[RBW] Re: Legolas!

2013-03-18 Thread Cyclofiend Jim


On Sunday, March 17, 2013 2:57:14 PM UTC-7, samh wrote:

 Hello,

 Is there anyone who could state in plain English what this thread is about?



From the email newsletter, there is a mention that a heretofore 
discontinued model - the Legolas - is available for order. 

Legolas was the production model of Mark's CX Custom frameset.  

One of the reasonably rare production runs.

As the Lord of the Rings movies gained steam, there were some moves to 
prevent anyone from using names which were also found in the book - 
Quickbeam, Legolas, Bombadil, for example.  So, those names were phased 
out. 

Examples of Legolas bicycles:

http://www.cyclofiend.com/cx/2010/cx063-jimmather0510.html

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclofiend/7360011042/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclofiend/301685603/

http://www.cyclofiend.com/cx/2009/cx049-maxie0309.html

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclofiend/508855830/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclofiend/301689556/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclofiend/507738966/

Hope that helps,

- J / cyclofiend.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: Legolas!

2013-03-18 Thread cyclotourist
Orlando Bloom Appreciation Society.


On Sun, Mar 17, 2013 at 11:02 PM, Cyclofiend Jim
cyclofi...@earthlink.netwrote:



 On Sunday, March 17, 2013 2:57:14 PM UTC-7, samh wrote:

 Hello,

 Is there anyone who could state in plain English what this thread is
 about?



 From the email newsletter, there is a mention that a heretofore
 discontinued model - the Legolas - is available for order.

 Legolas was the production model of Mark's CX Custom frameset.

 One of the reasonably rare production runs.

 As the Lord of the Rings movies gained steam, there were some moves to
 prevent anyone from using names which were also found in the book -
 Quickbeam, Legolas, Bombadil, for example.  So, those names were phased
 out.

 Examples of Legolas bicycles:

 http://www.cyclofiend.com/cx/2010/cx063-jimmather0510.html

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclofiend/7360011042/

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclofiend/301685603/

 http://www.cyclofiend.com/cx/2009/cx049-maxie0309.html

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclofiend/508855830/

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclofiend/301689556/

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclofiend/507738966/

 Hope that helps,

 - J / cyclofiend.com

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Cheers,
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Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: In Praise of The Rambo

2013-03-18 Thread ascpgh
Had that experience with my orange Ram when I rode the Five Boro in NYC two 
years ago, my wife asked if I knew that 32,000 adoring fans of my bike 
would be present. Couple weeks ago during a ride on a day predicted 
correctly to be a bright and 50-ish day each time the group stopped someone 
commented. At the conclusion of the ride another rider actually asked if 
she could and did take pictures of my bikes lugs and head badge. CF riders 
standing with their uniformly anonymous monocoque bikes in stunned 
observation. To mount additional frustration in the team kit all-lycra 
camp, another asked where I got the 3/4s I was wearing they look like they 
make so much sense with pockets.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh.

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[RBW] Re: Optimal clearance for metal fenders...

2013-03-18 Thread Jan Heine
This post about how to figure out whether your bike can take metal fenders 
may be of interest:

http://janheine.wordpress.com/2013/01/27/does-my-bike-take-fenders/

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at www.janheine.com

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[RBW] Re: Saluki Brake / Rack Mating Question

2013-03-18 Thread Ron Mc
Michael, sorry I can't help, but you've helped me.  I have the same brakes 
and rack on my daughter's bike.  
I don't like the Tektros much, because they seem to require too much 
attention - they have to be adjusted every time the weather changes.  
I was thinking about the Pauls, but you've convinced me to live with the 
adjustments.  

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[RBW] Re: “Paleofantasy”: Stone Age delusions - Is Grant Eating the Wrong Stuff?

2013-03-18 Thread Deacon Patrick
Here is a well thought out response from the author of the Perfect Health 
Diet.
Paleofantasy and the State of Ancestral 
Sciencehttp://perfecthealthdiet.com/2013/03/paleofantasy-and-the-state-of-ancestral-science/
http://perfecthealthdiet.com/2013/03/paleofantasy-and-the-state-of-ancestral-science/

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, March 12, 2013 5:55:21 PM UTC-6, Eric Norris wrote:

 Thought this might be of interest to some on this list. I'm not an 
 expert--or even an amateur--on the paleo living topic, but this article 
 makes some interesting points. 

 http://www.salon.com/2013/03/10/paleofantasy_stone_age_delusions/ 

 --Eric N 
 www.CampyOnly.com 
 CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com 
 Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hupe or Fender for saddlebag support (if it rides too low)?

2013-03-18 Thread iamkeith
  I don't know if I'm more impressed with the simple inginuity of your 
solution, or the artistry and composure of the snapshots.

On Sunday, March 17, 2013 12:33:17 PM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

  You can make something out of a wire hanger if you're just trying to 
 protect the bag from rubbing on the cable:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/5853075601/in/photostream/
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/5853624744/in/photostream/
 Attach it to the seat stay braze-ons and good to go. Won't protect from 
 rubbing on the fender/tire though.


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[RBW] Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
I've been tinkering with a Rohloff build on my repainted Bombadil for a long 
time, trying to make an after-market eccentric bottom bracket work.  It never 
came together satisfyingly, so I gave up and ordered a Rohloff chain tensioner. 
 I built it up over the weekend - here it is: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567470700/in/photostream.  And here: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567485276/in/photostream/

Those are the new Fatty Rumpkins, which ride really well - the toughness is not 
at much cost, in terms of ride quality.  I'm really pleased with the build.  In 
a 10 mile test ride yesterday, everything worked together seamlessly - except I 
haven't been able to shift into the lowest gear, meaning I have that unique 13 
speed Rohloff.



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[RBW] Re: Glorius and Wilbury

2013-03-18 Thread William
The original tentacular stays, right?

Stay tentacular would be a good button.  

On Sunday, March 17, 2013 8:09:31 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:

 This has already been posted in Legolas!, but I thought it was worth its 
 own thread. The Glorius and Wilbury with their super-fancy lugs are still 
 available as customs. I want one!
  
 *http://www.flickr.com/photos/archivalclothing/320216954/*http://www.flickr.com/photos/archivalclothing/320216954/
  
 Joe Bernard
 Vallejo, CA.
  
  
  


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[RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread jinxed


 Holy COW!!! That is one serious lookin machine! It's like a unimog!


I absolutely loved the Fatty Rumpkins when I had my Bleriot. I actually 
still have them despite no 650b bike.

I also have to comment that I'm surprised there are not more black 
Rivendells out there. I think they look incredibly classy. This one is no 
exception. GREAT looking bike. 

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[RBW] Re: Legolas!

2013-03-18 Thread Philip Williamson
This Rivendell model 
(http://www.flickr.com/photos/philipwilliamson/2917695862/) is available 
again, but can't be advertised on the Rivendell website.

Here's the plain English from the email newsletter:

*Custom Frames, Old Models*
Mark asked me to mention that the wait on Custom Rivendell frames is at an 
all time low of 6 months. That might seem like a long time but this is 
fully custom mind you, it takes a while, but there's nobody on the list 
almost except for Liesl who won the custom frame raffle. She came by and 
fell in love with the Appaloosa long-bike prototype and is going to get her 
custom in that vein.

Before Betty and Yves, there was Glorious and Wilbury, the nicest mixtes 
ever made. The lugs were so fancy builders would mess up too often and we 
stopped production. You can still get them though, we have the fancy lugs 
but they're now deemed customs. See previous paragraph.

Also, when the Lord of the Rings movies came out, some tangent of the 
Tolkein estate made us stop using the Legolas name on our staff-favorite 
lugged-steel-cross bikes and as the deal went down we can't have them 
marketed on the website. So we don't. But! People like them and we can 
still use the decals we have so if you want a really light canti-braked 
cross bike we can make it in Wisconsin for $2200. Call Mark if you're 
serious. Legolases now available: $2200, but not on the site.


Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Sunday, March 17, 2013 2:57:14 PM UTC-7, samh wrote:

 Hello,

 Is there anyone who could state in plain English what this thread is about?

 Thanks.

 On Thursday, March 14, 2013 9:07:23 PM UTC-6, Peter M wrote:

 Dont tell the LOTR estate, its a hush hush deal...
  
 *Legolases now available: $2200, but not on the site*.



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Re: [RBW] Re: All Rounder with Midge bar UPDATE

2013-03-18 Thread Steven Frederick
On Fri, Mar 15, 2013 at 10:53 PM, Mike Schiller
mikeybi...@rocketmail.comwrote:


 and I certainly agree with you on hardtail 29ers... after going through a
 few full suspension bikes, a well designed 29er is the best MTB no question!


Eh, I don't find them to be all that, personally.  They do seem to work
well for the people they work well for tho...

Steve

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[RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread William
When I decide to go full minimalist, I will move to New England and bunk 
down happily splitting time between Peter Weigle's and Tom's workshops.  

