[RBW] Re: Crank Design

2013-06-03 Thread Jeremy Till
It's my understanding that modern front derailleurs have relatively wide cages to allow for a greater range of chain angles without rubbing the chain, which leads to clearance issues with older, narrow-Q cranks. Perhaps using a vintage derailleur of some kind might help? -jeremy On Monday,

[RBW] Re: Crank Design

2013-06-03 Thread William
Jeremy is right. You could try to squish the outer cage of your FD or get one that has a flatter outer cage to start with. Old front derailers are a dime a dozen, so you should be able to try lots of things on the cheap. My mid 80s Stumpjumper has a Deore deer head front der and that same

Re: [RBW] Re: Crank Design

2013-06-03 Thread PATRICK MOORE
The test case for such a narrow gap is the old TA Pro 5 Vis -- I hear that the new ones have a wider gap. I have an old one on the Ram and use an old 7400 Dura Ace FD, which works fine. The downside, such as it is, is that, at least with the small gap on the TA, it requires great precision in fd

Re: [RBW] Re: Crank Design

2013-06-03 Thread Eric Norris
I'm running a Velo Orange Grand Cru 50.4BCD crankset with a single chainring (http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/cranksets/grand-cru-50-4bcd-crankset-mkii.html) on my Quickbeam, and I'm at a loss to see how it would work if there was a derailleur in the mix. Even an old-style

Re: [RBW] Re: Crank Design

2013-06-03 Thread Ron Mc
Patrick, guess I got lucky with my Cyclotouriste. Never had a hitch with it, with a Shimano 600EX FD. I did have to change my bottom bracket to get the chainline (to get the escape gear to clear the chainstay), and I used the SK 126mm. Everything dialed right in on the first try, and never

Re: [RBW] Re: Crank Design

2013-06-03 Thread Ron Mc
I was able to run the FD really snug, with half step chainrings, 46/41, which was a nice combination on a 6-speed rear. The thin TA 144 bcd chainrings added significant gap. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/aPC310011_zpse51abc77.jpg My daughter is about to build up

Re: [RBW] Re: Crank Design

2013-06-03 Thread PATRICK MOORE
My setup is made easier because I am running only 7 cogs with spacers at front and back. (Segue: with a spacer just behind the lockring, you can use any size cog as the outer. I plan to build a 18-20-22-24-27-30-34 six speed to use with a 53 t inner. Just kidding, but the 14-23 is great.) Even

Re: [RBW] Re: Crank Design

2013-06-03 Thread PATRICK MOORE
It's satisfactory now and, frankly, even tho' my gears (44/30 X 14-15-16-17-18-20-23) give me between 85 and 35, most of my riding is in the middle cogs (60-64-70-74 is such a lovely progression), so chain rub is far less of even a potential issue. Putting 10 cogs on would definitely make

Re: [RBW] Re: Crank Design

2013-06-03 Thread Ron Mc
part of it is the 173mm Raleigh BB housing. But yes, I put half steps with escape 47/42/26 - again, with 13-27 rear. My daughter and I were climbing 9-degree switchbacks a few weeks ago, and and both 26 gears which were very handy. On Monday, June 3, 2013 6:23:33 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore

Re: [RBW] Re: Crank Design

2013-06-03 Thread Nick Worthington
The VO 50.4 MK1 is a tight fit, which is apparently why they came out with the MK2. I'm currently running my MK1, in 28/48, with the Microshift braze-on FD. Was running it with an old Suntour vX. Tolerance with both is tight - a few ratchet clicks either way - but the Microshift is holding