Scott has probably already done his research, but just in case it helps
anyone else on the list, here are four bars that, as far as I can tell,
offer a similar shape:
- Nitto B2522 Jitensha bar: aluminum, 580mm wide, no rise
- Ahearne + MAP bar: aluminum, 575mm or 615mm wide, 25mm rise
-
PDW also offers a product that makes it very easy to remove the
struts: https://www.ridepdw.com/goods/spare-parts/fmf-safety-tabs. I have
them on my Simpleone with VO fenders. Work like a dream.
Steve Cole
Arlington, VA
On Friday, September 30, 2016 at 6:26:06 PM UTC-4, Jack Doran wrote:
>
I agree. But I wish they'd inverted the ratios: 100%, -15%, -25% for (in
this case) 70", 60", 45".
On Fri, Sep 30, 2016 at 10:04 PM, Eric Norris wrote:
> IMHO, the S3X with a freewheel is a better system than a “normal”
> Sturmei-Archer hub. Putting the pawls on the outside
IMHO, the S3X with a freewheel is a better system than a “normal”
Sturmei-Archer hub. Putting the pawls on the outside (in the freewheel) makes
repairs easier. I run mine White Industries “Eno” freewheels, which are
practically indestructible, but easily repairable if need be.
The lack of
These things- http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/fe83.htm
$4 well spent.
-Kai
Brooklyn NY
On Friday, September 30, 2016 at 6:26:06 PM UTC-4, Jack Doran wrote:
>
> I'm in the market for some new fenders and I have a question for those of
> you who run fenders on a Quickbeam, SimpleOne or any bike
I have fenders on my Simpleone. I'm able to remove/reinstall the wheel while
the tire is not inflated. It just squeezes past the fender when I need to fix a
flap, which is really the only time I remove the wheel. I've been running this
set up with a pretty decent, traditional fender arch for
I use the black plastic releases that Riv sells, they allow the SKS struts to
pop in and out, no bolts or unbolts required.
-Kai
Brooklyn NY
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and, Paul also makes a 120mm rear hub with allen bolts that would allow
a similar "drop out" maneuver.
Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
On Friday, September 30, 2016 at 4:18:49 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> +1
>
> My bike with full-fenders and track ends is a Gunnar, and it has a Phil
>
+1
My bike with full-fenders and track ends is a Gunnar, and it has a Phil
rear hub. Pull the bolts and the wheel drops straight out.
Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
On Friday, September 30, 2016 at 3:30:01 PM UTC-7, Clayton.sf wrote:
>
> I have solved that by using bolt on Phil Wood hubs. The
I didn't realize PW included such a trick. All the more reason to shell out
the cash for them next time around. Thanks for the info!
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I've had 2 sets of SKS fenders, one Honjos, one set of the Soma 650bs and
one set of Stainless Berthoud's.
Only the Berthouds didn't make want to rip my own head off and toss it off
a cliff.
- Ryan
On Thursday, September 29, 2016 at 2:57:21 PM UTC-7, Edwin W wrote:
>
> I am eventually going
The Jitensha bars work great, but if you want higher/wider, go with the
MAPs. MAPS are more versatile as you can run your stem lower if they're too
high, and even cut them down if too wide.
On Friday, September 30, 2016 at 7:39:16 AM UTC-7, Scott McLain wrote:
>
> I am in my late forties and
This place was recommended to me. They have hardware that looks pretty good.
https://sim.works/collections/fenders-simworks-by-honjo
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I have solved that by using bolt on Phil Wood hubs. The bolts can be
screwed out all the way. At the point the wheel can be simply taken out.
Clayton Scott,
SF, CA
On Friday, September 30, 2016 at 3:26:06 PM UTC-7, Jack Doran wrote:
>
> I'm in the market for some new fenders and I have a
I'm in the market for some new fenders and I have a question for those of
you who run fenders on a Quickbeam, SimpleOne or any bike with a track fork
end: how does one make changing out a rear flat simpler? I got a pinch flat
on my rear tire some time back while running some SKS Longboards and
I just swapped my Cross Check from Albatross bars to the Jitensha bars a few
weeks ago. Mainly, because Albatross bars are crazy expensive, I got the
Jitensha for cheap & I am planning on selling the CC, since I just got an
Atlantis.
