Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
David, Here's a link from Philip to the soldering iron and 'stuff' that I bought, works great! -Max From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Fmiser Sent: Wed 3/24/2010 10:42 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote: Thanks for your write-up and advice. What is the best way to strip off the varnish? I didn't notice any corrosion, but will keep your wire brush tip in mind. I have an ancient home-made soldering iron, the tip is a little gross for this work, so I need to procure a better iron - can you recommend a model? The best non-expensive unit I know is from MCM Electronics part number 21-8125 http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-8125$6.19 They also carry my favorite solder. http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-2280 1 lb $20.99 While your at it, you can get a decent little stand with a tip-cleaning sponge. http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-8165 $5.09 One site I read cautioned that overheating components like the integrated circuits was a potential pitfall to a DIY approach. I did a lot of soldering in college, so I'm pretty confident I know how much heat is enough to get a good joint. Do you think any of the components on this board are especially sensitive to heat? No, they are pretty big, heavy components. Sure, they can still be cooked, but watch the solder flow and don't heat longer than necessary and you will probably be just fine. -- Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com http://www.okiebenz.com/ For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
I'd reccomend using a 63/37 alloy instead of 60/40... It is a eutectic slloy, so it doesn't have a temperature range where it is plastic... Making it very difficult to get a bum joint because of movement. (It also has a slightly lower melting temperature...) -- John W Reames jwrea...@comcast.net Home: +14106646986 Mobile: +14437915905 On Mar 24, 2010, at 22:42, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote: Thanks for your write-up and advice. What is the best way to strip off the varnish? I didn't notice any corrosion, but will keep your wire brush tip in mind. I have an ancient home-made soldering iron, the tip is a little gross for this work, so I need to procure a better iron - can you recommend a model? The best non-expensive unit I know is from MCM Electronics part number 21-8125 http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-8125$6.19 They also carry my favorite solder. http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-2280 1 lb $20.99 While your at it, you can get a decent little stand with a tip-cleaning sponge. http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-8165 $5.09 One site I read cautioned that overheating components like the integrated circuits was a potential pitfall to a DIY approach. I did a lot of soldering in college, so I'm pretty confident I know how much heat is enough to get a good joint. Do you think any of the components on this board are especially sensitive to heat? No, they are pretty big, heavy components. Sure, they can still be cooked, but watch the solder flow and don't heat longer than necessary and you will probably be just fine. -- Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
Let me know, it's about 3 MB. -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 11:37 PM To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide On Wed, 24 Mar 2010 19:55:05 -0500 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote: I'd like a copy of that diagnosing article if you find it as well - an excuse to fire up the old tek scope, if nothing else! Maybe Kaleb can put it on his website. Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
Jim, Excellent stuff, I'll need a few hours to absorb/ponder, then I'll try to talk Rich into access to his O-scope, fancy soldering iron, etc. etc. Maybe if I buy/bring Alex's actuator and scrounge a CC stalk to use as part of the test bed to sweeten the deal... -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 9:51 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide Thanks for your write-up and advice. What is the best way to strip off the varnish? I use methylene-chloride-free paint stripper, typical hardware store stuff. I recoat with clear spray enamel. can you recommend a model? I read one site which advised a 25 watt model. I also need to get a solder sucker. I use an ancient Weller with a PL114 tip. Probably from the 70's. And a Sold-a-pullit sucker. One site I read cautioned that overheating components like the integrated circuits was a potential pitfall to a DIY approach. I did a lot of soldering in college, so I'm pretty confident I know how much heat is enough to get a good joint. Do you think any of the components on this board are especially sensitive to heat? No, no special caution required. I've fixed about a dozen of the things. I'm not sure that I've ever had a car that _didn't_ need that fixed. Plus the ones I did for others. Besides the testing guide, there are my notes: http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/JSLcruise.html and http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/cwcruise.html and http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/SDLcruise.html -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
