its connections.
>> *From:* Matzenegger
>> *Sent:* Sunday, July 29, 2012 3:38 PM
>> *To:* neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
>> *Cc:* srpen...@gmail.com
>> *Subject:* [neonixie-l] Re: 555 power supply not working
>>
>> Hi all!
>> I'm new here to
ay, July 29, 2012 3:38 PM
> *To:* neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
> *Cc:* srpen...@gmail.com
> *Subject:* [neonixie-l] Re: 555 power supply not working
>
> Hi all!
> I'm new here to, didn't know if it was best to create a new thread or
> relive an old one.
> I&#x
bject: [neonixie-l] Re: 555 power supply not working
Hi all!
I'm new here to, didn't know if it was best to create a new
thread or
relive an old one.
I'm trying to build this same 555 power supply from the
e-l@googlegroups.com
Cc: srpen...@gmail.com
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: 555 power supply not working
Hi all!
I'm new here to, didn't know if it was best to create a new thread or relive an
old one.
I'm trying to build this same 555 power supply from the ledsales schematic
http://w
Wot 'bout the coil? Is it suitable for the application?
Magnus
- Original Message -
From: Matzenegger
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Cc: srpen...@gmail.com
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2012 3:38 PM
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: 555 power supply not working
Hi all!
I&
Hi all!
I'm new here to, didn't know if it was best to create a new thread or
relive an old one.
I'm trying to build this same 555 power supply from the ledsales schematic
http://www.ledsales.com.au/kits/nixie_supply.pdf .
I don't have ready access to a scope (thinking about buying that cheap
D
That's great news. Thanks for coming back and letting us know.
On Dec 8, 4:32 pm, Imbanon wrote:
> Hey everyone!
> Got some news on the supply!
> I got some replacement parts (big thanks to Threeneurons here), and
> got it all working as intended. I replaced the diode and the FET, I
> left the c
Hey everyone!
Got some news on the supply!
I got some replacement parts (big thanks to Threeneurons here), and
got it all working as intended. I replaced the diode and the FET, I
left the cheap chinese coil on, and it all worked like a charm. So I
guess I'll be pointing my blame finger on the diode
Agreed on that one. I've got high hopes on the new components,
especially the diodes.
Can't wait to fix the supply. Haven't seen my nixies illuminating the
desk for a while now..
On Nov 26, 1:16 am, threeneurons wrote:
> > Measured 54.7mV. I guess that is fine.
>
> > I can't measure the voltage b
>
> Measured 54.7mV. I guess that is fine.
>
> I can't measure the voltage between the base and the emitter on Q2
> yet. Don't want to put in another FET and burn it like the other 3. I
> want it to be the last thing.
Making too big of a deal over the FET. Unless you're really cranking
out some cu
RS unfortunately stopped selling to private customers
eric
-Original Message-
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of John Rehwinkel
Sent: vrijdag 25 november 2011 22:13
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: 555
> And just one question. I checked the shipping prices from Mouser and
> Digi-key. They were both between $100 and $120 for a single item. Is
> it always like this (I am in Europe).
In Europe, you'd likely do better ordering from RS, Farnell, or even Jaycar or
Futurlec.
- John
>
> --
> You re
> > Try disconnecting the diode on your breadboard and applying a 12V DC
> > to the output node (where you expect 170V) and see what voltage you
> > measure at the base of Q2. Do this with the oscillator unpowered (no
> > 12V where it usually goes, just where it usually doesn't). You should
> > s
On 11-11-24 07:47 PM, Imbanon wrote:
And just one question. I checked the shipping prices from Mouser and
Digi-key. They were both between $100 and $120 for a single item. Is
it always like this (I am in Europe).
International shipping is always a grey area. You may do better with a
Europea
y, November 25, 2011 11:17 AM
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: 555 power supply not working
...clip
So I would say that the problem really is in the cheap chinese
components! And hopefully, I will get a replacement soon! :)
And just one question. I checked the shipping prices from Mouser and
Digi
> Just a quick question: your FETs, are they from the kit or did you
> order them separate. If they were ordered separately you may want to
> make sure you got the 400V ones and not the 20/40V...
Got them separate. No kit, just plane copying the schematic and the
board. Pretty sure it's the rig
Just a quick question: your FETs, are they from the kit or did you
order them separate. If they were ordered separately you may want to
make sure you got the 400V ones and not the 20/40V...
I'm guessing since you said you installed a heatsink that you got the
correct one in the TO-220AB package
Since the frequency of oscillation is governed by R2, R3, and C2 and
assuming you are using +/-10% tolerance resistors you may see a range
of 27.5-33.6kHz and that's not even accounting for the cap, C2. If
you're actually using 20% resistors your range can vary as low as
25.25kHz. So 21kHz is sti
If I had such money, I would buy a scope instead :D
Anyways, I just tried the frequency measuring function on the scope.
On the breadboard I got 32kHz which is great. On the other hand, I've
got only around 21kHz on the PCB which is 100% copied from the PDF
instructions.
