quite simply, all butyl tubes feel like an electric toothbrush next to
latex tubes. I have used Stans in my latex tubes with a large glass shard
in a Barlow, and the Stans lasted as long as the remaining tire tread.
On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 10:28:02 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> To
I think we're getting into generalizations here. Car drivers, recreational
cyclists, long-distance riders, truck drivers, pedestrians, competitive
cyclists out training--there are of course bad apples in every bunch. Maybe
I'm lucky, but most of the racers I've ridden/trained with on public
To confirm: you noticed a difference in the Compass tires with latex
instead of butyl tubes?
Certainly Compass ELs with standard tubes roll wonderfully. That would
indeed be an amazing ride, just short, I daresay, of running Compass tires
tubeless.
I've looked for 559 X skinny and 650C ("See")
Tubus offers excellent, threaded aluminum clamps for lowrider racks; these
are head, shoulders, and knees above P clamps.
Wayne at TheTouringStoredotcom has very good prices on Tubus and Ortlieb,
among other marques, and all associated kit, and is very easy to work with.
On Mon, May 23, 2016 at
Note, it's also possible they're simply re-rating them and changing the
package to hit the 650b market. Could be the reason for the CRC closeout
price...
On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 10:07:08 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> Especially if you're planning to stock up on 700c (try ribble?) possibly
>
I agree that for most riding it is not worth the annoying lash or the
weight, and for most of my local riding I simply prefer to flip the wheel,
stand and grunt, or to walk.
But frankly, I arranged this setup for eventual longer rides -- the missed,
this past Sunday's Santa Fe Century (I would
Thanks, Zach. I read that older thread about the Hillborne-Tara conundrum.
Sounds like p-clamps or the adapters sold a few places are the answer. I'll
send you an e-mail right now.
On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 11:03:10 AM UTC-4, Zach Duval wrote:
>
> I've got a Tubus Tara I haven't been using as
uncle
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Hi Bill,
Do you think the long chainstays would help the stoker's ride quality? That
might be a consideration to keep it longer (not a wheelbase thing).
Shoji
On Saturday, May 21, 2016 at 1:09:08 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> I had my phone in the charger in my car. As I was getting out
I've got a Tubus Tara I haven't been using as well as a pair of Seattle
Sports waterproof pannier in blue. I would probably be willing to part with
both.
The Tara does require a hack to work on the Hillsborne's not quote low
enough mid-fork mounts. Others here could probably advise a few
Especially if you're planning to stock up on 700c (try ribble?) possibly
add a couple of these to kick up to free shipping level. If anything, all
you're going to face is a little thicker tube, but the slight diameter
stretch is going to keep them from buckling anywhere. If it doesn't work,
Slight thread drift, apologies, but since Tubus lowriders were brought up -
what's the max tire size that generally fits the Tara? Trying to figure out
if the normal Tara or the Big Apple would be necessary. I'm running 700c
Thunder Burts (about 51mm I think on narrow-ish rims).
Thanks,
David
Hi Folks,
I am looking for advice on (and I WTB) front lowrider racks for my canti
Hillborne. I am mostly interested in lowrider racks like the Tubus Tara or
Duo. Riv's HAR is nice, as are the Nitto Campee and Big Front Rack, but
they're probably too pricey for me, even used, unless you're
I take it the toothbrush analogy describes the smoothness of the latex
tubes. What about speed, or the sensation of speed? (For me, this is felt
*not* by buzz but by feeling of torque/cadence related to effort.) My Elk
Pass tires just feel easier to pedal than the not-bad-themselves Kojaks.
On
I saw these, but I'm concerned they'd be too big for 650b 42mm (1.6") wide
tires, as they state 1.9-2.2".
What would be the risk of trying to go with a wider tube in a narrower
tire, assuming you are able to mount it without pinching it against the
rim? Would it crease inside the tire and
This makes sense, but I could see why it would matter less for a tandem.
For simplicity, imagine a rider on a single bike that sits exactly half way
between the axles. A 1" vertical bump at the rear wheel would be felt as
1/2" at the saddle. But on an imaginary tandem with equal 1/3 spacing
On 05/23/2016 01:53 PM, iamkeith wrote:
This makes sense, but I could see why it would matter less for a
tandem. For simplicity, imagine a rider on a single bike that sits
exactly half way between the axles. A 1" vertical bump at the rear
wheel would be felt as 1/2" at the saddle. But on
Hopefully you could see the grate in the distance and I would start
gesturing at the obstacle on your right and constantly yell grate and start
leaning left to move away from the obstacle. All roadies would understand
what is happening and give you space. Lean to the left without moving to
the
I've seen the Olympic Center peloton a few times out riding, but always
cross current to me (I'm going up as they go down, or vice-versa). I've
wondered what it would be like to pass them, er, for them to pass me. Grin.