That said, I liked'em more. Sort of a happy accident, but
I am waiting on some Albastaches, but I rode Mustache bsrs for years on my XO-1
& I agree there's probably no need for extra levers.
The thing with those bars is that aside from having your hand right next to the
stem (which isn't that comfortable) you typically have a finger or two on the
David, Not entirely. I used one existing hole and then drilled a second. It
took some futzing (as it always does) to get a good fender line. If I had
it to do over I would rather have an undrilled fender to start with. I used
the 50mm VO Snakeskin on my Hilsen.
On Friday, September 30, 2016 at
JPW often uses VOs, which certainly is a relevant data point (to me, anyway).
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Minh
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2016 2:39 PM
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Subject: [RBW] Re: VO vs Berthoud fenders
I own all
Probably corrosion. If it's just in spots - like where your sweaty
sunscreened leg brushes against it when you turn the wheel sharply while
standing at a light straddling the bike (as mine are plagued by) - the
answer is Blue Magic. If it's all over, evenly distributed making an
attractive
I love my Honjos. But expensive.
Hammered.
They are getting a fuzzy white looking patina in them. Don't know what that is.
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Eric,
I have both on bikes, i prefer the albatross but then i like the wider bars
(despite my size 38 suit shoulders). I think the Dove bars are noticeably
narrower, also less area around the curves to hold onto. looking at them
just now, i can't say there is more rise or up-sweep.
On
I own all three (though my Honjo's are on the shelf), the toe-overlap on
the fronts are real with the VO. when i got mine the VO were only single
eye drilled (at one point i think they were undrilled) so swapping in the
Berthoud stays meant drilling your own holes. Now that the VO are
I second the recommendation of using VO fenders (for lightness and drilled
bridge holes) with Berthoud stays (for better and less fiddly fit).
On Thursday, September 29, 2016 at 5:57:21 PM UTC-4, Edwin W wrote:
>
> I am eventually going to get around to putting bigger fenders on my
> Appaloosa,
Seems like VO is working on a quill 31.8 faceplate stem, which will allow
many more people to try out mountain bars on their quill bikes!
On Friday, September 30, 2016 at 1:44:18 PM UTC-4, dstein wrote:
>
> I second the Map bars, they're just like the Jitensha's but wider,
> especially
I second the Map bars, they're just like the Jitensha's but wider,
especially important if you are running shifters. I have had both and would
go map again if I went that route.
Though ultimately I'd recommend Jones H Bar, but wont' work with a quill
stem (unless you had one custom made like
BTW: someone earlier had asked me about the Rally, and I've lost his/your
email. See price and contact me if you still want it.
On Fri, Sep 30, 2016 at 11:20 AM, Patrick Moore wrote:
> I was able to talk to Stevie just now and here are prices. Sorry for the
> lousy photos;
Sorry, Bill -- hasty misreading and habitual crotchety-ness,
mmblemblemble...
On Fri, Sep 30, 2016 at 11:24 AM, William Lindsay
wrote:
> I just deleted a post that pointed out there were no prices. Since the OP
> has started a new thread with a clear list of prices, my
I just deleted a post that pointed out there were no prices. Since the OP
has started a new thread with a clear list of prices, my post was no longer
accurate, so I deleted it.
Bill resume-shopping Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
On Friday, September 30, 2016 at 10:02:21 AM UTC-7, bertin753 wrote:
>
I have no more questions on these For Sale items that state no prices,
thanks
Bill
On Friday, September 30, 2016 at 10:02:21 AM UTC-7, bertin753 wrote:
>
> OK, Bill, I'll leave you out of all of this. Next question?
>
>
>
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I have Origin8 Space Bars on my Atlantis with Tektro mtb brake levers & Paul
thumbie mounts for shift levers. Ergon grips for comfort.
Doug p
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I have Origin8 Space Bars on my Atlantis with Tektro mtb brake levers & Paul
thumbie mounts for shift levers. Ergon grips for comfort.
Doug p
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OK, Bill, I'll leave you out of all of this. Next question?
