Reflective housing is a cool idea.
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So, I think this would work (although the Sheldon calculator has no 584
wheel size, I used 27" nominal as option):
24/40 with an (11-13-15-18-21-24-28-34) 8-speed cassette would give me the
ratios I need. That is like all the ratios of my current middle and outer
rings combined with similar
Can one do these Just eat and ketogenics and still eat Indian food?
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If it was you fess up!
Black/dark bike? Basket on front with a shopsack type bag and a sackville on
back.
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Yes. You can do any rides on a Rivendell.
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I saw a betty on a century once. Only betty sighting for me.
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PS- Will I have to change my derailers, too?
I have a Microshift triple derailer up front and a SUNXCD in the back with
a long jockey arm on it.
This may get too expensive for little benefit.
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History:
I use a 26-36-46 up front right now
I use a 13-30 7-speed cassette in back (avoids autoshifts with friction
that way).
Bleriot. 135mm d'outs in the back.
This enables 95% of the hills I ride without dropping to the granny ring.
But sometimes I must use it. Happy to do so, too.
I ain't
Thanks for the heads up.
Nice deals for sure on some of that stuff.
If the rear hub didn't need a spacer for 7 speed I woulda bought it.
I also like that it can be taken apart with no tools.
4 bearings, three pawls. Sounds nice.
50$ for a leather sprung saddle??? Nice. Honey. Skived, sprung,
>From the RBW website:
"*NOTE: If you have the bad habit of storing your bike outside, Do Not Do
It!* Bring that bike inside, please! Your trusty little bike and all it's
metal parts are corroding little by little by being stored outside, exposed
to the mist, dew, fog, rain, snow, elements."
No problem, Rene. Have a great ride! Also, I forgot to mention to try to
rest the day before the ride. Don't ride the day before. Let the legs
recharge.
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How hilly is the ride? I was nervous before my first 62 mile ride. It
turned out to be way easier than I ever thought it would be.
I don't do low carb riding or diets, but here are a few general long ride
tips:
1. *Keep it in perspective*: If *there is SAG*, there is nothing to worry
about.
Update:
Its not the bb. Its the freehub body squeaks as it rotates against the hub
where they contact each other on the outside when i walk the bike backwards
slowly or turn the cranks backwards by hand slowly.
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Sounds good!
Do they rust?
Are they alot heavier than alu rings?
They even say that when they wear out you can flip them and keep riding for
another lifespan?
I am surprised Rivendell doesnt sell steel chainrings.
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That pic was from when it was new
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You have any:
110x36 middle silver
110x46 outer silver?
Need for my triple crank.
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I am guessing my Sam and Bleriot have similar mileages but the Sam's xd2 rings
look better than the xd600 rings on the Bleriot.
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Is it possiblt to finagle the middel and big rings off without having to pop
the crank?
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Im thinking put the new one on the back. The front still has file tread on it.
Not worn off yet. And I can see it better to monitor. So with the new one on
the back maybe they will wear down at the same time and can get a new set at
once.
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Ill have to go back and check some of my old ride tecords and mileages. My mind
may have just stopped tracking miles after I hit 3k on the bikes. I havent had
a computer on either bike since early 2016 either.
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Similar mileage
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My XD2 on the Sam has about the same and still looks good, too.
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Third chain on last week.
Im pribably about 80-90 cadence. No foot retention. I live in rolling terrain.
170lbs.
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But I think I only have 3k miles on them.
If they go bad that fast, what better options are there to put on the xd600
cranks that will last longer?
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Upon rotating my crank arms by hand slowly and gently backwards I hear a
squeak sound like the low squak sound of rubbing a balloon until I increase
the speed, then it goes away.
They spin fine, no crunchy sounds. no play.
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Main concern is getting the crank arm back on tight enough. How do you know? Is
there a torque spec for square taper cranks?
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So for my Sugino XD600 crank and my Shimano square taper bb spindle I just
need this, an allen wrench, and a chain ring bolt wrench to get the job
done?
http://www.parktool.com/product/crank-puller-for-square-taper-cranks-ccp-22?category=Crank
& Bottom Bracket
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It is a Compass Loup Loup pass standard casing tire...maybe I'll give it
through the weekend, and if it doesn't flat and require a field repair I
will just replace it.
Or, I could just do it now and cut it in half to see how close I got for
future reference.
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Juust starting to see a hint of shark toothing on my Sugino middle ring
and big ring...
Noticing that dropping from the big ring onto the middle ring with my brand
new chain hesitates sometimes, like the big ring goes around 1/2 turn
before releasing it...jammed once into the derailer body
Sorry, I mean is it safe to ride until the *casing* starts peeking through
the tread...
