[RBW] Re: Ottolock Initial Reviews???

[John Rinker]

Hey Christian,

I've got a 30" that I've been using for a couple of months now, and I like 
it just fine. Long enough to wrap around a post, rear wheel and seat tube, 
and I cinch it up nice a tight (per the instructions). It's super light for 
a lock and I really only trust it for quick stops. I watched the video 
posted by tc and cannot relate to the videomaker's experience as my lock 
seems tight and solid when locked. 

For more heavy-duty security I use an ABUS U-lock mini 40; not as light as 
the Ottolock, but pretty compact and seemingly bombproof. 

Cheers,
John

On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 12:29:03 PM UTC-7, christian poppell wrote:
>
> Any users of the improved Ottolock out there? I heard the first batch was 
> comically easy to "pick" the combination lock. They fixed it enough that 
> Rivendell is now selling them. Anyone pick up the updated lock? Is 30" 
> enough lock? I keep finding myself without a good locking solution for 
> grocery and cafe stops. This looks like it could be a good option...
>
> Christian
> Berkeley, CA
>

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[RBW] Hubbuhubbuh Tandem, large WIP

[Kainalu V.]

Not quite ready for prime time here with this tandem, and my smarter, 
better, more sane half has "no way, no how'd" it after submitting to a 
block long test run. I'm hoping to dial it in a bit and try for a redo 
soon, maybe get the stoker bars a little forward would do it. I put the 
shifters on the back bars to stoke the stoker with the power to shift, and 
it's easy enough to shift "suicide" style if I'm solo, likely I'll be 
moving the shifters to the front soon enough. Maybe I'll ride in back 
(she's 5'8" and I'm a foot taller. Bad idea?), regardless, the kids are 
growing quick and'll be reaching those pedals soon enough. I've also got 
some clamp on cranks I picked up off the list that I might set up to get 
them stoking sooner, but it only looks to be a year or so away that my 
oldest will be able to touch down on those pedals, so probably not. 
Anyhows, here's some pictures. Those are 2.35" 650b G-ones with plenty of 
room to spare, and the head badges came off of some decommissioned beamers. 
It's been said there'll be hubbuh badges coming along eventually, but I 
really like the beams riding along with me/us, but if the kids end up 
sharing their mother's concerns it'd probably be best to have those badge 
options available in the event of a sad sale. 
The build is--
40 hole Velocity Cliffhangers front and rear on a velocity rear hub and SON 
front dyno hub. 
Schwalbe 2.35 G-ones, set up tubeless
Silver cranks, 178mm front, 170 rear
Deore derailers shifted with some old stem mount Suntour friction shifters. 
Front's just a chain guide right now...
Brooklyn Bikes bar in the rear, flipped albas up front (to get slightly 
lower, giving the stoker a better view?)
VP pedals, comfy out back, spikey up front
and Brooks saddle (b68 front, b17s back)

Saddle height's somewhere in the low to mid 80's in the picture, a little 
low for me but good for getting both feet down if and when needed.
Can't wait to put some miles on it
-Kai
BKNY








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[RBW] Re: PSA 56 Atlantis Portland Oregon

[DarinM]

On Sunday, May 27, 2018 at 5:00:29 PM UTC-7, Jonathan D. wrote:
> No relation. Just saw this on Craigslist.  Rivendell Atlantis 56cm
>  
> https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/bik/d/rivendell-atlantis-56cm/6600752528.html56cm

Here it is: https://flic.kr/p/J8XJVt

I swapped everything over from my last drop bar MTB conversion except for the 
27.2 seatpost and traded the compact Suntour XC Pro’s for the Ritchey Logics. 
First ride was today, love it. Working on a way to mount my Tara rack.

Darin

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[RBW] Re: FS - Shimano 8 Speed Bar Ends

[stoker]

SOLD!

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 10:30:57 AM UTC-5, stoker wrote:
>
> Hi All -
>
> I have a set of *8 speed Shimano bar ends* for sale - they are in great 
> shape.
>
> $50 shipped CONUS.
>
> Thanks - Bob 
>

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[RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[DarinM]

Almost purely aesthetic reasons, but also I like the idea of a more rigid mount 
for a touring bike. That said, I have no experience with the Tubus mounts and 
have heard they’re very sturdy.

Of course there’s also the tinkering aspect. I have an idea for a better mount 
so now I have to try.

Darin

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[RBW] Re: FS: A. Homer Hilsen Frame 56/650b

[d2mini]

SOLD


>

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[RBW] Re: Pics of an older Atlantis Garage Find, updated

[Evan E.]

Beautiful! Nothing else quite like an Atlantis. Glad you've put it back on 
the road!

Evan Elliot
SF, CA

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[RBW] Re: Pics of an older Atlantis Garage Find, updated

[reynoldslugs]

sorry, meant to say Cane Creek levers.

The cross interrupters are by Paul.


