Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-21 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
Thanks Curly and Wilton.  Very nice to have fixed it for a nice low price.  
Fortunate I found it so quickly.  There are several yards scattered about 
Charleston, a couple up the road a bit in Summerville that I need to check out 
someday.

Yes, big heat sink on the blower regulator is called a porcupine.  It's 
aluminum, so I'll add it to my pile that will be sold to a recycler.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-21 Thread wiltonw--- via Mercedes
Where's the 124 porcupine?  Directly above front passenger's feet in my/Tim's 
350SDL. Replaced it once with shaky hands and bassackward view via mirror; got 
it done anyway.

Wilt
  
 Max Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: 
 Thanks Curly and Wilton.  Very nice to have fixed it for a nice low price.  
 Fortunate I found it so quickly.  There are several yards scattered about 
 Charleston, a couple up the road a bit in Summerville that I need to check 
 out someday.
 
 Yes, big heat sink on the blower regulator is called a porcupine.  It's 
 aluminum, so I'll add it to my pile that will be sold to a recycler.
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD
 '95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-21 Thread Peter Frederick via Mercedes
It's under the blower motor in the fan housing, kinda a pain to get  
out (you have to hold your left hand in the right position as you fish  
around with your right, etc).  Usually dirty, too.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-21 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
Yes, buried under the hood, under the windshield wiper and all the rain gutter 
pieces at the base off the windshield.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On February 21, 2015 6:38:32 PM EST, Peter Frederick via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
It's under the blower motor in the fan housing, kinda a pain to get  
out (you have to hold your left hand in the right position as you fish 

around with your right, etc).  Usually dirty, too.


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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-21 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes

On Fri, 20 Feb 2015 18:47:17 -0600 Peter Frederick via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 You can get replacement electronics.  Chinese, so who knows how long 
 they will last, but the cheap replacement I put in the wagon works 
 fine with the new blower.\


 You cannot replace the controller with a resistor, it's a duty cycle 
 controller, controls fan speed by switching the ground in and out.  
 Blower will probably burn up if you use a resistor instead, it's meant 
 to run full power or none, not by controlling current to the blower.


The motor is an inductor and averages the voltage seen by the varying
duty cycle to have a current that varies with duty cycle. (I could type
out the equations, but ASCII makes that difficult!)

That is no different than varying the current through the motor with a
resistor, though the resistor will have a huge dissipation and get very
hot whereas the switch transistor in the controller is either on or off
and sees much less dissipation.

You won't burn out the motor, but you could either burn out your resistor
or burn yourself on it.

Craig


Right.  the dodge resistor pack is essentially an electric heater. It 
provides supplemental heat as it is mounted.   dogde mounts it in the 
heater duct through the front of the firewall.  so the heat goes into 
the heater duct and the mounting is steel to steel, not plastic.  Had 
I used it, I had planned to mount it on the bottom cover of the 
blower box.  I am not sure if it would be ok, or if would melt the 
bottom cover.


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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-21 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes

I don't think a DC motor is going to care how the RMS voltage and
current are decreased.


No.  It doesn't usually even care that it is _DC_!
The 'universal' motor type, in other words.

The porcupine is also mounted in the airflow from
the fan so its supplemental heat is used.  (Unless
you have the AC on for cooling purposes, then it's
working against you.)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-21 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
Dan, copy on the steering wheel.

All: new regulator works.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-21 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
Thanks, Max.

I suspect that something like this would go in short order, but it's a long 
shot I'm willing to take.  A good price for a used one that's in decent 
condition without an air bag is probably $200.  I have a spare airbag so that's 
not a concern.

Dan


 On Feb 21, 2015, at 12:36 PM, Max Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Dan, copy on the steering wheel.
 
 All: new regulator works.
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD
 '95 E300


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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-21 Thread Craig via Mercedes
On Sat, 21 Feb 2015 08:49:03 -0600 Curly McLain 126die...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Right.  the dodge resistor pack is essentially an electric heater. It 
 provides supplemental heat as it is mounted.   dogde mounts it in the 
 heater duct through the front of the firewall.  so the heat goes into 
 the heater duct and the mounting is steel to steel, not plastic.

They had a good idea! But, I presume, it also added heat in summer.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-21 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
Max,

This goes for everyone on the list:

If anyone sees a wood and leather steering wheel on an R129 or W140 in the 
knackers, let me know.  They are pretty much interchangeable between the two 
chassis.  I watch for them on eBay regularly but they're usually trashed or 
stupid expensive.  A guy had one cheap this week but he leather was trashed.  I 
was wondering how much it would cost to have the leather recovered or 
replaced...

