Re: SD Re: Lancer back seat latches; ISO Maryland mechanic
The one on my mom's car broke the year we got the car in 1986. Being old is not necessarily the problem. :) I remember now that after replacing it once, we epoxied an aluminum plate to the back of the handle after gluing it back together. I believe that held for the rest of the life of the car. The one in my CSX broke a couple of years back. Russ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Greetings, SDML. I too have broken one of my Lancer's back seat latches, and look forward to hearing how the JB Weld solution works. I'm also looking for a turbo Dodge savvy mechanic in Maryland, preferably Montgomery County. Does anyone know if Dave Skrab is still working on our cars, and how to get in touch with him? Ayone have another recommendation? Boost regards, Greg Robertson '88 Lancer Shelby '89 LeBaron GTC convertible ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD A555 Lubrication??
A few years ago they announced a new formula and raised the price. The story is that when they lost the lawsuit against Castrol for labelling an oil that uses group III base a synthetic, Mobil 1 switched from a group IV base down to a group III as well. I still have some old stock of M1, but once that's gone I plan to switch to RP. They cost the same, retail. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 8/22/2007 3:51:23 P.M. Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: but since M1 is no longer a true synthetic anyway, it probably doesn't matter So who makes a 100% synthetic oil? When did Mobile 1 change? Steve ** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD A555 Lubrication??
This is an area of some debate, but the general consensus is to stick with 5w-30 dino juice or Redline MTL. M1 caused slightly reduced shifting performance for me, but since M1 is no longer a true synthetic anyway, it probably doesn't matter. Russ Chris VanKauwenberg wrote: The car is an 88' Shelby Z with a A555. What is the recommended lubrication for this transmission. I used to use 5w-30 in all of my previous Chrysler 5-speeds, and I'm wondering if that has changed as this is my first A555. If motor oil is the recommended lubricant, would Mobil 1 synthetic be the best choice? Thanks in advance any info. Chris[EMAIL PROTECTED] - Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD speed sensor mods??
The early 2-pin style is a dry contact next to a spinning round magnet. Round magnets have 8 poles, which means the contact closes 8 times per revolution. The pinion is geared to about 1000 rotations per mile, so that's 8000 pulses per mile. One side of the switch is grounded and the other is pulled to 5V by the ECU. When the switch closes, the signal goes low. The 3-pin style is an electronic hall-effect sensor replica of the 2-pin style. The output is the same (8000 pulses per mile). The 3rd pin is a 5 or 8V supply voltage. You can use the 3-pin style in a car with a 2-pin sensor by adding the extra supply line. The 8V feed to the HEP sensor is usually what is used. The only problem is that there is no version of the 3-pin style sensor that can accommodate a speedometer cable. More here: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/speedsensor.html Russ On Mon, 2007-05-28 at 23:56 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Not sure about your question, but I thought about buying one of this guys RPM window switches for the same thing... http://www.harlan-engineering.com/store/store.html I have one of his shift lights and it is awesome. He does very good work. Does anyone know how the speed sensor really works? Like is it a magnetic pulse, or is it like a mini voltage generator? I want to try to set up a 2 stage boost controller that is triggered by a certain speed off of the sensor. Anybody out there have any info to share? LMK Sean ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD CAM wanted and THANKS for the help everyone
It's the PCV. The valve closes in boost and the only way for the crankcase the ventilate is through the breather tube that was formally connected to your airbox. Blocking that off inflated the crankcase like a balloon and blew your seal out. Check all your seals, as the other cam seal and or the crankshaft seals may have also been pushed out. On Tue, 2006-08-22 at 22:51 -0700, robert long wrote: First of all I'd like to say thanks for the help in diagnosing my boost problem in the t2 rampage. I grounded the fuel rail and the charging code went away. I redid the vacuum lines now i have full boost. but something bad happed this morning. Let me begin by saying the stock airbox had been replace with a cone filter and the pcv now vents to atmosphere rather than to the airbox. My dad blocked the pcv hose with a plug. I boosted hard while racing a new mustang (blew his doors off) then as i was passing him all kinds of smoke came out of the engine. I MEAN ALLL KINDS OF SMOKE, LIKE YOU COULDN'T SEE FOR 1/2 MILE BEHIND ME I got home fearing the worst but found that the cam seal on the drivers side popped out (or maybe popped in, i can't tell) and oil went everywhere including on the turbo which smoked up the whole freeway. Does anyone think there is some kind of problem with valve guides or rings or was it just the pcv being blocked off? I did some diagnostics, checking the lower intercooler hose for oil inside, its dry and clean in there. I checked the coolant with engine running to see if I had a blown head gasket, everything looks OK no fountain of coolant gushing out (no oil in water and vice versa). I might want to put a better cam and followers in if anyone has them for sale since I have to take it all apart anyway. Any input apppreciated. Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam pr otection around http://mail.yahoo.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD CAM wanted and THANKS for the help everyone
