Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Every used Mercedes should come with a free hammer.

On Tue, Dec 4, 2018 at 8:46 AM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> That list of improvements deserves a couple of Attaboys.
>
> Mitch.
>
>
> > On December 4, 2018 at 12:20 AM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Finally got a hammer down there to bang on it. That did the trick!
>
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

That list of improvements deserves a couple of Attaboys. 

Mitch. 


> On December 4, 2018 at 12:20 AM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Finally got a hammer down there to bang on it. That did the trick!

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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

You still need to buy and install a reman or new starter.  Strong 
work on the rest.


I carry about 29-30" of half inch copper pipe in the 240D.   It works to 
whack the solenoid, and also to jump the solenoid.


Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes wrote on 12/3/18 11:20 PM:

Finally got a hammer down there to bang on it. That did the trick! Fired
right up. Man the new brakes are awesome. Of course the claw on the hammer
pulled the transmission and vacuum shutoff lines off the injection pump, so
after I drove the front end up on the leaning towers of lumber pyramid
scheme, it wouldnt shut off.

Headlight bulb is now out on the left side, and my glass is all pitted
anyway. I thought I had new hella lenses coming from Latvia but apparently
they want a bank transfer or something.

Passenger seat is all recovered after epic sessions with the instrument
panel removal tool and a million little white clips. Just need to cut some
holes in the cover for headrest and arm rest, which has me measuring twice
and cutting once. I will drop this seat onto the drivers side adjuster,
then pull my old drivers seat to swap the non memory motors into sportline
frame #2

I got a seat heater harness out of Russia, so that will have to go in
sometime with a new console wood.

Water to air setup is pretty much together. It will get welded into the
intake after some creative amputation with the table saw. I am trying to
find some thin little curved radiators to fit under the bumper cover. The
yzf1000r radiators are the only curved ones I know of, but they are curved
a bit too much I think. No air to air as I am keeping the ac.

Got some sportline rear shocks out of the fatherland. There were only 3
left. Tried to find the Sachs part number but nothing listed. I think it
was discontinued long ago. The regular s124 ones are still obtainable from
Sachs in a couple of flavors fyi.

Oh yes and the air no longer blows hot for some reason. Need to sort that
out.

Joys of old car ownership. At least the s123 is fully sorted. Man that
thing is just nice. They should all get the new steering box, new head, new
turbo and new transmission treatment. About the only things not new are the
halfshafts and rear subframe bushings. Maybe a 15" wheel upgrade and Gen 2
126 brakes would be nice.

Thanks to everyone who chimed in about the w124 no start. Thinking of
replacing the neutral safety switch on general principal. Bushings are
quite loose.

On Dec 3, 2018 7:30 AM, "Dan Penoff via Mercedes" 
wrote:

You’re really limited on this car as to what the problem can be:

Battery (not)
Neutral safety switch (not)
Solenoid
Starter

Get a piece of wood, long ratchet extension or baseball bat and give the
starter and solenoid a good 2-3 smacks, real hard.

I’m betting the solenoid is stuck or hung up.  once this brute force
approach frees it up, order a rebuilt started from a trusted supplier.


-D




On Dec 3, 2018, at 10:25 AM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Thanks I tried it with a half inch ratchet, but no go. It has to be the
solenoid since it doesnt even click.

On Sun, Dec 2, 2018, 7:41 PM Scott Ritchey via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:


I've experienced starters with "dead spots" or stuck brushes.  Try
whacking it a couple times with a hammer.


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Karl
Wittnebel via Mercedes
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2018 8:30 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz com 
Cc: Karl Wittnebel 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

Shorting the pins at the terminal block does nothing. I jumped the car

also, and

the behavior did not change. I did note that shifting the car into and

out of

park and neutral while the switch is in the start position caused

dimming of all

the dash lights, implying a short in the system and also implying that

the

neutral safety switch is operating correctly.





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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Bravo!  Now add "new solenoid" or new starter to your shopping list.  You
may be able to get more life from this starter / solenoid by disassembly
and cleaning (note that the solenoid inner workings don't get grease or
oil, they are supposed to be dry).

Bosch makes the solenoids, they can be sourced separately.  I found one
online, it was billed as a BMW part and had the wrong terminal (male blade
for a push-on connection) but I was able to make it work with some creative
solution.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Tue, Dec 4, 2018 at 12:21 AM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Finally got a hammer down there to bang on it. That did the trick! Fired
> right up.
>
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes]

>
> ATTABOY!  :)


-MMM-
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

Finally got a hammer down there to bang on it. That did the trick. Fired
right up. Of course the claw on the hammer pulled the transmission and
vacuum shutoff lines off the injection pump, so after I drove the front end
up on the leaning towers of lumber pyramid scheme in preparation for
starter removal, it wouldnt shut off...

Man the new brakes are awesome. I can absolutely recommend the dual
diaphragm r129 booster, 500e master cylinder, 500e aluminum fronts and
600sl rears. The car had late model wagon calipers and stock 87 booster on
it before, 294mm dual piston ate fronts.  These new are the biggest that
will fit under a 16" r129 wheel, with 300mm rotors. I was worried my el
cheapo stoptech cryo rotors would have some terrible stopping properties,
and the old single booster required serious leg muscles, so I wasnt sure if
I had a pad and rotor issue or a pressure issue, but it turned out to be
the latter. The car stops RIGHT NOW but still has modulation. I havent
pushed it to fade again yet, but its nice to know I can put my wife in it
and have it behave like her bmw x5d with m brakes used to - before it died
at 8000 miles. I guess it stopped better than it went also! Epidemic.