I found one a while back and put it on the S500 coupe.  I just drove it a few 
weeks ago and I REALLY liked it, not to mention it looks really nice, too!

Dan


 On Feb 21, 2015, at 11:36 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Home from LKQ now, $11.25 for a used blower regulator from a '91 coupe, 157k 
 miles on the clock.
 
 Rich, there were a coupe 126 cars, both gassers, coupe and a sedan.
 
 If I get this in quickly, and it works, may go back for the nice black 
 steering wheel in the coupe.  Didn't have my torx bits with me to get the air 
 bag off.
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD
 '95 E300
 
 On February 21, 2015 10:23:06 AM EST, Jim Cathey via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 I don't think a DC motor is going to care how the RMS voltage and
 current are decreased.
 
 No.  It doesn't usually even care that it is _DC_!
 The 'universal' motor type, in other words.
 
 The porcupine is also mounted in the airflow from
 the fan so its supplemental heat is used.  (Unless
 you have the AC on for cooling purposes, then it's
 working against you.)
 
 -- Jim
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-21 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
Home from LKQ now, $11.25 for a used blower regulator from a '91 coupe, 157k 
miles on the clock.

Rich, there were a coupe 126 cars, both gassers, coupe and a sedan.

If I get this in quickly, and it works, may go back for the nice black steering 
wheel in the coupe.  Didn't have my torx bits with me to get the air bag off.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On February 21, 2015 10:23:06 AM EST, Jim Cathey via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 I don't think a DC motor is going to care how the RMS voltage and
 current are decreased.

No.  It doesn't usually even care that it is _DC_!
The 'universal' motor type, in other words.

The porcupine is also mounted in the airflow from
the fan so its supplemental heat is used.  (Unless
you have the AC on for cooling purposes, then it's
working against you.)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-21 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
The new blower regulator is installed and working, took about an hour and 
forty-five minutes.

I realize now that as the old regulator was failing, it may have been 
generating a lot of heat.  I noticed that setting the temp lower would not 
always produce lower vent air temperature, especially for the side vents.  
We'll see during my test ride after I finish lunch.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-21 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes

Dan, copy on the steering wheel.

All: new regulator works.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300



That is a score!  Congrats and attaboy!

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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-21 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes

On Sat, 21 Feb 2015 08:49:03 -0600 Curly McLain 126die...@gmail.com
wrote:


 Right.  the dodge resistor pack is essentially an electric heater. It
 provides supplemental heat as it is mounted.   dogde mounts it in the
 heater duct through the front of the firewall.  so the heat goes into
 the heater duct and the mounting is steel to steel, not plastic.


They had a good idea! But, I presume, it also added heat in summer.

Craig


Most people run AC with the blower on High, which would minimize the 
heat generated.


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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-21 Thread wiltonw--- via Mercedes
ATTABOY!

Does the 124 have a porcupine?

Wilt

 Max Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: 
 The new blower regulator is installed and working, took about an hour and 
 forty-five minutes.
 
 I realize now that as the old regulator was failing, it may have been 
 generating a lot of heat.  I noticed that setting the temp lower would not 
 always produce lower vent air temperature, especially for the side vents.  
 We'll see during my test ride after I finish lunch.
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD
 '95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-20 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
Yes, I should have written blower regulator vice blower.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On February 20, 2015 12:52:58 AM EST, Craig via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
On Thu, 19 Feb 2015 23:07:10 -0500 Max Dillon via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 May go by the knackers Saturday, see if a good used blower is to be
 had.

From what I picked up from the thread, you'll need the something that
drives the blower instead of another blower.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-20 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes

You cannot use a rheostat to regulate blower speed
manually, the thing would have to be good for dropping
quite a bit of power.  (Think: Frankenstein movie prop,
that level of technology.)  Consider the heat sink fins
that are on the porcupine itself, or the physical size and
robustness of the blower resistors in the pre-porcupine
days.  You can have full power, or you can get a resistor
box and flange it in, or you can design/build something
more elaborate...  Or you can just replace the porcupine
with a good one.  I do not know if it's possible to
_repair_ a porcupine, such as with a new power transistor
inside or something.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-20 Thread Peter Frederick via Mercedes
You can get replacement electronics.  Chinese, so who knows how long  
they will last, but the cheap replacement I put in the wagon works  
fine with the new blower.\


You cannot replace the controller with a resistor, it's a duty cycle  
controller, controls fan speed by switching the ground in and out.   
Blower will probably burn up if you use a resistor instead, it's meant  
to run full power or none, not by controlling current to the blower.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-20 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
Plan A is find a used from a later gasser at the knackers tomorrow (predicted 
high of 63F, whoohoo!).  Plan B will be a toggle switch to provide full power 
until I can repeat Plan A.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On February 20, 2015 7:47:17 PM EST, Peter Frederick via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
You can get replacement electronics.  Chinese, so who knows how long  
they will last, but the cheap replacement I put in the wagon works  
fine with the new blower.\

You cannot replace the controller with a resistor, it's a duty cycle  
controller, controls fan speed by switching the ground in and out.   
Blower will probably burn up if you use a resistor instead, it's meant 

to run full power or none, not by controlling current to the blower.


