Re: [RBW] Bike and Hatchet First Aid

2014-10-29 Thread Leslie
I thought it was a Douglas Adams reference



On Tuesday, October 28, 2014 8:55:28 PM UTC-4, James Warren wrote:


 Is this a David Sedaris reference?


 On Oct 18, 2014, at 11:23 AM, cyclotourist wrote:

 A towel is the most important thing to carry.

 On Sat, Oct 18, 2014 at 8:20 AM, Curtis McKenzie cmc...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 Glad to hear all is ok.  It is prudent to be aware of what could happen 
 and to be prepared. 

 I carry a few band aides, tape, and some gauze along with my towel and 
 Irish straps. My towel and Irish straps could be used for any number of 
 potential injury situations.   My goal is airway, circulation and 
 stabilization. 

 Be safe,

 Curtis never ride without a towel McKenzie


 On Saturday, October 18, 2014, Tony DeFilippo vpi...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 Since early August I've had or have been close to others with some bad 
 luck on the bike and using a hatchet... I've been over the handlebars twice 
 and then this weekend a good friend put one of my axes (fiskars x15) into 
 his knee while splitting wood.  All's well in each case thank goodness 
 though two out of the incidents involved the emergency room and the Axe 
 wound required an ambulance.

 Prevention of these incidents is definitely worth discussion and I've 
 given each allot of thought in that regards but the recent issue with the 
 Axe really has me thinking hard about my first aid kit for the woods and 
 while on the bike...  We were lucky to have several level headed people 
 (couple of eagle scouts!) And the materials to improvise a tourniquet and 
 compression bandage.

 So as I've been pouring over trauma kits for my truck and campsite I 
 also started thinking that as a nearly every day commuter I should have 
 some kit with me on the bike just as I have repair tools for the bike.

 The things I'm thinking of so far include;

 -wound cleaner, alcohol wipes?
 -antibiotic ointment
 -sterile gauze bandages (typical road rash size)
 -conforming wrap or athletic wrap or medical tape
 -triangle bandage
 -small assortment of band aids
 -rubber gloves

 Would the following be overkill;
 -CAT style tourniquet
 -quick clot sponge or bandage
 -'Israeli' style compression bandage
 -trauma shears

 The scenario for this kit is urban commuting with professional emergency 
 responce time of 10 min or less, cell service at all times and the level of 
 training I have is relatively basic. (Scout and basic military level).  Oh 
 and it needs to fit in either a large saddle wedge, frame bag or other such 
 unobtrusive, stays on bike type location.

 What, if anything, do you guys include in your on bike kit?

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 - 700x55




  


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[RBW] Re: Anyone using the VO Rando rack with integrated decaler on their Rivbike?

2014-10-29 Thread Ron Mc
Mark, Anton, this.  The purpose of a decaleur is not to support the 
vertical mass of a bag, but to support the horizontal mass of the bag under 
dynamic loads.  The stays fight this war, too, but for now, let's pretend 
they don't.  

A sideways load on the bag acts like a wrench to twist the mount at the 
daruma or brake bolt.  Like a wrench, a very small reaction load at the 
decaleur overcomes a very large torsional load at the mounting bolt.  With 
an integral decaleur, there is no reaction load, and the entire twist is 
translated to the mounting bolt.  This is why an integral decaleur is no 
decaleur at all.  

On Tuesday, October 28, 2014 8:28:05 PM UTC-5, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
wrote:

 I tend to agree.  The decaleur and the tombstone serve positioning 
 functions, while the rack supports the weight.  I use a VO randonneur rack 
 and separate decaleur, and it works well.  Initially I thought the decaleur 
 too fragile, but it's held up well for two years now.  Its main function is 
 the same as the strings on an Acorn bag... To keep the top of the bag in 
 the correct position.  So long as the tombstone prevents the bottom of the 
 bag from shifting, the decaleur is fine.

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Re: [RBW] New to Me Rivendell Road (Standard)

2014-10-29 Thread Ron Mc
would have never though steel-blue tape on rust-brown paint - it looks 
great !!!

On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 8:09:34 AM UTC-5, Tim Gavin wrote:

 Here's a newer shot, as promised. 



 Wrong side, sorry.  We had just climbed up a steep, long grade across from 
 St. Paul, so catching my breath came before aesthetics.

 The sidewalls of the Lierres are more dingy a year later.  I commute a 1-2 
 days a week on this bike (1-2 days on other bikes), so the tires are 
 getting some miles on them.  They're a great tire but not great for 
 commuting; I get about 1 flat a month from glass shards.  The glass shards 
 seem to get caught in the zig-zag tread of the Lierre; I think they 
 wouldn't get caught as easily in the finer, file tread of the Loup Loup 
 Pass.

 The VO 650 x 45 mm fenders fit a little more closely than SKS P45's, and 
 they have less clearance due to nuts inside the fender.  But they look 
 nice, aren't noisy, and seem to hold their position well (maybe because 
 they're metal vs. chromo-plastic).  You'd have more clearance with VO 
 Zeppelin 650 x 52 mm fenders, and they should fit--but maybe with a little 
 crimping at the fork crown.  Or just go P45's, they're pretty easy.

 Enjoy the Road Standard, and share more pics when you have it built.  I 
 absolutely love the lugs, head badge, and the ride.  And the fact that it 
 says Rivendell on the down tube makes it easier to explain to people.

 On Tue, Oct 28, 2014 at 7:12 PM, WETH erlho...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 Tim, thanks for the photo.  The wheels/tires look nice on the bike.  It 
 helps as I wanted to get a sense proportionally how the smaller wheels and 
 larger tires would look on the frame.
 Bruce, I appreciate your information too about brakes, tires and the 
 conversion to 650b.  I am pleased that three of you  have done the 
 conversion and like the results.
 All the best,
 Erl

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[RBW] PSA: Gorgeous Custom on the 'Bay

2014-10-29 Thread cyclotourist
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201205334712

Stunning, absolutely stunning.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lower trail fork for Ram?

