My father-in-law's house, to which we will be moving soon, includes a fully
equipped darkroom. Two enlargers [Bessler 23C Series II with Universal
Colorhead, the other has no visible nameplate, looks kinda like an Omega but
isn't; lenses include Elgeet 135/4.5 Colorstigmat, EL-Nikkor 80/5.6,
You have mail =)
Ecke
2010/8/9 Stan Halpin s...@stans-photography.info:
My father-in-law's house, to which we will be moving soon, includes a fully
equipped darkroom. Two enlargers [Bessler 23C Series II with Universal
Colorhead, the other has no visible nameplate, looks kinda like an Omega
-
From: Joseph Tainter [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 8:06 PM
To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
Subject: Re: OT: Darkroom temperature control.
Unfortunately the tap water here runs 70-74 degrees at its
coldest in summer.
--
I have seen (but never
I spent years working with water baths and other stuff to stabilize
and control temperature. Then, I got fed up with all of it and
decided to experiment ... I only ever processed BW film at home:
- standardized on two developers (HC-110 and XTOL). Then stuck with
XTOL.
- went to one-shot
Unfortunately the tap water here runs 70-74 degrees at its
coldest in summer.
--
I have seen (but never patronized) photo-processing places in Mali,
where I have experienced temperatures of 140 F (60 C). These places do
not have any sort of cooling. I have always wondered how they
I guess I'll take 74 and like it. ;-)
Geez, they must develop Tri-X in like 22 and a half seconds!
Don
-Original Message-
From: Joseph Tainter [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 8:06 PM
To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
Subject: Re: OT: Darkroom temperature control
- Original Message -
From: Joseph Tainter
Subject: Re: OT: Darkroom temperature control.
Unfortunately the tap water here runs 70-74 degrees at its
coldest in summer.
--
I have seen (but never patronized) photo-processing places in Mali, where
I have experienced
I've just purchased the components to design and build some
precision temperature controls for darkroom chemistry.
I have the heating part down but am at a bit of a loss as to
what to use for cooling the different solutions.
Other than keeping the entire darkroom at 68 degrees or below
does anyone
http://www.thinkgeek.com/cubegoodies/toys/60ad/
I suppose you could hack together some sort of thermostat that drops
into your bottles/tanks, and then point the unit right at them. ;)
On 7/15/05, Don Sanderson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've just purchased the components to design and build some
At one time I had the cooling unit for an old water fountain setup as a water
chiller in my dark room. Worked well with a temp control valve. Chillers were
the standard in pro darkrooms in days gone by, but now they usually us high
temps and chillers have kind of disappeared from the darkroom
With most of pro studios and bigger freelancers moved to digital
backs, I saw an influx of cheap JOBO processors. I got one myself for
about 100 Euro (and that was more than year before) with all the
accessories and tanks (the middle grade model with lift), for
developig BW...
I guess elsewhere
If anyone is wanting cheap darkroom stuff, boy is it really getting cheap. Midwest
Photo has a bunch of used Jobo stuff.
I got a small tank, 4x5 holder, daylight non-mechanical cap, and rollers for cheap.
Just ask for Dan. http://www.mpex.com
There is no quid pro quo, I just enjoy shopping
Rollers? Mechanical processor?
-Mat
On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 09:25:48 -0400, Collin Brendemuehl
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
If anyone is wanting cheap darkroom stuff, boy is it really getting cheap. Midwest
Photo has a bunch of used Jobo stuff.
I got a small tank, 4x5 holder, daylight non-mechanical
I got the little rollers that will let me spin it manually.
They'll be hot-glued to a base this week. Looks to be a really convenient system. I
just have to figure out the time changes and develop a consistent rolling practice.
Sincerely,
C. Brendemuehl
Do you keep a fixer batch for paper separate from your fixer for film?
Does having a single batch affect anything?
Collin
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Shel,
Thanks for the info. It's odd, really.
When I did some T-Max there were no bubbles.
Only on Tri-X.
I've learned since that the Yankee 4x5 daylight
tank is notorious for being bubble-tolerant.
Also, the identical instruction was gotten from
the LF guy at Midwest Photo here in Columbus.
Sounds like a pre-wetting problem. I now let the tank run for about 4
minutes with 1/100 ilfotol (Same thing as Kodak's Phto-flo wetting agent).