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[RBW] Pics of an older Atlantis Garage Find, updated

[reynoldslugs]

Hi Gang,

For all of us Atlantis  lovers:

Another garage find... like my others, ok, the truth is I found this one in 
my *own* garage.  I bought this direct from RBWHQ in about 2003, I think 
when I got my custom. For a variety of reasons, I didn't ride it much over 
the years.  The bike wants to be ridden, so this year I had the Boys at the 
Shop (Preston the Magician) revitalize and resuscitate.  New wheels, Chris 
King hubs, new Compass Snoqualmie Pass tires - which are of course super 
fun to ride.  Super low gears - - insofar as I am constantly rehabbing from 
one thing or another, I make no apologies for ultra low gears.  An NOS 
Doere crankset goes down to 22-34-44, matched with a 12-36 cassette gives 
gears so low, even I don't need 'em.Paul Cantis stop me just fine, 
thanks.  Fat tektro TRP levers suit me pretty well, too.

Pics here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/41563482@N06/albums/72157696979339224

I've been riding it around the neighborhood and up Los Alamos Road for the 
last couple weeks, perhaps I'll ride this handsome lad out through West 
County on the Team Swift Ride tomorrow.

Enjoy and best regards

Max Beach
Santa Rosa CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[hugh flynn]

Option #3

Consider the Nitto big front rack (32F I think). Sure, it’s not a low
rider, and sure it won’t work with the top rack you currently have, but I
believe it will mount to the mid fork braze-ons and it’s a great freakin’
rack for loaded touring. Looking forward to adding mine to my Joe shortly.

Hugh “Sure, but...” Flynn
Newburyport, MA.




On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 7:11 PM Kainalu V.  wrote:

> Option #2- strip and braze (then paint?/wax?/rust)
> Then braise, eat, and ride away into the sunset...
> -Kai
> BKNY
>
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Newburyport, MA

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[RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[Kainalu V.]

Option #2- strip and braze (then paint?/wax?/rust)
Then braise, eat, and ride away into the sunset...
-Kai
BKNY 

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[RBW] Re: Hubbabubba Frame For Sale

[Kainalu V.]

And all Hubbuhubbuhs are 650b, easily clearing 2.35s...

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[RBW] WTB: Mark's Hub Area Rack, hoopless

[Abcyclehank]

I would if you are interested in the bags also.  Both brand new.

Ryan Hankinson
West Michigan, MI
(616)928-4226

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[RBW] Re: Hubbabubba Frame For Sale

[Kainalu V.]

194cm wheelbase on a large Hubbuhubbuh (rough measurement of a dangling bike)
66cm-ish virtual captain toptube (62 actual)
70cm-ish stoker toptube (51 actual)
-Kai 
BKNY 

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[RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[Edwin W]

I measured the distance from fork eyelet to Riv. Mid fork eyelets and it is 10” 
vs the standard 6.5”. 

Back to the drawing board. 

Still want to hear other work arounds/options. 

Edwin

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[RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[Kainalu V.]

The tubus clamps are a great option. Use some gaffers tape and the provided 
rubber shim and no harm will come to your fork, guaranteed.
-Kai 
BKNY 

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[RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

['Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Darin,

I am curious, why are you trying to avoid the Tubus mid fork clamps? Do 
they damage the fork or create problems?  I haven't used them but am 
loosely considering them for a performance-bike 
tour. 
https://www.jejamescycles.com/tubus-fork-blade-clip-hks3988.html?___store=us

Thanks,
Joe in GJT

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 12:27:42 PM UTC-6, DarinM wrote:
>
> I’m working on a solution for a Tara on my early-2000’s Atlantis w 
> mid-fork eyelets positioned for a 32F rack. They are too high for a level 
> Tara by about 65mm, quite a ways. 
>
> I am trying to avoid the Tubus clamp-on things so am working on some drop 
> down brackets to bridge the gap. Hopefully will have something done this 
> week 
>
> Darin

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[RBW] Re: Ottolock Initial Reviews???

[Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles]

I like mine! So small and light, perfect for its intend purpose.

We can lock up 2 bikes w/ the 30 no problem.  3 bikes if you pile and don't 
lock to anything.

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[RBW] Re: 650b fenders for 50mm tires?

[Brad]

In case you've never played around with adjusting the radius on a fender, I 
can expand a little on John and William's answer. 

If you open up a fender (spread the sides apart), it makes the radius of 
the whole fender gets smaller. If you pinch the sides of the fender 
together, the overall radius gets bigger. The wide 700C fenders from VO are 
perfect because in making them a tiny bit wider (which is always a good 
thing if it fits the fork, seatstay, and chainstays and helps fit wider 
tires) makes the radius a little bit smaller. 

There aren't a lot of options for tires that wide and the VO fenders are 
inexpensive compared to other options (like Honjo).

Brad 
Queens


On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 10:50:17 AM UTC-4, Matt Beecher wrote:
>
> I'm a fan of Honjo and VO fenders, but what are my other options for good 
> quality metal fenders for 50mm 650b tires?
>
> VO does not seem to go that large and I see that Honjo has 2 options, in 
> smooth or hammered.  
>
> Thanks,
> Matt, building up a new Atlantis in Oswego, IL
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Hot waxing chains?