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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-20 Thread Craig via Mercedes
On Fri, 20 Feb 2015 18:47:17 -0600 Peter Frederick via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 You can get replacement electronics.  Chinese, so who knows how long  
 they will last, but the cheap replacement I put in the wagon works  
 fine with the new blower.\
 
 You cannot replace the controller with a resistor, it's a duty cycle  
 controller, controls fan speed by switching the ground in and out.   
 Blower will probably burn up if you use a resistor instead, it's meant  
 to run full power or none, not by controlling current to the blower.

The motor is an inductor and averages the voltage seen by the varying
duty cycle to have a current that varies with duty cycle. (I could type
out the equations, but ASCII makes that difficult!)

That is no different than varying the current through the motor with a
resistor, though the resistor will have a huge dissipation and get very
hot whereas the switch transistor in the controller is either on or off
and sees much less dissipation.

You won't burn out the motor, but you could either burn out your resistor
or burn yourself on it.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-20 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes

You cannot use a rheostat to regulate blower speed
manually, the thing would have to be good for dropping
quite a bit of power.  (Think: Frankenstein movie prop,
that level of technology.)  Consider the heat sink fins
that are on the porcupine itself, or the physical size and
robustness of the blower resistors in the pre-porcupine
days.  You can have full power, or you can get a resistor
box and flange it in, or you can design/build something
more elaborate...  Or you can just replace the porcupine
with a good one.  I do not know if it's possible to
_repair_ a porcupine, such as with a new power transistor
inside or something.

-- Jim



I had a resistor set left over from the old dogde 
van.  It was 5 speed.  I contemplated getting the 
switch I salvaged out of the van and using it and 
the resistor bank to generate 5 speeds ranter 
than the one high speed.   If it had gone until 
April with hout finding a good porcupine, I would 
have done that.  But since I found a good 
porcupine for a reasonable price, i put it back 
to factory rather than bodging 'merkun iron into 
it.


I always like upgrading the frod or the VW with 
used MB parts, but it has to save a lot of money 
on a rustbucket MB before I will put 'merkun 
parts on the MB.  The SDL qualifies on the 
rustbucket part, but the savings were not 
substantial enough.  I'd have put in the dogde 
resistor bank and switch if the only option was 
to buy a NEW porcupine.


The 240D/RTW heater controls that just work are 
much preferable to the ACC crap that always 
breaks.  (sorry Jaime, but I don't like spending 
thousands of $ and/or taking days of time to 
replace all the underdash junk when a simple 
cable will do)


Now it seems like all the heater box doors are 
shut.  The fan blows on high, but not much air is 
moving.  On the first SDL, i eliminated frozen 
feet after spending several thousand $$ on the 
ACC buy sticking a chunk of 2x4 in the heater box 
to hold the flap open.  If it ever warms up a 
little, I will need to do that on this SDL and 
try to find a way to block open the defrost and 
dash vents.   Temps near 0ºF or below for the 
foreseeable future.


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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-20 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Peter wrote:
 
 You cannot replace the controller with a resistor, it's a duty
 cycle controller, controls fan speed by switching the ground in
 and out. Blower will probably burn up if you use a resistor
 instead, it's meant to run full power or none, not by controlling
 current to the blower.

The heat load _in_ the motor of a brush type DC motor is directly
related to the RMS voltage.  One way to vary the voltage is pulse
width modulation (PWM)- which is what you are describing.  Full on,
full off, switched pretty fast.  The off time pulls the average
down so the motor runs slower.  

Another way to lower the RMS voltage is a resistor.  

A big disadvantage of using a resistor is the wasted heat.  The
resistor ends up throwing away as waste heat a significant portion
of the power used.  But a resistor is very simple.

A PWM circuit isn't very complex - unless you compare it to a
resistor.  Its advantage is almost no wasted heat, since the
controller is controlling a switch that is either on or off.

I don't think a DC motor is going to care how the RMS voltage and
current are decreased.

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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-19 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
Thanks, I'll dig into the archive...

May go by the knackers Saturday, see if a good used blower is to be had. 

Rich, up for a trip to the knackers?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On February 19, 2015 9:35:20 PM EST, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
W126   I cut off the harness from the dead porcupine, wired a toggle 
switch into if, with terminals to hook up the motor.  Yellow not 
needed.

