Re: [neonixie-l] Some vintage LED displays

[Jonathan Peakall]

No, these are seven segment and three digits to a package and the digits 
are bigger. I am at work for a 48 hour shift, I can take pics when I get 
home. Maybe we should take this off list, not being neon,  if you don't 
mind. My email is jpeakall AT madlabs DOT info.


Thanks, these are cool looking older LED displays. Bet they cost a 
pretty penny when they were made.


Jonathan

On 3/20/2017 7:50 PM, ZY wrote:
I haven't heard of these before. I know OSRAM uses a DLO code for 
their "high effiency red" color. Are they similar to the OSRAM DLO3416 
or DLO2416?


On Sunday, 19 March 2017 12:00:41 UTC-4, Jonathan wrote:

I just ran across some DLO-3130 displays. Do you have any
information on them?

Thanks!

Jonathan

On 3/11/2017 8:45 PM, ZY wrote:

Not sure if anyone would be interested as they're not neon, but
here's a portion of my LED display collection if anyone is into
that too:

https://imgur.com/a/AVp0y
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Re: [neonixie-l] Some vintage LED displays

[ZY]

I haven't heard of these before. I know OSRAM uses a DLO code for their 
"high effiency red" color. Are they similar to the OSRAM DLO3416 or DLO2416?

On Sunday, 19 March 2017 12:00:41 UTC-4, Jonathan wrote:
>
> I just ran across some DLO-3130 displays. Do you have any information on 
> them?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jonathan
>
> On 3/11/2017 8:45 PM, ZY wrote:
>
> Not sure if anyone would be interested as they're not neon, but here's a 
> portion of my LED display collection if anyone is into that too: 
>
> https://imgur.com/a/AVp0y
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Raspberry PI controlled Nixie display

['Ian Vine' via neonixie-l]

Not sure if we are getting wires crossed. The $102 price was for the Rpi hat to 
arduino shield adapter
IanV 

On Monday, 20 March 2017, 17:01, Tomasz Kowalczyk  
wrote:
 

 Yeah, but this is costly due to custom transformer used. I'd prefer a 12V 
supply and cheap NE555 converter or 5V + voltage doublers, as this is just 
cheaper than those 'ready to use' modules from ebay. On USB you are heavily 
limited with current anyway, so the clock has to be multiplexed or driven with 
<100% duty cycle. And I see no other point in using 5V power supply than making 
USB powered clock. USB 2.0 standard gives 500mA, which will be not enough to 
really use that converter fully :) Of course, cell phone chargers provide more 
current, but I think that if a clock is designed to have USB type supply, it 
should be possible to drive directly from a PC.The only reason I see for going 
with transformer converters is making a battery powered clock. But then I'd 
recommend using flash lamp cap charging transformers - generally very small and 
made exactly for converting battery voltages to high voltages.
W dniu poniedziałek, 20 marca 2017 16:42:49 UTC+1 użytkownik Alic napisał:
The eBay seller vfdclock also sells many different 5V to 170V or higher 
supplies (his eBay store is closed for a few days right now) 
:http://www.ebay.com/itm/ 131846790948?_trksid=p2060353. 
m1438.l2649=STRK% 3AMEBIDX%3AIThttp://www.ebay.com/sch/ 
vfdclock/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs= 1&_ipg=&_from=
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[neonixie-l] Re: Raspberry PI controlled Nixie display

[gregebert]

I chose the RasPi zero-W (the newest Pi, for $10 US) because it has 
built-in WiFi to do periodic time-sync, and it will allow me to update my 
clock software remotely, rather than taking the clock apart each time to 
update FPGA code.

My concern is the limited GPIO speed of the Pi, so I will have the Pi drive 
an FPGA, which in-turn drives the 7971 boards.
For now, the FPGA is strictly for remapping ASCII character data into 
segment info, then serializing. If I see other issues, such as "wobbly" 
data on the seconds, I may load-up more work on the FPGA.

Since I literally just taped-out my board last night, it's going to be 
several weeks before I have any idea how the Pi performs. Though I have 
another Pi for my 3D printer, I've never done any GPIO experimenting with 
it. 

