Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)
Here's an 300SDL with no damage at a junk yard. http://www.silverstarrecycling.com/assets/images/05269.jpg #05269 1987 Mercedes 300 SDL, 126 chassis. (damage= no damage) For parts inquires Please call 1-800-783-4911 Thank you, Sales Staff silverstarrecycling.com Silver Star Recycling also has hard to find, and money saving deals on ebay: You can also place a parts price request on line at: http://www.silverstarrecycling.com We are located at: 11315 Dismantle Ct. Rancho Cordova, CA 95742 Dennis T -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.4/176 - Release Date: 11/20/2005
Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)
where are you located anyways? Smith, Todd wrote: Hello Tony, I have no evidence that the master cylinder has been recently replaced. As several others on this list have mentioned, the PO ran the car into the ground and then dumped it. I had purchased the car to replace my gas car and as a biodiesel candidate but even though the repairs are likely inexpensive; the time and parts cost are still likely to exceed what I can afford right now. I believe that this is a short term bump and I should be able to obtain another beater next year but right now getting through the end of the year is the goal and everything else has to be secondary to that. Regretfully, Todd Smith ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)
Todd: You mention that the brake pedal is hard- combined with everything else, you either have a massive vacuum leak OR a failed vacuum pump that needs rebuilding/replacing. First, you need a vacuum gauge (minimally), some diagrams and some patience to track that down. The power steering pump is easily enough replaced as Kaleb mentioned. The problems you describe take the value of the car way down- case in point, I bought a 300SDL for almost nothing b/c the dealer told PO that the turbo AND tranny were bad- tis for a car with a fairly recent MB reman transmission. Turned out to be nothing more than a broken $20 part that caused all of the problem, including weird shifts and no power. Too bad you're not closer- I'm in Charlottesville VA and have a feeling that with a pump rebuild kit and some time you could get most of the stuff sorted in 3-4 hours. Most everything you describe- bad acceleration, no shutoff, harsh shifts are ALL directly dependent on vacuum, unlike most other cars. Has to be someone closer to you. Also look at the line from the brake booster to the pump- this is about the only place where a single line failure (or cracks in the block where the smaller vacuum lines connect) can create enough of a leak to cause power brake failure outside of the booster. Also- is there any evidence that the master cylinder has been recently been replaced? Tony Wirtel
Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)
Hello Tony, I have no evidence that the master cylinder has been recently replaced. As several others on this list have mentioned, the PO ran the car into the ground and then dumped it. I had purchased the car to replace my gas car and as a biodiesel candidate but even though the repairs are likely inexpensive; the time and parts cost are still likely to exceed what I can afford right now. I believe that this is a short term bump and I should be able to obtain another beater next year but right now getting through the end of the year is the goal and everything else has to be secondary to that. Regretfully, Todd Smith
Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)
Sounds like what Todd needs is a group of local MBZ afficianodoes to pay him a visit and get him running right. Tim (who spells a goode as Dan Quaile) 1982 300TD Moby On 11/18/05, Smith, Todd [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello Tony, I have no evidence that the master cylinder has been recently replaced. As several others on this list have mentioned, the PO ran the car into the ground and then dumped it. I had purchased the car to replace my gas car and as a biodiesel candidate but even though the repairs are likely inexpensive; the time and parts cost are still likely to exceed what I can afford right now. I believe that this is a short term bump and I should be able to obtain another beater next year but right now getting through the end of the year is the goal and everything else has to be secondary to that. Regretfully, Todd Smith ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)
