Re: [RBW] Rapid rise derailleur rec

[Robert Blunt]

Thank you to everyone for your sound advice. I have ordered a few NOS
derailleurs to give them a try.
Best,
Rob

On Sun, Feb 4, 2024 at 1:16 AM John Dewey  wrote:

> Thanks for the clarification, Robert.
>
> It's nice to have someone with the *actually* f*actual* cred chime in.
> And also delighted to know that I'm not wasting all that effort as I put
> the horse up at the end of the day.
>
> Jock
>
> On Sat, Feb 3, 2024 at 7:19 PM Ron Mc  wrote:
>
>> I'm a metallurgist and licensed PE - relaxing RD spring absolutely
>> extends spring life.
>>
>> OP's question - Microshift R10 (made by Sun XCD)
>>
>> https://www.charlottecycles.com/product/microshift-r10-rear-derailleur-377496-1.htm
>>
>> On Friday, February 2, 2024 at 11:08:38 AM UTC-6 John Dewey wrote:
>>
>>> BTW, another little 'pro' tip 
>>>
>>> When you put your bike up, release tension on RD by shifting to the end
>>> so that spring is relaxed. For sure, I have no empirical evidence this
>>> extends spring life / strength, but it can't hurt, right?
>>>
>>> Jock
>>>
>>> On Fri, Feb 2, 2024 at 8:56 AM John Dewey  wrote:
>>>
 Robert, I've been shifting with XT M760 RR on JD bikes for many years.
 No derailleur envy or interest in experimenting with other systems. I
 collected them and so very happy I did. They were plentiful and reasonably
 priced...until they weren't.

 Grant is now building RR rear mechs, too, as I bet y'all know. It's
 beneficial to have the power going up the cassette when you need the extra
 juice.

 BTW, YMMV...but I'm not so good at shifting back & forth, i.e. moving
 from RR / normal / RR / normal. I find it difficult to switch habits.

 Jock

 On Fri, Feb 2, 2024 at 5:05 AM Robert Blunt  wrote:

> Hello everyone,
> I was wondering if anyone could make a recommendation on which Shimano
> 9 speed rapid rise derailleur you have had the best experience with and
> which has sufficient amounts of silver on it to look ok.
> Robert Blunt
> Pennington NJ
>
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> .
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Re: [RBW] Rapid rise derailleur rec

[John Dewey]

Thanks for the clarification, Robert.

It's nice to have someone with the *actually* f*actual* cred chime in. And
also delighted to know that I'm not wasting all that effort as I put the
horse up at the end of the day.

Jock

On Sat, Feb 3, 2024 at 7:19 PM Ron Mc  wrote:

> I'm a metallurgist and licensed PE - relaxing RD spring absolutely extends
> spring life.
>
> OP's question - Microshift R10 (made by Sun XCD)
>
> https://www.charlottecycles.com/product/microshift-r10-rear-derailleur-377496-1.htm
>
> On Friday, February 2, 2024 at 11:08:38 AM UTC-6 John Dewey wrote:
>
>> BTW, another little 'pro' tip 
>>
>> When you put your bike up, release tension on RD by shifting to the end
>> so that spring is relaxed. For sure, I have no empirical evidence this
>> extends spring life / strength, but it can't hurt, right?
>>
>> Jock
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 2, 2024 at 8:56 AM John Dewey  wrote:
>>
>>> Robert, I've been shifting with XT M760 RR on JD bikes for many years.
>>> No derailleur envy or interest in experimenting with other systems. I
>>> collected them and so very happy I did. They were plentiful and reasonably
>>> priced...until they weren't.
>>>
>>> Grant is now building RR rear mechs, too, as I bet y'all know. It's
>>> beneficial to have the power going up the cassette when you need the extra
>>> juice.
>>>
>>> BTW, YMMV...but I'm not so good at shifting back & forth, i.e. moving
>>> from RR / normal / RR / normal. I find it difficult to switch habits.
>>>
>>> Jock
>>>
>>> On Fri, Feb 2, 2024 at 5:05 AM Robert Blunt  wrote:
>>>
 Hello everyone,
 I was wondering if anyone could make a recommendation on which Shimano
 9 speed rapid rise derailleur you have had the best experience with and
 which has sufficient amounts of silver on it to look ok.
 Robert Blunt
 Pennington NJ

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 .

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Re: [RBW] Rapid rise derailleur rec

[Ron Mc]

I'm a metallurgist and licensed PE - relaxing RD spring absolutely extends 
spring life.  