With abandon,
Patrick
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All sold. Thanks!
On Sunday, May 22, 2016 at 10:04:35 AM UTC-5, Julian wrote:
>
> For sale are three bags and a Nitto Campee rack. Details below, photos
> here https://flic.kr/s/aHskADwFKN
>
>
> 1) Carradice Barley saddlebag. Green. Very good condition. $85 shipped
> w/in conus.
>
>
> 2)
Hi Shoji
I'm going to say "no", I don't think longer chainstays do anything for what
I would call "ride quality". That's just my opinion, and I don't have any
strong empirical evidence for it. Also, I've never been a stoker. I think
the 'ride quality' most people think about for stokers is
Keith is exactly right (in my humble opinion). Moving the rear wheel back
relative to one's tuckus reduces the magnitude of the bump you feel. How
much does it reduce the bump? By the same percentage that you increased
the wheelbase. So a 2.5cm increase of chainstay length increases the
Thanks, Bill. My Sam has eyelets just under my canti mounts and near the
bottom of the fork blades. Hopefully that clears it up.
On Monday, May 23, 2016, Bill Lindsay wrote:
> Bob
>
> Most Rivendell bikes in 2016 come with fork tips that have rack/fender
> eyelets both
Ach - can't handle the detail.
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On 05/23/2016 01:26 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
Hi Shoji
I'm going to say "no", I don't think longer chainstays do anything for
what I would call "ride quality". That's just my opinion, and I don't
have any strong empirical evidence for it. Also, I've never been a
stoker. I think the 'ride
Bob
Most Rivendell bikes in 2016 come with fork tips that have rack/fender
eyelets both above and below the fork tip. My 2009 Hillborne only has
eyelets below the fork tips which limits the choices of what I can run.
The Hub Area Rack, for example, is intended to run on the upper set, which
On 05/23/2016 10:17 AM, René Sterental wrote:
I saw these, but I'm concerned they'd be too big for 650b 42mm (1.6")
wide tires, as they state 1.9-2.2".
What would be the risk of trying to go with a wider tube in a narrower
tire, assuming you are able to mount it without pinching it against
Thanks, Patrick. That's what the older thread said, as well.
David, no thread drift apology necessary. I was wondering the same thing in
reference to my 47 Schwalbes, which I'd run if the weather allowed me to
leave fenders at home...
What about panniers? What's the best value/quality
Same goes for single bikes. The longer chainstays on Rivendells move the wheel
a little farther back and help take the edge off of the bumps, compared to
“racing” bikes with shorter stays. In fact, my Richard Sachs has
long-than-racing-normal chainstays for the same reason. It has an inch of
I think Rich may be on to something. But is this really a problem or is it
theoretical? There are probably 100s of thousands, if not million of bikes
out there with disc brakes! Yes, it's new for road bikes, but there have
been disc brake mtbs and cross bikes for at least what 5, if not 10
"But what would it feel like on a super short wheel base tandem where the
stoker is sitting virtually on top of the rear wheel? "
Let's look at numbers. I'll assert that the Salsa Powderkeg is a typical
enough tandem. 187cm wheelbase, 45cm chainstay, 74cm boom tube (connecting
the BBs).
For sure an unhappy stoker is a bummer. Tandems have evolved over the last
50 years, to be sure, and make the stoker's existence more pleasant.
On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 12:55:48 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On 05/23/2016 02:42 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
> > OK Steve. If you aren't
Group riders tend to lose independant perspective. I think it comes from the
sheer amount of concentration when riding at speed in a tight pack and also
just trying to keep up. It the lead rider went wide around you, the pack would
probably have snaked out and given you room.
Taking the lane
Replacing a warped disc is a lot cheaper than rebuilding a wheel. A
customer brought in his tandem wheel a few weeks ago. It had a slightly
dented rim. If the tandem had rim brakes he would have needed the rim
replaced. But since it is disc, all it needed was a bit of truing. The dent
isn't bad
Thanks for all the replies. I ended up buying some of the MKS Cage Half
Clips, and put about 75 miles on with them over the weekend, then about 20
more miles in the city today.
