I'm interested, too!
On Sunday, December 6, 2015 at 11:36:30 PM UTC-3, taylorjpt wrote:
>
> Ok, these will go out in order of the requests here startin tuesday 12/15
> (in maui till then).
>
> Jt
>
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I assume I am too late for one?
On Sunday, December 6, 2015 at 1:52:27 PM UTC-5, taylorjpt wrote:
>
> I sent the first fully integrated unit out a few weeks ago (can't remember
> to whom) so when I get some feedback I've got 10 more that I can finish up
> and send out to the first 10 emails,
Ok, these will go out in order of the requests here startin tuesday 12/15 (in
maui till then).
Jt
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I sent the first fully integrated unit out a few weeks ago (can't remember to
whom) so when I get some feedback I've got 10 more that I can finish up and
send out to the first 10 emails, starting NOW; 1 per person, 170V and 9V
output at 15W total.
Jt
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I'm interested!
Jonathan
On 12/6/2015 10:52 AM, taylorjpt wrote:
I sent the first fully integrated unit out a few weeks ago (can't remember to
whom) so when I get some feedback I've got 10 more that I can finish up and
send out to the first 10 emails, starting NOW; 1 per person, 170V and 9V
If that's still open, I'd be interested!
Thanks,
Jon.
On Sunday, December 6, 2015 at 6:52:27 PM UTC, taylorjpt wrote:
> I sent the first fully integrated unit out a few weeks ago (can't remember
> to whom) so when I get some feedback I've got 10 more that I can finish up
> and send out to
I am interested too!
Cheers, Marcin
On 07-Dec-15 05:52, taylorjpt wrote:
I sent the first fully integrated unit out a few weeks ago (can't remember to
whom) so when I get some feedback I've got 10 more that I can finish up and
send out to the first 10 emails, starting NOW; 1 per person, 170V
I am interested in one.
Thank You!
Greg
On 12/6/2015 11:52 AM, taylorjpt wrote:
I sent the first fully integrated unit out a few weeks ago (can't remember to
whom) so when I get some feedback I've got 10 more that I can finish up and
send out to the first 10 emails, starting NOW; 1 per
I would like to test one and give a review. Thanks
On Sun, Dec 6, 2015 at 4:14 PM, Jonathan Peakall
wrote:
> I'm interested!
>
> Jonathan
>
> On 12/6/2015 10:52 AM, taylorjpt wrote:
>
>> I sent the first fully integrated unit out a few weeks ago (can't
>> remember to
The probe was connected right at the new HV winding where it enters the
rectifier pair.
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Nice!
How would three or four STTH1R06 HV rectifiers work instead of two of the
800V or 1KV versions, just as well or would other problems arise?
/Martin
On Monday, 9 November 2015 00:48:52 UTC+1, taylorjpt wrote:
>
> Load testing is done and the transient performance is right on target
>
3 would work just fine at 600x3=1800V vs 800x2=1600. I will switch to the 1KV
parts since I already have PWBs.
The forward bias efficiency impact will be minimal for two vs three diodes as
the forard voltage at these low currents is so much smaller than the output
voltage.
It may even be a
Thank you for the answer!
I realise I need better probes for my scope to make the measurement you did
in the second scope picture, I only have standard probes that aren't rated
for those pulse voltages. Where did you hook up the probe to show that
trace?
/Martin
On Monday, 9 November 2015
Looks nice!
I'm still waiting for some spools of transformer tape, 3M 44 margin tape
and also 3M 56 polyester tape, I received a bunch of STTH1R06 diodes (the
through hole variant) so I can continue experimenting soon.
/Martin
On Friday, 6 November 2015 00:01:40 UTC+1, taylorjpt wrote:
>
>
Shorting the HV output to the 9V output will destroy the 9V output circuits:
Rectifier, reference, opto coupler etc as well as probably the user circuit
(Unless it is protected). This can't be avoided because of the energy stored
in the HV capacitor. This of course would be the same situation
Would a TranZorb or something similar on the LV output be able to cope with
a short from the HV output?
/Martin
On Sunday, 1 November 2015 12:09:13 UTC+1, taylorjpt wrote:
>
> Shorting the HV output to the 9V output will destroy the 9V output
> circuits: Rectifier, reference, opto coupler etc
Thanks for the answer!
Nice with the keyed contact.