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[neonixie-l] Re: Raspberry PI controlled Nixie display

[Tomasz Kowalczyk]

Yeah, but this is costly due to custom transformer used. I'd prefer a 12V 
supply and cheap NE555 converter or 5V + voltage doublers, as this is just 
cheaper than those 'ready to use' modules from ebay. On USB you are heavily 
limited with current anyway, so the clock has to be multiplexed or driven 
with <100% duty cycle. And I see no other point in using 5V power supply 
than making USB powered clock. USB 2.0 standard gives 500mA, which will be 
not enough to really use that converter fully :) Of course, cell phone 
chargers provide more current, but I think that if a clock is designed to 
have USB type supply, it should be possible to drive directly from a PC.
The only reason I see for going with transformer converters is making a 
battery powered clock. But then I'd recommend using flash lamp cap charging 
transformers - generally very small and made exactly for converting battery 
voltages to high voltages.

W dniu poniedziałek, 20 marca 2017 16:42:49 UTC+1 użytkownik Alic napisał:
>
> The eBay seller vfdclock also sells many different 5V to 170V or higher 
> supplies (his eBay store is closed for a few days right now) :
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/131846790948?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
>
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/vfdclock/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Raspberry PI controlled Nixie display

[Alic]

The eBay seller vfdclock also sells many different 5V to 170V or higher 
supplies (his eBay store is closed for a few days right now) :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131846790948?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/sch/vfdclock/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

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[neonixie-l] Re: Raspberry PI controlled Nixie display

[Alic]

Tomasz,
Tayloredge offers a HV power supply which gives up to 23mA @ 180V for a 5V 
input :
http://www.tayloredge.com

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[neonixie-l] Re: brightest nixie tube clock already assembled

[Tomasz Kowalczyk]

They are hella rare even here. I'm currently "contacting" with some man, 
who has 19 of them (all used), his price is laughably low, but I'm 
e-mailing with him for 2 months now, and he still doesn't have time to 
package all stuff and check how much the postage will be... so I'm afraid I 
will end up without them :(
To be honest about their rarity: I've lurked archives of polish version of 
Ebay, Allegro. excluding auctions, which didn't have a buyer, so they ended 
up being posted again, there were 13 auctions for tubes and one for clock 
made with LC-631s in last 8 years. Half of them were cheap and obviously 
purchased quickly (like 3.5$ for NOS), some offered tubes so used, they had 
a black coating in front of anodes, and some were 20$ per used tube - for a 
collector it would be still reasonable, but it is easier to buy a used 
Z566M for ~15$, which is prettier and more durable :)
W dniu niedziela, 19 marca 2017 23:25:48 UTC+1 użytkownik Alic napisał:
>
> Tomasz :
> If you have a source for LC-631, I think you would become quite popular 
> here ;-)

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[neonixie-l] Re: brightest nixie tube clock already assembled

[Tomasz Kowalczyk]

They are hella rare even here. I'm currently "contacting" with some man, 
who has 19 of them (all used), his price is laughably low, but I'm 
e-mailing with him for 2 months now, and he still doesn't have time to 
package all stuff and check how much the postage will be... so I'm afraid I 
will end up without them :(
To be honest about their rarity: excluding auctions, which didn't have a 
buyer, so they ended up being posted again, there were 13 auctions for 
tubes and one for clock made with LC-631s in last 8 years. Half of them 
were cheap and obviously purchased quickly (like 3.5$ for NOS), some 
offered tubes so used, they had a black coating in front of anodes, and 
some were 20$ per used tube - for a collector it would be still reasonable, 
but it is easier to buy a used Z566M for ~15$, which is prettier and more 
durable :)
W dniu niedziela, 19 marca 2017 23:25:48 UTC+1 użytkownik Alic napisał:
>
> Tomasz :
> If you have a source for LC-631, I think you would become quite popular 
> here ;-)


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[neonixie-l] Re: brightest nixie tube clock already assembled

[Tomasz Kowalczyk]