Philip, Thanks, and I love the price, so I may have to order one of these... -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Fmiser Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 11:27 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote: I have an ancient home-made soldering iron, the tip is a little gross for this work, so I need to procure a better iron - can you recommend a model? Fmiser wrote: The best non-expensive unit I know is from MCM Electronics part number 21-8125 http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-8125$6.19 Yeah, I'm replying to myself. (is that the same as talking to myself?) I realized I didn't really say enough about this iron. If you look at the price only, you'll probably think it's just another RadioShack like soldering iron. It's not. I bought my first one to put in the loaner tool kit. It was so impressed I have recommended it to numerous people in the last 8 years (or so). On one project, a fellow disregarded my advise and bought a brand new Radio Shack piece of junk. Paid more than twice as much. I had one of these along anyway. At the end of the day, after soldering many dozens of audio connections, the tip on the Radio Shack iron was destroyed, and was a pain the whole day. This little $10 iron was fine. I have since put dozens of hours on the loaner, sold it, got another loaner and put a number of hours on it. I also got my kid one and I borrow it when mine sturdy old Ungar is in the car and I'm too lazy to go get it. In conclusion, my only complaint is I personally like a tip with a flat side. And one friend had his quit on him with less than a dozen hours use. But at this price, buy two and have a spare! -- Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
I use an ancient Weller with a PL114 tip. Probably from the 70's. Make that Ungar, not Weller. I mis-remembered. I also have a fairly new 'soldering station' that has a very fine tip, and is temperature controlled, but I don't like it much. I only use it when I need the very fine tip. (The Ungar PL114 is a fairly fine tip, and is perfect for 80's-vintage electronics. I'm just about out of them, I had a small bag full but the tips break off eventually, usually due to accident. That's part of what prompted the purchase of the soldering station.) Completing the stable is a fairly crappy 80W Weller (_there_ it is!) that I use whenever I need some real heat. Has a 3/8 unplated wedge tip on it. Not exactly a finesse tool, but very useful nonetheless! Oh, and for resoldering battery clamps and cable terminals there's nothing like a few waves of the magic wand: the smoke wrench. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
yea, I could do that. Craig McCluskey wrote: On Wed, 24 Mar 2010 19:55:05 -0500 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote: I'd like a copy of that diagnosing article if you find it as well - an excuse to fire up the old tek scope, if nothing else! Maybe Kaleb can put it on his website. Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.791 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2768 - Release Date: 03/24/10 14:33:00 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
It's on its way... -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 9:58 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide yea, I could do that. Craig McCluskey wrote: On Wed, 24 Mar 2010 19:55:05 -0500 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote: I'd like a copy of that diagnosing article if you find it as well - an excuse to fire up the old tek scope, if nothing else! Maybe Kaleb can put it on his website. Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.791 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2768 - Release Date: 03/24/10 14:33:00 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 05:35:10 -0800 Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote: Completing the stable is a fairly crappy 80W Weller (_there_ it is!) that I use whenever I need some real heat. Has a 3/8 unplated wedge tip on it. Not exactly a finesse tool, but very useful nonetheless! Oh, and for resoldering battery clamps and cable terminals there's nothing like a few waves of the magic wand: the smoke wrench. I have a 200 Watt long-cylinder type Sears iron. Plug that in and about 20 minutes later you can do a lot of soldering. It's a lot better than a smoke wrench for many things because it doesn't affect the surface of the metal like a smoke wrench does. When I worked at HP in Colorado Springs, we had a 600 watt iron of a similar (and much larger) type. If you left that plugged in for a while and then turned the room lights off, you could see it glowing a dull red. VERY HOT! Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
Congrats! I'm told that the feedback resistance track inside the CC actuator can get worn, and the jumpy resistance is reflected in spastic CC action around that point. Your amp still sounds like it might have feedback loop problems, that's the problem I always end up with, and which repeated resolderings takes care of. Go ahead and do the whole thing, and don't forget the fine wire brushing (Dremel) of the whole solder side before you start, that takes off corrosion that might prevent good contact. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