/Martin
On Sunday, 1 November 2015 12:09:13 UTC+1, taylorjpt wrote:
>
> Shorting the HV output to the 9V output will destroy the 9V output
> circuits: Rectifier, reference, opto coupler etc as well as probably the
> user circuit (Unless it
: Sunday, November 01, 2015 6:09 AM
To: neonixie-l
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Super easy wall adapter mod: 9V plus 170V at 80mA
Shorting the HV output to the 9V output will destroy the 9V output circuits:
Rectifier, reference, opto coupler etc as well as probably the user circuit
(Unless it is protected
What happens if you short the HV output to the +9V output or to ground?
Will both outputs survive and how will it regulate during the short and
will it recover when the short is removed?
/Martin
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Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Super easy wall adapter mod: 9V plus 170V at 80mA
> How many people would be interested in an AC adapter that puts out 9V and
> 170V at 15W total? These could also be done in a 9V/300V output version.
While your existing supplies are very
> Although tempting, you may want to rethink that. Especially in a pre-amp the
> switching noise may be a problem.
Possibly not. Switching is at a higher frequency than a mains transformer,
which makes it easier to filter out. The usual issue I run into is radiated,
inductively coupled, and
Yes, I will keep rethinking it until I make it work! That's why I have 18
patents.
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They have been replaced by the newer tech TRG1509. The transformer is smaller
as it runs at a higher frequency but the new windings still fit due to the
adjusted turns ratio:
Model9V170V
TR1509 15T 250T
TRG1509 11T 184T
The TRG1509 adds a faraday shield to the outside of the
Thanks for pointing out the new model, unfortunately I can only find that
one with Mouser but Mouser says: "Due to government regulations, Mouser is
unable to sell this product in your country." , so I would still need your
help in getting hold of the type with European (Swedish) prongs.
I decided to buy a few Mean Well switching power supplies the other day as
I found them on sale for SEK 20kr each (some USD $2) to see if I could
modify them - I decided to buy them because they were cheap and I could use
them for other stuff if I couldn't rewind them.
I have successfully
I'm using two STTH1R06A in series. The switchers usually operate between 50 an
100kHz so you want to keep the reverse recovery time below 50nS. 25nS or
better at the low currents used is pretty easy to find. Just as important is
the reverse voltage rating as these need to support the
ixie-l <neonixie-l@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Super easy wall adapter mod: 9V plus 170V at 80mA
I was talking to Cincon and they might actually be able to either sell me
unwelded units for modification or even make a custom unit.
How many people would be interested in a
On 15-10-24 08:33 PM, croftj wrote:
You may want to make it configurable or be willing to sell them so that
we can make them what we want. I personally think a 90 - 100v version
would be sweet!
this sort of thing would fit a few niches. I am not sure if a little
switcher would handle the
These switchers can deliver the full output power from any combination of
output loads so long as the feedback circuits are correct. The primary side
controller would not know the difference since it stores the same energy in the
transformer during the on time regardless of how it is output
That's what I like about the Cincon TR(G)1509: The chose to not split the
primary. The currently avaliable G version still did not split the primary and
only added a Faraday sheild winding outside the magnetic circuit (Around the
outside of the core) which is easy to deal with.
Every other
Can you supply them with the Swedish (European 2 pin version) plug too?
I've tried to buy these since you started this thread but every reseller
has told me these are obsolete, like it says in the link from Mouser
here:
I would be interested in the 9V plus 179V at 80 ma
/DonS
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 24, 2015, at 6:25 AM, Dekatron42 wrote:
>
> Can you supply them with the Swedish (European 2 pin version) plug too?
>
> I've tried to buy these since you started this thread but
Currently I'm planning to terminate the 3 conductor cable with a 4 pin 1.25mm
JST connector: 9V/Gnd/NC/HV.
Jt
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> How many people would be interested in an AC adapter that puts out 9V and
> 170V at 15W total? These could also be done in a 9V/300V output version.
While your existing supplies are very handy, an all-in one would be a nice
solution too. How would it be terminated? Bare wires? TRS
I would probably be interested in both, thanks.
On Oct 23, 2015 7:42 PM, "taylorjpt" wrote:
> I was talking to Cincon and they might actually be able to either sell me
> unwelded units for modification or even make a custom unit.
>
> How many people would be interested in an
I was talking to Cincon and they might actually be able to either sell me
unwelded units for modification or even make a custom unit.
How many people would be interested in an AC adapter that puts out 9V and
170V at 15W total? These could also be done in a 9V/300V output version.
jt
--
Thanks, I should have spent more than 15 minutes on it! Here is an update,
hopefully I didn't add more errors than I fixed.
