Oh, in case it is my e-mail, you can try jandtyo...@sbcglobal.net, but
don't add this address to the list serve.
Thanks,
Jeff
Wisconsin
-Original Message-
From: Jeffry Young, D.O.
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2011 3:59 PM
To: 'Antique Phonograph List'
Subject: Is Phono-L okay?
Haven't
It's been quiet.
--Original Message--
From: Jeffry Young, D.O.
Sender: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org
To: Antique Phonograph List
ReplyTo: Antique Phonograph List
Subject: [Phono-L] Is Phono-L okay?
Sent: Jan 7, 2011 1:59 PM
Haven't gotten anything since 01/02/2011. Is it my e-mail program
I just got a junker Victor-R. The tone arm support and motor board
have been spray painted! (So have the turntable and the metal tone arm)
Any advice on removing the paint and, perhaps preserving any anodizing
on these parts?
Bix Stripper, or 3M natural orange based stripper?
Other methods?
I paid Loran my dues thru' paypal. He is offering a free preview Jan 6 thru'
the tenth.
grin I won't repeat any emails posted. I hope no one gets a sore leg from
this.
Oldcranky
Mike
On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 2:00 PM, john9...@pacbell.net wrote:
It's been quiet.
--Original Message--
I used the orange based stripper which did not affect my R's oxidized metal.
Afterwards you should spray the metal with lacquer.
-Original Message-
From: Jeffry Young, D.O. jeff...@prevea.com
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Fri, Jan 7, 2011 5:08 pm
Subject: Re:
I must have missed an important e-mail! If there are now dues to
continue to be included, I guess I need this new information. Perhaps I
am not the only one that does not know about this? Man do I feel dumb!
Jeff
Wisconsin
-Original Message-
From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org
Jeffery,
I'm pulling everybodies leg Just been quiet that's all. Good luck on the
R, they are nice machines.
Mike
On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 2:24 PM, Jeffry Young, D.O. jeff...@prevea.comwrote:
I must have missed an important e-mail! If there are now dues to
continue to be included, I guess I
I must admit I missed it..
-Original Message-
From: Jeffry Young, D.O. jeff...@prevea.com
Sender: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 16:24:47
To: Antique Phonograph Listphono-l@oldcrank.org
Reply-To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Is
STOP IT, your killing me. It's just quiet that's all. I'm worse in person.
I'll drink your beer.
Mike
On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 2:27 PM, john9...@pacbell.net wrote:
I must admit I missed it..
-Original Message-
From: Jeffry Young, D.O. jeff...@prevea.com
Sender:
You sure had me going!
Jeff
Wisconsin
-Original Message-
From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org]
On Behalf Of Mike Stitt
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2011 4:27 PM
To: Antique Phonograph List
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Is Phono-L okay? - Dues?
Jeffery,
I'm
You rat!! Good one!!
-Original Message-
From: Mike Stitt smst...@gmail.com
Sender: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 14:27:29
To: Antique Phonograph Listphono-l@oldcrank.org
Reply-To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Is Phono-L okay? -
Jeff,
The orange based stripper works well. Just try it in a small area under the
turntable first. It's good to hear that there are still some good finds out
there.
The tone arm on my Victor Rigid arm R has been buffed by a previous owner
that took off most of the nice oxidized finish.
It is not a hard finish to replicate and can be fun to do.
Mike
On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 3:00 PM, John Maeder appywan...@hotmail.com wrote:
Steve Farmer can replicate that finish.
From: kb...@charter.net
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 16:42:55 -0600
Subject: [Phono-L]
Is there any description of the technique online, or can you please give us a
brief outline?
Sent from my iPhone
-- Peter
pjfra...@mac.com
On Jan 7, 2011, at 3:03 PM, Mike Stitt smst...@gmail.com wrote:
It is not a hard finish to replicate and can be fun to do.
Mike
On Fri, Jan 7, 2011
Peter,
On mine years ago I started with a copper base. It hopefully is still there
if not plate it. Use gun bluing and I think I used antique brown. Turn it
brown. Use a dremel tool and its buffing wheel and buff off the gun bluing
for effect. I would practice on scrap or under the turntable. You
Thanks!