Headlight bulb is now out on the left side, and my glass is all pitted
anyway. I thought I had new hella lenses coming from Latvia but apparently
they want a bank transfer or something. Tempted by LED retrofit bulbs, but
I have no idea what the pattern is on those. Do they blind oncoming
traffic? What would Daniel Stern do...

Got 2 of the last 3 w124 sportline hydroshocks aus der faterland. Maybe
should have purchased the spare also. I wonder if sachs will rebuild them
in a pinch?

Also lubed the brake pedal so it no longer squeaks at the pin and threw in
a new brake light switch.

I agree with whoever said w123 cars just keep going. Hope same is true for
this one once it is all sorted out.

Next up: starter, then subframe bushings for everything. Does anyone know
how to tell a worn subframe bushing by looking at it? I have a v8 subframe
to swap in and the bushings all look pretty new. Prob best to swap on
general principle.

On Dec 3, 2018 7:30 AM, "Dan Penoff via Mercedes" 
wrote:

You’re really limited on this car as to what the problem can be:

Battery (not)
Neutral safety switch (not)
Solenoid
Starter

Get a piece of wood, long ratchet extension or baseball bat and give the
starter and solenoid a good 2-3 smacks, real hard.

I’m betting the solenoid is stuck or hung up.  once this brute force
approach frees it up, order a rebuilt started from a trusted supplier.


-D



> On Dec 3, 2018, at 10:25 AM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks I tried it with a half inch ratchet, but no go. It has to be the
> solenoid since it doesnt even click.
>
> On Sun, Dec 2, 2018, 7:41 PM Scott Ritchey via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
>
>> I've experienced starters with "dead spots" or stuck brushes.  Try
>> whacking it a couple times with a hammer.
>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Karl
>>> Wittnebel via Mercedes
>>> Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2018 8:30 PM
>>> To: mercedes@okiebenz com 
>>> Cc: Karl Wittnebel 
>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td
>>>
>>> Shorting the pins at the terminal block does nothing. I jumped the car
>> also, and
>>> the behavior did not change. I did note that shifting the car into and
>> out of
>>> park and neutral while the switch is in the start position caused
>> dimming of all
>>> the dash lights, implying a short in the system and also implying that
>> the
>>> neutral safety switch is operating correctly.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

Finally got a hammer down there to bang on it. That did the trick! Fired
right up. Man the new brakes are awesome. Of course the claw on the hammer
pulled the transmission and vacuum shutoff lines off the injection pump, so
after I drove the front end up on the leaning towers of lumber pyramid
scheme, it wouldnt shut off.

Headlight bulb is now out on the left side, and my glass is all pitted
anyway. I thought I had new hella lenses coming from Latvia but apparently
they want a bank transfer or something.

Passenger seat is all recovered after epic sessions with the instrument
panel removal tool and a million little white clips. Just need to cut some
holes in the cover for headrest and arm rest, which has me measuring twice
and cutting once. I will drop this seat onto the drivers side adjuster,
then pull my old drivers seat to swap the non memory motors into sportline
frame #2

I got a seat heater harness out of Russia, so that will have to go in
sometime with a new console wood.

Water to air setup is pretty much together. It will get welded into the
intake after some creative amputation with the table saw. I am trying to
find some thin little curved radiators to fit under the bumper cover. The
yzf1000r radiators are the only curved ones I know of, but they are curved
a bit too much I think. No air to air as I am keeping the ac.

Got some sportline rear shocks out of the fatherland. There were only 3
left. Tried to find the Sachs part number but nothing listed. I think it
was discontinued long ago. The regular s124 ones are still obtainable from
Sachs in a couple of flavors fyi.

Oh yes and the air no longer blows hot for some reason. Need to sort that
out.

Joys of old car ownership. At least the s123 is fully sorted. Man that
thing is just nice. They should all get the new steering box, new head, new
turbo and new transmission treatment. About the only things not new are the
halfshafts and rear subframe bushings. Maybe a 15" wheel upgrade and Gen 2
126 brakes would be nice.

Thanks to everyone who chimed in about the w124 no start. Thinking of
replacing the neutral safety switch on general principal. Bushings are
quite loose.

On Dec 3, 2018 7:30 AM, "Dan Penoff via Mercedes" 
wrote:

You’re really limited on this car as to what the problem can be:

Battery (not)
Neutral safety switch (not)
Solenoid
Starter

Get a piece of wood, long ratchet extension or baseball bat and give the
starter and solenoid a good 2-3 smacks, real hard.

I’m betting the solenoid is stuck or hung up.  once this brute force
approach frees it up, order a rebuilt started from a trusted supplier.