2014-10-29 Thread Patrick Moore
Joe (I think that's right): Thanks. I worry that while a fork with more
rake will solve the wandering problem, it will also affect the turn in
feeling that I like so much about the Rivendells I've ridden. I know that I
didn't like the turn in feeling of the Kogswell Porteur I rode; as for
the Herse, this was not as pronounced, but it was not a stellar handling
bike in my catalogue.

I'd not be carrying any significant front load except perhaps in
low-rider-mounted panniers.

I suppose the thing to do is to have Chauncey Matthews test ride the bike
and tell me what he thinks more rake would do to the turning behavior. I
should talk to him about the Fargo's fork, too.

Or perhaps just stop worrying about it and ride ...

On Tue, Oct 28, 2014 at 8:38 PM, 'Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch 
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com wrote:

 Patrick

 The handling symptoms you describe were what I was experiencing with a
 couple of high trail bikes that I use to carry loads, a Surly LHT (that is
 geometrically very similar to an Atlantis), and a Legolas. The LHT is my
 truck for camping, grocery shopping, and the like. The Legolas is being
 used as a road/dirt road Rando-style bike with a large handlebar bag and
 35mm tires. I bought replacement forks for both bikes from Tom Matchak
 http://tommatchakcycles.blogspot.com/search/label/Replacement%20Fork
 adding about an inch to the rake and dropping trail from 58-62 to 42 mm.
 The difference was subtle but distinct. Cornering was faster, more
 responsive, less locked-in. Slow uphill wondering disappeared. One benefit
 on both bikes was a loss of toe-overlap with fenders.

 Tom also made a custom rack for the Legolas. It is similar to to a Nitto
 M12 but is wider with a light mount and wire guide to the dynamo hub. Tom
 did a most excellent job with great communication and workmanship.

 Was it worth it? I think so. The bikes ride superbly. They were great
 bikes before. They behave a bit better now under very specific situations,
 but situations that are important to me.


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[RBW] Re: PSA: Gorgeous Custom on the 'Bay

2014-10-29 Thread Minh
Hmmm, sizing description is a little confusing...saddle tip to handlebar 
middle? the body measurements suggest a long top tube.

On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 9:52:45 AM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/201205334712 

 Stunning, absolutely stunning. 

 -- 
 Cheers, 
 David 

 Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace 

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal 


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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone using the VO Rando rack with integrated decaler on their Rivbike?

2014-10-29 Thread john . hawrylak
I stated the decailluer was not high enough to allow the bag to extend to the bag design height of 20 cm. I did not say the decailluer supported any weight.A decailluer ha to support some weight by allowing the bag to be fully extended.I insert 15 mm long rods into the tubes to allow the decailuer bar to be raised 15 mm. VO should have designed the tubes to be 15 mm taller!!John HawrylakWoodstown NJOn 10/28/14, Anton Tutteratut...@gmail.com wrote:There can be several schools of thought on this, and being who I am, I have one :-).I believe that a decaleur should act more as a positioning device and less of a support. The rack platform, if on a properly installed and well designed rack, should be very strong for holding a loaded up rando bag. By contrast, the decaleur is a lightweight tethering device. If it were to act as the main support, there would be no need for a rack! You would hang the bag from the decaleur and have a tombstone mounted to the brake bolt, and that would be it. The rack has a purpose, which is to support a load.2. I thought decaleurs aren't supposed to support any weight anyway. Just keeps the bag from wandering and acts as a QR?-- You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/TbcDgCo59c0/unsubscribe.To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch.For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.



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[RBW] Re: FS: Schwalbe, Panaracer, Tektro and more

2014-10-29 Thread Cyclofiend Jim
Hi Conway - 

I didn't catch this when you first posted, but could you please supply 
asking pricing on these items.  

We've never had a specific list policy, but it has been a convention that 
specific prices are noted in FS postings.

Thanks!

- Jim / list admin

On Tuesday, October 28, 2014 3:02:53 PM UTC-7, Conway Bennett wrote:

 I've been doing some inventorying and culling here in Chicago.  There is 
 some stuff I wanted offer up to the group in no particular order:

 Schwalbe Marathon HS 420 Green Guard or Panaracer Pasela Tourguard tires. 
  Both sets are 700x32.  Panaracers are gum wall folding bead.  MAYBE have 
 100 miles on them.  The Schwalbes a lot more than 100.  A years worth of 
 commuting?  Still in great shape though.

 Tektro 559 brakes, a bikes worth in great condition.

 Nitto cockpit.  46 cm Noodles, 5 cm Technomic, shimano RSX aero levers. 
  WELL used.

 Salsa Bell Lap bars.  Stock from my Cross Check and in good condition.

 Levis 511 commuter jeans.  Gray 31w 32 l.  Worn once.

 There may be more stuff coming or search Conway in Chicago CL.  Make 
 offers but don't lowball and local sales preferred.


 FW,

 CBB



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Re: [RBW] New to Me Rivendell Road (Standard)

2014-10-29 Thread WETH
That is a gorgeous bike!  I do like the look with the 650b and fenders. 
 Thanks so much for sharing the photo.
I had read somewhere else about the tread pattern in the Lierre trapping 
bits of road flotsam and jetsam; I am sorry to learn they pick up glass on 
your commute.  I have ridden Compass 26 x 1.75 tires on my Atlantis for 
about 6 months, like how they handle, and have yet to have a flat.  
Thanks again for the helpful info and photos.

Erl

On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 9:09:34 AM UTC-4, Tim Gavin wrote:

 Here's a newer shot, as promised. 



 Wrong side, sorry.  We had just climbed up a steep, long grade across from 
 St. Paul, so catching my breath came before aesthetics.

 The sidewalls of the Lierres are more dingy a year later.  I commute a 1-2 
 days a week on this bike (1-2 days on other bikes), so the tires are 
 getting some miles on them.  They're a great tire but not great for 
 commuting; I get about 1 flat a month from glass shards.  The glass shards 
 seem to get caught in the zig-zag tread of the Lierre; I think they 
 wouldn't get caught as easily in the finer, file tread of the Loup Loup 
 Pass.