OP's question - Microshift R10 (made by Sun XCD)
https://www.charlottecycles.com/product/microshift-r10-rear-derailleur-377496-1.htm

On Friday, February 2, 2024 at 11:08:38 AM UTC-6 John Dewey wrote:

> BTW, another little 'pro' tip 
>
> When you put your bike up, release tension on RD by shifting to the end so 
> that spring is relaxed. For sure, I have no empirical evidence this extends 
> spring life / strength, but it can't hurt, right?
>
> Jock
>
> On Fri, Feb 2, 2024 at 8:56 AM John Dewey  wrote:
>
>> Robert, I've been shifting with XT M760 RR on JD bikes for many years. No 
>> derailleur envy or interest in experimenting with other systems. I 
>> collected them and so very happy I did. They were plentiful and reasonably 
>> priced...until they weren't.
>>
>> Grant is now building RR rear mechs, too, as I bet y'all know. It's 
>> beneficial to have the power going up the cassette when you need the extra 
>> juice.
>>
>> BTW, YMMV...but I'm not so good at shifting back & forth, i.e. moving 
>> from RR / normal / RR / normal. I find it difficult to switch habits.
>>
>> Jock
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 2, 2024 at 5:05 AM Robert Blunt  wrote:
>>
>>> Hello everyone,
>>> I was wondering if anyone could make a recommendation on which Shimano 9 
>>> speed rapid rise derailleur you have had the best experience with and which 
>>> has sufficient amounts of silver on it to look ok.
>>> Robert Blunt
>>> Pennington NJ
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CAGTQPx-aUH8sKMOv4WrUgEHGV2k%2B3tMx5uEZuTRGQe-cknOZHg%40mail.gmail.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Dialing in a Brooks Saddle

[Will Boericke]

I like a flat saddle as well - Fizik generally does it for me, specifically
the Arione.  Even my leather saddles get tightened when they break in to
what I suspect is ideal for other rear ends.

Will

On Thu, Feb 1, 2024 at 5:52 PM Jay  wrote:

> I've been thinking a lot about saddles since yesterday's experiment.  I
> was reading the articles on bike.bikegremlin.com and I had some good
> take-away's.
>
> For one, I re-measured my sit bone width, and it was 115mm (I'm 155
> pounds, 32" waist and 6'0, so I have a skinny butt!).
>
> Two: I think what's always been odd about me is how I sit on a saddle.
> Although I'm flexible (can easily bend over and touch the floor, almost
> palms on the floor), I don't like an aero position because I have a
> long-term issue with my cervical spine.  It's much better, but I just
> prefer more upright than your typical roadie (I would think I'm around 55
> degree spine angle).  I can't explain how I sit on the saddle but a couple
> of bike fitters have made general comments (that I can't recall).
>
> Third and key for me, is saddle shape.  I've had the best luck on flat
> saddles tail to tip (not wavy), t-shaped, and flat curvature from side to
> side.  And if they have a cut out, it needs to be very small and not have
> edges that can dig into me.
>
> When I sit on a saddle that is too wide (I think my 147mm is too wide),
> I'm sitting forward, because my legs can't clear at the bottom of the pedal
> stroke.  Add a wide cut out to that (that is widest in the middle of the
> saddle) and I'm sitting on the widest part of the cut-out, which may dig
> into me.  Basically, I want my sit bones on the widest/flattest part of the
> saddle.
>
> If I was very upright, a B17 might work, but that's not how I ride (in
> particular with drop bars).  In the drops (love flared drops) I'm probably
> 45-50 spine angle, on the tops maybe 60.
>
> I'm now going on the hunt for a saddle around 140mm wide, and relatively
> flat in both directions.  I'll give that a shot and see how it goes!
>
> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 1:11:52 PM UTC-5 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I'm perfectly comfortable on B17s, and always have been... but I've
>> recently (past 2-3 years) switched to Berthoud saddles. I think one of the
>> issues Brooks saddles can have is that there seem to be inconsistencies in
>> the quality and thickness of the leather used. I'm still using a 15 year
>> old B17 Special that is very comfortable and still holding up strong, but
>> I've had a couple other B17s come and go since I first purchased this one.
>> I guess this one was just an especially good one, or whatever. You'll pay
>> more for other brands like Berthoud or Ideale but the leather is noticeably
>> better quality than what I've found on Brooks. A purely subjective data
>> point, but I've never bothered with padded shorts or chamois. I wear
>> regular shorts or pants with merino boxers no matter what type of ride or
>> ride length.
>>
>> -Brian
>> Lex KY
>>
>> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 12:43:59 PM UTC-5 Mojo wrote:
>>
>>> Jay,
>>>
>>> Here is my data point FWIW. I adjust my B17s to be nose up higher than
>>> back-of-saddle up. In other words, my saddle has less of a nose-up position
>>> less than the back flat position discussed here, creating a hammock shape,
>>> but again with the nose a bit higher than the back.
>>>
>>> I find B17s quite comfortable for day riding, but it literally wears on
>>> me on multiday tours. I have found the Berthoud Aspin, 157mm width, to be
>>> much more comfortable and more expensive. The WTB Pure, 148mm width, does
>>> well for day rides and costs so much less. Both tilt adjusted as described
>>> above.
>>>
>>> Joe in GJT
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, January 31, 2024 at 6:52:51 PM UTC-7 Jay wrote:
>>>
 Thanks for all the wisdom.  And the humour (Eric).