Sent from my iPhone
-- Peter
pjfra...@mac.com
On Jan 7, 2011, at 3:53 PM, Mike Stitt smst...@gmail.com wrote:
Peter,
On mine years ago I started with a copper base. It hopefully is still there
if not plate it. Use gun bluing and I think I used antique brown. Turn it
brown. Use a
Keep in mind that the very earliest Rs did not have the oxidized finish, but
merely a dull gray metal finish. I will happily trade an original R support
arm with a decent oxidized finish for the same arm in the original dull gray.
George P.
-Original Message-
From: Peter
A friend once proudly showed me ALL the hinges, doorknobs, faceplates, latches, etc etc from all the doors, windows, and
even lights, switches, and outlet plates of his 1900 house and how he cleverly buffed off every bit of the tarnish,
right down to bare steel or brass. The steel parts
Idiot.
I've spent much of the past 10 years finding and installing oxidized bronze
hardware into our 1913 house, and am almost done. Part of the problem is that
nobody knows the correct term, so it's hard to search for it on eBay etc.
Sent from my iPhone
-- Peter
pjfra...@mac.com
On Jan 7,
You shouldn't give me ideas ;-)
Loran
On Jan 7, 2011, at 2:19 PM, Mike Stitt wrote:
I paid Loran my dues thru' paypal. He is offering a free preview Jan 6 thru'
the tenth.
grin I won't repeat any emails posted. I hope no one gets a sore leg from
this.
Oldcranky
Mike
If the metal parts aren't aluminum (I think only Columbia used aluminum)
there is no anodizing to preserve. OTOH, there may be nickel plate. Don't
know if stripeez attacks nickel. You could always try the underside of the
arm in a small area to see what happens.
Ron L
-Original
Mike,
Any suggestions on how to do it?
Thanks,
Ken
-Original Message-
From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On
Behalf Of Mike Stitt
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2011 5:04 PM
To: Antique Phonograph List
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Victor R
It is not a hard
While you all are talking about the bronze, oxidized Victor R...it brings back
a fond memory of mine.
My first front mount was a Victor P that I purchased in 1973. I really knew
nothing about phonographs back then. I DID have sense enough to know that the
Thorens reproducer was most likely a
Dull gray? I'm almost as old as Mike Stitt and I've never seen a gray deck on
an R. How long were they made that way? Anyone have a photo? Thanks, Jerry
Blais
___
Phono-L mailing list
http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
HEY! Who you call oldkid
I don't think I've seen a gray deck, well mine use to be gray, then I
dusted it.
MS
On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 7:24 PM, DeeDee Blais deedeebl...@yahoo.com wrote:
Dull gray? I'm almost as old as Mike Stitt and I've never seen a gray deck
on
an R. How long were they
Gosh am I in trouble. Brice and I did my R years ago. Brice used to be my
paper boy (cute kid) after Jerry Blais quit the route. Well as I recall we
started with the original copper base and heated it up and but brown gun
bluing on it. After it dried we used an electric draftsman eraser to remove
Jeffery,
You resurrected the dead...Phono-l is alive...and for free.
Mike
On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 6:54 PM, Ron L'Herault lhera...@bu.edu wrote:
If the metal parts aren't aluminum (I think only Columbia used aluminum)
there is no anodizing to preserve. OTOH, there may be nickel plate. Don't
I've only seen 2 or 3 myself. Only the first couple thousand Rs were done that
way. I have one here, but we can't post photos. I'll be happy to post photos
on one of the forums if you'd like.
George P.
-Original Message-
From: DeeDee Blais deedeebl...@yahoo.com
To:
If you go to a sporting store that sells guns and supplies, Super Blue (not
Perma Blue) works great for oxidizing parts and no heating is necessary. It
works great for aging back steel parts after cleaning off rust and buffing
them. It also ages brass...
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 19:43:32 -0800
Is the gray part zinc? The horn for my R is tin and zinc and looks gray if
scratched.
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 19:24:49 -0800
From: deedeebl...@yahoo.com
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Subject: [Phono-L] Vic R
Dull gray? I'm almost as old as Mike Stitt and I've never seen a gray deck on
an R.
VV,
In my post I said we heated the parts. Warm is the better word. The
solution seemed to take better when the parts were warm to the touch. As
I recall.
MS
On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 8:31 PM, Vinyl Visions vinyl.visi...@live.comwrote:
If you go to a sporting store that sells guns and supplies,
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