum's direct sales cost.

The tool itself appears to be of good quality; the center column uses a three 
lug design to hold the lower plate in place and prevent rotation, not unlike 
the Klann model, but I believe that the lugs are larger than the Klann ones.  
The top end has a conical tapered section to hold the top plate in place and 
six lugs, not unlike a spline to prevent rotation.

The center column has ball bearing type thrust bearing.  This explains the note 
that use of power/impact tools would void the warranty, since the ball bearing 
would quickly develop brinelling.  The inner/lower sleeves are prevented from 
rotating by several square lugs that ride in grooves.  The upper section has 
grooves that are cut all the way through, which permits re-lubrication of the 
screw (which has a trapezoidal type thread instead of the square or even 
triangular threads as are found on cheaper units).

The screw itself looks to have a black oxide or similar finish, with the rest 
of the center column looks like it has been parkerized with a black finish.  It 
looks like the top end of the tool is possibly a little larger in diameter than 
the Klann unit that I rented from Rusty a while back (based on my memory of how 
it felt in my hand)

The plates look to be a lighter grey parkerized finish, and are nice and thick; 
there are two different sizes of plates, just like the Klann.  

Overall weight of the tool set in its case is close to 15 lbs.  I definitely 
feel safe in using it; I am almost tempted to replace a a cracked LCA and ball 
joints in a W210 despite the rain, but I am not going to for safety reasons.

I'll let y'all know how well it works after I get those jobs done.  I think 
it's a heck of a good buy at about $150 shipped!

-j. 

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Re: [MBZ] FYI eBay spring compressor

2014-09-13 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I called Baum and asked point-blank.

They said that it was one of their distributors, not them...

But I wouldn't be surprised if the distinction was a legal fiction for 
business, financial and/or liability purposes.

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 On Sep 13, 2014, at 12:27, Dan Penoff via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 That;s interesting, as I was looking at one of these a few weeks ago and 
 noticed that El Paso Tools was in the same ZIP code as Baum (they're not 
 far from me in Sarasota, FL).  I was wondering if this was a back door for 
 Baum to sell in the consumer space.
 
 Sounds like it is
 
 Dan
 
 
 On Sep 13, 2014, at 12:19 PM, John Reames via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 I ordered a spring compressor from El Paso Tools (alkyracer101).
 
 It arrived in a box sealed with Baum Tools Unlimited paper/filament tape.  
 Inside the box was a heavy-gauge blow-molded case also bearing Baum Tools 
 Unlimited labels.  Inside the case, the instructions were packed in a 
 ziploc bag; the instructions also agreed with the branding. 
 
 I believe that it's safe to presume that the tool is a Baum product, albeit 
 at less than 1/4 of Baum's direct sales cost.
 
 The tool itself appears to be of good quality; the center column uses a 
 three lug design to hold the lower plate in place and prevent rotation, not 
 unlike the Klann model, but I believe that the lugs are larger than the 
 Klann ones.  The top end has a conical tapered section to hold the top plate 
 in place and six lugs, not unlike a spline to prevent rotation.
 
 The center column has ball bearing type thrust bearing.  This explains the 
 note that use of power/impact tools would void the warranty, since the ball 
 bearing would quickly develop brinelling.  The inner/lower sleeves are 
 prevented from rotating by several square lugs that ride in grooves.  The 
 upper section has grooves that are cut all the way through, which permits 
 re-lubrication of the screw (which has a trapezoidal type thread instead of 
 the square or even triangular threads as are found on cheaper units).
 
 The screw itself looks to have a black oxide or similar finish, with the 
 rest of the center column looks like it has been parkerized with a black 
 finish.  It looks like the top end of the tool is possibly a little larger 
 in diameter than the Klann unit that I rented from Rusty a while back (based 
 on my memory of how it felt in my hand)
 
 The plates look to be a lighter grey parkerized finish, and are nice and 
 thick; there are two different sizes of plates, just like the Klann.  
 
 Overall weight of the tool set in its case is close to 15 lbs.  I definitely 
 feel safe in using it; I am almost tempted to replace a a cracked LCA and 
 ball joints in a W210 despite the rain, but I am not going to for safety 
 reasons.
 
 I'll let y'all know how well it works after I get those jobs done.  I think 
 it's a heck of a good buy at about $150 shipped!
 
 -j. 
 
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 Mobile: +14437915905
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Re: [MBZ] Testing Prius

2014-09-12 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
How about a cheap new vehicle.

Lease a smart ED with the battery assurance plus (BAP).

Note that MBUSA has captured and retained the $7500 federal incentive, but it's 
passed on to you anyway.

The finance charges on the lease work out to about 1%.

Anyhow, the official deal is $999 down and $139/mo for 36 months, with 30k 
miles over the life of the lease.

In Maryland, with taxes, tags, destination fee, etc, it's $3250 down (but it 
qualifies for a $2200 rebate from MD MVA) and $145/mo.

-j.

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 On Sep 11, 2014, at 10:59, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Other than a Prius, what is the cheapest used electric car I can get for my
 15 mile RT commute?
 
 On Thu, Sep 11, 2014 at 10:34 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Yeah right, I've got a bridge to sell you.
 
 Nobody I know with a Prius that drives an extensive highway commute gets
 45mpg, 35-40 is the norm.
 
 -Curt
 
 
 
 From: archer75--- via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net; Mercedes Discussion List 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2014 10:23 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Testing Prius
 
 
 Prius get 40 to 45 mpg minimum on the highway.  Plug-in Prius gets 95 mpg
 combined city and highway.
 http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymodel/2012_Toyota_Prius.shtml
 Gerry
 
 On Thu, 11 Sep 2014 08:46:20 -0500
 Peter Frederick via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 A Prius for me would be a problem, I do way too much open road
 driving, where they get 22mpg.  Takes a lot of gasoline to haul that
 huge battery down the highway for half an hour with no regenerative
 braking.
 
 They do great in town, but not so good long distance.
 
 My uncle likes his, bought it when they first came out, but he hasn't
 driven outside suburban conditions for decades.
 
 Peter
 
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 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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Re: [MBZ] commuting by bicycle (was: Re: Testing Prius)

2014-09-12 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I don't know whether his commute is flat or not.  I have a 9.3 mile commute, 
which sounds nice and easy, but then you look at a topo map...