Thanks for your write-up and advice. What is the best way to strip off the varnish? I didn't notice any corrosion, but will keep your wire brush tip in mind. I have an ancient home-made soldering iron, the tip is a little gross for this work, so I need to procure a better iron - can you recommend a model? I read one site which advised a 25 watt model. I also need to get a solder sucker. One site I read cautioned that overheating components like the integrated circuits was a potential pitfall to a DIY approach. I did a lot of soldering in college, so I'm pretty confident I know how much heat is enough to get a good joint. Do you think any of the components on this board are especially sensitive to heat? Thanks, Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 10:07 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide Congrats! I'm told that the feedback resistance track inside the CC actuator can get worn, and the jumpy resistance is reflected in spastic CC action around that point. Your amp still sounds like it might have feedback loop problems, that's the problem I always end up with, and which repeated resolderings takes care of. Go ahead and do the whole thing, and don't forget the fine wire brushing (Dremel) of the whole solder side before you start, that takes off corrosion that might prevent good contact. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
On Wed, Mar 24, 2010 at 6:28 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote: So, I'm not sure if the remaining ill behavior is all the fault of the actuator Max, If you decide it's the actuator, and can't or don't want to fix yours, I have a brand new one I'll sell you for a lot less than Rusty's price. Bought it from him a few years ago, then found that the CC on my '87 worked perfectly after replacing the amplifier with a rebuilt one from GDL, so I never put in the actuator. (Which is a pain anyway since it's buried under the manifold or at least the crossover pipe, IIRC.) Let me know off list. Alex Chamberlain '87 300D, '86 300E, '82 500SEL Euro, passel of Saabs ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
Hey that is an awesome writeup, I'm sure it will get referenced sometime soon. Max if you want a good soldering station you need one like this http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU I have one and it is great. I used to use those cheap Radio Shack things and cuss every time, I finally sprung for this for my new electronics hobbies/endeavors, and it is SO easy to get a good joint, it is amazing. You can get different tips, a tiny one is great for circuit boards and such. --R Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote: Dieselvolk, Last night I finally sorted out the cruise control on my '87 300TD. Thanks Jim for your excellent trouble shooting write-up, which I used to decide that the cruise control amplifier was not working. http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mamerepairs.html#cruisetest I pulled out the CC amp and re-soldered all the joints that look suspicious to my eye (about 1/4 of them or less), re-installed in the car and despite my doubts the system actually works! It will perform all functions, but it is jerky when the engine has to accelerate and then release. For instance, setting the CC will sometimes result in some stuttering. Going over small hills causes some stuttering. The CC take-up following stalk deceleration is very smooth, but there is stuttering after stalk acceleration. By stutter I mean that there will consistently be one jerk following stalk acceleration, and sometimes the same single jerk following setting the CC. Hills can cause the system to jerk several times then shut off. I did get some odd results from the measurements on the actuator motor. The motor windings measured about 10 ohms vice 5, and during the third test (with the three jumpers between various pins, key on but motor off) the actuator would move and the resistance would fall smoothly from 2.7k ohms to about 200 ohms, but when I held the stalk in the Accel position to drive the resistance to zero, the resistance would spike and I could hear the actuator jumping around. So, I'm not sure if the remaining ill behavior is all the fault of the actuator (or maybe linkages needing lube), or a part of the CC amp which is still not working. My gut tells me that the amp is still not working 100%. Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 321k miles '95 E300 274k miles (project) '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