[Rod Holland]

By way of a minority report, I switched from Chain-L to TriFlow a few years 
ago, after a fervent recommendation from a bike mechanic. This struck me as 
eccentric at the time, too light, but I tried it and have been getting good 
results. Not as messy as Chain-L, does seem to keep the chain lubed. One 
drop per link, re-apply when that seems to be called for. I ride in Eastern 
Massachusetts, so rainy and sometimes snowy. About 30% of my riding is on 
dirt.

rod

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 2:00:49 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> My riding has the best/worst of the wet/dry/dirty/muddy. I gave up with 
> the dry (wax) flavor and just ad a drop per link of chainsaw oil when the 
> chain tells me it needs it (as in I hear the chain. This is my take on 
> Sheldon Brown’s idea that most people over lube and in so doing adhere 
> micro dirt to the oil and get in into the links where it causes wear. I 
> only lube each link from the top, starting at the quicklink. Externally, 
> things get a bit goopy, but not that bad. And now I only have fixed 
> drivetrain, there are fewer bits to goop. Grin. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick

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[RBW] 650b fenders for 50mm tires?

[Matt Beecher]

Interesting. I had not thought about that. Thank you. 

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[RBW] FS: Complete Riv "CustomOne", 56cm, $1,100.

[Joe Bernard]

Yes, a toptube measurement would be great. And what are the hubs?

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[RBW] Clicking noise -- About to lose my mind.

[EasyRider]

Anything can make a bike go click but for me it's usually one thing: the bottom 
bracket isn't snug enough. Grant mentioned this already and I concur. 

Almost every bike I've owned this has popped up, and usually right after I've 
installed the BB. I've even used a bit of teflon tape on really stubborn cases. 
A breaker bar helps to install snugly. Not so you can gorilla it, but so you 
can apply more force in a controlled manner.

The giveaway that's it's the bb is that the creak is intermittent and usually 
prompted by standing, either to mash up a hill or get underway from a stop. It 
goes away under easy pedaling/less torque. A loose crank arm is similar but it 
makes a creaking noise instead of a click.

Pete
Arlington, VA

 

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[RBW] What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[DarinM]

I’m working on a solution for a Tara on my early-2000’s Atlantis w mid-fork 
eyelets positioned for a 32F rack. They are too high for a level Tara by about 
65mm, quite a ways.

I am trying to avoid the Tubus clamp-on things so am working on some drop down 
brackets to bridge the gap. Hopefully will have something done this week

Darin

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[RBW] 650b fenders for 50mm tires?

[William!]

Did the same around 2.25” TBs

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[RBW] 650b fenders for 50mm tires?

[John Buglino]

Not sure if clearences I the Atlantis will be comparable, but I used VO 700x63 
fenders on our 650B x2” shod HHH tandem.  Had to adjust the radius a bit for a 
nice fender line but really was not too much trouble.

Best of luck

John in Jersey City 

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Re: [RBW] Hot waxing chains?

[Deacon Patrick]

My riding has the best/worst of the wet/dry/dirty/muddy. I gave up with the dry 
(wax) flavor and just ad a drop per link of chainsaw oil when the chain tells 
me it needs it (as in I hear the chain. This is my take on Sheldon Brown’s idea 
that most people over lube and in so doing adhere micro dirt to the oil and get 
in into the links where it causes wear. I only lube each link from the top, 
starting at the quicklink. Externally, things get a bit goopy, but not that 
bad. And now I only have fixed drivetrain, there are fewer bits to goop. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Hot waxing chains?

[Jim Bronson]

  'I feel good about it and doing it raises me to a higher level of
eccentricity among my friends."

Ok, I literally laughed out loud.

I thought I was the only person who enjoyed such feelings ;)

Oh and I use wet lube if anyone cares.

Jim

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[RBW] Re: FS: Complete Riv "CustomOne", 56cm, $1,100.

[Wayne Naha]

Awesome bike, Kim!  Good luck with your sale

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[RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[Lester Lammers]

 

> * I’m thinking either a Sam or Atlantis might fit the bill.*  
>

I believe you are on the right track. A Sam would be a bit more nimble and 
you can get the bars up. That, IMHO, is #1 for city riding. I was at my LBS 
and a local engineer crafted a periscope like gizmo that mounted on drop 
bars with a slammed stem that's supposed to be a boon in traffic. Not for 
me.

Your best bet would be to call Riv and discuss what you want with them.

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Re: [RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[Steven Sweedler]

I’ve been using a Gordon low rider for 20 years on 4 different bikes. Some
panniers fit better than others. My oldest Ortliebs don’t have vertical
adjustment on the ‘flipper’nesr the bottom and it interferes with cross
strut on the rack.Steve

On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 11:28 AM William! 
wrote:

> Oh man, did they really discontinue the hoopfull hub area rack as well?
> It's such a swell rack.
>
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Plymouth, New Hampshire

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[RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[Edwin W]

So the mid fork braze-ons on the Joe Appa are too high? That is, the 
distance from dropout to mid fork braze-on is greater than "typical?"

H

I will be interested to hear what people do.

Thanks!