On Monday, March 18, 2013 9:43:12 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:

  I’ve been tinkering with a Rohloff build on my repainted Bombadil for a 
 long time, trying to make an after-market eccentric bottom bracket work.  
 It never came together satisfyingly, so I gave up and ordered a Rohloff 
 chain tensioner.  I built it up over the weekend – here it is: 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567470700/in/photostream.  And 
 here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567485276/in/photostream/ 

  

 Those are the new Fatty Rumpkins, which ride really well – the toughness 
 is not at much cost, in terms of ride quality.  I’m really pleased with the 
 build.  In a 10 mile test ride yesterday, everything worked together 
 seamlessly – except I haven’t been able to shift into the lowest gear, 
 meaning I have that unique 13 speed Rohloff.

  

  
  
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[RBW] Re: Saluki Brake / Rack Mating Question

2013-03-18 Thread William
It would be cool if you could get the canti-post struts separately so you 
could run a Mark's Rack with the canti-post mounting, but still had 
adjustable struts so you could accommodate high-stack brakes, like the 
Pauls.  Unfortunately, it looks like you can only buy those struts in 70mm 
an 120mm lengths, which is not going to be long enough.  That would have 
been a slick setup.  

http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_infoproducts_id=7978



On Sunday, March 17, 2013 8:25:33 PM UTC-7, William wrote:

 I would advise ditching the Paul brakes.  The Tektros are fine and will 
 play nice with the rack.  If you have mid fork braze ons so that a Nitto 
 Mini Front would fit, then that could present an option, but an M12 won't 
 be any better on Paul brakes than that VO is.  Paul has way too much stack 
 up.

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[RBW] Re: In Praise of The Rambo

2013-03-18 Thread Evan
The orange Rambouillet is the best-looking bike ever. Fact. :)

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[RBW] Optimal clearance for metal fenders...

2013-03-18 Thread Aaron Young
Bob,

What size were the hammered fenders?  The largest size I can find on the VO
site is a 47 which could be the reason that a 47 tire would have difficulty
fitting with sufficient clearance.  If you really want metal fenders they
have the Zeppelin style in 52, but that might even be a tight fit for
Rene's 50 mm Duremes. Here's a link to their fender page. I

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/fenders.html?p=1

In the past my metal fenders have all been from VO and I've been happy with
them.

Aaron Young
Vancouver, WA

On Sunday, March 17, 2013, Robert Barr wrote:

 Rene,

 I struggled with the fenders on my Hunqapillar. My thoughtful wife bought
 me some hammered VOs as a gift because I had mentioned that I thought they
 would look great on the Hunq. And they would have -  but with 47-622
 Marathons there wasn't a mm to spare. My normal commute takes me down a
 gravel trail with stones and sticks. I fret the sticks more than the
 stones. After several attempts to fit the VOs (two sizes and lots of
 thinking..). I had to go back to my tried and true SKS. They  worked best
 for me and where I ride. Good luck...

 Bob



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[RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Liesl
Holy Black Beauty, Batman  The Black Bomba is *Da Bomb.*  I mean, 
really.  Makes me contemplate changing up my color scheme for the Appaloosa.

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[RBW] Re: In Praise of The Rambo

2013-03-18 Thread William
Not only that, but every bike that has ever been always rides better and 
rides faster when it is Orange.  FACT

On Monday, March 18, 2013 11:09:06 AM UTC-7, Evan wrote:

 The orange Rambouillet is the best-looking bike ever. Fact. :)

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Re: [RBW] Optimal clearance for metal fenders...

2013-03-18 Thread Shoji Takahashi
Lovelybike has info on a Surly Cross Check with Fat Franks and VO 
Zeppelins. (Lots of pics.)
http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2011/06/surly-cross-check-review-colourful.html

She mentions: On the downside, the clearances between the tires and 
fenders are so tight, that the set-up is not really practical for serious 
off-road cycling: stuff can get caught in there and cause problems. But for 
fire trails and gravel paths it is fine...

I don't think I would do this with knobbies.

Good luck-- looking forward to the pics of the build.
Shoji


On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:09:53 PM UTC-4, AaronY wrote:

 Bob,

 What size were the hammered fenders?  The largest size I can find on the 
 VO site is a 47 which could be the reason that a 47 tire would have 
 difficulty fitting with sufficient clearance.  If you really want metal 
 fenders they have the Zeppelin style in 52, but that might even be a tight 
 fit for Rene's 50 mm Duremes. Here's a link to their fender page. I

 http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/fenders.html?p=1

 In the past my metal fenders have all been from VO and I've been happy 
 with them.  

 Aaron Young
 Vancouver, WA

 On Sunday, March 17, 2013, Robert Barr wrote:

 Rene,

 I struggled with the fenders on my Hunqapillar. My thoughtful wife bought 
 me some hammered VOs as a gift because I had mentioned that I thought they 
 would look great on the Hunq. And they would have -  but with 47-622 
 Marathons there wasn't a mm to spare. My normal commute takes me down a 
 gravel trail with stones and sticks. I fret the sticks more than the 
 stones. After several attempts to fit the VOs (two sizes and lots of 
 thinking..). I had to go back to my tried and true SKS. They  worked best 
 for me and where I ride. Good luck...

 Bob
  



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[RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Deacon Patrick
Guinness, for health! Though it looks like Guinness, you are outfitted to 
carry whisky. Impressive. What's your preference?

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, March 18, 2013 10:43:12 AM UTC-6, Pudge wrote:

  I’ve been tinkering with a Rohloff build on my repainted Bombadil for a 
 long time, trying to make an after-market eccentric bottom bracket work.  
 It never came together satisfyingly, so I gave up and ordered a Rohloff 
 chain tensioner.  I built it up over the weekend – here it is: 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567470700/in/photostream.  And 
 here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567485276/in/photostream/ 

  

 Those are the new Fatty Rumpkins, which ride really well – the toughness 
 is not at much cost, in terms of ride quality.  I’m really pleased with the 
 build.  In a 10 mile test ride yesterday, everything worked together 
 seamlessly – except I haven’t been able to shift into the lowest gear, 
 meaning I have that unique 13 speed Rohloff.

  

  
  
 --
  
 

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 that, unless otherwise expressly indicated, any federal tax advice 
 contained in this message was not intended or written to be used, and 
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 the Internal Revenue Code or applicable state or local tax law provisions 
 or (ii) promoting, marketing or recommending to another party any 
 tax-related matters addressed herein.
 
 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Peter Morgano
So wait Patrick, cavemen drank alcohol? I should go back and watch History
of the World again...JK.

On Mon, Mar 18, 2013 at 3:26 PM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 Guinness, for health! Though it looks like Guinness, you are outfitted to
 carry whisky. Impressive. What's your preference?

 With abandon,
 Patrick


 On Monday, March 18, 2013 10:43:12 AM UTC-6, Pudge wrote:

  I’ve been tinkering with a Rohloff build on my repainted Bombadil for a
 long time, trying to make an after-market eccentric bottom bracket work.
 It never came together satisfyingly, so I gave up and ordered a Rohloff
 chain tensioner.  I built it up over the weekend – here it is:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/**37542512@N04/8567470700/in/**photostreamhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567470700/in/photostream.
  And here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/**37542512@N04/8567485276/in/**
 photostream/http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567485276/in/photostream/



 Those are the new Fatty Rumpkins, which ride really well – the toughness
 is not at much cost, in terms of ride quality.  I’m really pleased with the
 build.  In a 10 mile test ride yesterday, everything worked together
 seamlessly – except I haven’t been able to shift into the lowest gear,
 meaning I have that unique 13 speed Rohloff.





 --**--**--
 **

 To ensure compliance with Treasury Department regulations, we advise you
 that, unless otherwise expressly indicated, any federal tax advice
 contained in this message was not intended or written to be used, and
 cannot be used, for the purpose of (i) avoiding tax-related penalties under
 the Internal Revenue Code or applicable state or local tax law provisions
 or (ii) promoting, marketing or recommending to another party any
 tax-related matters addressed herein.
 **
 **

 This email (and any attachments thereto) is intended only for use by the
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 If you receive this email in error please immediately notify me at (212)
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 email) and any printout thereof.

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 **
 ==**==**==


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Re: [RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Peter Morgano
BTW, as a fellow IGH and Bombadil guy I have to say that bike so dialed in
and beautiful. It looks exciting just sitting still! I would love to take
the Rohloff plunge but I have to wait for the Alfine hub to wear out first
(at least that is what I am told by a certain  someone).

On Mon, Mar 18, 2013 at 3:31 PM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.comwrote:

 So wait Patrick, cavemen drank alcohol? I should go back and watch
 History of the World again...JK.

 On Mon, Mar 18, 2013 at 3:26 PM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.comwrote:

 Guinness, for health! Though it looks like Guinness, you are outfitted to
 carry whisky. Impressive. What's your preference?

 With abandon,
 Patrick


 On Monday, March 18, 2013 10:43:12 AM UTC-6, Pudge wrote:

  I’ve been tinkering with a Rohloff build on my repainted Bombadil for
 a long time, trying to make an after-market eccentric bottom bracket work.
 It never came together satisfyingly, so I gave up and ordered a Rohloff
 chain tensioner.  I built it up over the weekend – here it is:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/**37542512@N04/8567470700/in/**photostreamhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567470700/in/photostream.
  And here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/**37542512@N04/8567485276/in/**
 photostream/http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567485276/in/photostream/



 Those are the new Fatty Rumpkins, which ride really well – the toughness
 is not at much cost, in terms of ride quality.  I’m really pleased with the
 build.  In a 10 mile test ride yesterday, everything worked together
 seamlessly – except I haven’t been able to shift into the lowest gear,
 meaning I have that unique 13 speed Rohloff.





