Hey Christian,
I've got a 30" that I've been using for a couple of months now, and I like
it just fine. Long enough to wrap around a post, rear wheel and seat tube,
and I cinch it up nice a tight (per the instructions). It's super light for
a lock and I really only trust it for quick stops. I
Not quite ready for prime time here with this tandem, and my smarter,
better, more sane half has "no way, no how'd" it after submitting to a
block long test run. I'm hoping to dial it in a bit and try for a redo
soon, maybe get the stoker bars a little forward would do it. I put the
shifters
On Sunday, May 27, 2018 at 5:00:29 PM UTC-7, Jonathan D. wrote:
> No relation. Just saw this on Craigslist. Rivendell Atlantis 56cm
>
> https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/bik/d/rivendell-atlantis-56cm/6600752528.html56cm
Here it is: https://flic.kr/p/J8XJVt
I swapped everything over from my
SOLD!
On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 10:30:57 AM UTC-5, stoker wrote:
>
> Hi All -
>
> I have a set of *8 speed Shimano bar ends* for sale - they are in great
> shape.
>
> $50 shipped CONUS.
>
> Thanks - Bob
>
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Almost purely aesthetic reasons, but also I like the idea of a more rigid mount
for a touring bike. That said, I have no experience with the Tubus mounts and
have heard they’re very sturdy.
Of course there’s also the tinkering aspect. I have an idea for a better mount
so now I have to try.
SOLD
>
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Beautiful! Nothing else quite like an Atlantis. Glad you've put it back on
the road!
Evan Elliot
SF, CA
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sorry, meant to say Cane Creek levers.
The cross interrupters are by Paul.
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Hi Gang,
For all of us Atlantis lovers:
Another garage find... like my others, ok, the truth is I found this one in
my *own* garage. I bought this direct from RBWHQ in about 2003, I think
when I got my custom. For a variety of reasons, I didn't ride it much over
the years. The bike wants
Option #3
Consider the Nitto big front rack (32F I think). Sure, it’s not a low
rider, and sure it won’t work with the top rack you currently have, but I
believe it will mount to the mid fork braze-ons and it’s a great freakin’
rack for loaded touring. Looking forward to adding mine to my Joe
Option #2- strip and braze (then paint?/wax?/rust)
Then braise, eat, and ride away into the sunset...
-Kai
BKNY
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And all Hubbuhubbuhs are 650b, easily clearing 2.35s...
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I would if you are interested in the bags also. Both brand new.
Ryan Hankinson
West Michigan, MI
(616)928-4226
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194cm wheelbase on a large Hubbuhubbuh (rough measurement of a dangling bike)
66cm-ish virtual captain toptube (62 actual)
70cm-ish stoker toptube (51 actual)
-Kai
BKNY
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I measured the distance from fork eyelet to Riv. Mid fork eyelets and it is 10”
vs the standard 6.5”.
Back to the drawing board.
Still want to hear other work arounds/options.
Edwin
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The tubus clamps are a great option. Use some gaffers tape and the provided
rubber shim and no harm will come to your fork, guaranteed.
-Kai
BKNY
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Darin,
I am curious, why are you trying to avoid the Tubus mid fork clamps? Do
they damage the fork or create problems? I haven't used them but am
loosely considering them for a performance-bike
tour.
https://www.jejamescycles.com/tubus-fork-blade-clip-hks3988.html?___store=us
Thanks,
Joe
I like mine! So small and light, perfect for its intend purpose.
We can lock up 2 bikes w/ the 30 no problem. 3 bikes if you pile and don't
lock to anything.
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In case you've never played around with adjusting the radius on a fender, I
can expand a little on John and William's answer.
If you open up a fender (spread the sides apart), it makes the radius of
the whole fender gets smaller. If you pinch the sides of the fender
together, the overall
By way of a minority report, I switched from Chain-L to TriFlow a few years
ago, after a fervent recommendation from a bike mechanic. This struck me as
eccentric at the time, too light, but I tried it and have been getting good
results. Not as messy as Chain-L, does seem to keep the chain
Interesting. I had not thought about that. Thank you.
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Yes, a toptube measurement would be great. And what are the hubs?
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Anything can make a bike go click but for me it's usually one thing: the bottom
bracket isn't snug enough. Grant mentioned this already and I concur.
Almost every bike I've owned this has popped up, and usually right after I've
installed the BB. I've even used a bit of teflon tape on really
I’m working on a solution for a Tara on my early-2000’s Atlantis w mid-fork
eyelets positioned for a 32F rack. They are too high for a level Tara by about
65mm, quite a ways.
