Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-30 Thread dseretakis
I agree on both points. 
You say 1-2 business days. Is that with standard shipping? How do you 
accomplish this without using overnight delivery or priority which may be 
prohibitively expensive?

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 29, 2013, at 11:22 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:

 two things in life often don't  work out well:
 
 1.  rushing
 2.  cheaping out
 
 when you do either it generally ends up taking longer and costing more
 money, but we have moved to a society that values fast and cheap above
 all.  in this case, we learn about rushing.  you can't rush anymore as
 there is a lot of outright crap being sold as people enjoy making 500%
 margins while offering the lowest price at the same time.  (in fact,THIS is
 the only road to success today, but that is a topic for another time).  one
 simply cannot rush today and expect it to work out with any consistency.
 and there often isn't even that much of a delay as parts are often
 delivered in one or two business days.
 
 cheaping out is similarly problematic.  penoff sent me a customer recently
 who wanted a deal on a water pump on a W115 300D.  i told him that rather
 than search for a low price on the standard geba pump all the front end
 sites push, he ought to buy a hepu as those are MUCH better in this
 application than the mediocre geba and that i'd sell him one for like 10
 bucks more than a geba.  a few days later he emails to solicit advise as
 he is having fitment problems with the geba he bought from the low bidder.
 what did he save by cheaping out?  the bottom line is that going and buying
 a pile of garbage at autohausAZ is not really the best value, sort of like
 buying shoes at walmart.  sometimes it works out but often it does not
 
 someone was shocked today to learn that the bucket hat i wear all the time
 (yeah, i'm a fashion icon) cost over 60 bucks in a world where walmart and
 the flea market sell bucket hats for under 10 dollars all day long.  i
 didn't care to explain it and just said man, did i get taken! but the
 reality is that it is hemp watership that has been worn pretty much daily
 by me for 4 years.  it has been washed hundreds of times.  it will probably
 last several years more and odds are the i will lose it before i wear it
 out.
 
 
 On Thu, Aug 29, 2013 at 6:33 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 I finally finished the complete front brake job on the 240D today,
 but...it's still not braking quite right. On the highway, with hard
 braking, I get a pulsation. There is also quite a bit of squealing.
 Here's what I did good and bad:
 
 Good:
 I used genuine MB flexible hoses, grease seals, bearing grease, left front
 bearing set, left front steel brake line. I used scale to measure grease
 and dial indicator to set bearings.
 
 Bad:
 I used remanufactured calipers, duralast pads and duralast rotors. I did
 this in the interest of time. I should have been more patient and ordered
 the good stuff from Gary! I also did not torque the lug nuts but I did use
 the wimpy factory lug wrench which can't realistically apply too much
 torque. I also didn't step on it to tighten! I've never had an issue with
 this approach so I doubt that I warped the rotors but you never know.
 
 What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced!
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 
 -- 
 *reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars
 
 *
 *www.BuyEUROparts.com*
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-30 Thread dseretakis
Autohausaz gives free shipping for all orders over $50. They do offer some OEM 
parts but they offer no guidance. Not all OEM parts are equal. I don't always 
know which to pick. That's why I liked Rusty. He would answer all my questions 
and concerns and give me the best when I asked. He would also match AZ prices. 
I haven't ordered from Gary as of yet, but I anticipate the same level of 
service. This level of service cannot be accomplished by AZ.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 30, 2013, at 12:07 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Silly questions, that I would've asked off-list, but are pertinent to all I 
 suppose.
 One, do you ship from a parts supplier nearest your customer if you can?
 
 Do you offer free shipping on orders over xxx dollars?
 
 Do you provide a tracking number?
 
 Do you provide an email invoice with orders?
 
 Thanks,
 
 Rick
 
 Unlike the baseless accusations made on this list, autohaus az does all that, 
 except I am not sure about free shipping over X dollars. That was a perk 
 offered by Rusty.
 
 OEM parts are available from autohaus az if you ask for them.  NO problems so 
 far.
 
 Since Q is no more, we are on our own, and I use several sources like I used 
 to.  FLAPS is good for some things, as Curt can attest. Dealers advertising 
 in the Star for OE parts.  AZ for the rest.
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-30 Thread Gary Hurst
it would be by shipping from a warehouse near you.  generally, unless the
item is heavy or rare, you are no more than 3 business days away as i will
ship most of my cross country stuff on fedex 3 day as it isn't really much
more than fedex ground unless heavy.  but this also depends on where you
live.  if you live near large population centers, i usually have a number
of warehouses nearby to ship from.  if you live in wyoming, not so much

but it also depends on what is where.  a lot of warehouses have no
abandoned OEM parts for all URO all the time as customers seem to just want
cheaper and they make more money selling URO anyway.


On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 7:20 AM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I agree on both points.
 You say 1-2 business days. Is that with standard shipping? How do you
 accomplish this without using overnight delivery or priority which may be
 prohibitively expensive?

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 29, 2013, at 11:22 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:

  two things in life often don't  work out well:
 
  1.  rushing
  2.  cheaping out
 
  when you do either it generally ends up taking longer and costing more
  money, but we have moved to a society that values fast and cheap above
  all.  in this case, we learn about rushing.  you can't rush anymore as
  there is a lot of outright crap being sold as people enjoy making 500%
  margins while offering the lowest price at the same time.  (in fact,THIS
 is
  the only road to success today, but that is a topic for another time).
  one
  simply cannot rush today and expect it to work out with any consistency.
  and there often isn't even that much of a delay as parts are often
  delivered in one or two business days.
 
  cheaping out is similarly problematic.  penoff sent me a customer
 recently
  who wanted a deal on a water pump on a W115 300D.  i told him that
 rather
  than search for a low price on the standard geba pump all the front end
  sites push, he ought to buy a hepu as those are MUCH better in this
  application than the mediocre geba and that i'd sell him one for like 10
  bucks more than a geba.  a few days later he emails to solicit advise as
  he is having fitment problems with the geba he bought from the low
 bidder.
  what did he save by cheaping out?  the bottom line is that going and
 buying
  a pile of garbage at autohausAZ is not really the best value, sort of
 like
  buying shoes at walmart.  sometimes it works out but often it does not
 
  someone was shocked today to learn that the bucket hat i wear all the
 time
  (yeah, i'm a fashion icon) cost over 60 bucks in a world where walmart
 and
  the flea market sell bucket hats for under 10 dollars all day long.  i
  didn't care to explain it and just said man, did i get taken! but the
  reality is that it is hemp watership that has been worn pretty much daily
  by me for 4 years.  it has been washed hundreds of times.  it will
 probably
  last several years more and odds are the i will lose it before i wear it
  out.
 