 --**--**--
 **

 To ensure compliance with Treasury Department regulations, we advise you
 that, unless otherwise expressly indicated, any federal tax advice
 contained in this message was not intended or written to be used, and
 cannot be used, for the purpose of (i) avoiding tax-related penalties under
 the Internal Revenue Code or applicable state or local tax law provisions
 or (ii) promoting, marketing or recommending to another party any
 tax-related matters addressed herein.
 **
 **

 This email (and any attachments thereto) is intended only for use by the
 addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or
 confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient of this
 email, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or
 copying of this email (and any attachments thereto) is strictly prohibited.
 If you receive this email in error please immediately notify me at (212)
 735-3000 and permanently delete the original email (and any copy of any
 email) and any printout thereof.

 Further information about the firm, a list of the Partners and their
 professional qualifications will be provided upon request.
 **
 ==**==**==


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Re: [RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Deacon Patrick
After a hard day of persistence hunting, there was nothing like fermented 
tubers! Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, March 18, 2013 1:31:02 PM UTC-6, Peter M wrote:

 So wait Patrick, cavemen drank alcohol? I should go back and watch 
 History of the World again...JK. 

 On Mon, Mar 18, 2013 at 3:26 PM, Deacon Patrick lamon...@mac.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 Guinness, for health! Though it looks like Guinness, you are outfitted to 
 carry whisky. Impressive. What's your preference?

 With abandon,
 Patrick


 On Monday, March 18, 2013 10:43:12 AM UTC-6, Pudge wrote:

  I’ve been tinkering with a Rohloff build on my repainted Bombadil for 
 a long time, trying to make an after-market eccentric bottom bracket work.  
 It never came together satisfyingly, so I gave up and ordered a Rohloff 
 chain tensioner.  I built it up over the weekend – here it is: 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/**37542512@N04/8567470700/in/**photostreamhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567470700/in/photostream.
  
  And here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/**37542512@N04/8567485276/in/**
 photostream/http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567485276/in/photostream/
  

  

 Those are the new Fatty Rumpkins, which ride really well – the toughness 
 is not at much cost, in terms of ride quality.  I’m really pleased with the 
 build.  In a 10 mile test ride yesterday, everything worked together 
 seamlessly – except I haven’t been able to shift into the lowest gear, 
 meaning I have that unique 13 speed Rohloff.

  

  
  
 --**--**--
  
 **

 To ensure compliance with Treasury Department regulations, we advise you 
 that, unless otherwise expressly indicated, any federal tax advice 
 contained in this message was not intended or written to be used, and 
 cannot be used, for the purpose of (i) avoiding tax-related penalties under 
 the Internal Revenue Code or applicable state or local tax law provisions 
 or (ii) promoting, marketing or recommending to another party any 
 tax-related matters addressed herein.
 **
 **

 This email (and any attachments thereto) is intended only for use by the 
 addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or 
 confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient of this 
 email, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or 
 copying of this email (and any attachments thereto) is strictly prohibited. 
 If you receive this email in error please immediately notify me at (212) 
 735-3000 and permanently delete the original email (and any copy of any 
 email) and any printout thereof.

 Further information about the firm, a list of the Partners and their 
 professional qualifications will be provided upon request.
 **
 ==**==**==
  


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[RBW] RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-18 Thread Michael
In a cool interview with Nitto exec Mr. Yoshikawa, Grant asks this question. 
Nitto exec leaves it up to consumer. So I was wondering if anything to be 
concerned about. Anyone know anything about aluminum bar life?
Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have? Don't want any 
accidents.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Tom Harrop
What a beast! Great stuff.

I'm curious, what made you give up on the EBB?

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Re: [RBW] RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-18 Thread Aaron Young
I don't have any expertise regarding metallurgy - only my own experience
riding bars that are 20+ years old.  Upon visual inspection they appear
fine and I've never noticed anything strange while riding with them.  I
plan to continue ring them until someone declares I'm completely nuts...
which could theoretically happen at any time, right?

Aaron Young
Vancouver, WA

On Monday, March 18, 2013, Michael wrote:

 In a cool interview with Nitto exec Mr. Yoshikawa, Grant asks this
 question. Nitto exec leaves it up to consumer. So I was wondering if
 anything to be concerned about. Anyone know anything about aluminum bar
 life?
 Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have? Don't want any
 accidents.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Montclair BobbyB
BEHOLD...BLACK BOMBA!!
I can see this was well worth the effort... I especially love the black 
rims and silver spokes... Simply awesome!!!
I hope you'll bring this on the Water Gap ride... 

... along with the Mystery Bike, 
... and your JP Weigle Raleigh... 
... and your green Wilbury...

Oh, nevermind... just bring the Bomba




On Monday, March 18, 2013 4:10:28 PM UTC-4, Tom Harrop wrote:

 What a beast! Great stuff.

 I'm curious, what made you give up on the EBB?


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[RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-18 Thread Ryan Ray
I had a friend who broke his collarbone recently when his vintage cinelli 
bars snapped during a decent. I immediately thought about this.

I did think it was 10 years though, right?

- Ryan



On Monday, March 18, 2013 12:50:43 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:

 In a cool interview with Nitto exec Mr. Yoshikawa, Grant asks this 
 question. Nitto exec leaves it up to consumer. So I was wondering if 
 anything to be concerned about. Anyone know anything about aluminum bar 
 life?
 Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have? Don't want any 
 accidents.

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[RBW] Re: 66cm Orange Rambouillet $1300 + shipping

2013-03-18 Thread Ryan Ray
Google says there is another post here but I can't see it not sure why.

To answer some questions, the bike is in Seattle WA.

I would actually prefer to sell the bike complete due to time constraints.

Updated price: 1200 + shipping complete, $750 frame, fork, dura ace 
headset, BB.

Thanks

Ryan



On Sunday, March 17, 2013 2:54:20 PM UTC-7, Ryan Ray wrote:

 I'm going to put this up frame only for 750 + shipping before putting it 
 up on ebay.

 - Ryan



 On Tuesday, March 12, 2013 4:58:27 PM UTC-7, Ryan Ray wrote:

 I'm selling my 66cm orange Rambouillet for $1300 plus shipping. I plan on 
 rolling it to recycled cycles where they will take it apart and box it up 
 for $45 then ship it at cost.

 Some photos here:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryanrray/


 66 c to t
 Orange

 All parts less than 2 years old other than headset/bb/seat post.

 Xt rapid rise
 Big noodles
 Tektro levers
 Brand new tektro brakes, the new model 
 XD2 triple
 Mks touring pedals
 New 32mm pasela TGs
 New sks p45s with a VO leather flap
 105/open sport wheelset
 All new cables/housing

 I'm sure I'm forgetting some detail.

 If I get payment this week I can have it shipped this week as I'm not 
 working this week because I had a baby last week.
 - Ryan




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[RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-18 Thread William
You pose two questions:

1.  Anyone know anything about aluminum bar life?

I know a little bit about fatigue life of materials.  Any metal that is 
cyclicly loaded will fatigue and fail eventually.  Just about every metal 
has a similar look to it on an S-N curve (Wikipedia that for an 
explanation).  The take home is that almost everything eventually wears out 
and fails.  It's just a matter of when.  Steel is a notable exception.  If 
steel is cyclicly loaded at a low enough Stress, then it essentially never 
fatigues.  Incredible stuff.  Anyway, Aluminum does fatigue and 
fail...eventually.  When?  It depends on how much you are stressing it and 
how many cycles you put on it daily.  

2.  Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have?

Nitto is going to say what they say because they generate these S-N curves 
and test the heck out of their products.  They do see parts fail after lots 
of cycles, and what they recommend is going to be conservative.  When Nitto 
says 5 years, I think 20.  I do not think 50 years.  You don't know when 
your bars are going to fail unless you know REALLY accurately what the 
loading history of your bars is.  In other words, you have no idea. 
 Anybody who decides to buy and ride used equipment assumes some additional 
risk because you just don't know for sure what the history is.  If you 
think you would feel a lot more comfortable replacing your handlebars, then 
I'd say do it.  

On Monday, March 18, 2013 12:50:43 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:

 In a cool interview with Nitto exec Mr. Yoshikawa, Grant asks this 
 question. Nitto exec leaves it up to consumer. So I was wondering if 
 anything to be concerned about. Anyone know anything about aluminum bar 
 life?
 Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have? Don't want any 
 accidents.

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[RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-18 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
The number of years is irrelevant. Some skinny person who rides upright and 
gingerly on smooth roads 5 miles per week is going to get 500 years out of 
the bar. 

On Monday, March 18, 2013 4:10:09 PM UTC-5, William wrote:

 You pose two questions:

 1.  Anyone know anything about aluminum bar life?

 I know a little bit about fatigue life of materials.  Any metal that is 
 cyclicly loaded will fatigue and fail eventually.  Just about every metal 
 has a similar look to it on an S-N curve (Wikipedia that for an 
 explanation).  The take home is that almost everything eventually wears out 
 and fails.  It's just a matter of when.  Steel is a notable exception.  If 
 steel is cyclicly loaded at a low enough Stress, then it essentially never 
 fatigues.  Incredible stuff.  Anyway, Aluminum does fatigue and 
 fail...eventually.  When?  It depends on how much you are stressing it and 
 how many cycles you put on it daily.  