I am trying to avoid the Tubus clamp-on things so am working on some drop down
brackets to bridge the gap. Hopefully
Did the same around 2.25” TBs
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Not sure if clearences I the Atlantis will be comparable, but I used VO 700x63
fenders on our 650B x2” shod HHH tandem. Had to adjust the radius a bit for a
nice fender line but really was not too much trouble.
Best of luck
John in Jersey City
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My riding has the best/worst of the wet/dry/dirty/muddy. I gave up with the dry
(wax) flavor and just ad a drop per link of chainsaw oil when the chain tells
me it needs it (as in I hear the chain. This is my take on Sheldon Brown’s idea
that most people over lube and in so doing adhere micro
'I feel good about it and doing it raises me to a higher level of
eccentricity among my friends."
Ok, I literally laughed out loud.
I thought I was the only person who enjoyed such feelings ;)
Oh and I use wet lube if anyone cares.
Jim
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Awesome bike, Kim! Good luck with your sale
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To post to this
> * I’m thinking either a Sam or Atlantis might fit the bill.*
>
I believe you are on the right track. A Sam would be a bit more nimble and
you can get the bars up. That, IMHO, is #1 for city riding. I was at my LBS
and a local engineer crafted a periscope like gizmo that mounted on drop
I’ve been using a Gordon low rider for 20 years on 4 different bikes. Some
panniers fit better than others. My oldest Ortliebs don’t have vertical
adjustment on the ‘flipper’nesr the bottom and it interferes with cross
strut on the rack.Steve
On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 11:28 AM William!
wrote:
So the mid fork braze-ons on the Joe Appa are too high? That is, the
distance from dropout to mid fork braze-on is greater than "typical?"
H
I will be interested to hear what people do.
Thanks!
On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 9:54:34 AM UTC-5, Bob Lovejoy wrote:
>
> Without true mid-fork
Age makes me a slower rider. lol :D
Agree with others that it's probably more handlebar related. Upright
positions will naturally be safer and slower.
For the frame, choose on the style of riding.
On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 10:30:55 AM UTC-5, John W wrote:
>
> I’ve been thinking a lot about
I think an upright "see over things" riding position and good brakes (all Rivs
offer both) are paramount for city riding. I don't agree that being slower is
safer; as an ebiker I've discovered I feel safer in traffic when I can take
over the lane on a 25mph side street instead of threading
Good points. I definitely think it’s intentional. But sometimes the tool puts
you in the... right intention?
When I play guitar, I have an instrument with light gauge strings set close to
the fretboard on a relatively short scale neck. It inspires me to improvise
lines and play with large note
I like the idea of the *drive belts* for the timing "drive". Unfortunately,
they're *ridiculously expensive*. :-(
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John,
You equate slow with safe, but is that what you mean to do? If by “slow,” you
mean intentional, then the bike matters not at all. Cultivate an attitude of
intentional contentment when riding and join traffic to be seen as traffic and
ride any bike you want. Grin.
With abandon,
Patrick
2007... or therebouts.
On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 6:33:25 AM UTC-7, Mike Gillespie wrote:
>
> FYI, the wheelbase on our small size Hubbabubba measures approx. 1905mm.
> This one was from the latest batch of frames, just purchased in March.
> Comparing the Bill’s chainstay photo to ours, I’d
I bought the ingredients on ebay and have been waxing for a couple of
years. I have no idea how it compares in durability. I mostly am a fair
weather rider so rain not much of a factor. I can say the chain and
cassette stay really clean and the mess when fixing rear flats or
derailments is
1) I believe your premise to be faulty. In my experience safety for cyclists in
the city comes from good infrastructure, then driver awareness then cyclist
behavior.
2) Any Riv where your hands are above the saddle will give you the relaxed
feeling you seek. I ride a Saluki with MAP bars and
Ps: fatter tires help too. You don’t have to worry about the smaller potholes
and other road debris as much. 38s or larger.
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John,
I would say it’s more handlebar dependent than frame, as most Riv frames ride
well with swept back bars. I find handlebars that sweep back allow for a more
relaxed upright riding position, while also allowing for a more aggressive
riding style when gripped closer to the stem. Think
I forgot there's at least 2 Joe B's on the list. Here's part of the stash:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/joe_bunik/page4
On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 8:49:38 AM UTC-7, Jim M. wrote:
>
> Contact Joe B on this list and see what he has from his massive stash of
> Bruce Gordon racks.
>
> jim m
>
Cheviut!! And Clem L, too. For city riding, I believe step-throughs and mixtes
are the bees knees :)
-Ana, riding her purpleriv mixte since 2016 :)
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Contact Joe B on this list and see what he has from his massive stash of
Bruce Gordon racks.
jim m
walnut creek, ca
On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 7:28:05 AM UTC-7, Edwin W wrote:
>
> I have a Joe Appaloosa with a Mark’s rack, Wald medium and a rear
> rack.That is all fine and good, but I was
Kim,
Thanks for posting this beautiful and unique bike. To help with you sale, I
suggest you list the seat tube and top tube lengths and more specifics on the
components. Good luck!
