I haven't seen one of those QRs since my wife's 1978 Raleigh mixed bike.!
It did work fine. I'll bet they went out with CPs but may be poised for a
comeback with CPs.
Michael
On Friday, December 19, 2014 11:54:41 PM UTC-5, AaronY wrote:
You can avoid the special order issue by substituting a typical fender
draruma (eyelet bolt) for the same purpose. Granted, that Honjo piece is
not only nice looking but (somewhat) better designed as a block to act as a
spacer -- but I've used this method of repurposing the fender hardware
Amit,
You can't go wrong with Sorels (owned by Columbia but I'm not sure where
they make 'em) ... but also look at the Kamilk's as well -- they're
generally lighter (made in Canada).
On Friday, December 19, 2014 10:30:43 PM UTC-5, Amit Singh wrote:
A few folks are talking about a
My recent Atlantis build has an accumulation of bits from special friends,
which makes the final result extra special to me. Your QB looks wonderful from
way over here, so I can guess how much more it means to you, especially when it
is so functional. And is that a hub shiner I see?
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Amit,
Awesome! Your first basic choice is traditional (rawhide and wood) or
modern (aluminum and plastic). I get by with my modern pair (because I
don't yet do too much in super deep snow, but there is a causal
relationship there, I don't do deeper stuff because I don't have better
I meant to add and forgot, that if you will be somewhere with temps
constantly below 20˚F, then you may be better served by Steger Mukluks. The
concept is they are highly breathable and your foot stays much dryer (and
you only need two liners total because they stay dryer). But they rot
I prefer these: http://www.northernlites.com/
On Friday, December 19, 2014 9:30:43 PM UTC-6, Amit Singh wrote:
A few folks are talking about a snow-camping adventure. They say snowshoes
are required, and that fat bikes won't float enough on the powder. So ...
what kind of snowshoe should
ted,
I haven't seen it in person (Honjo products are hard to find even in
Japan), but I found the following website:
https://www.cyclo.co.jp/webshop/shop.cgi?pw=category=40-4
2nd photo from the top shows the hardware.
It says
horizontal hole (for brake) : 6mm
threaded hole (for fender) : 5mm
Turned out very well.
On Saturday, December 20, 2014 1:47:48 AM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/15874405780/
Over the last few months, I've put on new fenders (thanks John!),
cranks (thanks Philip!), pedals (thanks David!), and kickstand
I may have something similar. I'll dig through the parts tomorrow and let you
know.
Dan
On Dec 19, 2014, at 8:45 PM, ted ted.ke...@comcast.net wrote:
Thanks Takashi, that looks kinda neat.
I gather it replaces the spacer that normally goes on the brake bolt on the
back side of the
Most manufactures hold demonstrations at National Parks and areas that are
popular for snowshoeing. You can try their models out for free and they are
there to give you expert advice on the type of snowshoes to match your size
and weight . Manufacturers types of bindings vary, some are easier
Which method is more accurate for getting more accurate cyclecomputer data?
I am mostly interested in the miles ridden being accurate, if that is even
possible on a cyclecomputer. I don't know how accurate these things are. My
cycling app shows very different speed reads than my cycle computer.
3 things
1. what frame is it for ? There is no one standard for how exactly a
canti mounts as every frame has different stays and different designs . For
example, a cross/road frame is not the same as say a Bombadil/Atlantis etc.
, they are intended for much different tires .
2. in the
There are advantages modern snowshoes have over traditional is the metal
cleats for icy sections. If you will be in open areas (above treeline, for
example), the crampons are a big plus. So modern snowshoes work well in
powder and hardback and ice whereas traditional will slip more on hardback
Oh, and take two sleeping pads and sleep on them both. You'll be happy for
the extra insulation between you and the snow.
With abandon,
Patrick
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Och! I keep forgetting to add in bits. Here are the advantages of
traditional over modern:
-- quiet (near silent)
-- greater float
-- don't get brittle in extreme cold (as aluminum and plastic do).
-- don't collect snow on the deck, as solid modern decks do.