 The VO 650 x 45 mm fenders fit a little more closely than SKS P45's, and 
 they have less clearance due to nuts inside the fender.  But they look 
 nice, aren't noisy, and seem to hold their position well (maybe because 
 they're metal vs. chromo-plastic).  You'd have more clearance with VO 
 Zeppelin 650 x 52 mm fenders, and they should fit--but maybe with a little 
 crimping at the fork crown.  Or just go P45's, they're pretty easy.

 Enjoy the Road Standard, and share more pics when you have it built.  I 
 absolutely love the lugs, head badge, and the ride.  And the fact that it 
 says Rivendell on the down tube makes it easier to explain to people.

 On Tue, Oct 28, 2014 at 7:12 PM, WETH erlho...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 Tim, thanks for the photo.  The wheels/tires look nice on the bike.  It 
 helps as I wanted to get a sense proportionally how the smaller wheels and 
 larger tires would look on the frame.
 Bruce, I appreciate your information too about brakes, tires and the 
 conversion to 650b.  I am pleased that three of you  have done the 
 conversion and like the results.
 All the best,
 Erl

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone using the VO Rando rack with integrated decaler on their Rivbike?

2014-10-29 Thread Ron Mc
John, that's basically why I'm a fan of the Bertoud.  At least in my 
situation of a very tall frame and a very tall bag (Acorn tall rando) it's 
the only set-up that will work.   I did all the measurement math before I 
set it up.  I have the Passhunter with integral decaleur on my daughter's 
utility bike, but what we bought it for was to set up a quick-attachment 
and support for a Nantucket basket, and she exchanges this with a 
(discontinued) Acorn mini-rando, which is shorter than the tombstone


On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 10:15:32 AM UTC-5, John Hawrylak wrote:

 I stated the decailluer was not high enough to allow the bag to extend to 
 the bag design height of 20 cm.  I did not say the decailluer supported any 
 weight.   A decailluer ha to support some weight by allowing the bag to be 
 fully extended.
  
 I insert 15 mm long rods into the tubes to allow the decailuer bar to be 
 raised 15 mm.  VO should have designed the tubes to be 15 mm taller!!
  
 John Hawrylak
 Woodstown NJ
  
  
 On 10/28/14, Anton Tutteratu...@gmail.com javascript: wrote:
  
 There can be several schools of thought on this, and being who I am, I 
 have one :-).

 I believe that a decaleur should act more as a positioning device and less 
 of a support.  The rack platform, if on a properly installed and well 
 designed rack, should be very strong for holding a loaded up rando bag.  By 
 contrast, the decaleur is a lightweight tethering device.  If it were to 
 act as the main support, there would be no need for a rack!  You would hang 
 the bag from the decaleur and have a tombstone mounted to the brake bolt, 
 and that would be it.  The rack has a purpose, which is to support a load.

 2. I thought decaleurs aren't supposed to support any weight anyway. Just 
 keeps the bag from wandering and acts as a QR?

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Gorgeous Custom on the 'Bay

2014-10-29 Thread Kieran J
Beauty. Love the colour.

KJ


On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 9:52:45 AM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/201205334712 

 Stunning, absolutely stunning. 

 -- 
 Cheers, 
 David 

 Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace 

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal 


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Re: [RBW] New to Me Rivendell Road (Standard)

2014-10-29 Thread Eric Platt
Nice bike. Not sure I've seen it in person. Is the photo from the park at
the end of the high bridge?

As to flats due to glass, I get them riding around St. Paul, too. Before
switching back to Little Big Ben's back on the Hillborne,  had 3 flats due
to glass on the Barlow Pass tires in three weeks.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN
 On Oct 29, 2014 10:20 AM, WETH erlhous...@gmail.com wrote:

 That is a gorgeous bike!  I do like the look with the 650b and fenders.
 Thanks so much for sharing the photo.
 I had read somewhere else about the tread pattern in the Lierre trapping
 bits of road flotsam and jetsam; I am sorry to learn they pick up glass on
 your commute.  I have ridden Compass 26 x 1.75 tires on my Atlantis for
 about 6 months, like how they handle, and have yet to have a flat.
 Thanks again for the helpful info and photos.

 Erl

 On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 9:09:34 AM UTC-4, Tim Gavin wrote:

 Here's a newer shot, as promised.



 Wrong side, sorry.  We had just climbed up a steep, long grade across
 from St. Paul, so catching my breath came before aesthetics.

 The sidewalls of the Lierres are more dingy a year later.  I commute a
 1-2 days a week on this bike (1-2 days on other bikes), so the tires are
 getting some miles on them.  They're a great tire but not great for
 commuting; I get about 1 flat a month from glass shards.  The glass shards
 seem to get caught in the zig-zag tread of the Lierre; I think they
 wouldn't get caught as easily in the finer, file tread of the Loup Loup
 Pass.

 The VO 650 x 45 mm fenders fit a little more closely than SKS P45's, and
 they have less clearance due to nuts inside the fender.  But they look
 nice, aren't noisy, and seem to hold their position well (maybe because
 they're metal vs. chromo-plastic).  You'd have more clearance with VO
 Zeppelin 650 x 52 mm fenders, and they should fit--but maybe with a little
 crimping at the fork crown.  Or just go P45's, they're pretty easy.

 Enjoy the Road Standard, and share more pics when you have it built.  I
 absolutely love the lugs, head badge, and the ride.  And the fact that it
 says Rivendell on the down tube makes it easier to explain to people.

