Well played, sir.
On Sat, Aug 17, 2019, 9:26 AM Frederick Moir via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Or not.
>
> On Sat, Aug 17, 2019 at 11:41 AM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > That sucks when it happens
> >
> > --FT
> >
> > On 8/16/19 9:31 PM, Kaleb C
Or not.
On Sat, Aug 17, 2019 at 11:41 AM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> That sucks when it happens
>
> --FT
>
> On 8/16/19 9:31 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
> > ...Will be destroyed by a bad master cylinder.
> >
> >
> > ---
> > This email has been checke
That sucks when it happens
--FT
On 8/16/19 9:31 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
...Will be destroyed by a bad master cylinder.
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On Fri, 16 Aug 2019 22:35:21 -0400 Max Dillon via Mercedes
wrote:
> No. Bad booster?
> --
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
Maybe bad master cylinder
which caused bad booster
which caused bad vacuum pump?
Craig
> On August 16, 2019 9:31:00 PM EDT, "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
> wrote:
> >.
No. Bad booster?
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
On August 16, 2019 9:31:00 PM EDT, "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
wrote:
>...Will be destroyed by a bad master cylinder.
>
>
>---
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>https://www.avg.com
>
>
>___
>h
...Will be destroyed by a bad master cylinder.
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> Actually you should change it regularly. If you do a lot of service, it's
> almost monthly. There are guidelines which I don't remember, but I do
> remember them surprising me at how often it should be changed.
I'm not sure either, but for somebody who uses it once or twice a year, or
might le
ercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2013 3:11 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Vacuum pump oil
Those who have vac pumps for A/C service, what do you do for pump oil?
All my local options are in the $15-20 per quart range.
Advance Auto had a clearance sale on Robinaire oil for $6.99, but not in
Those who have vac pumps for A/C service, what do you do for pump oil?
All my local options are in the $15-20 per quart range.
Advance Auto had a clearance sale on Robinaire oil for $6.99, but not in
the stores. I'd have to order a case of 12, which is way more than a
lifetime supply.
I found Mobi
Again, good to hear!
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 13, 2013, at 10:22 AM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> The crank sprocket would last at least 500k in an OM621. They will last
> longer in 616/617. You will wear out 2-3 crank sprockets before you will
> wear out the cam and timing s
Can it be replaced later without breaking the chain apart?
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 13, 2013, at 9:48 AM, Max Dillon wrote:
> Chain and sprocket wear together, but the socket wears much more slowly.
> Take a look while you're there, easy to replace later if needed. Keep in
> mind that if
The crank sprocket would last at least 500k in an OM621. They will
last longer in 616/617. You will wear out 2-3 crank sprockets before
you will wear out the cam and timing sprockets. I'd check cam and
timing sprockets at a million miles.
Chain and sprocket wear together, but the socket w
Chain and sprocket wear together, but the socket wears much more slowly. Take
a look while you're there, easy to replace later if needed. Keep in mind that
if this cam sprocket is worn, so will the IP timer sprocket and the crank
sprocket. Those are not so easy to replace.
--
Max Dillon
Char
What about cam sprocket? What's likelihood of wear on that at 250K miles?
Sent from my iPhone
Zero
Never heard of one needing to be replaced.
I have replaced one crank sprocket, but it has twice the engagement,
and more torque on it.
___
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What about cam sprocket? What's likelihood of wear on that at 250K miles?