--
You received this mes
$20 shipping for an order isn't too bad. Just buy $100 worth of stuff
instead of $5 worth of stuff. :D
-Adam
On 11/22/2011 2:37 PM, Imbanon wrote:
As for buying parts.. It is kind of a problem. Here where I live, I
cannot get all the parts I need, such as power inductors. I tried
ordering from
As for buying parts.. It is kind of a problem. Here where I live, I
cannot get all the parts I need, such as power inductors. I tried
ordering from Mouser, but gave up. The shipping prices are insane -
around $20 for a few parts worth $5.
Pics;
100mV V/div, 20uS T/div http://imageshack DOT us/phot
About shorting the circuit through the coil..
The power supply is an old PC supply, and it does have a short circuit
protection. At some point before the circuit failed, I noticed the
slower fan speed of the PC supply, which usually happens when it tries
to provide max amperage (15A at 12V). So may
Actually I'm new only with 555s and FETs, for which I know some
theory. The rest I've had a lot of practise in college and at home as
much as I can.
Anyways, I've got my hands on an oscilloscope! It's a friend's UNI-T
UT81B.
Did some testings, and came with a frequency of around 22kHz. But I'm
no
On Nov 22, 9:09 am, Imbanon wrote:
> Just a test reply. I've had problems, if this goes through, I will
> post my real reply.
>
> On Nov 19, 11:05 pm, Charles MacDonald wrote:
>
>
>
> > On 11-11-19 02:27 PM, chuck richards wrote:
>
> > > You'll be amazed how much easier things are when you
> >
Just a test reply. I've had problems, if this goes through, I will
post my real reply.
On Nov 19, 11:05 pm, Charles MacDonald wrote:
> On 11-11-19 02:27 PM, chuck richards wrote:
>
> > You'll be amazed how much easier things are when you
> > have an oscilloscope and can see stuff such as a 555 ou
On 11-11-19 02:27 PM, chuck richards wrote:
You'll be amazed how much easier things are when you
have an oscilloscope and can see stuff such as a 555 output.
Just looking at e-bay and they have several scopes under 100 bucks, (of
course reading fine print is important there.) I was only look
Also, you might consider using Mouser or Digikey for purchasing your
electrical components rather than ebay. I think that you will find that the
overall cost is lower and the quality level is higher. Ebay can be a great
place for finding rare components (like 74141 or nixie) but is not the
preferre
if the FET is smoking, it may be permanently on. Firstly, if you don't
mind me saying so, you are very new to all this and getting the
pinouts on FETs, ICs, transistors etc. wrong is easy to do.
Secondly, inductors are not measured in Watts - lots of other things,
yes, Watts, no. They will have a
Thanks for all the reply guys, much appreciated!
I know I need an oscillosope, It's just that I can't afford one as a
student. Saving for one for a while now..
I'm gonna test it tomorrow with a friend's sope and tell you how it
goes.
As for the components, they are not from a kit. I bought them
s
It is not very fancy, but it is dual trace.
You'll be amazed how much easier things are when you
have an oscilloscope and can see stuff such as a 555 output.
Chuck
>
>
> Original Message
>From: a...@jacobs.us
>To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: [neon
| On Nov 18, 3:31 pm, Imbanon wrote:
|
| I can't test the inductors, but they should be 100uH, 1watt max
| The diodes are UF4004. I suppose they should work..
|
| Can I use some other inductor, like 220uH?
Are using the parts provided by that kit, or are you just using the
schematic ? This is
I just noticed this bit: 'I left it powered, to see the diode smoking
next.'
If the mosfet was fried before then, the diode should just have been
sitting there with nothing to do. I assume it's not connected to the
rest of the clock?.
Power it up with a 15R series resistor, no mosfet and come bac
First of all I'd go back to using a 10-15 ohm resistor in series with
the 12v supply, it will still work and produce 180-200v out for test
purposes.
Don't bother putting another mosfet in just yet, you need to fid out
why it's being fried first.
Probably either the mark/space ratio is too long or
If you're going to make a hobby out of electronics, buy an oscilloscope.
It doesn't need to be fast. I use a dual-channel tektronix 100mhz scope
that was built in the 80's. There are even PC based storage scopes now.
-Adam
On 11/18/2011 3:31 PM, Imbanon wrote:
Also, how do I check if my 555 i
Just tested my FETs. I have 2 new in working order, the other 3 are as
good as a broken nixie. Now I'm afraid of using them, they are my last
x)
I can't test the inductors, but they should be 100uH, 1watt max. I
can't test them, nor do they have any markings on them. Just plain
black cover.
The di
Thanks for a fast reply!
As posted, http://www.ledsales.com.au/kits/nixie_supply.pdf
I used exactly the same parts, made exactly the same PCB. I really
don't know what's wrong with it. I test all my parts before using them
(except the 555s, FETs and inductors). All new.
Could it be the cheap-chine
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