 On Tue, Oct 28, 2014 at 7:12 PM, WETH erlho...@gmail.com wrote:

 Tim, thanks for the photo.  The wheels/tires look nice on the bike.  It
 helps as I wanted to get a sense proportionally how the smaller wheels and
 larger tires would look on the frame.
 Bruce, I appreciate your information too about brakes, tires and the
 conversion to 650b.  I am pleased that three of you  have done the
 conversion and like the results.
 All the best,
 Erl

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Gorgeous Custom on the 'Bay

2014-10-29 Thread Ron Mc
I asked about the top tube length, if he replies and doesn't post it to the 
listing, I'll post it here

On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 10:08:17 AM UTC-5, Minh wrote:

 Hmmm, sizing description is a little confusing...saddle tip to handlebar 
 middle? the body measurements suggest a long top tube.

 On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 9:52:45 AM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/201205334712 

 Stunning, absolutely stunning. 

 -- 
 Cheers, 
 David 

 Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace 

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal 



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Re: [RBW] New to Me Rivendell Road (Standard)

2014-10-29 Thread Tim Gavin
Eric-

I'm not sure exactly where the photo was taken; we were visiting St. Paul
for the Ramble last month.  It's on the west bluff.

I live and commute in Cedar Rapids, IA.

You had flat problems with the Barlow Pass as well as the Lierres?  I have
some Mitsuboshi Trimlines to try out once the Lierres are done, and I
figured I'd try the Barlow Pass after that.

My other main commuter is a vintage Schwinn KOM on micro-knobby tires.  I
get no flats on those tires, so who knows.

On Wed, Oct 29, 2014 at 10:43 AM, Eric Platt epericmpl...@gmail.com wrote:

 Nice bike. Not sure I've seen it in person. Is the photo from the park at
 the end of the high bridge?

 As to flats due to glass, I get them riding around St. Paul, too. Before
 switching back to Little Big Ben's back on the Hillborne,  had 3 flats due
 to glass on the Barlow Pass tires in three weeks.

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN


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[RBW] Re: fs: Carradice - Nelson Longflap - vintage one w/ cool lettering!

2014-10-29 Thread Eric
Bump...$110 shipped (PayPal terms as above)

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[RBW] Please help me with my Honjo fork crown problem please.

2014-10-29 Thread lungimsam
I have a 53 Bleriot with Tektro R559 sidepulls.
Rear fender mounted fine. No problems.
These are Honjo H50 Hammered fenders.

Front fender is giving me multi-facet-ed probs at the fork crown interface. 
I cannot tell if I should be using a daruma, or L-bracket to Sheldon fender 
nut for the mounting. I am planning on a front rack, thus the idea to 
fender mount behind fork crown, rack to brake bolt in front. Below, are the 
issues posed with either method of mounting.Thanks for all your advice, and 
let me know how you did it and succeeded!

*Daruma/Fork Crown issues:*

*Issue 1:* Though the fork has plenty of vertical and width-wise clearance 
for these fenders, the brake calipers are limiting how high I can raise the 
fender top into the top of the fork crown, as the fender hits the top of 
the  brake when I try to raise it up to the fork top. I now see the value 
of having cantis on a bike.

*Issue 2:* The fender needs to be dented more than the factory indent 
has, or wedged under the fork crown in order to tip the fender to conform 
to the radius of the tire since fork crown doesn't. But, due to the 
calipers in the way, and the fender cannot be tilted nose-up anymore 
because it will jam against brake caliper top.

*Issue 3: *A mock-up with the daruma shows that I will only have about 3mm 
clearance between end of the daruma bolt and tire.
I don't know if that is a dangerous thing and if it is better to not use a 
daruma and instead mount fenders with an L bracket/Sheldon fender nut to 
the brake bolt in this situation to eliminate the daruma bolt and get more 
clearance between tie and fender. I cannot cut the daruma bolt to make it 
shorter because I need the length to have the two rubber washers/wedge on 
the daruma bolt as mentioned in issue 2 to keep it lower than the brake 
calipers.

*Issue 4: *The front fender came factory dented, with a flat spot and a 
small rise in front of it where that rise goes in front of the fork crown. 
However, this hits the brakes, and I was wondering if it is ok to slide the 
fender forward so that the flat part of the indent is under the brakes, and 
the rise is placed in front of the brake arms for better clearance?

*L Bracket issues:*

If I use a Sheldon nut, what L bracket reaches high enough to mount onto 
the brake nut on a Bleriot? The Honjo/VO front L bracket doesn't reach up 
high enough to reach the brake bolt nut. Perhaps use the Honjo bridge band 
for this?


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[RBW] Re: Please help me with my Honjo fork crown problem please.

2014-10-29 Thread Ron Mc
http://www.renehersebicycles.com/NPP%20Fenders.htm  You might want to take 
a look at Boulder's fender daruma wedges.  These worked great for me 
matching fender and wheel radius, and not having to flatten much of 
anything.  

The 3 mm clearance sounds frightening - you may have to cut the daruma bolt 
length, but I would first assemble it with a shim in place of the fender, 
mount the wheel, and see what is really going on.  


On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 12:52:42 PM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:

 I have a 53 Bleriot with Tektro R559 sidepulls.
 Rear fender mounted fine. No problems.
 These are Honjo H50 Hammered fenders.

 Front fender is giving me multi-facet-ed probs at the fork crown 
 interface. I cannot tell if I should be using a daruma, or L-bracket to 
 Sheldon fender nut for the mounting. I am planning on a front rack, thus 
 the idea to fender mount behind fork crown, rack to brake bolt in front. 
 Below, are the issues posed with either method of mounting.Thanks for all 
 your advice, and let me know how you did it and succeeded!

 *Daruma/Fork Crown issues:*

 *Issue 1:* Though the fork has plenty of vertical and width-wise 
 clearance for these fenders, the brake calipers are limiting how high I can 
 raise the fender top into the top of the fork crown, as the fender hits the 
 top of the  brake when I try to raise it up to the fork top. I now see the 
 value of having cantis on a bike.

 *Issue 2:* The fender needs to be dented more than the factory indent 
 has, or wedged under the fork crown in order to tip the fender to conform 
 to the radius of the tire since fork crown doesn't. But, due to the 
 calipers in the way, and the fender cannot be tilted nose-up anymore 
 because it will jam against brake caliper top.