Todd, Where are you located? If you are in the Seattle area, you and I could fix every one of these things in an afternoon after a modest parts order to Rusty and a quick stop at the Benz Friendz used parts warehouse. You can fix the odo with Crazy Glue - I did 2 of them myself. BTW, I think the 85 300CD is the pinnacle of Mercedes diesel production, but nobody should expect any vehicle of that vintage to be 'daily driver ready', I don't car how much it cost or who the PO was and what he did. Rubber rots. Bulbs burn out. Metal wears. Plastic decays. Lube drys. Stuff breaks. Things on a 20 year old car will need regular fixing, period. And I mean fixing, not maintainence. My 85 is a cream puff but requires regular TLC to keep it ready for the wife to drive. The nice thing is that the 123s are designed with obsessive Teutonic precision to be fixed, not throwaway like an old Ford. Enjoy fixing it or get rid of it. Regarding price, it is raining Benz diesels out here in Seattle. Plenty of great 123s and 115s to be had for under $1000 with no rust, but typically all carboned up with valves out of adjustment, weak vacuum, bad thermostats, etc, but nothing that the folks on this list couldn't tell you how to fix yourself. Cheers, Bruce Smith, Todd [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello, I am a recent newcomer and lurker on this list and I have enjoyed the expert advice and friendly atmosphere to frequently asked questions. About a month ago, I purchased a 1985 300CD from eBay that I had planned to use as a daily driver and as a suitable candidate for biodiesel. Unfortunately, neither of these goals has been met since some unexpected expenses have tapped my biodiesel fund and the car has issues that were not correctly presented during the sale. This has led me to the unenviable task of selling the car to recover the funds that I have in it. My goal is to accurately report everything that I know or believe about the car with enough pictures to hopefully cover all angles. I want the next buyer to be able to make an informed decision. Yes, I know that this is stupid since it will probably cost me the sale but I am tired of being burned and this is the only way to break the cycle. The pictures are available at http://photos.yahoo.com/tssmith2002 The car is white; the paint is somewhat faded but is generally okay, especially considering its age. There is rust on one fender and but the rubber covers over the bumpers still seem good. It may appear to have rust along the trunk lid but that is actually two leaves that I didn't't notice until I was looking at the pictures. I can take another picture if someone wishes me to confirm that statement. The doors are solid with the exception of the trim of the passenger's door. There is a picture with me placing my finger in the gap that is sprung from the trim. The interior is worn but still serviceable with the majority of the wear in the driver's seat. There is a tear or spilt seam in the middle of the back seat that looks like it needs some attention. I believe that the interior pictures cover the interior pretty well. If anyone needs a better picture or can make a suggestion as to something that a buyer might want to see; please feel free to ask me. Good points: 1) Car runs and I have driven it over 300 miles at Interstate speeds from Maryland to its current home in Charleston, West Virginia. 2) Aftermarket radio plays pretty well with good reception. 3) Climate control seems to work with the exception of A/C. 4) Front windows work howbeit slowly. The rear power windows do not retract, PO says that switches are bad but motors are good. (Motor condition not verified) 5) Rides pretty good for a car of its age. 6) My personal belief is that the engine and transmission is good but both need attention. 7) It's a MB diesel and if it finds a good home then it should run for a while longer. 8) Tires are almost brand new and show very deep tread. Bad points: 1) Serious vacuum issues: Engine doesn't't cutoff, Automatic Transmission shifts poorly, Door locks are inoperable, Cruise Control works but will not hold speed for long. 2) Extremely poor acceleration: This is my first diesel and first MB, so this might be user error. When at a light, I have to almost stand on the accelerator to get it to crawl through a light. It takes several car lengths to accelerator to 20MPH and then it seems to run better. It will reach 70+ MPH but it doesn't't like to hold it. Letting off the accelerator seems to have a large drop in speed by 10-15MPH almost immediately. 3) Power steering is inoperable. PO indicates that power steering pump leaks profusely and removed PS drive belt and pulley. I have taken pictures of belt and pulley and they are with the car but not installed. 4) Unknown mileage since odometer doesn't't work. The Title says 248K miles but the odometer says 238K and I have added ~400 miles
Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)
