Re: [MBZ] In praise of ATE brakes

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Used to use!  My 124 has Girlings on the front and you have to take the 
whole caliper out to change pads.   Muey Stupido!



fmiser via Mercedes 
December 27, 2016 at 4:18 PM

Curley wrote:



All these other crap brands you have to take off the frickin
calipers. Mooey stupido!


Single piston vs dual piston that MB uses.


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Re: [MBZ] In praise of ATE brakes

[fmiser via Mercedes]

Curley wrote:



All these other crap brands you have to take off the frickin
calipers. Mooey stupido!


Single piston vs dual piston that MB uses.

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Re: [MBZ] In praise of ATE brakes

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

Other than screwing in the calipers the brakes on an A4 Golf are super easy. 
Grease the pins, mine is the only car I've ever seen stuck pins on...
Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Mon, Dec 26, 2016 at 7:42 PM, Peter Frederick via 
Mercedes wrote:   Gotta do the brakes on the Golf this 
week, same deal on the rear  
brakes (it's the screw type parking brake that causes the issue, but  
you don't have the drum brake parking brake to deal with).

Not really looking forward to it, but it's gotta be done.

First major thing on the Golf since I got almost two years ago.  Will  
need a timing belt soon, but that won't be done by me, I think.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] In praise of ATE brakes

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Now that I know the trick, i will move faster next time. The second 
front took maybe 15 min and the second rear, maybe an hour.  It first 
rear probably took 2.5 and killed 4, between taking breaks before and 
after youboob sessions and trying to figure out the boot stuck to the 
puck.  (Going back to look for more tools, neverseeze, etc.)


The last time I changed the fronts I think the whole deal was an hour or 
hour and a half.  That included now rotors again.   The good thing was 
that I did not have to break into my regular tool box.  I have been 
slowly stocking tools at #1daughter's house.  I think it is near stocked 
for normal stuff.  I still carry my regular box everywhere, and the 
cordless drill kit. (except the charger this time.  THAT was a mistake!)


I didn't bring an air rattle rench because I brought the 'lectric one.   
Got here, bot batteries were dead flat.  The charger I left here walked 
60 miles away.  I left the charger I normally carry because I knew I had 
a charger here.   So I had to take off and put on all the lug nuts the 
manual way.  I need to bring a rattle rench (air) here and just leave it.


I think 4 yrs for nicads is good, but some folks claim their dewalts 
lasted 9 or 10 years.  Probably the high AH battery packs, not the 1.5 
or 2 AH they give ya with the $99 tools.  4 yrs is WAY better than any 
other nicad i've had.  PB batteries lasted about a year, motorola 
batteries about the same.



Peter Frederick via Mercedes 
December 26, 2016 at 6:42 PM
Gotta do the brakes on the Golf this week, same deal on the rear 
brakes (it's the screw type parking brake that causes the issue, but 
you don't have the drum brake parking brake to deal with).


Not really looking forward to it, but it's gotta be done.

First major thing on the Golf since I got almost two years ago.  Will 
need a timing belt soon, but that won't be done by me, I think.


Peter

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Curley McLain 
December 26, 2016 at 4:30 PM
Had to change out the new ceramic pads on the dogde van.  That thing 
eats pads, at least ceramic ones.  In 85k miles, I think I have 
changed front pads 3 times and rotors twice.  Somehow this time I got 
metallic pads in place of ceramic.  I will try them.  They can't be 
worse!


This time I changed the rear pads too  What a pain.  I know the ATE 
drum emergency brakes are a pain, but these crypsler rear disks are a 
pain.  I finally had to go to you boob to find out how to get the puck 
compressed.  (Special tool or needlenose pliers and a screwdriver.)  I 
opted for the latter.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AcPJ-MPUu0M

You screw the puck in.  All fine and dandy when they do it on a new 
car to write the book!  In the Real World (RW) the boot rusts to the 
puck and this does not work.  I am sure the stealer would put on a new 
caliper for $200 plus labor at this point.  I opted to pry the boot 
out of the groove in the puck, then screw the puck in.  Then the boot 
won't go  in the groove.   Screw the puck out, apply neverseeze in the 
groove, stick the boot in the groove and hope this lubes it enough 
that the boot will slide in the groove.  It DOES!For the second 
side, i pull out about 25% of the boot, stick neverseexe in the 
groove, put the boot back in and turn in the puck.  This side (Driver) 
was not rusted as bad.  IT WORKED!


As long as you don't have to mess with the parking brake shoes in ATE 
calipers, they are way easier!  Shove the pucks back, knock out the 
pins, pull the old pads, put in the new pads, put in the pins, add 
wear indicators if necessary or wanted and off ya go!


All these other crap brands you have to take off the frickin 
calipers.  Mooey stupido!


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Re: [MBZ] In praise of ATE brakes

[Peter Frederick via Mercedes]

Gotta do the brakes on the Golf this week, same deal on the rear  
brakes (it's the screw type parking brake that causes the issue, but  
you don't have the drum brake parking brake to deal with).


Not really looking forward to it, but it's gotta be done.

First major thing on the Golf since I got almost two years ago.  Will  
need a timing belt soon, but that won't be done by me, I think.


Peter

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[MBZ] In praise of ATE brakes

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Had to change out the new ceramic pads on the dogde van.  That thing 
eats pads, at least ceramic ones.  In 85k miles, I think I have changed 
front pads 3 times and rotors twice.  Somehow this time I got metallic 
pads in place of ceramic.  I will try them.  They can't be worse!


This time I changed the rear pads too  What a pain.  I know the ATE drum 
emergency brakes are a pain, but these crypsler rear disks are a pain.  
I finally had to go to you boob to find out how to get the puck 
compressed.  (Special tool or needlenose pliers and a screwdriver.)  I 
opted for the latter.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AcPJ-MPUu0M

You screw the puck in.  All fine and dandy when they do it on a new car 
to write the book!  In the Real World (RW) the boot rusts to the puck 
and this does not work.  I am sure the stealer would put on a new 
caliper for $200 plus labor at this point.  I opted to pry the boot out 
of the groove in the puck, then screw the puck in.  Then the boot won't 
go  in the groove.   Screw the puck out, apply neverseeze in the groove, 
stick the boot in the groove and hope this lubes it enough that the boot 
will slide in the groove.  It DOES!For the second side, i pull out 
about 25% of the boot, stick neverseexe in the groove, put the boot back 
in and turn in the puck.  This side (Driver) was not rusted as bad.  IT 
WORKED!


As long as you don't have to mess with the parking brake shoes in ATE 
calipers, they are way easier!  Shove the pucks back, knock out the 
pins, pull the old pads, put in the new pads, put in the pins, add wear 
indicators if necessary or wanted and off ya go!


All these other crap brands you have to take off the frickin calipers.  
Mooey stupido!


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