On Friday, October 16, 2015 at 4:06:55 PM UTC-7, A. Nonamus wrote:
>
> I think there's a small typo in Current Sink.pdf. At the end of the
> description for the circuit
Using the high voltage output as the regulated rail really works well! The
low voltage output only varies by about 15% for a high voltage load from 0
to 75mA (The 170V was rock solid). A few more benefits from this
implementation, and this mod in general:
1. No boost converter heating in
I think there's a small typo in Current Sink.pdf. At the end of the
description for the circuit on the left, "(Ir1 / 100) to satisfy Q1 hFE.",
shouldn't that be Ir2?
On Thursday, October 15, 2015 at 5:56:30 PM UTC-7, taylorjpt wrote:
>
> Current sinks are the easiest thing to build so long as
Most nixie controller circuits don't use that much power, most of the power is
used from the high voltage to light the displays. This modified wall adapter
technique actually delivers more usable power for a given adapter power because
the adapter efficieny is about 80% but if you take the low
Have you tried the same process of rewinding the transformer on any of the
small switching power supplies meant for driving LEDs, like the one shown
in the picture below? The market is currently swamped with these power
supplies and they are very cheap and modifying one or two in addition to
I'd say it's dependent on :
1. How much core-area is available for the additional winding
2. How easy it is to remove & reinstall the bobbin
3. The total power of the supply
If you're going to drive six IN-18's (the largest commonly-available nixie)
at 150VDC, that's about 5 watts. Any power
Are you willing to post a schematic of your current regulator driving
multiple tubes?
Thanks,
Steve
On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 3:34 PM, gregebert wrote:
> If you drive your tubes with a current-regulator, there's really no need
> to regulate the HV supply unless you are
Would anyone like one of these modified units to play with? I am getting 300
meters of good 3 conductor high voltage cable and plan to terminate it with a 4
pin 1.25mm JST connector. These will be the high voltage regulated versions.
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If you drive your tubes with a current-regulator, there's really no need to
regulate the HV supply unless you are trying to minimize the power. All you
need is to ensure the voltage is high enough for ionization.
I've used current-regulated cathode drivers on two of my clock designs. My
You are better off using the highest main output voltage you can tolerate
because of the relatively poor coupling of the low and high voltage
windings that results in an error in the un-regulated output (In this case
the 170V for instance): This error is manifested as a change in the high
No sawing. You shove a flat blade screwdriver between the output cable
strain relief and the cover and pry it up. This breaks the weld which you
then work around until the lid pops off. Very little plastic deformation
which then glues back together in a snap after the mod.
Once thing... you
I'm curious about adding windings to the transformer. Is this particular
transformer constructed so you can pop-out the bobbin, or does it have
those obnoxious interleaved E-cores that require you to split them all
apart, recoat, etc ? Or worse yet, thread each turn thru the core ?
--
You
John,
That's a clever hack!
Once thing... you had to saw apart the ultrasonic weld to get it apart,
right? Any good ideas on gluing it back together?
Also, this is not strictly still UL recognized since you modified it,
but it's close enough. Do you consider it to be as safe as the original
High frequency switchers use ferrite EE cores. You cant really see it from
the picture but the center posts are slightly shorter than the legs (About
0.015" total) and they are glued together with a drop of epoxy on the legs
to hold them together. The reason that they gap core is to lower the
All high frequency switching transformer cores are cast ferrite. No
laminations to deal with. They are called E cores because they look like
the letter E.
John said that after he removed the transformer from the board, he
separated the ferrite core halves by heating the glued joints with a
Here's a closeup of the re-sealed housing with the re-fitted strain relief.
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A more elegant method for adding the 3 conductor cable (Than that showed in
my photo) is to take the original strain relief and pull out the wire and
then drill it out. The new wire is then slipped into the strain relief.
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I did the same process on an HDP24-1AWA01FZ (12V @ 2A) of which I have a
couple hundred scrap units and am getting a clean 170V at 140mA. These
units are welded better so I should find an easier way to open them.
This is so much easier than the way I tried to do it years ago by trying to
> This is so much easier than the way I tried to do it years ago by trying to
> redesign the feedback circuits to make the switcher regulate the high voltage
> directly: I still needed a low voltage rail to generate the logic bias for
> the opto-coupled feedback circuits which meant adding a
Just for fun I modified a Cincon TR1509 wall adapter (9V at 1.4A rated) so
that now it puts out the original 9V plus a regulated 170V at 75mA (13W
total for both outputs). This requires re-winding the transformer and then
adding 2 diodes and a capacitor. The original secondary is 2 x 15T of
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