Alex, I may take you up on that, I think that mine's flaky in at least one way. I've got a big road trip next week, we'll see how it goes. How much did you pay for the rebuilt CC amp? I think mine is no longer acceptable as a core if I end up going that route... -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Alex Chamberlain Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 11:54 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide On Wed, Mar 24, 2010 at 6:28 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote: So, I'm not sure if the remaining ill behavior is all the fault of the actuator Max, If you decide it's the actuator, and can't or don't want to fix yours, I have a brand new one I'll sell you for a lot less than Rusty's price. Bought it from him a few years ago, then found that the CC on my '87 worked perfectly after replacing the amplifier with a rebuilt one from GDL, so I never put in the actuator. (Which is a pain anyway since it's buried under the manifold or at least the crossover pipe, IIRC.) Let me know off list. Alex Chamberlain '87 300D, '86 300E, '82 500SEL Euro, passel of Saabs ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
That's a nice soldering station, much much more advanced than the dinosaur I'm using. Hard to justify $100 for the very small amount of soldering I do though. Maybe after I get the 'project' on the road... I've got a good write-up on diagnosing the CC amp which was printed in The Star many moons ago. A o-scope is required - are you interested in putting your new toy to use? -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 12:46 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide Hey that is an awesome writeup, I'm sure it will get referenced sometime soon. Max if you want a good soldering station you need one like this http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2X U I have one and it is great. I used to use those cheap Radio Shack things and cuss every time, I finally sprung for this for my new electronics hobbies/endeavors, and it is SO easy to get a good joint, it is amazing. You can get different tips, a tiny one is great for circuit boards and such. --R Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote: Dieselvolk, Last night I finally sorted out the cruise control on my '87 300TD. Thanks Jim for your excellent trouble shooting write-up, which I used to decide that the cruise control amplifier was not working. http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mamerepairs.html#cruisetest I pulled out the CC amp and re-soldered all the joints that look suspicious to my eye (about 1/4 of them or less), re-installed in the car and despite my doubts the system actually works! It will perform all functions, but it is jerky when the engine has to accelerate and then release. For instance, setting the CC will sometimes result in some stuttering. Going over small hills causes some stuttering. The CC take-up following stalk deceleration is very smooth, but there is stuttering after stalk acceleration. By stutter I mean that there will consistently be one jerk following stalk acceleration, and sometimes the same single jerk following setting the CC. Hills can cause the system to jerk several times then shut off. I did get some odd results from the measurements on the actuator motor. The motor windings measured about 10 ohms vice 5, and during the third test (with the three jumpers between various pins, key on but motor off) the actuator would move and the resistance would fall smoothly from 2.7k ohms to about 200 ohms, but when I held the stalk in the Accel position to drive the resistance to zero, the resistance would spike and I could hear the actuator jumping around. So, I'm not sure if the remaining ill behavior is all the fault of the actuator (or maybe linkages needing lube), or a part of the CC amp which is still not working. My gut tells me that the amp is still not working 100%. Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 321k miles '95 E300 274k miles (project) '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
fo sho. I could use a nice learning experience. --R Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote: That's a nice soldering station, much much more advanced than the dinosaur I'm using. Hard to justify $100 for the very small amount of soldering I do though. Maybe after I get the 'project' on the road... I've got a good write-up on diagnosing the CC amp which was printed in The Star many moons ago. A o-scope is required - are you interested in putting your new toy to use? -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 12:46 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide Hey that is an awesome writeup, I'm sure it will get referenced sometime soon. Max if you want a good soldering station you need one like this http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2X U I have one and it is great. I used to use those cheap Radio Shack things and cuss every time, I finally sprung for this for my new electronics hobbies/endeavors, and it is SO easy to get a good joint, it is amazing. You can get different tips, a tiny one is great for circuit boards and such. --R Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote: Dieselvolk, Last night I finally sorted out the cruise control on my '87 300TD. Thanks Jim for your excellent trouble shooting write-up, which I used to decide that the cruise control amplifier was not working. http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mamerepairs.html#cruisetest I pulled out the CC amp and re-soldered all the joints that look suspicious to my eye (about 1/4 of them or less), re-installed in the car and despite my doubts the system actually works! It will perform all functions, but