On Thu, Nov 05, 2009 at 01:46:42PM -0500, Ed Keeney wrote:
A few weeks back I had asked about using a flash at an event and
either a diffuser or bounce card. I eventually went with the
Lumiquest Pocket Bouncer.
The event was last week. As for the results, I think some of the
shots came
Just sending an update - I did a little recon and found that the
ceiling at the venue is vaulted and 20+ feet, too high for a standard
bounce.
I had checked the Vivitar 285HV and the voltage issue isn't an issue.
I debated on getting the Fong Dong thing, but the learning curve in a
short
Good choice. The 80/20 needs help from a ceiling, but it's great where
that's available.
Paul
On Sep 28, 2009, at 10:12 AM, Ed Keeney wrote:
Just sending an update - I did a little recon and found that the
ceiling at the venue is vaulted and 20+ feet, too high for a standard
bounce.
I had
Miserere, Pasvorn, I heard about an older version of the 285 that would
be dangerous.
I have one (2001 bought) that is just about 7 volts on the trigger,
currently swapped for a FTZ 330.
Ed, since you already paired your 285 with the K100d, I'd assume your is
safe. But checking is always a
Luiz,
Thank for the information.
In general, how do you check voltage trigger for a flash?
-Pasvorn
On Sat, Sep 19, 2009 at 7:01 AM, Luiz Felipe luiz.fel...@techmit.com.br wrote:
Miserere, Pasvorn, I heard about an older version of the 285 that would be
dangerous.
I have one (2001 bought)
Well, I use a voltmeter capable of good information on the desired volt
range. In these days of almost disposable multiple reading digital
meters, every single model I know offers a 0~20 volt setting for DC
current. Hold one of the meter's probes to the ground part of the flash
shoe, the other
Small details that skipped my keyboard:
In using digital voltmeters the placement of the probes is simple, as
the display will present results with a - sign if you invert positive
and negative probes on dc voltages. Needle voltmeters will try do swing
to the wrong side of the display -
From: Luiz Felipe
Miserere, Pasvorn, I heard about an older version of the 285 that would
be dangerous.
I have one (2001 bought) that is just about 7 volts on the trigger,
currently swapped for a FTZ 330.
Ed, since you already paired your 285 with the K100d, I'd assume your is
safe. But
From: Pasvorn Boonmark
Luiz,
Thank for the information.
In general, how do you check voltage trigger for a flash?
http://www.botzilla.com/photo/G1strobe.html
scroll down.
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2009/9/17 Ed Keeney ewkph...@gmail.com:
De-lurking to pose a question...
I've been nominated (not at my request) to take pictures at a end of
year dinner for my daughters softball team. I did something similar
about 15 years ago with an older setup I no longer have (theft).
Since then,
On Fri, Sep 18, 2009 at 7:38 AM, Miserere miser...@gmail.com wrote:
One thing nobody has mentioned is the trigger voltage of the Vivitar
285HV. I just want to make sure that the voltage is low enough for
your camera.
Miserere,
Very good point to bring up. The 285HV is safe. I have 2 of
From: Miserere
2009/9/17 Ed Keeney ewkph...@gmail.com:
De-lurking to pose a question...
I've been nominated (not at my request) to take pictures at a end of
year dinner for my daughters softball team. ?I did something similar
about 15 years ago with an older setup I no longer have (theft).
Don't forget the recycle time issue. With more power used, the
recycle times increase - so you have to be aware of how much time
between shots you have. The Fong unit does take quite a bit more
power than a bouncer, so your between shot time increases quite a bit.
When I don't know what the
Hi Ed
Well you've gone right to the source so we'll give you an answer that
you'll endorse =P
The bigger the exit surface of the light, the softer and nicer the light.
Seeing you don't know about the ceiling, go sneak a peek first or go
with a diffusor / softbox or maybe one of those zany high
Hi Ed,
The safest bet for situations where you don't know what kind of
ceiling you'll be working with is the Lumiquest Pocket Bounce.
http://www.lumiquest.com/products/pocket-bouncer.htm
This device provides nice diffusion and a natural look but doesn't
rely on help from the ceiling.
Ecke - I saw the Fong Dong / lightsphere, looked interesting, wasn't
sure about results
Paul - That's what I had used in the past. I figured I'd ask around
before I went out and bought something.
--
Thanks!