-D



> On Dec 3, 2018, at 10:25 AM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks I tried it with a half inch ratchet, but no go. It has to be the
> solenoid since it doesnt even click.
>
> On Sun, Dec 2, 2018, 7:41 PM Scott Ritchey via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
>
>> I've experienced starters with "dead spots" or stuck brushes.  Try
>> whacking it a couple times with a hammer.
>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Karl
>>> Wittnebel via Mercedes
>>> Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2018 8:30 PM
>>> To: mercedes@okiebenz com 
>>> Cc: Karl Wittnebel 
>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td
>>>
>>> Shorting the pins at the terminal block does nothing. I jumped the car
>> also, and
>>> the behavior did not change. I did note that shifting the car into and
>> out of
>>> park and neutral while the switch is in the start position caused
>> dimming of all
>>> the dash lights, implying a short in the system and also implying that
>> the
>>> neutral safety switch is operating correctly.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>


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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

In my W123 wagon (1983) there is a plastic box in the engine bay which has
some screwed-tight wire connectors that can get loose.  If so, the car will
not crank.  Sorry I don't have the correct term for this or whether it even
applies to you but if it does, it is a cheap and easy fix.

On Mon, Dec 3, 2018 at 11:41 AM Mike Esh via Mercedes 
wrote:

> I’ve never tried it, but would and an inner tube work in the same manner?
> Place under car, blow up with portable air compressor, place jack stands,
> get the work done, remove.
> Or just use a floor jack.
>
>
> > On Dec 3, 2018, at 10:29 AM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > Yes. Weirdly I have a starter in the garage that looks pretty new, so
> now I
> > just have to figure out now to not get run over on the street where it is
> > parked. And also how to get under the car; it is pretty low and has belly
> > pans. I always loved those inflatable bag things they used to use in the
> > sand to lift cars out with exhaust pressure; would make for an easy way
> to
> > put one side of the car on stands.
> >
> > On Sun, Dec 2, 2018, 7:48 PM Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
> >
> >> Time for a new starter, methinks...
> >> -
> >> Max
> >> Charleston SC
> >>
> >>
> >> On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 8:30 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Shorting the pins at the terminal block does nothing. I jumped the car
> >>> also, and the behavior did not change. I did note that shifting the car
> >>> into and out of park and neutral while the switch is in the start
> >> position
> >>> caused dimming of all the dash lights, implying a short in the system
> and
> >>> also implying that the neutral safety switch is operating correctly.
> >>>
> >>> On Sun, Dec 2, 2018, 4:57 AM M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes <
> >>> mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
> >>>
>  Sounds legit to me.  If memory serves, high-draw items like starters
> >> tend
>  to have fusible links rather than fuses.   It sounds as though you're
>  getting power to the starter.  I'm gonna go along with the bad
> >>> starter/bad
>  connection theory.   Have you tried to put 12VDC to the starter itself
> >>> yet?
> 
>  -MMM-
> 
>  On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 12:22 AM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
>  mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
> > Yes I checked them and wiggled them all.
> >
> > But here's the thing: there is no fuse labeled "starter". I am not
> >>> sure,
> > given that all dash lights are on when key is turned on, that there
> >> is
>  any
> > fuse failure that could produce this symptom. The key energizes a
> >> relay
> > somewhere when turned to start position. If the switch has any power
> >> at
> > all, I assume the fuse is good, whatever it is called.
> >
> > Is this correct?
> >
> > K
> >
> > On Sat, Dec 1, 2018, 8:58 PM M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
> >
> >> Have you CHECKED all the FUSES?
> >>
> >> -M. Mitchell Marshall
> >> ___
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> >>
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> >
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Mike Esh via Mercedes]

I’ve never tried it, but would and an inner tube work in the same manner? Place 
under car, blow up with portable air compressor, place jack stands, get the 
work done, remove.
Or just use a floor jack.


> On Dec 3, 2018, at 10:29 AM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yes. Weirdly I have a starter in the garage that looks pretty new, so now I
> just have to figure out now to not get run over on the street where it is
> parked. And also how to get under the car; it is pretty low and has belly
> pans. I always loved those inflatable bag things they used to use in the
> sand to lift cars out with exhaust pressure; would make for an easy way to
> put one side of the car on stands.
> 
> On Sun, Dec 2, 2018, 7:48 PM Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
> 
>> Time for a new starter, methinks...
>> -
>> Max
>> Charleston SC
>> 
>> 
>> On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 8:30 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> Shorting the pins at the terminal block does nothing. I jumped the car
>>> also, and the behavior did not change. I did note that shifting the car
>>> into and out of park and neutral while the switch is in the start
>> position
>>> caused dimming of all the dash lights, implying a short in the system and
>>> also implying that the neutral safety switch is operating correctly.
>>> 
>>> On Sun, Dec 2, 2018, 4:57 AM M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
>>> 
 Sounds legit to me.  If memory serves, high-draw items like starters
>> tend
 to have fusible links rather than fuses.   It sounds as though you're
 getting power to the starter.  I'm gonna go along with the bad
>>> starter/bad
 connection theory.   Have you tried to put 12VDC to the starter itself
>>> yet?
 
