Re: [MBZ] 124 HEADLIGHT WIRES

2016-12-27 Thread Craig via Mercedes
On Tue, 27 Dec 2016 11:19:18 -0600 Curley McLain via Mercedes
 wrote:

> NO!  OE bubs only!
> 
> I don't like relays in headlight circuit.  Single point of failure.
> Now there are 4 points of failure so you generally end up with 4/4 or
> 3/4 of the possible light available.  If a relay fails, it is lights
> out.

If you headlight dimmer switch or the light switch on the dash fail, it's
also lights out -- there are two points of single point of failure from
the factory.



Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 124 HEADLIGHT WIRES

2016-12-27 Thread MG via Mercedes
That is why, if you do it right you have 4 relays. The individual 
wires to the headlights each go to a relay that switches the 
power from the original wire to power from the battery to each 
individual filament of headlight bulb using heavier wire which 
will better carry the amps actually required by the filament. So 
bottom line still the same reliability or better because now the 
fuse in the fuse panel doesn't have to carry anywhere near as 
much power. Also leaves more reserve in the original main fuse 
panel to battery wires to handle other needs (keeps them cooler).
Though I will admit you do now have an extra failure point at 
each relay but given the gains everywhere else and the 
reliability of relays in general I feel that is more then made up 
for.


Manfred



Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2016 11:19:18 -0600
From: Curley McLain <126die...@gmail.com>


NO!  OE bubs only!

I don't like relays in headlight circuit.  Single point of failure.  Now 
there are 4 points of failure so you generally end up with 4/4 or 3/4 of 
the possible light available.  If a relay fails, it is lights out.



MG via Mercedes 
December 27, 2016 at 8:58 AM
Sounds like it's time to make a heavy duty wire set with relays. use 
the original wires to run the relays and a new feed from the battery 
for power. Try some 12 gauge and your headlights should be a bit 
brighter. Been meaning to do that for a few years now.


You aren't by any chance running a set of those rally bulbs are you? :-)

Manfred






--

Message: 8
Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2016 12:22:43 -0500 (EST)
From: Mitch Haley 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: VW doesn't like buying back stripped TDIs
Message-ID:

<221607222.926959.99d026cf-f058-4c5f-b389-f65b17bedded.open-xcha...@email.1and1.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

I would think they could if VW were to enable the "limp while emissions testing"
mode to operate full time, but I don't know the terms of the settlement. 
I get the idea they'd be pretty slow if they had to be driven like that. 
Mitch.



On December 27, 2016 at 11:21 AM Larry Turner via Mercedes
 wrote:


That's a shame.  I would live with the problem if it were me.

Can the affected diesels be sold on the used market?

LarryT


On 12/27/2016 11:15 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

Vw will no longer be selling diesels in the US.

Sent from my iPhone


On Dec 27, 2016, at 10:05 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes
 wrote:

Speaking of the VW magic with software, I wonder if new diesels will be
impossible to buy?  I was in the market about a year ago when this was
still in court and the saleslady said they weren't allowed to sell new
Diesels.  I assume they are selling them again?

Man, we diesel enthusiast just can;t get a break, 1st, back in the 70's, GM
tried to use gas V8 cranks which broke too soon, now, VW has put another
nail into the casket!

I wonder if new cars will be offered with diesels as they were in the past?

LarryT



On 12/26/2016 9:59 PM, Dimitri via Mercedes wrote:
Yup the guy is a dirtbag alright. VW should disqualify him from the
buyback. period.

Sent from my iPhone


On Dec 23, 2016, at 9:23 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 wrote:

I don't care if stripping the car meets the letter of the buyback it's a
dirtbag move and dirtbag that do it shouldn't get the full buyback price.
Everybody knows what the buyback means, some people are trying to do
better than a fair deal and that's not right.
Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

  On Fri, Dec 23, 2016 at 5:49 AM, Mitch Haley via
Mercedes wrote:
  
http://jalopnik.com/volkswagen-refuses-to-buy-back-the-stripped-out-car-rig-1790345158

Joe just told me over the phone that a mere hour before his appointment
at the
VW dealership, a representative for the company? who most likely saw
yesterday?s
story on Jalopnik?called and told him his buyback appointment had been
postponed. (We have reached out to Volkswagen directly about this matter
and
will update if we hear anything.)

Joe says the rep told him that the reason for the delay is that VW
believes
stripping the car ?wasn?t in the spirit of the buyback.?

But as for the actual letter of the buyback, as Joe points out, the FTC
Consent
Order specifies only that to be eligible cars have to be ?operable,? a
term the
document defines clearly as ?can be driven under its own 2.0- liter TDI
engine
power.?