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 9:54:34 AM UTC-5, Bob Lovejoy wrote:
>
> Without true mid-fork lowrider rack mounts, I use a Nitto 27F Campee rack 
> on my Appaloosa.  That said, it would take the place of your Mark's rack. 
>  The low rider portions of the 27F are removable so there is some weight 
> savings possible when not in loaded mode.  Also, the choice of front bags 
> may be a little limited as the height of the lowrider portions of the 27F 
> is a little short for some panniers.  I use old Carradice front panniers 
> and they are working for me when needed.
>
> I could be wrong but you will probably need to use P-clamps or another 
> solution for replicating mid-fork mounts for the Tubus or the Salsa racks. 
>  The Riv HA rack would work though as I believe it attaches to the mounts 
> you are probably using for the Mark's rack now.
>
> Attached are very quick shots of my Joe with the 27F...
>
> It could be that people have come up with good ways to use Tubus racks as 
> I know Tubus has various mount options.  I will be interested to find out 
> what people have done.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Bob
> Galesburg, IL
>

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[RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[d2mini]

Age makes me a slower rider. lol :D

Agree with others that it's probably more handlebar related. Upright 
positions will naturally be safer and slower.
For the frame, choose on the style of riding.


On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 10:30:55 AM UTC-5, John W wrote:
>
> I’ve been thinking a lot about safety, and about what it means to 
> “underbike” in the city, in the name of keeping oneself purposely at 
> lower-than-average speeds and maximally visible to pedestrians and cars. 
>
> Naturally, most of this is in the hands of the cyclist. The best safety is 
> defensive cycling. 
>
> That said, as I consider a Riv purchase within the next year, I’m 
> centering my decision of the frame and build kit around what would make for 
> an enjoyable cycling experience in the city while also reinforcing the 
> thought of, “Hey: slow down, be seen, be slow. Ride your bike, but don’t be 
> a cyclist.” 
>
> Yes, this is an indulgence. But if anyone who overthought this as much as 
> I’m doing, I’d welcome suggestions or thoughts of what worked for you. I’m 
> ruling out single speeds due to cranky knees. But gearing and handlebar 
> choices are in play. So, too are frames. I’m thinking either a Sam or 
> Atlantis might fit the bill. 
>
> I know I could strap a cinderblock to my bike. That sure would slow me 
> down. But this is all about creating a fun bike that’s purpose built for 
> this task. 
>

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[RBW] What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[Joe Bernard]

I think an upright "see over things" riding position and good brakes (all Rivs 
offer both) are paramount for city riding. I don't agree that being slower is 
safer; as an ebiker I've discovered I feel safer in traffic when I can take 
over the lane on a 25mph side street instead of threading between parked and 
passing cars. 

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[RBW] What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[John W]

Good points. I definitely think it’s intentional. But sometimes the tool puts 
you in the... right intention?

When I play guitar, I have an instrument with light gauge strings set close to 
the fretboard on a relatively short scale neck. It inspires me to improvise 
lines and play with large note intervals. Another instrument has higher action 
and thicker gauge strings. I comp chords on it and like to play fingerstyle. 
Horses for courses I think can also apply to city riding. 

As for drivers and city infrastructure changing to fit my needs— well, now that 
is a faulty premise if I ever heard one. 

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[RBW] Re: Hot waxing chains?

[buixote]

I like the idea of the *drive belts* for the timing "drive". Unfortunately, 
they're *ridiculously expensive*. :-(


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[RBW] What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[Deacon Patrick]

John,

You equate slow with safe, but is that what you mean to do? If by “slow,” you 
mean intentional, then the bike matters not at all. Cultivate an attitude of 
intentional contentment when riding and join traffic to be seen as traffic and 
ride any bike you want. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hubbabubba Frame For Sale

[buixote]

2007... or therebouts.

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 6:33:25 AM UTC-7, Mike Gillespie wrote:
>
> FYI, the wheelbase on our small size Hubbabubba measures approx. 1905mm.  
> This one was from the latest batch of frames, just purchased in March.  
> Comparing the Bill’s chainstay photo to ours, I’d agree that his appears 
> somewhat longer.
>
> Mike G.
> Sequim, WA
>
> On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 4:48 AM Michael Hechmer  > wrote:
>
>> Sorry to hear this didn't work out for you.  I have seen lots of 
>> discussions around frame weights on the tandem list, which makes almost no 
>> difference whatsoever, but no discussions about bike length, which is in 
>> fact the most difficult aspect of tandems.  They are a challenge to 
>> transport and to negotiate around tight turns.  RBW doesn't include the 
>> hubahubahuba in its geometry chart and I am curious.  My large Bilenky 
>> touring tandem measures 1880mm between the axles and has 26" wheels.  Can 
>> anyone post this measurement for different size RBWs?
>>
>> I think it's regrettable that they didn't include at least one set of 
>> couplers.  We take our bike apart all the time to fit it into our Golf 
>> Wagon or Prius.  In a rain storm this takes less than 15 minutes!
>>
>> Michael
>>
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[RBW] Re: Hot waxing chains?

[eddietheflay]

I bought the ingredients on ebay and have been waxing for a couple of 
years. I have no idea how it compares in durability. I mostly am a fair 
weather rider so rain not much of a factor. I can say the chain and 
cassette stay really clean and the mess when fixing rear flats or 
derailments is lessened.

Cleaning:

https://moltenspeedwax.com/pages/clean-your-chain

Expert advise:

http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/tech-news-friction-facts-releases-ultrafast-chain-lube-formula/

Testing:

http://biketestreviews.com/the-last-word-on-chain-lubrication/



On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 4:54:19 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I did a search on this and was surprised not to find anything. (Except 
> waxing cloth!)
>
> After 40+ years of cleaning and lubing chains I may be ready to try wax. 
>  I recently got a recipe & process on the tandem list but wondered about 
> the experience of people on this list.  How much extra work is it?  How 
> much longer does it last than "dry lubes?"  Does it make a difference what 
> kind of environment you ride in, eg, Santa Fe vs Seattle?
>
> Michael
>

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[RBW] What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[Justin, Oakland]

1) I believe your premise to be faulty. In my experience safety for cyclists in 
the city comes from good infrastructure, then driver awareness then cyclist 
behavior.