 *Issue 3: *A mock-up with the daruma shows that I will only have about 
 3mm clearance between end of the daruma bolt and tire.
 I don't know if that is a dangerous thing and if it is better to not use a 
 daruma and instead mount fenders with an L bracket/Sheldon fender nut to 
 the brake bolt in this situation to eliminate the daruma bolt and get more 
 clearance between tie and fender. I cannot cut the daruma bolt to make it 
 shorter because I need the length to have the two rubber washers/wedge on 
 the daruma bolt as mentioned in issue 2 to keep it lower than the brake 
 calipers.

 *Issue 4: *The front fender came factory dented, with a flat spot and a 
 small rise in front of it where that rise goes in front of the fork crown. 
 However, this hits the brakes, and I was wondering if it is ok to slide the 
 fender forward so that the flat part of the indent is under the brakes, and 
 the rise is placed in front of the brake arms for better clearance?

 *L Bracket issues:*

 If I use a Sheldon nut, what L bracket reaches high enough to mount onto 
 the brake nut on a Bleriot? The Honjo/VO front L bracket doesn't reach up 
 high enough to reach the brake bolt nut. Perhaps use the Honjo bridge band 
 for this?




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[RBW] Re: PSA: Gorgeous Custom on the 'Bay

2014-10-29 Thread cyclotour...@gmail.com
Agreed, the measurements aren't all that helpful. I mean, it's great to 
know the stem length is 8cm and all, but I'd rather know the top tube 
length and seat tube angle :-)

Most Rivendell owners know their bikes down to the mm, or maybe I'm 
projecting again... :-)


On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 8:43:42 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:

 I asked about the top tube length, if he replies and doesn't post it to 
 the listing, I'll post it here

 On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 10:08:17 AM UTC-5, Minh wrote:

 Hmmm, sizing description is a little confusing...saddle tip to handlebar 
 middle? the body measurements suggest a long top tube.

 On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 9:52:45 AM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/201205334712 

 Stunning, absolutely stunning. 

 -- 
 Cheers, 
 David 

 Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace 

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal 



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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: Gorgeous Custom on the 'Bay

2014-10-29 Thread 'Norman Bone' via RBW Owners Bunch
Looks like a '99 All Rounder to me (same lugs as my '99 anyway). Geo chart 
here:http://www.cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/gen1/rivcat05_framespecs.jpg

|   |
|   |  |   |   |   |   |   |
|  |
|  |
| View on www.cyclofiend.com | Preview by Yahoo |
|  |
|   |


Norm in PDX.
  From: cyclotour...@gmail.com cyclotour...@gmail.com
 To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2014 11:22 AM
 Subject: [RBW] Re: PSA: Gorgeous Custom on the 'Bay
   
Agreed, the measurements aren't all that helpful. I mean, it's great to know 
the stem length is 8cm and all, but I'd rather know the top tube length and 
seat tube angle :-)
Most Rivendell owners know their bikes down to the mm, or maybe I'm projecting 
again... :-)



On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 8:43:42 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:
I asked about the top tube length, if he replies and doesn't post it to the 
listing, I'll post it here

On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 10:08:17 AM UTC-5, Minh wrote:
Hmmm, sizing description is a little confusing...saddle tip to handlebar 
middle? the body measurements suggest a long top tube.

On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 9:52:45 AM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ 201205334712

Stunning, absolutely stunning.

-- 
Cheers,
David

Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal



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[RBW] Re: Please help me with my Honjo fork crown problem please.

2014-10-29 Thread Anton Tutter


On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 1:52:42 PM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:



 *Issue 2:* The fender needs to be dented more than the factory indent 
 has, or wedged under the fork crown in order to tip the fender to conform 
 to the radius of the tire since fork crown doesn't. But, due to the 
 calipers in the way, and the fender cannot be tilted nose-up anymore 
 because it will jam against brake caliper top.


I'm a big fan of reshaping / stress relieving fenders to fit squarely with 
their contact points. The indentation in the Honjos at the fork crown is 
not angled enough to fit parallel with the crown.  I adjust it using a DIY 
form made from on 6mm threaded rod and a stack of wide washers (called 
fender washers, no less appropriately).  Link to picture here 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/7516215@N03/8227046913/and here 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/7516215@N03/14765823254.
 


 *Issue 3: *A mock-up with the daruma shows that I will only have about 
 3mm clearance between end of the daruma bolt and tire.
 I don't know if that is a dangerous thing and if it is better to not use a 
 daruma and instead mount fenders with an L bracket/Sheldon fender nut to 
 the brake bolt in this situation to eliminate the daruma bolt and get more 
 clearance between tie and fender. I cannot cut the daruma bolt to make it 
 shorter because I need the length to have the two rubber washers/wedge on 
 the daruma bolt as mentioned in issue 2 to keep it lower than the brake 
 calipers.


So you're saying that you don't have enough clearance between your brakes 
and your tire to mount the fender, because if you don't use the spacers, 
the fender will hit the brakes, and if you leave the spacers in place and 
the daruma intact, you're only 3mm away from the tire. That's a tough one. 


 *Issue 4: *The front fender came factory dented, with a flat spot and a 
 small rise in front of it where that rise goes in front of the fork crown. 
 However, this hits the brakes, and I was wondering if it is ok to slide the 
 fender forward so that the flat part of the indent is under the brakes, and 
 the rise is placed in front of the brake arms for better clearance?


That can work, but then you have to create your own, second flat spot 
behind that one for the daruma bolt.

 


 *L Bracket issues:*

 If I use a Sheldon nut, what L bracket reaches high enough to mount onto 
 the brake nut on a Bleriot? The Honjo/VO front L bracket doesn't reach up 
 high enough to reach the brake bolt nut. Perhaps use the Honjo bridge band 
 for this?



You'd have to DIY one, but you can't use a bridge band because they can 
slide. The only reason they work on rear fenders is because the fender is 
bolted to the chain stay bridge, and hence cannot slide. In front, unless 
you are bolting the fender to a rack near the fender's trailing edge, the 
fender can slide along the bracket. 

