The technique I learned for initial adjustment of threadless systems is to
tighten the preload until the bearings just slightly bind when you do the
"swing the front wheel" manoeuvre (hoist bike with front wheel dangling
downward, gently sway bike back and forth so that the front wheel swings).
That was the larger part of my point, yes. Time spent in this life
adjusting threaded headsets = statistically zero. Time spent adjusting
threadless headsets = every time I swap a stem. Neither really amounts to
enough time to give either a second thought, but the fact remains I've set
threadless
But on the other hand, I remember mountain biking back in the day, when
every crash would involve straightening out the threaded stem before I
could get back on the trail. This never happens with threadless... though
maybe in part because I crash less now than I used to.
Eric
On Mon, Apr 15,
You’re right—I don’t do this often. However, in 2007 when I was near the finish
of PBP and suffering from some pretty bad numbness in my hands, it was *so*
helpful to be able to raise the stem easily on the road. That took some weight
off my hands and allowed me to finish the ride (although my
>Try changing the height of your bars on the road with a threadless stem.
If you set it up correctly (extra length in the steerer+ extra spacers), it
can be done ... but it will take ten times longer than with a quill stem.
Dear Eric,
If one is in the habit of constantly changing one's bar
One thing I found out the hard way about these threadless jobs - if you buy
one that's cheap, you may also wind up with one that's low quality making
it difficult, if not impossible, to adjust properly. I had a MTB that came
with a threadless that was constantly loose all the time, no matter
I get it; sorry, Hugh, I misunderstood. Yes, headset adjustment is rarely
needed for either type once done correctly.
On Mon, Apr 15, 2019 at 8:20 AM Steve Palincsar wrote:
> Which is to say, headsets very seldom need to be adjusted. Which indeed
> is Hugh's point: you may size time adjusting,
On 4/15/19 10:11 AM, 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch wrote:
Try changing the height of your bars on the road with a threadless
stem. If you set it up correctly (extra length in the steerer+ extra
spacers), it can be done ... but it will take ten times longer than
with a quill stem.
Which is to say, headsets very seldom need to be adjusted. Which indeed
is Hugh's point: you may size time adjusting, but since you do it so
infrequently in the big picture the savings are inconsequential.
It's the same thing with coding: you optimize code in an inner loop,
that executes a
Frequency? All the threadless headsets I've owned kept their adjustment at
least as well as all the threaded ones I've used; and setting pre-load is
far easier than setting bearing load on a threaded system and keeping it
set while tightening the locknut.
Patrick: threadless systems certainly
Try changing the height of your bars on the road with a threadless stem. If you
set it up correctly (extra length in the steerer+ extra spacers), it can be
done ... but it will take ten times longer than with a quill stem.
OTOH, it’s impossible to get a threadless stem stuck inside the steerer,
Great video; thanks for the link.
Tom
Alexandira, VA
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DP, this video may assist you. The fellow named WheeliePete from YT has a
way of explaining the whole threadless system in an easy to understand
fashion, complete with hand drawn blueprint of "how it works". This is
what I do appreciate about YT, the guys who post how-to videos in easily
It may also interest the readers to know that the origin of such a…errr…
*whimsical* name came from the original iteration of Ibis Cycles, that was
the purveyor of other whimsical names for bike components, such as the
infamous Handjob rear cable stop on some of their frames, and the ugly
That's an argument for using one of these, Hugh!
https://www.jensonusa.com/Problem-Solvers-Locking-Headset-Spacer (as already
referenced by Bryan Cole in this thread).
I have the same idea, but with an integrated cable stop on my two threadless
bikes. It makes swapping stems or changing bar
I would explain it this way: the cap holds everything in place while you center
the stem and tighten the stem bolts. The stem is what actually holds everything
safely and securely together. With the stem bolts tightened, you could, if you
wanted, throw away the cap and go riding.
--
You
The ease of adjustment for threadless stems is indeed so great that it is
astounding how hard it can be to describe properly...
That said, the gains offered by simplicity are offset by the frequency with
which one has to do it. For all the claimed complexity of threaded headset
adjustmemt, one
Yes. This is what kept me away from threadless for so long. It seemed so
complicated based on descriptions. In reality it’s super simple. So much so
that I questioned what I was doing the first few times. “Is the stem bolt
actually holding the fork on the bike?” Still runs thru my head.
--
It may be easier to adjust threadless, but no one on this thread has explained
it well. I'm not even going to try as I don't think I'm a trustworthy source
for the info, either. For such a simple procedure, it's stunning to me how hard
it is to get a straight answer on the internet for it.
--
Oh, and from 3 x 1 cm spacers underneath to the equivalent of 1
("equivalent" because the present stem's clamp is longer than the others
that I installed by about 1 cm).
On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 8:22 PM Patrick Moore wrote:
> ...
> I've gone from 8 cm and 10* or so rise through 4 iterations in
Jim G's stem calculator is an easy - and cheap - way to estimate stem
length and reach. I used to make cardboard templates, but digital in this
case is better.
I've gone from 8 cm and 10* or so rise through 4 iterations in length and
angle to the present 10 cm and -17* on the Matthews, have have
The L stands for Limp. I will leave the rest to your imagination.
On Sunday, April 14, 2019 at 4:56:15 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> And what does "LD" stand for?
> On 4/14/19 4:47 PM, lconley wrote:
>
> I seem to end up with LD type stems on most of my bikes with threadless
> headsets
And what does "LD" stand for?
On 4/14/19 4:47 PM, lconley wrote:
I seem to end up with LD type stems on most of my bikes with
threadless headsets (took a while before I figured out what LD stood
for). The exception is the HHH where I have the threadless Bullmoose
handlebars which clamp
I seem to end up with LD type stems on most of my bikes with threadless
headsets (took a while before I figured out what LD stood for). The
exception is the HHH where I have the threadless Bullmoose handlebars which
clamp directly to the steerer tube on top of a huge stack of spacers. The
LD
DP, re stem angles:
back in the day, virtually all quill stems had 73 (aka -17) deg. extensions.
With threadless stems 90 deg. is common, as is 84, 73 is easy to find too,
probably others as well.
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Yes, there's a schmillion angles and lengths for threadless stems. Fortunately
they usually come with open-face clamps so it's easy to buy a stack of cheap
used ones and fiddle with fit until you find what you like. Then buy a fancy
one!
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Thanks, Kai! The idea to be sure and set the bearings via the top bolt first,
then tighten the stem bolt is key.
George, is that a threadless issue? I was looking at the slack headtube and
wondering how it's all going to play out with the wavy bars (arriving next
week), but that would be the
I don't dislike threadless headsets. In fact, I have several bikes with
'em. But one feature that have found to be a bit more annoying than with
the old threaded "quill" stems is the fact that they come in a variety of
different lengths and angles. Used to be, when you went to set up your
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