it is jerky when the engine has to accelerate and then release. For instance, setting the CC will sometimes result in some stuttering. Going over small hills causes some stuttering. The CC take-up following stalk deceleration is very smooth, but there is stuttering after stalk acceleration. By stutter I mean that there will consistently be one jerk following stalk acceleration, and sometimes the same single jerk following setting the CC. Hills can cause the system to jerk several times then shut off. I did get some odd results from the measurements on the actuator motor. The motor windings measured about 10 ohms vice 5, and during the third test (with the three jumpers between various pins, key on but motor off) the actuator would move and the resistance would fall smoothly from 2.7k ohms to about 200 ohms, but when I held the stalk in the Accel position to drive the resistance to zero, the resistance would spike and I could hear the actuator jumping around. So, I'm not sure if the remaining ill behavior is all the fault of the actuator (or maybe linkages needing lube), or a part of the CC amp which is still not working. My gut tells me that the amp is still not working 100%. Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 321k miles '95 E300 274k miles (project) '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
I used a paint stripper You should probably recoat the board, since it is made of phenolic resin, which is hygroscopic. Using a solder sucker (or desoldering braid) and a 25w or smaller iron is a good idea. The old solder and flux isn't the best stuff and is hard to get to reflow and have a good joint as the result. Get the old stuff off and rework it with new solder. (You don't need 100% of it gone but you want at least 80-90% gone so that the new solder doesn't get contaminated) You should also replace the few electrolytic capacitors that are in there. I did that with one and then recoated it and it was still going years later when the car got totalled. I would love to build a bench test rig for the servo and the amp... -- John W Reames jwrea...@comcast.net Home: +14106646986 Mobile: +14437915905 On Mar 24, 2010, at 11:40, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote: Thanks for your write-up and advice. What is the best way to strip off the varnish? I didn't notice any corrosion, but will keep your wire brush tip in mind. I have an ancient home-made soldering iron, the tip is a little gross for this work, so I need to procure a better iron - can you recommend a model? I read one site which advised a 25 watt model. I also need to get a solder sucker. One site I read cautioned that overheating components like the integrated circuits was a potential pitfall to a DIY approach. I did a lot of soldering in college, so I'm pretty confident I know how much heat is enough to get a good joint. Do you think any of the components on this board are especially sensitive to heat? Thanks, Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 10:07 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide Congrats! I'm told that the feedback resistance track inside the CC actuator can get worn, and the jumpy resistance is reflected in spastic CC action around that point. Your amp still sounds like it might have feedback loop problems, that's the problem I always end up with, and which repeated resolderings takes care of. Go ahead and do the whole thing, and don't forget the fine wire brushing (Dremel) of the whole solder side before you start, that takes off corrosion that might prevent good contact. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
I'll dig around for the write-up and send it your way, but I probably won't be able to provide a specimen to practice on for a week or so. Will let you know. -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 2:31 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide fo sho. I could use a nice learning experience. --R Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote: That's a nice soldering station, much much more advanced than the dinosaur I'm using. Hard to justify $100 for the very small amount of soldering I do though. Maybe after I get the 'project' on the road... I've got a good write-up on diagnosing the CC amp which was printed in The Star many moons ago. A o-scope is required - are you interested in putting your new toy to use? -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 12:46 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide Hey that is an awesome writeup, I'm sure it will get referenced sometime soon. Max if you want a good soldering station you need one like this http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC 2X U I have one and it is great. I used to use those cheap Radio Shack things and cuss every time, I finally sprung for this for my new electronics hobbies/endeavors, and it is SO easy to get a good joint, it is amazing. You can get different tips, a tiny one is great for circuit boards and such. --R Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote: Dieselvolk, Last night I finally sorted out the cruise control on my '87 300TD. Thanks Jim for your excellent trouble shooting write-up, which I used to decide that the cruise control amplifier was