In mine, the peak elevation is 397ft, the lowest is 59ft.  In the first 2-2.5 
miles, there is a single rise of 150ft in 0.2 miles distance, followed by a 
drop of 75ft in 0.1 miles, followed by a rise of 75ft in 0.1 miles. The rest of 
the morning commute doesn't have any rises over about 55ft, and is basically 
downhill to the end at 62ft of elevation. A nice relaxed 9.3 mile bike ride.

BTW, If driving an electric car is drinking the [green] Kool-Aid (not to be 
confused with flavoraid of Jonestown fame), then at least the smart ED is 
proper German [green] Kool-Aid.  (And for bonus points, 
http://www.forbes.com/pictures/ehmk45mgef/1-smart-fortwo-electric-drive/ ... 
For those times when you really want to annoy people with a greener-than-thou 
attitude.)


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 On Sep 11, 2014, at 17:01, ernest breakfield via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 just ride easier.
that kind of distance is an easy twiddle of the pedals; i do further than 
 that in work clothes frequently (albeit not in a full suit), even when i have 
 meetings, and don't arrive significantly sweatier or any less presentable 
 than i usually am,...
 
 
 cheers!
 e
 
 On 11/Sep/14 10:39, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:
 Nah, I'd get too sweaty.
 
 On Thu, Sep 11, 2014 at 1:36 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 I hadn't noticed the RT when I read the post originally. With that in mind
 a bicycle is indeed the absolute best choice. Considering where Andrew is
 he'd easily get 8 months of riding in each year. If you're worried about
 being sweaty in the morning get one of those electric assist bikes.
 
 -Curt
 
 
 
  From: Rich Thomas via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com; Mercedes Discussion List 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2014 1:32 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Testing Prius
 
 
 Bike!
 
 --R
 
 
 
 
 
 On 9/11/14 10:59 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:
 Other than a Prius, what is the cheapest used electric car I can get for
 my
 15 mile RT commute?
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT propane burners

2014-09-12 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I've got an old style Ducane, bought it before Weber killed all the old 
aluminum ones off.  After 8+ years, I finally had a problem--the rotary igniter 
seized.  I lit it with a match through the handy holes in the front made for 
that purpose, then ordered a new one for something like $15.

I suppose I will need to get new ceramic pyramids in a couple of more years...

Admittedly the paint is a little rough on the outside; when it gets too bad I 
will probably strip it and use some high temp black paint on it. Also, the 
upper racks are plain steel and are getting rusty, so they will eventually 
fail, but are OK for now. 

The only real maintenance I do to it is to pull it apart before the first 
grilling of the season and ensure that the critters that may have used it in 
the winter are fully evicted... I also wash it down at that time.  The original 
stainless grates and the original stainless burners are still fine.

Otherwise, I let it run for 10 mins before and after each grilling, then hit it 
with a wire brush.

I do make use of a smoke box, and can keep the temperature steady as low as 
225, and have used it to smoke pork shoulders and other roasts.

When it finally dies, I will probably get some kind of kamado, like a BGE...

Anyhow, if you can find one (like on CL), it might be worth investigating.  I 
think they are the 123's of gas grills.


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 On Sep 12, 2014, at 10:50, Rich Thomas via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Well, actually I did intend to use them.  Thought my son would, he was living 
 in a Philly row house that had a deck on the roof but I think all they did 
 was drink beer up there so he never got it out. And we used to go to the 
 beach all the time and cook there, but here we can't drive on the beach so 
 that has been a limiting factor.  I have 2 old Char-broils, both nice 
 aluminum bodies but cheap burners, I had bought one for my dad and had one 
 for ages, I got his when I cleaned out their stuff, it had not been used much 
 but the burners were rusting like on mine.  Easy enough to find, but $20 or 
 $30 every few years...
 
 My kids can deal with them when they have to clean out all my sh...tuff.
 
 --R
 
 
 
 On 9/12/14 10:32 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:
 You sound like my wife its such a great deal we should buy it! even though 
 we don't need it and will never use it...
 
 -Curt
 
 
 *From:* Rich Thomas via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 *To:* mercedes@okiebenz.com
 *Sent:* Friday, September 12, 2014 10:23 AM
 *Subject:* Re: [MBZ] OT propane burners
 
 I was at Lowes one day 3 or 4 years ago, they were having a parking lot
 sale cleaning out a lot of random stuff.  They had 2 portable SS grills
 new in boxes, were like $100 originally, marked down to $20. I bought
 both of them just because, gave one to my son who never used it, so I
 got that back.  Both still in the garage as I have not had occasion to
 use them, but for that deal...
 
 --R
 
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Re: [MBZ] Generator doesn't generate

2014-09-12 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
A lot of portable generators have the white wire tied to the bare/green ground; 
that is the grounded conductor is tied to the grounding one. 

This makes the generator a separately derived power source, which needs 
special treatment.  

The underlying issue is that (for safety reasons), the grounded and grounding 
conductors can only be tied at one point, and that point is just after your 
main disconnect, which is usually your main panel.  If you notice, any 
subpanels have the tie removed (as it should).

There are two possible ways to correctly handle this.  

One is to have a subpanel with a three pole two position disconnect.  Both 
poles and the white (neutral) would need to be switched.  One position would 
connect to a feed from the main panel, the other would need to connect to the 
generator.  This method would require a dedicated grounding rod to be connected 
to the generator.

The other, and simpler method is to disconnect the tie between the grounded and 
grounding conductors in the generator circuitry (if possible).  No additional 
ground rod is needed.  To be truly correct, you would still need to use either 
a two pole two position disconnect type switch (without switching the 
neutral), or more properly to use a separate feed breaker for the generator 
input (using a breaker that is appropriately rated for the generator!) and a 
panel faceplate that physically prevents both the breaker on the feed from the 
main panel and the feed from the breaker from being on at the same time.

In either case, the input to the house from the generator should accept  the 
receptacle end of an extension cord so as to prevent any attempts to use the 
input as a normal circuit.

(Don'tcha love code compliance?)

You'll probably want to verify the above with a local electrician, but based 
upon my limited understanding of the code as a layperson, the above methods 
should be largely correct.

YMMV, IANAL, and all the usual disclaimers...
-j.

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 On Sep 12, 2014, at 11:38, Dan Penoff via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 I'm not sure why they would have a 120/240 socket without the genres to being 
 wired that way.
 
 If you have the cover off the junction box it would be easy enough to check.
 
 The generator is a four lead machine, so there will be four large wires 
 coming out typically labeled 1,2,3 4. 1 and 2 are one stator winding, 3 and 
 4 are another.
 
