[RBW] Re: Bar end shifters on Boscos?

[Ash]

Hi David,

Thanks for those pictures!  The first pic gave me a very good idea how long 
shifter lever is.

60-70% of the time I ride with hands at the top bends. That slightly leaned 
forward position is quite comfortable.  Occasionally I come back to the 
grip area for relaxing my back and shoulders (ie, a little more - even at 
the bends it is a lot more relaxed than drop bars or MTB handlebars). 
 Moving the levers forward might be perfect!  I'll try it out.  After all, 
when you need to quickly brake, it is easier to slight hands forward than 
lift and shift to grip area.

Cool idea with those grips as well.  It had not occurred to me that I could 
slide one each to various hand positions!


On Tuesday, 28 August 2018 16:21:30 UTC-7, David Wadstrup wrote:
>
> Ash,
>
> I run bar end shifters on my Clem.  It's a great set up.  I've messed 
> around with brake lever placement over the past couple of years, and 
> discovered I like having them pretty far forward on the bars.  It gives me 
> lots of room behind the levers, while still allowing me to use the downward 
> curve ahead of the levers when I want to be more aero.  I even put grips on 
> the flats near the stem and find myself using them way more than I had 
> anticipated.  Like every time I climb a hill or want to go fast.
>
> You'll see my grips are general, bike store grips.  I forget the brand. 
>  They came capped at their ends like these grips usually do, so I cut them 
> to give me access to the bar ends.  I even cut a portion of a second pair 
> to give me the extra behind-lever length I wanted.  A little surgery was 
> required on the third pair as well so I could get them down to the flats.
>
> It's true that the bar end shifters do add length to already long bars. 
>  And I do have to be extra careful doing through narrow doorways and such. 
>  Really, though, it's no big deal.  
>
>
>
>
> On Friday, August 24, 2018 at 3:59:58 PM UTC-4, Ash wrote:
>>
>> Having tried many alt bars, Bosco is currently my favorite.  For casual 
>> around the town riding as well as long rides on even surfaces, I think they 
>> will remain my top choice forever.  60% of the time I use the hand position 
>> in front of brake levers.  Both trigger shifters as well as thumb shifters 
>> (in certain gears) get in the way when I put my hands there.  Thinking of 
>> trying bar end shifters.  Does anyone use Bosco/bar end shifter combo?  How 
>> do you like it?
>>
>> On that note, if anyone has a pair of beat up old bar end shifter going 
>> cheap, I'd be interested in buying.   Want to use those for a while before 
>> investing in new ones. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bar end shifters on Boscos?

[Ash]

Joe,  what's up with you and chopping handlebars!  It seems like once one 
starts chopping handlebars it can get addictive :)


On Friday, 24 August 2018 21:23:54 UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Actually it's quite simple to tell another rider what bar-ends are like on 
> a Bosco. Here's how it works: You have Boscos, you put bar-ends on them, 
> then you say what it's like. 
>
> I tried it on a Clem a couple years ago and thought it was pretty great 
> while riding, but the hopping off and getting trapped by that long bar with 
> shifter was annoying. If I did it again I would chop an inch off the bars 
> first. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Bar end shifters on Boscos?

[Ash]

Mark,  

Good point.  Giving up my Ergon grips does not sound very appealing at all! 
 Seems like another reason to try stem shifters.

Thanks for another picture of the 8-pack rack, btw!!



On Friday, 24 August 2018 19:30:03 UTC-7, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
> Me too. I like bar end shifters, but on sweep-back bars they can be 
> problematic in some cases. Mainly though I did not want to give up the old 
> school grips.
>
> [image: clementine shifters.JPG]
>
> Yer kilometers might not come out the same as mine!
>
> On Friday, August 24, 2018 at 10:09:24 PM UTC-4, Andy H wrote:
>>
>> I've mounted my shifters on the stem and really like having all the clear 
>> space on my bars.
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Bar end shifters on Boscos?

[Ash]

Thanks for your inputs everyone!

Garth's response made me think I should tell this story with some pictures. 
 Figured I should provide some context for each picture with some text.  It 
took couple of days to reset my Flickr account that I had not used in a 
long while.

Here's the album for folks interested in details.  
https://flic.kr/s/aHskDNehhn
Be sure to check descriptions of this pics.