Doug Bloch
Alameda C A USA
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Michael,
It may look like a hassle at first for acquiring the necessary stuff and
thoroughly cleaning the chain to prep it for waxing. This is only done ONCE.
Thereafter, it takes only five minutes (+30 min of heating and letting it cool
down) every three or so weeks in dry weather, every week
(Apologies for cross-posting)
Does anyone have a Nitto pannier rack that they’d like to let go of?
Nitto Rack MF-2 Lowrider Set (aka Nitto Mark's Hub Area Rack, hoopless)
Thanks,
Sean
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I’ve been thinking a lot about safety, and about what it means to “underbike”
in the city, in the name of keeping oneself purposely at lower-than-average
speeds and maximally visible to pedestrians and cars.
Naturally, most of this is in the hands of the cyclist. The best safety is
defensive
Oh man, did they really discontinue the hoopfull hub area rack as well? It's
such a swell rack.
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I live in VT, so wet & green. I live 3 miles down a dirt road so all of my
rides include at least 6 miles of dirt and many rides considerable more.
I am motivated to try wax by the timing chain on my tandem. It is long and
it needs to be removed when we break the bike apart and stick it in
I'm a fan of Honjo and VO fenders, but what are my other options for good
quality metal fenders for 50mm 650b tires?
VO does not seem to go that large and I see that Honjo has 2 options, in smooth
or hammered.
Thanks,
Matt, building up a new Atlantis in Oswego, IL
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I have a Joe Appaloosa with a Mark’s rack, Wald medium and a rear rack.That
is all fine and good, but I was thinking of getting a front lowrider rack
to throw on when I am going camping. Partly to experiment with weight
distribution.
What do you all like?
I see the Tubus Duo
Michael, do you live in wet or dry environs? I hear wax is best for dry but not
wet. I live in humid/rainy Maryland and find Chain-L to last a couple months
before a reoiling necessary.
I get 100-200 miles only out of wax.
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I do it and i don't think is s hassle. The only real advantage I see is that,
by soaking the chain, you are reasonably assured each bearing gets lube on
it. Of course parrifin is cleaner than oil and that's the only advantage to
waxing.
I clean the chain ounce every 4-6 weeks with a
Actually, the ratcheting itself doesn't really do anything it's still
held in place by pressure from the washer. Loosen a racheting shifter and
what happens ? It moves just like any other friction shifter, because it
is. The clicks sound neat and all and give the impression that they
Garth's method doesn't work well in very sandy or dusty environments. Oils
grit the chain up immediately; most "dry" lubes build up into waxy gunk,
and in any case, applying liquid lube over a gritty chain just leaches grit
into the innards.
With the Molten wax I described just now, you clean
I didn't have good results with plain paraffin after several years of using
it, though others have said they get very good results. But last year I
started to use "Molten Speed Wax" which seems to work much better despite
its stupid name.
"Better" means that the chain is quiet for at least 200
FYI, the wheelbase on our small size Hubbabubba measures approx. 1905mm.
This one was from the latest batch of frames, just purchased in March.
Comparing the Bill’s chainstay photo to ours, I’d agree that his appears
somewhat longer.
Mike G.
Sequim, WA
On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 4:48 AM Michael
Search google for*hot wax chains cycling . *
Scroll Pick and choose a link .
Asking if it's worth it or not , you will get yes it's worth it and no it's
not. No surprise .
A lube is a lube is a lube . those that claim "mine is best" are simply
defending their choice only.
I did a search on this and was surprised not to find anything. (Except
waxing cloth!)
After 40+ years of cleaning and lubing chains I may be ready to try wax. I
recently got a recipe & process on the tandem list but wondered about the
experience of people on this list. How much extra work is
Sorry to hear this didn't work out for you. I have seen lots of
discussions around frame weights on the tandem list, which makes almost no
difference whatsoever, but no discussions about bike length, which is in
fact the most difficult aspect of tandems. They are a challenge to
transport and
When in doubt , always look at the ETRTO , (European Tire and Rim
Technical Organization). Apparently, according to
this http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html , scroll down to the
Fractional sizes and you'll see that 584 has referred to French ,
26-1/2(650B). As ISO standard
Hi Kim,
Such a beautiful bike and seems to be very reasonably priced! IMHO, I
think it is quite worthy of a FS posting. I have made very limited
contributions, opinion wise, to this forum; but have sold (and bought) a
number of items that I feel I've priced very reasonably. If I had not
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