13 auctions on polish auction site called Allegro*

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[neonixie-l] Re: brightest nixie tube clock already assembled

[Tomasz Kowalczyk]

They are hella rare even here. I'm currently "contacting" with some man, 
who has 19 of them (all used), his price is laughably low, but I'm 
e-mailing with him for 2 months now, and he still doesn't have time to 
package all stuff and check how much the postage will be... so I'm afraid I 
will end up without them :(
To be honest about their rarity: excluding auctions, which didn't have a 
buyer, so they ended up being posted again, there were 13 auctions for 
tubes and one for clock made with LC-631s in last 8 years. Half of them 
were cheap and obviously purchased quickly (like 3.5$ for NOS), some 
offered tubes so used, they had a black coating in front of anodes, and 
some were 20$ per used tube - for a collector it would be still reasonable, 
but it is easier to buy a used Z566M for ~15$, which is prettier and more 
durable :)
W dniu niedziela, 19 marca 2017 23:25:48 UTC+1 użytkownik Alic napisał:
>
> Tomasz :
> If you have a source for LC-631, I think you would become quite popular 
> here ;-)

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[neonixie-l] Re: Raspberry PI controlled Nixie display

[Nick]

I wonder just wondering, if anyone has made a RPi hat that adapts to an 
Arduino header so that you could use an RPi with any (well, most) Arduino 
shield as there are 1000's of Arduino shields and only a few 100 (maybe) 
RPi hats...

Just a thought...

RATS! Someone else thought of it first - 
https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Arduino-Shields-Connection-Bridge/dp/B00F4S13FE
 

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Raspberry PI controlled Nixie display

[Tomasz Kowalczyk]

Unfortunately there aren't any original IN-14 sockets. But there are good 
news: you can easily buy IN-14 to 2,54mm adapter from OSH park. I don't 
know if there is any existing project like this, but for me it is really 
short work and I could make gerber files for such PCB*. OSH makes three 
PCBs in one order, so you'd have to buy exactly 2 sets. PCBs would be dirt 
cheap - probably about 5$ for all 6 PCBs. So if you won't find them in OSH 
park database, just e-mail me.
I don't have any experience with Raspberry PI, but looking at its price I 
suggest considering any microcontroller family - in a Nixie Clock project 
you need mostly I/Os and timekeeping accuracy. Unless you are going for IoT 
project, RPI is going to be expensive and most of its calculating power 
won't be ever used.
There are possibilites to extend I/Os by I2C bus, for example with MCP23008 
(http://embedded-lab.com/blog/expanding-the-number-of-io-lines-using-microchip-mcp23008/).
 
You could use four of them, three controlling two 74141 drivers and one 
controlling 6x optoisolators (TLP627)**. This way you would be able to do 
ALL nixie controlling via I2c, but it would require many chips, fortunately 
all avaible in DIP packages. I have never personally used any I/O expander, 
so all what I wrote is a concept, not a tested idea.
If all of your sensors and RTC module (if you are planning to use 4 tubes 
as a clock, too) use I2C, then you could end up with a project using only 
those I/Os of your RPI :) I personally prefer using as many I/Os as I can.
If you want RGB lightning, I'm sure there are I2C chips capable of 
controlling them by current sinking. 
To change brightness of nixies you should "PWM" them. This is the best 
method of dimming nixies - changing HV supply voltage will eventually lead 
to undercurrenting tubes, and in that state they do not light a full digit. 
It is easiest to apply when multiplexing the display, as you need some dead 
time to avoid ghosting - so to change brightness you just make the dead 
time longer.
For a power supply I would recommend some dual voltage wall wart - 3A for 
RPI + 12,5mA x6 for 74141s + other modules... you will quickly require high 
current on 5V line, and to get HV from a switching supply, you will require 
at least 9V (12V preferably). If you won't find a 5V4A + 12V1A wall wart, 
then you probably have to either get a transformer and wire it to your 
liking or make a two-stage boost converter to make 180V out of 5V***.
I recommend making a HV PSU basing on NE555 with 12V supply - I made my 
unit for nixie testing and it was tested for 200V 40mA, reaching 83% 
efficiency (could be better if I used bigger resistors for feedback). 