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 12, 2013, at 9:04 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> The lower rails in the block don't wear much. At 250k the banana rail is a
> tossup. I'd order a new one, and not feel bad if I
The lower rails in the block don't wear much. At 250k the banana
rail is a tossup. I'd order a new one, and not feel bad if I didn't
use it. I have some extra rails I didn't use on the M116. Too hard
to get to in the block, and on inspection, not worn badly; so I
didn't use them. On the
Ok good to know. I wont bother with lower rails then. To change the banana
rail, it looks like the cam sprocket has to be removed. Should I just order a
new one or use old? Not sure about wear. Car has around 250K miles.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 12, 2013, at 6:27 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gma
Generally, you don't change the rails in the block unless you have
the block out to work on it. You can change the banana rail with the
head on, but the others...forget about it. If the engine had 400k
or 500k miles on it, that'd be a different story. at under 250k
there should be no rea
Well if it is like the 300D you just need to remove the pump from the
front of the block, undoing 6 or 8 cap screws (a wobble socket extender
works well) then take it off. Make sure everything is clean so no crap
falls in the hole. Putting it back on it helps to rotate the engine so
the cam i
240D
On Sat, Jan 12, 2013 at 5:10 PM, Rich Thomas
wrote:
> what kind of car is it? On the TD and the SD you basically just undo the
> cap screws holding it on, after you get some stuff out of the way.
>
> --R
>
> On 1/11/13 6:35 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>> So planning ahead on my timin
what kind of car is it? On the TD and the SD you basically just undo
the cap screws holding it on, after you get some stuff out of the way.
--R
On 1/11/13 6:35 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
So planning ahead on my timing chain replacement, I'm wondering what is
involved removing the vacuum
So planning ahead on my timing chain replacement, I'm wondering what is
involved removing the vacuum pump. The shop manual (BBB) states that removing
the pump is necessary to replace the lower two slide rails but I can't find the
procedure for its removal in the manual. Also, these rails are dow
Mine also came with oil.
Used it ten or twelve times so far with no problem. It
also does an oil change much faster than a shopvac.
The motor on a shopvac seems to get quite hot when doing
oil changes. (Too hot?)
Autozone tools have been OK so far. (Sears is a long drive.)
Gerry
'83 300D
'83 24
#6 is the straightest. it is most subject to the vibration. the others
have more bends to absorb the stress. same as putting a coil in the
line to/from a compressor.
On 11/15/09 2:19 AM, Peter Frederick wrote:
Brown line is supply, brown with blue stripe goes to the servo.
Yes, there are t
you have the 2 vacuum lines reversed.
Michael Esh wrote:
Thank you both for the info. I have corrected the problem, it was a
leaky connection under the dash.
Now I have a new problem. The car will not continue running after I
hook up the vacuum line the allows the key to shut off the engine.
Brown line is supply, brown with blue stripe goes to the servo.
Unless somebody reversed them at the valve when they
had it apart!
-- Jim
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I think Peter explained it well enough, but if not, I'll give it a shot.
When in stop position, the two lines are connected by the keyswitch valve, and
it doesn't matter which is which. In the run position, the shutoff valve side is
open to atmosphere and the vacuum source side is closed off. T
Brown line is supply, brown with blue stripe goes to the servo.
Yes, there are two lines to the keyswitch.
Peter
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Now I have a new problem. The car will not continue running after I
hook up the vacuum line the allows the key to shut off the engine. If
I disconnect the line the car will start but not shut off.
Lines reversed to the vacuum valve on the keyswitch?
Due to the venting required while the car i
Can you tell that I am novice ? There are two lines to the ignition?
Does anyone have a vacuum diagram for a 1985 300TD Wagon? There is a
lot more stuff under the hood on an 85 compared to the 82.
Thanks
Mike
On Nov 14, 2009, at 9:36 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:
Lines reversed at the igniti
Lines reversed at the ignition switch?
Mitch.
Michael Esh wrote:
Thank you both for the info. I have corrected the problem, it was a
leaky connection under the dash.
Now I have a new problem. The car will not continue running after I
hook up the vacuum line the allows the key to shut off the
Thank you both for the info. I have corrected the problem, it was a
leaky connection under the dash.
Now I have a new problem. The car will not continue running after I
hook up the vacuum line the allows the key to shut off the engine. If
I disconnect the line the car will start but not sh
My auto shutoff is and not working correctly...about 5 pounds
of vacuum when I check it.