Joe says his car drives just fine.

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Re: [MBZ] 124 HEADLIGHT WIRES

2016-12-27 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes

NO!  OE bubs only!

I don't like relays in headlight circuit.  Single point of failure.  Now 
there are 4 points of failure so you generally end up with 4/4 or 3/4 of 
the possible light available.  If a relay fails, it is lights out.



MG via Mercedes 
December 27, 2016 at 8:58 AM
Sounds like it's time to make a heavy duty wire set with relays. use 
the original wires to run the relays and a new feed from the battery 
for power. Try some 12 gauge and your headlights should be a bit 
brighter. Been meaning to do that for a few years now.


You aren't by any chance running a set of those rally bulbs are you? :-)

Manfred




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Re: [MBZ] 124 HEADLIGHT WIRES

2016-12-27 Thread Larry Turner via Mercedes

Thanks!  Very well explained.  I now understand...

LarryT


On 12/27/2016 9:26 AM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Tue, 27 Dec 2016 06:31:01 -0500 Larry Turner via Mercedes
 wrote:


Speaking of Deoxit, is that a replacement for Dielectric Grease, or
should both be used, or just one.  I have both, and usually put a thin
layer of Dielectric on all connections.  I guess I am saying I need to
know what situation calls for Deoxit and when should I use Dielectric?

DeoxIT is to remove oxidation.

Dielectric grease is to keep contaminates out of connections.

Use DeoxIT if your connections are not being made well, attaching and
removing the plug several times. Then use dielectric grease to keep the
connections good.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 124 HEADLIGHT WIRES

2016-12-27 Thread Peter Frederick via Mercedes
Eh, I'd not bother with all that, just get a set of Euro headlights.   
Not too bad if you get the Chinese ones, although Hella's are better  
if you can find them.


Beat the h..l out of the DOT originals and don't pull any more  
current.  If I keep either of the W124s much longer I will get a set  
for them, had them on the wrecked 300d and loved them.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 124 HEADLIGHT WIRES

2016-12-27 Thread MG via Mercedes
Sounds like it's time to make a heavy duty wire set with relays. 
use the original wires to run the relays and a new feed from the 
battery for power. Try some 12 gauge and your headlights should 
be a bit brighter. Been meaning to do that for a few years now.


You aren't by any chance running a set of those rally bulbs are 
you? :-)


Manfred



Date: Mon, 26 Dec 2016 22:58:45 -0600
From: Curley McLain <126die...@gmail.com>


About a year ago, I salvaged new wires out of a junker to replace the 
melted plug on the right headlight of the 124 300D (1987)  Now, the 
"new" wire is burned again. I know this is a common problem, but has 
anyone found other solutions for a more permanent fix.  I know herr 
Stern will sell high watt lights, relays, wires, plugs, etc for whatever 
the going price is ($500 or $600)  I don't want to spend that much money 
on what now is a $1000 car.  I don't even want to spend the $100 or so 
on the new wire and plug from MB when I can find used ones for much less.


In the meantime, I salvaged another wire from a busted up light, and a 
rt and left headlight assembly; rt with a very old headlight door and 
left with no headlight door.  So, I have options.  wire or whole assembly.


Would it do any good to also replace the bulb?  Last year I believe I 
reused the same bulb.  At any rate, it was a used bub, not a new one.   
MY thinking is new bub=shiny pins .: less resistance .: less heat buildup.


and a shot of deoxit while plugging and unplugging the old bub...before 
installing with a new bub.


Any ideas?


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Re: [MBZ] 124 HEADLIGHT WIRES

2016-12-27 Thread Craig via Mercedes
On Tue, 27 Dec 2016 06:31:01 -0500 Larry Turner via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Speaking of Deoxit, is that a replacement for Dielectric Grease, or 
> should both be used, or just one.  I have both, and usually put a thin 
> layer of Dielectric on all connections.  I guess I am saying I need to 
> know what situation calls for Deoxit and when should I use Dielectric?

DeoxIT is to remove oxidation.

Dielectric grease is to keep contaminates out of connections.

Use DeoxIT if your connections are not being made well, attaching and
removing the plug several times. Then use dielectric grease to keep the
connections good.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 124 HEADLIGHT WIRES

2016-12-27 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes

looks like o'really? has one for 9007 bubs.

And Larry found them at German Auto Parts.

Thanks

Peter Frederick via Mercedes 
December 27, 2016 at 8:17 AM
FLAPS I think.  Been a while.

