Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-26 Thread Mitch Haley
John Berryman wrote:
 The PO of my 190D Euro had brake fluid changed by a local garage, they
 used DOT 3 it ruined the rubber in the entire brake hydraulic system. 

I had no idea there was a major chemical difference between 34.
Are you sure they didn't put DOT 5 silicone in it?



Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-26 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
you suck out all the fluid in the reservoir then refill with new, then 
go to each wheel and bleed it out till you get new fluid coming out.


LT Don wrote:


Marshall --

When you say flush do you mean drain the brake system completely (hope
that isn't what you mean), or do you mean suck out what one can from the
reservoir with a turkey baster and refill?

On 1/25/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:




Old brake fluid or DOT 3 fluid more than a year old can cause what's
happened to you. Current approved fluids are DOT-4 rated. I use
Valvoline synthetic (NOT silicone) that exceeds both DOT 3  4 ratings.
There are other DOT 4 fluids available, but most of them cost more than
the Valvoline and their specs are no better. Some of the colored ones
can make flushing marginally easier.

Marshall
--
 Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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turbo 237kmi

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Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-26 Thread Bob Rentfro


The fluid is DOT-3, almost exactly one year old. Perhaps I'll switch it out 
on next days off with DOT-4. Do I have to be super diligent and get all 
traces of DOT-3 out before DOT-4 goes in?


Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 148K
'01 VW Beetle TDI 61K
Litchfield Park, AZ


- Original Message - 
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes



Bob Rentfro wrote:
So...tonight I had an 18-wheeler pull right out in front of me. I was 
cooking along about 40mph or so. I was able to evade him while sliding to 
a stop inches from one of those 10 high curbs and several feet away from 
a lady in a little Saturn (who was covering her face waiting for the 
impact). The trucker drove on...so did I.
The next few times I applied the brakes they felt like they were wet 
(know what I mean?).
Fluid level is SAT and nothing is leaking so far as I can tell. So...like 
the spot on Letterman...is this anything?


Old brake fluid or DOT 3 fluid more than a year old can cause what's
happened to you. Current approved fluids are DOT-4 rated. I use
Valvoline synthetic (NOT silicone) that exceeds both DOT 3  4 ratings.
There are other DOT 4 fluids available, but most of them cost more than
the Valvoline and their specs are no better. Some of the colored ones
can make flushing marginally easier.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
turbo 237kmi

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Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-26 Thread Marshall Booth

Bob Rentfro wrote:
The fluid is DOT-3, almost exactly one year old. Perhaps I'll switch it out 
on next days off with DOT-4. Do I have to be super diligent and get all 
traces of DOT-3 out before DOT-4 goes in?


DOT 3  4 can be mixed, but the resultant will have properties somewhere 
in between. Their characteristics are similar EXCEPT that DOT 3 boils at 
a much lower temp and is more hygroscopic. Mercedes approved DOT 3 in 
all it's cars until the mid/late '80s when they changed to DOT 4 (maybe 
when ABS became common). You can use DOT 3 if you flush it more often 
(at least yearly). Dot 4 fluid is usually good for 2-3 years (except 
under severe conditions). Present approval lists call for DOT 4+ fluid.


There should be NOTHING in the brake system (providing all the parts are 
Mercedes approved) that DOT 3 fluid should cause to break down as long 
as it is changed before it sequesters too much water. If the fluid (DOT 
3 or DOT 4) is changed in a timely manner, the master cylinder and 
calipers will usually last MUCH longer that if the fluid is NOT changed 
according to Mercedes' recommendations.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-26 Thread John Berryman


On Wednesday, January 25, 2006, at 07:10 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:


I had no idea there was a major chemical difference between 34.
Are you sure they didn't put DOT 5 silicone in it?



	Yes I'm sure. The guy had the remains of the quart on his garage 
shelf. His mechanic gave it to him for topping off. It was Gold Seal 
brand DOT 3.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-26 Thread Dave M.
DOT 3 and 4 fluids are compatible, they just have different boiling
points. No need to drain  flush with alcohol or anything like that.
Just siphon the reservoir, fill with fresh DOT 4, and pressure bleed
(if possible) all 4 wheels. That's it.

DOT 5 (silicone) fluid is the nasty stuff that can cause problems...
it's not hygroscopic (doesn't absorb water) and you can end up with
rust or other problems due to that. Regular fluid absorbs water, which
is good - but it's also why the fluid must be replaced every year or
two!