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[RBW] Please help me with my Honjo fork crown problem please.

2014-10-29 Thread Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
One way you can handle the daruma nut problem is to use a recessed brake nut 
instead of the usual nut.  You can put the spacers on the outside of the nut, 
and the rim on the recessed nut will save you a few mm.  You will need to 
enlarge the hole in the fender carefully... But I have done this and it works.  
I believe that Campy-style seatpost binder bolts also use the same threading, 
so if you have one of those around, it could also be used.

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Re: [RBW] New to Me Rivendell Road (Standard)

2014-10-29 Thread Eric Platt
Tim,
No, just the Barlow Pass. Don't have a 650B bike.

Makes more sense. I was on a Surly Ogre at the river bottoms ride. Didn't
make the Friday ride.

Eric Platt
St.  Paul, MN
On Oct 29, 2014 11:09 AM, Tim Gavin tim.ga...@littlevillagemag.com
wrote:

 Eric-

 I'm not sure exactly where the photo was taken; we were visiting St. Paul
 for the Ramble last month.  It's on the west bluff.

 I live and commute in Cedar Rapids, IA.

 You had flat problems with the Barlow Pass as well as the Lierres?  I have
 some Mitsuboshi Trimlines to try out once the Lierres are done, and I
 figured I'd try the Barlow Pass after that.

 My other main commuter is a vintage Schwinn KOM on micro-knobby tires.  I
 get no flats on those tires, so who knows.

 On Wed, Oct 29, 2014 at 10:43 AM, Eric Platt epericmpl...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Nice bike. Not sure I've seen it in person. Is the photo from the park at
 the end of the high bridge?

 As to flats due to glass, I get them riding around St. Paul, too. Before
 switching back to Little Big Ben's back on the Hillborne,  had 3 flats due
 to glass on the Barlow Pass tires in three weeks.

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN


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Re: [RBW] New to Me Rivendell Road (Standard)

2014-10-29 Thread Eric Platt
Forgot to finish my thought. The Twin Cities seems to have more glass on
the roads than most places.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN
On Oct 29, 2014 11:09 AM, Tim Gavin tim.ga...@littlevillagemag.com
wrote:

 Eric-

 I'm not sure exactly where the photo was taken; we were visiting St. Paul
 for the Ramble last month.  It's on the west bluff.

 I live and commute in Cedar Rapids, IA.

 You had flat problems with the Barlow Pass as well as the Lierres?  I have
 some Mitsuboshi Trimlines to try out once the Lierres are done, and I
 figured I'd try the Barlow Pass after that.

 My other main commuter is a vintage Schwinn KOM on micro-knobby tires.  I
 get no flats on those tires, so who knows.

 On Wed, Oct 29, 2014 at 10:43 AM, Eric Platt epericmpl...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Nice bike. Not sure I've seen it in person. Is the photo from the park at
 the end of the high bridge?

 As to flats due to glass, I get them riding around St. Paul, too. Before
 switching back to Little Big Ben's back on the Hillborne,  had 3 flats due
 to glass on the Barlow Pass tires in three weeks.

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN


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Re: [RBW] FS: 1992 Bridgestone XO-3, 57 cm

2014-10-29 Thread Shawn Granton
The bike has been SOLD!

No one actually looks at email signatures anymore, but here goes nothing:
http://urbanadventureleague.wordpress.com/
http://societyofthreespeeds.wordpress.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/urbanadventureleaguepdx/
http://bikesspottedpdx.tumblr.com/
Un-electronic mail goes here: P O Box 14185, Portland OR 97293-0185



On Fri, Oct 24, 2014 at 3:34 PM, Shawn Granton 
urbanadventurelea...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hello all-

 Yes, yes, the thinning of the herd continues, and I’ve decided to part
 with my Bridgestone XO-3. I’ve had it for a year and a half, have had fun
 with it, done a lot with/to it, but it’s time to move on, and sell it while
 it’s still in a “really good” state. This bike is ready for all-season
 commuting, touring, and adventuring.

 Here are the pertinent deets:

- 1992 Bridgestone XO-3
- Size: 57 cm
- Cro-moly fork/main triangle, hi-ten stays
- 700C wheels. Front is a newish Quality Wheels one, rear a custom
built one on a CR-18 rim
- Schwalbe Little Big Ben 700x40C tires in brown! Bought early in
summer. Good stout tires with plenty of life. Haven’t flatted yet.
- Overhauled and updated drivetrain! Wide range double in front
(46-26) with a seven-speed (13-34) in rear. New Shimano Acera rear
derailleur. Gives you a gear range from about a 97 inch high to a 21 inch
low. Good for climbing!
- Nitto Mustache handlebars with Nitto Dirt Drop Stem.
- New-ish Shimano Deore linear-pull brakes.
- Avocet Touring II leather saddle.
- SKS fenders.
- Blackburn MTF-1 front rack with Wald basket.
- And the biggie: full dynamo lighting! An AXA HR bottle dynamo
powering a B+M headlamp and taillamp.

 I’m looking to sell this for $350 in Portland, Oregon. Shipping is
 possible for an additional charge.

 If you are interested, get in touch! Email me off-list at
 urbanadventurelea...@gmail.com

 Photos here:
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/urbanadventureleaguepdx/sets/72157648766954296/

 yours, Shawn

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[RBW] Please help me with my Honjo fork crown problem please.

2014-10-29 Thread Lynne Fitz
when my sidepull brakes are fully released, they do touch the fender, but once 
the cables are properly tensioned, everything fits just fine.  Bleriot has 
spacers on the crown fork daruma; Sweetpea (where the fender and brake touch 
when the brake is untensioned) does not have spacers.

So check if the fenders are ok with the brakes tensioned.

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[RBW] Re: Please help me with my Honjo fork crown problem please.

2014-10-29 Thread cyclotour...@gmail.com
That is a really good workaround!