 I installed the saddle and tinkered with initial set up in my
 basement.  Proceeded to go out for ride one, around the block.  These very
 short rides tell me if I'm way off.  I was.  Made adjustments about five
 more times, going around my block once or twice each time.  Felt better,
 but never comfortable.  Went out for a 10k ride.  Stopped twice to adjust.
 I had the saddle level in the back, which puts the nose up (as you know).
 That had me neither sliding forward or backward, but it wasn't
 comfortable.  I felt like the tilt was right (no slide), height was good
 (decent extension at bottom of stroke), and I'm guessing fore/aft was
 good...no leg pain. Hard to say what was uncomfortable; I felt the skirt of
 the saddle, and general discomfort around the sit bones (not the sit bone
 pin-point area itself).

 When I ride my Prologo (147mm wide) I am very comfortable for 1-2
 hours, then it slowly becomes uncomfortable (friction/chafing).  The
 Prologo was comfortable from ride one (after the small adjustments per my
 routine).  On my Fargo, where I'm riding 

Re: [RBW] Brake cables and housing

[aeroperf]

Every 5000 miles the cables on my Sam get cleaned and lubed with Phils 
Tenacious Oil.

John Dewey - that is an outstanding photograph.

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[RBW] WTB: Large Trunksack and/or BackaBikes in Grey or Silver

[Nathan Mattia]

Hey There, Riv Riders
I am loving my Blue Trunksack on my Sam Hillborne.

I'd like to add a Large Silver or Grey Trunksack OR a set of BackaBike 
Panniers to my 87 Miyata 1000LT setup.  

Anybody out there want to sell some?

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[RBW] WTB: Large TrunkSack in Grey or Silver

[Nathan Mattia]

Hello there Riv-Riders!.  
My Samwise Hillborne loves his Blue Trunksack
AND, My Miyata 1000LT is purty, but it needs some bags.  
I'd like to get a Large Trunk Sack in Grey or Silver, and possibly a couple 
of Backabike panniers as well.
Anyone have any out there for sale?

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[RBW] Re: Why baskets and front bags instead of rear panniers or perfect Rivendell saddlebags?

[velomann]

I've done quite a bit of self-supported touring over the years, mostly 
solo, and I pretty quickly transitioned away from using a rear rack and 
rear panniers as soon as I started riding a low-trail 650b bike (my Ocean 
Air Cycles Rambler, RIP). I don't imagine I'll ever go back now. Both of my 
overnight touring bikes (Bantam Adventure bike and Bantam disc tourer) are 
designed for - and handle superbly with - most of the baggage weight 
forward. On the tourer I use an Acorn rando bag and front lowrider panniers 
(Swift Short stack), with either a Swift Zeitgeist or Carradice Nelson 
Longflap saddlebag. this set-up equalizes the fore/aft weight distribution 
and I can easily ride no-hands fully loaded.

For my Adventurebike, I don't use any panniers. I can fit everything I need 
in the front Fabio's Chest (sits on a custom front rack) and a Jack Supply 
Slugger mounted as a 
saddlebag https://www.jacksupplyco.com/shop/p/yolbwkp5ijyayzoys6p6rtzbhm1ws2

But I've got 5 other bikes set up for front load carrying as well. My Riv 
Hillborne, My Univega Via Carrisma (converted to Singlespeed) and my 89 
Rock hopper all have Wald 137 baskets, with either an Outershell Basket Bag 
or a Swift Sugarloaf. The Hillborne also  has a Swift Zeitgeist saddlebag.