 
  On Thu, Aug 29, 2013 at 6:33 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
  I finally finished the complete front brake job on the 240D today,
  but...it's still not braking quite right. On the highway, with hard
  braking, I get a pulsation. There is also quite a bit of squealing.
  Here's what I did good and bad:
 
  Good:
  I used genuine MB flexible hoses, grease seals, bearing grease, left
 front
  bearing set, left front steel brake line. I used scale to measure grease
  and dial indicator to set bearings.
 
  Bad:
  I used remanufactured calipers, duralast pads and duralast rotors. I did
  this in the interest of time. I should have been more patient and
 ordered
  the good stuff from Gary! I also did not torque the lug nuts but I did
 use
  the wimpy factory lug wrench which can't realistically apply too much
  torque. I also didn't step on it to tighten! I've never had an issue
 with
  this approach so I doubt that I warped the rotors but you never know.
 
  What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced!
 
  Sent from my iPhone
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
 
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 
  --
  *reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars
 
  *
  *www.BuyEUROparts.com*
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
 
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com

 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




-- 
*reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other 

Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-30 Thread Gary Hurst
they actually mostly don't offer OEM parts, which is at least part of how
they achieve such fantastic prices.  their catalogue is loaded up with
chinese generic despite the general availability of the same part in OEM.
getting back to the examples i cited recently:

kaleb's front wheel bearings from AZ

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=pgl3la45vwlnyl55pfjruyrupartnumber=2013300251

these are not OEM nor top quality.  why not sell a OEM/quality brand such
as SKF, FAG or even ruville?  because those cost as much wholesale as these
pex (the folks who bring you brake sensors.  whatever might be in that
box???) cost retail.  this is an illusion of low prices, the same sort of
thing you can find at walmart where there are genuine bargains in the
aisles but mostly just chinese garbage of no value on the shelves.  in
fact, i'd say AZ's model is the most cynical of the walmart type and in the
end will just load you up with garbage and not value.

here is bill's expansion tank cap.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=pgl3la45vwlnyl55pfjruyrupartnumber=0005018215

a real one is made by blau and costs more than this chinese uro debacle.
the price i pay for the uro is $8.38 on my screen from worldpac but i can
probably negotiate that down to about 5 bucks.  a huge outfit like AZ will
be buying direct from uro and paying maybe 3 or 4 bucks for it.  so it's a
4 or 5 fold markup and you've just been sold a POS.  what have you
accomplished here other than getting fleeced?  but if i tell you that a
real one costs 20 or 25 dollars, i am now expensive as AZ has the same
thing for 15.  only it's not the same thing!

look at mike's AC compressor.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=pgl3la45vwlnyl55pfjruyrupartnumber=1021300615

like EVERYTHING at AZ, it's ON SALE.  but is this chinese behr the unit to
get?  of the 3 widely distributed options, it is by far the worst choice
but it is also the cheapest for AZ to buy, so it's the one they can sell
most cheaply.  i can't sell you a real one for that price, but 20% more, so
i am expensive while offering all the value

when it is a like item, i will sell it to you for 10% over AZ.  i feel not
ending up with a pile of crap is worth the premium.  but it often or even
mostly won't be a like item as AZ pushes the stuff i won't even sell






On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 7:53 AM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Autohausaz gives free shipping for all orders over $50. They do offer some
 OEM parts but they offer no guidance. Not all OEM parts are equal. I don't
 always know which to pick. That's why I liked Rusty. He would answer all my
 questions and concerns and give me the best when I asked. He would also
 match AZ prices. I haven't ordered from Gary as of yet, but I anticipate
 the same level of service. This level of service cannot be accomplished by
 AZ.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 30, 2013, at 12:07 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

  Silly questions, that I would've asked off-list, but are pertinent to
 all I suppose.
  One, do you ship from a parts supplier nearest your customer if you can?
 
  Do you offer free shipping on orders over xxx dollars?
 
  Do you provide a tracking number?
 
  Do you provide an email invoice with orders?
 
  Thanks,
 
  Rick
 
  Unlike the baseless accusations made on this list, autohaus az does all
 that, except I am not sure about free shipping over X dollars. That was a
 perk offered by Rusty.
 
  OEM parts are available from autohaus az if you ask for them.  NO
 problems so far.
 
  Since Q is no more, we are on our own, and I use several sources like I
 used to.  FLAPS is good for some things, as Curt can attest. Dealers
 advertising in the Star for OE parts.  AZ for the rest.
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
 
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com

 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




-- 
*reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars

*
*www.BuyEUROparts.com*
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-30 Thread Gary Hurst
sometimes it works out perfectly but all too often not. my ex wife used to
boast about how some $7 pair of shoes were the best pair of shoes she ever
had.  great, but does this somehow mean $7 shoes are a good idea in general?

some guys are ok with enduring multiple failures for the thrill of
sometimes getting a bargain.  i just want it right.  i don't see the point
in messing around with generic white box chinese stuff reboxed as pbr or
ate: when i can have the real deal for roughly the same price.  the china
stuff might work super fine and dandy but why mess around with it when it
so often doesn't?




On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 1:00 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I mostly agree, however I put PBR rotors on my '83 240D and it worked out
 perfectly for 25,000 miles. I forget the pads I used, I think ATE. I'm
 reasonably sure the rotors are less of a big deal than good pads. The
 fronts on my 190D are ceramic, I forget the manufacturer, Akebono
 apparently didn't have a listing.
 The rears irritate me with the occasional squealing even though they were
 the upgrade pads from CarQuest. I might buy some replacements...

 -Curt

 Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 23:22:52 -0400
 From: Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
 Message-ID:
 CACioK3uCxD6SpbQCO=jnpymo2cqpgnrc+nszwwpdze1hvqv...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

 two things in life often don't  work out well:

 1.  rushing
 2.  cheaping out

 when you do either it generally ends up taking longer and costing more
 money, but we have moved to a society that values fast and cheap above
 all.  in this case, we learn about rushing.  you can't rush anymore as
 there is a lot of outright crap being sold as people enjoy making 500%
 margins while offering the lowest price at the same time.  (in fact,THIS is
 the only road to success today, but that is a topic for another time).  one
 simply cannot rush today and expect it to work out with any consistency.
 and there often isn't even that much of a delay as parts are often
 delivered in one or two business days.

 cheaping out is similarly problematic.  penoff sent me a customer recently
 who wanted a deal on a water pump on a W115 300D.  i told him that rather
 than search for a low price on the standard geba pump all the front end
 sites push, he ought to buy a hepu as those are MUCH better in this
 application than the mediocre geba and that i'd sell him one for like 10
 bucks more than a geba.  a few days later he emails to solicit advise as
 he is having fitment problems with the geba he bought from the low bidder.
 what did he save by cheaping out?  the bottom line is that going and buying
 a pile of garbage at autohausAZ is not really the best value, sort of like
 buying shoes at walmart.  sometimes it works out but often it does not

 someone was shocked today to learn that the bucket hat i wear all the time
 (yeah, i'm a fashion icon) cost over 60 bucks in a world where walmart and
 the flea market sell bucket hats for under 10 dollars all day long.  i
 didn't care to explain it and just said man, did i get taken! but the
 reality is that it is hemp watership that has been worn pretty much daily
 by me for 4 years.  it has been washed hundreds of times.  it will probably
 last several years more and odds are the i will lose it before i wear it
 out.
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com

 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




-- 
*reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars

*
*www.BuyEUROparts.com*
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-30 Thread Randy Bennell
I couldn't agree more. When I get parts for the truck, I always ask if 
they have better ones available. So often the parts guys assume, that 
price is paramount. They are generally surprised when I ask if there are 
better ones one shelf. Usually, the price is not much more for the brand 
name than the house brand stuff. Usually, if you compare the 2, you can 
see the difference and would not buy the cheaper ones.