After some more experimenting, I moved the shifters all the way down close 
to the flat area.  This setup seems to be better keeping them near brake 
levers.  With this arrangement I rode 45 miles last Saturday (there's 
picture of that too).  

On the Atlantis I have trigger shifters on Boscos.  The pictures show a 
small annoying problem with those.  I do not like trigger shifters anyway, 
so they are not staying.

These are all really tiny problems in reality.  Tweaking my bikes is a 
hobby for me, so I go on!

I did some cardboard experiment and found out that I'd need 13cm Tallux 
instead of the 10cm I'm using now.  Or else the shifters will hit knees 
frequently.  Likely I'll replace trigger shifters on the Atlantis with bar 
ends + 13cm Tallux.

While in theory I have not found stem mounted shifters practical, this 
thread has convinced me that I have to give them a try!


On Wednesday, 29 August 2018 10:47:39 UTC-7, Marc Irwin wrote:
>
> I use bar ends on my Hunq and stem shifters on my Sam both of which have 
> Bosco's.  I like both.  You need a long cable for the barends.
>
> Marc
>

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Re: [RBW] Hilltrek Ventile Cotton Analogy Sale

[john Bokman]

Thanks Patrick!
Interestingly, the 2x Ventile is the same weight as Cotton Analogy. I’d rather 
buy all cotton “all things equal” unless there is a clear reason to do 
otherwise. I like the smock option best, BTW. Less zipper, perhaps slightly 
more cumbersome to put on, but the kangaroo pockets are a real bonus for me. 
(I’d upset to the side zips, as well.)
> On Aug 29, 2018, at 9:12 PM, 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>  wrote:
> 
> John, I’d recommend double ventile or cotton analogy for what you just 
> described. Single layer soaks through where horizontal, such as sleeves on a 
> bike, or sitting and enjoying a pipe. For blaze orange (or red, which I 
> prefer, because it is equally visible, but not flourescent and thus 
> bikey/racy and so people seem to be friendlier), I’d email them.
> 
> With abandon,
> Patrick 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Hilltrek Ventile Cotton Analogy Sale

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

John, I’d recommend double ventile or cotton analogy for what you just 
described. Single layer soaks through where horizontal, such as sleeves on a 
bike, or sitting and enjoying a pipe. For blaze orange (or red, which I prefer, 
because it is equally visible, but not flourescent and thus bikey/racy and so 
people seem to be friendlier), I’d email them.

With abandon,
Patrick 

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Re: [RBW] WTB 63cm Roadeo/Riv Road Frameset

[Lum Gim Fong]

If it is anything like mine, you will love it.
Faster than any rivbike I ever rode.
I don’t even need to downshift on some hills anymore. Just cruises over them. 
Some hills. Of course those 7+%-ers are still tough! But this bikes requires 
less effort to pedal along than all my other rivs.
Less effort=less trashed after long rides=feel good the next day=more riding 
and less recovery days off a bike.

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[RBW] Re: Hilltrek Ventile Cotton Analogy Sale

[John Bokman]

Patrick, You've spoken to this before, so excuse my poor memory. I'm having 
difficulty choosing between the 2x ventile and hybrid fabrics. I know in 
practice, where i ride (Western Oregon), my arms will get wet if I'm not in 
a plastic fabric. Im therefore thinking 2x Ventile might be a better choice 
for me than Hybrid. Yes, it's good to have additional protection at 
shoulders, but if the arms are soaked, that's not real pleasant. Problem 
is, in 2x Ventile, there is no "Blaze" orange to be seen. only the colors 
i'd want when trail walking. 
I was one of the early customers of their single ventile gilet, and like it 
very much. Perhaps not "waterproof" but comfortable, good zippers, good 
pockets, and in (at least partial, if not all) blaze orange.



On Wednesday, August 29, 2018 at 9:44:59 AM UTC-7, Mark Schneider wrote:
>
> Patrick,
>
> I bought the Greenspot a few years ago after I read your recommendation. 
> (The analogy being too warm for my climate zone)The dual layer is very warm 
> but the fabric keeps me dry and comfortable as long as it's cool enough 
> out. The fabric breaths much better than GoreTex or the chex aper 
> laminates. I love all the pockets on the Greenspot it great for all cool 
> weather outdoor activity.
> Mark
>
> On Tuesday, August 28, 2018 at 2:56:34 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> Best rain jacket I’ve ever had, going on over five years now. No 
>> affiliation, just a very satisfied customer. 20% off cotton analogy through 
>> August. https://hilltrek.co.uk/shop-by-material/cotton-analogy/
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> www.CredoFamily.org
>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>>
>

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[RBW] Upright bars and romulus

[Fullylugged]

I flipped mustache bars upside down and used bar end brakes to get a nice 
relaxed vibe.   Go for it.

