He is in Chico, CA, but Mitch Pryor at M.A.P bicycles does some pretty amazing
work. www.mapbicycles.com/
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Patrick, I got the Smith Pivlock at STP, which come with dark, light and
clear interchangeable lenses.
http://www.sierratradingpost.com/smith-optics-pivlock-v90-sunglasses-extra-lenses~p~4390r/?colorFamily=03
With a good coupon you can get these for $50.
On Wednesday, December 10, 2014
should have added this tool with full allen set is usually open when I'm
working on bikes.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aaP7140004.jpg
I have a few T-handle allens hanging through the holes in my bikestand tool
tray
On Tuesday, December 9, 2014 1:51:50 PM
Yep, I had no problems with 9 spd 11-32, a long cage Riv Microshift RD, and
Silver bar-end shifters on my Riv Road with a triple crank.
Well, the plastic washer cracked on one shifter while I was on tour, which
was a hassle. I have a handful of spares now.
However, I swapped the wheels back to
Whatch'all think?
Assuming you have a television, a maxed Mac Mini using the tv as monitor is
more than up to sophisticated word processing, spread sheeting, and with a
couple of relatively affordable tweaks can be the center of a high end
music system to boot.
Minis do not have the RAM and
Bruce Gordon is worth talking to as well.
Bruce is the best of the bunch. Not sure he would build around a Rohloff
though.
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If you are not in a rush, getting into Curtis Inglis' (Retrotec) queue can
prove highly rewarding.
Sycip up in Santa Rosa have produced a lot of neat bikes over the years as
well.
On Wednesday, December 10, 2014 4:25:20 PM UTC-6, BSWP wrote:
Well, my preferred route to a new custom touring
Although he is in Portland, you might also consider Bob of Bantam
Bicycles: http://www.bantambicycles.com/
The design you have in mind seems right up his alley.
KJ
On Wednesday, December 10, 2014 5:25:20 PM UTC-5, BSWP wrote:
Well, my preferred route to a new custom touring frame fell
Just wondering if anyone would like to swap? My set has less than a mile on
them. They were installed, ridden around the block and then removed when a
bike was sold.
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Plus two for Bob of Bantam Bicycles: http://www.bantambicycles.com/
On Thu, Dec 11, 2014 at 7:07 AM, Kieran J kjo...@gmail.com wrote:
Although he is in Portland, you might also consider Bob of Bantam
Bicycles: http://www.bantambicycles.com/
The design you have in mind seems right up his
Though this won't answer your question directly but in three months the
North American Handmade Bicycle Show is being held in Louisville, Kentucky.
Yes it is a far way from your state but you can meet more builders, in one
day than you can in a month in California.
I go every year just to
I know little of Macs, but if all you need is MSWord for work, any $150
used Windows Netbook will run MSWord 2010 (and likely 2013) more than
adequately. In fact, I think it would be hard to find a machine these days
(new *or* used) that wouldn't do the job.
If it's just gotta be an Apple
Patrick:
I really like my Oakley Frogskins. They have a traditional look that’s also a
bit modern, and the lenses and overall quality are very good. Only downside is
that they’re a bit pricey.
Here are mine: https://flic.kr/p/pod2zh https://flic.kr/p/pod2zh
--Eric N
campyonly...@me.com
In the case of safety or el-cheapo glasses, sizing might not be available
but on better frames, there are a few measurements for sizing. Here's one
link that goes over it well enough for most people's purposes:
http://simplyeyeglasses.com/help/frame_size.php
Some contractor glasses might be good.
I'd like to try out a set of cantilevers that were designed to clear the
fork blades and seatstays completely when quick released open. The ones
Rivendell sells are the Shimano CX70. I have a set of decidedly used
silver Paul Touring Cantilevers to offer in trade, before I go hit the
buy
If it's custom, you could try for a magic gear.
Can you put the shifter on the stem spacer-style, as if the stem quill is
the handlebar? Kind of a weird idea.
Philip
www.biketinker.com
On Wednesday, December 10, 2014 6:21:15 PM UTC-8, BSWP wrote:
Thanks for the link, that comes close. But I
Thanks for all the suggestions; much to follow up on. The comments on UV
protection lead me to believe that it might be best to buy a brand name.