 -MMM-
 
 On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 12:22 AM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
 mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
 
> Yes I checked them and wiggled them all.
> 
> But here's the thing: there is no fuse labeled "starter". I am not
>>> sure,
> given that all dash lights are on when key is turned on, that there
>> is
 any
> fuse failure that could produce this symptom. The key energizes a
>> relay
> somewhere when turned to start position. If the switch has any power
>> at
> all, I assume the fuse is good, whatever it is called.
> 
> Is this correct?
> 
> K
> 
> On Sat, Dec 1, 2018, 8:58 PM M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
> 
>> Have you CHECKED all the FUSES?
>> 
>> -M. Mitchell Marshall
>> ___
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

If it does not even click, but the lights dim, then what you have is a severe
battery _connection_ problem.  The solenoid itself does not draw all that much
current, and should not affect lights at all.  If the solenoid clicks, meaning 
that
it has engaged the starting windings, and the lights dim, then it could be the
starter itself.

If it doesn't click, and the lights dim, it is NOT THE STARTER!  Thoroughly 
check,
and clean, ALL battery cables, including the heavy 
chassis-to-engine/transmission
cable underneath that often is ignored.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Unhook battery terminal(s) and the cable/wire at the starter
Take a floor jack and 2 jack stands or piles of blocks.  Go under from 
the front.

A couple layers of cardboard to lay on /slide on helps too.
small screw could be straight or phillips.
Big cable is 13mm
Bolts are 17mm, you will need a 18-24" breaker bar and a fine tooth ratchet

Crockauto has reman Bosch for about 140-150, Try advance with the 20% 
off.  That may be competitive for a Bosch Reman.




Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes 
December 3, 2018 at 9:29 AM
Yes. Weirdly I have a starter in the garage that looks pretty new, so 
now I

just have to figure out now to not get run over on the street where it is
parked. And also how to get under the car; it is pretty low and has belly
pans. I always loved those inflatable bag things they used to use in the
sand to lift cars out with exhaust pressure; would make for an easy way to
put one side of the car on stands.



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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

You’re really limited on this car as to what the problem can be:

Battery (not)
Neutral safety switch (not)
Solenoid
Starter

Get a piece of wood, long ratchet extension or baseball bat and give the 
starter and solenoid a good 2-3 smacks, real hard.

I’m betting the solenoid is stuck or hung up.  once this brute force approach 
frees it up, order a rebuilt started from a trusted supplier.

-D 



> On Dec 3, 2018, at 10:25 AM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks I tried it with a half inch ratchet, but no go. It has to be the
> solenoid since it doesnt even click.
> 
> On Sun, Dec 2, 2018, 7:41 PM Scott Ritchey via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
> 
>> I've experienced starters with "dead spots" or stuck brushes.  Try
>> whacking it a couple times with a hammer.
>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Karl
>>> Wittnebel via Mercedes
>>> Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2018 8:30 PM
>>> To: mercedes@okiebenz com 
>>> Cc: Karl Wittnebel 
>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td
>>> 
>>> Shorting the pins at the terminal block does nothing. I jumped the car
>> also, and
>>> the behavior did not change. I did note that shifting the car into and
>> out of
>>> park and neutral while the switch is in the start position caused
>> dimming of all
>>> the dash lights, implying a short in the system and also implying that
>> the
>>> neutral safety switch is operating correctly.
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

Yes. Weirdly I have a starter in the garage that looks pretty new, so now I
just have to figure out now to not get run over on the street where it is
parked. And also how to get under the car; it is pretty low and has belly
pans. I always loved those inflatable bag things they used to use in the
sand to lift cars out with exhaust pressure; would make for an easy way to
put one side of the car on stands.

On Sun, Dec 2, 2018, 7:48 PM Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

> Time for a new starter, methinks...
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
>
>
> On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 8:30 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > Shorting the pins at the terminal block does nothing. I jumped the car
> > also, and the behavior did not change. I did note that shifting the car
> > into and out of park and neutral while the switch is in the start
> position
> > caused dimming of all the dash lights, implying a short in the system and
> > also implying that the neutral safety switch is operating correctly.
> >
> > On Sun, Dec 2, 2018, 4:57 AM M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
> >
> > > Sounds legit to me.  If memory serves, high-draw items like starters
> tend
> > > to have fusible links rather than fuses.   It sounds as though you're
> > > getting power to the starter.  I'm gonna go along with the bad
> > starter/bad
> > > connection theory.   Have you tried to put 12VDC to the starter itself
> > yet?
> > >
> > > -MMM-
> > >
> > > On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 12:22 AM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
> > > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Yes I checked them and wiggled them all.
> > > >
> > > > But here's the thing: there is no fuse labeled "starter". I am not
> > sure,
> > > > given that all dash lights are on when key is turned on, that there
> is
> > > any
> > > > fuse failure that could produce this symptom. The key energizes a
> relay
> > > > somewhere when turned to start position. If the switch has any power
> at
> > > > all, I assume the fuse is good, whatever it is called.
> > > >
> > > > Is this correct?
> > > >
> > > > K
> > > >
> > > > On Sat, Dec 1, 2018, 8:58 PM M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes <
> > > > mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Have you CHECKED all the FUSES?
> > > > >
> > > > > -M. Mitchell Marshall
> > > > > ___
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> > > >
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

Thanks I tried it with a half inch ratchet, but no go. It has to be the
solenoid since it doesnt even click.