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Rear tire on Bleriot. Tread bald down center for a while now. Front tire
still has plenty of tread.
I inspect the tire every few rides.
*Is it safe to ride down 'til the tread just barely starts showing? To the
first peek of tan color? Or is the tire gonna rip open at that point and
better to
Easier thought than done.
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If you are going to be bar end friction shifting I recommend 7- or 8- speed
cassettes. Less autoshifting.
I run 7-speed cassettes on both my Rivendells.
I went from brifters to bar ends and I loved bar ends at first shift. For some
reason I find them more fun to use than brifters.
Perhaps it
Are those really your kids' names?
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So how is the DT beam different than the NT beam? Lux? Angle that it hits the
road? Why is the DT mode more noticeable to drivers in daytime than NT mode,
which I am guessing would be full 100 lux?
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Are they better than salmon Kool Stops and salmon Yokuzuna?
Scroll down to see the blue wet weather pads:
http://www.swissstop.com/tech/compounds/bxp/
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Thanks. two more questions:
1.Just push on the crank and tighten like Mark does? No need to worry about
torque spec? It will settle in the original place on the spindle? Only
reason I mention that is because I think one of the Randonneurs on this
forum said he messed up his spindle by
Is there anything else I need to know?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=09NxISvfHwE
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So as twilight progresses, have you ever felt it wasn't clicking over to
night mode in time for your eyes?
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I rode the Snow Hill Seagull century ride and it was the quieter route
with less attendance and pacelines. Highly recommended to anyone wanting to
try the Seagull, if it is still the same. The Assateague Seagull course was
scarier. Much more crowded on the roads and more pacelines.
I know
This is the light:
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/ltd-17.htm
Trying to understand the auto modes on this light before buying.
Sounds like it has a daylight mode that is always on, but then the night
mode comes on automatically.
Correct?
Does the bright night mode come on while riding in
Trying to understand the auto modes on this light before buying.
Sounds like it has a daylight mode that is always on, but then the night
mode comes on automatically.
Correct?
Does the bright night mode come on while riding in overcast/rain, or only
at night? Is the day mode bright enough for
1. I am thinking of getting the RBW Silver rings as they are designed to go
right on the Sugino cranksets. So, for users, are they really a direct
replacement and go on well with no trouble?
I like that I can get them one tooth less than what I have now for a little
lighter gearing, without
No drafting allowed in RAAM.
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I know it must be fun to gain the speed of a paceline. But one cannot say they
finished the ride under ones own steam.
Racers understandably use plines. But I dont get randonneurs using pacelines
though. Comeradery. But seems it flies in the face of the self sufficiency
ethic.
Ill admit that
New to the supple tube zeitgeist and was wondering:
1. Really?!?! First supple tires and now supple tubes? ;)
2. Is their any research on safety of butyl vs. latex? Specifically with flats
resulting in catastrophic tears? Like does a simple puncture in latex develop
into a blowout tear faster
Sprung saddle sounds like it would be standard for stoker.
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Thanks for the ideas, everyone. If it doesn't settle in this week I will
investigate further.
I don't think it is a frame or DO or derailer alignment issue as everything
ran perfectly with the old setup. But I will look into those things if it
doesn't settle in.
I didn't torque with a torque
I dont temember the model. Only know what the salesman said.
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I am just guessing, based on the report that at my LBS they say that their
model can get up to 40mph inside their parking lot. I don't think too many
humans could get a bike going that fast in such a short distance based on
leg power. So I was deducing the possibility of acute strain on
...which makes me wonder, if a german vendor can sell for $75, what was
their cost to buy from manufacturer? Let's say 50$. Then is that the US
vendors' cost, too?
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As of today, bike24 has that new B IQX 100 lux light for $75.34USD (67.14
euros, no VAT because coming to USA) (before shipping and any duty/tax).
USA vendors are charging 140-something, iirc before shipping.
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The only concerns I would have with continuing with the eClemming are:
1. That battery looks heavy. Might make it easy to pop unwanted wheelies.
2. If you plan to keep running this e-version of a Clem, maybe call RBW to
confirm that it will not void your un-warranty. With the recent blug post
Oh it definitely means controlling the lane so no one can pass, too. I just
mean that for my comment above, "take the lane" just means to stay in the
lane and not on the shoulder. I should have used a different phrase for
clarity.