 If they are connected in parallel, the generator is wired for straight 120v. 
 If they are wired in series and the common connection between the two is 
 grounded and/or tied to the neutral, it's a 120/240v setup.
 
 Dan
 
 On Sep 12, 2014, at 10:41 AM, Mitch Haley mi...@mitchellhaley.com wrote:
 
 One last question.
 If my four pole twistlock outlet is labeled 120v/240v, is there any need to 
 test the generator, or is it safe to just assume you can power a 120v/240v 
 breaker box with it? (I've heard that some generators don't have a solid 
 neutral that splits the 240v outlet into two safe 120v halves, and the way 
 to test it is to try to run a 120v light bulb off one leg of the 240v outlet)
 
 Mitch.
 
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Re: [MBZ] Testing Prius and changing subjects

2014-09-10 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
*Ahem*

Generalizations aren't always correct.

(I drive an electric car; as previously discussed, it is perfect for the needs 
I lease it for... I'm definitely not a fruit, although I suppose whether or not 
I am a nut might be a matter for debate...)

Btw, it costs me about $4 per hundred miles in energy costs; the average 
consumption in the first 720 miles, including my learning how to optimize my 
driving, and some driving by those who haven't figured out the magic of 
regenerative braking, is 3.5 mi/kWh. I am regularly getting 3.9-4.3 mi/kWh 
these days. The estimated range is 80-85mi (EPA is 63). I can't complain about 
it at all, especially being able to park and squeeze through impossible spots!

I'll still take one of the W210.025's for any long trip or where there is need 
for more than 2 seats.

OB MB content: The electric car is a smart ED.
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 On Sep 10, 2014, at 14:02, clay via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 those electro cars are owned by fruits and nuts
 
 On Sep 10, 2014, at 8:42 AM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes wrote:
 
 Let me suggest that apples and peaches have little to do with a Prius.
 
 RB
 
 On 09/09/2014 10:48 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:
 I'm sure there is at least one heritage and heirloom apple site on the 
 internet, with pictures.
 
 You can indeed identify your tree by the apples.
 
 My boss up in Canada had some trees up the hill behind the house that I 
 think were SnowQueen or Famouse (sp) -- one of the original named apples 
 from ether England or France.  The house was originally built before the 
 American Revolution  (Sailor's Encampment on St. Joseph's Island, Ontario), 
 and I suspect from the condition and appearent age of the trees, they had 
 been there since the place was built.
 
 Bright but darkish red skin with pronounced red streaks in the flesh, 
 small, and the best tasting apples I've ever eaten.
 
 Peter
 
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Re: [MBZ] Prius

2014-09-09 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
Speaking of ID'ing cars... When taking long drives in the wee hours, has anyone 
(else) taken to guessing car make/model etc by the head/tail lights?

It does have some practical purpose... I bet that you learn to spot American 
SUV's (particularly Ford) and American full-size sedans first...


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 On Sep 9, 2014, at 3:36, Gerald L Bailey  via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Dimitri wrote:
 Priapism.
 
 Gerry wrote:
 If I buy a Prius I'll put a Mercedes star and a 300D insignia on it so people 
 will think it's just another brain fart from Mercedes designers in Germany.  
 Few people can identify a car by it's shape. 
 Gerry
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[MBZ] FYI 85 123.133 for sale; usable for parts

2014-09-08 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
Mainly drive-train stuff is usable; radiator and oil cooler are no good; body 
has rust-through in several places, so some body stuff might be usable.

It's in Towson, MD (21204); I thought I would give everyone here a shot at it 
before CL or the wrecker.

It was running well until it abruptly stopped, mangling the front end.

-j

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Re: [MBZ] Testing Prius

2014-09-08 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I've gotten a few (yellow freestone and some white ones) from a local farmer... 
(And I can always find a place to park close to the stand instead of quite a 
ways back...)

It's hard to say which I enjoy more, but you need a paper towel to eat either 
variety.

Btw what's this newfangled fad with donut peaches?

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 On Sep 8, 2014, at 18:14, Rich Thomas via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 SC grows more peaches (the fruit kind) than GA, and a bunch more varieties 
 too.  Right now I am getting some large freestones that are very sweet and 
 tasty.  The different varieties seem to come in at different times.
 
 Wilton is a riot.
 
 --R
 
 
 On 9/8/14 5:55 PM, WILTON via Mercedes wrote:
 'Saw some mighty fine-looking GA peaches when we lived in Warner Robins - 
 the fruit was mighty good, too.  ;)
 One of 'em was our babysitter, who lived across the street - Miss GA, 1968 
 or '69.
 
 Wilton
 
 - Original Message - From: Gary Hurst via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net; Mercedes 
 Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Monday, September 08, 2014 5:47 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Testing Prius
 
 
 the best peaches i've seen are on the GA/SC border area.  new jersey also
 has great peaches that aren't talked about enough.
 
 i'd rather an SC peach than a GA peach as i am more confident an SC peach
 will come from this region
 
 
 On Mon, Sep 8, 2014 at 5:41 PM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 I go across the road and get fresh SC peaches.  0.5 mile round trip, a bit
 over 3 minutes
 
 --R
 
 
 On 9/8/14 4:46 PM, clay via Mercedes wrote:
 
 SWMBA came down from AK to get her household effects.  She also wanted to
 do her annual peach canning session.  I figured out the fruit stand over
 the mountains was open fairly early, so I did the 200 mile trip to get her
 three boxes.   A bit over three hours before breakfast, and I had fresh
 fruit on my corn flakes.
 
 
 
 clay
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Testing Prius

2014-09-06 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I've got a smart ED, and the limited range is fine for me.  If I were always 
charging it at home (as opposed to at the train station...) I would be paying 
less than $4/100mi in electricity.

For the most part it handles like it has sport suspension, and corners 
exceptionally well (due to the battery pack being under the floorpan), but it 
can be rough on dips/potholes and speed bumps.  I believe it would be possible 
to get serious air time off of one of the traffic calming speed humps... Time 
for a General Wee paint job/wrap? (See http://facebook.com/generalwee for a 
photo...)

But it is totally impractical for any long drive... And absolutely perfect as a 
runabout.