Yeah, Gus would attach a piece of radiator hose to the tube and run it behind the trans until it was just below the K-frame. Lightly pack it with steel wool and put a small nail through the hose to hold it in. Then the oil drips on the ground instead of on your trans and you won't get that crankcase smell in the passenger compartment every time you have your foot in it for a while. The environmentally-friendly solution is a catch can with the other end connect back to the intake, as Andy mentioned. Russ andy b said: yep. I would check all the other seals for oil to make sure nothing else blew. Just leave the tube open. With mine I left the tube that went to the airbox and stuffed some steelwool in it and left it hanging there. If you want you can unplug the PCV and stick a tube to the VC and hook a catch can up to it. --- Russ W. Knize [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: It's the PCV. The valve closes in boost and the only way for the crankcase the ventilate is through the breather tube that was formally connected to your airbox. Blocking that off inflated the crankcase like a balloon and blew your seal out. Check all your seals, as the other cam seal and or the crankshaft seals may have also been pushed out. On Tue, 2006-08-22 at 22:51 -0700, robert long wrote: First of all I'd like to say thanks for the help in diagnosing my boost problem in the t2 rampage. I grounded the fuel rail and the charging code went away. I redid the vacuum lines now i have full boost. but something bad happed this morning. Let me begin by saying the stock airbox had been replace with a cone filter and the pcv now vents to atmosphere rather than to the airbox. My dad blocked the pcv hose with a plug. I boosted hard while racing a new mustang (blew his doors off) then as i was passing him all kinds of smoke came out of the engine. I MEAN ALLL KINDS OF SMOKE, LIKE YOU COULDN'T SEE FOR 1/2 MILE BEHIND ME I got home fearing the worst but found that the cam seal on the drivers side popped out (or maybe popped in, i can't tell) and oil went everywhere including on the turbo which smoked up the whole freeway. Does anyone think there is some kind of problem with valve guides or rings or was it just the pcv being blocked off? I did some diagnostics, checking the lower intercooler hose for oil inside, its dry and clean in there. I checked the coolant with engine running to see if I had a blown head gasket, everything looks OK no fountain of coolant gushing out (no oil in water and vice versa). I might want to put a better cam and followers in if anyone has them for sale since I have to take it all apart anyway. Any input apppreciated. Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam pr otection around http://mail.yahoo.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD electrical DRAIN problem (brainstorm needed)
[EMAIL PROTECTED] said: Hi Michael I've found the best way to find a drain is to disconnect the + cable from the battery (Neg would be fine also) and hook up a test light between the cable and the battery. The light should go on if you have a drain. With the light on, pull one fuse out at a time until the light goes off. As soon as the light goes off, you have found the circuit at fault. From there it's just a matter of figuring out what's wrong with that circuit. That part I can't tell you but it gets you in the ballpark. If you have an ammeter, it will work better if the drain is more subtle. Other than that, this procedure is the way to go. I had a shorted wire for my horn in the steering wheel give me problems once. The horn was on all the time. The problem was, the horn itself didn't work so you couldn't hear it, but the power was trying to go through it all the time. It's the horn relay. The wire in the the steering column shorts and the relay stays on all the time. Its draws around 100mA, IIRC. Usually it shorts at some point and if it happens in the middle of the night, the horn burns out (or the neighbors come knocking on the door). Otherwise people just yank the wire out of the horn to make it shut up, but don't know about the relay. I've had a couple of cars like this now. Didn't know it happened so often until my Shadow did it one night around 3am in the parking lot at our old apartment. I went down to leave for work around 8am and the horn was making the strangest noise (the battery was nearly dead). Several people yelled down at me all POed...heh. Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD WDYT: Price on repainting a car