I've got a pair of Tifosi transitional lens shades that were cheap (~$35)
at Nashbar and they're fine. I see that this marque is often on sale in the
N
Much good advice; thanks. I don't reject laptops; in fact all else equal, a
laptop would be nice for the occasional time when portability would be
convenient. But I really want enough to keep 6 Word documents, 4 with
somewhat sophisticated formatting, and 4 PDF documents, open and usable at
the
That is *exactly* what I'm thinking for the shifter. True, it's a movement
of hand away from handlebar to rotate gear selector, but it could be
reachable with either hand, and gosh, it wasn't so long ago that riders
reached down below the fork crown to shift gears.
Magic gear? Oh, you mean
I'd like a 2 screen arrangement, too, which I assume one can rig with a
laptop. I do need a largish screen, though because of my layout work. A
daresay a 15 would be fine, but 2 separate 17-19
screens would be better.
I would like to see a Mac (and Wintel what, the heck!) program that would
Plus 3 for Bob. He built my incredible Chicken and is fixing up my wrecked
57cm Hilsen. His waitlist looks to be a few months long, which when you
think about it is pretty short.
And he makes a mean skillet.
On Thu, Dec 11, 2014 at 8:52 AM, Curtis McKenzie cmcy...@gmail.com wrote:
Plus two for
Link
http://theincidentaleconomist.com/wordpress/argh-bike-safety-edition-also-i-dont-get-how-we-make-policy-sometimes/
One of my favorite blogs for health economics turned to bike safety today:
This was a controlled trial of putting permanent (daytime) running lights
on bicycles. It was
I’m looking at getting a Hilsen soon (probably 58cm 650b) and I want to go
friction only shifting with Silver Shifter bar ends (probably on Albas). I
decided on Riv’s Sugino 46-36-24 triple up front. From everything I have
read, 8 speed is the way to go for friction, and 8 is enough for me.
Dude, it's your eyes. Don't be half-assed. Optometrists will have a UV
meter, which is the only way you can be sure the glasses are blocking UV.
And try them on in person so you know they fit.
jim m
wc ca
On Wednesday, December 10, 2014 7:06:06 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
Does anyone have
I think your component choices all sound lovely. Go ahead and think about
trying an Altus rear derailer. I haven't done that yet, but I have
absolutely gotten to the opinion that when you are friction shifting,
expensive derailers are really overrated. Cheap works great!
Flopping the
I have a big noggin, and it definitely matters what size shades I buy. I
don't play when it comes to something I wear all the time, so I spend the
money on nice Oakleys. I'm not Asian, but Asian fit Oakleys work best for
me..I currently use Race Jackets for cycling, Two Face for driving and
I've been using Macs at home since the early aughts, but I use a Windows
one at work every day. One thing that I will begrudgingly admit is that the
MS Office interface on Windows 7 is far superior to its Mac equivalent. In
fact, I've never had much luck running Office (and Word in particular)
Agree with Bill on all points. Rivendell' recommended components
work'n'play well together. To your concern about using the 34 cog only
with the 24 ring, you may be favorably impressed with how well the 8 tooth
jump from the 26 to 34 works. A 36 middle ring with a 34 cog will get you
up a
For me, swapping the pulleys made a world of difference. I'm on the 9-speed
though. I'd have to look up the numbers, but the range I have is the same
as your's in the rear and in the front is Riv's standard triple set up. I
love the 34 in the rear, as I can stay in the middle front ring for 90%
John:
Thanks for posting. That surely gives one pause for thought. I've used my
headlight's flashing mode in low light conditions, but never really knew
how effective this was.
dougP
On Thursday, December 11, 2014 12:59:28 PM UTC-8, John L wrote:
Link
I've had good luck with Sunclouds. They're a sub-brand of Smith, the lens
quality is really good, and they tend to be pretty light and comfortable in
my opinion. I don't really trust the UV protection on the cheap knockoffs.
REI sells them, as well as lots of internet vendors.
On Wednesday,
Looking to trade my salsa vaya framset plus extras for any riv frame of equal
value. Old and beat up is even better. What's included:
Salsa vaya 52 frame and fork (has some wear and tear from adventure rides but
no dings
Headset
Salsa stem
FSA riser handlebars new
Deore shifters
Front tourney
Hi everyone,
I have a set of Bullmoose bars on my Proto-Hunq and would like to switch to
either Boscos or Albatross. If you'd like to trade lemme know. Longshot but
worth a try.