2) Any Riv where your hands are above the saddle will give you the relaxed 
feeling you seek. I ride a Saluki with MAP bars and can ride both relaxed and 
aggressive. The same bike with drop bars set fairly high gave me a similar 
feeling. I feel as if the Sam or the AHH are the perfect gateway bikes. I 
personally cannot get along with the angle that Albatross and Billie bars 
demand my wrists to be at. So I would either wait for the Wavvvie Gravy bar 
or buy the Billie/Albatross build kit and then put a bar with a less parallel 
to the top tube angle allowing you to reuse stem, shifters, etc. 

-J

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[RBW] What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[WETH]

Ps: fatter tires help too. You don’t have to worry about the smaller potholes 
and other road debris as much. 38s or larger.

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[RBW] What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[WETH]

John,
I would say it’s more handlebar dependent than frame, as most Riv frames ride 
well with swept back bars.  I find handlebars that sweep back allow for a more 
relaxed upright riding position, while also allowing for a more aggressive 
riding style when gripped closer to the stem.  Think albatross, bosco, Billie 
bars et al.  I find my Cheviot with swept back bars allows me to ride slowly 
and steadily in congested areas and then to ride more aggressively when 
conditions allow.
Photos here: https://flickr.com/photos/86975051@N08/sets/72157665232090983
I think any frame and bar combo that allows more upright riding will fullfill 
your goal.  You might have to experiment a bit with bar choice, but that’s part 
of the fun!
All the best,
Erl

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[RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[Jim M.]

I forgot there's at least 2 Joe B's on the list. Here's part of the stash:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/joe_bunik/page4



On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 8:49:38 AM UTC-7, Jim M. wrote:
>
> Contact Joe B on this list and see what he has from his massive stash of 
> Bruce Gordon racks.
>
> jim m
> walnut creek, ca
>
> On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 7:28:05 AM UTC-7, Edwin W wrote:
>>
>> I have a Joe Appaloosa with a Mark’s rack, Wald medium and a rear 
>> rack.That is all fine and good, but I was thinking of getting a front 
>> lowrider rack to throw on when I am going camping. Partly to experiment 
>> with weight distribution. 
>> What do you all like? 
>> I see the Tubus Duo  (need 
>> double sided eyelets which I have) and Tara 
>>  (which has the hoop). $120
>> Salsa Down Under Rack 
>> . 
>> Aluminum. $65
>> Riv Hub Area rack. 7 lb (really?) weight limit. Sold out/discontinued.
>>
>> Any others that people love? Thoughts on steel v aluminum?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Edwin
>>
>

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[RBW] What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[Ana Candela]

Cheviut!! And Clem L, too. For city riding, I believe step-throughs and mixtes 
are the bees knees :)

-Ana, riding her purpleriv mixte since 2016 :)

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[RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[Jim M.]

Contact Joe B on this list and see what he has from his massive stash of 
Bruce Gordon racks.

jim m
walnut creek, ca

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 7:28:05 AM UTC-7, Edwin W wrote:
>
> I have a Joe Appaloosa with a Mark’s rack, Wald medium and a rear 
> rack.That is all fine and good, but I was thinking of getting a front 
> lowrider rack to throw on when I am going camping. Partly to experiment 
> with weight distribution. 
> What do you all like? 
> I see the Tubus Duo  (need 
> double sided eyelets which I have) and Tara 
>  (which has the hoop). $120
> Salsa Down Under Rack 
> . 
> Aluminum. $65
> Riv Hub Area rack. 7 lb (really?) weight limit. Sold out/discontinued.
>
> Any others that people love? Thoughts on steel v aluminum?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Edwin
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Complete Riv "CustomOne", 56cm, $1,100.

[Doug Bloch]

Kim,

Thanks for posting this beautiful and unique bike. To help with you sale, I 
suggest you list the seat tube and top tube lengths and more specifics on the 
components. Good luck!

Doug Bloch
Alameda C A USA

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[RBW] Re: Hot waxing chains?

[Ana Candela]

Michael,

It may look like a hassle at first for acquiring the necessary stuff and 
thoroughly cleaning the chain to prep it for waxing. This is only done ONCE. 
Thereafter, it takes only five minutes (+30 min of heating and letting it cool 
down) every three or so weeks in dry weather, every week in wet (I commute 
daily in Seattle).

There are several YouTube videos, and I recommend these two by Oz cycle:
Cleaning: https://youtu.be/D0eOxbnzDQA (long comparison of cleaning methods, 
use kerosene)
Waxing: https://youtu.be/gF9nbwsaSHs

I posted some of my process on Instagram:
https://instagram.com/p/Bez5tv0jvQz/
Impressions:
https://instagram.com/p/BeFWa8HjDNb/
https://instagram.com/p/BeUbWKIjs5x/
https://instagram.com/p/BeCvjJkj5Sa/

Hope this helps. Good luck!