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 On Sep 5, 2014, at 0:30, Gary Hurst via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 49 mpg!  wow
 
 i rented a kia soul recently and really liked it
 
 
 On Fri, Sep 5, 2014 at 12:02 AM, Archer75--- via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Rented a Prius for 24 hours yesterday since I'd never driven one. Handling
 was very good, engine very quiet, 49 mpg for mixed road and city driving.
 Instrumentation and controls were straightforward and visibility was
 remarkable; rear view mirrors were surprisingly effective.  Combined with
 its excellent repair record during the first 8 or 10 years, it would be a
 good investment.
 
 That said, I wouldn't buy one for one principal reason:  It rides rough
 and there seems to be little cushioning by the seat; you feel every bump.
 My old Beetles rode better.  A Mercedes seat would help but that might be
 difficult or impossible to install.
 
 My reasons for buying a new or late model car are exceptional fuel economy
 and reliability on long trips; something the Prius would satisfy; but being
 pounded on rough roads for hours at a time would be unpleasant and tiring.
 
 Gerry..who might just drive his old Mercedes on long trips
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Sacrilege

2014-08-12 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I'm really loving my smart ForTwo ED.  It's solid and fun.

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 On Aug 11, 2014, at 13:06, Curt Raymond via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 At the Nissan dealership to drive pickups yesterday I talked him into letting 
 us drive the Nissan Leaf electric car. I know you old bastards all hate 
 anything new and different but you need to go out and try one.
 Yes its small but the seating area is about the same as my Jetta.
 No its not tinny or cheap feeling.
 Yes its VERY quiet.
 Its not slow, about the same as my Jetta.
 100 mile rated range, the kid at the dealership has one and says 80 is more 
 likely. I enjoyed watching the range meter count up while coasting. We went 6 
 miles on 3 miles of capacity.
 
 If I could get my employer to put in a charging station I'd seriously 
 consider one...
 
 -Curt
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Re: [MBZ] OT - storing small parts

2014-08-11 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
Speaking of which, what does everyone use for temporary storage of not so 
little parts like bolts and such that you pull off of engines during a repair?  
I haven't seen a (metal) #10 coffee can in years.

Likewise, metal coffee cans are a thing of the past... They were great for 
washing out bearings and such.

For larger parts, I take a gallon can (like from paint thinner, etc), cut most 
of a side out and then fold the edges under to make it halfway safe.

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 On Aug 11, 2014, at 12:42, Craig via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 12:09:55 -0400 Rich Thomas via Mercedes
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Get a bunch of those little baggies like the dope dealers use
 
 --R
 
 
 On 8/11/14 11:30 AM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes wrote:
 I believe that Lee Valley has small stainless steel canisters.
 
 My wife likes SmartBalance margarine. I use those containers for various
 things, although they (even the small ones) are not as small as 35 mm
 film containers (of which I have a few).
 
 
 Craig
 
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[MBZ] What's the list policy on for sale stuff?

2014-08-08 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I've an 85 300d; the drivetrain seems to be in good shape but it's got a 
mangled hood, left front fender, grille, and light cluster. The front bumper 
has a scratch (deep and wide) on the top... Oil cooler and radiator are 
perforated.

But it has rust--bad; rotted through back floor in places and the trunk is 
pretty rusted through; rust is showing at the juncture of the rear quarter 
panel and the  The brake rotors are crap, forget about A/C, the rear window 
regulators are the usual sad condition, the exhaust is rotted out, the rims 
have the usual curb rash, cruise amp needs a rebuild, the trunk lid has a 
couple of reverse (from the inside) dents, one rear door check is dead (but the 
parts are likely in the door). Its not quite chicken wagon grade.

As I said, the drive train seems good (I haven't checked stretch recently, but 
it's been getting M1 for at least the past 6 years.)  I recently re-did the 
automatic antenna (the adjustable height one, starting with an ultrasonic 
cleaning), and the tires are Michelin pilots; I think they are in decent 
condition (I think they are MXM and V rated for the stiffer sidewalls...). I 
think the doors are in decent condition with respect to rust.

I'm not parting it out; make an offer (Kaleb?), BAT and take it away.  The 
location is 21204.



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Re: [MBZ] Nice W108 Rolling Chassis

2014-08-07 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I'd be tempted (seeing as I likely have one with a mangled and apparently 
rusted out body -- looks like trunk/rear floor pans are also rotted. )

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 On Aug 4, 2014, at 23:00, Hendrik and Fay via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 What?? Nobody has piped up with the OM conversion?
 You lot are getting sloppy.
 
 Hendrik
 who really really needs to get off the computer
 
 On 05/08/14 04:28, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:
 That is a steal.  Lots of good drive trains lying around.
 
 
 On Mon, Aug 4, 2014 at 2:47 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Just waiting for that small block Chebby:
 
 
 http://www.benzworld.org/forums/sale-wanted-trade-giveaway/2102545-fs-1969-280se-w108.html#post9687825
 
 Dan
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT printers

2014-08-06 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I can't help but wonder how well an ultrasonic cleaner would be at de-gunking 
printheads...

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 On Aug 5, 2014, at 17:39, Curt Raymond via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Peter F. posted something on how to fix them awhile ago. I have an Epson that 
 won't go so I saved it off.
 
 Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2014 23:32:56 -0500
 From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Testing apple times
 Message-ID: e7d8117d-40ae-4932-81bd-1eaccda63...@earthlink.net
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
 
 Here are some tips for cleaning Epson printer heads (I've done more  
 than a few, just finished up reviving an old R800 head for use in an  
 R2880).
 
 First, the dye inks do NOT dry out in the printer.  They become very  
 viscous, but do not dry.  Pigment inks do indeed dry down, but are  
 readily resuspended.
 
 Second, cleaning cycles are only good for removing air, they will NOT  
 fix plugs, and paradoxically, make things worse by applying a vacuum  
 to the whole head.  When the head is moved off the seal, gumming ink  
 results in a vacuum still inside, and air is sucked up from the  
 bottom, preventing the ink from being fired.
 
 Third, the clogs from sitting unused are almost always ink collecting  
 on the bottom of the head and plugging the nozzles.  You can suck in  
 through the print head forever, and if you don't remove the collected  
 grunge it will not print.  It DOES drip ink all over, but the droplets  
 will not fire onto the paper.
 
 To clean one in this condition:
 
 Install cartridges filled with ink -- aftermarkets with third party  
 ink is a best choice, you may use quite a bit and Epson cartridges are  
 expensive for cleaning.  If you want, once you get it cleared out you  
 can switch back.
 