not working. http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mamerepairs.html#cruisetest I pulled out the CC amp and re-soldered all the joints that look suspicious to my eye (about 1/4 of them or less), re-installed in the car and despite my doubts the system actually works! It will perform all functions, but it is jerky when the engine has to accelerate and then release. For instance, setting the CC will sometimes result in some stuttering. Going over small hills causes some stuttering. The CC take-up following stalk deceleration is very smooth, but there is stuttering after stalk acceleration. By stutter I mean that there will consistently be one jerk following stalk acceleration, and sometimes the same single jerk following setting the CC. Hills can cause the system to jerk several times then shut off. I did get some odd results from the measurements on the actuator motor. The motor windings measured about 10 ohms vice 5, and during the third test (with the three jumpers between various pins, key on but motor off) the actuator would move and the resistance would fall smoothly from 2.7k ohms to about 200 ohms, but when I held the stalk in the Accel position to drive the resistance to zero, the resistance would spike and I could hear the actuator jumping around. So, I'm not sure if the remaining ill behavior is all the fault of the actuator (or maybe linkages needing lube), or a part of the CC amp which is still not working. My gut tells me that the amp is still not working 100%. Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 321k miles '95 E300 274k miles (project) '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
John, Thanks for that tip, I had thought about it but didn't know if I should do that or not. What is used for the re-coat? -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of John Reames Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 2:34 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide I used a paint stripper You should probably recoat the board, since it is made of phenolic resin, which is hygroscopic. Using a solder sucker (or desoldering braid) and a 25w or smaller iron is a good idea. The old solder and flux isn't the best stuff and is hard to get to reflow and have a good joint as the result. Get the old stuff off and rework it with new solder. (You don't need 100% of it gone but you want at least 80-90% gone so that the new solder doesn't get contaminated) You should also replace the few electrolytic capacitors that are in there. I did that with one and then recoated it and it was still going years later when the car got totalled. I would love to build a bench test rig for the servo and the amp... -- John W Reames jwrea...@comcast.net Home: +14106646986 Mobile: +14437915905 On Mar 24, 2010, at 11:40, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote: Thanks for your write-up and advice. What is the best way to strip off the varnish? I didn't notice any corrosion, but will keep your wire brush tip in mind. I have an ancient home-made soldering iron, the tip is a little gross for this work, so I need to procure a better iron - can you recommend a model? I read one site which advised a 25 watt model. I also need to get a solder sucker. One site I read cautioned that overheating components like the integrated circuits was a potential pitfall to a DIY approach. I did a lot of soldering in college, so I'm pretty confident I know how much heat is enough to get a good joint. Do you think any of the components on this board are especially sensitive to heat? Thanks, Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 10:07 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide Congrats! I'm told that the feedback resistance track inside the CC actuator can get worn, and the jumpy resistance is reflected in spastic CC action around that point. Your amp still sounds like it might have feedback loop problems, that's the problem I always end up with, and which repeated resolderings takes care of. Go ahead and do the whole thing, and don't forget the fine wire brushing (Dremel) of the whole solder side before you start, that takes off corrosion that might prevent good contact. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
I think it is just varnish or shellac. You can buy spray cans of either at Lowes. --R Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote: John, Thanks for that tip, I had thought about it but didn't know if I should do that or not. What is used for the re-coat? -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of John Reames Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 2:34 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide I used a paint stripper You should probably recoat the board, since it is made of phenolic resin, which is hygroscopic. Using a solder sucker (or desoldering braid) and a 25w or smaller iron is a good idea. The old solder and flux isn't the best stuff and is hard to get to reflow and have a good joint as the result. Get the old stuff off and rework it with new solder. (You don't need 100% of it gone but you want at least 80-90% gone so that the new solder doesn't get contaminated) You should also replace the few electrolytic capacitors that are in there. I did that with one and then recoated it and it was still going years later when the car got totalled. I would love to build a bench test rig for the servo and the amp... -- John W Reames jwrea...