 2.  Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have?

 Nitto is going to say what they say because they generate these S-N curves 
 and test the heck out of their products.  They do see parts fail after lots 
 of cycles, and what they recommend is going to be conservative.  When Nitto 
 says 5 years, I think 20.  I do not think 50 years.  You don't know when 
 your bars are going to fail unless you know REALLY accurately what the 
 loading history of your bars is.  In other words, you have no idea. 
  Anybody who decides to buy and ride used equipment assumes some additional 
 risk because you just don't know for sure what the history is.  If you 
 think you would feel a lot more comfortable replacing your handlebars, then 
 I'd say do it.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 12:50:43 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:

 In a cool interview with Nitto exec Mr. Yoshikawa, Grant asks this 
 question. Nitto exec leaves it up to consumer. So I was wondering if 
 anything to be concerned about. Anyone know anything about aluminum bar 
 life?
 Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have? Don't want any 
 accidents.



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[RBW] Re: In Praise of The Rambo

2013-03-18 Thread Joe Bernard
You're right, my blue Ramby is clearly slower than the orange ones. Of 
course, the motor has *nothing* to do with this. ;-)

On Monday, March 18, 2013 11:16:16 AM UTC-7, William wrote:

 Not only that, but every bike that has ever been always rides better and 
 rides faster when it is Orange.  FACT

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 11:09:06 AM UTC-7, Evan wrote:

 The orange Rambouillet is the best-looking bike ever. Fact. :)



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[RBW] Re: Glorius and Wilbury

2013-03-18 Thread Joe Bernard
I got a price quote from Dave at Riv. Built by Mark Nobilette, $3000 for a 
DD paint job and Glorius/Wilbury decals and headbadge; $3500 for Joe Bell 
paint and Rivendell decals.

On Monday, March 18, 2013 9:54:39 AM UTC-7, William wrote:

 The original tentacular stays, right?

 Stay tentacular would be a good button.  

 On Sunday, March 17, 2013 8:09:31 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:

 This has already been posted in Legolas!, but I thought it was worth 
 its own thread. The Glorius and Wilbury with their super-fancy lugs are 
 still available as customs. I want one!
  
 *http://www.flickr.com/photos/archivalclothing/320216954/*http://www.flickr.com/photos/archivalclothing/320216954/
  
 Joe Bernard
 Vallejo, CA.
  
  
  



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[RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-18 Thread William
Jim

I think that's what I said.  The cycle life is determined by how it's 
loaded, and is captured on an S-N curve.  You are correct that a tiny load 
is at the ultra-long life end of the S-N curve.  If the S-N curve tells us 
that the cycle life is 50million cycles, and if you do 100,000 cycles per 
year, then Bob's your uncle, it's 500 years of life.  

For all us (relatively) normal people, we have no clue what cycle we are 
on.  So we are left with judgement.  Like I weigh 170, and I don't reef on 
my bars too hard, so I think I'll worry after 20 years or when I notice my 
bars sagging, whichever comes first.  Someone else may decide I weigh 
110, and it's a path bike.  I'll never replace bars out of fear.  Finally, 
another person might say I weigh 240 and sprint to every single city limit 
sign, and climb out of the saddle on my fixie on every hill.  5 years 
sounds like a good plan

The thing that shocks me is how often I see people using bars that are 
visibly sagging.  The tops of the handlebars drooping downward, and the 
hooks no longer parallel.  That's scary.  

On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:21:42 PM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:

 The number of years is irrelevant. Some skinny person who rides upright 
 and gingerly on smooth roads 5 miles per week is going to get 500 years out 
 of the bar. 

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 4:10:09 PM UTC-5, William wrote:

 You pose two questions:

 1.  Anyone know anything about aluminum bar life?

 I know a little bit about fatigue life of materials.  Any metal that is 
 cyclicly loaded will fatigue and fail eventually.  Just about every metal 
 has a similar look to it on an S-N curve (Wikipedia that for an 
 explanation).  The take home is that almost everything eventually wears out 
 and fails.  It's just a matter of when.  Steel is a notable exception.  If 
 steel is cyclicly loaded at a low enough Stress, then it essentially never 
 fatigues.  Incredible stuff.  Anyway, Aluminum does fatigue and 
 fail...eventually.  When?  It depends on how much you are stressing it and 
 how many cycles you put on it daily.  

 2.  Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have?

 Nitto is going to say what they say because they generate these S-N 
 curves and test the heck out of their products.  They do see parts fail 
 after lots of cycles, and what they recommend is going to be conservative. 
  When Nitto says 5 years, I think 20.  I do not think 50 years.  You don't 
 know when your bars are going to fail unless you know REALLY accurately 
 what the loading history of your bars is.  In other words, you have no 
 idea.  Anybody who decides to buy and ride used equipment assumes some 
 additional risk because you just don't know for sure what the history is. 
  If you think you would feel a lot more comfortable replacing your 
 handlebars, then I'd say do it.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 12:50:43 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:

 In a cool interview with Nitto exec Mr. Yoshikawa, Grant asks this 
 question. Nitto exec leaves it up to consumer. So I was wondering if 
 anything to be concerned about. Anyone know anything about aluminum bar 
 life?
 Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have? Don't want any 
 accidents.



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Re: [RBW] Optimal clearance for metal fenders...

2013-03-18 Thread René Sterental
Thanks for the feedback.

I have no problem fitting 60mm Berthoud fenders on my Hunqapillar to use
with 50mm Marathon Dureme or equivalent tires. In fact, I have so much
clearance, that my question really intended to ask how much is needed to
really minimize the risk of a rock, piece of gravel or stick to get stuck
when riding off-road, and if having too much clearance between the tire and
the metal fender just meant that larger and potentially larger rocks could
get stuck.

I've already fitted both fenders to what I decided was optimal for both
looks and clearance, and will post photos when the build is complete,
unless someone wants to see something faster than that. I'm taking my sweet
time to both enjoy it to the max as well as to ensure I make no mistakes.

I'm also debating whether to go with my original plan to have the
24/40/Guard Sugino crankset which is forcing me to go with a wider BB,
going down to 24/38/Guard to increase the clearance between the 38 and the
chainstay or just go back the the 24/36/46 triple I had, maybe even going
24/36/Guard as I never seem to use the 46...suggestions welcome!

René


On Mon, Mar 18, 2013 at 11:37 AM, Shoji Takahashi shoji.takaha...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Lovelybike has info on a Surly Cross Check with Fat Franks and VO
 Zeppelins. (Lots of pics.)

 http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2011/06/surly-cross-check-review-colourful.html

 She mentions: On the downside, the clearances between the tires and
 fenders are so tight, that the set-up is not really practical for serious
 off-road cycling: stuff can get caught in there and cause problems. But for
 fire trails and gravel paths it is fine...

 I don't think I would do this with knobbies.

 Good luck-- looking forward to the pics of the build.
 Shoji



 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:09:53 PM UTC-4, AaronY wrote:

 Bob,

 What size were the hammered fenders?  The largest size I can find on the
 VO site is a 47 which could be the reason that a 47 tire would have
 difficulty fitting with sufficient clearance.  If you really want metal
 fenders they have the Zeppelin style in 52, but that might even be a tight
 fit for Rene's 50 mm Duremes. Here's a link to their fender page. I

 http://store.velo-orange.com/**index.php/accessories/fenders.**html?p=1http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/fenders.html?p=1

 In the past my metal fenders have all been from VO and I've been happy
 with them.

 Aaron Young
 Vancouver, WA

 On Sunday, March 17, 2013, Robert Barr wrote:

 Rene,

 I struggled with the fenders on my Hunqapillar. My thoughtful wife
 bought me some hammered VOs as a gift because I had mentioned that I
 thought they would look great on the Hunq. And they would have -  but with
 47-622 Marathons there wasn't a mm to spare. My normal commute takes me
 down a gravel trail with stones and sticks. I fret the sticks more than the
 stones. After several attempts to fit the VOs (two sizes and lots of
 thinking..). I had to go back to my tried and true SKS. They  worked best
 for me and where I ride. Good luck...

 Bob


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[RBW] Re: In Praise of The Rambo

2013-03-18 Thread Michael Hechmer
I have a 62 All purpose orange (Ebisu calls it Moltini Orange; I call it 
Creamsicle) which I am about to put on the market.  Just in case you are 
lusting for a great riding orange bike.
*
*
I tried to talk GP into selling me an orange AHH with cantis and a few 
different braze ons, but it became acustom and outa my price range.



On Monday, March 18, 2013 5:32:18 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:

 You're right, my blue Ramby is clearly slower than the orange ones. Of 
 course, the motor has *nothing* to do with this. ;-)

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 11:16:16 AM UTC-7, William wrote:

 Not only that, but every bike that has ever been always rides better and 
 rides faster when it is Orange.  FACT

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 11:09:06 AM UTC-7, Evan wrote:

 The orange Rambouillet is the best-looking bike ever. Fact. :)



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[RBW] Re: Saluki Brake / Rack Mating Question

2013-03-18 Thread Michael Hechmer
Thanks for all the help; it both clarified the issues and lifted me out of 
a stuck place.

