If this was basic troubleshooting then you would have found your problem.
Your having a hard time as the list is long with questions.
Just trying to help,
--- On Tue, 10/7/08, Mike Besemer (WM4B) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
From: Mike Besemer (WM4B) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE:
Hi all. We recently moved our Micor UHF and VHF repeaters to my home.
However, the move seems to have broken the TLE1703A amp on the UHF
repeater; Does anyone here have the schematic for this amp? The
TLD5492A4 exciter is putting out 700mW as well which sounds a bit
high. If anyone has the
Yep.
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gary Schafer
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2008 11:35 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Desense has me pulling my hair out! (Was
DB4060 Duplexer Cables
Hi Mike,
I am
Skipp,
Doing that produces some interesting noises in the receiver. It will go
from full-quieting to complete garbage without much movement. Tapping,
beating, and banging seem to have little to no effect.
I think I'm going to tear them down again and reclean all the mating
surfaces. I
No. it really IS basic troubleshooting. I've eliminated everything BUT the
cans, and I've tried to let that be known here.
Swaptronics is easy. swap out what you have duplicates of and eliminate
suspects until you narrow it down to the faulty subsystem component. I
spent over 20 years in
The Repeater Builder web server is undergoing an upgrade. It will be
unavailable for a while.
Thanks,
Kevin Custer
At 10/7/2008 03:03, you wrote:
With the tee connector split and the TX side going into a dummy load,
there is no desense. If I reconnect the tee and go to the -8920, the
desense is back.
Make sure there's an isolator on the TX. I've seen severe desense using a
perfectly good, tuned duplexer
On one specific cavity or more than one? You're almost at the
problem. No garbage with tapping, beating and banging is a good
sign. One might guess you have some type of micro pitting and
at least one hard point pitted contact on one of the mating
surfaces.
One or more of the metal plunger
Just out of curiosity what power supply are you using? I've seen a
fair amount of RFI from the
Astron SS series.
If the silver plating seems to be scratched, I have had good luck with the
products that are used to silver plate circuit boards. I don't recall the
product name that I used, but it was/is available from Digikey and such. I
merely used fine steel wool to polish the plunger and then used the
skipp025 wrote:
You didn't say how you'd cleaned the surface in the past. I would
only use a Brass or hard Stainless Steel brush to avoid embedding
non same metals into the plunger or contact surface. Using a common
steel wire brush is not a good idea.
s.
Also NEVER use an over the
With the tee connector split and the TX side going into a
dummy load, there is no desense. If I reconnect the tee and
go to the -8920, the desense is back.
You lost me on that one. You're saying you're testing for desense by
removing the tee from the antenna port of the duplexer, feeding
Skipp,
Please explain your first statement. if I can't see it on the
spectrum analyzer, then what is it?
Not to step on Skipp's toes, but I think what he was getting at is that
spectrum analyzers have a limited dynamic range, probably around 80 dB. So
you can only see noise/spurs down as
Randy wrote:
http://www.retrevo.com/s/Racom+1300?sub.x=42sub.y=15
Reposted so the link is clickable...
Scott, a product that I have used on all kinds of connections including RF
is Stabilant 22.
It is made in Richmond Hill Ontario and does a wonderful job of making a
good connection
between metal surfaces.
It is quite expensive, $35.00 for a small bottle but you only need a drop
of it to
Jeff,
I have been watching this thread and must say your explanation here is
very well done. Thank you from the rest of us watching.
Collin
-Original Message-
From: Jeff DePolo [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 1:00 pm
Subject: RE:
It's an analog supply built into the repeater.
Mike
WM4B
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of DCFluX
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 11:55 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Desense has me pulling my hair out!
I thought that's what Skipp was saying but I wasn't sure. I think (without
looking) the -8920 is good for 80dB.
Gonna redo the duplex test with a different iso-tee, just on the off chance
that something is amiss there.
Mike
WM4B
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL
Not so much one cavity more than the other... but on the TX side more than
the other.
Gonna try to play tonight.
73,
Mike
WM4B
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of skipp025
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 11:23 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Take a look here:
http://www.repeater-builder.com/db/db-4060-4062-repair.pdf
73
Bernie
K5BP
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ralph Hogan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
While we are on the subject of the DB4060/62, I've got a couple of
dead cans
with a bad tuning cap.
Does anyone
Paul,
I got the knobs off two of them and got them totally pulled apart. Both of
them have a lot of lubricant on the inner tubes. looks like somebody may
have lubed the threads with 3-in-1 oil or something and it ran inside. The
inside of the outer tube on one of them has some white 'stuff'
Mike,
Thanks for this information. I will make a note of this. The DB4060
and 4062 duplexers I've seen had identical loops (all strap)
throughout. Apparently some were different for whatever reason.
Here's another interesting bit... mine all had 004 penciled on them
but they were built like
Paul,
I just noticed that what I wrote here was backwards... the 004s had the
strap all the way around and the 005s had the wire extension.
If I figure out what goes where, I'll let you know.
Did you have trouble with the top of the inner loop catching on the
fingerstock and tweaking it a bit?
Forgot to mention... yes, the knobs were soldered on. I'm amazed they take
that much heat without damage. I'm glad you figured that part out... it had
me stumped.
I'll report back with progress when I get them done.
73,
Mike
WM4B
-Original Message-
From:
These babies are looking pretty rough, Paul (et al). After one pass with
the synthetic steel wool and a wipe with isopropyl alcohol, I can see that
the copper plating near the open end of the outer tubes is nearly gone on
two of the cans. Have not done the other two yet, but they seem to be in
---http://www.mapquest.com/maps?city=Greensborostate=NCaddress=%5B400-
499%5D+Scott+Avezipcode=27403country=USlatitude=36.06995longitude=-
79.83005geocode=STREET
.
.
In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Captainlance [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Has anyone recently heard of or had contact with the
How does one tell the differance between a High Low power and
VHF or UHF Mitrek?
Thankyou
Randy,
A low-power Mitrek chassis has fins that are about 1/2 deep, while the
high-power units have fins that are about 1-1/2 deep.
A VHF high-band radio (150-174 MHz) will have a 3 as the third character
in the model number, as in T43JJA6900DK. A UHF radio will have a 4 in the
same location.
Hi guys .Would anyone know where I can get a 100 watt uhf commercial amp
450-500mhz in Australia or us
Thank You,
Ian Wells,
Kerinvale Comaudio,
361 Camboon Road.Biloela.4715
Phone 0749922574 or 0409159932
www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au
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