On Sun, Dec 2, 2018, 7:41 PM Scott Ritchey via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

> I've experienced starters with "dead spots" or stuck brushes.  Try
> whacking it a couple times with a hammer.
>
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Karl
> > Wittnebel via Mercedes
> > Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2018 8:30 PM
> > To: mercedes@okiebenz com 
> > Cc: Karl Wittnebel 
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td
> >
> > Shorting the pins at the terminal block does nothing. I jumped the car
> also, and
> > the behavior did not change. I did note that shifting the car into and
> out of
> > park and neutral while the switch is in the start position caused
> dimming of all
> > the dash lights, implying a short in the system and also implying that
> the
> > neutral safety switch is operating correctly.
> >
> >
>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

Thanks. It glows fine and started right up before I moved it down the
driveway. Problem is it will not crank.

On Dec 2, 2018 7:25 PM, "Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes" <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

If this is a diesel did you rule out the glow plug relay and fuse?


On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 9:03 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> you need to jump the Big terminal (B+) at the solenoid to the little
> terminal on the side of the solenoid.   If that does nothing, then jump
> the big B+ one to the bottom one, direct to the windings.   If the first
> does not start the car, and the starter turns (but won't engage) with
> the latter, the solenoid is bad, but the starter may still need to be
> replaced.   My bet is still that the starter is bad.
>
> > Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes 
> > December 2, 2018 at 7:30 PM
> > Shorting the pins at the terminal block does nothing. I jumped the car
> > also, and the behavior did not change. I did note that shifting the car
> > into and out of park and neutral while the switch is in the start
> position
> > caused dimming of all the dash lights, implying a short in the system
and
> > also implying that the neutral safety switch is operating correctly.
>
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Time for a new starter, methinks...
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 8:30 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Shorting the pins at the terminal block does nothing. I jumped the car
> also, and the behavior did not change. I did note that shifting the car
> into and out of park and neutral while the switch is in the start position
> caused dimming of all the dash lights, implying a short in the system and
> also implying that the neutral safety switch is operating correctly.
>
> On Sun, Dec 2, 2018, 4:57 AM M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
>
> > Sounds legit to me.  If memory serves, high-draw items like starters tend
> > to have fusible links rather than fuses.   It sounds as though you're
> > getting power to the starter.  I'm gonna go along with the bad
> starter/bad
> > connection theory.   Have you tried to put 12VDC to the starter itself
> yet?
> >
> > -MMM-
> >
> > On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 12:22 AM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Yes I checked them and wiggled them all.
> > >
> > > But here's the thing: there is no fuse labeled "starter". I am not
> sure,
> > > given that all dash lights are on when key is turned on, that there is
> > any
> > > fuse failure that could produce this symptom. The key energizes a relay
> > > somewhere when turned to start position. If the switch has any power at
> > > all, I assume the fuse is good, whatever it is called.
> > >
> > > Is this correct?
> > >
> > > K
> > >
> > > On Sat, Dec 1, 2018, 8:58 PM M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes <
> > > mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
> > >
> > > > Have you CHECKED all the FUSES?
> > > >
> > > > -M. Mitchell Marshall
> > > > ___
> > > > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > > >
> > > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> > > >
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> > > >
> > > >
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Scott Ritchey via Mercedes]

I've experienced starters with "dead spots" or stuck brushes.  Try whacking it 
a couple times with a hammer.

> -Original Message-
> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Karl
> Wittnebel via Mercedes
> Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2018 8:30 PM
> To: mercedes@okiebenz com 
> Cc: Karl Wittnebel 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td
> 
> Shorting the pins at the terminal block does nothing. I jumped the car also, 
> and
> the behavior did not change. I did note that shifting the car into and out of
> park and neutral while the switch is in the start position caused dimming of 
> all
> the dash lights, implying a short in the system and also implying that the
> neutral safety switch is operating correctly.
> 
> 



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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

If this is a diesel did you rule out the glow plug relay and fuse?

On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 9:03 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> you need to jump the Big terminal (B+) at the solenoid to the little
> terminal on the side of the solenoid.   If that does nothing, then jump
> the big B+ one to the bottom one, direct to the windings.   If the first
> does not start the car, and the starter turns (but won't engage) with
> the latter, the solenoid is bad, but the starter may still need to be
> replaced.   My bet is still that the starter is bad.
>
> > Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes 
> > December 2, 2018 at 7:30 PM
> > Shorting the pins at the terminal block does nothing. I jumped the car
> > also, and the behavior did not change. I did note that shifting the car
> > into and out of park and neutral while the switch is in the start
> position
> > caused dimming of all the dash lights, implying a short in the system and
> > also implying that the neutral safety switch is operating correctly.
>
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

you need to jump the Big terminal (B+) at the solenoid to the little 
terminal on the side of the solenoid.   If that does nothing, then jump 
the big B+ one to the bottom one, direct to the windings.   If the first 
does not start the car, and the starter turns (but won't engage) with 
the latter, the solenoid is bad, but the starter may still need to be 
replaced.   My bet is still that the starter is bad.



Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes 
December 2, 2018 at 7:30 PM
Shorting the pins at the terminal block does nothing. I jumped the car
also, and the behavior did not change. I did note that shifting the car
into and out of park and neutral while the switch is in the start position
caused dimming of all the dash lights, implying a short in the system and
also implying that the neutral safety switch is operating correctly.