I had thought about the spacer solution, but living out in the boonies I 
thought tracking down an M5x35 allen head bolt and a 20 mm spacer seemed 
unlikely.  As luck would have it, I had to go into town ( 45 miles round 
trip) today and much to my surprise  Sticks and Stuff actually had the 
parts I needed!

Jetising the Paul's was never really an option, one because they are the 
easiest cantis to set up and live with ever and two because I owe them my 
life, literally.  (Stopped alive in front of the dreaded right hook.) 
 Anyway almost all my bikes have Paul's brakes - the Ram has Racer Ms and 
the tandem studed Racers.  Only my old racing bike has Chorus, and my 
wife's has Superbe.

Anyway things are back together, but I am still wondering if I wouldn't be 
better off swapping the rack with the Nitto Mini ( I misspoke when I wrote 
M12) which is now on the Ebisu I am preparing for sale.  One bolts to the 
fork and one to the brake.

Michael

On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:06:56 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 It would be cool if you could get the canti-post struts separately so you 
 could run a Mark's Rack with the canti-post mounting, but still had 
 adjustable struts so you could accommodate high-stack brakes, like the 
 Pauls.  Unfortunately, it looks like you can only buy those struts in 70mm 
 an 120mm lengths, which is not going to be long enough.  That would have 
 been a slick setup.  

 http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_infoproducts_id=7978



 On Sunday, March 17, 2013 8:25:33 PM UTC-7, William wrote:

 I would advise ditching the Paul brakes.  The Tektros are fine and will 
 play nice with the rack.  If you have mid fork braze ons so that a Nitto 
 Mini Front would fit, then that could present an option, but an M12 won't 
 be any better on Paul brakes than that VO is.  Paul has way too much stack 
 up.



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[RBW] FS/T: Nitto Bullmoose Bar, 200mm, Unpainted

2013-03-18 Thread Jeremy Till
For sale is one pair of lightly used (maybe 500 miles) Nitto Bullmoose Bars 
from the original batch, in the longer 200mm extension, lovingly brazed by 
some little old lady in the Nitto factory.  This pair is unpainted, so you 
can admire the beautiful brazing work for yourself.  They were on my 
original Quickbeam build: 

http://handlebarchronicles.blogspot.com/2012/09/bikes-rivendell-quickbeam.html

In an effort to protect them from rust but maintain the bare metal look, I 
sprayed them with some cheap hardware store clearcoat before riding them, 
but that proved largely ineffective against the moist Bay Area air, and 
they developed some rust over the couple of months I used them.  I then 
switched to a similar but narrower flat bar on a conventional quill stem, 
mostly for fit reasons.  To prepare them for selling, I took them out today 
and cleaned them up with a brillo pad, removing the clear coat and rust.  
Pictures in the current condition are here: 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/85709120@N07/sets/72157633031173450/

A great bar for your color-matched Hunq or Bomba build!  Asking $100, with 
local pickup in the SF Bay Area (Berkeley) preferred.  Additionally, I 
would trade for a pair of Bosco Bullmoose handlebars.  

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[RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-18 Thread Philip Williamson
So aluminum bars sag before breaking? I only ask, because I'm a 250 lb guy 
using 25 year old WTB offroad drops on a fixed gear bike... offroad 
sometimes. 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/philipwilliamson/8547042814/

Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:49:21 PM UTC-7, William wrote:

 Jim

 I think that's what I said.  The cycle life is determined by how it's 
 loaded, and is captured on an S-N curve.  You are correct that a tiny load 
 is at the ultra-long life end of the S-N curve.  If the S-N curve tells us 
 that the cycle life is 50million cycles, and if you do 100,000 cycles per 
 year, then Bob's your uncle, it's 500 years of life.  

 For all us (relatively) normal people, we have no clue what cycle we are 
 on.  So we are left with judgement.  Like I weigh 170, and I don't reef on 
 my bars too hard, so I think I'll worry after 20 years or when I notice my 
 bars sagging, whichever comes first.  Someone else may decide I weigh 
 110, and it's a path bike.  I'll never replace bars out of fear.  Finally, 
 another person might say I weigh 240 and sprint to every single city limit 
 sign, and climb out of the saddle on my fixie on every hill.  5 years 
 sounds like a good plan

 The thing that shocks me is how often I see people using bars that are 
 visibly sagging.  The tops of the handlebars drooping downward, and the 
 hooks no longer parallel.  That's scary.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:21:42 PM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
 wrote:

 The number of years is irrelevant. Some skinny person who rides upright 
 and gingerly on smooth roads 5 miles per week is going to get 500 years out 
 of the bar. 

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 4:10:09 PM UTC-5, William wrote:

 You pose two questions:

 1.  Anyone know anything about aluminum bar life?

 I know a little bit about fatigue life of materials.  Any metal that is 
 cyclicly loaded will fatigue and fail eventually.  Just about every metal 
 has a similar look to it on an S-N curve (Wikipedia that for an 
 explanation).  The take home is that almost everything eventually wears out 
 and fails.  It's just a matter of when.  Steel is a notable exception.  If 
 steel is cyclicly loaded at a low enough Stress, then it essentially never 
 fatigues.  Incredible stuff.  Anyway, Aluminum does fatigue and 
 fail...eventually.  When?  It depends on how much you are stressing it and 
 how many cycles you put on it daily.  

 2.  Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have?

 Nitto is going to say what they say because they generate these S-N 
 curves and test the heck out of their products.  They do see parts fail 
 after lots of cycles, and what they recommend is going to be conservative. 
  When Nitto says 5 years, I think 20.  I do not think 50 years.  You don't 
 know when your bars are going to fail unless you know REALLY accurately 
 what the loading history of your bars is.  In other words, you have no 
 idea.  Anybody who decides to buy and ride used equipment assumes some 
 additional risk because you just don't know for sure what the history is. 
  If you think you would feel a lot more comfortable replacing your 
 handlebars, then I'd say do it.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 12:50:43 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:

 In a cool interview with Nitto exec Mr. Yoshikawa, Grant asks this 
 question. Nitto exec leaves it up to consumer. So I was wondering if 
 anything to be concerned about. Anyone know anything about aluminum bar 
 life?
 Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have? Don't want any 
 accidents.



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[RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-18 Thread Jeremy Till
Oh man, those bars are hella warped, look at how flared they are!  Must be 
a deathtrap.  You should send them to me immediately for proper disposal.  

On Monday, March 18, 2013 4:15:07 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote:

 So aluminum bars sag before breaking? I only ask, because I'm a 250 lb guy 
 using 25 year old WTB offroad drops on a fixed gear bike... offroad 
 sometimes. 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/philipwilliamson/8547042814/

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:49:21 PM UTC-7, William wrote:

 Jim

 I think that's what I said.  The cycle life is determined by how it's 
 loaded, and is captured on an S-N curve.  You are correct that a tiny load 
 is at the ultra-long life end of the S-N curve.  If the S-N curve tells us 
 that the cycle life is 50million cycles, and if you do 100,000 cycles per 
 year, then Bob's your uncle, it's 500 years of life.  

 For all us (relatively) normal people, we have no clue what cycle we are 
 on.  So we are left with judgement.  Like I weigh 170, and I don't reef on 
 my bars too hard, so I think I'll worry after 20 years or when I notice my 
 bars sagging, whichever comes first.  Someone else may decide I weigh 
 110, and it's a path bike.  I'll never replace bars out of fear.  Finally, 
 another person might say I weigh 240 and sprint to every single city limit 
 sign, and climb out of the saddle on my fixie on every hill.  5 years 
 sounds like a good plan

 The thing that shocks me is how often I see people using bars that are 
 visibly sagging.  The tops of the handlebars drooping downward, and the 
 hooks no longer parallel.  That's scary.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:21:42 PM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
 wrote:

 The number of years is irrelevant. Some skinny person who rides upright 
 and gingerly on smooth roads 5 miles per week is going to get 500 years out 
 of the bar. 

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 4:10:09 PM UTC-5, William wrote:

 You pose two questions:

 1.  Anyone know anything about aluminum bar life?

 I know a little bit about fatigue life of materials.  Any metal that is 
 cyclicly loaded will fatigue and fail eventually.  Just about every metal 
 has a similar look to it on an S-N curve (Wikipedia that for an 
 explanation).  The take home is that almost everything eventually wears 
 out 
 and fails.  It's just a matter of when.  Steel is a notable exception.  If 
 steel is cyclicly loaded at a low enough Stress, then it essentially never 
 fatigues.  Incredible stuff.  Anyway, Aluminum does fatigue and 
 fail...eventually.  When?  It depends on how much you are stressing it and 
 how many cycles you put on it daily.  

 2.  Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have?

 Nitto is going to say what they say because they generate these S-N 
 curves and test the heck out of their products.  They do see parts fail 
 after lots of cycles, and what they recommend is going to be conservative. 
  When Nitto says 5 years, I think 20.  I do not think 50 years.  You don't 
 know when your bars are going to fail unless you know REALLY accurately 
 what the loading history of your bars is.  In other words, you have no 
 idea.  Anybody who decides to buy and ride used equipment assumes some 
 additional risk because you just don't know for sure what the history is. 
  If you think you would feel a lot more comfortable replacing your 
 handlebars, then I'd say do it.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 12:50:43 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:

 In a cool interview with Nitto exec Mr. Yoshikawa, Grant asks this 
 question. Nitto exec leaves it up to consumer. So I was wondering if 
 anything to be concerned about. Anyone know anything about aluminum bar 
 life?
 Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have? Don't want 
 any accidents.