 Turn the printer on and press the ink cartridge button.  Once the  
 carriage parks in the cartridge replacement station, unplug the  
 printer WITHOUT turning it off.  This leaves the carriage free to move  
 by hand.
 
 Fold a paper towel to fit in the channel the printhead travels in over  
 the paper.  It needs to be thick enough to actually touch the  
 prinheatd but thin enough to push the printhead over.  Saturate the  
 paper towel with Windex or other spray glass cleaner.  I'm not sure I  
 would use 409, it might be too strong.  Lay the towel in the channel  
 and wipe the printhead over it.  Likely it will instantly turn black  
 with gummy ink.  Remove the towel and replace with a fresh one,  
 adjusting thickness as necessary to gently wipe the bottom of the  
 printhead until you get obvious traces of the correct ink colors.
 
 Get a spray bottle of windex or other glass cleaner and carefully fill  
 the sponge and seal of the cartridge cappping station.  Use a dry  
 paper towel to blot up the dissolved ink until the station is mostly  
 clean.  Wipe down the rubber seal, make sure it is not gummy with  
 dried ink.
 
 Fill the sponge in the capping station with Windex and push the  
 carriage over it.  Briefly plug the printer in until the carriage  
 drops onto the seal and unplug it again.  You don't want the pump to  
 suck the Windex out, you want to soak the bottom of the head.  Leave  
 it at least a couple hours.  Overnight is better.
 
 Next day plug the printer in and turn it on.  It should do a quick  
 cleaning cycle.  Print a nozzle check.  If you are really lucky, you  
 will get at least most of the nozzles firing.  Ignore the fact that  
 the ink colors are likely wrong, you have been mixing the ink with  
 cleaner and it will wick up into the nozzle chambers randomly.
 
 If you have a decent number of clear nozzles, print a purge page  
 (marruttusa.com has a selection).  By the end of the page, you should  
 be able to tell if you have decent ink flow or not.  Drips of ink onto  
 the page means you have Windex in the nozzles, it causes ink  to  
 leak.  This is not a big issue a this point.
 
 Print another nozzle check. Should be better.  If not, do a clean  
 cycle but unplug the printer when the wiper blade is up -- it's beside  
 the capping station, watch for the printer to flip it up to wipe the  
 printhead.  Crap built up on the wiper simply plugs the nozzles by  
 wiping gummy dried ink into them, hardly a way to clear them.  Wipe it  
 down with windex, make sure it's quite clean.
 
 Plug it back in and do one clean cycle, then print a nozzle check.  
 With some luck, a dye printer will be working pretty well by now.  
 Pigment printers require more work, usually.
 
 If a couple cycles of soaking and printing purge pages doesn't do the  
 trick, you will have to find some syringes and plastic tubing that  
 will fit over the spikes the cartridges connect to on the printhead.  
 push the ink button and unplug the printer when the carriage is free.  
 Remove the 

Re: [MBZ] Newer Mercedes Diesel

2014-07-27 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
The 210's are a rust bucket. 
I have one that the rocker rotted out from the inside at the jack point. (It 
will eventually be going, but that's another story.)

Also those om606's have the snap-off glow plugs. 

(I was actually torquing the head bolts on the other one and had to stand down; 
the #~]^\!| Mercedes socket (bit) sheared off in one of the bolts.  I have 6 
more to finish the last step on.

(Yes I lubed the threads and under the heads of the bolts... I actually used 
M1. I take the empties and let them drip out for my oil can when doing 
changes)


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 On Jul 25, 2014, at 16:56, Mitch Haley via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 clay via Mercedes wrote:
 Sounds about as rare as Unicorns.
 A CDI benz should fit the bill fine.  Most of the other diesel cars 
 available in USA are going to be junk or worse as used examples.  My cousin 
 sold VW, and loved them fresh off the lot.  He was less than impressed with 
 what showed up in trades or how rare it was that one would meet CPO 
 requirements.  His opinion was Avoid At All Cost.
 
 Yeah, unless I find a $1500 special like Curt is driving, I don't want an old 
 TDI. I saw a 'field find' older Jetta TDI on CL this spring, had way over 
 200k mi on it, surrounded by unmowed grass. His starting price was something 
 like $3500 or $3800, and I don't think I ever saw him ask less than $3k for 
 it.
 
 Unfortunately, it seems like a 10 year old CDI has as big a premium over a 
 e320 as a TDI has over a plain VW. And the rare turbo W210s don't seem to be 
 in any hurry to go under $5k for a decent one, more like 7-8k most of the 
 time and with pretty big odometers.
 
 Mitch.
 
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Re: [MBZ] W123 parts

2014-07-26 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I got in a wreck weds eve...

Trying to figure out whether they'd total it..

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On Jul 25, 2014, at 14:00, Rick Knoble via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
wrote:

 Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 17:48:19 -0400
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] W123 parts
 From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 
 Any ideas what I'd be looking at in parts--
 123.133, hood, grille, driver fender, metal behind grille, drivers lamps, 
 condenser, radiator, etc.
 
 Strangely enough I have a oil cooler.
 
 
 Are you looking to sell said parts or purchase? 
 I know someone asked already, but I don't recall the answer...
 And I could use said parts for I wrecked one I own...
 
 Rick
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 211 to buy?

2014-07-25 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
Two for two.

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On Jul 24, 2014, at 21:57, Fmiser via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 John Reames wrote:
 
 I understand the service techs see the v6 models more, and that
 they are runflat/def models...
 
 WILTON wrote:
 
 runflat/def?
 
 I'm Guessing DEF means Diesel Exhaust Fluid - or Blutech.
 Runflat I suppose refers to no spare tire as the installed tires
 are run-flat models.
 
 But I'm just guessing...
 
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Re: [MBZ] 211 to buy?

2014-07-25 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
No bluetec has a spare to my knowledge; all of them need the aqueous urea 
injection system (50 state compliance?) 

I suppose it makes sense to steal the spare tire area for the tank; it makes 
little sense for MB to design a chassis with yet another area for a large-ish 
tank...

Also don't the bluetecs have an expensive-ish diesel particulate filter that is 
essentially a consumable?

As far as run-flats, I'd hope they also shipped with a smart type inflator and 
goo-injector system to (attempt) to seal a punctured tire...

I also wonder if it would make any sense to just toss slime in the tire ahead 
of time...

Or go back to tubing the tires (I actually did that with the tires on my 
pressure washer...)