Randy


On 30/08/2013 12:21 PM, Gary Hurst wrote:

sometimes it works out perfectly but all too often not. my ex wife used to
boast about how some $7 pair of shoes were the best pair of shoes she ever
had.  great, but does this somehow mean $7 shoes are a good idea in general?

some guys are ok with enduring multiple failures for the thrill of
sometimes getting a bargain.  i just want it right.  i don't see the point
in messing around with generic white box chinese stuff reboxed as pbr or
ate: when i can have the real deal for roughly the same price.  the china
stuff might work super fine and dandy but why mess around with it when it
so often doesn't?




On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 1:00 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:


I mostly agree, however I put PBR rotors on my '83 240D and it worked out
perfectly for 25,000 miles. I forget the pads I used, I think ATE. I'm
reasonably sure the rotors are less of a big deal than good pads. The
fronts on my 190D are ceramic, I forget the manufacturer, Akebono
apparently didn't have a listing.
The rears irritate me with the occasional squealing even though they were
the upgrade pads from CarQuest. I might buy some replacements...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 23:22:52 -0400
From: Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
Message-ID:
 CACioK3uCxD6SpbQCO=jnpymo2cqpgnrc+nszwwpdze1hvqv...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

two things in life often don't  work out well:

1.  rushing
2.  cheaping out

when you do either it generally ends up taking longer and costing more
money, but we have moved to a society that values fast and cheap above
all.  in this case, we learn about rushing.  you can't rush anymore as
there is a lot of outright crap being sold as people enjoy making 500%
margins while offering the lowest price at the same time.  (in fact,THIS is
the only road to success today, but that is a topic for another time).  one
simply cannot rush today and expect it to work out with any consistency.
and there often isn't even that much of a delay as parts are often
delivered in one or two business days.

cheaping out is similarly problematic.  penoff sent me a customer recently
who wanted a deal on a water pump on a W115 300D.  i told him that rather
than search for a low price on the standard geba pump all the front end
sites push, he ought to buy a hepu as those are MUCH better in this
application than the mediocre geba and that i'd sell him one for like 10
bucks more than a geba.  a few days later he emails to solicit advise as
he is having fitment problems with the geba he bought from the low bidder.
what did he save by cheaping out?  the bottom line is that going and buying
a pile of garbage at autohausAZ is not really the best value, sort of like
buying shoes at walmart.  sometimes it works out but often it does not

someone was shocked today to learn that the bucket hat i wear all the time
(yeah, i'm a fashion icon) cost over 60 bucks in a world where walmart and
the flea market sell bucket hats for under 10 dollars all day long.  i
didn't care to explain it and just said man, did i get taken! but the
reality is that it is hemp watership that has been worn pretty much daily
by me for 4 years.  it has been washed hundreds of times.  it will probably
last several years more and odds are the i will lose it before i wear it
out.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com







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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-30 Thread Curt Raymond
Not glue, go back and read again, I wrote caliper grease:

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/specialized-maintenance-repair/brake-maintenance-repair/permatex-ultra-disc-brake-caliper-lube-24110-detail


-Curt

Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 21:02:30 -0500
From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
Message-ID: a8a915a2-1482-4843-9490-92f022486...@earthlink.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes

One way to eliminate the squeak is to stick with OEM pads, as they  
have the anti-squeal material bonded to the back of the pad.  Cheap  
aftermarkets with plain metal backing plates (no layer of hard plastic  
on the piston side) will probably squeal no matter what you do, and  
glueing them to the rotors with Permatex is only going to make them  
very hard to remove.

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-30 Thread Curt Raymond
I mostly agree, however I put PBR rotors on my '83 240D and it worked out 
perfectly for 25,000 miles. I forget the pads I used, I think ATE. I'm 
reasonably sure the rotors are less of a big deal than good pads. The fronts on 
my 190D are ceramic, I forget the manufacturer, Akebono apparently didn't have 
a listing.
The rears irritate me with the occasional squealing even though they were the 
upgrade pads from CarQuest. I might buy some replacements...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 23:22:52 -0400
From: Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
Message-ID:
    CACioK3uCxD6SpbQCO=jnpymo2cqpgnrc+nszwwpdze1hvqv...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

two things in life often don't  work out well:

1.  rushing
2.  cheaping out

when you do either it generally ends up taking longer and costing more
money, but we have moved to a society that values fast and cheap above
all.  in this case, we learn about rushing.  you can't rush anymore as
there is a lot of outright crap being sold as people enjoy making 500%
margins while offering the lowest price at the same time.  (in fact,THIS is
the only road to success today, but that is a topic for another time).  one
simply cannot rush today and expect it to work out with any consistency.
and there often isn't even that much of a delay as parts are often
delivered in one or two business days.

cheaping out is similarly problematic.  penoff sent me a customer recently
who wanted a deal on a water pump on a W115 300D.  i told him that rather
than search for a low price on the standard geba pump all the front end
sites push, he ought to buy a hepu as those are MUCH better in this
application than the mediocre geba and that i'd sell him one for like 10
bucks more than a geba.  a few days later he emails to solicit advise as
he is having fitment problems with the geba he bought from the low bidder.
what did he save by cheaping out?  the bottom line is that going and buying
a pile of garbage at autohausAZ is not really the best value, sort of like
buying shoes at walmart.  sometimes it works out but often it does not

someone was shocked today to learn that the bucket hat i wear all the time
(yeah, i'm a fashion icon) cost over 60 bucks in a world where walmart and
the flea market sell bucket hats for under 10 dollars all day long.  i
didn't care to explain it and just said man, did i get taken! but the
reality is that it is hemp watership that has been worn pretty much daily
by me for 4 years.  it has been washed hundreds of times.  it will probably
last several years more and odds are the i will lose it before i wear it
out.
___
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-30 Thread Dan Penoff
I got my first set if Akebono ceramic pads from Gary a couple of months ago. I 
have yet to need to clean my wheels, and they stop great.

Wish I had done these a long time ago.