I'd ideally prefer Bullmooose Bosco's but the widest regular ones or
Albatross would be great too if you have a
Get another opinion , truly .Just because someone says jump . . . .
. . gotta trust thySelf .
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Bizarre that a derailer company would design the pulleys that don't
function optimally in their original orientation.
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Couldn't you just swap cartridge holders from the long ones that come with
the Pauls to the shorter road ones found on the CX70's? I've done that
in the past and been able to clear the fork blades and seat stays.
Gabe
On Thursday, December 11, 2014 10:31:05 AM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
My headlights are *always* on.
Taillight especially. I was struck how visible one small red LED can make
you even in the daylight.
Be safe out there.
On Thu, Dec 11, 2014 at 2:33 PM, dougP dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
John:
Thanks for posting. That surely gives one pause for thought. I've
i have some IRDs i could trade you
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They do operate optimally for index shifting, where some wiggle helps
apparently. It doesn't help with friction shifting though.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Thursday, December 11, 2014 5:22:18 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
Bizarre that a derailer company would design the pulleys that don't
The derailer company designed the derailer to work properly with indexed
shifting systems. That's what more than 90% of their customers use...so no
mystery there. Wobbly upper pulleys work best with indexed shifters. It is
only the small, deeply disturbed minority using friction shifters who
No the road length pads don't do it. I run those frequently. Your former
Atlantis has the road length cartridges on Tektro CR720s right now. It's
not a problem now that I have 38s on there, but if I decide to run 45s,
there's no way I'll get the wheels off without deflating the tires.
On
Thanks, but I don't think IRDs will get me any farther out than Pauls.
On Thursday, December 11, 2014 5:20:44 PM UTC-8, bo richardson wrote:
i have some IRDs i could trade you
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I got the brakes set up on my new/old Atlantis. I've gone with Tektro
CR720s for now. I did a fun modification on one of the new old stock
Suntour GPX brakelevers. I slotted the bottom side of the metal body of
the brakelever so the barcon shift housing routes through the brakelever
and
Evening, group. Anyone here (1) run a Phil cassette hub on their Riv, and
(2) come to find the cassette does not release or install onto the hub body
without significant force/wrangling/finagling involved? It's really
bizarre. I have a Phil cassette hub on my Hilsen and I have this issue.
Cygo lights always on - easy to recharge from 24A-h battery.
On Thursday, December 11, 2014 7:09:20 PM UTC-6, Christopher Chen wrote:
My headlights are *always* on.
Taillight especially. I was struck how visible one small red LED can make
you even in the daylight.
Be safe out there.
1) GPX levers are my favorite. Nice work.
2) Random: Is that your final(-ish) saddle height? If so, what's the tale
of the tape?
Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA
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My SH is 75.5cm. As pictured is really close.
On Thursday, December 11, 2014 8:14:28 PM UTC-8, sameness wrote:
1) GPX levers are my favorite. Nice work.
2) Random: Is that your final(-ish) saddle height? If so, what's the tale
of the tape?
Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA
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On Dec 11, 2014, at 9:49 PM, David davidboydle...@gmail.com wrote:
Evening, group. Anyone here (1) run a Phil cassette hub on their Riv, and
(2) come to find the cassette does not release or install onto the hub body
without significant force/wrangling/finagling involved? It's really
Jim, I couldn't agree more. It is your EYES! Patrick, you already had
cataract surgery so you know your eyes are vulnerable. Protect them!
By-the-way, your replacement lens implants have UV protection built in.
Your primary focus now should be wind, dust and general debris protection.
You Rivfolks do some long distance rando riding, touring, campling, etc...
What's the best way to plan a long ride like this from Baltimore, MD to
Scranton, PA?
Any east coasters know some bike friendly routes?
I've only done a few centuriesin the last year and a half, so don't know if
I
Front derailer? Whaddya need that for?
Living the 1x8 dream,
Edwin
ps - I am going to switch to drops on my Hillborne this winter. Can you
swing by Nashville and tape up my bars?
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deeply disturbed..ha! That's funny.
1. *I use Silver bar ends on my Blue 2013 Sam* with the stock RBW build of
the time Deore front derailer and Deore rear derailer, both, with a
non-stock 8-speed Hyperglide cassette, that I got from the RBW site and
everything works great. I do get some auto
Bumping up and trying again...
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