Or you could junk the old supply.
Go to a switcher and for the 9.6 use a 7809 with a diode in the ground
connection,
Make sure you fuse and add the proper caps to the input and output of the
7809.
You will just have saved the planet some greenhouse gasses
Not to mention your electric bill.
N
I found a junk TPN1110B power supply in my garage, and removed the two heavy
diode assemblies. They are, indeed, 1N3492R diodes that are press-fitted
into a small aluminum plate marked 64B83562D01 and ink-stamped 1V80739B59.
Yes, the last digit is a "9" not a "7" on both of these diode assemblies.
The capacitance may be split between capacitors to reduce the effects
of internally generated heat, ESR and inductance.
I would use the same number of capacitors as the engineer that
designed the supply specified.
I would also use 105 degree C capacitors that have the lowest ESR
that I could a
At 09:49 AM 09/19/08, you wrote:
>Eric,
>
>(big chunk cut out)
>
>When I looked up the 1-80739B57 diodes, I found them to be NLA, but the
>description is "BD EYLTD". That doesn't make much sense, unless the diodes
>were offered only as an assembly.
All 01-part numbers are assemblies, frequently d
Eric,
I did some research on those capacitors, and found that the original part
number 2383093G20 is NLA. However, I noticed that part number 2383093G27 is
still available, and is described as "CAP ALU 17500 -10 +150 20V". It is
priced on MOL at $ 36.59 each. I wonder if it is a suitable substi
The problem with buying NOS caps is that they might have been new in 1980.
They've been sitting on the shelf for all this time, and might not be much
better than what you have now (unless yours are shorted).
Bob M.
==
--- On Fri, 9/19/08, kk2ed <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> From: kk2ed <[EMA
THE DIODES CAN BE REPLACED WITH 1N1191A, THEY ARE "REVERSE" POLARITY, AND CAN
BE SCREWED DIRECTLY TO THE CHASSIS. I HAVE USED THEM MANY TIME WITH GREAT
LUCK... AND THEY HANDLE LOTS MORE CURRENT THAN THE FACTORY ONES DO.
LANCE N2HBA
- Original Message -
From: kk2ed
To: Repeater-Bui
At 11:53 AM 09/18/08, you wrote:
>
>(big chunk cut out)
>
>I have a second TPN1110A that works but has horrible voltage sag and
>ac hum under load. So I guess I will be rebuilding two of them at
>once.
If that is one of the supplies based on the ferroresonant transformer
then the first thing to do
to maintain the original Motorola configuration,
> or
> finding a current component that will do the job and be
> readily
> available if it ever fails again.
> >
> > Bob M.
> > ==
> > --- On Thu, 9/18/08, Bob M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> >
_ I really Like all My Motorola equipment, I have the Micor unified
chassis in a 6 Ft Motorola Rack with everything Else need for the
444.750 repeater, I started having Problems with the Micor Power Supply
and I would set in a Chair remove the Screws from the rack and lift and
pull out the Supply
FWIW - I repaired several SpectraTAC receiver drawer power supplies about a
year or so ago, and those huge caps were still available from Motorola. But
they WERE very expensive - if I remember correctly, I bought enough caps to
repair two complete chassis power supplies (maybe 8 of them total) and
d be readily available if it ever fails again.
Bob M.
==
--- On Thu, 9/18/08, Bob M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> From: Bob M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor TPN1110A power supply parts ID
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Date:
M.
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2008 12:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor TPN1110A power supply parts ID
The diodes are probably very similar to what an automobile alternator uses.
Of course, finding the exact replacements could still be diff
Those big aluminum electrolytic caps with screw terminals are getting extinct,
and if you DO find one, it'll likely be expensive. You can get something quite
smaller in size but the same or larger electrical value. Go with that. Stuff
some stiff foam rubber or even some wood slats around the bot
14 matches
Mail list logo