On Aug 30, 2013, at 11:15 AM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:

 they actually mostly don't offer OEM parts, which is at least part of how
 they achieve such fantastic prices.  their catalogue is loaded up with
 chinese generic despite the general availability of the same part in OEM.
 getting back to the examples i cited recently:
 
 kaleb's front wheel bearings from AZ
 
 http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=pgl3la45vwlnyl55pfjruyrupartnumber=2013300251
 
 these are not OEM nor top quality.  why not sell a OEM/quality brand such
 as SKF, FAG or even ruville?  because those cost as much wholesale as these
 pex (the folks who bring you brake sensors.  whatever might be in that
 box???) cost retail.  this is an illusion of low prices, the same sort of
 thing you can find at walmart where there are genuine bargains in the
 aisles but mostly just chinese garbage of no value on the shelves.  in
 fact, i'd say AZ's model is the most cynical of the walmart type and in the
 end will just load you up with garbage and not value.
 
 here is bill's expansion tank cap.
 
 http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=pgl3la45vwlnyl55pfjruyrupartnumber=0005018215
 
 a real one is made by blau and costs more than this chinese uro debacle.
 the price i pay for the uro is $8.38 on my screen from worldpac but i can
 probably negotiate that down to about 5 bucks.  a huge outfit like AZ will
 be buying direct from uro and paying maybe 3 or 4 bucks for it.  so it's a
 4 or 5 fold markup and you've just been sold a POS.  what have you
 accomplished here other than getting fleeced?  but if i tell you that a
 real one costs 20 or 25 dollars, i am now expensive as AZ has the same
 thing for 15.  only it's not the same thing!
 
 look at mike's AC compressor.
 
 http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=pgl3la45vwlnyl55pfjruyrupartnumber=1021300615
 
 like EVERYTHING at AZ, it's ON SALE.  but is this chinese behr the unit to
 get?  of the 3 widely distributed options, it is by far the worst choice
 but it is also the cheapest for AZ to buy, so it's the one they can sell
 most cheaply.  i can't sell you a real one for that price, but 20% more, so
 i am expensive while offering all the value
 
 when it is a like item, i will sell it to you for 10% over AZ.  i feel not
 ending up with a pile of crap is worth the premium.  but it often or even
 mostly won't be a like item as AZ pushes the stuff i won't even sell
 
 
 
 
 
 
 On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 7:53 AM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 Autohausaz gives free shipping for all orders over $50. They do offer some
 OEM parts but they offer no guidance. Not all OEM parts are equal. I don't
 always know which to pick. That's why I liked Rusty. He would answer all my
 questions and concerns and give me the best when I asked. He would also
 match AZ prices. I haven't ordered from Gary as of yet, but I anticipate
 the same level of service. This level of service cannot be accomplished by
 AZ.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Aug 30, 2013, at 12:07 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Silly questions, that I would've asked off-list, but are pertinent to
 all I suppose.
 One, do you ship from a parts supplier nearest your customer if you can?
 
 Do you offer free shipping on orders over xxx dollars?
 
 Do you provide a tracking number?
 
 Do you provide an email invoice with orders?
 
 Thanks,
 
 Rick
 
 Unlike the baseless accusations made on this list, autohaus az does all
 that, except I am not sure about free shipping over X dollars. That was a
 perk offered by Rusty.
 
 OEM parts are available from autohaus az if you ask for them.  NO
 problems so far.
 
 Since Q is no more, we are on our own, and I use several sources like I
 used to.  FLAPS is good for some things, as Curt can attest. Dealers
 advertising in the Star for OE parts.  AZ for the rest.
 
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 -- 
 *reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars
 
 *
 *www.BuyEUROparts.com*
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-30 Thread Gary Hurst
those bin laden casios are usable watches for about 10 bucks


On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 2:40 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Its a tough call. Mine was a $400 car which I put $300 of brakes into, I
 couldn't justify running it any higher.

 My Dad has never paid more than $10 for a watch. 20 years ago you could
 get a decent watch for $10, now he buys them 3 at a time. Seems to me he
 could buy a $30 watch and be better off but he likes having $10 watches.
 Couple years ago Angie bought me a $300 watch, best watch I'd had before
 that was $30. Is the $300 watch better than the $30? Not really, it tells
 time about the same. I have to be more careful about taking it off before I
 put my hand into a car engine...

 -Curt

 Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2013 13:21:36 -0400
 From: Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
 Message-ID:
 caciok3st5bo0ffu+vlwy79ax7ghfck6bcd9vj0hn8vpbbar...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

 sometimes it works out perfectly but all too often not. my ex wife used to
 boast about how some $7 pair of shoes were the best pair of shoes she ever
 had.  great, but does this somehow mean $7 shoes are a good idea in
 general?

 some guys are ok with enduring multiple failures for the thrill of
 sometimes getting a bargain.  i just want it right.  i don't see the point
 in messing around with generic white box chinese stuff reboxed as pbr or
 ate: when i can have the real deal for roughly the same price.  the china
 stuff might work super fine and dandy but why mess around with it when it
 so often doesn't?
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*
*www.BuyEUROparts.com*
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-30 Thread Curt Raymond
Its a tough call. Mine was a $400 car which I put $300 of brakes into, I 
couldn't justify running it any higher.

My Dad has never paid more than $10 for a watch. 20 years ago you could get a 
decent watch for $10, now he buys them 3 at a time. Seems to me he could buy a 
$30 watch and be better off but he likes having $10 watches.
Couple years ago Angie bought me a $300 watch, best watch I'd had before that 
was $30. Is the $300 watch better than the $30? Not really, it tells time about 
the same. I have to be more careful about taking it off before I put my hand 
into a car engine...

-Curt

Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2013 13:21:36 -0400
From: Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
Message-ID:
    caciok3st5bo0ffu+vlwy79ax7ghfck6bcd9vj0hn8vpbbar...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

sometimes it works out perfectly but all too often not. my ex wife used to
boast about how some $7 pair of shoes were the best pair of shoes she ever
had.  great, but does this somehow mean $7 shoes are a good idea in general?

some guys are ok with enduring multiple failures for the thrill of
sometimes getting a bargain.  i just want it right.  i don't see the point
in messing around with generic white box chinese stuff reboxed as pbr or
ate: when i can have the real deal for roughly the same price.  the china
stuff might work super fine and dandy but why mess around with it when it
so often doesn't?
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[MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread dseretakis
I finally finished the complete front brake job on the 240D today, but...it's 
still not braking quite right. On the highway, with hard braking, I get a 
pulsation. There is also quite a bit of squealing.
Here's what I did good and bad:

Good:
I used genuine MB flexible hoses, grease seals, bearing grease, left front 
bearing set, left front steel brake line. I used scale to measure grease and 
dial indicator to set bearings.