You might find the vacuum parts of our old 240D's saga interesting:
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb240d.html
A lot of wasted effort that was, in the end, solved with
a drill bit.
-- Jim
10-12" mercury at idle.
Check for a cracked main line where all the secondary lines attach,
this is a common failure and results in poor power brake reserve and
low vac to everything else. A bad brake booster (split diaphragm)
will also result in low vac, although usually with a fairly har
My auto shutoff is and not working correctly. The car will not shut
off on its own. If I add vacuum to the line with a hand vacuum pump
the engine shuts off.
I do have about 5 pounds of vacuum when I check it. With every thing
blocked off, how much vacuum should the pump be pulling?
Than
cedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump assembly question
To continue talking to myself on this thread -- I decided that maybe
the little tabs on the retaining disc were bent, just enough to not
engage the lip on the pipe adapter. I gently hammered the tabs, and
either they WERE b
To continue talking to myself on this thread -- I decided that maybe
the little tabs on the retaining disc were bent, just enough to not
engage the lip on the pipe adapter. I gently hammered the tabs, and
either they WERE bent a little, or the hammering flattened and
elongated them enough to engag
Allan Streib <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
> Well this photo from Rusty's catalog seems to show that little
> three-tabbed disc inside the body of the adapter...
>
> http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/D301225391OES.JPG
>
> Guess somehow mine came apart. I'll see if I can get it back
> together.
Well this photo from Rusty's catalog seems to show that little
three-tabbed disc inside the body of the adapter...
http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/D301225391OES.JPG
Guess somehow mine came apart. I'll see if I can get it back
together. Perhaps this was really my problem all along
All
Hm, that was supposed to have the following text as well
tom savage <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
> It has been a year or three since I rebuilt my vacuum pump, but it
> sounds like a fallen-apart check valve? Didn't the kit come with
> new valves?
The old valves are all intact. These parts came
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: 0617082155.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 29703 bytes
Desc: parts
Url :
http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20080617/e05999d3/attachment.jpg
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For new parts see offic
Allan Streib wrote:
> So -- I took my vacuum pump apart to install the repair kit parts.
>
> In the main pump body there is a brass adapter for the connection of
> the vacuum line. Behind or in this adapter seems to be some kind of
> check valve mechanism.
>
> I have three parts that came out of
So -- I took my vacuum pump apart to install the repair kit parts.
In the main pump body there is a brass adapter for the connection of
the vacuum line. Behind or in this adapter seems to be some kind of
check valve mechanism.
I have three parts that came out of the bore where that adapter
threa
Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
> Mine did. Same symptoms as yours. 82 SD, happened at ca 290k
I'm only at about 185K miles. Still, 25 years old, assuming it's
original. Did you repair it or put on a new pump? Quite a difference
in price between the new pump and the repair kit.
Current
Mine did. Same symptoms as yours. 82 SD, happened at ca 290k
Dan
On Jun 13, 2008, at 9:18 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> So now I'm thinking that my vacuum pump is failing. Do they normally
> exhibit this sort of intermittent operation when that happens?
__
I use one and have no issues. The only time I have issues is when I apply more
than 5psi or so to the ex-helium tank to help push the contents back out. It
can create quite the mess VERY quickly...
Luther
On Thu, 08 May 2008 05:56:59 -0500, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> LarryT
The container collapse is your visual cue that all is well in the vacuum
world. I have mine finely calibrated so I know precisely how much vac
it is pulling.
--R
Mitch Haley wrote:
> Wilton Strickland wrote:
>
>> If the oil sucker pump pulls too much vacuum, reduce it with an additional
>>
Wilton Strickland wrote:
>
> If the oil sucker pump pulls too much vacuum, reduce it with an additional
> opening in the vac hose - not the oil evac tube - the vac hose from pump/vac
> to the oil receiver tank.
