If You are not going to shuffle around Your tubes, then de-poisoning will
not help prolong tube life as the heavily used numbers still wear out
first. If You shuffle them they will have some mechanical stress every time
that is done and maybe cause a leak. Having moveable tube mounts and switch
Congratulations to Your licence!
The only factory built trx I'm aware of with a nixie display was the
Signal/One CX-7. As I remember the later revisions of it got a LED
display. The Signal/One was a very advanced radio of it's time, but not
general coverage so the WARC-bands will be missing.
If You concider blanking the tubes, that includes PWM for intensity
control, by the cathode drivers then use something that can take the whole
anode voltage. I.e. MPSA42. Period.
"There are some oddities like the UDT-3. Every one I've seen has been an
intentional dud with an internal shorting bar."
Seems very strange to me. I think it's much more likely the metal bar is a
mistakenly left over detail as the result of a produktion error. It holds
the pixels in a perfekt
Using a double primary as a substitute for a secondary is a big no-no! You
won't have the appropriate insulation to the mains. You will be just the
thickness of two layers of enamel from grabbing the mains supply if any
parts of the circuit can be touched. Scarry, isn't it?...
Compromizing
An easy and dry method is to lift it off with adhesive tape. Just rub on
standard office tape and when removed the paint will come off with the
tape. This works on almost all tubes. It's very easy to do.
Some types like f.ex. ZM1210 has been colored with some kind of thin dye
and for them
The schematic on taht link is CRAP! You will blow some components if You
try!
It is imperative to have a resistor between the collector of NPN and base
of the PNP. Otherwise it will end up in a short circuit when the NPN
conducts. Google around for high end nixie drivers and You will find
As this group has a deep understanding and waste knowledge of hollow state
devices, I would like to ask for an opinion about the state of those tubes
pictured in the link below.
They are RCA 6AH6 that appears on the market from several sources, claiming
they are NOS/NIB. Are there any
Great Thanks for all the information! You are all quite right and this was
something quite new to me.
When I look carefully with a magnifying glass there are definitely lines in
the coating where the mica wafer has scratched it when the tubes internal
parts was inserted in the glass envelope.
Can You see if the mercury giver has released it's content? Did the failed
tube show any sign of a different color? I have a Telefunken ZM1210 where
the giver has not melted as it should. That tube lights up in a much more
reddish color than the OK ones. If there was an overcurrent or too long
Not my auktion.
There is an Omni-Ray display module up for sale on eBay! USD28 BiN. Maybe
of some interest for someone here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Vintage-Burroughs-Spherical-Display-SD-12-by-Motorola-NOS-/232058166002?hash=item3607be9af2:g:I8QAAOSw6n5XvRdF
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>
>
> Anyone here have more details ?
>
The german Nixie King have some info on his page:
http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/data/SD12W/SD12W-28V.htm
I have a couple of heavily damaged units. They have been exposed to bad
environment and the film with the pattern that creates the digits
Are You sure You have connected the tube correctly? It's possible to
reverse the anode and auxilliary cathode and it apperars tp work, but with
a very high current needed for full scale "deflection". Under those
conditions, the tube burns out quite fast.
There is a thread about that in this
I agree that thing is most certainly a LED display. Too thin to be a
panaplex, Try to connect 5V in series with f.ex. 1k8 to various pins and
look for any light. Those old LED's are very sensitive. Too high current
and they are instantly gone.
The number 670 may refere to an old red display on
If the pin leading up to the non functional digit beneath the mica sheet is
glowing then the spot weld connecting the numeral to it's pin is probably
broken. Maybe knocking on it can restore the connection temporarily, but
the fault will reappear for sure. There is nothing to do that can
The Weston book Cold Cathode Glow Discharge Tubes mentions some tests of
this. The findings are that sputtering is exponential. At constant current
increases with current raised to the power of 2.5 and 1.5 at 50% duty if I
remember correctly.
As the perceived brightness also drops slower than
Don't confuse tubes now.
The Y1938 from GE is something quite different than TungSol Digivac DT170?.
The GE tube has the fluorocent areas "printed" on a bigger anode area. The
Digivac has free segments hanging in the vacuum (1704) or supported by a
mica (1705).
Both of those comes with many
I was telling crap, sorry...
The difference between DT1704 and 1705 is a decimal point. Precence or
abcence of the mica is indicated by the version letter after the numerals.
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Just use a common plastic hair comb. Use it to charge with static
electricity and discharge to the glass bulb or the pins. Do it in a dark
place. The neon will give off little flashes of orange light if it's there.
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philthepill wrote:
>
> Many of the workers who painted the watch hands etc died of radiation
> poisoning in the early 20th century. Marie Curie who discovered radium
> also died of radiation poisoning.
>
Don't scarry up people too much...
Those poor workers was not informed that ingesting the
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