Some exotic race fluids have been reported to damage seals or other
rubber bits, btw... but normal DOT 3/4 should never do that.

:)

-dm

 --
 Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 17:43:31 -0700
 From: Bob Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes


 The fluid is DOT-3, almost exactly one year old. Perhaps I'll switch it out
 on next days off with DOT-4. Do I have to be super diligent and get all
 traces of DOT-3 out before DOT-4 goes in?

 Bob Rentfro
 '77 300D 148K



Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-25 Thread Loren Faeth
Forgot to mention that the factory specifies the interval to change your 
brake fluid.  It is supposed to be at least each year, but I know few who 
do that.  However is DOES need to be done.  You want good brakes and good, 
sticky tires.


We could tell the drivers with DOT 3 fluid or old fluid on the track 
because the fluid boiled and they lost braking ability (fade).  We would 
pull them off the track and send them off to get their fluid changed before 
we'd allow them back on the track.   the best policy is to never allow DOT 
3 fluid near anything.  Dot 4 fluid can be used in place of DOT3, and it is 
better.  I used to put the Castrol GT in everything.


At 10:59 PM 1/24/2006, you wrote:
So...tonight I had an 18-wheeler pull right out in front of me. I was 
cooking along about 40mph or so. I was able to evade him while sliding to 
a stop inches from one of those 10 high curbs and several feet away from 
a lady in a little Saturn (who was covering her face waiting for the 
impact). The trucker drove on...so did I.
The next few times I applied the brakes they felt like they were wet (know 
what I mean?).
Fluid level is SAT and nothing is leaking so far as I can tell. So...like 
the spot on Letterman...is this anything?


Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 148K
'01 VW Beetle TDI 61K
Litchfield Park, AZ
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Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-25 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Tue, 24 Jan 2006 23:26:43 -0600 Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Yep, Brake fade.
 
 When I did tech inspections at Gemutlichkeit we could tell who had DOT 3
 or  old fluid, and who didn't.  The solution is to flush and change the 
 fluid.  Fresh brake fluid (from the approved list) has a higher boiling 
 point, and won't fade as easily.  YOU WANT brakes that don't fade.  20 
 years ago Castrol GT Brake fluid was the way to go, but it has fallen
 from  favor and availability.  I am sure others will chime in on what is
 currently available and meets the spec.

Call Rusty at (800) 741-5252 and buy what he sells (most likely ATE).


Craig



Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-25 Thread Tim C
Chiming in - if brake fade is the issue, try ATE Super Blue.

T

 Yep, Brake fade.
 
 When I did tech inspections at Gemutlichkeit we could tell 
 who had DOT 3 or 
 old fluid, and who didn't.  The solution is to flush and change the 
 fluid.  Fresh brake fluid (from the approved list) has a 
 higher boiling 
 point, and won't fade as easily.  YOU WANT brakes that don't 
 fade.  20 
 years ago Castrol GT Brake fluid was the way to go, but it 
 has fallen from 
 favor and availability.  I am sure others will chime in on what is 
 currently available and meets the spec.
 
 Loren



Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-25 Thread Jim Cathey

Yep, Brake fade.


From _40_ MPH?  One stop?  Could it be that your brakes
piddled a little fluid onto the rotors instead?

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-25 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Might want to take a look at your brake lines. sometimes older rubber 
brake lines after a HARD brake application ,can partially break down 
internally and start swelling on subsequent braking. usually there will 
be a bubbled out spot, or a soft spot in the rubber hose.


---Robert

Bob Rentfro wrote:

So...tonight I had an 18-wheeler pull right out in front of me. I was cooking along 
about 40mph or so. I was able to evade him while sliding to a stop inches from one 
of those 10 high curbs and several feet away from a lady in a little Saturn 
(who was covering her face waiting for the impact). The trucker drove on...so did I.
The next few times I applied the brakes they felt like they were wet (know what 
I mean?).
Fluid level is SAT and nothing is leaking so far as I can tell. So...like the 
spot on Letterman...is this anything?

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 148K
'01 VW Beetle TDI 61K
Litchfield Park, AZ 
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Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-25 Thread Kevin
On Tue, Jan 24, 2006 at 11:21:12PM -0800, Jim Cathey wrote:
  Yep, Brake fade.
 
  From _40_ MPH?  One stop?  Could it be that your brakes
 piddled a little fluid onto the rotors instead?

That's my guess, having done a panic stop in the same vehicle (but one
year newer) yesterday. Leaky caliper bore perhaps?

My DRUM braked cars didn't fade trying to panic stop from 40. 55 was an
entirely different story...