On Fri, Sep 30, 2016 at 10:20 AM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
> Did Stevie ask you to sell this stuff for him? Or are you just trying to
> help us out by making us aware of these unmarketed treasures?
>
> Your item #4
I have Origin8 Space Bars on my Atlantis with Tektro mtb brake levers & Paul
thumbie mounts for shift levers. Ergon grips for comfort.
Doug p
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Building up a new commuter after retiring my trusty Schwinn Voyageur due to
a cracked seat-tube. Transferring most parts over to a VO Campeur.
I had a single speed setup, but will be building up a geared bike so will
need a different rear wheel.
So looking for...
Rear wheel with the following
Did Stevie ask you to sell this stuff for him? Or are you just trying to
help us out by making us aware of these unmarketed treasures?
Your item #4 claims to be a Suntour Mountech rear der, which is not
pictured. Your pictures show a Suntour Superbe TECH rear der which is not
listed. If
I have the Jitensha bar on a 1990 road bike (Bottechia) which I converted
to upright bars. I like them a lot. For me the width is fine and the
no-rise not a problem. Plus they look really great in my opinion. I'd
encourage you to give them a try. I also have the VO version which does
have
How about the Choco norm? There's a good picture showing the two on
Rivendell's site.
On Friday, September 30, 2016 at 7:39:16 AM UTC-7, Scott McLain wrote:
>
> I am in my late forties and am starting to feel my back getting more sore
> on and off the bike. So I have been messing around with
Sim Works "Get around bar" is my favorite if you want a similar option
that's a bit wider
On Friday, September 30, 2016 at 7:39:16 AM UTC-7, Scott McLain wrote:
>
> I am in my late forties and am starting to feel my back getting more sore
> on and off the bike. So I have been messing around
FWIW Scott regarding the Albatross. Since I take it by your interest in
the other bars you are not using bar end shifters. That so, with the
Albatross you can used bar end brake levers and thumbshifters mounted
around the curve so you have the entire usable portion of the bar to place
your
I would go MAP bars. The rise is excellent, and the bends are nice. They
are wider than Jitenshas, which is easier to fit shifters/brakes on the
bar. I only sold mine, because I went dirt drops
On Friday, September 30, 2016 at 10:39:16 AM UTC-4, Scott McLain wrote:
>
> I am in my late forties
I've had both, returned bertroud fenders when I got my VO fenders in. Not
an indictment on Bertroud fenders, just how much VO fenders' quality were
above my expectations and were cheaper. Looking now, I think VO bumped up
their price since I last checked three years ago, so Bertrouds are only a
I am in my late forties and am starting to feel my back getting more sore
on and off the bike. So I have been messing around with different bars.
I'm doing it on my non-quill trucker so it is pretty easy to swap stuff
around. I am not sure I like the hand position on the albatross, meaning
FWIW, #3 the Campy seatpost appears to be a Victory/Triomphe model from the
mid-late 80's.
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to
Brian,
Did the pre-dilled holes for the stays on the VO fenders line up with the
Berthoud stays? Curious which VO fenders you used as I'm looking to do the
same with some VO Zeppelin fenders I'll be installing.
David
Chicago
On Thursday, September 29, 2016 at 9:16:04 PM UTC-5, Brian Campbell
Here is about all you need to know Eric as fa as information.
http://www.benscycle.com/p-1270-nitto-b347aa-alloy-northroad-handlebar-515mm.aspx
http://store.somafab.com/nib3dobar.html
http://www.skinnyerics.com/shop/components/stems-and-bars/handlebars/nitto-b347-dove-bar/
For a narrower
Having used Bertoud's, VO's and Honjos, my answer is it depends on the bike
and your wallet. The Bertouds have a slight weight penalty but are very
stiff and therefore ideal for bad roads and trails. The VO's are a bit
lighter and maybe more appropriate for a rondenee or go fast set up. If I
I personally like the easier to install fender stays of the Berthoud
fenders. With the VO it seems like if you don't get the curve of the stay
centered in the two darumas (or whatever they are) just right the fender
line is always a little wonky. I've got Berthoud 700x50 on my hillborne and
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