Another thing to consider is that the factory paint wasn't all that great to begin with (in terms of the finish). They all had some orange peel, etc. If you do the prep yourself, you can save some coin. Put the money towards better paint. Pindell, Tim said: I had my GLHT painted with a custom mix and it cost me a touch over $1000. It wasn't a bad job, but it certainly wasn't show quality either. I could have easily thrown another $1000 at it. I didn't have any rust repair, major dents, or panel replacement, although I had the shop do all of the prep work. http://www.otterbein.edu/home/fac/tmtppndl/omni/dscn2100.jpg -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Weary Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 10:38 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD WDYT: Price on repainting a car WDYT = what do you think Taking location, and other details in mind... what do you think the price of doing a QUALITY paint job should cost ??? CAR: 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby (t-tops) CONDITION: BAD paint peel on hood and tops of fenders RUST: (2) very small spots BODY DENTS: few small areas COLOR: original black, repaint same black DETAILS: remove all ground effects, paint argent then re-install DETAILS (2): remove t-tops, paint items, install new seals Michael J. Weary AMSOIL dealer ZO505009 http://www.lubedealer.com/perfprod/ 1989 Daytona Shelby 1989 Shelby Dakota #315 _ FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar - get it now! http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING- --- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Still having W.O.T. fuel problems.
On Sat, 2006-04-15 at 17:14 -0700, Jarrod Walker wrote: I still haven't found the W.O.T. fuel problem. I swapped the TPS with one that I know works (I also checked the voltage range after it didn't change anything), changed the fuel filter, checked the pressure, added boost to make sure it rises approprietly,(I went a little over board and pushed it to 100 psi just to make sure it didn't plane out at 70 psi or anything) Did you do this just by pressurizing the regulator? If the fuel pump is tired or if there is some other fuel flow problem, this won't tell you a whole lot. You need to attach a fuel pressure guage with a longer hose so that you can clip it under a windshield wiper and watch the fuel pressure in realtime while you are driving it. the timing is right, I checked the injectors to make sure one's not leaking, also checked their part numbers to make sure they're the right injectors, I have no codes other than 34 which I was told is normal on CSX-T's, the vacuum lines are right, but after about 3-5 psi my A/F gauge goes from 6-7 bars to ZERO. The motor is fresh, and I'm out of stuff to check, so ANY ideas would be appreciated. Thank you.-Jarrod Another thing is a small crack in the vacuum line to the MAP sensor. It doesn't leak under vacuum or low boost, but blows open under high boost. These are easier to find by pumping up the vacuum line system through a check valve and watch for it to bleed down. It should hold pressure for a while. 88csx-T, intercooled, with a garret, adj. fuel pressure reg., 3 inch exhaust, and a KN, running 15 psi, with a zener diode on the MAP. What is the zener voltage that you are using? Have you tried removing it? If it is clamping too low, it will behave just as you describe. Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Ever break a roller cam?
One extra step I would do if it is a used cam is to install the camshaft without the followers and make sure it is not bent. It should turn evenly without binding. [EMAIL PROTECTED] said: David, I have seen this quite a few times working at the dealer and everyone broke in the same exact place, between the intake and exhaust lobe of the #1 cylinder. While I haven't seen it in a few years because of the decline of the 2.2 and 2.5 powered cars every once and a while it will pop up. A cam swap was all that was needed and the cars went back on the road. The first one got a new cam but after that they would come to me for a deal on a used cam for the car. You don't even need to change the followers, just the cam and you on your way. Hope this helps. Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 4/4/2006 9:15:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Last year my sister had her high mileage car break down for good and she was in need of a new daily driver. A local friend knew of a good deal on a 2.5 powered minivan so I thought it would be a dependable vehicle for her. I use one myself for m company minivan and it's been quite good with me. It's been pretty reliable thus far but recently she's been had an unusual problem that's been making her feel that it may be headed for a serious and expensive engine repair (which she can't afford since she was laid off recently). Last month without any prior warning signs it stalled out and wouldn't restart. I went to take a quick look at it for her and discovered it was a pretty simple problem, the timing belt had broken. Well that was common enough and it wasn't complicated or expensive to repair so I didn't feel it was an unusual. The repairs went fine and it was back on the road and running fine within days but what happened next I thought was real unusual. Again it stalled out and wouldn't restart. I pulled the inspection plug from the upper timing belt cover and the upper cam gear was turning so I knew the timing belt was turning. She had it towed to a shop where their immediate diagnosis was a blown head gasket. This made little sense to me since there was no warning signs and it had no history of or sudden last