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] 124 HEADLIGHT WIRES

2016-12-27 Thread Peter Frederick via Mercedes

FLAPS I think.  Been a while.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 124 HEADLIGHT WIRES

2016-12-27 Thread Larry Turner via Mercedes
while searching for a replacement GP Relay, I came across these 
Headlight Connector repair kits - no idea of the quality = 
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Mercedes/1991/3309/7/17187/0



On 12/27/2016 12:04 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:
Yes, don't use the OEM sockets, buy a replacement, they are both 
common and cheap.  They are much heavier than the OEM and the wires 
are as well.


Did that on the "new" 300D, had been replaced but twisted together and 
not soldered, so they got hot and burned the wires again.


The factory ones are too light, for some reason.  Usually Benz is 
pretty good with electricals.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 124 HEADLIGHT WIRES

2016-12-27 Thread Larry Turner via Mercedes
Speaking of Deoxit, is that a replacement for Dielectric Grease, or 
should both be used, or just one.  I have both, and usually put a thin 
layer of Dielectric on all connections.  I guess I am saying I need to 
know what situation calls for Deoxit and when should I use Dielectric?


Thanks,

LarryT  (sorry for the long winded question) ;-)


On 12/26/2016 11:58 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
About a year ago, I salvaged new wires out of a junker to replace the 
melted plug on the right headlight of the 124 300D (1987)  Now, the 
"new" wire is burned again. I know this is a common problem, but has 
anyone found other solutions for a more permanent fix.  I know herr 
Stern will sell high watt lights, relays, wires, plugs, etc for 
whatever the going price is ($500 or $600)  I don't want to spend that 
much money on what now is a $1000 car.  I don't even want to spend the 
$100 or so on the new wire and plug fromth  MB when I can find used 
ones for much less.


In the meantime, I salvaged another wire from a busted up light, and a 
rt and left headlight assembly; rt with a very old headlight door and 
left with no headlight door.  So, I have options.  wire or whole 
assembly.


Would it do any good to also replace the bulb?  Last year I believe I 
reused the same bulb.  At any rate, it was a used bub, not a new 
one.   MY thinking is new bub=shiny pins .: less resistance .: less 
heat buildup.


and a shot of deoxit while plugging and unplugging the old 
bub...before installing with a new bub.


Any ideas?

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Re: [MBZ] 124 HEADLIGHT WIRES

2016-12-26 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes
Where do you buy the replacement?  Flaps?  or does it have to be a 
specialty shop? (stern)  or does FCP, autohaus, etc MB parts houses 
carry them?  Or are you saying to buy the one from the stealer?  (bend over)


Thanks for the fast reply and good info!


Peter Frederick via Mercedes 
December 26, 2016 at 11:04 PM
Yes, don't use the OEM sockets, buy a replacement, they are both 
common and cheap.  They are much heavier than the OEM and the wires 
are as well.


Did that on the "new" 300D, had been replaced but twisted together and 
not soldered, so they got hot and burned the wires again.


The factory ones are too light, for some reason.  Usually Benz is 
pretty good with electricals.


Peter


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Re: [MBZ] 124 HEADLIGHT WIRES

2016-12-26 Thread Peter Frederick via Mercedes
Yes, don't use the OEM sockets, buy a replacement, they are both  
common and cheap.  They are much heavier than the OEM and the wires  
are as well.


Did that on the "new" 300D, had been replaced but twisted together and  
not soldered, so they got hot and burned the wires again.


The factory ones are too light, for some reason.  Usually Benz is  
pretty good with electricals.


Peter

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[MBZ] 124 HEADLIGHT WIRES

2016-12-26 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes
About a year ago, I salvaged new wires out of a junker to replace the 
melted plug on the right headlight of the 124 300D (1987)  Now, the 
"new" wire is burned again. I know this is a common problem, but has 
anyone found other solutions for a more permanent fix.  I know herr 
Stern will sell high watt lights, relays, wires, plugs, etc for whatever 
the going price is ($500 or $600)  I don't want to spend that much money 
on what now is a $1000 car.  I don't even want to spend the $100 or so 
on the new wire and plug from MB when I can find used ones for much less.


In the meantime, I salvaged another wire from a busted up light, and a 
rt and left headlight assembly; rt with a very old headlight door and 
left with no headlight door.  So, I have options.  wire or whole assembly.


Would it do any good to also replace the bulb?  Last year I believe I 
reused the same bulb.  At any rate, it was a used bub, not a new one.   
MY thinking is new bub=shiny pins .: less resistance .: less heat buildup.


and a shot of deoxit while plugging and unplugging the old bub...before 
installing with a new bub.


Any ideas?

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