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[RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-18 Thread William
I don't know if they sag before breaking, but I do know aluminum has a 
cycle life.  It merely scares me to see folks riding bars that are badly 
and symmetrically bent, clearly from tons and tons of use.  

Your offroad fixie is gorgeous, and I trust your judgement.  The tinker can 
smell fatigue, and that's a fact. 

On Monday, March 18, 2013 4:15:07 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote:

 So aluminum bars sag before breaking? I only ask, because I'm a 250 lb guy 
 using 25 year old WTB offroad drops on a fixed gear bike... offroad 
 sometimes. 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/philipwilliamson/8547042814/

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:49:21 PM UTC-7, William wrote:

 Jim

 I think that's what I said.  The cycle life is determined by how it's 
 loaded, and is captured on an S-N curve.  You are correct that a tiny load 
 is at the ultra-long life end of the S-N curve.  If the S-N curve tells us 
 that the cycle life is 50million cycles, and if you do 100,000 cycles per 
 year, then Bob's your uncle, it's 500 years of life.  

 For all us (relatively) normal people, we have no clue what cycle we are 
 on.  So we are left with judgement.  Like I weigh 170, and I don't reef on 
 my bars too hard, so I think I'll worry after 20 years or when I notice my 
 bars sagging, whichever comes first.  Someone else may decide I weigh 
 110, and it's a path bike.  I'll never replace bars out of fear.  Finally, 
 another person might say I weigh 240 and sprint to every single city limit 
 sign, and climb out of the saddle on my fixie on every hill.  5 years 
 sounds like a good plan

 The thing that shocks me is how often I see people using bars that are 
 visibly sagging.  The tops of the handlebars drooping downward, and the 
 hooks no longer parallel.  That's scary.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:21:42 PM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
 wrote:

 The number of years is irrelevant. Some skinny person who rides upright 
 and gingerly on smooth roads 5 miles per week is going to get 500 years out 
 of the bar. 

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 4:10:09 PM UTC-5, William wrote:

 You pose two questions:

 1.  Anyone know anything about aluminum bar life?

 I know a little bit about fatigue life of materials.  Any metal that is 
 cyclicly loaded will fatigue and fail eventually.  Just about every metal 
 has a similar look to it on an S-N curve (Wikipedia that for an 
 explanation).  The take home is that almost everything eventually wears 
 out 
 and fails.  It's just a matter of when.  Steel is a notable exception.  If 
 steel is cyclicly loaded at a low enough Stress, then it essentially never 
 fatigues.  Incredible stuff.  Anyway, Aluminum does fatigue and 
 fail...eventually.  When?  It depends on how much you are stressing it and 
 how many cycles you put on it daily.  

 2.  Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have?

 Nitto is going to say what they say because they generate these S-N 
 curves and test the heck out of their products.  They do see parts fail 
 after lots of cycles, and what they recommend is going to be conservative. 
  When Nitto says 5 years, I think 20.  I do not think 50 years.  You don't 
 know when your bars are going to fail unless you know REALLY accurately 
 what the loading history of your bars is.  In other words, you have no 
 idea.  Anybody who decides to buy and ride used equipment assumes some 
 additional risk because you just don't know for sure what the history is. 
  If you think you would feel a lot more comfortable replacing your 
 handlebars, then I'd say do it.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 12:50:43 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:

 In a cool interview with Nitto exec Mr. Yoshikawa, Grant asks this 
 question. Nitto exec leaves it up to consumer. So I was wondering if 
 anything to be concerned about. Anyone know anything about aluminum bar 
 life?
 Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have? Don't want 
 any accidents.



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[RBW] Re: Saluki Brake / Rack Mating Question

2013-03-18 Thread William
Oh, yes!  If your 'luki has the mid-fork braze-ons and you have a Nitto 
Mini rack already, absolutely go that route.  

On Monday, March 18, 2013 3:24:50 PM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 Thanks for all the help; it both clarified the issues and lifted me out of 
 a stuck place.

 I had thought about the spacer solution, but living out in the boonies I 
 thought tracking down an M5x35 allen head bolt and a 20 mm spacer seemed 
 unlikely.  As luck would have it, I had to go into town ( 45 miles round 
 trip) today and much to my surprise  Sticks and Stuff actually had the 
 parts I needed!

 Jetising the Paul's was never really an option, one because they are the 
 easiest cantis to set up and live with ever and two because I owe them my 
 life, literally.  (Stopped alive in front of the dreaded right hook.) 
  Anyway almost all my bikes have Paul's brakes - the Ram has Racer Ms and 
 the tandem studed Racers.  Only my old racing bike has Chorus, and my 
 wife's has Superbe.

 Anyway things are back together, but I am still wondering if I wouldn't be 
 better off swapping the rack with the Nitto Mini ( I misspoke when I wrote 
 M12) which is now on the Ebisu I am preparing for sale.  One bolts to the 
 fork and one to the brake.

 Michael

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:06:56 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 It would be cool if you could get the canti-post struts separately so you 
 could run a Mark's Rack with the canti-post mounting, but still had 
 adjustable struts so you could accommodate high-stack brakes, like the 
 Pauls.  Unfortunately, it looks like you can only buy those struts in 70mm 
 an 120mm lengths, which is not going to be long enough.  That would have 
 been a slick setup.  

 http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_infoproducts_id=7978



 On Sunday, March 17, 2013 8:25:33 PM UTC-7, William wrote:

 I would advise ditching the Paul brakes.  The Tektros are fine and will 
 play nice with the rack.  If you have mid fork braze ons so that a Nitto 
 Mini Front would fit, then that could present an option, but an M12 won't 
 be any better on Paul brakes than that VO is.  Paul has way too much stack 
 up.



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[RBW] Re: In Praise of The Rambo

2013-03-18 Thread Greg J
It happened to me about a month ago, too.  I took my son out to ride on 
some trails (the East/West Ridge Trail in Oakland), and I rode my wife's 
orange Ramb with albatross bars because it has fat tires (I think Avocet 
Cross 35s?). My old MTB was not in ridable condition, and I felt like a 
change from my drop bar bikes.
 
I had 2 people come up and compliment the bike.  That rarely happens when I 
ride my other, albeit equally nice, bikes --- Bruce Gordons or old Ritchey 
sport tourer.  That Riv mystique!
 
 
 
 

On Monday, March 18, 2013 3:13:03 PM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 I have a 62 All purpose orange (Ebisu calls it Moltini Orange; I call it 
 Creamsicle) which I am about to put on the market.  Just in case you are 
 lusting for a great riding orange bike. 
 *
 *
 I tried to talk GP into selling me an orange AHH with cantis and a few 
 different braze ons, but it became acustom and outa my price range.



 On Monday, March 18, 2013 5:32:18 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote: 

 You're right, my blue Ramby is clearly slower than the orange ones. Of 
 course, the motor has *nothing* to do with this. ;-)

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 11:16:16 AM UTC-7, William wrote:

 Not only that, but every bike that has ever been always rides better and 
 rides faster when it is Orange.  FACT

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 11:09:06 AM UTC-7, Evan wrote: 

 The orange Rambouillet is the best-looking bike ever. Fact. :)



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RE: [RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
Wet.

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Deacon Patrick
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2013 3:26 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

Guinness, for health! Though it looks like Guinness, you are outfitted to carry 
whisky. Impressive. What's your preference?

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, March 18, 2013 10:43:12 AM UTC-6, Pudge wrote:
I've been tinkering with a Rohloff build on my repainted Bombadil for a long 
time, trying to make an after-market eccentric bottom bracket work.  It never 
came together satisfyingly, so I gave up and ordered a Rohloff chain tensioner. 
 I built it up over the weekend - here it is: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567470700/in/photostream.  And here: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567485276/in/photostream/

Those are the new Fatty Rumpkins, which ride really well - the toughness is not 
at much cost, in terms of ride quality.  I'm really pleased with the build.  In 
a 10 mile test ride yesterday, everything worked together seamlessly - except I 
haven't been able to shift into the lowest gear, meaning I have that unique 13 
speed Rohloff.



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[RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Joe Bernard
Wow. That is a *stunning* bicycle. For some reason I get a WWII military 
motorcycle vibe out of it. Very cool.
 
Joe Bernard
Vallejo, CA.

On Monday, March 18, 2013 9:43:12 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:

  I’ve been tinkering with a Rohloff build on my repainted Bombadil for a 
 long time, trying to make an after-market eccentric bottom bracket work.  
 It never came together satisfyingly, so I gave up and ordered a Rohloff 
 chain tensioner.  I built it up over the weekend – here it is: 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567470700/in/photostream.  And 
 here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567485276/in/photostream/ 

  

 Those are the new Fatty Rumpkins, which ride really well – the toughness 
 is not at much cost, in terms of ride quality.  I’m really pleased with the 
 build.  In a 10 mile test ride yesterday, everything worked together 
 seamlessly – except I haven’t been able to shift into the lowest gear, 
 meaning I have that unique 13 speed Rohloff.