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 On Jul 25, 2014, at 7:04, Mitch Haley mi...@mitchellhaley.com wrote:
 
 John Reames via Mercedes wrote:
 Two for two.
 
 So the pee tank is where the spare belongs on a W211?
 Does the 212 have a spare tire?
 
 Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W123 parts

2014-07-24 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I was asking the group in general; I suspect I may be contributing to the 
availability of parts soon :/

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 On Jul 23, 2014, at 22:45, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 If you're asking me, I have two spare grilles IIRC and a bunch of palomino 
 door and rear wagon panels 
 
 
 On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 5:48 PM, John Reames via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 Any ideas what I'd be looking at in parts--
 123.133, hood, grille, driver fender, metal behind grille, drivers lamps, 
 condenser, radiator, etc.
 
 Strangely enough I have a oil cooler.
 
 --
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 jream...@verizon.net
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 Mobile: +14437915905
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Re: [MBZ] 211 to buy?

2014-07-24 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I understand the service techs see the v6 models more, and that they are 
runflat/def models...

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 On Jul 24, 2014, at 13:59, ned kleinhenz via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 In my search, last year,  for a CDI, I found mostly 2005 model year
 available, with a few of the almost identical 2006's also around.   These
 straight 6 models were also made in 2004 and probably earlier.  But I'm not
 sure the CDI's were available in North America before 2005.
 
 In 2007 through 2009 they went to the Blue-Tech V-6 engine, which are
 supposed to be very nice, but certainly more expensive.
 
 The straight six's of 2005-06 seem bullet-proof and powerful.  But this car
 also has SBC brakes, which is an electronically controlled braking system
 of controversial reliability.  The post 2007's have a more conventional
 braking system.  I remember the Chrysler affiliation ending in 2006.
 
 I bought a 2006 CDI, with 100k mi, last October.  So far I'm really glad I
 bought it.  It is the nicest and by far the fasted MB diesel I've owned in
 my 30 years of driving 123 and 124 diesels.  I often get better than 40 mpg
 on highway.  And the electronic brakes are amazingly effective.  So far, in
 25k+ miles, I've had no problems.  I've owned Chryslers before, and this MB
 has done nothing Chrysler like to me yet.
 
 I did a fair amount of research before buying one.  Found the gasoline
 versions of the W211 were plagued with engine failures and other problems
 causing prices noticeably lower than the diesel models.  But almost every
 consumer who reviewed their diesel loved it.
 
 I'm sure YMMV.
 Just my $0.02 worth,
 Ned Kleinhenz
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Re: [MBZ] W123 parts

2014-07-24 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
State Farm may be selling all BUT the aforementioned parts

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 On Jul 24, 2014, at 9:31, Meade Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 So you may be selling the afore mentioned parts?
 
 Max Dillon,
 Charleston SC
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[MBZ] W123 parts

2014-07-23 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
Any ideas what I'd be looking at in parts--
123.133, hood, grille, driver fender, metal behind grille, drivers lamps, 
condenser, radiator, etc.

Strangely enough I have a oil cooler.

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Re: [MBZ] W123 front speakers

2014-07-22 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
The originals are easy to get at... Remove the single screw from the grille and 
contort it out...

They originals sit in the opening... Special clip-in IIRC.

A 4 aftermarket can probably fit in there if you cut off the mounting ears 
(save 1) and make sure it does not have a protrusion (such as a 2-way) above 
the rim...

You CAN mount new ones underneath, but be careful of the eyeball vents; you 
will have to disassemble them and could break them (twisting the body with 
respect to the front ring seems to get them out relatively undamaged).

Going for under mount, you might want to keep a unit or so in your type/rh 
factor handy, especially if your hands aren't small...

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 On Jul 22, 2014, at 12:25, Rich Thomas via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Those are pretty hard to get at but doable.  I think the originals are some 
 particular size known only to gnomes in the Black Forest. I think (I can't 
 remember now for sure) I put some new ones in the TD, took a lot of 
 contortions, or maybe I did the contortions then decided it wasn't worth it.  
 They are fairly small as I recall, maybe 2 or 3 inches.  someone else 
 probably has better info and could contradict my experience, which was soon 
 after I got the car and probably pre-list.
 
 --R
 
 
 On 7/22/14 11:33 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:
 The front speakers are shot on the 1983 300TD.
 
 How wasy is it to R/R the front speakers?  Anybody have any good used ones
 sitting on a shelf?  Is it possible to purchase a pair of new or NOS
 speakers that fit exactly without rewiring?
 
 Andrew
 Who listens exclusively to classical music when he drives his German
 machine.  (Bach is das best accompaniment to the turbodiesel engine noise)
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Re: [MBZ] Welding again

2014-07-21 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
Why not just straight pipe the front?

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 On Jul 21, 2014, at 13:06, Curt Raymond via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 At this point its a game to see how long I can keep it going...
 
 Curt
 
 
 
 From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
 To: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com; Mercedes Discussion List 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 Sent: Monday, July 21, 2014 1:01 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Welding again
 
 
 Sounds like it is about time to just replace the exhaust
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 
 
 
 On Jul 21, 2014, at 11:45 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Found the exhaust pipe had split on my '84 190D again, this is the pipe from 
 the exhaust manifold to the first muffler. I've repaired it twice already, 
 this time the break was in a new spot. 
 Somebody suggested I weld a piece of new exhaust pipe over the break and 
 thats what I did. It made the repair a lot quicker. Of course I had to add a 
 bunch of little pieces to fix holes I created trying to weld the thin metal. 
 Overall one of my better welding jobs.
 I'm getting good at this, the whole job only took about 2 hours.
 
 -Curt
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[MBZ] Branching out in the MB family

2014-07-19 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
My usual commute is to the train station; one of the 210.025's has BAD rust 
issues. 

Gonna go get SMART-ed ;) 

Any thoughts?

-j.

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Re: [MBZ] Branching out in the MB family

2014-07-19 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I understand the -ed's can be had on lease for sub-150/month; that includes the 
battery protection that's $80/month on a purchased one.

I wouldn't expect to go more than 60 miles before having an overnight wait...

I expect lead time will be a couple of months at least.

The one thing that WOULD be nice is a 6kW charger instead of a 3kW one.

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 On Jul 19, 2014, at 9:08, Meade Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Used or new?
 
 Max Dillon,
 Charleston SC
 On Jul 19, 2014 9:02 AM, John Reames via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 My usual commute is to the train station; one of the 210.025's has BAD rust 
 issues.
 