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Re: [RBW] Upright bars and romulus

[Joe Bernard]

In my case, 56. 

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Re: [RBW] Upright bars and romulus

[Timothy Hurley]

30

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Re: [RBW] Upright bars and romulus

[Steve Palincsar]

I'm curious: how old is "too old for drop bars"?


On 08/28/2018 08:54 PM, Dennis Caron wrote:

Hello,
I’m curious if anyone has installed upright bars on a Romulus. I have one that 
I’ve ridden for 15 years but feel I’m getting too old for drop bars. I am also 
looking at a Clem bike but don’t want to give up quite yet if others have liked 
switching out their bars on the Romulus.
Thanks...



--
Steve Palincsar
Alexandria, Virginia
USA

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[RBW] Re: FS: Paul neo retro silver anodized brake set, two wheels worth, with mis-matched hangers and Hunter Nugz and rack bolts

[Belopsky]

all of this is sold

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[RBW] Re: How do Rivendells fare fenderless on dry salty winter roads?

[PaulS]

Is it an option of mount skinny tires for winter and use fenders? The big gap 
would drastically reduce the chance of debris getting caught up in the fenders 
and tires. 
Unless you’re already running skinny tires. 

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[RBW] Upright bars and romulus

[Dennis Caron]

Hello,
I’m curious if anyone has installed upright bars on a Romulus. I have one that 
I’ve ridden for 15 years but feel I’m getting too old for drop bars. I am also 
looking at a Clem bike but don’t want to give up quite yet if others have liked 
switching out their bars on the Romulus. 
Thanks...

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[RBW] Re: FS: Paul neo retro silver anodized brake set, two wheels worth, with mis-matched hangers and Hunter Nugz and rack bolts

[James Copp]

Can we see a picture?

On Thursday, August 23, 2018 at 9:16:03 AM UTC-4, Belopsky wrote:
>
> 50-75 miles on these.
>
> $200
>
> Rack adapters are $36 retail
> Hunter Nugz are $30
> brakes are a lot
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB 58 Hunq

[Cody Bartz]

59cm complete on the Riv Garage Sale page:
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/web-special-framesets-and-bicycles/products/bicycle-hunqapillar-59cm-650b-web-special-complete

- Cody

On Tuesday, August 28, 2018 at 12:29:09 AM UTC-4, Kurt Manley wrote:
>
> I have a friend in the bay area who's looking for a 58cm Hunqapillar. 
> Frameset or complete are both of interest to him. 
> If you have something you'd like to sell please pm me. 
>
> Thanks!
>
> Kurt
>

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Re: [RBW] WTB 63cm Roadeo/Riv Road Frameset

[David Wadstrup]

I just wanted to update this post with the good news that I've found myself a 
Roadeo.  A list member offered his up as it wasn't seeing a lot of use.  It's 
in immaculate condition, is in the color or my dreams(Ram orange,) and was a 
very fair price.  I'm extremely grateful and am looking forward to building it 
up slowly over the winter.  I'll likely start a new thread with questions and 
solicitations of advice/component recommendations.  Thank you everyone!

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[RBW] Re: Shimming middle chainring of sugino XD2 for 10 speed chain?

[Lum Gim Fong]

Maybe worth a try for $10 only.

But no matter how you shim, be sure the rings sit squarely on their 
shoulders on the crank arm. Not hanging off halfway. There was a story in 
one of the Riv Readers about someone who over-shimmed, leaving the rings 
half hanging off the shoulders or something , which led to failure. 

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[RBW] Re: nail polish suggestions

[Bob B]

With Waterford frames, you can call them and order actual touchup paint to 
match. However those models are not Waterford, so if I were you I'd just 
call Riv and inquire about the actual touchup paint. They aren't going to 
force red nail polish down your throat if you tell them you want an actual 
match.

