I've used Tektro drop-bar linear-pull-compatible levers with my Motolites with
no problem. I've been led to believe that my levers are actually just sort of
generic Cane Creek Drop-V levers. That could be wrong. But in any case the
Tektro levers worked fine. (There's nothing like a Paul Love
Hi
I've been using the Paul Motolite's on my S.H. with Tektro MT3.0 V-brake
flat bar levers.
When set up correctly they feel amazing. Very secure
I just moved to the Albastache so I purchased the Cane Creek Drop-V's which
are a linear pull lever designed to work with V-brakes.
For some reason
One great addition to Paul cantis are the Nugz that Hunter Cycles make. Very
slick way to do small adjustments on the straddle.
Dan
On Jul 21, 2014, at 9:39 PM, Christian christian.w.mcmil...@gmail.com wrote:
Thanks Michael. I've got the cable set up pretty close to the tire-a little
The spring are gold and silver. Different brakes use them differently.
The only way to know for sure is to read the installation instruction.
They're online if you need them.
Michael
On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 12:39:24 AM UTC-4, Christian wrote:
Thanks Michael. I've got the cable set up
Hi All,
Many folks here note that they needed to do some fiddling with their Paul's
to get them set up right. I'm curious what tricks people have used to get
the best performance out of their Paul cantis? I have touring cantis and
they're fine. Beautiful, of course, but performance wise
If the issue is power, instead of centering, rubbing, noise or stability, I
would expect one of two causes. First, it may be a mismatch with the
levers. I found that the Shimano SIS levers did not work well with any
cantis. They just pull too much cable to get a good grip. Second, and
here
If you're going to the trouble of brazing on cantilever bosses, why not
consider brazing on Racer bosses? They're the same exact bosses located
differently. I guess you'll lock yourself into just one single type of
brake and you'll need to buy the stainless sleeves, but I really like the
Racer
Thanks Michael. I've got the cable set up pretty close to the tire-a little
less than an inch from the fender. They really are working fine. How does
ones tell which direction is right on the springs, by the way? I AM easily
confused.
Best wishes,
Christian
On Monday, July 21, 2014
I have no experience with the mini mottos but have neo retros on the
Saluki, Racer M's on the Rambouillet, and the posted Racers on the Bilenkey
Tandem. Paul's brakes do set up differently from Shimano / Tektro style
brakes and it took me a while to catch on, now I find it super easy. It's
If you're using MTB-style levers, and they're compatible with v-brakes, I'd
recommend some full-size v-brakes (i.e. 100mm or longer
http://www.gravelbike.com/?p=3298). Power will be greatly improved, and
clearance shouldn't be an issue.
Given the choice, I'll take mini/v-brakes over cantilevers
Interesting comments regarding the clearance. I would have assumed the Neos and
minis would have the same clearance given the same pads. But are we talking
about getting a tire past the pads, or the Minis arms contacting the tire and
or fender when braking?
I'm not too concerned with either
I'm
Talking about height to the wire over the tire.
-J
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To
I like supporting US companies so I prefer to use Paul's on all my bikes.
For me, as well, I think most V brakes are just plain ugly too. The Mini
moto's are ok looking because of the graceful curve but the wire clearance
over the tire just clears a Rock'n road. and yes the polished
Yep. I agree on all counts. The original matte grey XTR vbrakes were sexy on
the MTB back when, but the luggy looks of a Riv sure beg for a classier
approach.
I will say the first few times I saw the mini motos I thought they looked
wonky. It seemed like the pad spacing or the spring tension
I'm getting a hankering for a new bike, something stout to tour and camp
with, and am playing with brake ideas. What I wish Paul would do is make a
shorter version of their Motolites, the asymetrical MiniMotos just look
strange to me. I have TRP RX-6 mini Vees on my LongLow, and they're quite
I don't know about the minis because all I've used are the Paul Moto BMX
brakes on my Samthey are powerful once set up correctly, which can
actually take some fiddling. There must be some trick I wasn't getting when
I was setting mine up because I fussed and fussed with them for over an
I have Neo-Retros on my Hunq and I have to say I'm a little disappointed.
They look great, but don't have as much stopping power as I'd like. (I've
consulted Sheldon's articles on cantilever brake theory and practice, and
have done my best to optimize the geometry.)
The Minis are an intriguing
Brad, I'm kinda in the same boat... I had brazed on Racers which are
incredible rim brakes but I find them a touch klunky. I have the
neo-retros on two bikes, them seem to have better modulation with the
fatter spacers on the pads.
I'd like to try the Mini motos but I'm currently running 48
Its a shame they wont clear 55s, I hear rave reviews about them but would
hate to lose my fenders.
On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 11:09 PM, Mike Schiller mikeybi...@rocketmail.com
wrote:
Brad, I'm kinda in the same boat... I had brazed on Racers which are
incredible rim brakes but I find them a
If you want to try minis with a lower buy-in, check out the TRP CX9. Very
nice brakes that will stop you when you want to be stopped!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321457184366
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 8:23 PM, Peter Morgano
20 matches
Mail list logo