Ed
http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto/PESO?feat=directlink
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PDML Pentax-Discuss
I actually use the Fong Lightsphere more often than the Lumiquest
pocket bounce, but it's somewhat dependent on the height and color of
the ceiling. It can yield great results but requires more work and
practice than the Lumiquest pocket bounce. On the other hand, the
Lightsphere is much
From: Ed Keeney
De-lurking to pose a question...
I've been nominated (not at my request) to take pictures at a end of
year dinner for my daughters softball team. I did something similar
about 15 years ago with an older setup I no longer have (theft).
Since then, things have changed, yet things
On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 02:32:57PM -0400, Ed Keeney wrote:
De-lurking to pose a question...
Does anyone have thoughts on using a bounce card versus using a
diffuser for flash shots? Any recommendations to look at?
My usual preferred diffuser is the big lumiquest:
Hi Ed: Looks like you got some good advice from Ecki, Paul John, so I
can't really add much. As Ecki said, try to sneak a peek at the event
venue, and see if you can ask about lights. Don't forget to check the color
of the ceiling if it's a good height to bounce flash light. The shots on
You're right, Christine. The Fong Lightsphere will be marginal with
the 360. It sacrifices a couple of stops and requires plenty of power.
Paul
On Sep 17, 2009, at 9:40 PM, Christine Aguila wrote:
Hi Ed: Looks like you got some good advice from Ecki, Paul John,
so I can't really add much.
Hello,
I still use the 285HV with the K10D. I managed to shoe-horn a
diffuser which was meant for Sunpak 4205 into the slot intended for
the filters of the Vivitar. Although I used a DIY bounce card before,
I found this more compact but it is difficult to remove and put back
on so it virtually
AFAIK, the red windows on the front of the Pentax flashes are for autofocus
only.
Pentax did make a flash distributor years ago that allows for multi-flash TTL
metering. I wonder how many they actually sold. I got one at what must have
been a very good price (or I wouldn't have bought it) off
On 13.07.2006, at 14:35 , Tom Reese wrote:
Pentax did make a flash distributor years ago that allows for multi-
flash TTL metering. I wonder how many they actually sold. I got one
at what must have been a very good price (or I wouldn't have bought
it) off of KEH a few years ago.
I
The only flashes I know of which can IR trigger (Nikon SB-50DX and
SB-30) use a IR filter in front of the main flash tube to do so. The red
plastic covers the AF assist only on just about every non-Canon flash
I've run across (The Canon EZ series flashes use an IR preflash from the
AF-Assist
I did a little checking. Boz has a picture of one on his website. It uses the
4P cabling system which is apparently incompatible with the current 5P system.
It of seemingly limited value to anyone using current Pentax equipment.
Tom Reese
-- Original message
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Tom Reese)
Date: 2006/07/13 Thu PM 01:09:48 GMT
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Subject: Re: Flash Question
I did a little checking. Boz has a picture of one on his website. It uses the
4P cabling system which is apparently incompatible
At a local photographers meet around here a month or so ago I saw
a really cool gadget; it was a small IR filter that you attached
to the hotshoe of your camera, and which covered the front of the
pop-up flash.
I believe this was manufactured by Nikon, but it certainly looked
as though it would
mike wilson wrote:
The AF280T (a 4P TTL flash) is current.
Not any more. Pentax obsoleted it a couple of months ago.
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412-687-2835
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Mark Roberts wrote:
mike wilson wrote:
The AF280T (a 4P TTL flash) is current.
Not any more. Pentax obsoleted it a couple of months ago.
I'm sorry to hear that. I'm even sorrier to see you use obsolete as a
verb. 8-)
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mike wilson wrote:
Mark Roberts wrote:
mike wilson wrote:
The AF280T (a 4P TTL flash) is current.
Not any more. Pentax obsoleted it a couple of months ago.
I'm sorry to hear that. I'm even sorrier to see you use obsolete as a
verb. 8-)
Ah, a holdover from my days in Components
Yep, Nikon makes these so the popup on the D70 and D200 can wirelessly
control other CLS flashes without adding to the exposure. It's available
individually or with the SB-R1 Macro flash kit.
-Adam
John Francis wrote:
At a local photographers meet around here a month or so ago I saw
a
Mark Roberts wrote:
I'm sorry to hear that. I'm even sorrier to see you use obsolete as a
verb. 8-)
Ah, a holdover from my days in Components Engineering, I'm afraid.
I'm probably scarred for life!