-Ana, riding on, smoothly and gunkless :)

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[RBW] WTB: Mark's Hub Area Rack, hoopless

[Sean Kline]

(Apologies for cross-posting)

Does anyone have a Nitto pannier rack that they’d like to let go of? 

Nitto Rack MF-2 Lowrider Set (aka Nitto Mark's Hub Area Rack, hoopless)

Thanks,
Sean

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[RBW] What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[John W]

I’ve been thinking a lot about safety, and about what it means to “underbike” 
in the city, in the name of keeping oneself purposely at lower-than-average 
speeds and maximally visible to pedestrians and cars. 

Naturally, most of this is in the hands of the cyclist. The best safety is 
defensive cycling. 

That said, as I consider a Riv purchase within the next year, I’m centering my 
decision of the frame and build kit around what would make for an enjoyable 
cycling experience in the city while also reinforcing the thought of, “Hey: 
slow down, be seen, be slow. Ride your bike, but don’t be a cyclist.”

Yes, this is an indulgence. But if anyone who overthought this as much as I’m 
doing, I’d welcome suggestions or thoughts of what worked for you. I’m ruling 
out single speeds due to cranky knees. But gearing and handlebar choices are in 
play. So, too are frames. I’m thinking either a Sam or Atlantis might fit the 
bill. 

I know I could strap a cinderblock to my bike. That sure would slow me down. 
But this is all about creating a fun bike that’s purpose built for this task. 

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[RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[William!]

Oh man, did they really discontinue the hoopfull hub area rack as well? It's 
such a swell rack.

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[RBW] Re: Hot waxing chains?

[Michael Hechmer]

I live in VT, so wet & green.  I live 3 miles down a dirt road so all of my 
rides include at least 6 miles of dirt and many rides considerable more.

I am motivated to try wax by the timing chain on my tandem.  It is long and 
it needs to be removed when we break the bike apart and stick it in the 
back of the car.  Then it has to be reassembled.  The whole process takes 
about 20 minutes and about half of that involves the timing chain and 
cleaning my hands.

FYI, here's the recipe posted to the tandem list:

"Gulf paraffin canning wax, petroleum jelly, mineral oil (baby oil can 
work) and beeswax.  It’s about 6 parts paraffin (one box), 1 part petroleum 
jelly, 1 part mineral oil and 1 part beeswax. Then i get s small container 
of powdered graphite from Home Depot that they sell in the ‘door lock’ 
section.  Very small tube. "

I am also looking into converting the timing chain to a gates carbon fiber, 
which involves some real money - new spiders, rings & a long belt.

Michael

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 10:27:46 AM UTC-4, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> Michael, do you live in wet or dry environs? I hear wax is best for dry 
> but not wet. I live in humid/rainy Maryland and find Chain-L to last a 
> couple months before a reoiling necessary.
>
> I get 100-200 miles only out of wax. 
>

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[RBW] 650b fenders for 50mm tires?

[Matt Beecher]

I'm a fan of Honjo and VO fenders, but what are my other options for good 
quality metal fenders for 50mm 650b tires?

VO does not seem to go that large and I see that Honjo has 2 options, in smooth 
or hammered.  

Thanks,
Matt, building up a new Atlantis in Oswego, IL

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[RBW] What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[Edwin W]

I have a Joe Appaloosa with a Mark’s rack, Wald medium and a rear rack.That 
is all fine and good, but I was thinking of getting a front lowrider rack 
to throw on when I am going camping. Partly to experiment with weight 
distribution. 
What do you all like? 
I see the Tubus Duo  (need double 
sided eyelets which I have) and Tara 
 (which has the hoop). $120
Salsa Down Under Rack 
. 
Aluminum. $65
Riv Hub Area rack. 7 lb (really?) weight limit. Sold out/discontinued.

Any others that people love? Thoughts on steel v aluminum?

Thanks!

Edwin

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[RBW] Hot waxing chains?

[Lum Gim Fong]

Michael, do you live in wet or dry environs? I hear wax is best for dry but not 
wet. I live in humid/rainy Maryland and find Chain-L to last a couple months 
before a reoiling necessary.

I get 100-200 miles only out of wax. 

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[RBW] Hot waxing chains?

[Marc Irwin]

  I do it and i don't think is s hassle. The only real advantage I see is that, 
 by soaking the chain,  you are reasonably assured each bearing gets lube on 
it.  Of course parrifin is cleaner than oil and that's the only advantage to 
waxing. 
  I clean the chain ounce every 4-6 weeks with a Park tool widget, soak the 
chain in a crockpot of plain parrifin for a while and use a parrifin based lube 
in between cleaning.  
   I don't track mileage or fret over it but it'd seems to work ok.  I feel 
good about it and doing it raises me to a higher level of  eccentricity among 
my friends.  I tell them the photos look better when every rivet is waxed. 

Marc

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[RBW] Re: ird power ratchet shifters keep loosening

[Garth]

Actually, the ratcheting itself doesn't really do anything  it's still 
held in place by pressure from the washer. Loosen a racheting shifter and 
what happens ?  It moves just like any other friction shifter, because it 
is. The clicks sound neat and all and give the impression that they matter, 
but it's still just a friction lever, and like any lever, some are better 
than others at hold the position. 
 