On the 75mi ride (actually split up into 2 days) I wore samba-like
sneakers, and felt like I really had to lift my
On 05/23/2016 02:42 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
OK Steve. If you aren't comfortable with the math, give me the
numbers and I will hit the calculator buttons for you. What is the
wheelbase of your tandem of interest? what is the chainstay length of
your tandem of interest? What is the boom tube
On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 1:15:21 PM UTC-7, Mike in WA wrote:
>
> The only maintenance I've had to do on Avid BB7's in a year of running
> them is adjusting the calipers every so often with then turn of a screw and
> changing the pads. I do not miss having to try to conjure devil magic (or
>
On 05/23/2016 04:56 PM, Lungimsam wrote:
Sprung saddle sounds like it would be standard for stoker.
except for the effect...
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Buy the 52 and the 55I believe Riv will let you return...You will
probably like them.
On Saturday, May 21, 2016 at 12:09:52 PM UTC-4, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> Hi all-
>
>
> I’m experimenting with handlebars on my new Riv. I’ve had the Albatrosses
> on a number of previous bikes (and now this
Got it. I won't risk it. The link to those rated 42mm is worth
checking out. Those should fit well.
Patrick, the subtleness of your descriptions sometimes escapes me, but I'd
venture to say that the latex tubes on the Compass tires makes them feel a
lot smoother. Whether they actually roll
I vote with the omission club rather than commission. They're nose down
and locked into their neighbors. Your best defense is long-distance
anticipation of what's ahead, holding the white line or wider and forcing
them to think and eventually pass. The good news is, you only have to make
The only maintenance I've had to do on Avid BB7's in a year of running them
is adjusting the calipers every so often with then turn of a screw and
changing the pads. I do not miss having to try to conjure devil magic (or
relying on LBS) to adjust V-brakes to reduce squealing or (worse) cantis
On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 12:27:38 PM UTC-7, Peter White wrote:
>
> Replacing a warped disc is a lot cheaper than rebuilding a wheel. A
> customer brought in his tandem wheel a few weeks ago. It had a slightly
> dented rim. If the tandem had rim brakes he would have needed the rim
>
Hey there,
I have clipless pedals and shoes and most of the things in the shoes ruse
article don't really ring true for me. Clipless pedals are great and the
longer the ride, the better they are for me. However whenever I put
clipless pedals on a bike that is the bike I never ride, so I use
Sprung saddle sounds like it would be standard for stoker.
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Rim brakes are better because discs are getting popular.
Friction is better because indexing is everywhere.
Steel is best because it's outdated!
Yes, I wear a wind up watch.
Rob "elevate from the norm" Markwardt
Seattle, WA
>
>>
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OK Steve. If you aren't comfortable with the math, give me the numbers and
I will hit the calculator buttons for you. What is the wheelbase of your
tandem of interest? what is the chainstay length of your tandem of
interest? What is the boom tube length? I'll be glad to run those numbers
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/f-hilsen-67x.htm
That's pretty swank. One of you tall folks should go check that out.
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To those people who have tried Ebikes only one thing I would mention & that is
that not all systems work the same AND in only the last couple years most
systems have improved measurably.
I don't have any real knowledge of this unfortunately, beyond my recent online
research on the subject,
Yes, the varying levels of pedal assist make for a much more bicycle-like ride
than the ones where you just jam the throttle and hold on. Mine has both, but
Faraday makes a lovely PAS-only bike; they purposely eschew a throttle so that
their classicly styled double-tuber remains a bicycle.
I
Hi Ryan,
Maybe try RMX sneaker pedals? I have them on my AHH, and they are terrific
for Just Ride-- no sharp edges, look great, spin freely, and even have
reflectors. (I do prefer VP thin gripsters for grip and trail riding.)
Oh yeah, price on RMX is v nice, too.
good luck, shoji
On Monday,
Thanks. I'll be very interested in hearing any further perceptions.
I really must look further for 650C tubes in latex.
On Mon, May 23, 2016 at 1:42 PM, René Sterental wrote:
> Got it. I won't risk it. The link to those rated 42mm is worth
> checking out. Those should fit
Hi Joe,
I think the eCLEM is awesome. I'm tempted to help with shlepping the kids
and also having my spouse out more with me/us on rides. Don't think we're
in the market for it now, though.
Tailwinds-- just dial it up by throttle!
shoji
On Sunday, May 22, 2016 at 4:19:02 PM UTC-4, Joe
New to the supple tube zeitgeist and was wondering:
1. Really?!?! First supple tires and now supple tubes? ;)
2. Is their any research on safety of butyl vs. latex? Specifically with flats
resulting in catastrophic tears? Like does a simple puncture in latex develop
into a blowout tear faster
No drafting allowed in RAAM.
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I know it must be fun to gain the speed of a paceline. But one cannot say they
finished the ride under ones own steam.