With abandon,
Patrick
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Another solution is this little French widget. I got a bunch of these and
offered them up on the Bob and RBW lists a couple of years ago. I only have
one left, in anticipation of me being in this situation one day, otherwise
I'd offer it up:
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 10:14:15 PM UTC+1, Bill Lindsay wrote:
Within reason, sure. /.../ If the forkblades are wrinkled at all, then
you get a little more queasy about it. Feel under the top tube and down
tube right behind the lugs to check there for wrinkling as well. /.../
Nice! Is that an original paint job? (I'm sort of color blind and hard to
tell from the photo but looks different than the green, red, and silver
ones I've seen).
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A fitting steed for a member of the Supreme Council!
With abandon,
Patrick
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On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 10:04:41 PM UTC-5, Jason Leach wrote:
These don't seem to have a boutique price to me. $50 per tires at a brick
and mortar shop seems about right for a Pasela PT in (almost) 2015. Last
time I priced Pasela TG in 700c they were $45ish. This same 650b tire in
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 6:09:21 AM UTC+1, lungimsam wrote:
If I love friction bar end shifting, will I find friction DT shifting
just as easy and enjoyable?
Never done it before, and seems like the reach may make it more difficult
and looks like there's a big potential for knees
Yes, an aft hub shiner!
I love how I was able to find most of my upgrades (lateral grades?)
through the good-people of the RBW list here. Either actively looking
through a WTB request or tripping across something offered for sale.
Said it before and will say it again: This is a great little
I used to have good luck with Atlas, particularly when climbing (
http://en-us.atlassnowshoe.com/
http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fen-us.atlassnowshoe.com%2Fsa=Dsntz=1usg=AFQjCNGepsEPu-J8l9ECTIfsGjZY6UM3nQ).
I liked the spring loaded pivoting bottom that stayed level with the
mountain
The bar-end, downtube, shem shifting discussion elsewhere has me
thinking: Can a modern-ish nine speed indexed shifter be mounted on an
old-timey five speed stem-shifter clamp? If so, I bet I could scare
one up down at the co-op.
--
Cheers,
David
Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace
it isn't
Good question. I set my CatEye up as 700x32 (Compass Stampede Pass). The
computer gains about 1 mile in 50 during every brevet I've ridden. So I'm
guessing if it shows that I've gone 51 when th cue sheet reads 50, that
probably means I'm riding slightly slower than the computer shows. I always
Where there's a will there's a way.
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A couple of years ago, maybe more, I got a flat on my Schwalbes when I ran
over an industrial-sized tack. When stopping and fixing it, I was amazed
and actually sort of pleased that I remembered how to fix a flat, it having
been such a long time!
Andy
On Thursday, December 18, 2014
I have bailing wire, a hammer, and duct-tape!
On Sat, Dec 20, 2014 at 9:03 AM, Bill webe...@gmail.com wrote:
Where there's a will there's a way.
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A good measurement technique I read about (the great sheldon perhaps) is to put
a drop of oil on your tire, roll it and measure the distance between the two
spots. Old news to the pros on this list, I am sure.
Your rookie,
Edwin
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Most of the old timey ones don't have the squarish base part. If you take
all the shifter bits off and it looks kind of like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Huret-Stem-Mount-Double-Shifter-Clamp-New-pattern-2-/361154800392?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item541680eb08
then you will be optimistic.
Spot of oil works great, but ride it with your anticipated weight
(including your engine), as that changes things a wee bit.
With abandon,
Patrick
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You will get the most accurate measurements by carefully measuring your
roll out and using a cyclecomputer that counts wheel revolutions.
I find the easiest way to measure roll out is to lay out a 50' cloth tape
(using bricks or rocks to weight the ends helps), line up the valve stem at
the 1
If you want to eliminate the discrepancy, just reduce the wheel
circumference setting on your cateye by 2% (1 mile in 50 is 2 in 100 is 2%).
On Saturday, December 20, 2014 8:15:38 AM UTC-8, Tim wrote:
Good question. I set my CatEye up as 700x32 (Compass Stampede Pass). The
computer gains
Any South Bay riders interested in a South Bay get together? Oakland
is not so convenient from the peninsula.