Sounds like you need to invest a couple hundred $ in some used parts (PS pump and brake caliper, or a rebuild kit) and a vac pump rebuild kit, and a weekend of wrenching, and you would have an OK car. The windows are easy to open up and clean/lube, as are the switches. This is all stuff that is not unreasonable on a 20 yr old car. --R Smith, Todd wrote: Hello, I am a recent newcomer and lurker on this list and I have enjoyed the expert advice and friendly atmosphere to frequently asked questions. About a month ago, I purchased a 1985 300CD from eBay that I had planned to use as a daily driver and as a suitable candidate for biodiesel. Unfortunately, neither of these goals has been met since some unexpected expenses have tapped my biodiesel fund and the car has issues that were not correctly presented during the sale. This has led me to the unenviable task of selling the car to recover the funds that I have in it. My goal is to accurately report everything that I know or believe about the car with enough pictures to hopefully cover all angles. I want the next buyer to be able to make an informed decision. Yes, I know that this is stupid since it will probably cost me the sale but I am tired of being burned and this is the only way to break the cycle. The pictures are available at http://photos.yahoo.com/tssmith2002 The car is white; the paint is somewhat faded but is generally okay, especially considering its age. There is rust on one fender and but the rubber covers over the bumpers still seem good. It may appear to have rust along the trunk lid but that is actually two leaves that I didn't't notice until I was looking at the pictures. I can take another picture if someone wishes me to confirm that statement. The doors are solid with the exception of the trim of the passenger's door. There is a picture with me placing my finger in the gap that is sprung from the trim. The interior is worn but still serviceable with the majority of the wear in the driver's seat. There is a tear or spilt seam in the middle of the back seat that looks like it needs some attention. I believe that the interior pictures cover the interior pretty well. If anyone needs a better picture or can make a suggestion as to something that a buyer might want to see; please feel free to ask me. Good points: 1) Car runs and I have driven it over 300 miles at Interstate speeds from Maryland to its current home in Charleston, West Virginia. 2) Aftermarket radio plays pretty well with good reception. 3) Climate control seems to work with the exception of A/C. 4) Front windows work howbeit slowly. The rear power windows do not retract, PO says that switches are bad but motors are good. (Motor condition not verified) 5) Rides pretty good for a car of its age. 6) My personal belief is that the engine and transmission is good but both need attention. 7) It's a MB diesel and if it finds a good home then it should run for a while longer. 8) Tires are almost brand new and show very deep tread. Bad points: 1) Serious vacuum issues: Engine doesn't't cutoff, Automatic Transmission shifts poorly, Door locks are inoperable, Cruise Control works but will not hold speed for long. 2) Extremely poor acceleration: This is my first diesel and first MB, so this might be user error. When at a light, I have to almost stand on the accelerator to get it to crawl through a light. It takes several car lengths to accelerator to 20MPH and then it seems to run better. It will reach 70+ MPH but it doesn't't like to hold it. Letting off the accelerator seems to have a large drop in speed by 10-15MPH almost immediately. 3) Power steering is inoperable. PO indicates that power steering pump leaks profusely and removed PS drive belt and pulley. I have taken pictures of belt and pulley and they are with the car but not installed. 4) Unknown mileage since odometer doesn't't work. The Title says 248K miles but the odometer says 238K and I have added ~400 miles on since I have owned it. I believe that the mileage on the Title is reasonably correct but I have no way of verifying what the PO placed on the Title. 5) Trunk lock has been drilled out by PO. 6) Since the engine doesn't cutoff, then the engine has to be killed with the fuel cutoff switch on the IP. The primary hood release has broken off at the handle and protrudes through the hood. Since the primary hood release is troublesome to operate then operating the car means letting the secondary latch hold the hood down. Unlatching the hood means pulling the tab for the secondary hood release at front of the grill. 6) A clunking noise that is seems to emanate from the rear passenger wheel. It is noticeable at low speeds and seems to quiet down at
Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)
Smith, Todd wrote: Hello, I am a recent newcomer and lurker on this list and I have enjoyed the expert advice and friendly atmosphere to frequently asked questions. About a month ago, I purchased a 1985 300CD from eBay that I had planned to use as a daily driver and as a suitable candidate for biodiesel. Unfortunately, neither of these goals has been met since some unexpected expenses have tapped my biodiesel fund and the car has issues that were not correctly presented during the sale. This has led me to the unenviable task of selling the car to recover the funds that I have in it. My goal is to accurately report everything that I know or believe about the car with enough pictures to hopefully cover all angles. I want the next buyer to be able to make an informed decision. Yes, I know that this is stupid since it will probably cost me the sale but I am tired of being burned and this is the only way to break the cycle. The pictures