On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 12:15:29 PM UTC-7, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
wrote:

 One way you can handle the daruma nut problem is to use a recessed brake 
 nut instead of the usual nut.  You can put the spacers on the outside of 
 the nut, and the rim on the recessed nut will save you a few mm.  You will 
 need to enlarge the hole in the fender carefully... But I have done this 
 and it works.  I believe that Campy-style seatpost binder bolts also use 
 the same threading, so if you have one of those around, it could also be 
 used.

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[RBW] Re: Please help me with my Honjo fork crown problem please.

2014-10-29 Thread Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
Credit to the iBOB list...I recently needed assistance on a similar question, 
and they came through.

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[RBW] Re: Please help me with my Honjo fork crown problem please.

2014-10-29 Thread Anton Tutter
It also comes in handy when you need to extend the daruma bolt for extra 
fender drop, such as on 650B conversions!

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5173/5402782717_2e2fce3c5a_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4082/5411771107_8cc694e743_z.jpg

Anton


On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 5:11:06 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 That is a really good workaround!

 On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 12:15:29 PM UTC-7, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
 wrote:

 One way you can handle the daruma nut problem is to use a recessed brake 
 nut instead of the usual nut.  You can put the spacers on the outside of 
 the nut, and the rim on the recessed nut will save you a few mm.  You will 
 need to enlarge the hole in the fender carefully... But I have done this 
 and it works.  I believe that Campy-style seatpost binder bolts also use 
 the same threading, so if you have one of those around, it could also be 
 used.



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[RBW] Re: Please help me with my Honjo fork crown problem please.

2014-10-29 Thread lungimsam
I already did it with the brakes centered and tensioned and QR closed and 
no dice.

Holding the fender at brake height where it hits the brakes and then 
lowering a mm to clear it then requires about 1/8 wedge for daruma to 
close the gap.
*But *no use in doing that as I will still need to rotate nose of fender up 
to rotate fender to match wheel radius. But I can't do that because the 
brake caliper is in the way.

I don't know how you Blerioteers had the room to do that, unless you have 
cantis/V-brakes/centerpulls. Because the Tektro R559's hang too low over 
the tire.

I am leaning towards just doing the Sheldon fender nut with L bracket at 
this point as I would not need to bend the fender, but bend the tab to get 
the radius matched. A mock-up showed this.

Maybe if all else fails, I'll just put the olde faithful Longboards on and 
then keep the Honjos for my next bike, which I will remember to get 
something with cantis and fender mount eyelets under fork crown and at all 
bridges so I can mount fenders easily.

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[RBW] Re: Please help me with my Honjo fork crown problem please.

2014-10-29 Thread lungimsam
I have no room to change the dent to tilt the nose of the fender upward for 
radius matching because the calipers prevent the nose of the fender from 
rising anymore. 

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[RBW] Re: Please help me with my Honjo fork crown problem please.

2014-10-29 Thread David Hays
On my Homer, I did manage to get a little additional top clearance by 
switching from 559s to Dia Compe Mod 750 center pulls.
David

On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 7:18:25 PM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:

 I have no room to change the dent to tilt the nose of the fender upward 
 for radius matching because the calipers prevent the nose of the fender 
 from rising anymore. 


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[RBW] Re: Please help me with my Honjo fork crown problem please.

2014-10-29 Thread Philip Williamson
I hate darumas. Darumas are the devil. They steal clearance just where you 
want it most. 
My favorite fender mounts so far have been home-brewed lengths of aluminum 
stock that I bent, slotted, and riveted. Any length you want, and the 
slotting is crucial. On plastic fenders, you can actually slot the fender, 
and rivet the mount inside the fender, with just the tab sticking up. 

Rivets are the best: flat, light, cheap, and fun to install (drill, nail 
set, hammer).  

Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 10:52:42 AM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:

 I have a 53 Bleriot with Tektro R559 sidepulls.
 Rear fender mounted fine. No problems.
 These are Honjo H50 Hammered fenders.

 Front fender is giving me multi-facet-ed probs at the fork crown 
 interface. I cannot tell if I should be using a daruma, or L-bracket to 
 Sheldon fender nut for the mounting. I am planning on a front rack, thus 
 the idea to fender mount behind fork crown, rack to brake bolt in front. 
 Below, are the issues posed with either method of mounting.Thanks for all 
 your advice, and let me know how you did it and succeeded!

 *Daruma/Fork Crown issues:*

 *Issue 1:* Though the fork has plenty of vertical and width-wise 
 clearance for these fenders, the brake calipers are limiting how high I can 
 raise the fender top into the top of the fork crown, as the fender hits the 
 top of the  brake when I try to raise it up to the fork top. I now see the 
 value of having cantis on a bike.

 *Issue 2:* The fender needs to be dented more than the factory indent 
 has, or wedged under the fork crown in order to tip the fender to conform 
 to the radius of the tire since fork crown doesn't. But, due to the 
 calipers in the way, and the fender cannot be tilted nose-up anymore 
 because it will jam against brake caliper top.

 *Issue 3: *A mock-up with the daruma shows that I will only have about 
 3mm clearance between end of the daruma bolt and tire.
 I don't know if that is a dangerous thing and if it is better to not use a 
 daruma and instead mount fenders with an L bracket/Sheldon fender nut to 
 the brake bolt in this situation to eliminate the daruma bolt and get more 
 clearance between tie and fender. I cannot cut the daruma bolt to make it 
 shorter because I need the length to have the two rubber washers/wedge on 
 the daruma bolt as mentioned in issue 2 to keep it lower than the brake 
 calipers.

 *Issue 4: *The front fender came factory dented, with a flat spot and a 
 small rise in front of it where that rise goes in front of the fork crown. 
 However, this hits the brakes, and I was wondering if it is ok to slide the 
 fender forward so that the flat part of the indent is under the brakes, and 
 the rise is placed in front of the brake arms for better clearance?