I've decided to build mine with a scrap of standard 1/2" ID x 5/8" OD copper
house plu
'Doesn't take much vacuum to SIPHON hot oil. Whatever vacuum the "pump"
produces can be VERY easily regulated.
Wilton
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If the oil sucker pump pulls too much vacuum, reduce it with an additional
opening in the vac hose - not the oil evac tube - the vac hose from pump/vac
to the oil receiver tank.
BTW, 5/8 x 3/8 is a standard hose.
Wilton
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For new par
er. The blue type is thicker so the OD appears to be the same or
maybe slightly smaller but the difference is really small.
-Curt
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 08:55:05 -0400
From: "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump for Oil Sucker
To: "Mercedes Discussion List&
bs
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Rich Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 8:28 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump for Oil Sucker
>
>
>
>> Y'all are really
t;[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump for Oil Sucker
> Y'all are really overthinking the $2 sucker -- just use a shop vac (even
> my little portable works well).
>
> --R
>
> Mitch Hal
Vacuum and Volume do not belong in the same sentence. How can you have an
amount of nothing?
Max vacuum is 1 atmosphere, period dot. after 32" it come only with
sophisticated equipment.
The reason you draw a vacuum in an A/C unit is to get rid the the water. You
can not pull a deep vacuum i
Y'all are really overthinking the $2 sucker -- just use a shop vac (even
my little portable works well).
--R
Mitch Haley wrote:
> I just had a wonderful thought about using the venturi vac pump:
> My air compressor has a regulated output. All I have to do it
> dial down the air pressure to set t
I just had a wonderful thought about using the venturi vac pump:
My air compressor has a regulated output. All I have to do it
dial down the air pressure to set the vacuum wherever I want it.
And the $8 vac pump is lightweight, compact, and I can probably find
a way to mount it to the lid of my p
LarryT wrote:
>
> Thx Mitch -
> Actually I failed to mention the pump is supposed to work with ACs - altho I
> suspect it would be marginal at best - but I understand your concern that it
> may pull too much vacuum and collapse my vacuum container.
You need a restriction to pull bucket bending
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PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net
800-583-8601
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- Original Message -
From: "Mitch Haley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 6:56 AM
Subject: R
LarryT wrote:
>
> Howdy -
> Since my Topsider has a hose problem I thought I'd build one this time
> and ran across this Air Vacuum Pump at Harbor Freight Tools for $8.50 (pn
> 96677-2AYE) -- the Key on the catalog is AY9556.
Those things can pull a pretty good vacuum. Not really good enough
Howdy -
Since my Topsider has a hose problem I thought I'd build one this time
and ran across this Air Vacuum Pump at Harbor Freight Tools for $8.50 (pn
96677-2AYE) -- the Key on the catalog is AY9556.
Seems like it'd be easy to get the hose (5/8" OD - 3/8" ID) and a gas
tank - then ho
:23 -0500
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump-down time?
>
> There used to be a vacuum diagram on the net (petersmidt) but his domain has
> expired.
>
> There should be a vac diagram in your WSM - which should help -
-- nex
Supply line is brown, line to the servo is brown with a blue or
purple stripe.
Peter
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Yeah, no shutoff after a drive around either.
Unfortunately I don't have a WSM for this car. What color is the line
for the shutoff valve?
Allan
On Fri, 7 Mar 2008 08:21:23 -0500, "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
said:
> the line going to the shutoff valve in the IP is not connected somewhere.
> A
Also, check for some small restrictions in the lines -- some of the
fittings on the main line have very small holes. Otherwise, you have
more air getting into the main line that you should.
You may also have broken the check valve -- the one on my "new" 300D
was taped up when I got it, leak
Allan Streib" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 11:03 PM
Subject: [MBZ] vacuum pump-down time?
> Changing oil tonight I managed to snap off one of the plastic tees
> near the filter housing cover. Trying to pull the lines of the other
> two branches I ma
> hose. Replaced the broken tees and the related small lengths of hose.