Bad:
I used remanufactured calipers, duralast pads and duralast rotors. I did this 
in the interest of time. I should have been more patient and ordered the good 
stuff from Gary! I also did not torque the lug nuts but I did use the wimpy 
factory lug wrench which can't realistically apply too much torque. I also 
didn't step on it to tighten! I've never had an issue with this approach so I 
doubt that I warped the rotors but you never know. 

What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced!

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread Curt Raymond
When I did rear pads/rotors/calipers on my '84 190D recently I used parts from 
Car Quest. One thing I noticed about the pads was that the edges weren't 
beveled but were squared off. I seem to remember the fronts I put on were 
beveled but I haven't checked. These squared off ones squealed a bit for the 
first hundred or so miles.

I'll ask the obvious question, you did put caliper grease on the pads right? 
I've heard various opinions about how much to use, I slather the stuff on. 
First time I did pads I bought a big bottle of caliper grease. The parts guy 
tried to talk me into a little tube of the stuff but I went for the big jobbie, 
haven't regretted it in the 3 brake jobs I've done.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 18:33:09 -0400
From: dsereta...@yahoo.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
Message-ID: 0ca0081e-761f-45b2-9e8d-8b83e0447...@yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=us-ascii

I finally finished the complete front brake job on the 240D today, but...it's 
still not braking quite right. On the highway, with hard braking, I get a 
pulsation. There is also quite a bit of squealing.
Here's what I did good and bad:

Good:
I used genuine MB flexible hoses, grease seals, bearing grease, left front 
bearing set, left front steel brake line. I used scale to measure grease and 
dial indicator to set bearings.

Bad:
I used remanufactured calipers, duralast pads and duralast rotors. I did this 
in the interest of time. I should have been more patient and ordered the good 
stuff from Gary! I also did not torque the lug nuts but I did use the wimpy 
factory lug wrench which can't realistically apply too much torque. I also 
didn't step on it to tighten! I've never had an issue with this approach so I 
doubt that I warped the rotors but you never know. 

What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced!

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread Rick Knoble
On Aug 29, 2013, at 5:33 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

 
 What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced!


I responded twice and the emails disappeared. Hmmm. Intercepted by the NSA ??? 
Anyway, did you bed the pads? Perhaps the rotors are inferior? 
Here is more than you want to know about the causes of brake judder. 
Thanks to Philip. 

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

Rick
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread dseretakis
Yes I used the CRC red caliper grease. I didn't slather it on though. I 
initially liked the stuff but I've noticed that it dries to a rubbery goo 
unlike the Mercedes like stuff that comes in the little packages.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 29, 2013, at 7:44 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 When I did rear pads/rotors/calipers on my '84 190D recently I used parts 
 from Car Quest. One thing I noticed about the pads was that the edges weren't 
 beveled but were squared off. I seem to remember the fronts I put on were 
 beveled but I haven't checked. These squared off ones squealed a bit for the 
 first hundred or so miles.
 
 I'll ask the obvious question, you did put caliper grease on the pads right? 
 I've heard various opinions about how much to use, I slather the stuff on. 
 First time I did pads I bought a big bottle of caliper grease. The parts guy 
 tried to talk me into a little tube of the stuff but I went for the big 
 jobbie, haven't regretted it in the 3 brake jobs I've done.
 
 -Curt
 
 Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 18:33:09 -0400
 From: dsereta...@yahoo.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
 Message-ID: 0ca0081e-761f-45b2-9e8d-8b83e0447...@yahoo.com
 Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii
 
 I finally finished the complete front brake job on the 240D today, but...it's 
 still not braking quite right. On the highway, with hard braking, I get a 
 pulsation. There is also quite a bit of squealing.
 Here's what I did good and bad:
 
 Good:
 I used genuine MB flexible hoses, grease seals, bearing grease, left front 
 bearing set, left front steel brake line. I used scale to measure grease and 
 dial indicator to set bearings.
 
 Bad:
 I used remanufactured calipers, duralast pads and duralast rotors. I did this 
 in the interest of time. I should have been more patient and ordered the good 
 stuff from Gary! I also did not torque the lug nuts but I did use the wimpy 
 factory lug wrench which can't realistically apply too much torque. I also 
 didn't step on it to tighten! I've never had an issue with this approach so I 
 doubt that I warped the rotors but you never know. 
 
 What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced!
 
 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread dseretakis
Not sure if I know anymore what bedding pads means. I initially heard that you 
should ease on the brakes but then that you should brake hard. Not being sure 
which approach to take I did do some hard abrupt braking though on the test 
drive.

The rotors may very well be inferior. They are made in China Duralasts. Can I 
check for warpage using a dial indicator to measure runout. Is there a specific 
way to do that? What are the measurements?

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 29, 2013, at 7:50 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:

 On Aug 29, 2013, at 5:33 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 
 What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced!
 
 
 I responded twice and the emails disappeared. Hmmm. Intercepted by the NSA 
 ??? Anyway, did you bed the pads? Perhaps the rotors are inferior? 
 Here is more than you want to know about the causes of brake judder. 
 Thanks to Philip. 
 
 http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths
 
 Rick
 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread Curt Raymond
I can't remember who makes the stuff I've got, Permatex problem. Its kind of 
blue/purple. I haven't had to go back and find out what it dries like. My 190D 
does make a little squeak, I can't tell if its the fronts or the rears. 
Probably the rears, I need to go back and re-slather.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 20:17:19 -0400
From: dsereta...@yahoo.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
Message-ID: 96748ef4-3b27-45bf-aaa7-fef390407...@yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=us-ascii

Yes I used the CRC red caliper grease. I didn't slather it on though. I 
initially liked the stuff but I've noticed that it dries to a rubbery goo 
unlike the Mercedes like stuff that comes in the little packages.

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread Rick Knoble

 From: dsereta...@yahoo.com
 Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 20:24:16 -0400
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

 Not sure if I know anymore what bedding pads means. I initially heard that 
 you should ease on the brakes but then that you should brake hard. Not being 
 sure which approach to take I did do some hard abrupt braking though on the 
 test drive.


The article goes into great detail about the transference of material from the 
pads to the rotors, after installing them as new.
What most people erroneously believe is a warped rotor is actually a build up 
of pad material to the rotor, causing the pedal to 
pulse when braking. Coming to a full stop whilst the brakes are new and hot can 
cause this. The article also talks about how the
composition of the iron changes as it goes through heating and cooling cycles. 

Really, read the article. It is very informative.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

Rick  
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread Rick Knoble

 From: dsereta...@yahoo.com
 Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 18:33:09 -0400
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

 What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced!

Clipped from the referenced article.