 *L Bracket issues:*

 If I use a Sheldon nut, what L bracket reaches high enough to mount onto 
 the brake nut on a Bleriot? The Honjo/VO front L bracket doesn't reach up 
 high enough to reach the brake bolt nut. Perhaps use the Honjo bridge band 
 for this?




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[RBW] Re: PSA: Gorgeous Custom on the 'Bay

2014-10-29 Thread Philip Williamson
That's my ideal Rivendell color, style, and size. 
Dang.

Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 6:52:45 AM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/201205334712 

 Stunning, absolutely stunning. 

 -- 
 Cheers, 
 David 

 Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace 

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal 


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Re: [RBW] PSA: Gorgeous Custom on the 'Bay

2014-10-29 Thread Joe Broach
​Gorgeous bike. What a great color. The recessed crown and brake bridge
seem odd for a custom with cantis. But maybe that was just the way of the
world back when. No real harm, I guess.

best,
joe broach
portland, or​

On Wed, Oct 29, 2014 at 6:52 AM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
wrote:

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/201205334712

 Stunning, absolutely stunning.

 --
 Cheers,
 David

 Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal

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[RBW] Re: Please help me with my Honjo fork crown problem please.

2014-10-29 Thread lungimsam
Makes me wonder why fender manufacturers design hardware that eats 
tire-to-inside-of-fender clearance.
Pan head screws with the heads inside of fender, bolts on the outside would 
be a great way to do it.

Antons idea with the brake bolt nut is great, but I would Loctite it for 
sure. I'll have to do a mock up and see if it is feasible with my radius 
probs.
That's the other risk with using a daruma- not knowing if the nut has 
backed off over the years/months of riding unless you check it regularly. 
Probably rattles would be the first sign.

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[RBW] Re: Please help me with my Honjo fork crown problem please.

2014-10-29 Thread Benz, Sunnyvale, CA
I'm not sure what this concern is about. 3mm of space between the end of a 
bolt and the tire is plenty as it's not zero. The tire's never going to 
expand and the crown daruma bolt isn't going to drop. In addition, it is 
very unlikely that something's going to get caught at the very narrow 
constriction. This isn't at all like 3mm of space in the wheel well between 
fender and tire. In fact, I suspect my stay darumas and fender flap 
mounting bolts probably protrude quite a bit into the wheel well, to no ill 
effect over thousands of miles. Of course, having stated this, I'll 
probably have my fenders crumple in some freak accident the next time I 
ride.

Although the recessed brake nut trick is spiffy, one has to wonder if the 
relatively small lip on the nut is adequate for holding up an aluminum 
fender long-term. I suspect that the aluminum fender may crack around that 
area over time, due to localized stress.


On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 12:15:29 PM UTC-7, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
wrote:

 One way you can handle the daruma nut problem is to use a recessed brake 
 nut instead of the usual nut.  You can put the spacers on the outside of 
 the nut, and the rim on the recessed nut will save you a few mm.  You will 
 need to enlarge the hole in the fender carefully... But I have done this 
 and it works.  I believe that Campy-style seatpost binder bolts also use 
 the same threading, so if you have one of those around, it could also be 
 used.

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[RBW] Re: Please help me with my Honjo fork crown problem please.

2014-10-29 Thread Anton Tutter
Benz, I always use a wide washer with the brake bolt to minimize stresses 
around the narrow lip of the brake bolt. Sometimes the washer has to be drilled 
out for the brake bolt.

Six years of riding alloy fenders and no stress cracks yet. 

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[RBW] Re: Please help me with my Honjo fork crown problem please.

2014-10-29 Thread rperks
Lungisman,
DO not settle for the 3mm!  Think about which way the tire moves when you 
hit a big bump, does it move more than 3mm and what would happen if the 
spinning tire had a bolt fixed to the crown stab into it?  Is the risk of 
this happening worth it?  I have had situations like this get close enough 
to make buzzing/rubbing sounds while working out just how plump a tire 
would work with a given fender set up.  The resist Nomad, VO fenders and a 
proto fork with the crown 4mm lower in space than final spec was not a long 
lived combo.  I could actially feel the drag when it would rub.  I took it 
slow and easy getting home

Fabricating a bracket like Bike Tinker recommends is the best option if you 
have the ability.  With the tab on the inside, through a thin slot in the 
fender you get a built in fail safe.  If rivets are a bit much try some 
small brass hardware, nuts, bolts and washers.  That said, if you can get 
the recessed brake bolt to work it will likely be way easier.  

If I had way too much time and a mill I would consider making one of these:
http://problemsolversbike.com/products/fender_flute
where the interface at the bottom is bolted straight up from inside the 
fender, bottom edge of the widget mitered to the appropriate angle lie the 
Boulder widget

Rob

On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 8:12:37 PM UTC-7, Anton Tutter wrote:

 Benz, I always use a wide washer with the brake bolt to minimize stresses 
 around the narrow lip of the brake bolt. Sometimes the washer has to be 
 drilled out for the brake bolt.

 Six years of riding alloy fenders and no stress cracks yet. 


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Re: [RBW] Re: A. Saluki Hilsen

2014-10-29 Thread Chris Chen
Hugh:

Happy to report that it's at Bob Kamzelski's Bantam shop. There's talk of
putting couplers on it and turning it into a mountain tourer, but to be
honest I might just hang it on the wall as a reminder.

cc

On Thu, Oct 23, 2014 at 6:55 PM, hsmitham hughsmit...@gmail.com wrote:

 Chris,

 So happy your back on a Hilsen it's a beauty. What's the plan  status on
 the damaged 57cm?

 Hugh
 Los Angeles, CA



 On Wednesday, October 22, 2014 11:43:44 AM UTC-7, Christopher Chen wrote:
  Almost 2 months after the crash, we're back with a slightly different
 bike...
 
 
  58cm Toyo, 130mm Rear Spacing!?, Edelux + Toplight, and 584-38 Lierres
 to start.
 
 
 
  https://www.flickr.com/photos/lumachrome/sets/72157646463549633/
 
 
  --
  I want the kind of six pack you can't drink. -- Micah

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