@comcast.net Home: +14106646986 Mobile: +14437915905 On Mar 24, 2010, at 11:40, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote: Thanks for your write-up and advice. What is the best way to strip off the varnish? I didn't notice any corrosion, but will keep your wire brush tip in mind. I have an ancient home-made soldering iron, the tip is a little gross for this work, so I need to procure a better iron - can you recommend a model? I read one site which advised a 25 watt model. I also need to get a solder sucker. One site I read cautioned that overheating components like the integrated circuits was a potential pitfall to a DIY approach. I did a lot of soldering in college, so I'm pretty confident I know how much heat is enough to get a good joint. Do you think any of the components on this board are especially sensitive to heat? Thanks, Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 10:07 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide Congrats! I'm told that the feedback resistance track inside the CC actuator can get worn, and the jumpy resistance is reflected in spastic CC action around that point. Your amp still sounds like it might have feedback loop problems, that's the problem I always end up with, and which repeated resolderings takes care of. Go ahead and do the whole thing, and don't forget the fine wire brushing (Dremel) of the whole solder side before you start, that takes off corrosion that might prevent good contact. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
You can probably use a clear spray enamel... I had a can of proper conformal coating around... -- John W Reames jwrea...@comcast.net Home: +14106646986 Mobile: +14437915905 On Mar 24, 2010, at 15:09, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote: John, Thanks for that tip, I had thought about it but didn't know if I should do that or not. What is used for the re-coat? -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of John Reames Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 2:34 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide I used a paint stripper You should probably recoat the board, since it is made of phenolic resin, which is hygroscopic. Using a solder sucker (or desoldering braid) and a 25w or smaller iron is a good idea. The old solder and flux isn't the best stuff and is hard to get to reflow and have a good joint as the result. Get the old stuff off and rework it with new solder. (You don't need 100% of it gone but you want at least 80-90% gone so that the new solder doesn't get contaminated) You should also replace the few electrolytic capacitors that are in there. I did that with one and then recoated it and it was still going years later when the car got totalled. I would love to build a bench test rig for the servo and the amp... -- John W Reames jwrea...@comcast.net Home: +14106646986 Mobile: +14437915905 On Mar 24, 2010, at 11:40, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote: Thanks for your write-up and advice. What is the best way to strip off the varnish? I didn't notice any corrosion, but will keep your wire brush tip in mind. I have an ancient home-made soldering iron, the tip is a little gross for this work, so I need to procure a better iron - can you recommend a model? I read one site which advised a 25 watt model. I also need to get a solder sucker. One site I read cautioned that overheating components like the integrated circuits was a potential pitfall to a DIY approach. I did a lot of soldering in college, so I'm pretty confident I know how much heat is enough to get a good joint. Do you think any of the components on this board are especially sensitive to heat? Thanks, Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 10:07 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide Congrats! I'm told that the feedback resistance track inside the CC actuator can get worn, and the jumpy resistance is reflected in spastic CC action around that point. Your amp still sounds like it might have feedback loop problems, that's the problem I always end up with, and which repeated resolderings takes care of. Go ahead and do the whole thing, and don't forget the fine wire brushing (Dremel) of the whole solder side before you start, that takes off corrosion that might prevent good contact. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
On Wed, Mar 24, 2010 at 10:32 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote: How much did you pay for the rebuilt CC amp? I think mine is no longer acceptable as a core if I end up going that route... $245, see http://gdl-online.com/price1.html Seemed worth it, considering all the labor of stripping/resoldering the boards, which I'm not very good at anyway. I was doing a lot of long-distance driving where having functioning CC made a big difference to my comfort. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