are available at http://photos.yahoo.com/tssmith2002 The car is white; the paint is somewhat faded but is generally okay, especially considering its age. There is rust on one fender and but the rubber covers over the bumpers still seem good. It may appear to have rust along the trunk lid but that is actually two leaves that I didn't't notice until I was looking at the pictures. I can take another picture if someone wishes me to confirm that statement. The doors are solid with the exception of the trim of the passenger's door. There is a picture with me placing my finger in the gap that is sprung from the trim. The interior is worn but still serviceable with the majority of the wear in the driver's seat. There is a tear or spilt seam in the middle of the back seat that looks like it needs some attention. I believe that the interior pictures cover the interior pretty well. If anyone needs a better picture or can make a suggestion as to something that a buyer might want to see; please feel free to ask me. Good points: 1) Car runs and I have driven it over 300 miles at Interstate speeds from Maryland to its current home in Charleston, West Virginia. 2) Aftermarket radio plays pretty well with good reception. 3) Climate control seems to work with the exception of A/C. 4) Front windows work howbeit slowly. The rear power windows do not retract, PO says that switches are bad but motors are good. (Motor condition not verified) 5) Rides pretty good for a car of its age. 6) My personal belief is that the engine and transmission is good but both need attention. 7) It's a MB diesel and if it finds a good home then it should run for a while longer. 8) Tires are almost brand new and show very deep tread. Bad points: 1) Serious vacuum issues: Engine doesn't't cutoff, Automatic Transmission shifts poorly, Door locks are inoperable, Just track down the vacuum leak, probably one of the door lock elements. Cruise Control works but will not hold speed for long. Needs new CC unit. 2) Extremely poor acceleration: This is my first diesel and first MB, so this might be user error. When at a light, I have to almost stand on the accelerator to get it to crawl through a light. It takes several car lengths to accelerator to 20MPH and then it seems to run better. It will reach 70+ MPH but it doesn't't like to hold it. Letting off the accelerator seems to have a large drop in speed by 10-15MPH almost immediately. Plugged ALDA line, and/or need to adjust boost and ALDA 3) Power steering is inoperable. PO indicates that power steering pump leaks profusely and removed PS drive belt and pulley. I have taken pictures of belt and pulley and they are with the car but not installed. I have plenty of pumps cheap 4) Unknown mileage since odometer doesn't't work. The Title says 248K miles but the odometer says 238K and I have added ~400 miles on since I have owned it. I believe that the mileage on the Title is reasonably correct but I have no way of verifying what the PO placed on the Title. Oh well, easy to fix the odo 5) Trunk lock has been drilled out by PO. Stupid PO 6) Since the engine doesn't cutoff, then the engine has to be killed with the fuel cutoff switch on the IP. The primary hood release has broken off at the handle and protrudes through the hood. Since the primary hood release is troublesome to operate then operating the car means letting the secondary latch hold the hood down. Unlatching the hood means pulling the tab for the secondary hood release at front of the grill. 6) A clunking noise that is seems to emanate from the rear passenger wheel. It is noticeable at low speeds and seems to quiet down at highway speed but it is always in the background. I believe that this may be a sticking brake since the brakes are
Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)
Hello Rich, Thank you for your response. I really don't think that the car is in unreasonable condition but I had purchased it with the understanding that it was a daily driver since I was in the process of getting rid of my gas car. Unfortunately, the time and money for parts is at a premium right now. I didn't expect perfect for $1500.00 but I did expect to be able to drive it and the acceleration problem is dangerous for where I live. Todd Smith -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 10:15 To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG) Sounds like you need to invest a couple hundred $ in some used parts (PS pump and brake caliper, or a rebuild kit) and a vac pump rebuild kit, and a weekend of wrenching, and you would have an OK car. The windows are easy to open up and clean/lube, as are the switches. This is all stuff that is not unreasonable on a 20 yr old car. --R
Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)