As long as you don't use architect as a verb... As in Joe is
architecting a new
Christian wrote:
Mark Roberts wrote:
I'm sorry to hear that. I'm even sorrier to see you use obsolete as a
verb. 8-)
Ah, a holdover from my days in Components Engineering, I'm afraid.
I'm probably scarred for life!
As long as you don't use architect as a verb... As
Maybe I'm missing something here...but the ist D will
wirelessly control slave flashes, too. Push the flash
button until W appears in the top LCD, then follow
the instructions for the flash. Works nicely with my
Sigma 500DL Super.
Rick
--- Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Yep, Nikon makes
It most certainly will, but like the D70, it adds to the exposure. The
IR filter allows it to control the flash but not add to the exposure.
-Adam
Rick Womer wrote:
Maybe I'm missing something here...but the ist D will
wirelessly control slave flashes, too. Push the flash
button until W
Ryan Brooks wrote:
Christian wrote:
Mark Roberts wrote:
I'm sorry to hear that. I'm even sorrier to see you use obsolete as a
verb. 8-)
Ah, a holdover from my days in Components Engineering, I'm afraid.
I'm probably scarred for life!
As long as you don't use architect as a
- Original Message -
From: mike wilson
Subject: Re: Flash Question
I'm sorry to hear that. I'm even sorrier to see you use obsolete as a
verb. 8-)
Wouldn't that be obsolesced?
William Robb
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I'm sorry to hear that. I'm even sorrier to see you use obsolete
as a
verb. 8-)
Obsolete is either an adjective or a verb. Check the dictionary...
---
from Merriam-Webster dictionary of the American Language
obsolete
adjective
1 no longer produced or used; out of date : the disposal of
Michael
The AF400FTZ uses TTL, no P-TTL or wireless on a istD(L). The zoom is manual.
Toine
On 3/16/06, Michael Chan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I am looking for a decent flash for my Pentax *ist DL. I have an old
Vivitar 383 super but I am ready to upgrade. I am looking at the
Sigma EF-500 DG
On Thu, 16 Mar 2006, Michael Chan wrote:
I am looking for a decent flash for my Pentax *ist DL. I have an old Vivitar
383 super but I am ready to upgrade. I am looking at the Sigma EF-500 DG
Super based on a recommendation by Mark Roberts. I am also looking at the
Pentax AF400FTZ and was
Right now, only the Sigma EF 500 DG Super or the Pentax AF360FGZ will
exploit all the DL body's capabilities. Pentax new higher end flash,
the AF540FGZ, is due soon.
Godfrey
On Mar 16, 2006, at 2:02 PM, Michael Chan wrote:
I am looking for a decent flash for my Pentax *ist DL. I have an
Expresses the strength of af flash.
GN is (american) the light needed to expose the film/sensor correctly and is
equal to the aperture (F-stop) to be used at ISO 100, at a distance of 1
foot.
European GN is the same but at a 1 m distance. Thus appr. 1/3 of the
American GN (foot).
GN 45
Wasn't there a Manual flash for dummies posted here some time ago?
m
From: P. J. Alling [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 2005/09/26 Mon PM 11:10:36 GMT
To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
Subject: Re: Flash Question
Good simple explanation here. I've seen them go on and on...
http://www.kjsl.com
Yes - Mafud wrote it. He used about 10,000 words where about 100 would do.
--
Cheers,
Bob
-Original Message-
From: mike wilson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 27 September 2005 08:54
To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
Subject: Re: Re: Flash Question
Wasn't there a Manual flash
- Original Message -
From: Bob W
Subject: RE: Re: Flash Question
Yes - Mafud wrote it. He used about 10,000 words where about 100 would do.
Some here are more prone to that than others.
William Robb
What's a Guide Number and how does it work?
For manual flash, you use the number to calculate the correct aperture for
proper exposure. You divide the guide number by the number of feet (or
meters use the correct unit) from flash to subject to arrive at the proper f
stop. The guide number
Shel Belinkoff wrote:
What's a Guide Number and how does it work?
Shel
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guide_number
/Henri
- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff
Subject: Flash Question
What's a Guide Number and how does it work?
http://www.shortcourses.com/how/guidenumbers/guidenumbers.htm
http://www.naturephotographers.net/articles0703/jm0703-1.html
that should give you an idea.
bill
Shel Belinkoff wrote:
What's a Guide Number and how does it work?
Shel
The Guide number is flash distance times aperture.
So a guide number of 30 feet will give a flash working distance of 15'
at f2, at f4 it would be 7.5'. Meters work the same way, just in meters.