There is ahobbiest version as well - http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-Soldering-Hobbyist-Yourselfer/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=pd_cp_hi_2 for $50 - I might be buying one of these. They also list a solder sucker for $4 - http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-DESOLDERING-PUMP/dp/B0002KRAAG/ref=reg_hu-wl_list-recs I'd like a copy of that diagnosing article if you find it as well - an excuse to fire up the old tek scope, if nothing else! On Wed, Mar 24, 2010 at 12:40 PM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote: That's a nice soldering station, much much more advanced than the dinosaur I'm using. Hard to justify $100 for the very small amount of soldering I do though. Maybe after I get the 'project' on the road... I've got a good write-up on diagnosing the CC amp which was printed in The Star many moons ago. A o-scope is required - are you interested in putting your new toy to use? -Max -- OK Don Panic! (the national past time). ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
Thanks for your write-up and advice. What is the best way to strip off the varnish? I use methylene-chloride-free paint stripper, typical hardware store stuff. I recoat with clear spray enamel. can you recommend a model? I read one site which advised a 25 watt model. I also need to get a solder sucker. I use an ancient Weller with a PL114 tip. Probably from the 70's. And a Sold-a-pullit sucker. One site I read cautioned that overheating components like the integrated circuits was a potential pitfall to a DIY approach. I did a lot of soldering in college, so I'm pretty confident I know how much heat is enough to get a good joint. Do you think any of the components on this board are especially sensitive to heat? No, no special caution required. I've fixed about a dozen of the things. I'm not sure that I've ever had a car that _didn't_ need that fixed. Plus the ones I did for others. Besides the testing guide, there are my notes: http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/JSLcruise.html and http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/cwcruise.html and http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/SDLcruise.html -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote: Thanks for your write-up and advice. What is the best way to strip off the varnish? I didn't notice any corrosion, but will keep your wire brush tip in mind. I have an ancient home-made soldering iron, the tip is a little gross for this work, so I need to procure a better iron - can you recommend a model? The best non-expensive unit I know is from MCM Electronics part number 21-8125 http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-8125$6.19 They also carry my favorite solder. http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-2280 1 lb $20.99 While your at it, you can get a decent little stand with a tip-cleaning sponge. http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-8165 $5.09 One site I read cautioned that overheating components like the integrated circuits was a potential pitfall to a DIY approach. I did a lot of soldering in college, so I'm pretty confident I know how much heat is enough to get a good joint. Do you think any of the components on this board are especially sensitive to heat? No, they are pretty big, heavy components. Sure, they can still be cooked, but watch the solder flow and don't heat longer than necessary and you will probably be just fine. -- Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote: I have an ancient home-made soldering iron, the tip is a little gross for this work, so I need to procure a better iron - can you recommend a model? Fmiser wrote: The best non-expensive unit I know is from MCM Electronics part number 21-8125 http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-8125$6.19 Yeah, I'm replying to myself. (is that the same as talking to myself?) I realized I didn't really say enough about this iron. If you look at the price only, you'll probably think it's just another RadioShack like soldering iron. It's not. I bought my first one to put in the loaner tool kit. It was so impressed I have recommended it to numerous people in the last 8 years (or so). On one project, a fellow disregarded my advise and bought a brand new Radio Shack piece of junk. Paid more than twice as much. I had one of these along anyway. At the end of the day, after soldering many dozens of audio connections, the tip on the Radio Shack iron was destroyed, and was a pain the whole day. This little $10 iron was fine. I have since put dozens of hours on the loaner, sold it, got another loaner and put a number of hours on it. I also got my kid one and I borrow it when mine sturdy old Ungar is in the car and I'm too lazy to go get it. In conclusion, my only complaint is I personally like a tip with a flat side. And one friend had his quit on him with less than a dozen hours use. But at this price, buy two and have a spare! -- Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fixed my Cruise using Jim C's guide
On Wed, 24 Mar 2010 19:55:05 -0500 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote: I'd like a copy of that diagnosing article if you find it as well - an excuse to fire up the old tek scope, if nothing else! Maybe Kaleb can put it on his website. Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