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[RBW] Re: Building out New Old Stock 2009 Sam Hillborne

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

So, I looked around on the internet and found enough different opinions 
about running wrong size wheels on steel bikes that I decided to try to 
parse out those which clearly come from experience and knowledge.  In the 
spirit of sharing, here is my summary of internet wisdom on the topic: 

   - The right size is best, but a small difference, such as a 130mm hub in 
   135mm dropouts is usually fine. 
   - There are plenty of people who do this without issues for years, and 
   even bike shops that do this without concerns.  No one with experience 
   (that I could find) reported damage to a steel bike by doing this. 
   - One possible issue is that one chain stay might flex more than the 
   other.  If your wheel is centered, you’re ok. 
   - One possible issue is that you might need to adjust your rear 
   derailleur.   Try it and find out.  Possibly a bigger issue to those who 
   are swapping different spaced wheels on a regular basis than to those who 
   will just use the one size. 
   - One possible issue is that your dropouts might not be parallel 
   “enough”.  If you can tighten your quick-release enough to hold the wheel 
   solidly, then you’re ok. 
   - Your wheel will be a little harder to put in since you have to squeeze 
   or spread the stays each time. 

 I also called Rivendell and asked if they thought it was a problem to run 
130s in the 135 dropouts for a couple years, as long as the wheel was 
centered and I could close the quick-release solidly.  The response: it’ll 
be fine.

 

Alternatives:

   - Add/remove spacers under locknuts to both sides, and possibly replace 
   axle to match dropout spacing.  Typically $25-$30 for parts and labor at a 
   bike shop, so definitely worth considering. 
   - Similar to above, but just change spacers on one side and re-dish the 
   wheel.  Not for the inexperienced, or for those trying to save money. 

-Eric

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[RBW] Re: Building out New Old Stock 2009 Sam Hillborne

['Eric Myers' via RBW Owners Bunch]

So, I looked around on the internet and found enough different opinions 
about running wrong size wheels on steel bikes that I decided to try to 
parse out those which clearly come from experience and knowledge.  In the 
spirit of sharing, here is my summary of internet wisdom on the topic:

 

   - The right size is best, but a small difference, such as a 130mm hub in 
   135mm dropouts is usually fine. 
   - There are plenty of people who do this without issues for years, and 
   even bike shops that do this without concerns.  No one with experience 
   (that I could find) reported damage to a steel bike by doing this. 
   - One possible issue is that one chain stay might flex more than the 
   other.  If your wheel is centered, you’re ok. 
   - One possible issue is that you might need to adjust your rear 
   derailleur.   Try it and find out.  Possibly a bigger issue to those who 
   are swapping different spaced wheels on a regular basis than to those who 
   will just use the one size. 
   - One possible issue is that your dropouts might not be parallel 
   “enough”.  If you can tighten your quick-release enough to hold the wheel 
   solidly, then you’re ok. 
   - Your wheel will be a little harder to put in since you have to squeeze 
   or spread the stays each time. 

 

I also called Rivendell and asked if they thought it was a problem to run 
130s in the 135 dropouts for a couple years, as long as the wheel was 
centered and I could close the quick-release solidly.  The response: it’ll 
be fine. 

 

Alternatives:

   - Add/remove spacers under locknuts to both sides, and possibly replace 
   axle to match dropout spacing.  Typically $25-$30 for parts and labor at a 
   bike shop, so definitely worth considering. 
   - Similar to above, but just change spacers on one side and re-dish the 
   wheel.  Not for the inexperienced, or for those trying to save money. 

 

-Eric

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[RBW] Re: nail polish suggestions

[MartyG]

On Friday, August 24, 2018 at 11:49:39 AM UTC-4, lconley wrote:
>
> Cyclofiend has a page on touching up Rivendells - "RBW Touch-up Paint 
> Recommendations", but I believe that it mostly has color recommendations 
> for the earlier bikes. I don't know how to create a link.
>
> Laing
> Cocoa FL
>
> 
>
>> http://www.cyclofiend.com/rbw/color.html
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: How do Rivendells fare fenderless on dry salty winter roads?