On Wed, Dec 17, 2014 at 10:22 PM, DS davecst...@gmail.com wrote:
Anyone interested in meeting up for a monthly Rivendell ride in the Bay Area
(East Bay specifically since I live in
The easiest thing is no cyclometer. The second easiest thing is to use the
700x23 default number for your 650bx42 (both have a nominal radius of
334mm) Then ride a known distance and adjust accordingly. I've used the
track at the high school. 4 laps = 1 mile. I've used the painted mile
I would be interested, though I don't live on the peninsula.
I used to live over there, and I still think the riding there is as good as
it gets.
On Saturday, December 20, 2014 10:19:24 AM UTC-8, Anne Paulson wrote:
Any South Bay riders interested in a South Bay get together? Oakland
is not
thanks everyone. it appears i am not that much of an idiot/this problem is
not uncommon, which is both good and bad news. it seems like some sort of
qr or in line adjuster thing is needed to get them to do what i want
aaron,
i had the tektro 720s previously installed. they worked just fine.
I've been using CX-70 cantis for at least the past 6 months on my
Hunqapillar. I don't use the Shimano link-wire thing, and instead use a
regular straddle hanger yoke.
RE: how well they work
For me, the CX-70s are easy to set up and provide powerful braking. They
replaced CR-720, which were
This way:
http://lynnerides.blogspot.com/2014/04/technical-aside-calibrating-bike.html
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i have my eye on the CX 70 brakes but im curious if the entire pad and holder
can be replaced or are you confined to using that particular holder and replace
pads when needed
Apple#39;s Crazy New Gizmo
Forget the iPhone 6. Next hit
plus all you ever wanted to know about creating cue sheets. Note: don't use
the cue to cue distance to generate the cumulative distance, subtract the
cumulative distance at each turn. Otherwise, errors keep accumulating :-)
http://lynnerides.blogspot.com/search/label/cue
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Mostly agree,
Easiest thing is no cyclometer,
Next easiest is gps only cyclometer (no calibration),
Then comes the various ways of calibrating a wheel rev counting cyclometer.
The standard value typically given for 700x23 is 2096mm circumference,
which works out to about 26.26 inch diameter.
Then you're good to go!
dougP
On Saturday, December 20, 2014 9:31:39 AM UTC-8, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
I have bailing wire, a hammer, and duct-tape!
On Sat, Dec 20, 2014 at 9:03 AM, Bill web...@gmail.com javascript:
wrote:
Where there's a will there's a way.
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Excellent point that the easiest thing is no computer. That's what I do. If
necessary, I'll pull out the GPS on my phone for navigation, but that is
rare. I do it because I much prefer the freedom I experience not riding to
the computer (I'm too stupid not to ride to the computer, so I got ride
One of those light sabers I saw on your Flickr stream ought to come in
handy!
With abandon
Patrick
On Saturday, December 20, 2014 10:31:39 AM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
I have bailing wire, a hammer, and duct-tape!
On Sat, Dec 20, 2014 at 9:03 AM, Bill web...@gmail.com javascript:
I am kind of surprised all of Rivendell's bike models don't have a tapped
fender mount on the brake bridge, stock, like the 2013 Hillbornes do.
RBW is into fenders. So I would have thought that would be standard on all
their frames, but they are not.
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I will +1 Patrick's comments on snowshoes if you have any intent of getting
into the higher mountains. You'll want the steel cleat far before you'll be
able to just switch to just crampons. I use a pair of msr's that are
trouble free and simple. Just pull them out when I need them, ready to go.
David:
I just remembered I've got a complete stem shifter set-up that someone on
the list gave to me. It's yours if you want it. No idea about what it
looks like when you take the levers off.
dougP
On Saturday, December 20, 2014 7:48:52 AM UTC-8, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
The bar-end,
Snowshoeing (along with backcountry skiing) will reveal just how smart the
Inuit are to have over 30 words for snow. It is truly amazing what a
difference conditions when it falls, lands, sits, and how it was formed in
the first place makes on the snow and thus our experience of plowing
Let me go through the parts bin this afternoon and see what happens!