Now maybe someone is gonna tell me I'm wrong  oh the humanity !  
Ahahahahaha ;-)Whatever ... either the shifter holds or it doesn't it 
... "how" doesn't matter ... that a shifter is a shifter and by nature 
shifts(what else? it's a shift-er)  DOES . 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hot waxing chains?

[Patrick Moore]

Garth's method doesn't work well in very sandy or dusty environments. Oils
grit the chain up immediately; most "dry" lubes build up into waxy gunk,
and in any case, applying liquid lube over a gritty chain just leaches grit
into the innards.

With the Molten wax I described just now, you clean your chain for the
initial application, and just melt and dunk thereafter.

BTW, use an old crockpot, $5 at Goodwill. But a small one, and one that has
a removeable ceramic pot, which makes cleaning easier, once you have to
replace the wax.

On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 6:30 AM, Garth  wrote:

>
> Search google for*hot wax chains cycling   . *
>
> Scroll  Pick and choose a link .
>
> Asking if it's worth it or not , you will get yes it's worth it and no
> it's not.  No surprise .
>
> A lube is a lube is a lube . those that claim "mine is best" are
> simply defending their choice only.  The "best" is the one you got.  I've
> done hot wax, Squirt Lube water based wax lube, White Lightning Clean Ride
> petro based wax lube, and the usual plethora of oil based stuff.   What I
> found rather silly is that apply wax lubes ... you must clean the chain
> first thereby contradicting "not cleaning the chain" !   Seems like a
> perfectly good waste of factory lube already there. Clean Ride and Squirt
> are the only wax ones that you never ever clean the chain for the life of
> the chain past the initial cleaning, you reapply as needed. Hot wax needs
> reapplied, pita if you ask me, time and effort .
>
> Anyways, I've gone back to just slapping on the new chain, wiping it every
> so often, blow debris off with a compressor and reapply on bike with
> whatever oil. The most important part of a chain is INSIDE , and once you
> use solvent and remove it, it's not so easy to get it back it at all.
> Factory lubes are done with heat and pressure, to penetrate the links.  No
> one can do that at home.
>
> For myself ... "time" spent cleaning and lubing a chain frequently  is
> not "free" .  Only FREE is free, no exception, no debate, no alternative.
>
> This all said, I don't ride in the rain if I can avoid it. This is just
> one perspective  viva la Infinity  :-)
>
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Re: [RBW] Hot waxing chains?

[Patrick Moore]

I didn't have good results with plain paraffin after several years of using
it, though others have said they get very good results. But last year I
started to use "Molten Speed Wax" which seems to work much better despite
its stupid name.

"Better" means that the chain is quiet for at least 200 miles while riding
in deepish, silty, dusty sand, longer on pavement, of course; and I'm
hoping to get longer chain life than the ~2K miles I got with plain
paraffin. And while the chain stays quiet, the surface of the chain stays
clean, and there is no buildup of gunk on the cassette and derailleur
pulleys.

$20/lb from Amazon.

On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 5:54 AM, Michael Hechmer  wrote:

> I did a search on this and was surprised not to find anything. (Except
> waxing cloth!)
>
> After 40+ years of cleaning and lubing chains I may be ready to try wax.
> I recently got a recipe & process on the tandem list but wondered about the
> experience of people on this list.  How much extra work is it?  How much
> longer does it last than "dry lubes?"  Does it make a difference what kind
> of environment you ride in, eg, Santa Fe vs Seattle?
>
> Michael
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Hubbabubba Frame For Sale

[MikeGillespie]

FYI, the wheelbase on our small size Hubbabubba measures approx. 1905mm.
This one was from the latest batch of frames, just purchased in March.
Comparing the Bill’s chainstay photo to ours, I’d agree that his appears
somewhat longer.

Mike G.
Sequim, WA

On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 4:48 AM Michael Hechmer  wrote:

> Sorry to hear this didn't work out for you.  I have seen lots of
> discussions around frame weights on the tandem list, which makes almost no
> difference whatsoever, but no discussions about bike length, which is in
> fact the most difficult aspect of tandems.  They are a challenge to
> transport and to negotiate around tight turns.  RBW doesn't include the
> hubahubahuba in its geometry chart and I am curious.  My large Bilenky
> touring tandem measures 1880mm between the axles and has 26" wheels.  Can
> anyone post this measurement for different size RBWs?
>
> I think it's regrettable that they didn't include at least one set of
> couplers.  We take our bike apart all the time to fit it into our Golf
> Wagon or Prius.  In a rain storm this takes less than 15 minutes!
>
> Michael
>
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[RBW] Re: Hot waxing chains?

[Garth]

Search google for*hot wax chains cycling   . *

Scroll  Pick and choose a link . 

Asking if it's worth it or not , you will get yes it's worth it and no it's 
not.  No surprise .  

A lube is a lube is a lube . those that claim "mine is best" are simply 
defending their choice only.  The "best" is the one you got.  I've done hot 
wax, Squirt Lube water based wax lube, White Lightning Clean Ride petro 
based wax lube, and the usual plethora of oil based stuff.   What I found 
rather silly is that apply wax lubes ... you must clean the chain first 
thereby contradicting "not cleaning the chain" !   Seems like a perfectly 
good waste of factory lube already there. Clean Ride and Squirt are the 
only wax ones that you never ever clean the chain for the life of the chain 
past the initial cleaning, you reapply as needed. Hot wax needs reapplied, 
pita if you ask me, time and effort .  