Another possibility for front loading that I HIGHLY recommend is the Jack 
The Bike Rack from Wholegrain Cycles https://wholegraincycles.com/
I got in on the 2-for-1 Kickstarter, and have one mounted on my fixie and 
the other on my beater Diamondback Apex, and they are fantastic. I just use 
the straps to mount a big tote bag, but they work just as well for a Wald 
137, or strapping on firewood, or whatever you want to carry.

Mike M



On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 2:14:32 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I'm curious why so many Rivendell-listers prefer baskets to rear 
> saddlebags or panniers -- saddlebags in particular because Rivendell has 
> perfected the rear saddlebag -- I've owned a dozen at least of Riv 
> saddlebags over the years as well as probably 2 dozen Carradices and Acorns 
> and what have you's -- currently have a late-model Rivendell 9 liter or so 
> saddlebag that replaced an already very nice 9 liter Carradice Junior, and 
> it is slightly more practical and much more nicely built and prettier (main 
> reason I got it) than the Junior.
>
> I've tried front and rear baskets, in the rear single rack-mounted baskets 
> and pannier baskets, in front as large as the Wald Newsboy; and I've tried 
> huge porteur front racks; but none, rear and especially front, at least on 
> medium trail frames, allowed the sort of straight-stable, quick-cornering 
> handling I like -- I sold my old Herse because it didn't handle as I liked 
> ("like" defined by my Rivendell Roads) with either sizable rear or front 
> loads.
>
> But for real, practical carrying -- groceries, errand loads, commuting -- 
> I've gone back over and over again to a light rack and panniers; just so 
> much more capacious and versatile, IME. I've carried 50 lb with aplomb in 
> thinwall, normal-gauge frames, all in the rear (not ideal but on at least 1 
> old frame very doable) or, better, 35 rear 15 front (current Matthews IGH 
> Riv Road clone).
>
> I can see light front loads for very long rides where you want to be able 
> to easily get at the bag's contents, and I am open to being convinced that 
> very heavy loads (50 lb of newspapers) do better on very sturdy, low-trail 
> fork-mounted front platforms, but for ordinary Everyman riding on 
> non-low-trail Rivendells?
>
> 49 lb:
> [image: image.png]
>
> Longboard:
> [image: image.png]
>
>
>
>
>
> -- 
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> ---
>
> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
> services
>
>
> ---
>
> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>
> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>
> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Knobby tires and fenders

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks, very good suggestion about modifying the PDW tabs. Will take a
closer look at them and compare their ID with my stays' OD. One possible
complication is that the leftside front fender stay is bent to fit under
the disc caliper which might compromise fit of the plastic bracket. I'll
have to weigh this against shortening the fender and running stays to the
lowrider bosses.

On Sat, Feb 3, 2024 at 7:58 AM Steve  wrote:

> Patrick, to your QR question,  I've run fenders over knobbies on my
> Ritchey Outback (clearance ranging from ~ 15 to 20mm depending on the
> fender/tire combo) with and without QRs.   After bending a front fender
> stay with a jammed stick I took the hint and added a pair of Portland
> Design Works Safety Tabs. Before I finally pulled the fenders to
> accommodate larger tires for that bike I put the Safety Tabs to the test (x
> 2). They work!  As an aside, the larger tires I mounted are Oracle Ridges -
> love 'em!
>
> The PDW tabs are designed in two parts - a metal sleeve which is secured
> to the stay with a set screw and a plastic bracket that bolts to the fork
> mount. The two parts are jointed by a "pop off" barb on the plastic
> bracket. I'm guessing you could bore the sleeve out to fit your larger
> diameter stays if you want to give them a try.  Worst case - you might need
> to epoxy the sleeves to secure them to the stays if they wind up too thin
> walled to use the set screws.
>
> Regarding running  knobbies with 3+cm of fender clearance  (that's HUGE!):
>  there's only one way to know for sure.
>

That's with the Oracle Ridge. I'd like to use the Fleecer Ridge which would
reduce clearance to about 20 mm.


> [image: Happy smiley face or emoticon line art icon for apps and websites]
> Steve
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Knobby tires and fenders

[Steve]

Patrick, to your QR question,  I've run fenders over knobbies on my Ritchey 
Outback (clearance ranging from ~ 15 to 20mm depending on the fender/tire 
combo) with and without QRs.   After bending a front fender stay with a 
jammed stick I took the hint and added a pair of Portland Design Works 
Safety Tabs. Before I finally pulled the fenders to accommodate larger 
tires for that bike I put the Safety Tabs to the test (x 2). They work!  As 
an aside, the larger tires I mounted are Oracle Ridges - love 'em! 