  

  
  
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RE: [RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
Thanks to all for the generous comments.  Now I gotta go get some miles on the 
thing!

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Joe Bernard
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2013 7:47 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

Wow. That is a stunning bicycle. For some reason I get a WWII military 
motorcycle vibe out of it. Very cool.

Joe Bernard
Vallejo, CA.

On Monday, March 18, 2013 9:43:12 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:
I've been tinkering with a Rohloff build on my repainted Bombadil for a long 
time, trying to make an after-market eccentric bottom bracket work.  It never 
came together satisfyingly, so I gave up and ordered a Rohloff chain tensioner. 
 I built it up over the weekend - here it is: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567470700/in/photostream.  And here: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567485276/in/photostream/

Those are the new Fatty Rumpkins, which ride really well - the toughness is not 
at much cost, in terms of ride quality.  I'm really pleased with the build.  In 
a 10 mile test ride yesterday, everything worked together seamlessly - except I 
haven't been able to shift into the lowest gear, meaning I have that unique 13 
speed Rohloff.



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[RBW] Re: Glorius and Wilbury

2013-03-18 Thread William
That would be awfully swank.  Help keep RBW tentacular.  

On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:42:33 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:

 I got a price quote from Dave at Riv. Built by Mark Nobilette, $3000 for a 
 DD paint job and Glorius/Wilbury decals and headbadge; $3500 for Joe Bell 
 paint and Rivendell decals.

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 9:54:39 AM UTC-7, William wrote:

 The original tentacular stays, right?

 Stay tentacular would be a good button.  

 On Sunday, March 17, 2013 8:09:31 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:

 This has already been posted in Legolas!, but I thought it was worth 
 its own thread. The Glorius and Wilbury with their super-fancy lugs are 
 still available as customs. I want one!
  
 *http://www.flickr.com/photos/archivalclothing/320216954/*http://www.flickr.com/photos/archivalclothing/320216954/
  
 Joe Bernard
 Vallejo, CA.
  
  
  



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Re: [RBW] Optimal clearance for metal fenders...

2013-03-18 Thread Eric Platt
Rene,

Everyone might have different levels of comfort for fender clearance.  On
my one bike with 60mm Berthoud fenders and 50mm Marathon Dureme tires, I
find it to be a fairly close fit.  Mind you, this is a Surly LHT, not a
Rivendell, so it's really apples and oranges.  On another bike, have 52mm
VO fenders and 40mm wide studded tires are probably too wide to be
considered totally safe, although haven't had much in the way of trouble so
far.

My usual setup is to take a 10mm allen wrench and put it between the tire
and the fender for setup.  Probably could (should?) go closer, but have had
a few rock issues over the years due to my preference for heavily treaded
tires.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Mon, Mar 18, 2013 at 5:01 PM, René Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks for the feedback.

 I have no problem fitting 60mm Berthoud fenders on my Hunqapillar to use
 with 50mm Marathon Dureme or equivalent tires. In fact, I have so much
 clearance, that my question really intended to ask how much is needed to
 really minimize the risk of a rock, piece of gravel or stick to get stuck
 when riding off-road, and if having too much clearance between the tire and
 the metal fender just meant that larger and potentially larger rocks could
 get stuck.

 I've already fitted both fenders to what I decided was optimal for both
 looks and clearance, and will post photos when the build is complete,
 unless someone wants to see something faster than that. I'm taking my sweet
 time to both enjoy it to the max as well as to ensure I make no mistakes.

 I'm also debating whether to go with my original plan to have the
 24/40/Guard Sugino crankset which is forcing me to go with a wider BB,
 going down to 24/38/Guard to increase the clearance between the 38 and the
 chainstay or just go back the the 24/36/46 triple I had, maybe even going
 24/36/Guard as I never seem to use the 46...suggestions welcome!

 René






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Re: [RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-18 Thread Eric Platt
Philip - very nice looking bike.  Have had one set of bars fail years ago,
but they were flat bars on a mountain bike.  Will admit to thinking about
this as I put a used set of 48cm Nitto Noodles on my SimpleOne this
spring.  Hopefully they will last another year or two.

On my drop bar bikes, will probably change them after a few years.  Might
be a good reason to go for steel bars in the future.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Mon, Mar 18, 2013 at 6:32 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 I don't know if they sag before breaking, but I do know aluminum has a
 cycle life.  It merely scares me to see folks riding bars that are badly
 and symmetrically bent, clearly from tons and tons of use.

 Your offroad fixie is gorgeous, and I trust your judgement.  The tinker
 can smell fatigue, and that's a fact.





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Re: [RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Eric Platt
Add me to the chorus - stunning.  Have loved every one of the black
Rivendell bikes I've seen.  Great build-up with the Rolhoff.  One of those
is on my all time wish list.  Not sure it will ever happen, though.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Mon, Mar 18, 2013 at 6:48 PM, Allingham II, Thomas J 
thomas.alling...@skadden.com wrote:

  Thanks to all for the generous comments.  Now I gotta go get some miles
 on the thing!

 ** **

 *From:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:
 rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Joe Bernard
 *Sent:* Monday, March 18, 2013 7:47 PM

 *To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 *Subject:* [RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

 ** **

 Wow. That is a *stunning* bicycle. For some reason I get a WWII military
 motorcycle vibe out of it. Very cool.

  

 Joe Bernard

 Vallejo, CA.


 On Monday, March 18, 2013 9:43:12 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:

  I’ve been tinkering with a Rohloff build on my repainted Bombadil for a
 long time, trying to make an after-market eccentric bottom bracket work.
 It never came together satisfyingly, so I gave up and ordered a Rohloff
 chain tensioner.  I built it up over the weekend – here it is:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567470700/in/photostream.  And
 here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567485276/in/photostream/
 

  

 Those are the new Fatty Rumpkins, which ride really well – the toughness
 is not at much cost, in terms of ride quality.  I’m really pleased with the
 build.  In a 10 mile test ride yesterday, everything worked together
 seamlessly – except I haven’t been able to shift into the lowest gear,
 meaning I have that unique 13 speed Rohloff.

  

  

 --
 

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 contained in this message was not intended or written to be used, and
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 or (ii) promoting, marketing or recommending to another party any
 tax-related matters addressed herein.
 
 

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Re: [RBW] Optimal clearance for metal fenders...

2013-03-18 Thread Robert Barr
Aaron - You are correct about the VO sizes, I was trying to make the
hammered finish VO 45s work. I really like the hammered look... don't care
much for the smoothies or Zeppelins. My Marathons, like most I have had,
run smaller than the listed size. My 47s, mounted and inflated barely make
41mm. So... with wishful thinking, I tried to make the 45mm VO fenders
work. They were too tight. Jitensha offers a 43mm hammered finish Honjo,
and Boulder noted that: A 50mm fender is great for those who use Grand
Bois 30mm tires but want the option to run something wider such as a 32mm
Panaracer Pasela... I believe Boulder's widest hammered finish was a 42,
which I presume is the same as Jitensha's 43. I might have made the width
work, but the Marathons are also tall. In the end the clearance was too
tight. My experience seems different from Rene's in that I am more
concerned about too tight, than too wide a fender line. That may be simply
a function of our environments. I believe Rene is Bay area, while I am in
Indiana. After every windy day - and we have a lot, my commute is a maze of
small limbs and sticks of every type. My daily commuter for the last
several years has been a thoroughly Riv'ed MB3. I have had countless small
sticks rattle off my SKS fenders and spill out of the too loose fender
line. A couple of bigger sticks have started to jamb, but I have managed to
stop before the fender broke loose. On several occasions I think a tight
metal fender might not have been good. But - it is all environment. If I
could stick to an asphalt trail or the road I would try harder to make the
hammered metal fender work - but that is not where I ride. Bob
(Indianapolis)


On Mon, Mar 18, 2013 at 2:09 PM, Aaron Young 1ce...@gmail.com wrote:

 Bob,

 What size were the hammered fenders?  The largest size I can find on the
 VO site is a 47 which could be the reason that a 47 tire would have
 difficulty fitting with sufficient clearance.  If you really want metal
 fenders they have the Zeppelin style in 52, but that might even be a tight
 fit for Rene's 50 mm Duremes. Here's a link to their fender page. I

 http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/fenders.html?p=1

 In the past my metal fenders have all been from VO and I've been happy
 with them.

 Aaron Young
 Vancouver, WA

 On Sunday, March 17, 2013, Robert Barr wrote:

 Rene,

 I struggled with the fenders on my Hunqapillar. My thoughtful wife bought
 me some hammered VOs as a gift because I had mentioned that I thought they
 would look great on the Hunq. And they would have -  but with 47-622
 Marathons there wasn't a mm to spare. My normal commute takes me down a
 gravel trail with stones and sticks. I fret the sticks more than the
 stones. After several attempts to fit the VOs (two sizes and lots of
 thinking..). I had to go back to my tried and true SKS. They  worked best
 for me and where I ride. Good luck...