The obvious question now is is there a cure for discs with uneven 
friction material deposits? The answer is a conditional yes. If the 
vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has 
never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case, 
simply fitting a set of good semi-metallic pads and using them hard 
(after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to 
normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of 
material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting, 
vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many 
deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly.
 Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide 
abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the 
condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same 
reason. The only fix for extensive uneven deposits involves 
dismounting the discs and having them Blanchard ground - not expensive, 
but inconvenient at best. A newly ground disc will require the same sort
 of bedding in process as a new disc. The trouble with this procedure is
 that if the grinding does not remove all of the cementite inclusions, 
as the disc wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively 
soft disc and the thermal spiral starts over again. Unfortunately, the 
cementite is invisible to the naked eye. Taking time to properly 
bed your braking system pays big dividends but, as with most sins, a 
repeat of the behavior that caused the trouble will bring it right back.
Rick  
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread WILTON
'Don't mean to imply that mine was this same problem - it certainly was not, 
but I'm reminded of the '81 300D that I bought from a 94-year-old friend in 
'01.  I remembered when he bought the car new and was a bit envious - his 
ivory 123 looked much better to me than my cactus green 123 (240D).  When I 
bought it from him, the brakes squealed so badly that I thought it was metal 
on metal.  I immediately bought new pads and was ready to purchase discs if 
necessary.  When I removed wheels, though, to replace the pads, I found 
nearly-showroom pads and discs.  I asked him the next day at lunch when he'd 
had the brakes replaced.  He denied any knowledge of having done so, and 
replied, Aw, I don't ever use the brakes.  A few days of my regular 
driving and maybe even some extra braking cleared up the squealing fairly 
quickly.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2013 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco





From: dsereta...@yahoo.com
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 18:33:09 -0400
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Brake fiasco



What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced!


Clipped from the referenced article.

The obvious question now is is there a cure for discs with uneven
friction material deposits? The answer is a conditional yes. If the
vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has
never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case,
simply fitting a set of good semi-metallic pads and using them hard
(after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to
normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of
material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting,
vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many
deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly.
Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide
abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the
condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same
reason. The only fix for extensive uneven deposits involves
dismounting the discs and having them Blanchard ground - not expensive,
but inconvenient at best. A newly ground disc will require the same sort
of bedding in process as a new disc. The trouble with this procedure is
that if the grinding does not remove all of the cementite inclusions,
as the disc wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively
soft disc and the thermal spiral starts over again. Unfortunately, the
cementite is invisible to the naked eye. Taking time to properly
bed your braking system pays big dividends but, as with most sins, a
repeat of the behavior that caused the trouble will bring it right back.
Rick
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread WILTON

'Said discs, meant rotors.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2013 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco


'Don't mean to imply that mine was this same problem - it certainly was 
not, but I'm reminded of the '81 300D that I bought from a 94-year-old 
friend in '01.  I remembered when he bought the car new and was a bit 
envious - his ivory 123 looked much better to me than my cactus green 123 
(240D).  When I bought it from him, the brakes squealed so badly that I 
thought it was metal on metal.  I immediately bought new pads and was 
ready to purchase discs if necessary.  When I removed wheels, though, to 
replace the pads, I found nearly-showroom pads and discs.  I asked him the 
next day at lunch when he'd had the brakes replaced.  He denied any 
knowledge of having done so, and replied, Aw, I don't ever use the 
brakes.  A few days of my regular driving and maybe even some extra 
braking cleared up the squealing fairly quickly.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2013 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco





From: dsereta...@yahoo.com
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 18:33:09 -0400
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Brake fiasco



What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced!


Clipped from the referenced article.

The obvious question now is is there a cure for discs with uneven
friction material deposits? The answer is a conditional yes. If the
vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has
never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case,
simply fitting a set of good semi-metallic pads and using them hard
(after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to
normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of
material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting,
vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many
deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly.
Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide
abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the
condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same
reason. The only fix for extensive uneven deposits involves
dismounting the discs and having them Blanchard ground - not expensive,
but inconvenient at best. A newly ground disc will require the same sort
of bedding in process as a new disc. The trouble with this procedure is
that if the grinding does not remove all of the cementite inclusions,
as the disc wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively
soft disc and the thermal spiral starts over again. Unfortunately, the
cementite is invisible to the naked eye. Taking time to properly
bed your braking system pays big dividends but, as with most sins, a
repeat of the behavior that caused the trouble will bring it right back.
Rick
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread Greg Fiorentino
You must brake in your new breaks!

Greg

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
dsereta...@yahoo.com
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2013 3:33 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

I finally finished the complete front brake job on the 240D today,
but...it's still not braking quite right. On the highway, with hard braking,
I get a pulsation. There is also quite a bit of squealing.
Here's what I did good and bad:

Good:
I used genuine MB flexible hoses, grease seals, bearing grease, left front
bearing set, left front steel brake line. I used scale to measure grease and
dial indicator to set bearings.

Bad:
I used remanufactured calipers, duralast pads and duralast rotors. I did
this in the interest of time. I should have been more patient and ordered
the good stuff from Gary! I also did not torque the lug nuts but I did use
the wimpy factory lug wrench which can't realistically apply too much
torque. I also didn't step on it to tighten! I've never had an issue with
this approach so I doubt that I warped the rotors but you never know. 

What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced!

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread Peter Frederick
One way to eliminate the squeak is to stick with OEM pads, as they  
have the anti-squeal material bonded to the back of the pad.  Cheap  
aftermarkets with plain metal backing plates (no layer of hard plastic  
on the piston side) will probably squeal no matter what you do, and  
glueing them to the rotors with Permatex is only going to make them  
very hard to remove.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread dseretakis
Good point about the backing on OEM pads. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 29, 2013, at 10:02 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:

 One way to eliminate the squeak is to stick with OEM pads, as they have the 
 anti-squeal material bonded to the back of the pad.  Cheap aftermarkets with 
 plain metal backing plates (no layer of hard plastic on the piston side) will 
 probably squeal no matter what you do, and glueing them to the rotors with 
 Permatex is only going to make them very hard to remove.
 
 Peter
 
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread dseretakis
I remember reading that article a few years ago and found it very interesting. 
I will re-read it though to refresh.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 29, 2013, at 8:59 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:

 
 From: dsereta...@yahoo.com
 Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 20:24:16 -0400
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
 
 Not sure if I know anymore what bedding pads means. I initially heard that 
 you should ease on the brakes but then that you should brake hard. Not being 
 sure which approach to take I did do some hard abrupt braking though on the 
 test drive.
 
 The article goes into great detail about the transference of material from 
 the pads to the rotors, after installing them as new.
 What most people erroneously believe is a warped rotor is actually a build up 
 of pad material to the rotor, causing the pedal to 
 pulse when braking. Coming to a full stop whilst the brakes are new and hot 
 can cause this. The article also talks about how the
 composition of the iron changes as it goes through heating and cooling 
 cycles. 
 