I use a Jobo, so its constant agitation.
I had the same problem on a couple of rolls i did in a hurry a few months
ago, and that was the problem.
Ok.
What I'm not enjoying in the darkroom is a new problem.
My T-Max development went ok once I figured out times.
But my Tri-X film has spots on it. Even-sized dots.
I agitate regularly. Any ideas?
TIA,
Collin
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Collin ...
Do you bang the tank down on the workspace after each
agitation cycle to dislodge air bubbles?
Collin Brendemuehl wrote:
What I'm not enjoying in the darkroom is a new problem.
My T-Max development went ok once I figured out times.
But my Tri-X film has spots on it. Even-sized
I developed some T-Max 400 (4x5) this a.m.
2 batches, 2 sheets each batch.
The image content is fine, except,
what would be clear is a pinkish-orangish tone.
Barely transparent. That can't be right.
Contaminated developer?
Collin
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Nope, that's T-Max. A good hypo clearing agent will take a lot of that
out...
Norm
Collin Brendemuehl wrote:
I developed some T-Max 400 (4x5) this a.m.
2 batches, 2 sheets each batch.
The image content is fine, except,
what would be clear is a pinkish-orangish tone.
Barely transparent.
I found out that it wasn't in the fixer long enough.
Putting it back for an extra few minutes fixed it.
Thanks,
Collin
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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In a message dated 5/9/2001 7:27:41 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Must tmax film be developed with tmax developer?
Tx,
Collin
With T-Max 400, I've had better success using D-76 1:1. I generally rate
the film at 320 and soup it for 10 minutes at 68
No. Any BW developer will do, but dilutions and times can be
tricky.
At 08:22 PM 05/09/2001 -0500, you wrote:
Must tmax film be developed with tmax developer?
Tx,
Collin
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
-
This message is from the
At 09:24 PM 05/09/2001 -0400, you wrote:
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 9:15 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT: Darkroom
In a message dated 5/9/2001 7:27:41 PM US Eastern
No.
You can find numerous options here:
http://www.digitaltruth.comphoto/devchart.html
Collin Brendemuehl wrote:
Must tmax film be developed with tmax developer?
--
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Grain is the brushstroke of photography. - Man Ray
-
This message is from the
In a message dated 5/9/2001 7:27:41 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Must tmax film be developed with tmax developer?
Tx,
Collin
No. I dislike tmax developer and use D-76 instead.
Ed
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-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 9:15 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT: Darkroom
In a message dated 5/9/2001 7:27:41 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED
I may try it again, reducing the exposure for the lightbox another stop.
You can tell I was in the middle of a session by all the discarded paper
on the floor...
What's the camera and lens next to the lightbox?
--mike
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Michael Nosal wrote:
I may try it again, reducing the exposure for the lightbox another stop.
You can tell I was in the middle of a session by all the discarded paper
on the floor...
What's the camera and lens next to the lightbox?
ZX-5n and 85/1.4.
tv
-
This message is from the
I was taking a darkroom break last week, and got the itch to hear my
pz-1p's shutter fire. So I took a pics of my darkroom using the 16/2.8
fisheye and Gold 100:
http://bigdayphoto.com/tom/images/darkroom2.jpg
Lighting is from the lightbox.
Well, that was kind of boring, so I tried it with the
This book rocks:
Black White : Photographic Printing Workshop
by Larry Bartlett (Photographer), Jon Tarrant
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1883403391/103-7898958-1379839
My last few printing sessions have been rather depressing. I found a few
techniques addressing my specific
tom wrote:
This book rocks:
Black White : Photographic Printing Workshop
by Larry Bartlett (Photographer), Jon Tarrant
I wonder if that second to last review is Shel's?
No, it's not. I wasn't familiar with the book, but based on
comments I've read, and your endorsement, I just
Shel Belinkoff wrote:
tom wrote:
This book rocks:
Black White : Photographic Printing Workshop
by Larry Bartlett (Photographer), Jon Tarrant
I wonder if that second to last review is Shel's?
No, it's not. I wasn't familiar with the book, but based on
comments I've read,
This book rocks:
Black White : Photographic Printing Workshop
by Larry Bartlett (Photographer), Jon Tarrant
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1883403391/103-7898958-1379839
My last few printing sessions have been rather depressing. I found a few
techniques addressing my specific
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