> Started the car, and it won't shut off. I'm certain I didn't cross
> any connections, and don't see any other broken tees, but wondered if
> it takes a few minutes of running for the system to be evacuated of
> air after si
Changing oil tonight I managed to snap off one of the plastic tees
near the filter housing cover. Trying to pull the lines of the other
two branches I managed to snap another tee.
Ran to AutoZone in another vehicle and got some new tees and vacuum
hose. Replaced the broken tees and the related s
Howdy all -
Just finished replacing my vacuum pump. With 140k on this one I thought it
was time to play it safe.
The instructions in the WSM are pretty brief. It's 43-0618 - if you need a
copy let me know but it;s so basic as to be useless. Basically it shows a
image of the pump and the tex
.
- Original Message -
From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump replacement - M602-962 91 300D 2.5T
>I can't find the vacuum pump torque specs, but did find that for th
I can't find the vacuum pump torque specs, but did find that for the
timing cover to crankcase, the M6 bolts are 10NM (7.4 Lb-ft.) and the
M8 bolts are 25NM (18.4 Lb-ft). I seem to remember similar values
elsewhere, in the my past reading.
>
> Also - do you happen to know the torque value?
--
OK
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- Original Message -
From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 5:
l.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.
- Original Message -
From: "Alex Chamberlain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 6:12 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump replacement - M602-962 91 3
On 9/28/07, LarryT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Anyway - any guidance to the WSM info or VP replacement would be helpful -
I can advise you from experience to try not to overtighten the
mounting bolts and shear off their heads. It's hard to get a drill
with an Easy-Out on it in the front with the
LarryT wrote:
> I am going to replace my VP now rather than wait for it to fail since I'm
> not sure what kind of oil was used (I doubt it was full synthetic) and then
> start the clock running again -
>
> I checked the manual but did not see the section on replacing the VP. There
> were instr
I am going to replace my VP now rather than wait for it to fail since I'm
not sure what kind of oil was used (I doubt it was full synthetic) and then
start the clock running again -
I checked the manual but did not see the section on replacing the VP. There
were instructions with the pump (Fro
My 300D vacuum pump rocker arm roller is badly pitted ( single pipe
vaccum pump ) and am wondering whether to buy a rocker repair kit or the
complete pump. Is it likely that the pistons will also fail soon? I'm
not sure what milage this engine has done and was wondering how long the
rockers arm rol
How do I know if the vacuum pump on my '85 190D is going out? Its slow
to develop vacuum at low speed, when I back out of my driveway in the
morning I've got no power brakes. By the end of my street like 50
yards away everything is fine.
There is a procedure in the manual for testing it, invol
Put a vac meter on it, see what it says. I think a good pull is like
13-17" if I recall from when I did mine. If it is down to a few inches,
then that is too low.
--R
Curt Raymond wrote:
Hey folks,
How do I know if the vacuum pump on my '85 190D is going out? Its slow to
develop vacuum at l
Hey folks,
How do I know if the vacuum pump on my '85 190D is going out? Its slow to
develop vacuum at low speed, when I back out of my driveway in the morning I've
got no power brakes. By the end of my street like 50 yards away everything is
fine.
I replaced a short bit of line from the pump u
Don, do a Google search for Ford Explorer instrument cluster bulbs
burnt out, or something like that and bet it will lwead you to an
Useres List.
Did that years ago when I had a Bronco II.
John Freer
On 7/27/06, Donald Snook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Ok Don wrote:
"Since Marshal answered a
Donald Snook wrote:
Now, somebody tell me how to double my fuel mileage. My
old 124 diesel (now OK Don's) got 34 mpg. This beast of a car gets
20-21.
It's numbers like that that induced me to buy a diesel in 1968.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questi
Check ebay - they sell all kinds of " fuel mileage enhancement" devices.
Magnets, turbines for your intake, secret devices, etc. :)
Dave W
Now, somebody tell me how to double my fuel mileage. My
old 124 diesel (now OK Don's) got 34 mpg. This beast of a car gets
20-21.