 Really, read the article. It is very informative.
 
 http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths
 
 Rick 
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread Peter Frederick
Since I usually get 60,000 miles on  a set of pads, OEM is fine for  
me.  Thats roughly a set of fronts every three years, rears every six.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread WILTON
Brakes on friend's/my 81 300D were OEM; squealed with me a first 'cause he 
hadn't used 'em.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2013 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco


One way to eliminate the squeak is to stick with OEM pads, as they  have 
the anti-squeal material bonded to the back of the pad.  Cheap 
aftermarkets with plain metal backing plates (no layer of hard plastic  on 
the piston side) will probably squeal no matter what you do, and  glueing 
them to the rotors with Permatex is only going to make them  very hard to 
remove.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread Gary Hurst
my philosophy on brake stuff is really simple.  i sell either original
compound (textar/pagid or, rarely, jurid) or akebono ceramics.  in terms of
rotors, i sell only the german stuff, zimmermann and balo, with a strong
preference towards the coated versions.  back in the day i'd sell ate
powerdiscs and brembo too. but since production has been moved to china,
i've avoided them as they are charging the same today for chinese blanks
finished in china as they used to be for italian blanks finished in
europe.  i also find cross drilled rotors stupid and never sell them unless
someone just flat out insists they MUST have them

i wouldn't even sell rebuilt calipers for years but nobody wants to pay for
new today.  i like a particular california rebuilder best, but i still
really prefer new.  there is no way around the rebuilts being essentially
just used calipers cleaned up and resealed.  as for hoses, i've never had
an issue either with original/ate oem ones (expensive) or your febi type
aftermarket (a lot cheaper).  i do push original though as they aren't that
much more money when i can get them in OEM ate


On Thu, Aug 29, 2013 at 8:24 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Not sure if I know anymore what bedding pads means. I initially heard that
 you should ease on the brakes but then that you should brake hard. Not
 being sure which approach to take I did do some hard abrupt braking though
 on the test drive.

 The rotors may very well be inferior. They are made in China Duralasts.
 Can I check for warpage using a dial indicator to measure runout. Is there
 a specific way to do that? What are the measurements?

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 29, 2013, at 7:50 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:

  On Aug 29, 2013, at 5:33 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 
  What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced!
 
 
  I responded twice and the emails disappeared. Hmmm. Intercepted by the
 NSA ??? Anyway, did you bed the pads? Perhaps the rotors are inferior?
  Here is more than you want to know about the causes of brake judder.
  Thanks to Philip.
 
 
 http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths
 
  Rick
  Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread Gary Hurst
two things in life often don't  work out well:

1.  rushing
2.  cheaping out

when you do either it generally ends up taking longer and costing more
money, but we have moved to a society that values fast and cheap above
all.  in this case, we learn about rushing.  you can't rush anymore as
there is a lot of outright crap being sold as people enjoy making 500%
margins while offering the lowest price at the same time.  (in fact,THIS is
the only road to success today, but that is a topic for another time).  one
simply cannot rush today and expect it to work out with any consistency.
and there often isn't even that much of a delay as parts are often
delivered in one or two business days.

cheaping out is similarly problematic.  penoff sent me a customer recently
who wanted a deal on a water pump on a W115 300D.  i told him that rather
than search for a low price on the standard geba pump all the front end
sites push, he ought to buy a hepu as those are MUCH better in this
application than the mediocre geba and that i'd sell him one for like 10
bucks more than a geba.  a few days later he emails to solicit advise as
he is having fitment problems with the geba he bought from the low bidder.
what did he save by cheaping out?  the bottom line is that going and buying
a pile of garbage at autohausAZ is not really the best value, sort of like
buying shoes at walmart.  sometimes it works out but often it does not

someone was shocked today to learn that the bucket hat i wear all the time
(yeah, i'm a fashion icon) cost over 60 bucks in a world where walmart and
the flea market sell bucket hats for under 10 dollars all day long.  i
didn't care to explain it and just said man, did i get taken! but the
reality is that it is hemp watership that has been worn pretty much daily
by me for 4 years.  it has been washed hundreds of times.  it will probably
last several years more and odds are the i will lose it before i wear it
out.


On Thu, Aug 29, 2013 at 6:33 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I finally finished the complete front brake job on the 240D today,
 but...it's still not braking quite right. On the highway, with hard
 braking, I get a pulsation. There is also quite a bit of squealing.
 Here's what I did good and bad:

 Good:
 I used genuine MB flexible hoses, grease seals, bearing grease, left front
 bearing set, left front steel brake line. I used scale to measure grease
 and dial indicator to set bearings.

 Bad:
 I used remanufactured calipers, duralast pads and duralast rotors. I did
 this in the interest of time. I should have been more patient and ordered
 the good stuff from Gary! I also did not torque the lug nuts but I did use
 the wimpy factory lug wrench which can't realistically apply too much
 torque. I also didn't step on it to tighten! I've never had an issue with
 this approach so I doubt that I warped the rotors but you never know.

 What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced!

 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread Rick Knoble
On Aug 29, 2013, at 10:22 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:

 and there often isn't even that much of a delay as parts are often
 delivered in one or two business days.


Silly questions, that I would've asked off-list, but are pertinent to all I 
suppose. 
One, do you ship from a parts supplier nearest your customer if you can? 

Do you offer free shipping on orders over xxx dollars? 

Do you provide a tracking number? 

Do you provide an email invoice with orders?

Thanks,

Rick
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread Dieselhead
Silly questions, that I would've asked off-list, but are pertinent 
to all I suppose.

One, do you ship from a parts supplier nearest your customer if you can?

Do you offer free shipping on orders over xxx dollars?

Do you provide a tracking number?

Do you provide an email invoice with orders?

Thanks,

Rick


Unlike the baseless accusations made on this list, autohaus az does 
all that, except I am not sure about free shipping over X dollars. 
That was a perk offered by Rusty.


OEM parts are available from autohaus az if you ask for them.  NO 
problems so far.


Since Q is no more, we are on our own, and I use several sources like 
I used to.  FLAPS is good for some things, as Curt can attest. 
Dealers advertising in the Star for OE parts.  AZ for the rest.


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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2013-08-29 Thread Gary Hurst
usually i ship the best parts i can without regard to location.  so, for
example, i really like those previously mentioned dallas made R4 AC
compressors, so i sent mike esh one of those even though i had access to
really good air products compressors 200 miles from his home.  i did this
because he was ok with getting it next week.  if he said he needed it today
and didn't want to pay some freight, i'd have offered him the air products
one out of chicago instead.  if, however, all i had available in chicago
were the ubiquitous chinese behrs i'd have warned them that those were not
the best but would have shipped if he wanted them.  i guess there is a lot
of communication with the buyer so where it is shipped from is flexible,
but generally i recommend quality over speed (but speed is possible for
nearly all orders without additional charge with minor sacrifices in
quality.  i generally will not allow major sacrifices in quality though)

i've always done free shipping over $99 but there is flexibility there.
sometimes i'll give you partial discounts on shipping or even free shipping
under 99.  bill wachsmuth spent like 70 bucks on parts yesterday and the
actual shipping was 10, but i charged him only 5.  but as a general rule
expect to pay some freight below 99 dollars and expect to pay none above
that figure

yes, i email tracking numbers when i know them

i email invoices for those who want them.  most of my business is conducted
in email, so there is a record there and a formal invoice would be
redundant.  web orders automatically generate invoices.  phone orders will
nearly always have an invoice emailed so there is a clear record of the
transaction.  i mean, say you buy an air filter and then your car blows up
3 weeks later without it having been installed.  how do i know how much to
refund you on a return unless that clear record is created?


