I peeked at some ILC1-1/7 listed on Ebay, and there was a photo with a tape
measure showing "14" .
My heart skipped a few beats, then I realized it was *centimeters*, not
inches. Still, these things are gigantic.
They would make an interesting "see-thru" clock.
--
You received this message bec
You got the fake DC-DC power supply, it’s the copy of my design, cannot provide
enough current for tubes, please check details here:
http://www.nixieclock.org/?p=1338
Here is our eBay shop:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283321583922
We also have
> With the clock fully wired and powered using the same 12V to +200V DC-DC
> boost converter, I have set the output voltage to 170V,
>
> however some of the tube’s digits do not fully illuminate, especially the 8
> and 9, similar to cathode positioning. What I have found is
>
> that no matte
Thanks, I kinda figured it wouldn’t be as simple as plug, and play. Will any
Schottky diode work? Or, should I use one with specific properties?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 25, 2019, at 22:53, David Forbes wrote:
>
> You would want to put a Schottky diode in series with the cell to prevent t
You would want to put a Schottky diode in series with the cell to prevent
the clock from trying to charge it.
On Fri, Jan 25, 2019, 8:21 PM Thomas Kummer I have a PV Electronics Elite. I really like the clock, except for one
> problem. When I take it to my Job in the oilfield, I have to reset it.
Hello people,
I have recently discovered the world of Nixie tubes.
My first clock was based around 6 x IN-12 and 2 x IN-15A tubes, controlled
via 8 x K155id binary converters, using an Arduino Mega 2560.
Powered by a 12v to +200V DC-DC Boost Converter. All of the above worked
fine with
I have a PV Electronics Elite. I really like the clock, except for one problem.
When I take it to my Job in the oilfield, I have to reset it. Can I hook up a
3V battery in place of the .22F supercap? Would it be as simple as just
directly swapping it? Or, would more modifications be required?
On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 3:27:25 PM UTC-8, Tomasz Kowalczyk wrote:
>
> > I think that the highly positive grid voltage allows to make electron
> "beam" hit all anode areas more evenly. If I recall correctly, in some
> older VFDs you could see that anodes glow slightly brighter >under fila
There are indeed some strange 'counterfeits' around. Maybe they were a
deliberate attempt to confuse reverse engineering of some product, but
never used? or it could have been a simple mistake.
I have a few thousand MPSA92 which have been remarked from MPSA42,
with the 4 and 9 superimposed. They w
Yes, this high grid current is normal.
Standard vacuum tubes, which work as amplifiers, not displays, have
different construction in which grid is very close to the cathode, and
anode is also relatively close to the grid. This allows the tube to operate
with negative grid voltages, at which gri
> I just received some ILC1-1/8 VFD's (large-ish 7 segment Soviet era, approx
> 100mm tall) and did some basic testing.
>
> I was very surprised to see a large current on the grid, on the order of
> 30-40mA, whereas the segment current was around 5mA when glowing nicely.
> I havn't dabbled wi
Hi Bill,
Indeed, it seems bonkers. I assume it's because someone has a huge stash
of open collector output 74 series shift registers, and either thinks
they're the same, or that most people won't notice the difference.
I bought two batches of 500 of them, from two different chinese suppliers,
an
That is really weird. Please understand I am not questioning what you are
saying, but perhaps there is another explanation. The 74LS596 (I have never
seen an HC version) is indeed an open collector chip similar to the 74HC595,
which is a tri-state device. On the 74HC595 the inv G (pin 13) should
I just received some ILC1-1/8 VFD's (large-ish 7 segment Soviet era, approx
100mm tall) and did some basic testing.
I was very surprised to see a large current on the grid, on the order of
30-40mA, whereas the segment current was around 5mA when glowing nicely.
I havn't dabbled with vacuum tubes
It seems even things barely worth faking are being faked also.
I have a bag of 500 74HC595 shift registers, that are actually rebadged
74HC596s (as in, open collector, SINK, not SOURCE-capable).
Which are useless for my application :-(
On Fri, 25 Jan 2019 at 20:58, Bill van Dijk wrote:
> There
There can be a few different reasons for the i2c buss to hang, and may not be
the fault of the DS3231. For instance, if there is a software interrupt during
an i2c read or write, that can do it. Are you using a mpu based hardware i2c
engine, or do you bit-bang the buss?
If the DS3231 is batt
Make sure you test the DCDC converter under full-load. Every one of these
I've ever designed & built always worked beautifully under low load, and as
the load increases all sorts of gremlins start creeping out of the jungle.
Some of them are easy to spot, like overheating. Others require you to
I have written previously about a similar incident with ATmega328p chips
ordered from Aliexpress. They did not arrived in a reel, but just packed in
a small plastic bag. Two of them worked fine, but Atmel Studio was unable
to even read the ID of the third one, thus rendering it unprogrammable an
@gregebert Thank you for the anode current limit suggestion. However, I
have already produced the board so I might try it out in some future
prototype. I have, however, scaled the current in each cathode down so that
the sum of them all (when all segments light up) will not exceed the
maximum c
That's brilliant, thank you.
I have put it on order, with an intent to translate it, and hopefully share
some of its' nuggets for other people who might be trying to follow in my
footsteps :-)
On the positive side, I've managed to work out how to adjust my miniature
nixie DC-DC converter board to
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