Nice call to contact the club riders' president, Steve. Any
When I sat take the lane I don't mean to block the lane, I just mean don't
ride on the shoulder but ride inside the lane, even if just to the left of
the fog line (on USA roads). Just as long as you are in the lane and not on
the shoulder.
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Taking the lane can mean riding in the lane, but to the right, even just to
the left of the fog line (on USA roads).
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*Take that lane! Just take it! :)*
If there are no cars, I'm riding in the lane, unless it is a huge shoulder
in good condition. So I would have kept my lane on a road with a tiny
shoulder, and the peloton could go around or follow behind. They can choose
which to do based on *being
Very cool.
Looks like fun.
My wife wants an ebike for her next bike.
A Ricendell with Copenhagen wheel would be cool. Rivendell could just sell
Copenhagen wheels on their site. But they are very expensive.
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Installed on the bike were:
Cassette
Chain
4.5mm spacer
Lube
Grease for cassette lock ring.
No wobble in cassette/cogs and chain runs good through derailers. Friction
only Silver Shifters, D-rings tightened up and in place well. 135mm
dropouts. All cogs, except smallest are riveted together, so
Yes, both cassette and chain were bought new, sealed in their boxes, from
Harris Cyclery.
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I thought about chainline, but as I don't know anything about that, I
thought there is nothing I can do about it except change the bb, I guess,
and I'm not ready for that yet.
Isn't cross-chaining a form of artificially messing up the chainline?
Usually the bike crosschains with no probs.
I
I put a 7-speed cassette with SRAM 8 speed chain on my Sam and it has been
perfect. XD treble cranks, deore derailers, silver bar ends.
So I went ahead and did the same on my Bleriot. It had an 8 speed cassette
before. Same model chain before, so I know the derailers handle it fine.
Similar
A likely story.
A) What were you doing with a car at RBW headquarters? Just doesn't add up.
B) If there was nothing earth shattering, then you clearly couldn't have
been at RBW.
C) Noone leaves an image capturing device behind when entering RBW.
But seriously, thanks for the intel, Bill. I am
Thanks for posting. Great way to see the countryside. Never been there
before. That downhill at 9:25 looked fun.
How much of it would you say you rode alone?
How many riders were there?
Did you use an edeluxe I headlight?
The beam on my edeluxe ii light doesn't even show up on video.
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Interesting story. I know a guy who was a bike messenger in Baltimore back
in the '80's. Funny how we lose our fun and freedom in bike riding.
I am in the Baltimore area. Howard County.
I recently lost my cycling computer and didn't buy another. Using
my Funometer is much better.
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I wash with ecover and dry flat. So far they haven't shrunk from what I can
tell. I like the ease of movement with the larger sizes.
It is funny because, as small a person as I am I don't see how anyone fits
into a small or medium size bike short. Even when I first started cycling
and bought
Trimmed my pitlock skewer and almost couldnt get the nut back on. Took a while
to get the threads going again. Scary. But all is well.
Any advice how to do this without distorting the threads so I get better
results next time?
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Do not walk, but run to your computer and get them while you can. I love
their tights and 3/4 tights. So comfortable and soft and *unrestricted*
movement.
Did all my distance riding in them during the last year. Pads are
fantastic, too. But I guess that is personal.
I got them on sale, too,
I know some of you buy from EU and Japanese vendors. Some products are
waaayy less expensive if bought from them and the shipping seems
reasonable. But how can you tell if you will have to pay duty/VAT fees and
what they will be?
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I used mks steel medium deep toeclips -no straps on my MKS touring pedals for a
while.
But I like riding without the clips better. Since 2013 I have done all my
riding on just the bare MKS touring pedals -no clips or straps. Just free.
I have done centuries and one 200k brevet with just the
Thats what the instructions say.
But I greased mine so heavily, that upon first removal and remounting of the
wheel, there was still so much grease on the skewer that I didnt bother.
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They say you must grease the threads upon each use.
They say you should tighten by hand, then 1-1.5 turns after that with tool.
But I usually can't even get it 1 turn.
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This reminds me of something that happened to me when I finished up a perm
pop here in Maryland. I entered the final controle (that's fancy-speak for
"gas station").
I rolled my bike into the door and up to the counter, nervously explaining
to the customers that I brought it in with me
This reminds me of something that happened to me when I finished up a perm
piop here in Maryland. I was in a dicey looking area, and entered the final
controle (that's fancy-speak for "gas station").
I rolled my bike into the door and up to the counter, nervously explaining
t the customers that
Eeeewww!
Just kidding.
I think I remember using WD40, which took the stuff right off, followed by
alcohol just to get it sparkling clean.