Thanks to all for the information re: my car and vacuum pumps. I will
sleep better knowing I don't have a pump on my car that could destroy
the engine. Now, somebody tell me how to double my fuel mileage. My
old 124 diesel (now OK Don's) got 34 mpg. This beast of a car gets
20-21.
Donald H
Ok Don wrote:
"Since Marshal answered all your questions except the last one, I'll
take it
SELL the FORD !!"
Believe me, I have tried to get my wife to sell her Explorer. She loves
it. This is the first Ford I have ever had. I will say this for it, we
have not had any trouble a
Since Marshal answered all your questions except the last one, I'll take it
SELL the FORD !!
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '9
- Original Message -
From: "Donald Snook" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 7:30 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Vacuum pump Vacuum Schump
There has been lots of talk about vacuum pumps on here lately. I am
finally concerned. I have had 6 Mercedes in my driving
Donald Snook wrote:
There has been lots of talk about vacuum pumps on here lately. I am
finally concerned. I have had 6 Mercedes in my driving career and I
have never replaced a vacuum pump and have never had one blow up on me.
Perhaps I am lucky or stupid. One question I have is do the gas
v
There has been lots of talk about vacuum pumps on here lately. I am
finally concerned. I have had 6 Mercedes in my driving career and I
have never replaced a vacuum pump and have never had one blow up on me.
Perhaps I am lucky or stupid. One question I have is do the gas
versions have vacuum pu
Ha Ha Ha.
My new injection timing device arrived from Rusty, today. Now I got my
answer about the possibility of changing out just the vacuum pump driver
cam. It would be impossible. This whole timing device is a single piece.
The vacuum cam is cast or sintered right into the timing gear. I don
. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 9:56 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
Maybe he didnt know the head was cracked.
Brian Smyla wrote:
> Thanks, Tom.
>
> Well, I've got about $7K in the car right now, probabl
haven't been able to locate any information about the adjustment
system to
find out why it's not working. Anyone have any info about this?
My 126 ETM has schematics in it for the orthopedic seat option, IIRC.
Not much to it, just a switch to kick on the pump, and I think
leak valves to let exc
s!
-brian
-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 10:33 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
your car has heated seats? That is rare.
Brian Smyla wrote:
> Yes, you&#
I have a diesel to drive now! Anyone got some old style seat heater
switches I can buy, the ones that came with the car are toast?
What's wrong with 'em? (I'm always looking for parts, and I'm
missing one. I have the heated seat system [seats and all] out
of a 500 SEL, and I'm intending to tr
ater
switches I can buy, the ones that came with the car are toast?
-brian
-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 7:31 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
Was it usin
toast?
-brian
-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 7:31 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
Was it using coolant right away? If so he probably knew. If not and it
took
Was it using coolant right away? If so he probably knew. If not and it
took a while before it started using it, then he might not have known or
it wasnt cracked at the time you bought it. No telling. But, with any
used car, its as is of course.
Brian Smyla wrote:
Well, my feelings are th
Curt Raymond wrote:
>
> On that last point, does anybody have a driver's seat for a w201?
I've got a burgundy leather interior. I believe the driver's frame is solid,
but there are serious tears in the leather where you sit. IIRC the seatbacks
are quite nice. I can't remember if it's electric o
Well, my feelings are that he knew, but I'm not here to throw stones at him.
Just needed to vent.
-brian
-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 9:56 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump que
Awesome, I use Exploder unless I'm on a Linux box, inertia more than anything...
Hmm, now we just need somebody, or a couple somebody's coming from VA to
MA...
-Curt
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 14:22:59 -0500
From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [
enough) if I had a seatbottom that wasn't all squashed out and broken.
theres obviously a broken spring in the drivers seat although its not
currently sticking through the seat there is a hole.
My 190D had a broken spring, and it poked my wife in the ass when
she steered it home. (On the end o
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