Thanks for the offer!
On Sat, Dec 20, 2014 at 12:14 PM, dougP dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
David:
I just remembered I've got a complete stem shifter set-up that someone on
the list gave to me. It's yours if you want it. No
Plug for the new IRD mounts here. I love stem shifting with new 9-speed
shifters.
If you can make it work with old mounts, that will be cool! If you decide it
won't work and mow some lawns, splurging on the IRDs would probably be
satisfying.
Are the ones from Doug old style or IRDs?
Sent from
On 12/20/2014 02:53 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Excellent point that the easiest thing is no computer. That's what I
do. If necessary, I'll pull out the GPS on my phone for navigation,
but that is rare. I do it because I much prefer the freedom I
experience not riding to the computer (I'm too
+1 Steve!
It turns out that my bike computer has a distance +/- function, where, at some
point on the cue sheet, I can enter the difference between the distance on the
computer and the distance on the cue sheet. If I display that function, it
shows the corrected distance.
Many cue sheets are
The ones I have are old style, I think. They are those ratchety kind like
came on cheap bikes. The mechanism feels similar to Sun Tour barcons.
They may even be Sun Tour.
dougP
On Saturday, December 20, 2014 12:58:54 PM UTC-8, James Warren wrote:
Plug for the new IRD mounts here. I love
One of those things that got swept away with the cheesy things of the past even
though it was not a cheesy thing. Guilt by association.
I think the fact that stem shifters have made a tiny comeback is a sign of how
good they are. Forum member Beth H brought them to my attention on good new
+1 on the MSR snowshoes. I got 15+ years out of a pair with little
maintenance and the add a tail feature is fantastic for variable snow
conditions. No tail for hard pack and screw on a tail for powder.
check out www.steepandcheap.com for good snowshoe deals
On Saturday, December 20, 2014
I found some bases and complete old-timey sets. So far it appears that
bolt size/threads are different than modern M5, but after that is
figured out, I may be able to get something to work.
On Sat, Dec 20, 2014 at 2:47 PM, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:
One of those things that got
Hey Lynne! Help me understand how what I said violates the big tent of
different approaches to riding by different people? Do you consider sharing
personal approaches that are different judgmental?
With abandon,
Patrick
On Saturday, December 20, 2014 3:11:26 PM UTC-7, Lynne Fitz wrote:
+1
I use the CX-70 as the front brake on my Miyata commuter. Two observations:
1. fit/finish, and feel is good in my opinion - better modulation than the
CR720s or V-Brakes I've used (Deore, XT).
2. the hanger and cable attachment on these are more complicated than they
need to be.
I replaced
http://eprider.blogspot.com/2014/12/solstice-ride.html
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Beautiful and evocative. You have a gift. Thanks for sharing it.
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The wife and I have ancient pairs of Atlas that have always done well in
the wet, heavy 'Sierra cement'. BUT, the kids have MSRs, and I think these
are the superior design for anything short of frequent, intense use or
backcountry applications. Pretty light, pretty cheap, and dead simple.
I'll bet the price will be about half of Babyshoe Passes when they get
fully out on the market. I'm sure I'll get a pair for my camping bike.
Super happy to have another 40+mm road tire to choose from.
~mike
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I very much appreciate that, on their web page, Boulder Bikes states:
We love lugged frames, but all the love in the world doesn't enable them to
actually ride better or faster. So the reality is that a $1,435 Tig Boulder
Bicycle frame will perform just as well on the road as one of our $6,000
Jim,
Have you used Hetres before?
If so, how do the Loups compare?
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Patrick’s Motobecane and I went out in the rain yesterday. Here’s the video:
http://youtu.be/Li0B9vUlt-Q
—Eric N
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org
Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @campyonlyguy
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I knew it! :)
On Thursday, December 18, 2014, Cyclofiend Jim cyclofi...@earthlink.net
wrote:
Yep. He's on this list... hey!?!?! that's ME!
That image was from a visit to the RBWHQL - I was snapping images of
staff bicycle parking. Which is consistent with the comments which follow.
- Jim
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