minute overheating or smoking. They said they ran a compression check and two cylinders were getting little to no pressure. I didn't feel that was the right diagnosis so she had a mechanic friend of hers work on it at his house. He somewhat agreed with their theory but when the head was pulled the head gasket looked perfect. Upon further inspection (which should have noticed once the valve cover was removed) he discovered that the roller cam had snapped between the area around the last 2 lobes. In a regular stock setup without extreme driving conditions I don't seem to recall seeing camshafts breaking like that. I supplied a decent 2.5 used roller cam that he reinstalled the head gasket cam and it's back to running normally. Someone told her that this was a sign that the bottom end of the motor would be going out soon and the engine was on borrowed time. I was thinking that the cam breakage was just a fluke and possibly due to stress caused by the timing belt breaking and wouldn't have a direct influence on the lower end of the engine. Has anybody had any experiences with camshafts snapping under routine driving? If so are they having other engine problems later? David Salamone Positive Impressions Jacksonville, Florida [EMAIL PROTECTED] 1982 Rampage (dual carb ongoing taking forever project show car) 1987 Shelby CSX #172 (awaiting front end bodywork, but with low miles) 1994 Voyager 2.5 (the company minivan, alive once again with another 2.5) 1979 Dodge Omni 1.7 (backup getaround car when other stuff breaks) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Timing Belt Issues
I would remove the belt and check the new tensioner to see if it is still any good. Either the belt is way too tight, the tensioner is no good, or a sprocket is not true. How did you set the tension? Russ Mike Fisher said: Here are some pics to go along with this. They are pretty large, but I didnt want to cut down the quality of them, so forgive me if you are on dial-up... http://greenbush.org/~mike.fisher/tensioner1.jpg http://greenbush.org/~mike.fisher/tensioner2.jpg http://greenbush.org/~mike.fisher/tensioner3.jpg http://greenbush.org/~mike.fisher/tensioner4.jpg Thanks! Mike Mike Fisher wrote: I have an 85 Shelby Charger. It has the standard square tooth timing belt setup. Last night, when I started tearing it down to do the T2 conversion, I found that the belt was chewed up on one side, and it was riding over the lip of the tensioner and was wearing into the timing belt cover. The rest of the belt looked fine, except for the outside 1/8 th of an inch. I just replaced the tensioner about a year ago, because I thought the bearing was going out in the old one. I got the new one from O'reilly's, and it is all plastic, compared to the metal one that was one if from the factory. I checked all of the pulleys for tightness, and they all seem to be snug and not moving. The oil pump/distributor shaft seems to have just a itty bitty bit of play, but I wouldn't think it would be enough to hurt anything. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD GLHS No crank
If the relay is clicking, the trans bolt ground should be fine. Do check the battery voltage when the key is in the start position. Beyond that, you need to check the relay and the starter solenoid contacts. First, make sure the car is in neutral! Then disconnect the starter relay, which is located on the driver's side strut tower. A diagram of the connector is here: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/electrical-powerfeeds.html#starterfeed Try to hot-wire the starter by connecting the wire that leads to the starter solenoid to the battery using a fairly heavy guage wire (like 14awg or bigger). It should be a brown wire. You should at least hear a fairly loud click from behind the block. If the engine cranks, then the relay is probably the problem (or the wire from the relay to the starter). If the solenoid clicks, but doesn't crank, then the solenoid contact is shot or the starter isn't getting power from the big 12V primary from the battery. If you get no click, then the solenoid is bad. Hope this helps, Russ On Wed, 2006-01-11 at 19:25 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: And/or make sure you have a good battery that's charged. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Garret Werstiuk Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 2:50 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: SD GLHS No crank Sand off the brass eyelet that is bolted to the transmission then reapply it Garret Werstiuk http://shelbyz.cjb.net From: Christopher Steffee [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD GLHS No crank Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 13:53:43 -0800 (PST) 1987 GLHS all underhood wiring replaced. I checked all of it for cracks, breaks, charred places...everything. Everything works now; headlights, taillights, horn, etc...except the starter. Turn the key to on low oil light, brake light come on, gas gauge comes up, fuel pump pumps. Turn to start and the relay clicks but nothing else. The cable to the brand new starter is fine. I checked the wiring harnesses very carefully before installing them. Am I missing something here? I haven't changed out either the power mod or the logic module. Anybody with an idea? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD LM wacky?
