My reaction is not the same. The seatpost/seat-tube junction is not an uncommon
problem area in bicycles. I've seen the problem enough to give any company the
benefit of the doubt on it. Yes, they shouldn't see it as tolerable, and
Waterford shouldn't repeatedly make a mistake, but I know Riv
Thanks for posting this additional bit of information. I'm not surprised,
given the reputation of RBW for supporting customers after the sale but
it's good to see it verified.
Having said that, if there have been multiple Hunq's with this problem,
then maybe RBW needs to rethink their QC
Riv always tries to make good on their products. Some small details can be
a bit disappointing but I always forget about that stuff when I go for a
ride on one of my Rivendell's.
Bruce in San DIego
On Sat, May 2, 2015 at 8:12 AM, Kevin Lindsey lindsey.ke...@gmail.com
wrote:
This wasn't
This wasn't acceptable to Rivendell. I left out this part of the story,
but maybe I shouldn't have: Keven and the others at Rive were all over me
to send the frame back or otherwise tell them what I needed to get this
issue resolved. As readers of this forum understand, there's probably no
Thanks for the additional info. That sound much more like the Rivendell I know.
Chris
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Ron,
On the old Rovers to which I'm referring, the steel chassis we're painted, and
the steel body cappings were galvanized; the zinc coating was much closer to
aluminum and wouldn't suffer galvanic corrosion. But on locations where a
non-galvanized steel bracket was riveted to the aluminum
Wow!! I don't understand how this is acceptable by either Waterford or
Rivendell. I would want a new bike and I don't feel like I should have to ask
or insist... Rivendell should be insisting on delivering a defect free product
not making half-assed solution suggestions. I have owned 4
Maybe it was locally concentrated ferric chloride from corrosion of the
steel in salt, but there is insufficient galvanic difference between steel
and aluminum to cause galvanic corrosion. Leslie, this is my profession
and what pays for my bicycles.
On Friday, May 1, 2015 at 9:21:17 AM
On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 10:46:21 AM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
again, the galvanic difference between aluminum and steel is insufficient
to promote galvanic corrosion - the occurrence is a bike shop myth. You
don't need a barrier between the two metals, but a barrier between the
metal
Hi Keith.
Thanks again for the excellent work, and I'm still amazed by the
coincidence that you also are a Hunqapillar owner.
I just passed the hundred mile mark on the Hunq this morning, and the
seatpost remains firmly in place. The dirtiest experience was also this
morning - the CO canal
Kevin,
I'm glad to hear that what I did to your Hunq seemed to fix the problem.
Let me know if you have any other issues. Did you find a replacement bolt
and nut for the seat cluster. Hopefully you've had a chance to get your
new bike dirty!
Best,
Keith
On Monday, April 27, 2015 at
Ron,
On the old Rovers to which I'm referring, the steel chassis we're painted, and
the steel body cappings were galvanized; the zinc coating was much closer to
aluminum and wouldn't suffer galvanic corrosion. But on locations where a
non-galvanized steel bracket was riveted to the aluminum
I found out by sheer accident that Frame Saver in the seat tube in
contact with the seatpost make it very difficult to move ! I have Salsa
Shaft(matte finish black) on the Bombadil and it is really long , so long
that it came in contact with the Frame Saver I had applied in the ST . I
My Sam's post did the same thing. I used a snap punch to create a grid
of punches about a centimeter wide in the area of the clamp. Punches were
about 2-3 mm apart. After a bit of sanding with some fine sandpaper the fit
got just about perfect. I wound up with some of the scratching exposed, not
On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 12:08:37 AM UTC-4, hangtownmatt wrote:
For as long as I can remember, grease has been applied to seat posts to
prevent corrosion that WILL fuse the seat post to the seat tube. Am I the
only one who thinks it is a mistake to eliminate grease from this
My Gunnars are three for three on slipping seat posts (and also 3/3 on
chipping paint). I'm not overwhelmed by Waterford's quality.
Dear Eric,
Interesting. I've not messed with Gunnars, but I've built up/owned eight
waterford-built products since 1998 (a Heron, two lugged road bikes, four
No offense, Matt outdoor weathering neglect is the only thing that will
fuse a seatpost and seat tube by corrosion. Galvanic corrosion between
aluminum and steel is a myth, and in fact, lithium in grease is great for
steel in resisting corrosion, but Bad for aluminum. If you need something
“chaperone nightmare” made me laugh!
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2015 10:18 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost
The anti slip build paste we use takes the place
again, the galvanic difference between aluminum and steel is insufficient
to promote galvanic corrosion - the occurrence is a bike shop myth. You
don't need a barrier between the two metals, but a barrier between the
metal surface and condensation.