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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

Good thought but jumping did not help
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

Shorting the pins at the terminal block does nothing. I jumped the car
also, and the behavior did not change. I did note that shifting the car
into and out of park and neutral while the switch is in the start position
caused dimming of all the dash lights, implying a short in the system and
also implying that the neutral safety switch is operating correctly.

On Sun, Dec 2, 2018, 4:57 AM M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

> Sounds legit to me.  If memory serves, high-draw items like starters tend
> to have fusible links rather than fuses.   It sounds as though you're
> getting power to the starter.  I'm gonna go along with the bad starter/bad
> connection theory.   Have you tried to put 12VDC to the starter itself yet?
>
> -MMM-
>
> On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 12:22 AM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > Yes I checked them and wiggled them all.
> >
> > But here's the thing: there is no fuse labeled "starter". I am not sure,
> > given that all dash lights are on when key is turned on, that there is
> any
> > fuse failure that could produce this symptom. The key energizes a relay
> > somewhere when turned to start position. If the switch has any power at
> > all, I assume the fuse is good, whatever it is called.
> >
> > Is this correct?
> >
> > K
> >
> > On Sat, Dec 1, 2018, 8:58 PM M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
> >
> > > Have you CHECKED all the FUSES?
> > >
> > > -M. Mitchell Marshall
> > > ___
> > > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > >
> > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> > >
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> > >
> > >
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes]

On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 12:22 PM Kevin Kraly via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> M. Mitchell Marshall! Good one’
>

^.^  Thankee!  I figured a tribute to the late Doktor Booth was in order.

-MMM-
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Have you tried to jump start?

On Dec 2, 2018 10:48 AM, "Max Dillon via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> Yes, might simply be a really low battery, worth checking.
> --
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '87 300TD
> '95 E300
>
> On December 2, 2018 10:35:45 AM EST, tyee165 via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >Did you ever check the battery voltage? Given that the car sat for a
> >bit while you worked on it and then  it sounds like you did not run it
> >for long after you started it, maybe the battery is down and needs to
> >be charged.
> >
> >
>
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Kevin Kraly via Mercedes]

M. Mitchell Marshall! Good one’
Kevin in Hillsboro, OR

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 2, 2018, at 7:46 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Yes, might simply be a really low battery, worth checking.
> -- 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '87 300TD
> '95 E300
> 
>> On December 2, 2018 10:35:45 AM EST, tyee165 via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> Did you ever check the battery voltage? Given that the car sat for a
>> bit while you worked on it and then  it sounds like you did not run it
>> for long after you started it, maybe the battery is down and needs to
>> be charged.
>> 
>> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

Yes, might simply be a really low battery, worth checking.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On December 2, 2018 10:35:45 AM EST, tyee165 via Mercedes 
 wrote:
>Did you ever check the battery voltage? Given that the car sat for a
>bit while you worked on it and then  it sounds like you did not run it
>for long after you started it, maybe the battery is down and needs to
>be charged.
>
>

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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

No fuse in starter circuit that I'm aware of.  IIRC, power goes from battery to 
key switch, to neutral safety switch, to solenoid (for the start signal).  
There may be another switch or relay in there, little voice is telling me that 
I've forgotten something, but I'm sure there is no fuse.

Battery power high current connection (thick cable) goes directly from battery 
to starter.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On December 2, 2018 1:21:15 AM EST, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes 
 wrote:
>Yes I checked them and wiggled them all.
>
>But here's the thing: there is no fuse labeled "starter". I am not
>sure,
>given that all dash lights are on when key is turned on, that there is
>any
>fuse failure that could produce this symptom. The key energizes a relay
>somewhere when turned to start position. If the switch has any power at
>all, I assume the fuse is good, whatever it is called.
>
>Is this correct?
>
>K
>

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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[tyee165 via Mercedes]

Did you ever check the battery voltage? Given that the car sat for a bit while 
you worked on it and then  it sounds like you did not run it for long after you 
started it, maybe the battery is down and needs to be charged.


Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
 Original message From: Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes 
 Date: 2018-12-01  7:28 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: 
"mercedes@okiebenz com"  Cc: Karl Wittnebel 
 Subject: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td 
Ok so I finally get the new vacuum booster line and brake light switch (fyi
daytona MB is crushing on prices for OE) anyway and the r129 dual diaphragm
booster and 500e fronts and sl600 rear calipers on the knuckles right side
up and re bled with the pressure thingy today. Good news is it stops with
very little pedal effort now. Almost too little, but I will get used to it.

Anyway I drive down the steep driveway, and there is all kinds of water
running out of drains from the storm this week, because the car hasnt
moved. Anyway, park it across the street to check the mail, which isnt
there, get back in and no crank. Fiddle with the selector lever, no dice. I
guess the next step is to jump the starter at the terminal block and see if
it has any life. Then the neutral safety switch. Is there anything I am
missing? I wiggled all the fuses. The lights all come on the panel and dim
slightly when I turn it to start position, so I think the switch is ok, and
obviously it has juice from the batry. I was under there messing around, so
could have knocked something loose, but it started fine a few times in the
driveway before it didnt.

Thoughts?

Thanks
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Peter Frederick via Mercedes]

Those starters often fail by locking up completely when energized, at least 
that's what has happened to all of mine from that era.