Sounds like grounds to me. On the 87, all of the electronics ground at a single point: the fuel rail bolt. There are two grounds here that both go to the logic module: the power ground (usually black) and the signal ground (black with a tan stripe). On the way, they pass through the fuel rail connector. Since they carry so much load and are exposed to so much heat, often the contacts in this connector get corroded or burnt up. The signal ground goes through a conditioning circuit in the logic module and then goes to all of the sensors and such that need it (black wire with light blue stripe). Check the air temp sensor voltage again, but connect the negative terminal to the signal ground wire instead. If you measure 5V, then you have a grounding problem. The LM's ground is floating 2-3 volts above battery ground, and that is why the alternator is overcharging it. The path from the fuel rail bolt to the negative battery terminal is mainly through the cylinder head. Clean and tighten that large ground at the front corner of the head. The other path is the ground strap from the back of the intake manifold to the firewall. Check that as well. The ground at the head should be able to carry the load, but sometimes the splice in the front engine harness falls apart. That ground, the ground from the alternator, and the ground from the battery meet at this splice. [EMAIL PROTECTED] said: Hi All I'm tring to pin down a bucking-stalling problem with my 87 Shelby Lancer. Here's a recap I got the car with a bad engine so I've never driven it. I installed a new rebuilt 2.2 long block from Mother (Dodge) and swapped over all the stuff, sensors etc. The old owner had put a external regulater on it. I thought maybe it had a bad power mod. so I cleaned up the wiring and removed the reg. started the car and the volts went to 18+ OK now I see why he installed the reg. I then put in a PM from my GLHS and bingo the volts hit 18+ so now I'm thinking its the LM. I also checked the volts to the air temp. sensor and it was 7+ volts (key on car not running). On the GLHS its about 5 on the Minimopar site I read it should be about 5. Also with the key on car not running the A.I.S. is doing its thing (tick-tick-tick-click-click)moving in or out. I was thinking the over charging zapped the LM and is going wacky? I did order a MoparPerfomance LM and when I get it I hope it will fix the over charging and the bucking. Anything I should check? Thanks Roy 81 X 1/9 86 GLHS Shelby #200 87 Shelby Lancer #781 5sp cloth ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Re: A/C help
Some folks have had reasonable luck with R134. The fact is that our systems weren't designed for it. Besides the H-valve, you need a compressor in above average shape and a really efficient condensor setup. The head pressure needs to be quite high to get the efficiency where it needs to be. and our Denso compressors barely survive as it is. In any case, you need to flush that system out well and replace the filter/drier. Otherwise the new compressor will suffer from the black death from the junk left behind by the other dead compressor. When you do have it flushed, you have the choice to switch to whatever you want. [EMAIL PROTECTED] said: Stick with the r 12. I changed mine over, it sucks. I replaced the h block, with one for 134, and replaced the dryer, it cools enough that i dont die when its raining, but i could run it at full blast all day without feeling cool enough. I want to change over to duracool, or back to r 12. I dont care if its more expensive. I want cold air. My 86 still has r12, it will freeze you out. On hot days, I have had to roll a window down to warm up again. My 90 Daytona shelby A/C compressor is so hard to turn when it gets hot,that it trys to stall the engine.I bought a new mopar compressor and dryer. Should I put R12 back in or change it over to 134? I have enough R12 thats no problem.Car only has 11,000 original miles on it. Thanks Steve Joey Dalton Hillbilly Racing 86 Turbo Z C/S T Tops DC intercooled 87 Shelby Z parts car =( T Tops, Fred Flinstone floors, broken rad support and cracked front subframe. 88 Shelby Z Pacifica/lebaron interior, 3.85 FD a523 with HR short throw shifter, TAFT S2 cam, 20 PSI, Hillbilly exahust 88 Chrysler Shelby Z T tops 89 Daytona C/S compitition 66 Dodge Charger 76 Dodge D 100 318/auto 51 Studebaker Champion 4 doorfuture father/son project, will be 355 EFI HEMI ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD re: Burning CDs