K



Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-25 Thread Mitch Haley
Loren Faeth wrote:
 20 years ago Castrol GT Brake fluid was the way to go, but it has
 fallen from favor and availability.

Last I knew you could still get it from Meijer supermarkets in
the midwest, I haven't looked to see if Walmart has it. It's 
decent DOT4 fluid, I quit buying it because I have a general
boycott of products that say Castrol on the bottle since
they started the whole business of selling hydrotreated oil
as full synthetic. 
There are lots of ways to go, I buy Valvoline synthetic
because it's cheap, and alternate it with ATE Superblue from
Rusty because Superblue doesn't look like last year's Valvoline
and I easily can tell when my change/flush is complete.



Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-25 Thread Kris Gilmore

At 07:46 AM 1/25/2006, Mitch Haley wrote re. DOT 4 brake fluid:


There are lots of ways to go, I buy Valvoline synthetic
because it's cheap, and alternate it with ATE Superblue from
Rusty because Superblue doesn't look like last year's Valvoline
and I easily can tell when my change/flush is complete.


 I used to use Castrol GT but started using the Valvoline synthetic 
because Marshall said good things about it.  I now have it in most of my 
vehicles and in two situations it has solved long term sticky caliper 
problems.  First in an 87 Polaris fourwheeler that has one brake only, the 
caliper of which was sticking despite efforts taking it apart and shinning 
things up with crocus cloth.  Same thing on the front calipers of an 87 
Ford 700.  Good stuff.


 Dave Gilmore, Cameron WV

 I'm nobody!  Who are you?
 Are you - Nobody - Too?








Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-25 Thread Dave M.
Hi all,

I hate to pick nits, but I wanted to clarify something. IMO, brake
fade refers specifically to overheated brakes - usually exceeding
the temperature rating of the pad compound, resulting in a lack of
friction, and therefore stopping power. This can also include rotors
that are too small to dissipate the heat generated - that's why
high-performance cars have huge brake rotors. This excess heat can
cause the brake fluid to boil, and when that happens, you get a spongy
pedal, etc and the fluid should be replaced pronto (it doesn't go back
to normal when it cools). So while brake fade can cause the fluid to
boil, the fluid doesn't fail and *cause* brake fade - but the symptoms
could be easily confused. Definitely check the hoses, pads, rotors,
and replace the fluid if over 2 years old.

Normally all of this is related to REPEATED hard brake use - think
racetrack or autocross, where every 10-30 seconds you're standing on
the brakes from fairly high speeds. The best brake fluid in the world
won't do any good if the brakes are too small, or you have a street
pad compound that fades at low temps. What was originally described
*could* have been fade, but sure shouldn't be after one hard stop from
40-0!! It could have glazed the pads/rotors or something perhaps. But
it definitely would not affect the brake fluid unless the reservoir
was accidentally filled with Zerex G-05 or something, lol.

About pads... most OE/OEM pads are designed for light pedal effort and
low noise. Pads that claim to be low-dust may require more pedal
effort and/or be noisier. Race pads that can withstand really high
temps (much more fade resistant) are usually high-effort, noisy, and
dirty - or REALLY expensive! I have Porterfield R4-S carbon-Kevlar
pads, which have great feel, are quiet, last a long time, and are
fairly low dust but most people would choke at the cost (at least
double what most OEM pads cost). I'm a big fan of the R4-S pads,
btw... they're available for most Mercedes. So far most people who
have tried them love them. Cheapest to buy direct from the mfr...
www.porterfield-brakes.com.

Fluid: I did a ton of research on this in the past, to find what
fluids have the highest boil points. The summary is, the best stuff at
the best price that's available everywhere is Valvoline SynPower brake
fluid, about $6/quart at any FLAPS. The next step up for the picky
folks is ATE Super Blue or ATE  Type200 Gold (same stuff, different
color dye), but it costs twice as much ($10-$12 per quart). Beyond
that, Motul 600 has even higher boil points, but the cost doubles
again - $20-$25 per quart. Those are the three top street fluids,
IMNSHO. There are more exotic fluids out there, but in general they
need frequent replacement (think weeks or months, not years) and the
cost gets just stupid. Those are strictly for racetrack use, if the
ATE or Motul fluids are boiling (!!!) and the pads/rotors are still
within their rated temp range.

Sorry for the long rant... now back to your daily moose and Mobil-1.