If you hear the solenoid engage when you turn the key, the starter motor will 
need to be replaced.  Not a terrible job, just get a long breaker bar to get 
the bolts loose.
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes]

Sounds legit to me.  If memory serves, high-draw items like starters tend
to have fusible links rather than fuses.   It sounds as though you're
getting power to the starter.  I'm gonna go along with the bad starter/bad
connection theory.   Have you tried to put 12VDC to the starter itself yet?

-MMM-

On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 12:22 AM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Yes I checked them and wiggled them all.
>
> But here's the thing: there is no fuse labeled "starter". I am not sure,
> given that all dash lights are on when key is turned on, that there is any
> fuse failure that could produce this symptom. The key energizes a relay
> somewhere when turned to start position. If the switch has any power at
> all, I assume the fuse is good, whatever it is called.
>
> Is this correct?
>
> K
>
> On Sat, Dec 1, 2018, 8:58 PM M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
>
> > Have you CHECKED all the FUSES?
> >
> > -M. Mitchell Marshall
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
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> >
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>
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>
>
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

Yes I checked them and wiggled them all.

But here's the thing: there is no fuse labeled "starter". I am not sure,
given that all dash lights are on when key is turned on, that there is any
fuse failure that could produce this symptom. The key energizes a relay
somewhere when turned to start position. If the switch has any power at
all, I assume the fuse is good, whatever it is called.

Is this correct?

K

On Sat, Dec 1, 2018, 8:58 PM M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

> Have you CHECKED all the FUSES?
>
> -M. Mitchell Marshall
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes]

Have you CHECKED all the FUSES?

-M. Mitchell Marshall
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

yes.  The fact that the lights dim with the starter switch is on 
indicates a bad starter.  I just changed the starter on our 300D (124) 
as PM, and it was due, as the new starter works way better.


The connecter is a possibility as is the small wire on the starter.   If 
you recall my post, the terminal had broken on the solenoid, then welded 
itself back together arcing.  When I went to hook the terminal on the 
rebuilt starter, the ring fell off the terminal.



For your perusal, here is the prior post., subject: Today's fun

The 300D had a fit on Mon. where it would not start.  no click, nothing, 
but plenty of battery.   It also did not click with the auxiliary 
starter button.  After it cooled for 2 hours, it magically started.   
The starters on these have a tendency to just quit without warning, 
unlike older cars.  This starter was a $25 junkyard special several 
years ago, so I figured to be safe, I should get a starter rebuilt and 
ready.  It was ready yesterday afternoon.  ($140)  Ouch, almost as much 
as a bosch reman., but it was here!
So, I took the wires off, took out the old starter, installed the new 
one, hooked up the battery cable.  When I put the screw in the eye of 
the small wire, I thought the wire came off the screw, but when I tried 
to put the eye back on the screw, there was no eye on the wire.  The eye 
was on the screw.   Evidently, the eye had vibrated enough in 31 years 
and 320,000 miles that it has broken off the collar.   So, I cut off the 
old collar, stripped the wire and put on a new eye.


I'm glad I decided to go ahead and change the working starter out for 
the rebuilt.  otherwise, I'd have been chasing an intermittent for who 
knows how long.  It appears that the eye welded itself back to the 
collar until I went to put the wire back on the new starter.  I've had 
the wire break at the terminal before at 25+ years, but I don't remember 
the eye breaking off the factory terminal.   I guess they just don't 
build em like they used to!Gotta love the simple fixes!


Someday, I will check brushes and bearings in the starter I took out, 
fix what is needed and put it on the shelf.



Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
December 1, 2018 at 8:25 PM
I've had starters die like that, go from working just fine for one start
and then totally dead the next attempted start. However, if the terminal
connection is loose, it might have been on just enough to work once, but
driving the car caused it to come loose so now there is not enough 
contact.

-
Max
Charleston SC


On Sat, Dec 1, 2018 at 9:09 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