 Gonna go get SMART-ed ;)
 
 Any thoughts?
 
 -j.
 
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Re: [MBZ] Branching out in the MB family

2014-07-19 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I suspect an old (240dl) Swedish brick has better aerodynamics (or at least a 
lower Cd...

My usual commute to the train station is about 10-12 miles...

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 On Jul 19, 2014, at 9:21, Mitch Haley via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:
 Do not expect to take long trips in a Smart -- my brother's BIL drove one 
 from Karlsruhe to Berlin a few years ago just to see.  He took the train 
 home, those tiny tires and very short wheelbase result in constant jouncing. 
  If it's miserable on a short trip (by American standards) it's too bouncy 
 for me to drive to work!
 
 I always wondered why the hwy mpg stinks for such a small car. I guess they 
 see it as a city car and the gearing is short to help discourage highway 
 driving?
 
 Mitch.
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT Senior Traffic Stop

2014-07-19 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
Well that's one way to clean my screen!

:)

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 On Jul 19, 2014, at 8:28, Meade Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 A little humor for your Saturday morning...
 
 Max Dillon,
 Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] Branching out in the MB family

2014-07-19 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
Fuel mileage with the -ed (electric drive) is non-existent. (And they have a 
charging station in the garage where I park...)

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 On Jul 19, 2014, at 9:46, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 I would not get a smart. They are very very small and really do not get all 
 that good fuel mileage
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Jul 19, 2014, at 8:17 AM, Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 The new smart was just announced... It might be worth while to wait!
 
 Jaime
 
 
 On Saturday, July 19, 2014, John Reames via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 wrote:
 
 My usual commute is to the train station; one of the 210.025's has BAD
 rust issues.
 
 Gonna go get SMART-ed ;)
 
 Any thoughts?
 
 -j.
 
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Re: [MBZ] Branching out in the MB family

2014-07-19 Thread John Reames via Mercedes


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 On Jul 19, 2014, at 10:28, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net 
 wrote:
 
 Nothing about ED is SMART!  There are medications that can help. But if your 
 commute lasts longer than 4 hours, see your dealer.

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Re: [MBZ] Branching out in the MB family

2014-07-19 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
Okay I think my phone suffered an error between the touchscreen and the lawn 
chair...

Anyhow, I was going to comment that courtesy of Amtrak and the Maryland Amateur 
Railroad Club (MARC henceforth), I've had the pleasure of a commuter train ride 
that left Baltimore at 0550 and pulled into DC at 0945...

The ticketing agents were no help :P

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 On Jul 19, 2014, at 10:28, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net 
 wrote:
 
 Nothing about ED is SMART!  There are medications that can help. But if your 
 commute lasts longer than 4 hours, see your dealer.
 
 --R
 
 
 On 7/19/14 9:02 AM, John Reames via Mercedes wrote:
 My usual commute is to the train station; one of the 210.025's has BAD rust 
 issues.
 
 Gonna go get SMART-ed ;)
 
 Any thoughts?
 
 -j.
 
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Re: [MBZ] Branching out in the MB family

2014-07-19 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
They don't seem to have the B-EV's here.

The smart feels solid.

Downpayment would be $3250 or so, $143.80/month for 36 mos, and Maryland will 
send you a credit for $2,200 ($125/kWh capacity * 17.6kWh...)  that's stupidly 
cheap to rent/lease!

MBUSA retains ownership of the battery and gets the $7500 federal tax credit. 
(You get the glider and rent the battery).

If you opt NOT to go the rent-a-battery route (no battery assurance plus, then 
it's $3759 down and $370 a month...), but you get a $7500 tax credit from the 
Feds... The big difference is the RV at end of lease; $6695 for no-BAP, $13929 
for BAP...

Lease is based on 10k/yr/30k on lease, but there is a certain challenge 
associated with going more than 10k/yr with a car that gets 80 or so miles on a 
8hr (240V)/16hr (120V) charge...

Outright purchase is $25,750 and BAP adds $80/month...

But where will EV tech be in 3 years, and will anyone want a 3yr old EV in 3yrs?

In my specific case I'm looking for something to take me to and from the train 
station and maybe some around town driving... And maybe raise awareness...
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 On Jul 19, 2014, at 14:00, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Oh yeah, I missed this part about the ED...  I've driven one briefly...  not 
 long enough to form an opinion.
 
 Have you considered the new B class EV?  I've drive that much more... very 
 nice car.  It has the benefits of a back seat, storage space, and it goes 
 like hell.  I was really impressed.  I forget the calculations exactly, but I 
 determined my commute would cost a fraction of what it normally would with a 
 gas car.  My commute is 45 miles each way... a charger on each end means lots 
 of flexibility and no range concerns.
 
 Jaime
 
 
 
 On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 9:58 AM, John Reames via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 Fuel mileage with the -ed (electric drive) is non-existent. (And they have a 
 charging station in the garage where I park...)
 
 --
 John W Reames
 jream...@verizon.net
 Home: +14106646986
 Mobile: +14437915905
 
  On Jul 19, 2014, at 9:46, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
  mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
  I would not get a smart. They are very very small and really do not get 
  all that good fuel mileage
 
  Sent from my iPhone
 
  On Jul 19, 2014, at 8:17 AM, Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes 
  mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
  The new smart was just announced... It might be worth while to wait!
 
  Jaime
 
 
  On Saturday, July 19, 2014, John Reames via Mercedes 
  mercedes@okiebenz.com
  wrote:
 
  My usual commute is to the train station; one of the 210.025's has BAD
  rust issues.
 
  Gonna go get SMART-ed ;)
 
  Any thoughts?
 
  -j.
 
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  jream...@verizon.net javascript:;
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  Mobile: +14437915905
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Re: [MBZ] OT - tile floors

2014-07-19 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
How about using the compound under some 1/2 wonderboard?

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 On Jul 19, 2014, at 13:36, OK Don via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 We are trying to prepare the 250 sq. ft. concrete floor of what was once an
 auto shop (that repaired a few MB's - MB content) for 18 square ceramic
 tiles. The concrete is not all that level or smooth. We poured eight bags
 of self leveling underlayment on it and improved some areas, made others
 worse.
 
 The instructions I read/watched all used a ½ electric drill to mix the 50
 lb. bag of cement like stuff into 5 qts/liters of water. I literally burnt
 up the Harbor Freight ½ drill on the fifth bag, switched to an old fixed
 speed 3/8th  drill, pulsing it to finish. I think we weren't able to keep
 mixing and pouring fast enough to keep up with the drying of the previous
 pour.
 