Hello Kaleb, Thank you for your response. I agree that plumbing the vacuum lines would be make a big difference. Are the door lock elements in the door itself or under the hood? Just track down the vacuum leak, probably one of the door lock elements. Cruise Control works but will not hold speed for long. Needs new CC unit. Is the CC unit a pricey component? Of course, CC is low on the priority list right now but for future planning purposes. Plugged ALDA line, and/or need to adjust boost and ALDA I have read about adjusting boost on the of the few articles still left on mbz.com page but I heard of people talking about ALDA but I don't know what that is? 6) A clunking noise that is seems to emanate from the rear passenger wheel. It is noticeable at low speeds and seems to quiet down at highway speed but it is always in the background. I believe that this may be a sticking brake since the brakes are very firm when pressed. Dr. Booth in answering a similar question that was posted recently suggested a possible bad half-axle. Its the rear sway bar links. ABout $15 each and takes about 3 minutes to replace. That is good news to hear since I was afraid that it was the axle half-shaft or worse. Thank you for your time Todd Smith
Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)
I think the accel part is a quick easy cheap fix -- the other guys have the adjustments for the ALDA thing. If you have a leak in a vac line you can just plug it, see if the shutoff and brakes then work OK, if not the vac pump rebuild is not too expensive and fairly easy. The PS pump -- see waht Kaleb will sell you one for, or he will buy the whole car for $500 and sell all the parts to others! I know you say you have the $ situation, but it would be sad to let a decent car go for want of not too many $$ to get it sorted out OK. The age-old conundrum, alas. Give a try on the cheap easy fixes then re-evaluate. --R Smith, Todd wrote: Hello Rich, Thank you for your response. I really don't think that the car is in unreasonable condition but I had purchased it with the understanding that it was a daily driver since I was in the process of getting rid of my gas car. Unfortunately, the time and money for parts is at a premium right now. I didn't expect perfect for $1500.00 but I did expect to be able to drive it and the acceleration problem is dangerous for where I live. Todd Smith -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 10:15 To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG) Sounds like you need to invest a couple hundred $ in some used parts (PS pump and brake caliper, or a rebuild kit) and a vac pump rebuild kit, and a weekend of wrenching, and you would have an OK car. The windows are easy to open up and clean/lube, as are the switches. This is all stuff that is not unreasonable on a 20 yr old car. --R ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)
I hate to say this...but that's what I paid for my '82 300CD with a supposedly bad transmission. $60 for M1 ATF and filter kit and she's as good as new. Kaleb, how do you replace the sway bar links? -Original Message- From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Nov 17, 2005 10:21 AM To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG) Smith, Todd wrote: Hello, I am a recent newcomer and lurker on this list and I have enjoyed the expert advice and friendly atmosphere to frequently asked questions. About a month ago, I purchased a 1985 300CD from eBay that I had planned to use as a daily driver and as a suitable candidate for biodiesel. Unfortunately, neither of these goals has been met since some unexpected expenses have tapped my biodiesel fund and the car has issues that were not correctly presented during the sale. This has led me to the unenviable task of selling the car to recover the funds that I have in it. My goal is to accurately report everything that I know or believe about the car with enough pictures to hopefully cover all angles. I want the next buyer to be able to make an informed decision. Yes, I know that this is stupid since it will probably cost me the sale but I am tired of being burned and this is the only way to break the cycle. The pictures are available at http://photos.yahoo.com/tssmith2002 The car is white; the paint is somewhat faded but is generally okay, especially considering its age. There is rust on one fender and but the rubber covers over the bumpers still seem good. It may appear to have rust along the trunk lid but that is actually two leaves that I didn't't notice until I was looking at the pictures. I can take another picture if someone wishes me to confirm that statement. The doors are solid with the exception of the trim of the passenger's door. There is a picture with me placing my finger in the gap that is sprung from the trim. The interior is worn but still serviceable with the majority of the wear in the driver's seat. There is a tear or spilt seam in the middle of the back seat that looks like it needs some attention. I believe that the interior pictures cover the interior pretty well. If anyone needs a better picture or can make a suggestion as to something that a buyer might want to see; please feel free to ask me. Good points: 1) Car runs and I have driven it over 300 miles at Interstate speeds from Maryland to its current home in Charleston, West Virginia. 