:-)

Dave M.
Boise, ID
(Valvoline or ATE brake fluids in all my vehicles)



 --
 Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 21:40:08 -0800
 From: Tim C [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes


 Chiming in - if brake fade is the issue, try ATE Super Blue.

 T

  Yep, Brake fade.
 
  When I did tech inspections at Gemutlichkeit we could tell
  who had DOT 3 or
  old fluid, and who didn't.  The solution is to flush and change the
  fluid.  Fresh brake fluid (from the approved list) has a
  higher boiling
  point, and won't fade as easily.  YOU WANT brakes that don't
  fade.  20
  years ago Castrol GT Brake fluid was the way to go, but it
  has fallen from
  favor and availability.  I am sure others will chime in on what is
  currently available and meets the spec.
 
  Loren



Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-25 Thread Loren Faeth

Good points and good info, Dave!  Thanks!

At 11:13 AM 1/25/2006, you wrote:

Hi all,

I hate to pick nits, but I wanted to clarify something. IMO, brake
fade refers specifically to overheated brakes - usually exceeding
the temperature rating of the pad compound, resulting in a lack of
friction, and therefore stopping power. This can also include rotors
that are too small to dissipate the heat generated - that's why
high-performance cars have huge brake rotors. This excess heat can
cause the brake fluid to boil, and when that happens, you get a spongy
pedal, etc and the fluid should be replaced pronto (it doesn't go back
to normal when it cools). So while brake fade can cause the fluid to
boil, the fluid doesn't fail and *cause* brake fade - but the symptoms
could be easily confused. Definitely check the hoses, pads, rotors,
and replace the fluid if over 2 years old.

Normally all of this is related to REPEATED hard brake use - think
racetrack or autocross, where every 10-30 seconds you're standing on
the brakes from fairly high speeds. The best brake fluid in the world
won't do any good if the brakes are too small, or you have a street
pad compound that fades at low temps. What was originally described
*could* have been fade, but sure shouldn't be after one hard stop from
40-0!! It could have glazed the pads/rotors or something perhaps. But
it definitely would not affect the brake fluid unless the reservoir
was accidentally filled with Zerex G-05 or something, lol.

About pads... most OE/OEM pads are designed for light pedal effort and
low noise. Pads that claim to be low-dust may require more pedal
effort and/or be noisier. Race pads that can withstand really high
temps (much more fade resistant) are usually high-effort, noisy, and
dirty - or REALLY expensive! I have Porterfield R4-S carbon-Kevlar
pads, which have great feel, are quiet, last a long time, and are
fairly low dust but most people would choke at the cost (at least
double what most OEM pads cost). I'm a big fan of the R4-S pads,
btw... they're available for most Mercedes. So far most people who
have tried them love them. Cheapest to buy direct from the mfr...
www.porterfield-brakes.com.

Fluid: I did a ton of research on this in the past, to find what
fluids have the highest boil points. The summary is, the best stuff at
the best price that's available everywhere is Valvoline SynPower brake
fluid, about $6/quart at any FLAPS. The next step up for the picky
folks is ATE Super Blue or ATE  Type200 Gold (same stuff, different
color dye), but it costs twice as much ($10-$12 per quart). Beyond
that, Motul 600 has even higher boil points, but the cost doubles
again - $20-$25 per quart. Those are the three top street fluids,
IMNSHO. There are more exotic fluids out there, but in general they
need frequent replacement (think weeks or months, not years) and the
cost gets just stupid. Those are strictly for racetrack use, if the
ATE or Motul fluids are boiling (!!!) and the pads/rotors are still
within their rated temp range.

Sorry for the long rant... now back to your daily moose and Mobil-1.

:-)

Dave M.
Boise, ID
(Valvoline or ATE brake fluids in all my vehicles)



 --
 Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 21:40:08 -0800
 From: Tim C [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes


 Chiming in - if brake fade is the issue, try ATE Super Blue.

 T

  Yep, Brake fade.
 
  When I did tech inspections at Gemutlichkeit we could tell
  who had DOT 3 or
  old fluid, and who didn't.  The solution is to flush and change the
  fluid.  Fresh brake fluid (from the approved list) has a
  higher boiling
  point, and won't fade as easily.  YOU WANT brakes that don't
  fade.  20
  years ago Castrol GT Brake fluid was the way to go, but it
  has fallen from
  favor and availability.  I am sure others will chime in on what is
  currently available and meets the spec.
 
  Loren

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Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-25 Thread LT Don
I tried to find DOT-4 for the VW in Jefferson and at the Carroll WalMart.
Not to be found. Where can I get it? Do I need to look for some specific
brand?