Racers understandably use plines. But I dont get randonneurs using pacelines
though. Comeradery. But seems it flies in the face of the self sufficiency
ethic.
Ill admit that
On a slight tangent, I think its too bad that the value of doing bump and
touch drills gets so little (if any) attention outside of racing oriented
cycling. Things we'd rather didn't do happen, and when they do it can help
to have developed skills for dealing with them ahead of time.
On
#1 rule in a training paceline is whoever is at the front is in charge of
the safety of everyone else following. That's what I was taught decades
ago. Many, if not most of us have either pointed out potholes and glass,
put your open palm facing backwards on your butt to indicate a stop ahead,
Rene, I believe I was mistaken and the 42mm is is just the valve stem
length. (though 42mm tire width is 1.65")
On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 2:42:09 PM UTC-5, René wrote:
>
> Got it. I won't risk it. The link to those rated 42mm is worth
> checking out. Those should fit well.
>
>>
>>
--
You
Still hoping for some more offers on panniers and front racks!
Bill, et al--You can *just barely* make out the eyelets on the front fork
in the second picture here: https://goo.gl/photos/NFB2MPCKR3ZdKK796
Also, if I understand the older thread about the Tubus Tara correctly, the
upper eyelets
If you're looking for another low-profile option, I've had good luck with
the VP-535 / VP Grind (I've seen them called both). They are cheap and
comfortable. Not quite as grippy as the VP-001, but they work just fine in
the dry with sneakers. And no cut shins.
Eric
On Monday, May 23, 2016 at
I concur. Furthermore, you have to understand that the riders behind you
can't really see what's in front (the drain), until they passed you. By
then, the line is established and following riders won't know this from
that. By riding your own (safe) line, you would have assured that the
peloton
they transform even the smaller sizes of Compass EL tires (or any fine
casing/ supple tires) - they run quieter and that, by definition, means the
run faster, because noise is kinetic energy being lost by the tire.
They also reward lower pressures - they actually become too bouncy at too
high
Yep yep, that's the way I would go if I was starting from scratch with a new
kit. This one pulled from an old KHS is very rear-heavy, which works well
enough on the very stable CLEM with long chainstays, but it's not ideal. The
first thing I'll change when this battery wears out is to put a new
Funny - I wear keens almost exclusively, for 7 months a year. I was SO
excited when they came out with those bike sandals. But they're about 1/2
the width of their regular sandals, and I literally cannot even get them on
my feet. My SPD bike "shoe" of choice is currently the Nashbar sandal,
VP-001 has become my least-favorite platform pedal - the center of the
pedal at the outermost point is like an intentional knife edge, and it's so
far away from the pedal spikes, it's pointless for it to stick out that
far.
The other pedals I ride, Raceface Atlas, Straitline Amp and
Thanks for the reply, Doug. (And that's also a good idea regarding the
dimension stenciling.)
Like Matt, I'm also a bit uneasy about putting my bike in a cardboard box.
Maybe I'm just paranoid, as of course lots of brand new bikes are shipped
that way (although they probably do a better job
I'll second the MKS sneaker pedals. Good grip for something without all the
shin eatin pins. I was actually really surprised at how well they gripped. I
think of it like this. Thin gripsters too much, Grip Kings not enough,
especially if you add any amount of h2o, sneaker pedals just
With 40 years' practice, I'm pretty good at getting in the 2nd toe clip on
the first half-rev. But what my daughter hated was dragging it around for
several revs before getting the second foot engaged.
On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 2:51:43 PM UTC-5, Jack B wrote:
>
> ...
>
> Around town I found
Man, you describe me and my struggles to an absolute T: Clipless are still
best for long rides; but I don't use a bike nearly as often if so fitted; I
enjoy platform pedals most of the time; but am scarred, scabbed and bloody
all summer long. I got all the way to shin bone last year. I'm
Thanks Joe. The Alfine/Nexus IGH works quite will with the e-assist, being
able to downshift while stationary if I forget to do so before stopping for
a light. It adds noticeable weight to the rear wheel and the steps are as
nice as the 2 x 9 on my Sam, but they balance out the weight of the
All correct there, Rene. It seems redundant to say these improve supple
tires, but they do indeed. I flatted last week, put in quick butyl spare
on roadside and was delighted to get my latex back in - rode it yesterday
and giggled the whole 35 mi.
Don't know of any for 650B, but Michelin
I briefly tried a S3X hub. I was excited about it having ridden primarily
fixed gear for over a year at the time when they were available. I built it
up and had the kit that came with a barend shifter. I used the shifter on a
dt boss instead of barend.
Took it for a spin and hated the lash. I
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