 Bob


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[RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Ryan


On Monday, March 18, 2013 11:43:12 AM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:

  I’ve been tinkering with a Rohloff build on my repainted Bombadil for a 
 long time, trying to make an after-market eccentric bottom bracket work.  
 It never came together satisfyingly, so I gave up and ordered a Rohloff 
 chain tensioner.  I built it up over the weekend – here it is: 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567470700/in/photostream.  And 
 here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567485276/in/photostream/ 

  

 Those are the new Fatty Rumpkins, which ride really well – the toughness 
 is not at much cost, in terms of ride quality.  I’m really pleased with the 
 build.  In a 10 mile test ride yesterday, everything worked together 
 seamlessly – except I haven’t been able to shift into the lowest gear, 
 meaning I have that unique 13 speed Rohloff.

  

  
  
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[RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Ryan
Sorry...speechless. That looks like a Swiss Army bike for sure. I like the 
black. You could travel the world on thatneat components

If you don't mind me askinghow much does it weigh? For touring probably 
not much of an issue. It looks rugged. 

On Monday, March 18, 2013 11:43:12 AM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:

  I’ve been tinkering with a Rohloff build on my repainted Bombadil for a 
 long time, trying to make an after-market eccentric bottom bracket work.  
 It never came together satisfyingly, so I gave up and ordered a Rohloff 
 chain tensioner.  I built it up over the weekend – here it is: 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567470700/in/photostream.  And 
 here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567485276/in/photostream/ 

  

 Those are the new Fatty Rumpkins, which ride really well – the toughness 
 is not at much cost, in terms of ride quality.  I’m really pleased with the 
 build.  In a 10 mile test ride yesterday, everything worked together 
 seamlessly – except I haven’t been able to shift into the lowest gear, 
 meaning I have that unique 13 speed Rohloff.

  

  
  
 --
  
 

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 that, unless otherwise expressly indicated, any federal tax advice 
 contained in this message was not intended or written to be used, and 
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 the Internal Revenue Code or applicable state or local tax law provisions 
 or (ii) promoting, marketing or recommending to another party any 
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RE: [RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
I'm going to weigh it with full complement of bags - a Sackville Saddlesack 
Large in the front and a Medium in the front (in a large black Wald basket - it 
actually looks  pretty good, and makes a good quickly removable bag (good for 
commuting, and taking clothes down to office shower)).  I managed to find both 
bags in the very early run black canvas (because, you know... it's a BLACK 
bike).

Guessing?  It's pretty heavy - maybe 33 to 35 pounds?  Rides like a champ, 
though - it doesn't feel heavy or sluggish at all.



From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Ryan
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2013 9:10 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

Sorry...speechless. That looks like a Swiss Army bike for sure. I like the 
black. You could travel the world on thatneat components

If you don't mind me askinghow much does it weigh? For touring probably not 
much of an issue. It looks rugged.

On Monday, March 18, 2013 11:43:12 AM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:
I've been tinkering with a Rohloff build on my repainted Bombadil for a long 
time, trying to make an after-market eccentric bottom bracket work.  It never 
came together satisfyingly, so I gave up and ordered a Rohloff chain tensioner. 
 I built it up over the weekend - here it is: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567470700/in/photostream.  And here: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567485276/in/photostream/

Those are the new Fatty Rumpkins, which ride really well - the toughness is not 
at much cost, in terms of ride quality.  I'm really pleased with the build.  In 
a 10 mile test ride yesterday, everything worked together seamlessly - except I 
haven't been able to shift into the lowest gear, meaning I have that unique 13 
speed Rohloff.



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RE: [RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
BTW - this build shows off how very versatile Riv frames are.  Compare v. 1.0 
with the current build - very different, both great rides.

1.0:  
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4249456177/in/set-72157624552118742/

Current:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8566375015/in/photostream


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Allingham II, Thomas J
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2013 9:15 PM
To: 'rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com'
Subject: RE: [RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

I'm going to weigh it with full complement of bags - a Sackville Saddlesack 
Large in the front and a Medium in the front (in a large black Wald basket - it 
actually looks  pretty good, and makes a good quickly removable bag (good for 
commuting, and taking clothes down to office shower)).  I managed to find both 
bags in the very early run black canvas (because, you know... it's a BLACK 
bike).

Guessing?  It's pretty heavy - maybe 33 to 35 pounds?  Rides like a champ, 
though - it doesn't feel heavy or sluggish at all.



From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Ryan
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2013 9:10 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

Sorry...speechless. That looks like a Swiss Army bike for sure. I like the 
black. You could travel the world on thatneat components

If you don't mind me askinghow much does it weigh? For touring probably not 
much of an issue. It looks rugged.

On Monday, March 18, 2013 11:43:12 AM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:
I've been tinkering with a Rohloff build on my repainted Bombadil for a long 
time, trying to make an after-market eccentric bottom bracket work.  It never 
came together satisfyingly, so I gave up and ordered a Rohloff chain tensioner. 
 I built it up over the weekend - here it is: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567470700/in/photostream.  And here: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/8567485276/in/photostream/

Those are the new Fatty Rumpkins, which ride really well - the toughness is not 
at much cost, in terms of ride quality.  I'm really pleased with the build.  In 
a 10 mile test ride yesterday, everything worked together seamlessly - except I 
haven't been able to shift into the lowest gear, meaning I have that unique 13 
speed Rohloff.



-- 


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unless otherwise expressly indicated, any federal tax advice contained in this 
message was not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for the 
purpose of (i) avoiding tax-related penalties under the Internal Revenue Code 
or applicable state or local tax law provisions or (ii) promoting, marketing or 
recommending to another party any tax-related matters addressed herein.



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[RBW] WTB: White Industries VBC crankset

2013-03-18 Thread ejg
While I realize it's a longshot I'm wondering if anyone has a used White 
Industries VBC crankset that they would like to sell? I'm looking for 170mm 
with 44/30 rings.  If I remember correctly someone on the list sold one 
recently. 
Thanks
EJG (Jason)

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RE: [RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
Black Bomba = just a riff on Kobe's self-appellation, Black Mamba...

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Montclair BobbyB
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2013 4:39 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

BEHOLD...BLACK BOMBA!!
I can see this was well worth the effort... I especially love the black rims 
and silver spokes... Simply awesome!!!
I hope you'll bring this on the Water Gap ride...

... along with the Mystery Bike,
... and your JP Weigle Raleigh...
... and your green Wilbury...

Oh, nevermind... just bring the Bomba




On Monday, March 18, 2013 4:10:28 PM UTC-4, Tom Harrop wrote:
What a beast! Great stuff.

I'm curious, what made you give up on the EBB?
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[RBW] Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
I'll take the excellent Rohloff chain tensioner over some cheesy eccentric BB 
any day.

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[RBW] FS 68cm Quickbeam

2013-03-18 Thread Kelly
One 68cm Quickbeam complete bike with extra set of wheels.   

Stock crank
Shimano dyno hub and lights
Sks fenders
Jack browns
Dirt drop and mustache bars
Nitto seat post ...
Front rack and Berthould bag
Everything in the photos but the saddle

The photos are high resolution that will tell the full story..the bike needs to 
be cleaned and dusted

Why I'm selling

Not sure and kinda asorta hope nobody takes me up on it ... 
Will buy more stuff basically, just repaired Bombadil and would like to reprint 
build AHH

How much...
2100.00  With up to 100 dollars in freight and boxing.If you want to 
return after getting it..3 days after recieving to decide you pay freight both 
ways.

That should cover it.  
Photos taken today
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tksleeper/sets/72157633031703828/

Note:  Price is non- negotiable unless you want to pay more.

It will not got to eBay or haver ice dropped .. I'll get to keep.

I can be reached at
Kelly Sleeper
314-799-4743
tkslee...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
PS: this has inspired me. I have a red Rohloff burning a hole in my pocket...

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Re: [RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-18 Thread Joe K
Oh, man, now you've got me thinking.  I took 20-year-old Modolo aluminum 
bars off my old Raleigh.  I'd crashed them into a telephone pole, yet 
there's no *visible* damage to the bars.  And so I put them on my new 
beater when I needed a wider bar a couple of months ago -- because I'm such 
a cheapskate.  Guess I'd better go and yank on them a bit to see if I 
detect any issues...

Joe K

On Monday, March 18, 2013 8:27:46 PM UTC-4, EricP wrote:

 Philip - very nice looking bike.  Have had one set of bars fail years ago, 
 but they were flat bars on a mountain bike.  Will admit to thinking about 
 this as I put a used set of 48cm Nitto Noodles on my SimpleOne this 
 spring.  Hopefully they will last another year or two.  
  
 On my drop bar bikes, will probably change them after a few years.  Might 
 be a good reason to go for steel bars in the future.  
  
 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN

 On Mon, Mar 18, 2013 at 6:32 PM, William tape...@gmail.com 
 javascript:wrote:

 I don't know if they sag before breaking, but I do know aluminum has a 
 cycle life.  It merely scares me to see folks riding bars that are badly 
 and symmetrically bent, clearly from tons and tons of use.  

 Your offroad fixie is gorgeous, and I trust your judgement.  The tinker 
 can smell fatigue, and that's a fact. 


  




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Re: [RBW] Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-18 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
Must be a really big pocket

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 18, 2013, at 11:43 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
thill@gmail.com wrote:

 PS: this has inspired me. I have a red Rohloff burning a hole in my pocket...
 
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