The PDW tabs are designed in two parts - a metal sleeve which is secured to 
the stay with a set screw and a plastic bracket that bolts to the fork 
mount. The two parts are jointed by a "pop off" barb on the plastic 
bracket. I'm guessing you could bore the sleeve out to fit your larger 
diameter stays if you want to give them a try.  Worst case - you might need 
to epoxy the sleeves to secure them to the stays if they wind up too thin 
walled to use the set screws. 

Regarding running  knobbies with 3+cm of fender clearance  (that's HUGE!): 
 there's only one way to know for sure
[image: Happy smiley face or emoticon line art icon for apps and websites]
Steve
On Wednesday, January 31, 2024 at 11:20:14 AM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I should have added as context that while I ride in sandy conditions, I 
> also ride in our riverside bosque with thickly scattered cottonwood debris 
> scattered over many of the trails.
>
> On Wed, Jan 31, 2024 at 9:18 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> Thanks Steve and Mike. Question: Do you use a QR strut system with your 
>> fenders or do you feel confident enough to use your VO Zeppelins and 
>> Tanakas and VO Fluted fenders with direct, bolted stay connections to frame 
>> and fork?
>>
>> I have no problem using fenders over non-knobby tires; I did this with 
>> the Big Ones with, again, smaller than canonical clearances under crown and 
>> certainly under seatstay bridge, but I am much more wary of doing this with 
>> knobby tires.
>>
>> Again, my safe choices seem to be: Fleecer ridge (~60 mm) for max sand 
>> float but without fenders, or (~50 mm) Oracle Ridge under the fenders, 
>> which I'd like to keep on the bike.
>>
>> Re fender QRs: Even if I could find some to work with the much fatter 
>> Kelpie stays, these fenders and stays are so sturdy -- stays and fenders 
>> 50% thicker gauge at least than VOs and Honjos -- that even with QR stays 
>> I'd still be very wary of having a stick slam the front wheel to a stop. 
>> Anecdote: Colin at Kelpie first offered his fenders in titanium but after 
>> he picked up a stick and jammed his wheel, and damaged his fork but not his 
>> fender, he started using thick gauge aluminum so that the fenders might 
>> break before the fork does. But even so, these fenders are so sturdy that 
>> I'd be very reluctant to risk a stick on the front tire with less than 
>> optimal clearance.
>>
>> So the question remains: 3+ cm over an Oracle Ridge?
>>
>> [image: image.png]
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 30, 2024 at 8:41 AM Steve  wrote:
>>
>>> Not a direct comparison, but I can share that I've run 42mm Knobbies 
>>> (WTB Resolutes) with both 52mm VO Zeppelins and 58mm Tanaka smooth fenders. 
>>> I also ran a pair of 40mm Continental Terra Speeds (low profile knobs) 
>>> under the Tanakas. Each of those combinations would occasionally kick 
>>> leaves and small  sticks up into the front fender when riding gated fire 
>>> roads, sometimes necessitating a stop to clear the debris. My turf, 
>>> however, is woodsy Appalachian national forest -- a bit different from 
>>> Patrick's high desert.  
>>>
>>> This past autumn when the leaves began to fall I pulled the fenders off 
>>> my 'dirt bike' and mounted the largest tires the bike would accommodate; 
>>> 48mm RH Oracle Ridge knobbies. I've been delighted with the bigger tires. 
>>> The fenders have been safely stored away, waiting for the day when I decide 
>>> to mount some 38mm RH Barlow Passes on it, swap the upright bars for drops 
>>> and take it on the road.
>>>
>>> Steve in Asheville
>>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 30, 2024 at 11:16 AM 'Michael Kashuba' via RBW Owners Bunch <
>> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Another data point…..I’m running 700 X50mm (actual measurement is 
>>> 48/49mm width) SOMA Cazaderos with VO fluted 63mm fenders on my 60cm 
>>> Appaloosa. All is fine clearance wise as long as I don’t mud up…☺️
>>>
>>> Mike in Fair Oaks, CA
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>
>
> -- 
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> ---
>
> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
> services
>
>
> ---
>
> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>
> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>

[RBW] Re: Brake cables and housing

[Bill Lindsay]

Jon Bokman asked: "How often do you all change your cables and housing?"