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I’m unsure how parallel it is, but many of the dirt roads here use magnesium 
chloride (or similar) for road adhesion, lower dust, etc. Of course this salt 
in the dirt road becomes salt mud when wet. Not a big deal when below a certain 
temperature, but above, it is sloppy stuff and it does adhere well. I only ride 
a minimal front fender to keep it out of my eyes, and when Mark replaced my 
Hunqapillar’s dropouts he said there was some superficial rust but nothing he 
wouldn’t expect after six years, and nothing even close to structural. How 
relevant is that? No idea, as I don’t know how corrosive magnesium chloride is 
compared with salts applied for snow melt (which doesn’t happen around here).

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: How do Rivendells fare fenderless on dry salty winter roads?

[Wally Estrella]

I had pedaled through a few heavy Maine winters on a Surly Karate Monkey 
and Ogre -both fenders.  Maine sees quite the range of snow from wet apple 
sauce to the powder to ice.  I gave the bike a good wash before winter and 
light frame waxing.  After each storm just wiped it down w/ no issues.  
After one season though I pulled the cranks and bearings off to see what 
the BB looked like -there was a very light coating of salt.  The frames 
were framesaved, so no harm there.  The bottom bracket has outboard 
bearings on those.  The drive train took more of a beating from all the 
grime. 



On Wednesday, August 15, 2018 at 12:07:24 AM UTC-4, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> Yes, fenderless.
>
> I grow increasingly concerned, over  the years, of front end wrecks due to 
> the possibility of fender or rack failures as I have read about them 
> happenning, and now the latest blagh post. I meticulously mount fenders so 
> as to be as in-built stress free as poss. But I still wonder if one day the 
> clock will run out.
>
> So I have stopped riding with fenders and racks and find that a nice 
> banana sax and bartube or Brooks Milford are good enough for my load 
> carrying and no need for racks/fenders.
>
> But I cringe at the thought of riding fenderless on salty winter roads on 
> my Rambouillet. I only ride dry roads in winter, and around here that means 
> white with dry salt.
>
> If you have run your Rivs fenderless on dry salty roads, how have they 
> fared?
>
> Thanks for relating your experiences!
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Shimming middle chainring of sugino XD2 for 10 speed chain?

[Patrick Moore]

IME, you might well be lucky and have no problem running 10 speeds with old
cranks. I'm happily using a 10 speed chain with a 8-speed era Logic crank;
no problems.

Friction front shifting, btw.

On Wed, Aug 29, 2018 at 7:58 AM, EasyRider  wrote:

> Riv has said that these cranks aren't 10 speed compatible and others have
> said it's because the xd2 spider spaces the rings a bit too wide for 10
> speed setups (either the narrower chain falls into the gap between rings or
> an indexed FD doesn't push the chain sideways enough to make the shift, or
> both.)
>
> If I wanted to run the xd2 as a compact double (42/28), do you think using
> thin washers to shim the middle ring in closer to the granny ring would
> prevent those 10 speed compatibility issues? I'd leave the outer ring off
> or get a chain guard.
>
> I ask because I have a bike with 10 speed indexing in need of a new crank
> and I just found a pair of xd2s in the coop parts bin for $10.
>
> Pete
> Arlington, VA
>
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[RBW] Re: How do Rivendells fare fenderless on dry salty winter roads?

[Ana Candela]

Here in the PNW we only get a week or two of salty roads, but plenty of rainy 
weeks, so take my advice with a grain of salt ;-D

I always keep fenders on. But even so, I still squirt a bottle of water on 
frame, wheels, and drivetrain after a ride. My bike has seen two very wet 
winters so far, and has fared perfectly.

Definitely keep riding your Rambouillet in the winter. You want the best bike 
you can ride in harsh conditions :-)

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Re: [RBW] Donated bike; intrepid recipient; request for equipment donations

[Patrick Moore]

Ana: Thanks for your offer. We've collected all that he needs for the
moment except perhaps for a pair of clip-on fenders for a mountain bike; in
the style of those linked to below.

https://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Mountain-Bike-Fender-Black/dp/B000P1SA38

... though, come to think of it, our sparse "monsoon" season will end in a
couple of weeks ...

On Wed, Aug 29, 2018 at 10:08 AM, Ana Candela  wrote:

> I think I have a headlight and a smaller pump. Would he need a lock? I
> also have a rear rack and compatible bag if his bike has eyelets for it. I
> could dig in my parts bin and send photos if needed.
>
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[RBW] Bar end shifters on Boscos?

[Marc Irwin]

I use bar ends on my Hunq and stem shifters on my Sam both of which have 
Bosco's.  I like both.  You need a long cable for the barends.

