You should be happy: now you don't have to install a blue LED underneath it to
light it up: you can sell them for a premium on eBay! ;-)
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It may be simpler to delay it with a couple of NOT gates (e.g. you use a 7400
and use 2 NANDs in series with their inputs tied together for an approx. 20ns
delay). This clock seems quite poorly designed though if it uses such low
tolerances, maybe it's better to switch to something better and
Nice to have the scope shots. Previously, you mentioned "The clock signal is
nice and clean, but the data signal has a bizarre triangle wave on it.": did
you not reproduce this particular issue?
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Alternatively, you can also use discrete BJT's or MOSFET's to drive your
cathodes. If you have a multiplexed design (so you would e.g. only need them
for driving 2 nixies at a time in a 6 digit clock) it's quite doable and
probably cheaper/simpler/cleaner than using that HV chip + level
I'm not sure I'd recommend the pvelectronics clocks. I know they seem to be
quite popular, but they appear to be using the HV5622 out of spec. It's strange
to see so many nixie clock designs use these chips out of spec, when there are
many other options to do this correctly.
Datasheet:
"In my 50 years or so of worinkg on electronic equipment, I have
quite often seen Vcc and Gnd, and others very often omitted from
schematic diagrams, to help eliminate clutter. Quite often a separate
page or diagram will then be used to show various, power and ground
distributions. This is
"It's not even a schematic error."
I disagree:
- you want your schematic to be consistent, in this case it's clearly not as
most parts display their ground/power pins connected, except the MAX232A.
- you want it to be unambiguous: obviously, it's not.
- if you work with multiple voltage levels
You can have a look at the schematic of the NixiSat (which was posted here
earlier - not the NixiChron, but I assume it's similar:
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v=forums=MDEwMDEwODgzMDkzNzgxMTU3NTQBMDI2MDI2MDkxODMwNDU5NDc0NjYBN3poTlVQTHJxcG9KATAuMQEBdjI=0)
Interestingly, at least in that
Indeed, it may be worth trying to run the clock from lower voltages, e.g. 9V or
7V instead of 12V, so the VDD-2V Vih is not so far off the mark. I think the
cascading issue mentioned above shouldn't be a problem at the likely low clock
frequency. But he mentioned a triangle wave on the data
By the way, someone posted a Nixisat schematic to this group before, which may
well be similar to the NixiChron. Maybe it can help you.
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Hmm, sounds like that capacitor may have reached the end of its life.
Interesting about the triangle wave: can you post some scope shots?
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Quincy, were you able to fix your clock? It may be helpful to make a little
video and post it on YouTube so that we get a better idea of how it's failing.
Also, try it with and without the GPS plugged in, and try reseating the MCU as
suggested. Also take some close up pictures of the circuit
11, 2015 at 4:16:42 PM UTC+2, Kiran Otter wrote:
Niek, I don't see any problem with Q4, and it's been in there for 7+
years. If the recommendation is to replace it, I can do that.. the bummer
is every time I need a cap or some other part, it costs a dollar plus
another $6 to ship
Nice that the SMPS made it run cooler. I didn't expect it to fix the
ghosting issue - that's probably a timing issue in the software, as I
explained earlier. Would have been very strange if that had been related to
the 7805.
As for the hot mosfet: can you check Q4? It's the small transistor
Glad removing the heatsink seemed to solved the issue.
It's interesting it has this behavior next to the blanked out tube: does it
have the same behavior when using 24 hour mode? (if it has such a mode, or
any other mode where it doesn't blank out any tubes). Blanking out a single
tube (of a
sources, surely one of them will be good (and most
probably all will be good). Try disabling that leading 0 blanking in the
future - it's not very good to do that.
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 11:23:35 PM UTC+1, Kiran Otter wrote:
Niek,
Yes, it's showing the seconds in the hour digit
Do you have a scope? Is the output of the 7805 still a clean 5V? How about
the output of the HV regulator? Can you measure the current going into the
clock? (with your multimeter)
I'd be a bit suprised if the cause is the driver chips, because after
replacing them it didn't seem to improve a
You can of course get a new kit, but it will be much more fun and give you
a better sense of accomplishment if you fix this one - and since I don't
see anything inherently wrong with the design, you should be able to fix it
fairly easily. Try lowering that input voltage to 9V, and could you
,
since it's not in the original design, and i'm wondering if your paste is
electrically conductive at all (remember, the metal tab of the 7805 is
connected to ground, and the one for the IRF640 is connected to the drain).
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:27:58 PM UTC+1, Niek wrote:
You can
Perhaps you can post the code that does the multiplexing - it may shed some
light on this issue. By the way, there's nothing wrong with multiplexing -
and it's not that hard to get it right, just follow a few simple rules like
the dead time, and you also haven't mentioned the frequency yet,
Does the issue happen more to certain tubes/digits than to others? If so,
it could have something to do with the layout of the traces: i'd be
especially worried about long runs of high voltage lines parallel to the
lines switching the transistors. E.g., in your PCB, the trace at the very
Interesting. Can you take some pictures of the problem? And maybe provide
the schematic? (at least of the part driving the nixies).
On Monday, February 23, 2015 at 1:15:08 PM UTC+1, joenixie wrote:
Hi Yall,
Thanks for the inputs, Sadly direct drive is not an option, I just don't
have the
Looks great! So you Dalibor produced a new type of nixie which has all
the 4 digits included in a single glass enclosure? That's quite an
achievement, really impressive! Definitely a Kickstarter-worthy project :)
And of course there are some other nixie watches out there, and while cool,
they
Can you post a schematic of the driving part of the nixies? So, including
the voltage used, current limiting resistors, etc. My first thought would
be that you need to up your resistors to higher values.
On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 6:00:11 AM UTC+1, Jan Arturo Felsner wrote:
Hello guys,
Hello,
Do you have the schematics for this clock? This may show whether or not
some effort was put into designing an efficient (cool) power supply.
On Tuesday, September 30, 2014 4:46:41 AM UTC+2, Dman777 wrote:
I just got this 6 digit ZM5660 clock that I love. The middle part gets
quite
Remember also (from the earlier discussion) that the anode drivers are
completely out of spec on this design (which may have caused the
flickering). So, you can expect anything with a badly designed clock. I
would just not bother with this clock anymore, as its design seems to have
too many
I never read any evidence in datasheets or elsewhere that tells me
multiplexed tubes last shorter than directly driven tubes, despite the
somewhat higher current required for similar brightness. Is this really the
case? What do you base this on? In LED's, this generally evens out, and the
From looking at the schematics you provided in an earlier post about the
flickering issue, it's probably caused by the SMPS (switched mode power
supply) that provides the high voltage (around 175V) to the nixies. It's
using a 34063, which can't drive a mosfet very well by itself: ideally you
Could you post the schematics of your clock? That way, it'll be a lot
easier to see if there's something wrong with the design.
On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 4:38:39 AM UTC+2, StoopKid wrote:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-dh0pc4jYgvQ/U-BDeKATYII/DGo/u_-513wHCi0/s1600/unnamed.jpg
I
with the order and slight delays in which
the anode's and cathodes are enabled.
If I were you, i'd either send the clock back and ask money back, or
consider it an interesting learning project and try some of the above
suggestions.
Good luck!
Niek
On Monday, July 28, 2014 12:47:31 AM UTC+2
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