I've had starters die like that, go from working just fine for one start
and then totally dead the next attempted start.  However, if the terminal
connection is loose, it might have been on just enough to work once, but
driving the car caused it to come loose so now there is not enough contact.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Sat, Dec 1, 2018 at 9:09 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I took that terminal block loose changing the booster, so I will have to be
> sure I did not cause a short or a loose connection when I put it back. It
> is close to the new (thicker) booster, but does not touch it.
>
> On Sat, Dec 1, 2018, 5:37 PM Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
>
> > Dead starter?  If the lights are dimming when the key is turned to the
> > start position, sounds like the solenoid is getting power, so either the
> > solenoid or the starter motor may be the culprit.
> >
> > Make sure battery voltage is 12.5 volts or more with no load,  and then
> > measure the battery voltage when you energize pre-glow and then crank, it
> > should drop a bit depending on your battery health, maybe drop to 11.5 or
> > 11.0 volts or so.  If it drops below 11, your battery is suspect and you
> > can take it to flaps for a load test.
> >
> > There is a three-connection point near the brake booster, middle wire is
> > the signal to the solenoid, so if you jumper 12v to that terminal the
> > solenoid should engage and the starter crank the motor over (make sure
> > transmission in park).
> > -
> > Max
> > Charleston SC
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Dec 1, 2018 at 8:29 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Ok so I finally get the new vacuum booster line and brake light switch
> > (fyi
> > > daytona MB is crushing on prices for OE) anyway and the r129 dual
> > diaphragm
> > > booster and 500e fronts and sl600 rear calipers on the knuckles right
> > side
> > > up and re bled with the pressure thingy today. Good news is it stops
> with
> > > very little pedal effort now. Almost too little, but I will get used to
> > it.
> > >
> > > Anyway I drive down the steep driveway, and there is all kinds of water
> > > running out of drains from the storm this week, because the car hasnt
> > > moved. Anyway, park it across the street to check the mail, which isnt
> > > there, get back in and no crank. Fiddle with the selector lever, no
> > dice. I
> > > guess the next step is to jump the starter at the terminal block and
> see
> > if
> > > it has any life. Then the neutral safety switch. Is there anything I am
> > > missing? I wiggled all the fuses. The lights all come on the panel and
> > dim
> > > slightly when I turn it to start position, so I think the switch is ok,
> > and
> > > obviously it has juice from the batry. I was under there messing
> around,
> > so
> > > could have knocked something loose, but it started fine a few times in
> > the
> > > driveway before it didnt.
> > >
> > > Thoughts?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > ___
> > > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > >
> > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> > >
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> > >
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> >
> >
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

I took that terminal block loose changing the booster, so I will have to be
sure I did not cause a short or a loose connection when I put it back. It
is close to the new (thicker) booster, but does not touch it.

On Sat, Dec 1, 2018, 5:37 PM Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

> Dead starter?  If the lights are dimming when the key is turned to the
> start position, sounds like the solenoid is getting power, so either the
> solenoid or the starter motor may be the culprit.
>
> Make sure battery voltage is 12.5 volts or more with no load,  and then
> measure the battery voltage when you energize pre-glow and then crank, it
> should drop a bit depending on your battery health, maybe drop to 11.5 or
> 11.0 volts or so.  If it drops below 11, your battery is suspect and you
> can take it to flaps for a load test.
>
> There is a three-connection point near the brake booster, middle wire is
> the signal to the solenoid, so if you jumper 12v to that terminal the
> solenoid should engage and the starter crank the motor over (make sure
> transmission in park).
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 1, 2018 at 8:29 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > Ok so I finally get the new vacuum booster line and brake light switch
> (fyi
> > daytona MB is crushing on prices for OE) anyway and the r129 dual
> diaphragm
> > booster and 500e fronts and sl600 rear calipers on the knuckles right
> side
> > up and re bled with the pressure thingy today. Good news is it stops with
> > very little pedal effort now. Almost too little, but I will get used to
> it.
> >
> > Anyway I drive down the steep driveway, and there is all kinds of water
> > running out of drains from the storm this week, because the car hasnt
> > moved. Anyway, park it across the street to check the mail, which isnt
> > there, get back in and no crank. Fiddle with the selector lever, no
> dice. I
> > guess the next step is to jump the starter at the terminal block and see
> if
> > it has any life. Then the neutral safety switch. Is there anything I am
> > missing? I wiggled all the fuses. The lights all come on the panel and
> dim
> > slightly when I turn it to start position, so I think the switch is ok,
> and
> > obviously it has juice from the batry. I was under there messing around,
> so
> > could have knocked something loose, but it started fine a few times in
> the
> > driveway before it didnt.
> >
> > Thoughts?
> >
> > Thanks
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
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>
>
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Re: [MBZ] no cranky 87 td

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Dead starter?  If the lights are dimming when the key is turned to the
start position, sounds like the solenoid is getting power, so either the
solenoid or the starter motor may be the culprit.

Make sure battery voltage is 12.5 volts or more with no load,  and then
measure the battery voltage when you energize pre-glow and then crank, it
should drop a bit depending on your battery health, maybe drop to 11.5 or
11.0 volts or so.  If it drops below 11, your battery is suspect and you
can take it to flaps for a load test.

There is a three-connection point near the brake booster, middle wire is
the signal to the solenoid, so if you jumper 12v to that terminal the
solenoid should engage and the starter crank the motor over (make sure
transmission in park).
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Sat, Dec 1, 2018 at 8:29 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Ok so I finally get the new vacuum booster line and brake light switch (fyi
> daytona MB is crushing on prices for OE) anyway and the r129 dual diaphragm
> booster and 500e fronts and sl600 rear calipers on the knuckles right side
> up and re bled with the pressure thingy today. Good news is it stops with
> very little pedal effort now. Almost too little, but I will get used to it.
>
> Anyway I drive down the steep driveway, and there is all kinds of water
> running out of drains from the storm this week, because the car hasnt
> moved. Anyway, park it across the street to check the mail, which isnt
> there, get back in and no crank. Fiddle with the selector lever, no dice. I
> guess the next step is to jump the starter at the terminal block and see if
> it has any life. Then the neutral safety switch. Is there anything I am
> missing? I wiggled all the fuses. The lights all come on the panel and dim
> slightly when I turn it to start position, so I think the switch is ok, and
> obviously it has juice from the batry. I was under there messing around, so
> could have knocked something loose, but it started fine a few times in the
> driveway before it didnt.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Thanks
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
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