On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 9:18:17 AM
whatever seals out the weather solves the weathering corrosion problem
On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 9:46:21 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
again, the galvanic difference between aluminum and steel is insufficient
to promote galvanic corrosion - the occurrence is a bike shop myth. You
don't
The anti slip build paste we use takes the place of grease and creates a
barrier between the metals. For lack of better explanation, it's like
grease with sand in it. I agree that completely bare metals dancing too
close is a chaperone nightmare.
On Tuesday, April 28, 2015 at 10:08:37 PM
And the fool says in their heart, there is no Perfection.
On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 4:22:53 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
On 04/27/2015 04:12 PM, Garth wrote:
On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 3:43:50 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
No, the first and simplest thing to try is to
The used Toyo Atlantis I picked up had a supposedly Riv installed shim... Thin
aluminum. It was trimmed so you didn't really notice if but I always thought
it was of. Pretty sure that frame had a brazed on rear cable hanger.
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god said the path to perfection is wide, for perfection is an affront to the
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Stay pure, don't try too hard
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For as long as I can remember, grease has been applied to seat posts to
prevent corrosion that WILL fuse the seat post to the seat tube. Am I the
only one who thinks it is a mistake to eliminate grease from this contact
point?
Matt
On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 7:17:04 AM UTC-7, Kevin Lindsey
Actually, not meaning to muddy the waters here, but both of the Nitto
binder-bolt mounted cable hangers that Riv sells interfered with seatpost
clamping on my Bombadil. I fixed it by switching to Surly's cable hanger.
Could also just use a smaller-diameter bolt. Is it worth a try to go around
My favorite Steve Palinscar game! I'll play:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3uRX8Buu88
On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 1:22:53 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
On 04/27/2015 04:12 PM, Garth wrote:
On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 3:43:50 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
No, the first
On 04/27/2015 04:28 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
My favorite Steve Palinscar game! I'll play:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3uRX8Buu88
Good one! Glad it's working for you. :-)
My Evil Twin PalinSCar played no role in this...
On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 1:22:53 PM UTC-7, Steve
Kevin
I have several thoughts on this. First and foremost, I will agree with the
several responders who said you deserve to be happy and frustration-free on
your new bike. Now, here's a checklist.
1. Tolerances. As others have said, you can measure the seatpost and the
hole in the frame
On 04/27/2015 04:12 PM, Garth wrote:
On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 3:43:50 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
No, the first and simplest thing to try is to wipe all the grease off
the seat post. The second and almost as simple thing is to spray
a shot
of hairspray on the seat
Snap! What Bill said...
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Please please pretty please, check if you can tighten it with the cable
hanger removed. I'm going to have nightmares if you don't check that.
Regarding knurling. This is the tool that any decent shop should have:
http://1mg.me/?w=300h=300filename=JS0115.jpgf=BTI
If they have that tool, the
On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 3:43:50 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
No, the first and simplest thing to try is to wipe all the grease off
the seat post. The second and almost as simple thing is to spray a shot
of hairspray on the seat post. I have a couple of bikes that have the
Bill et al. -
The seatpost is only just barely too loose. Honestly, I think a tin
can shim might be too thick to fit in there, but the difference between the
post outer diameter and the tube inner diameter is enough to make the post
gradually slide down the tube as I ride.
So: first
Yes, the Surly one is the thinnest. The aluminum cheap ones are the
thickest and the least reliable in part to part variation.
On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 12:42:47 PM UTC-7, Tom Harrop wrote:
Snap! What Bill said...
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On 04/27/2015 03:14 PM, Garth wrote:
After reading your replies Kevin, a new seatpost would be the first
and simplest thing to try.
No, the first and simplest thing to try is to wipe all the grease off
the seat post. The second and almost as simple thing is to spray a shot
of hairspray on
I had the same problem with my Sam.
I used a piece of aluminum shim stock or you could use a piece of coke can
trimmed about 1 wide x the circumference of the post. .Also there are
collars out there that you can put around your seat post to keep it from
slipping..
Worst case scenario is to
My Moser was so bad about this I found an old Campy Super Record quill post
and solved the problem. One possible approach you might take is use Green
Loctite (609)
On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 9:17:04 AM UTC-5, Kevin Lindsey wrote:
Just finished building my Hunqapillar over the weekend and
I've heard quite a few comments about Gunnar's having problems with
slipping seatposts.
This seems like an unacceptable level of QC on Waterford's part and on
Rivendell's part. If they know a percentage of a batch of Hunq's from
Wisconsin are out of spec, they need to be pulling every one
My Gunnars are three for three on slipping seat posts (and also 3/3 on
chipping paint). I'm not overwhelmed by Waterford's quality.
My Surly Cross Check's post has never slipped (and the powder cost still
looks great after six years)
On Mon, Apr 27, 2015 at 6:30 PM, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW
Isn't it nice to go into a roadie or mtb thrasher shop and discover
that the crew love your old bikes? I'm glad that the problem was so easily
solved (and that it seems not to be a frame quality problem).