--
1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-25 Thread LT Don
Thanks for the info.

On 1/25/06, Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Look for Valvoline SynPower fluid, which is a DOT 4+ fluid. Should be
 at almost all chain part stores - think AutoZone,
 Kragen/Shucks/Checker, NAPA, etc...

 BTW - nice VeeDub you have there! Wouldn't mind replacing my Dasher
 with one of those!

 :)

 +dm




--
1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-25 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
ETY parts has the VW dot4 brake fluid ( I have a bottle of this stuff, I 
think it's made by pentosin ) 
http://www.etyproducts.com/quantity%20discounts.html

They have decent price on Diesel Purge as well.
The ATE super blue/amber are great fluids and make it easy to tel when 
you are changing out brake fluid


---Robert

LT Don wrote:

I tried to find DOT-4 for the VW in Jefferson and at the Carroll WalMart.
Not to be found. Where can I get it? Do I need to look for some specific
brand?

--
1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-25 Thread John Berryman


On Wednesday, January 25, 2006, at 12:46 PM, LT Don wrote:

I tried to find DOT-4 for the VW in Jefferson and at the Carroll 
WalMart.
Not to be found. Where can I get it? Do I need to look for some 
specific

brand?



	 Valvoline Synthetic is fine. It exceeds DOT 34, available all over. 
I recently bought some at Advance Auto Parts


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-25 Thread Marshall Booth

Bob Rentfro wrote:

So...tonight I had an 18-wheeler pull right out in front of me. I was cooking along 
about 40mph or so. I was able to evade him while sliding to a stop inches from one 
of those 10 high curbs and several feet away from a lady in a little Saturn 
(who was covering her face waiting for the impact). The trucker drove on...so did I.
The next few times I applied the brakes they felt like they were wet (know what 
I mean?).
Fluid level is SAT and nothing is leaking so far as I can tell. So...like the 
spot on Letterman...is this anything?


Old brake fluid or DOT 3 fluid more than a year old can cause what's 
happened to you. Current approved fluids are DOT-4 rated. I use 
Valvoline synthetic (NOT silicone) that exceeds both DOT 3  4 ratings. 
There are other DOT 4 fluids available, but most of them cost more than 
the Valvoline and their specs are no better. Some of the colored ones 
can make flushing marginally easier.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-25 Thread LT Don
Marshall --

When you say flush do you mean drain the brake system completely (hope
that isn't what you mean), or do you mean suck out what one can from the
reservoir with a turkey baster and refill?

On 1/25/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



 Old brake fluid or DOT 3 fluid more than a year old can cause what's
 happened to you. Current approved fluids are DOT-4 rated. I use
 Valvoline synthetic (NOT silicone) that exceeds both DOT 3  4 ratings.
 There are other DOT 4 fluids available, but most of them cost more than
 the Valvoline and their specs are no better. Some of the colored ones
 can make flushing marginally easier.

 Marshall
 --
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
 turbo 237kmi

 ___
 http://www.striplin.net
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net




--
1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-25 Thread Marshall Booth

LT Don wrote:

Marshall --

When you say flush do you mean drain the brake system completely (hope
that isn't what you mean), or do you mean suck out what one can from the
reservoir with a turkey baster and refill?



If you remove the content (with turkey baster or Topsider) of the 
reservoir and replace with fresh fluid and then bleed out about 80 ml 
from each caliper (replenish if you don't have a pressure bleeder that 
does that automatically), you've pretty well flushed the system. A 
complete hydraulic system with a manual clutch contains 0.5 liters for a 
123 and 0.35 liters for a 201/124. For an automatic it would be 15-25% 
less I GUESS.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] Tropming on the Brakes

2006-01-25 Thread John Berryman


On Wednesday, January 25, 2006, at 04:39 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:


Old brake fluid or DOT 3 fluid more than a year old can cause what's
happened to you.


	The PO of my 190D Euro had brake fluid changed by a local garage, they 
used DOT 3 it ruined the rubber in the entire brake hydraulic system. I 
didn't test the hoses but replaced them 2 of the calipers had some 
fluid in the outer bellows and another was dripping real good. The 
reservoir cap seal had melted into the threads of the reservoir which 
had black gooey fluid. I've seen this with other people's cars and a 
bunch of Brit stuff over the years but never had the pleasure of having 
this problem on one of my own cars until recently.

Its real important that approved fluid is used. DOT 3 Kills in a MB.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am