 I'm considering using our home owner sized cement mixer, but wondered who
 has BTDT, and been successful?
 
 Also, this cement mixer has a 24 long barrel that is 19 at the base and
 16 at the throat. How many bags of sakrete should it be able to mix at
 once? If two 80 lb bags, should I be able to mix three 50 lb bags of self
 leveling underlayment at once???
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Re: [MBZ] Branching out in the MB family

2014-07-19 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
The ed version is limited to about 80mph... But still :)

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 On Jul 19, 2014, at 16:48, OK Don via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Leasing an E-Smart sounds like a good fit for your mission profile. I've
 had Smart cars pass me when I was driving 75 on the interstate - can't be
 that bad a highway car ---
 
 
 On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 3:32 PM, John Reames via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 They don't seem to have the B-EV's here.
 
 The smart feels solid.
 
 snip
 
 
 But where will EV tech be in 3 years, and will anyone want a 3yr old EV in
 3yrs?
 
 In my specific case I'm looking for something to take me to and from the
 train station and maybe some around town driving... And maybe raise
 awareness...
 --
 John W Reames
 
 
 -- 
 OK Don
 
 NSA: The only branch of government that actually listens to US citizens!
 
 There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
 learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
 for themselves.
 
 WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
 2013 F150, 18 mpg
 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] W123 diesel injector return hose

2014-07-18 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I used Tygon as an experiment last time I changed them...


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 On Jul 18, 2014, at 17:45, Mountain Man via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Dealer wants 28 for meter.
 Is that the best?
 i.e. not china, and good quality?
 Has anyone tried alternative non braid covered alternatives?
 mao
 
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Re: [MBZ] W123 diesel injector return hose

2014-07-18 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I got it at a lawnmower supply store because the stealer couldn't get me any on 
a Saturday and I could smell diesel fuel inside the car...

You can get it from any small engine shop or online too... I used the yellow 
variety. 

You can prob get it on amazon for less than $50 for 50ft roll...

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 On Jul 18, 2014, at 18:12, Mountain Man via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 John wrote:
 I used Tygon as an experiment last time I changed them...
 
 Tell me more about Tygon, please.
 Where did you purchase it?
 Did it work as well as the MB stuff?
 Is it cost competitive at 28 per meter dealer cost?
 Thanks.
 mao
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Anyone for Dropbox?

2014-07-18 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
You should probably use a non-transmitting NIC or a unidirectional ethernet 
cable ;)



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 On Jul 18, 2014, at 13:15, Curt Raymond via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 HA!
 
 When I worked for the fire alarm company I was just starting to play with 
 Linux and managed to get it working on an old laptop. I was also just 
 starting to learn about networking and found a pretty cool packet sniffer. I 
 installed said sniffer, plugged it into the corporate network in one of the 
 classrooms, sniffed around a little but didn't see anything exciting so put 
 the laptop back in my office (the video editing suite really) and hung around 
 talking with some friends in the classroom.
 About 15 minutes go by and a guy from corporate IT shows up counting ports. 
 He wouldn't say what he was up to but I had a pretty good idea. Later I found 
 a pallet of those laptops which the company was throwing away. I made up a 
 bunch of linux systems that would boot and sniff packets on a timer. I set 
 them to lead the IT guys on a merry chase around our 1 million square foot 
 facility. Hilarity ensued. Especially when he got to the one on the catwalk 
 over the panel baking oven on the manufacturing floor. They put network drops 
 in the darnedest places...
 
 -Curt
 
 
 
 From: Dan Penoff via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Mitch Haley mi...@mitchellhaley.com; Mercedes Discussion List 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 Sent: Friday, July 18, 2014 1:03 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Anyone for Dropbox?
 
 
 Head of corporate security at Kohler was a neighbor of mine. Former Air Force 
 MP with the typical control and superiority complexes that many of these guys 
 have (he was short, too.)
 
 One time when he got loaded at a neighborhood party he started mouthing off 
 about the keywords they had set up in the email system to flag messages for 
 potential thefts, subversion, corporate espionage, etc.
 
 I made note of every one.
 
 The next week at work I got with a bunch of fellow workers and shared the 
 list. We then went out of our way to incorporate every one of the words in 
 every email we possibly could.
 
 After this guy's wife divorced him a year or two later, she told me in 
 passing that one of his pet projects had gone down in flames because it took 
 too many resources (people) to manage. Turns out it was his email 
 filtering
 
 Dan
 
 Sent from my iPad
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Re: [MBZ] Of batteries and clocks

2014-07-14 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
That is the sort that I typeth of.

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On Jul 13, 2014, at 19:13, Jim Cathey via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
wrote:

 I don't recall having to disassemble the clock, that is, remove the hands.
 
 I suppose it depends on the clock.  I only have experience
 with the ones buried in the tachometer.
 
 -- Jim
 
 
 
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[MBZ] Of batteries and clocks

2014-07-13 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
I finally had the battery in the 85 300d die ... 
It was reading 12.79 volts and I would just get a click (with all lights 
shutting off). I don't think that I can legitimately complain about it; it had 
the blessed star on it (less expensive than interstate or snears), and I saw 
20 Jan 2007 in my handwriting on the top...

Anyhow after replacing it, the clock is kaput.

Electrolytic caps?

(It used to make a ticking noise previously...)

How gnarly of a job is it?


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Re: [MBZ] Of batteries and clocks

2014-07-13 Thread John Reames via Mercedes
Yeah, the hand repaint is a good idea... What vendor paint did you use? 

I expect that you'd sort of mask the plastic head to keep it clean?

Soldering isn't any issue, as I've a 7w iron and hands (just barely) steady 
enough to use it for some SMD work... but keep that RoHS solder (crap) away 
from me (you can pry my 63/37 from the clutches of my cold dead hands!)

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Jul 13, 2014, at 16:21, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 Anyhow after replacing it, the clock is kaput.
 Electrolytic caps?  How gnarly of a job is it?
 
 The worst part is getting the hands off of the clock, IIRC.
 Two spoons, used as levers.  (Bowls as fulcra.)  This should
 help avoid breaking things.  You can take this opportunity
 to repaint the needles if they're faded.  IIRC a good color
 match is tangerine.  This assumes you can solder without
 killing things, but as soldering goes it's a pretty easy one.
 
 -- Jim
 
 

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