There is a high end bike shop a couple of miles from my mother's house
which I used to
Amazing story.
And now as you get the joy of the Hunqapillar without that one irritation. I
predict your fun on the bike quickly makes this whole topic vanish.
My theory is that that's why the slipping seatpost thing often gets a pass.
Anytime I've had it, solutions came quickly, and then I
Problem resolved (for now).
The seatpost refusing to cooperate on my commute home, I stopped at Bike
Pro, a very high-end bike shop in Georgetown at the foot of Key Bridge, to
see if they had any friction paste that would at least hold the post in
place until I got home. Mind you, this is one
My Rockhound is a touch loose as well. I have to really crank down the
collar till the ears are touching. And paint is chippy.
On Mon, Apr 27, 2015 at 5:46 PM, Eric Daume ericda...@gmail.com wrote:
My Gunnars are three for three on slipping seat posts (and also 3/3 on
chipping paint). I'm not
Have you called someone at Riv who knows the ins and outs of these frames
like Mark about this ?
You may be able to file down the hanger you have very slightly to reduce
it's thickness, if this is possible . I don't know which one they use and
how thick it is so take this suggestion
I plan to call Riv as soon as they open. Given that this is a stock frame,
and that I'm using a stock hanger and the seat post they recommend, I'm
hoping that it's not a mechanical problem, but something I'm doing wrong.
Otherwise, as I said, it's a terrific bike.
Kevin
On Monday, April 27,
Just off the phone with Bryan at Riv. He thought it might be a problem
with the Waterford frame; apparently, the folks at Waterford get a bit
sloppy with the tolerances. His suggested choices are to use a Thompson
seatpost instead of the Nitto or, as Bruce suggested, send the post back to
Yep. As Riv recommended, I installed a Nitto S65 Crystal Fellow 27.2 x 250
seat
post.
Kevin
On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 12:31:21 PM UTC-4, James Warren wrote:
I'm surprised to hear this. Put calipers on the Nitto then.
On Apr 27, 2015, at 9:24 AM, cyclot...@gmail.com javascript:
i sort of doubt the hanger is the problem. seems like it should be clamping
firmly before squeezing into the hanger. at any rate, the stock one they
send is not great. the surly one is a bit longer which allows less kinking
of the cable, and the loop that goes around the binder bolt is much
I'm surprised to hear this. Put calipers on the Nitto then.
On Apr 27, 2015, at 9:24 AM, cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
Someone else was recently complaining about Nitto seat posts not being to
spec. Better that than the seat tube ID
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I had the same situation with my Sam Hillborne. I called Brian at Riv and
they were able to knurl the seatpost. Problem solved. You can have a
machine shop do it but I struggled to find that in San Diego.
Good luck,
Bruce
On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 9:31:21 AM UTC-7, James Warren wrote:
Someone else was recently complaining about Nitto seat posts not being to
spec. Better that than the seat *tube *ID
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I've used blue Loctite to solve this same problem, though I hear that the
green is made for it. Wipe grease off post, smear liberally, re-install,
wala! This on an undersized post that sank about 1 per 5 miles despite
overtightening the bolt and distorting the ears.
On Mon, Apr 27, 2015 at 11:18
Thomson was what was slipping so bad on my Moser
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/F%20Moser/post.jpg
I would send the post back to Bryan for knurling
On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 12:12:22 PM UTC-5, Kevin Lindsey wrote:
Just off the phone with Bryan at Riv. He
Before doing any un-reversable mods like knurling, I would seriously give
this stuff a try:
http://www.tacx.com/en/products/tools/carbon-assembly-compound
YES, it's for carbon. NO your Rivendell will not explode if you use it.
Clean the post and frame best you can to rid it of the grease. Apply
agree, that looks like the first product to try
On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 12:18:21 PM UTC-5, jinxed wrote:
Before doing any un-reversable mods like knurling, I would seriously give
this stuff a try:
http://www.tacx.com/en/products/tools/carbon-assembly-compound
YES, it's for carbon.
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/rbw-owners-bunch/nitto$20slipping/rbw-owners-bunch/GGghYqGbNkE/FJrTPERosOYJ
On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 9:31:21 AM UTC-7, James Warren wrote:
I'm surprised to hear this. Put calipers on the Nitto then.
On Apr 27, 2015, at 9:24 AM,
I had this issue as well w/ my Hunqapillar I bought new last year and have
a thread somewhere on here on it. I ended up just replacing the seatpost
binder nut, I think I tightened the previous one too much. Haven't had the
issue since. But I also talked to Bryan and he mentioned bringing in the
After reading your replies Kevin, a new seatpost would be the first and
simplest thing to try. If you want to measure your Nitto first to know if
it's the issue , get a cheap pair of digital calipers from Amazon or Harbor
Freight. Don't store them with the battery installed , it runs the
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