2) Aftermarket radio plays pretty well with good reception. 3) Climate control seems to work with the exception of A/C. 4) Front windows work howbeit slowly. The rear power windows do not retract, PO says that switches are bad but motors are good. (Motor condition not verified) 5) Rides pretty good for a car of its age. 6) My personal belief is that the engine and transmission is good but both need attention. 7) It's a MB diesel and if it finds a good home then it should run for a while longer. 8) Tires are almost brand new and show very deep tread. Bad points: 1) Serious vacuum issues: Engine doesn't't cutoff, Automatic Transmission shifts poorly, Door locks are inoperable, Just track down the vacuum leak, probably one of the door lock elements. Cruise Control works but will not hold speed for long. Needs new CC unit. 2) Extremely poor acceleration: This is my first diesel and first MB, so this might be user error. When at a light, I have to almost stand on the accelerator to get it to crawl through a light. It takes several car lengths to accelerator to 20MPH and then it seems to run better. It will reach 70+ MPH but it doesn't't like to hold it. Letting off the accelerator seems to have a large drop in speed by 10-15MPH almost immediately. Plugged ALDA line, and/or need to adjust boost and ALDA 3) Power steering is inoperable. PO indicates that power steering pump leaks profusely and removed PS drive belt and pulley. I have taken pictures of belt and pulley and they are with the car but not installed. I have plenty of pumps cheap 4) Unknown mileage since odometer doesn't't work. The Title says 248K miles but the odometer says 238K and I have added ~400 miles on since I have owned it. I believe that the mileage on the Title is reasonably correct but I have no way of verifying what the PO placed on the Title. Oh well, easy to fix the odo 5) Trunk lock has been drilled out by PO. Stupid PO 6) Since the engine doesn't cutoff, then the engine has to be killed with the fuel cutoff switch on the IP. The primary hood release has broken off at the handle and protrudes through the hood. Since the primary hood release is troublesome to operate
Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)
Smith, Todd wrote: I have read about adjusting boost on the of the few articles still left on mbz.com page but I heard of people talking about ALDA but I don't know what that is? Look for a little square metal device on the injector pump. It will have a thin hose connected to it, via a banjo connection, and a round cap on top (or a screw with locknut, if someone's removed the cap.) Before I cleaned the boost lines and adjusted the ALDA, my car acted like yours...dead slow until it hit 2000 rpm, then it would pick up steam. Now it accellerates smartly. The Mercedes diesels are not sports cars, but these are *not* sluggish cars when properly tuned, at least not at sea level. This is *not* the same thing as adjusting the boost level itself -- that's done by adjusting the turbocharger wastegate. You shouldn't mess with the wastegate until you have the ALDA straightened out. There are good instructions for this on the web, but I've lost track of where they are. Hopefully someone will post a pointer. It's not a difficult job.
Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)
Smith, Todd wrote: Hello Kaleb, Thank you for your response. I agree that plumbing the vacuum lines would be make a big difference. Are the door lock elements in the door itself or under the hood? The lock elements are in each door. Really need to get the factory manual or CD and will make that testing easy. Just track down the vacuum leak, probably one of the door lock elements. Cruise Control works but will not hold speed for long. Needs new CC unit. Is the CC unit a pricey component? Of course, CC is low on the priority list right now but for future planning purposes. Not really, I have plenty of used ones in stock if/when you need one. Plugged ALDA line, and/or need to adjust boost and ALDA I have read about adjusting boost on the of the few articles still left on mbz.com page but I heard of people talking about ALDA but I don't know what that is? There is a plastic line that runs from a banjo bolt on the back of the intake manifold to a little protection switch on the firewall, then to the top of the injection pump, the ALDA. Take the banjo bolt out, make sure its clean, make sure the line is clean, bypass the switchover valve for testing purposes then see what it does. If the little black cap is still on top of the ALDA, it has never been adjusted. Pop that cap out and adjust it out about 1/2 a turn at a time, no more than 2 turns total. 6) A clunking noise that is seems to emanate from the rear passenger wheel. It is noticeable at low speeds and seems to quiet down at highway speed but it is always in the background. I believe that this may be a sticking brake since the brakes are very firm when pressed. Dr. Booth in answering a similar question that was posted recently suggested a possible bad half-axle. Its the rear sway bar links. ABout $15 each and takes about 3 minutes to replace. That is good news to hear since I was afraid that it was the axle half-shaft or worse. If it was the axle shaft it would be banging around pretty loud. Thank you for your time Todd Smith ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)