Marc

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[RBW] WTB: Small Riv or Riv-ish Frame

[Conway Bennett]

I have a 2012 53 cm salsa Caseroll I need to move along.

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[RBW] WTB: Small Riv or Riv-ish Frame

[Ana Candela]

Mike:
I don’t have a bike for sale, just a recommendation on size. I’m also 5'4", 
with pbh at 75cm. A 50cm Cheviot would fit her great, and the current sage 
color would be hard to pass up! The Clem is also great for city riding; that 
bike floats :)

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[RBW] nail polish suggestions

[Ana Candela]

I agree. That red nail polish looks like blood, haha :-P

I’m all about nail polish, and I probably have a similar color in my stash if 
you’re interested. However, to avoid the close-but-not-close-enough color 
matching, how about retouching with the blue of the decals (or another color 
from the decals or bags, for example). Or go wild like we did a couple months 
ago at Rivelo, when Aaron retouched his Atlantis with holo nail polish 
https://instagram.com/p/BkRy4ozBL40/  I’ll be doing the same soon...

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[RBW] Re: Weight weenie report. Dia Compe 980 brakes

[Garth]

Max, Apparently my reply may have been misread as I pointed to the *CR710* *for 
narrow spacing(they are designed for cross bikes with 33mm+/- tires)*, not 
the 720.   The 710 costs about $20-25 each. 


https://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=46


On Wednesday, August 29, 2018 at 9:07:32 AM UTC-4, Max S wrote:
>
> Garth, 
>
> I agree that the 720 is a good brake and a good value. In fact I have it 
> installed on one bike, but had to move all of the spacers / washers to the 
> outboard side of the pad holder bolt, because the canti posts are closer to 
> each other than currently standard. It actually works fine, but just — at 
> the limit of the adjustment range for the brake. Just wondering if there is 
> a simple and inexpensive option that works better (besides the old XT 
> cantis). 
>
> While we are on this tangent of narrow post spacing, are there V or mini-V 
> style brakes that work better than others in this instance?.. 
>
> - Max “narrow (post) minded for the moment” in A2

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[RBW] Summer’s Wild Rumpus

[Ana Candela]

Nice photos! Hope you’re healing well :)

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[RBW] Re: Hilltrek Ventile Cotton Analogy Sale

[Mark Schneider]

Patrick,

I bought the Greenspot a few years ago after I read your recommendation. 
(The analogy being too warm for my climate zone)The dual layer is very warm 
but the fabric keeps me dry and comfortable as long as it's cool enough 
out. The fabric breaths much better than GoreTex or the cheaper laminates. 
I love all the pockets on the Greenspot it great for all cool weather 
outdoor activity.
Mark

On Tuesday, August 28, 2018 at 2:56:34 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Best rain jacket I’ve ever had, going on over five years now. No 
> affiliation, just a very satisfied customer. 20% off cotton analogy through 
> August. https://hilltrek.co.uk/shop-by-material/cotton-analogy/
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.CredoFamily.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>

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[RBW] urban/city tire rec: 650b, 38mm or so

[Ana Candela]

I’ve used these on my bike. I highly recommend all of them is their own 
qualities :)

-Soma New Xpress 650B x 38 (34.71) express - BLACK tread: I think these ones 
would fulfill what you’re looking for in terms of balance of budget, flat 
protection, and smooth ride. My only complaint is the tan walls that will never 
go back to their tan glory after a rainy ride. I know, trivial, but then what’s 
the point of tan walls if they’re stained?

-Panaracer Pasela PT Wire 650B x 42 tire, blackwall: also budget, more heavy 
duty, great flat protection. I used them all winter here in rainy Seattle’s 
potholed pavement. This is the maximum size that the fenders will fit. Barely a 
few mm of clearance, and you need to adjust the brake pads every time you take 
the tires off.

-Compass 650B x 42 Babyshoe Pass: splurge and luxury for sure, not what you’re 
looking for but definitely keep an eye on them. They're really nice and smooth 
and tougher than what they seem. I’ve only ridden them in fair weather, but 
they’ve handled great in Seattle’s awful pavement. Not sure if I’ll keep them 
for the rainy winter though.