I change my cables and housing as often as I need to, or as often as I feel 
like it.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Friday, February 2, 2024 at 9:21:19 AM UTC-8 John Bokman wrote:

> Obviously there are infinite variables (weather, amount of miles ridden, 
> etc.), but the question is: 
> How often do you all change your cables and housing? 
>
> I ride daily, often in wet conditions. My braking is sufficient, but I'm 
> always wondering if it couldn't be a bit better with new cable and housing? 
> Of course that requires removing my years old, many layered shellac over 
> cloth tape
>
> Just curious.
>
> John
> Portland, OR
>

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Re: [RBW] Roaduno and the state of single speed bikes

[Richard Rose]

Arthur, very interesting re Frank Jones. Although I had heard of that bike I am not familiar with it. How is it different from the Roaduno? Yesterdays update reinforces my suspicion that there may be nothing else quite like the new bike.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 3, 2024, at 9:04 AM, Arthur Mayfield  wrote:Not what else is out there, but what should be—Rivendell should bring back the Frank Jones. 700c, sidepull brakes, 120mm rear hub, fully lugged, fits up to 42mm tires (I have 32s with PDW fenders). I have three Rivs (FJ, Platy, caliper Sam), but my FJ is what I think of when I want to ride simply, or simply want to ride. Without a doubt, an elegant bicycle.On Saturday, February 3, 2024 at 5:15:38 AM UTC-5 Eric Daume wrote:The Surly Steamroller can take a 38mm tire, but no fender.The sadly out of production Cross Check could do a 38mm with a fender.EricOn Fri, Feb 2, 2024 at 5:16 PM Edwin W  wrote:I like single speed bikes, many like single speed bikes. The simplicity, the possibility of fixed gear, it is the epitome of biking for me, I think.I like the idea of the roaduno. So far it looks like it will have 700c/622 wheel size, long reach side pull brakes. Rear facing drop outs. Those are the main factors to think about, because stem length, handlebar and lever type, fenders or not, dynamo or not, are flexible on most bikes.What is the competition, and what are they offering?Crust Lightning bolt single speed. 650b wheels with anti posts. BMC Monstercross. 700c wheels and cantilever posts. But that has 135mm rear spacing, so not exactly built for single speed.What else is out there that can take a 38mm (or so) tire with a fender?Edwin



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Re: [RBW] B17 alternatives

[jad...@gmail.com]

I have two C17 and one B17 and ultimately the bikes that end up going on 
the longer rides ie 80-110 mile 18-20mph rides are the bikes with the 
C17's.  It took me a few longer rides to gel with the C17 but now they are 
my favs.  If you have not given your C17 a chance on a couple longer rides 
maybe give it a try.  took just a bit for the texture to not be so grippy 
on the bike shorts. I have a standard c17 and the C17 special. 

On Friday, February 2, 2024 at 12:19:03 PM UTC-7 Nick Payne wrote:

> p.s. Here's a quite interesting video showing the manufacture of the 
> Berthoud saddles: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0OeHK6sVEw.
>

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Re: [RBW] Roaduno and the state of single speed bikes

[Arthur Mayfield]

Not what else is out there, but what should be—Rivendell should bring back 
the Frank Jones. 700c, sidepull brakes, 120mm rear hub, fully lugged, fits 
up to 42mm tires (I have 32s with PDW fenders). I have three Rivs (FJ, 
Platy, caliper Sam), but my FJ is what I think of when I want to ride 
simply, or simply want to ride. Without a doubt, an *elegant* bicycle.

On Saturday, February 3, 2024 at 5:15:38 AM UTC-5 Eric Daume wrote:

> The Surly Steamroller can take a 38mm tire, but no fender.
>
> The sadly out of production Cross Check could do a 38mm with a fender.
>
> Eric
>
> On Fri, Feb 2, 2024 at 5:16 PM Edwin W  wrote:
>
>> I like single speed bikes, many like single speed bikes. The simplicity, 
>> the possibility of fixed gear, it is the epitome of biking for me, I think.
>>
>> I like the idea of the roaduno. So far it looks like it will have 
>> 700c/622 wheel size, long reach side pull brakes. Rear facing drop outs. 
>> Those are the main factors to think about, because stem length, handlebar 
>> and lever type, fenders or not, dynamo or not, are flexible on most bikes.
>>
>> What is the competition, and what are they offering?
>> Crust Lightning bolt single speed. 650b wheels with anti posts. 
>>
>> BMC Monstercross. 700c wheels and cantilever posts. But that has 135mm 
>> rear spacing, so not exactly built for single speed.
>>
>> What else is out there that can take a 38mm (or so) tire with a fender?
>>
>> Edwin
>>
>> -- 
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>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/ef477e87-6e73-4984-9b85-d3c5946f0d79n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Brake cables and housing