On Thu, Aug 29, 2013 at 11:49 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.comwrote:

 On Aug 29, 2013, at 10:22 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:

  and there often isn't even that much of a delay as parts are often
  delivered in one or two business days.


 Silly questions, that I would've asked off-list, but are pertinent to all
 I suppose.
 One, do you ship from a parts supplier nearest your customer if you can?

 Do you offer free shipping on orders over xxx dollars?

 Do you provide a tracking number?

 Do you provide an email invoice with orders?

 Thanks,

 Rick
 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco (was: grrr. siezed caliper)

2009-08-31 Thread Curt Raymond
Always replace calipers in pairs. I didn't once and had a terrible pull

Has the car sat a lot? What you're looking at sounds an awful lot like my 240D 
last fall. It'd sat nearly a year and it was a BEAR to work on...

-Curt

Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 18:14:31 -0400
From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
Subject: [MBZ] Brake fiasco (was:   grrr.  siezed caliper)
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: m1iqg52blk.fsf...@cs.indiana.edu
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Well after accepting defeat at trying to find a rear caliper locally on
a Sunday, I moved on to the fronts.  BOTH calipers had rusted, siezed
inboard pistons.  And looking at the front rotors they seem to be going
the way of the rears (look OK on the front side but badly rusted on the
inboard surface (probably because the pistons are siezed and they're not
getting any braking action on that side).

So Monday it's going to be an order for new front rotors and calipers
from Rusty.  Fronts mean I need to repack the front bearings... ugh.
I'm thinking I might as well replace that other rear caliper too, all
the calipers are the same age (I was thinking two years but it might be
three) just to avoid problems.

I've never had calipers sieze up like that before on any other car,
foreign or domestic.  Wondering why these all went bad so quickly.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D


  
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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco (was: grrr. siezed caliper)

2009-08-31 Thread Allan Streib
On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 10:00 -0700, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Has the car sat a lot? What you're looking at sounds an awful lot
 like my 240D last fall. It'd sat nearly a year and it was a BEAR to
 work on...

Well, not that long.  There was a period earlier this year where I did
not drive it for maybe a month or so.  And it was sitting outside during
that time.

That's actually when I started noticing brake problems, initially I
thought it was just normal surface rust on the rotors but it never
cleared up.

Allan
--
1983 300D

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[MBZ] Brake fiasco (was: grrr. siezed caliper)

2009-08-30 Thread Allan Streib
Well after accepting defeat at trying to find a rear caliper locally on
a Sunday, I moved on to the fronts.  BOTH calipers had rusted, siezed
inboard pistons.  And looking at the front rotors they seem to be going
the way of the rears (look OK on the front side but badly rusted on the
inboard surface (probably because the pistons are siezed and they're not
getting any braking action on that side).

So Monday it's going to be an order for new front rotors and calipers
from Rusty.  Fronts mean I need to repack the front bearings... ugh.
I'm thinking I might as well replace that other rear caliper too, all
the calipers are the same age (I was thinking two years but it might be
three) just to avoid problems.

I've never had calipers sieze up like that before on any other car,
foreign or domestic.  Wondering why these all went bad so quickly.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco (was: grrr. siezed caliper)

2009-08-30 Thread Fmiser
 Allan Streib wrote:

 I've never had calipers sieze up like that before on any other
 car, foreign or domestic.  Wondering why these all went bad so
 quickly.

Dust boots installed and in good shape?

Using water instead of brake fluid?

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco (was: grrr. siezed caliper)

2009-08-30 Thread Jim Cathey

I've never had calipers sieze up like that before on any other car,
foreign or domestic.  Wondering why these all went bad so quickly.


Been driving on salted winter roads?

Since they've started salting here, which they did not do
when I first moved here, many things automotive are much
worse than they were.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco (was: grrr. siezed caliper)

2009-08-30 Thread Peter Frederick
Common problem on a previously neglected Benz -- failure to replace  
the rotors when they are too thin.  On the W126 and prior chassis,  
all the calipers have an anti-rattle spring on top, and when the  
rotors are too thin and the pads are badly worn, the backing plate  
will hit the spring.  This cocks the piston, and since the inside  
pads usually wear faster than the outers, the pistons get stuck and  
can rust in place after they overheat and fry the dust boot.


I've had this on three or four cars already -- and on my Volvo with  
the same ATE rear calipers.  They are not American rotors, which are  
way over-thick so that they last the lifetime of the car and can be  
resurfaced.  Worse, sometimes people turn the rotors on a Benz to  
save money, and that makes the problem worse.


Do, also, change fluid every two years or when you change pads --  
very easy with a MitiVac.  Old fluid collects water and promotes  
corrosion and the presence of crud, which will also lock the pistons up.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2009-08-30 Thread Allan Streib
Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net writes:

 Common problem on a previously neglected Benz -- failure to replace
 the rotors when they are too thin.

This could explain the rears -- I did not put new rotors on when I
installed the calipers last time.  On the fronts, though, the rotors and
calipers were new together.

I'm with Jim, it's probably the winter salt, but I don't understand why
none of my other cars have had this problem.  They all get driven in the
salt.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco

2009-08-30 Thread Peter Frederick

It is odd.

In the future, may I suggest what my buddy the mechanic does?

When he does an oil change for a customer he pulls all the brake  
pads, cleans up the calipers, and puts a bit of anti-seize on the  
sides of the backing plates.  Of course, he has the car on a lift, so  
it's easy, and takes just about the same amount of time it takes for  
the oil to all drain out.  Does a quick underside inspection, too --  
brakes, driveline, suspension parts, etc.


I try to remember to do this on the 300D, as the rear brakes tend to  
rust into place otherwise.


I'd forgotten earlier to mention this -- always coat the sides of the  
backing plate (not the friction material, of course) with some MB  
brake paste or anti-seize (the same thing).  Make absolutely positive  
that the slots the pads fit into a completely rust free and clean, as  
otherwise the pads can rust into place or jam on the crud, causing  
them to drag.  Dragging causes them to overheat, and that kills the  
rubber dust boot, so the piston gets stuck from grit.


Not really a big deal, and much less hassle than all new calipers.

I do also recommend changing  the brake fluid often.

Peter

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