Minimum distance is
Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Shel Belinkoff wrote:
What's a Guide Number and how does it work?
The Guide number is flash distance times aperture.
So a guide number of 30 feet will give a flash working distance of 15'
at f2, at f4 it would be 7.5'. Meters work the same way, just in
On Sep 26, 2005, at 12:04 PM, Shel Belinkoff wrote:
What's a Guide Number and how does it work?
A Guide Number is a number based on flash output used to calculate
aperture setting per a given ISO and subject distance to obtain
correct exposure.
For example:
A flash has a Guide Number in
Good simple explanation here. I've seen them go on and on...
http://www.kjsl.com/~dave/gn.html
Shel Belinkoff wrote:
What's a Guide Number and how does it work?
Shel
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When you're worried or in doubt,
Run in circles, (scream and shout).
You're welcome.
Jens Bladt
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://hjem.get2net.dk/bladt
-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: Feroze Kistan [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sendt: 21. maj 2004 00:53
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: flash question
Hi Jens,
Ah (a lightbulb moment for sure) , I did confuse
PROTECTED]
http://hjem.get2net.dk/bladt
-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: Feroze Kistan [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sendt: 20. maj 2004 21:27
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: flash question
Hi Jens,
Thanks, unfortunately this one is not a pentax flash, its a vivtar
macroflash 5000, a very
Hi Jens,
Ah (a lightbulb moment for sure) , I did confuse the two terms. Thanks for
the explanation.
Feroze
- Original Message -
From: Jens Bladt [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2004 11:54 PM
Subject: RE: flash question
Feroze
I think you may
-1p).
Len
---
-Original Message-
From: tom [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 6:51 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Flash question...
Here's an online reference:
http://www.photographytips.com/page.cfm/280
but Kodak says:
http://www.kodak.com/global/en
t Basically the calculation is the same, the difference is that the
t distance is from flash to bounce point to subject. The X factor is how
t high the ceiling is, so I don't think there's any rule we can give you.
Is that true? The normal calculations works for spread of radiation,
according to
On 13 Dec 2001 at 0:22, Frantisek Vlcek wrote:
I remember seeing some formula, but there would be much more error
than in the simple direct-flash formula. For bounce, flashmeter or
auto/ttl metering is imho best.
And the use of TTL or Flash meters also compensates for the unpredictable
Frantisek Vlcek wrote:
t Basically the calculation is the same, the difference is that the
t distance is from flash to bounce point to subject. The X factor is how
t high the ceiling is, so I don't think there's any rule we can give you.
Is that true? The normal calculations works for
Tom wrote:
I was under the impression the rays just bounced off the plane at the
angle they came in at (angle of incidence?). The bounce doesn't spread
them out any more, though I guess a stucco style ceiling might do a
little of that.
The light *is* more spread out because it's traveling
Jos from Holland wrote:
Not fully right Tom, your statement is only correct for a shiny surface, in
that case every part of the reflector (the ceiling) is directing the light
in the same way. But a perfect non-shiny (I do not know the right word in
english: difuse?)surface will reflect
It depends somewhat on the height of your ceiling.
With the 285 and 280T (I have/use both as well on a ZX-M), if there's enough light
reflecting, then you'll saturate enough to satisfy the settings.
If you're just trying to make the flash less-direct, the it depends on the angle
you're using.
Hey now lets not get into the 500FTZ tanning machine.
--- Collin Brendemuehl [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It depends somewhat on the height of your ceiling.
With the 285 and 280T (I have/use both as well on a
ZX-M), if there's enough light reflecting, then
you'll saturate enough to satisfy the
Using an RTF indoors would be my last resort - only if it provided
the only means to take a picture. I sometimes - though quite rarely -
use an RTF for fill-in outdoors, but solely with lenses that are
small in size and this limits the choice to primes in the 28 - 85
range or short standard
On the odd occasion i use a flash i never leave the lense hood on, from
experience it pretty much always causes vignetting. If you need the flash
chance your not in a situation where the hood will be stopping any flare.
Thinking about it now i dont think i've ever used the flash on my MZ5n, i
On Tue, 13 Feb 2001, martin tammer wrote:
Is it safe to use an older flash such as a Vivitar
2800 on a MZ-10?
As far as safety goes, I've heard that the older ones can have very high
trigger voltages and can damage your camera, while the newer ones are safe
to use. It's one of the problems
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