[Dorothy C]

You could also try dripping a little lubricant through the housings a la 
Bike Farmer on Youtube. I’ll admit that I have sprung for Analog Cycles’ 
Jagwire housings including the 5mm shifter housing, with brass ferrules and 
the Jagwire Pro or Jagwire Ultra Slick cables. Spendy but very responsive, 
and according to Analog, very long lasting, though I am in SoCal so don’t 
see a lot of wet weather. My bikes are much younger - a 2016 Appa, 2019 
Cheviot, 2020 Roadini (47cm), 2022 Roadini (50cm) and 2023 Platy. The nice 
thing about brass ferrules is that they are reusable if you are changing 
bars or bike frames. I moved three of my Jagwire cables and housings from a 
45cm Clem to the Platy complete, only reason I couldn’t swap the rear brake 
one was because the Clem is continous and the Platy has open stops on the 
down tube, and I was selling the Clem as a complete after swapping parts, 
so I needed to keep the housing intact. Once I got the Platy built, I got a 
new set of ferrules, Jagwire housing and the Jagwire Ultra Slick rear brake 
cable and felt a definite improvement in brake feel.

On Friday, February 2, 2024 at 9:39:29 AM UTC-8 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

> I've had brake cables and housing good for 15 years on my 3 Ti frames with 
> a total of around 4 miles, rain or shine (you don't break bike frames 
> if you don't ride). The brakes worked fine throughout the 15 years and I 
> only swapped out for newer cables when I got my Roadini and noted how good 
> the brakes felt despite the longer calipers. I attributed that to the fancy 
> Shimano Optislick cable set I'd gotten on sale (https://amzn.to/3HHOdl4), 
> but after the replacement realized it was just that 15 years is probably 
> asking a bit much. But in any case it wasn't a safety issue!
>
> On Friday, February 2, 2024 at 9:21:19 AM UTC-8 John Bokman wrote:
>
>> Obviously there are infinite variables (weather, amount of miles ridden, 
>> etc.), but the question is: 
>> How often do you all change your cables and housing? 
>>
>> I ride daily, often in wet conditions. My braking is sufficient, but I'm 
>> always wondering if it couldn't be a bit better with new cable and housing? 
>> Of course that requires removing my years old, many layered shellac over 
>> cloth tape
>>
>> Just curious.
>>
>> John
>> Portland, OR
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: NBOD: New Bike Ordered Day! The mythical canti-Roa!

[Sarah Carlson]

This Riv Sister is sitting here with stars in her eyes imagining this bike! 
The update just made my morning. Waiting happily for the big reveal!

On Friday, February 2, 2024 at 1:22:43 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Only the RivSisters are allowed to read this update:
>
> Today, Rick emailed me about the cream accents he is painting on my 
> color-matched aluminum fenders.  As far as I can tell, that is the last of 
> the last details, which means New Frame Day may arrive before my 55th 
> birthday on Thursday the 8th.  
>
> I'll repeat, this info is only for the RivSisters.  Everyone else will get 
> this information after I've seen the finished product and can share photos. 
>  Only the RivSisters get this early preview spoiler: My new Nobilette built 
> Canti-Roadeo is Pink.  The frame and fork are Pink with Cream headtube and 
> accents.  The Nobilette stem is Pink.  The Honjo fenders are pink with 
> cream "French tips". 
>
> Don't tell anybody else.  They'll find out soon enough...  
>
> :)
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 11:21:06 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Small update for the Sisters: Rick picked up my frame from Riv this week 
>> for paint
>> Big update for the Sisters: I emailed Rick separately and he agreed to 
>> let me drop off my Rene Herse (Honjo) fenders to paint as well.  I'm beyond 
>> excited about that.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Monday, December 4, 2023 at 6:03:36 AM UTC-8 sarahlik...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I have already let Leah know, and we will be holding our breath for the 
>>> big reveal wherever it shows up first. This is not even our first 
>>> conversation about bike colors today, and won't be the last... because 
>>> that's how we are. Your RivSisters are waiting!
>>>
>>> On Sunday, December 3, 2023 at 7:13:08 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
 I absolutely will be hoping for RivSister approval of my color way.  In 
 my convo with Grant, he asked to photograph a number of the projects I've 
 been working on or recently completed, like he may Blagh about it, and 
 since this Canti-Roa is a relatively unique thing, I was going to give 
 them 
 first shot at the actual reveal.  