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Specific tool is near impossible to find in stores or online, unless 60$+ bucks.
What do you all use as alternatives?
Or must one order the tool online?
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UPDATE:
I slapped on the spacer and cassette. Wobble in the cassette. Spacer must
be filed out to clear cassette rivets, or rivets must be removed so spacer
will sit flush to freehub and cassette.
So I hand filed the 4.5mm spacer in three areas with a round file,
making three little dome
Thanks Anton,
The 1/4 inch hole for the wires is in *addition t*o the two mounting holes
that need to be drilled for the Pixeo light?
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Decided to install it on my rear Honjo fender. Running wires from edeluxe
II hanging headlight.
I have Schmidt SON wiring. I know how to wire it up on the headlight end.
My questions are about wiring to the tail light.
*Wiring on the Spanninga light side:*
1. After I separate the ground
Which is better, and why? Diffs?
I have Honjos (~150$) on my Bleriot, but 150$ is a lot of money, compared
to ~67$ for VO's, if I ever want to replace the SKS on my Sam with metal
fenders.
I have seen a famous blogger (not Grant) sort of, but not so obviously,
refer to VO stuff as "budget",
I like the new color and fork version way better than the first version.
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Very Nice, Michael!
Wow!
Bilenky tandem with cantis!
I like that the straddle cable is below rack level. Keeps it tidy looking that
way.
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Might as well put a front rack on the bike and attach front of fender to it.
You can carry stuff on the rack and hang a light on it to boot.
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State your case.
Trying to lighten my front bag load. My bag is heavy with all the stuff I bring
on rides. I am wondering which is lighter, multi tools or carrying loose?
I usually carry loose open wrenches 8,10mm, a multi tool (with
allens/flat/phillips,chain tool, spoke wrenches,torx) and a
You can get them direct from Sigma's US web store.
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Looks like it also works with cantis/centerpulls and V brakes, too. Replace
the rubber thingy on the cable after it comes out of the noodle on V
brakes. Put it on the main cable before it reaches the straddle thingy on a
canti brake or centerpull.
The instructions are just pics.
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I used a drill for my Berthoud bag
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Everything about bikes is getting expensive, except maybe cables and tail
lights.
Sometimes I feel like we are being taken for a ride.
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Congrats on the 200k. Sounds like fun!
Never heard of a 2xTT Rambouillet before.
How bout some pics of yours?
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Just saw it this morning. http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/f-roadeo-wsf4.htm
Not crazy about the crankset, but RBW sure does pick out nice looking and
working stuff to put on their bikes. Stuff that doesn't break the bank,
either, which is the best part. Sometimes when I am looking for parts I
Looks like, based on their page they only make the Kojak as a 650b slick.
But I'm confused about the weight. The description says 200-something, the
list line says 400-something. Looks like it is puncture protected, too.
On Friday, May 6, 2016 at 4:49:17 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Si
Since we were talking about Marathons vs. supple tires, I was wondering
this. I saw an Instagram pic with a Cheviut with a tire that looks slick
and a Schwalbe because it had the reflective strip on it but not sure.
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I ran 650b x 44 Marathons on my Sam when I first got it and loved them. If
I again wanted a fantastic riding, puncture protected tire, I would think
of getting them. They are excellent tires.
I eventually tried 650b GB Hetres and Compass Tires. Here are my
impressions, as best as I can
Clayton,
You can still get hit. Drivers don't need to see you to hit you. If they
are texting or something and drift onto the shoulder where you are riding
they can run into you. Whether they were looking at/for you or not. Even if
you have no lighting/reflectivity on. Pedestrians get hit,
That would definitely be helpful if following someone on a twisty descent
at night.
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I'll also have to make sure it doesn't annoy cyclists who ride behind me.
Though that is rare since I am a slow poke.
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I read a BQ article that discussed the uncertainty of using more or less
lighting and reflectivity while bike riding in order to be safer and more
easily seen on the road.
At first thought, more would make sense being safer, but the article talked
about more, or the type of
Sigma makes one that lights up when you hit the rear brake. I wonder if drivers
and cyclists will understand that it is a brake light and indicates that the
cyclist is braking. I'd think it good to still call out and hand signal until
bike brake lights become ubiquitous, if they eventually do.
BQ says that lots of rim wells are too deep, resulting in the tire bead not
being able to ride up the sidewall of the rim and sit in place at the clincher
part.
It is reported that a slipperier rim tape like stans helps, too, so the bead
doesnt get hung up in son a grippier more frictiony tape
Wow! Very creative, Dave!
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