Just unscrew then from the sway bar and the control arm Luther Gulseth wrote: I hate to say this...but that's what I paid for my '82 300CD with a supposedly bad transmission. $60 for M1 ATF and filter kit and she's as good as new. Kaleb, how do you replace the sway bar links? -Original Message- From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Nov 17, 2005 10:21 AM To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG) Smith, Todd wrote: Hello, I am a recent newcomer and lurker on this list and I have enjoyed the expert advice and friendly atmosphere to frequently asked questions. About a month ago, I purchased a 1985 300CD from eBay that I had planned to use as a daily driver and as a suitable candidate for biodiesel. Unfortunately, neither of these goals has been met since some unexpected expenses have tapped my biodiesel fund and the car has issues that were not correctly presented during the sale. This has led me to the unenviable task of selling the car to recover the funds that I have in it. My goal is to accurately report everything that I know or believe about the car with enough pictures to hopefully cover all angles. I want the next buyer to be able to make an informed decision. Yes, I know that this is stupid since it will probably cost me the sale but I am tired of being burned and this is the only way to break the cycle. The pictures are available at http://photos.yahoo.com/tssmith2002 The car is white; the paint is somewhat faded but is generally okay, especially considering its age. There is rust on one fender and but the rubber covers over the bumpers still seem good. It may appear to have rust along the trunk lid but that is actually two leaves that I didn't't notice until I was looking at the pictures. I can take another picture if someone wishes me to confirm that statement. The doors are solid with the exception of the trim of the passenger's door. There is a picture with me placing my finger in the gap that is sprung from the trim. The interior is worn but still serviceable with the majority of the wear in the driver's seat. There is a tear or spilt seam in the middle of the back seat that looks like it needs some attention. I believe that the interior pictures cover the interior pretty well. If anyone needs a better picture or can make a suggestion as to something that a buyer might want to see; please feel free to ask me. Good points: 1) Car runs and I have driven it over 300 miles at Interstate speeds from Maryland to its current home in Charleston, West Virginia. 2) Aftermarket radio plays pretty well with good reception. 3) Climate control seems to work with the exception of A/C. 4) Front windows work howbeit slowly. The rear power windows do not retract, PO says that switches are bad but motors are good. (Motor condition not verified) 5) Rides pretty good for a car of its age. 6) My personal belief is that the engine and transmission is good but both need attention. 7) It's a MB diesel and if it finds a good home then it should run for a while longer. 8) Tires are almost brand new and show very deep tread. Bad points: 1) Serious vacuum issues: Engine doesn't't cutoff, Automatic Transmission shifts poorly, Door locks are inoperable, Just track down the vacuum leak, probably one of the door lock elements. Cruise Control works but will not hold speed for long. Needs new CC unit. 2) Extremely poor acceleration: This is my first diesel and first MB, so this might be user error. When at a light, I have to almost stand on the accelerator to get it to crawl through a light. It takes several car lengths to accelerator to 20MPH and then it seems to run better. It will reach 70+ MPH but it doesn't't like to hold it. Letting off the accelerator seems to have a large drop in speed by 10-15MPH almost immediately. Plugged ALDA line, and/or need to adjust boost and ALDA 3) Power steering is inoperable. PO indicates that power steering pump leaks profusely and removed PS drive belt and pulley. I have taken pictures of belt and pulley and they are with the car but not installed. I have plenty of pumps cheap 4) Unknown mileage since odometer doesn't't work. The Title says 248K miles but the odometer says 238K and I have added ~400 miles on since I have owned it. I believe that the mileage on the Title is reasonably correct but I have no way of verifying what the PO placed on the Title. Oh well, easy to fix the odo 5) Trunk lock has been drilled out by PO. Stupid PO 6) Since the engine doesn't cutoff, then the engine has to be killed with the fuel cutoff switch on the IP. The primary hood release has broken off at the handle and protrudes through the hood. Since the primary hood