Anyways, I've gone back to just slapping on the new chain, wiping it every 
so often, blow debris off with a compressor and reapply on bike with 
whatever oil. The most important part of a chain is INSIDE , and once you 
use solvent and remove it, it's not so easy to get it back it at all. 
Factory lubes are done with heat and pressure, to penetrate the links.  No 
one can do that at home.  

For myself ... "time" spent cleaning and lubing a chain frequently  is 
not "free" .  Only FREE is free, no exception, no debate, no alternative. 

This all said, I don't ride in the rain if I can avoid it. This is just one 
perspective  viva la Infinity  :-)  

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[RBW] Hot waxing chains?

[Michael Hechmer]

I did a search on this and was surprised not to find anything. (Except 
waxing cloth!)

After 40+ years of cleaning and lubing chains I may be ready to try wax.  I 
recently got a recipe & process on the tandem list but wondered about the 
experience of people on this list.  How much extra work is it?  How much 
longer does it last than "dry lubes?"  Does it make a difference what kind 
of environment you ride in, eg, Santa Fe vs Seattle?

Michael

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[RBW] Re: Hubbabubba Frame For Sale

[Michael Hechmer]

Sorry to hear this didn't work out for you.  I have seen lots of 
discussions around frame weights on the tandem list, which makes almost no 
difference whatsoever, but no discussions about bike length, which is in 
fact the most difficult aspect of tandems.  They are a challenge to 
transport and to negotiate around tight turns.  RBW doesn't include the 
hubahubahuba in its geometry chart and I am curious.  My large Bilenky 
touring tandem measures 1880mm between the axles and has 26" wheels.  Can 
anyone post this measurement for different size RBWs?

I think it's regrettable that they didn't include at least one set of 
couplers.  We take our bike apart all the time to fit it into our Golf 
Wagon or Prius.  In a rain storm this takes less than 15 minutes!

Michael

On Friday, June 1, 2018 at 12:17:12 PM UTC-4, buixote wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> Wanted to own a Riv, but this thing is just too long (20" longer than our 
> Fisher Gemini). This one
> is a *prototype*, so it's even longer than the production model (check out 
> the chainstay!).
>
> I'm selling the Frame (gonna use the rest on my new Clem L). You keep the 
> bottom brackets
> headset, seatposts...
>
> Prefer not to ship, and happy to let you take it for a spin.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Bill Michel
> REdwood City, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Complete Betty Foy - $1900

[Garth]

   When in doubt , always look at the ETRTO , (European Tire and Rim 
Technical Organization).  Apparently, according to 
this http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html   ,   scroll down to the 
Fractional sizes and you'll see that 584 has referred to French , 
26-1/2(650B). As ISO  standard 584 is known as* 650B, 26.5 AND "27 five" *.  
  As the Decimal Standard, The "27 five" is referred to as the "*marketing 
term for wide knobby 584mm tires*".  

The 27 five(27.5) is really where the confusion starts . The bandwagon 
jumping tire marketeers apparently looking for a way to market their tires 
as " shiny and NEW standard" , that was not a new at all but ever simply 
the already present 650B 26-1/2 French standard.  So now you find some 
mfrs. referring to 584 as 26-1/2 for road intended tires and 27.5 or even 
27 for mtb off-road tires.   Confusing yes, but not really if you *stick 
with the ETRTO designation on the tire. *

Seems to me the Fractional Standard is the most confusing of all , it's all 
over the place. 


584mm is much closer to 559mm than 622mm anyways, hence the 26-1/2" French 
designation. 


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[RBW] Re: FS: Complete Riv "CustomOne", 56cm, $1,100.

[Steve Butcher]

Hi Kim,

Such a beautiful bike and seems to be very reasonably priced!  IMHO, I 
think it is quite worthy of a FS posting.  I have made very limited 
contributions, opinion wise, to this forum; but have sold (and bought) a 
number of items that I feel I've priced very reasonably.   If I had not 
already picked up a Simpleone frame off the forum, I might be starting a 
conversation with you.  I hope your bike finds it's way to a nice, new 
home.  

Steve Butcher
Stockton, Missouri 

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 1:06:28 AM UTC-5, Kim wrote:
>
> Hi, I'm still trying to sell my Custom Rivendell fixed gear, designed by 
> Grant, built by Joe Starck and painted in a Coleman Young green by Joe 
> Bell.  This fixie is in great shape and still looks very good since a year 
> 2000 build.  The rear wheel may be flipped for a higher gear.  Parts 
> include Nitto bars, stem and seat post, Gusset saddle and Mavic wheels. 
>  $1,100 cash for a north San Diego Co. (CA) pick-up.  Thanks, Kim. 
> (949)426-8242.
>
> I've been reading the debate on who is worthy to post FS items.  I guess 
> that I am not worthy as I don't post questions or comments; however, in my 
> defense, I don't really have anything to contribute and I'm not that 
> interesting, so I considerately do not want to waste any RBW Owners time. 
>  I do enjoy reading the posts everyday. -KT.
>

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