+1 on the single bolt seatposts. Those are the worst. I've always ended up
with a Thomson because way back in the 1990s they were the only 2-bolt
seatposts. Are there any alternatives nowadays? The Thomsons are pretty
spendy for something that seems like you could easily copy it.
On Tue, Mar 14,
The Park Tool SuperGrip compound is supposed to be for carbon or alloy use.
I've heard it really doesn't matter though; apparently stuff that's
advertised for carbon fiber can also be used on steel and aluminum... I've
just never had to actually use it before. I would be surprised if the Nitto
I've never needed anti-slip compound on any of my steel, aluminum or ti
frames. Are you sure it's not the seatpost that's off in sizing? I
discovered, for instance, that the kalloy that came with my Roadini was
just no good. Replaced it with a Thomson and the problem just magically
went away. I
Brian, this is interesting to me because I could not get my S83 to go in the seat tube of my Gus. I too have always used Phil grease. The Kalloy post (also 26.8) slid right in. I am certain I could have gotten the S83 in there but did not want to scratch it Al up doing so. So far the Kalloy has
I too am curious as to how to use the SuperGrip compound on a seatpost.
Normally, I would lightly grease the entire post (from the clamp area on
down) with some Phil grease. With these gripping compounds, do you still
use regular grease on the post but apply the grip compound to the area
where
I had the same problem with my Appaloosa. I did not grease the binder bolt
at the head, or the threads. It slipped on my first ride, then broke when
trying to tighten it down more. I had an extra nut and bolt at home that I
grease in both spots, and it has held tight since. Something easy to
Update - I put some park tool super grip on there for a little extra
stickiness. Anyone have experience with this stuff? Do you just use this
alone on a seat post or is it combined with some grease on the lower part
of the post?
On Friday, January 27, 2023 at 7:57:02 AM UTC-8 Drew Henson
Yup. I worked with Rivendell on my kalloy seatpost that came with the
Roadini slipping. Greased the binder bolt, etc. Darn thing still slipped,
and in any case that kalloy would never stay level (I guess I know why all
those pictures of Rivendell bikes have saddles pointed upwards!). I gave up
Typical bike shop procedure is to use a flex hone on the end of a hand drill.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 11, 2018, at 9:44 AM, Brian Campbell wrote:
>
> FWIW, I have owned 3 Rivs (AHH/Hunq/Custom) and ALL have needed to have the
> seat tubes reamed to the correct size. All three would
FWIW, I have owned 3 Rivs (AHH/Hunq/Custom) and ALL have needed to have the
seat tubes reamed to the correct size. All three would scratch up seat
posts terribly when they were inserted. I spent about 3 hours with a brake
cylinder hone and 400 grit sand paper getting the AHH seat tube so that
I have a tapered round file. It lets you get in there at a slight angle so you
can make some passes at the ridge without rubbing at the top of the lug.
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Thanks everyone who responded with advice. I did find a low ridge inside
the lug, which extends about 1/3 of the way around the inside of the lug.
It looks like where the seat tube ends. Now I have to figure out how to
file that smooth without scraping the paint at the top of the lug.
On
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