*in fact, I already made such adapter a week ago as a part of bigger board, 
which had some unused space, but I deleted it and made a LC-531 adapter, 
because I lost an auction for IN-14s.
**all my 74141 which I tested didn't allow to turn a nixie off by sending a 
value bigger than 9 to it, there was a slight glow around all digits. So to 
be 100% sure that a nixie is turned off, you might use either a transistor 
anode switch or use a transoptor (optoisolator).
***there are possiblities to get 200V out of 5V, but they aren't easy or 
they provide little current - first one is a switching PSU with a pulse 
transformer, the other one is making a boost converter to ~60V and use a 
series of voltage doublers. I find the second one a viable choice only if 
you want to make a multiplexed clock powered from USB.

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[neonixie-l] Raspberry PI controlled Nixie display

[Alic]

Hello,

Does it have to be RPi? There are many options available for arduino, but for 
some reason not many for the RPi (that I know of).
I think all options already include the 5V/3.3V and HV power-supply.

Here someone uses an RPi 0 with the Arduinix shield/HAT :
https://hackaday.io/project/16467-raspberry-pi-zero-nixie-clock

Concerning the power supply:
I have never seen a nixie-object where more than one voltage supply was outside.
Especially the HV supply is always close to the board.

I am still searching for a universal nixie (direct) drive board which has just 
connections for the cathodes, 5V or 12V supply, HV supply control (output 
enable?) and one of the serial interfaces compatible with arduino and RPi.
Swissnixies Sunix - S comes very close :

http://www.swissnixie.com/index.php?go=sunixs




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[neonixie-l] Re: question about threeneurons clock kit

[Tomas Begley]

@threenurons  I noticed that you sold out of the full kit options, do you 
have any scope for doing more of the full kit options? or even if you only 
did full kit minus the drive chips that would be okay.

regards 
 Tomas


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[neonixie-l] Raspberry PI controlled Nixie display

[okniew]

Hello everyone!

 

I’m new to this group and this is my first post.

I’m looking forward to design & build a particular project with Nixie 
display, but since I’m really not an expert and just starting, I would very 
much appreciate your help & feedback. I do have some specific questions (in 
the end), but if you look at project goal & design principles and think of 
better way to do things – please comment as well!

 

*Project goals:*

A Raspberry PI controlled Nixie display, with some additional LED 
indicators for weather conditions. Nixie display will be used to display 
the time or temperature or humidity, depending on settings.

Main assumptions:

1. 6 lamps: IN-19V ("+"/"-"), 4 x IN-14 ("0" - "9" + 2 dots), IN-19A 
("C"/"%") 

2. Ability to control Nixie brightness (by Raspberry PI) 

3. LED RGB back-light under each tube, with color & brightness controlled 
(by Raspberry PI)


The look I want to achieve:


 

*Design principles:*

1. As much as possible – use the components available on the market. I’d 
like to avoid designing PCBs, avoid designing custom circuits, minimize 
soldering, etc. I understand I’ll have to do those things to some extent, 
but being a newbie, I want to minimize room for failure or issues. 

2. A single visible power supply for the whole thing, from 230V AC outlet, 
driving all 6 nixies (180V, 30mA), Raspberry (5V, 3A) and the LEDs.

3. All components should be ideally driven by Raspberry I2C bus interface, 
using which I could control separately: displayed value of each tube, 
brightness of each tube, color & brightness of each LED. I think this is 
the easiest and most versatile approach (but again – looking for 
confirmation / other suggestions)

 

*Questions to start with:*

1. Are there any available to be purchased components, which you could 
recommend, fulfilling above design principles & goals? Right now, I have 
the Raspberry & the tubes, but nothing “in between” J

2. Do you think my idea of controlling all components via I2C bus is a good 
idea? I want to go for the easiest and most versatile approach.

3. Are there anywhere existing sockets for IN-14 / IN-19 tubes? Or will I 
have to solder to tubes to whatever components I select?

 

Thanks a lot for your help!

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