I drilled a hole in the bottom of the box where the porcupine had 
been and put the toggle switch there.

I htink the 124 is similar.

When I was able to get a replacement porcupine for a reasonable 
price, everything unplugged and the new porcupine went in.  Only one 
hole to plug if you want to bother.


Trying to drive in below zero with no heat or defrost was way too 
much like driving a rusted out Karmann Ghia 45 years ago.  Scrape the 
inside, roll down the window, scrape the outside, try to exhale 
slowly out of the side of your mouth to minimize frosting up the 
window while driving.

I think the Nov writeup has more detail.

Peter chastised me thoroughly for running the blower full blast with 
the toggle switch, but even with the porcupine, it runs full blast 
unless the sun is out and the temps get close to 40 or so.   It sure 
beats no defrost and no heat!

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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-19 Thread Craig via Mercedes
On Thu, 19 Feb 2015 23:07:10 -0500 Max Dillon via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 May go by the knackers Saturday, see if a good used blower is to be
 had.

From what I picked up from the thread, you'll need the something that
drives the blower instead of another blower.


Craig

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[MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-19 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
Dieselvolk,

1987 300TD, 338k miles, recently put back on the road after about a two year 
time-out to replace the head.

The blower motor has become very weak recently.  I noticed it was weak when I 
started driving the car again last fall.  A couple of times it didn't work at 
all, but usually would start working after driving the car a bit.  It recovered 
to about half strength after a few weeks of driving the car, but now it has 
really gone downhill.

I've opened up the fan cover after removing the wind shield wiper, and applied 
12 volts directly to the motor, and it runs just fine, nice and strong.

Sounds like a bad voltage regulator, or maybe the PBU is bad?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-19 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes

Did someone on this list post a cheap solution for bypassing the blower
motor voltage regulator with a rheostat for manual control of the blower?
___


Ja, read the archive from November

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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-19 Thread Meade Dillon via Mercedes
OK, pretty sure I've isolated to the regulator.  There is a three-pin
connector that comes out of the fan housing to a firewall connection on the
driver's side.  Yellow, red and black wires, go to the voltage regulator
(N29 on the wiring diagram).  Red is power from the 30A fuse on the drivers
fender, black goes to ground, and yellow is the signal from the PBU.  PBU
signal varies from 1.2 volts (low fan speed button pushed in) to 7.3 volts
(high speed fan button pushed).

On Thu, Feb 19, 2015 at 6:49 PM, Max Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com wrote:

 Dieselvolk,

 1987 300TD, 338k miles, recently put back on the road after about a two
 year time-out to replace the head.

 The blower motor has become very weak recently. I noticed it was weak when
 I started driving the car again last fall. A couple of times it didn't work
 at all, but usually would start working after driving the car a bit. It
 recovered to about half strength after a few weeks of driving the car, but
 now it has really gone downhill.

 I've opened up the fan cover after removing the wind shield wiper, and
 applied 12 volts directly to the motor, and it runs just fine, nice and
 strong.

 Sounds like a bad voltage regulator, or maybe the PBU is bad?
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD
 '95 E300




-- 
-
Max
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-19 Thread wiltonw--- via Mercedes
I used a simple ON/OFF toggle switch to operate blower in my 350SDL on a 
weekend years ago.

Wilton

 Meade Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: 
 Did someone on this list post a cheap solution for bypassing the blower
 motor voltage regulator with a rheostat for manual control of the blower?
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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-19 Thread Meade Dillon via Mercedes
Did someone on this list post a cheap solution for bypassing the blower
motor voltage regulator with a rheostat for manual control of the blower?
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Re: [MBZ] 124 HVAC blower motor diagnosis

2015-02-19 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
W126   I cut off the harness from the dead porcupine, wired a toggle 
switch into if, with terminals to hook up the motor.  Yellow not 
needed.


I drilled a hole in the bottom of the box where the porcupine had 
been and put the toggle switch there.


I htink the 124 is similar.

When I was able to get a replacement porcupine for a reasonable 
price, everything unplugged and the new porcupine went in.  Only one 
hole to plug if you want to bother.



Trying to drive in below zero with no heat or defrost was way too 
much like driving a rusted out Karmann Ghia 45 years ago.  Scrape the 
inside, roll down the window, scrape the outside, try to exhale 
slowly out of the side of your mouth to minimize frosting up the 
window while driving.


I think the Nov writeup has more detail.

Peter chastised me thoroughly for running the blower full blast with 
the toggle switch, but even with the porcupine, it runs full blast 
unless the sun is out and the temps get close to 40 or so.   It sure 
beats no defrost and no heat!


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