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[RBW] Donated bike; intrepid recipient; request for equipment donations

[Ana Candela]

I think I have a headlight and a smaller pump. Would he need a lock? I also 
have a rear rack and compatible bag if his bike has eyelets for it. I could dig 
in my parts bin and send photos if needed.

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[RBW] Bar end shifters on Boscos?

[Ana Candela]

I love Boscos and I love bar end shifters; however, I would recommend to check 
your clearance with your knees. I think Boscos are great for larger bikes. I 
used them originally on my bike, but I have a smaller frame and knee clearance 
was a big issue unfortunately :(

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[RBW] FS: BarSack anyone?

[Ana Candela]

+1 to what Ryan said: it’s incredibly well made, plus many details, immaculate 
stitching, outstanding materials. Beautiful! Worth the price and more!

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[RBW] Re: Hilltrek Ventile Cotton Analogy Sale

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Andy brings up an excellent point, and so I’ll break out the basics of a 
temperature guide for the different fabrics (shift 10-20˚F depending on your 
own comfort levels at cold or warm temps):

Raining in the 70’s and up: no jacket.

50’s and 60’s: The more humid it is, the hotter any jacket is going to feel, 
but if raining, the hybrid will be most comfortable/effective, with double 
ventile and cotton analogy being warmer, but easily controled via ventilation 
and removing layers. I’ve learned I like the stiffness of the wet hood against 
hail. Sardonic grin. Single ventile will keep you dry in a shower, but will 
soak/seep through after only 5-15 minutes.

20’s through 40’s: Hybrid, double ventile, and Cotton analogy all roughly equal 
at temp management and external moisture protection. Being wet in these temps 
is a real danger zone, for if one has to stop for whatever reason while wet, 
cold is rapidly magnified. This is the temp range I find cotton analogy excells 
at actively removing moisture from exhertion, keeping me drying inside so that 
if I stop, I dry off rather quickly. Fishnet longjohn top is very helpful with 
moisture/temp management here as well.

Teens and below: At these temps, exterior moisture isn’t the issue. Wind and 
interior moisture are the challenges. Any windblocking layer that breaths well 
works excellently here. A standard canvas jacket works. The only key here is 
managing insulative layers to exhertion level, so less while riding, more when 
stopped. Moisture management becomes critical at temps below zero F because if 
you are damp inside while exherting and have to stop, you will enter 
hypothermia very quickly. So having extra layers to add quickly is essential, 
as is proper ventilation. This is also where fishnet longjohn shirt is very 
helpful.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Hilltrek Ventile Cotton Analogy Sale

[Tom Wyland]

Andy,

-12F Commute in Western PA!  Way to go!

Tom
(grew up in chilly Western PA but not resides in weeny winter Virginia)

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[RBW] Re: FS: Albastache Bar, Dirt Drop Stem

[Rich Lesnik]

Sold.

On Tuesday, August 28, 2018 at 10:35:58 AM UTC-7, Rich Lesnik wrote:
>
> Used but cleaned up. Dirt Drop stem is 10cm. Bar: $40; Stem: $30. Plus 
> shipping. $60 for the pair. Contact me at Rivendell (r...@rivbike.com)
>

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[RBW] Shimming middle chainring of sugino XD2 for 10 speed chain?

[EasyRider]

Riv has said that these cranks aren't 10 speed compatible and others have said 
it's because the xd2 spider spaces the rings a bit too wide for 10 speed setups 
(either the narrower chain falls into the gap between rings or an indexed FD 
doesn't push the chain sideways enough to make the shift, or both.)

If I wanted to run the xd2 as a compact double (42/28), do you think using thin 
washers to shim the middle ring in closer to the granny ring would prevent 
those 10 speed compatibility issues? I'd leave the outer ring off or get a 
chain guard.

I ask because I have a bike with 10 speed indexing in need of a new crank and I 
just found a pair of xd2s in the coop parts bin for $10.

Pete
Arlington, VA

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[RBW] Re: FS: BarSack anyone?

[Marc40a]

Great bag.

FYI, to photographers, the Ortlieb brand  padded camera insert fits the 
Sackville like a glove. 



On Friday, August 24, 2018 at 2:07:59 PM UTC-4, Christopher Wiggins wrote:
>
> Here's another example of something that's been here for a while and, 
> (apparently) no longer available.  
>
> As always, thanks for taking a look.
>
> Chris
> A1 Cyclery
>
> https://a1cyclery.com/product/sackville-barsack-olive/
>
> and the corresponding Nitto rack.
>
> https://a1cyclery.com/product/nitto-f15-bag-support/
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Weight weenie report. Dia Compe 980 brakes

[phil k]

Got a pair in.

