I put in a bottom bracket yesterday. Just though I would share a simple
technique to avoid cross threading. First off, reach through the other
side and support the spindle end with a least a fingertip to help with the
alignment. Turn the threads the wrong way until you feel a slight bump of
curiosity got the best of me and i had it taken out/replaced (with a lovely
phil bb purchased from this group). most of your analysis' were right on
the money. some uncleanliness, slightly imperfect fit, possibly unchased
shell etc made the initial install hard, but all is well and the threads
Tools used for cutting or chasing BB threads are used enough that there is
wear of material form them, including that of re-sharpening, can leave less
perfect threads. If the tool has wear, the cuts are not as deep and more
metal remains than if it was done by a new cutter. A new BB threaded
Dear Patrick,
It isn't the end of the world, though it is a hassle.
If the threads are actually mangled, you may be able to fix them as Patrick
outlines. You also can re-thread BSC bottom brackets to Italian threads.
Worst case, brass in the munged up ones and recut them and repaint the bike.
i echo everyone's statement about not getting too worried about it. i've
had an issue in the past where i had a frame and bb-cup that just didn't
agree (other bb-cups worked fine, and other frames worked fine with that
particular bb-cup). in the end i just bought a new bb-cup so i could
Note that cross threaded bb shells (if they are steel) can be (1) sometimes
fixed by chasing; (2) repaired by a framebuild; (3) salvaged by using a
non-threading-type bb bearing assembly.
But Deacon P is right: if the shop messed the threads up, they owe you.
On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 6:35 PM,
honestly, i doubt i kept a receipt for the work that was done. i figured
that they must install bottom brackets multiple times a day, and everything
was normal. the whole install took 10 minutes. it would be hard to prove
and i can't imagine them willingly admitting to it.
it seems
Oh Drew, I should add that my experiences include 5 Riv frames I
installed/replaced BBs on, including a Saluki which had never been built up
before it was sold to me. In general I would say they were easier to work
on than other older bikes I've fiddled with, but there was still much
variation
I'm not the expert others here are, but I've done my BB a number of times.
It sounds to my like the second shop gave you good advice with the
following additional thoughts:
-- can you get the first shop to stand by their work and if the frame is
ruined to pay for the new frame? I wouldn't
If there was some crud in there, you most likely saw them slowly grinding
through it with greased threads..backing off and going back in further a
few times. I've done exactly this literally dozens of times. In my
experience modern Shimano bottom brackets can be a bit of a tight fit
compared
pb,
yeah you're hitting on what i was just wondering about myself. the frame
was new, but not straight from the factory. it had been at rivendell for a
while. the riv bb install video says that they face+chase before sending
out, but that video is from 2010, so i dont know if it still
Drew, was it a new, never-before-assembled frame? I don't know how clean
those frames are when Riv sends them out. For clarification -- I'm not
saying they aren't clean -- I'm saying I don't know. Does Riv have a
policy of facing and chasing before shipping? Or was it a used and dirty
thanks all for the one-way-or-another reassuring thoughts, experiences and
ideas. i agree that the better shop may not be as prepared to do a
creative workaround as i want. if it comes to that point, ill have to find
a place that knows all the tricks you guys know.
joe, im holding out that
As a professional mechanic, I would say that there are numerous reasons a
BB might go in slightly tightly or not as easily as a perfect tool video
might show:
1. It is true that not all frames from Rivendell are faced and chased
before they are delivered to customers. I had to end up facing
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