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, Ca

 On Sunday, December 3, 2023 at 5:17:12 AM UTC-8 sarahlik...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> I love seeing someone else's bike dream fulfilled! Congratulations on 
> your new bike day and what color did you paint your bike??! (I 
> promise you all your RivSisters want to know...) 
>
> On Saturday, December 2, 2023 at 8:19:18 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Since starting this thread, I did spring for a fancy new wheel set 
>> that I'm pretty excited about.  I like the people and products at HED, 
>> and 
>> I appreciate their vestigial commitment to rim brakes.  They offer a 
>> premier rim treatment called RA black.  The rim is machined rough, and 
>> then 
>> hard anodized to give a super high friction braking surface.  It's 
>> supposed 
>> to be premier braking, and I'm excited to try it out.  
>>
>> Mocking up the weights of things, I may be able to pull in a full 
>> build at 18.5 pounds without rack and fenders, and maybe (just maybe) at 
>> 19.99lbs with rack and fenders.  We'll see how it turns out...  it will 
>> not 
>> be red. 
>>
>> BL in EC
>>
>> On Saturday, December 2, 2023 at 9:23:07 AM UTC-8 Ryan wrote:
>>
>>> Can hardly wait to see it built up! Long wait but worth it I'm sure 
>>>
>>> On Saturday, December 2, 2023 at 9:57:15 AM UTC-6 George Schick 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 You gonna stick with the default red/white Roadeo color scheme or 
 choose something else?


 On Saturday, December 2, 2023 at 8:45:33 AM UTC-6 Bill Lindsay 
 wrote:

> ...and 20 months later, it has arrived!  Rivendell received my 
> Cantilever Roadeo from Nobilette this week, and it's off to paint.  I 
> paid 
> them a visit and gave it a look over.  It looks very nice and I'm 
> eager to 
> see it painted, and built up.  
>
> On my visit I had a very nice chat with Grant about various 
> things, and a few of the familiar old faces were there, so it was a 
> pleasant visit all around.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, April 6, 2022 at 11:15:17 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay 
> wrote:
>
>> John
>>
>> I will definitely run my current Roadeo wheelsets.  27mm 
>> tubulars.  Rene Herse Stampede Pass (622-32) and Bon Jon Pass 
>> (622-35).  
>> For kicks I'll probably check how Barlow Passes look on the bike 
>> (622-38).  
>>
>> I don't plan on using fenders.  I plan on being able 

Re: [RBW] Roaduno and the state of single speed bikes

[Eric Daume]

The Surly Steamroller can take a 38mm tire, but no fender.

The sadly out of production Cross Check could do a 38mm with a fender.

Eric

On Fri, Feb 2, 2024 at 5:16 PM Edwin W  wrote:

> I like single speed bikes, many like single speed bikes. The simplicity,
> the possibility of fixed gear, it is the epitome of biking for me, I think.
>
> I like the idea of the roaduno. So far it looks like it will have 700c/622
> wheel size, long reach side pull brakes. Rear facing drop outs. Those are
> the main factors to think about, because stem length, handlebar and lever
> type, fenders or not, dynamo or not, are flexible on most bikes.
>
> What is the competition, and what are they offering?
> Crust Lightning bolt single speed. 650b wheels with anti posts.
>
> BMC Monstercross. 700c wheels and cantilever posts. But that has 135mm
> rear spacing, so not exactly built for single speed.
>
> What else is out there that can take a 38mm (or so) tire with a fender?
>
> Edwin
>
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> 
> .
>

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Re: [RBW] Ride Report - Santa Monica to Santa Barbara Century

[Keith Paugh]

Armand - Yup! Looking forward to it.Will we see your Platypus there?Ian, Sally & Ben - Thank you! Very kind of you to say.Chris - Yes. Rode out, and returned home the same day by car.Put together that ride and I’ll take the train up to join you guys! It is beautiful out there.Patrick - I agree. I don’t know if I should be any measure, but I say go for it! I bet New Mexico would have amazing desert routes to map out.The “Racing basket” is just a Wald basket that they cut down to half height. (I think they look cool)The odometer/speedometer is a digital bike computer built into analog guts. Omata One is name. They are so rad. Measures speed, time, distance, and elevation gain, and then syncs with your phone to record the data. Picked this one up used. k.On Feb 2, 2024, at 1:57 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:odometer/stopwatch/speedometer.



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