So far it's been a breeze to set up, but I ditched the straddle hanger for 
moon units. The spring tension seems pretty even out the box. Did not have 
to adjust spring tension at all so far. So in that sense, it was just 
slightly easier to set up than the Paul Neo Retros. Can also adjust toe in.

Initial impression - less braking force than Paul Neo Retros, but not as 
grabby either. I think for a road bike it's a great option, but I would 
pick the Neo Retros for dirt/off-road applications. I don't feel the need 
to switch pads at the moment, but haven't been able to put its paces 
through any rain yet.

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[RBW] Re: Weight weenie report. Dia Compe 980 brakes

[Max S]

Garth, 

I agree that the 720 is a good brake and a good value. In fact I have it 
installed on one bike, but had to move all of the spacers / washers to the 
outboard side of the pad holder bolt, because the canti posts are closer to 
each other than currently standard. It actually works fine, but just — at the 
limit of the adjustment range for the brake. Just wondering if there is a 
simple and inexpensive option that works better (besides the old XT cantis). 

While we are on this tangent of narrow post spacing, are there V or mini-V 
style brakes that work better than others in this instance?.. 

- Max “narrow (post) minded for the moment” in A2

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[RBW] Re: Hilltrek Ventile Cotton Analogy Sale

[ascpgh]

Add my voice lauding the Hiltrek Ventile products. 

Patrick (and a few others) helped me target a garment a bit less water 
proof, but more breathable for use in a wider temperature band than the 
cotton analogy line. We should all be thanking Hiltrek for keeping Patrick 
and his camera out on his bike in the woods during the cold, wet and dark 
part of each of our cycling years. 

The bottom line made me gulp at first but after reviewing the number and 
cost of the series of miracle high tech "waterproof-breathable" garments 
which each proved to be neither in practical use but also not very durable, 
I realized that the right tool is always more costly up front. I'm headed 
into the stretch of the year for my Braemar Ventile Hybrid smock and could 
not be happier with its performance and durability. 

Sizing charts on the Hiltrek website helped substantiate my size choice 
regarding chest size, arm length, etc. My stock sized item allows some 
layering for the coldest of my commutes (-12°F last year) and lets there be 
some airspace when more temperate. My short torso for height build lets the 
tail be plenty for staying covered when on the bike. They do custom sizing 
for much less than I expected, but didn't need. 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh


On Tuesday, August 28, 2018 at 6:15:24 PM UTC-4, WETH wrote:
>
> I have been eyeing those.  Thanks for heads up on the discount.  Might 
> still be a bit too pricey for my budget, but I have a few days to ponder. 
>  Do you have the smock?  Did you size up to allow layering underneath or 
> does the garment fit loose in your recommended size (going by chest 
> measurement)?
> Thanks again
>

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[RBW] Re: Weight weenie report. Dia Compe 980 brakes

[Belopsky]

FYI these work better than other brakes I've had, but perhaps it's the 
lever. I have not put KoolStop pads on the Dia Compe 980 yet. Any 
suggestions for which? I am thinking just the Supra, same as I have on some 
V-brakes unless there is a better type to use on V-brakes and I'll swap

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[RBW] Re: Weight weenie report. Dia Compe 980 brakes

[Garth]

   Max,  Any cantilever intended for a cyclocross frame is by nature for 
narrow spacing.  

You might try a Tektro CR 710 for example. These are easy on the pocketbook 
AND work well. I replace all Tektro pads with Kool Stop blacks or salmons 
even before installing. I have this brake on my Bomba front and it's 
fantastic. Very firm, immediate response and strong braking, no squishies.  
It would also work on my canti road bike with narrow spacing, which I 
currently use SunTour XC Pro and those are outstanding !  

The CR710 seems to get overlooked for whatever reason compared to the 720, 
which on the Bomba was decidedly "just okay".  


On Tuesday, August 28, 2018 at 10:20:16 PM UTC-4, Max S wrote:
>
> What’s the optimum post spacing (on fork and stays) for these?.. 
>
> - Max “they don’t make them for narrow posts anymore” in A2 

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