Just some thoughts I've been burning CDs since the late 90s when the first 1x burners finally breached the $300 barrier (they were coaster-makers). Over the years I've found that many CD players, especially really old ones don't like certain brand CDs. In fact, every time I've tried Memorex CD-Rs (last time was about a year ago) they give me fits. If it's not manufacturing defects, then it's that they won't play in my OLD CD player in my basement. People will tell me they work fine and I try them again, only to be disappointed. For reasons I don't fully understand, I've had the best luck with the old Verbatim blue backs. They are dark blue on the bottom instead of blue-green like the Maxell, Fuji, and some other brands I have tried. They skipped less than many of the regular pressed CDs in my CSX (I finally junked that Sony CD player). There is only one person I know of that could not play them in her car. I then shelled out a few more coins for some audio-specific CD-Rs and those worked for her. They are almost silver with a slight gold tinge, instead of the slight green tinge all the high speed CDRs have today. Also burning them more slowly seems to help, as has been suggested. I burn these 48x-rated CD at 8x, which is the max burning speed of the blue-backs that I had so much luck with before (I can no longer find them). Of course, your player may just need some attention as well and EMMV (everyone's mileage may vary ;). Russ Joe Goetz said: I've found that clear aluminum CDs (i.e. Memorex CD-Rs) seem to work better than some of the blue ones like the Maxell CD-Rs. Some head units just need silver aluminum, not blue Theory being perhaps the blue takes burning better or cleaner...but I can't get them to play on my old home CD, my Alpine or Chrysler car players. The new generation CD/DVD in the basement plays them OK but takes a lng time to register the tracks and start playing. -- Joe Goetz, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Frederick, MD, USA ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD 86 GLHT: idles off a bit, dies after revving/loading engine
Clay, There might be an issue with the minimum air adjustment. Try blasting out the TB with TB cleaner to see if that helps. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/idleproblems.html It could also be a sluggish AIS motor. Cleaning the TB may help that too, but you can also remove it and see of it moves freely when voltage is applied. Sometimes the bushings on the motor get corroded. Speed sensor issues are more noticeable when engine-braking. What happens if you engine brake and then put the clutch in? If it dies, try it again, but leave the clutch out until just the last moment (say 500 RPM). If it keeps running, I'd look at the speed sensor cables again. Make sure the contact aren't oily. Bending the contacts tighter on the plug helps. Russ On Tue, 2005-07-05 at 21:58 -0500, Clay Cooke wrote: How is this for instant feedback! ;) Went out and basically jumpered new vacuum line direct from the MAP to the manifold. Still have the same problem. :( Thanks though! clay - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Clay Cooke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2005 9:35 PM Subject: Re: SD 86 GLHT: idles off a bit, dies after revving/loading engine Clay, While I am by no means an expert, it sounds like you might have a vacuum leak going to the MAP sensor. That will greatly affect idle, cause stalling, and usually doesn't throw a code. It least it's east to check and cheap to fix. Just the kind of repairs you want to have if you have to have them at all. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD 1990 T1 Voyager No Spark (Update)
A code 11 simply means that the ECU has not seen a single pulse from the HEP since the last time the battery was connected. Everything you have said points to no HEP signal (ASD pulse at powerup, no 12V at the coil during cranking, etc). Swap the HEP for starters, then verify the ground (black with light blue stripe) and 7.5V feed (orange) when the ignition is on. Russ On Sun, 2005-05-01 at 11:44 -0700, Thomas Moss wrote: I checked out the Voyager yesterday and the body and interior are in good shape. There are 170,000 miles on the Van, but it appears to have been taken care of for at least most of its life. The van was supposedly running until the Alternator went out, but when I asked them how long it has been sitting, they said about 8 months. Okay, except that the registration expired in August of 2000...H! I also noticed that the Oil, Tranny fluid and Antifreeze all appeared to have been changed recently...Hmmm Again! Also, all of the new parts he put on looked older than the rest of the van. The alternator is used but clean, and he said that it was a rebuilt one. All of the other parts he said were new. I think he went to the U-Pull-It for new parts to try to get it running. I suspect that he got it at an auction, couldn't get it running, and is now trying to pass it off to someone else. At least the price is right! I worked on it for 2 hours yesterday trying to get it to fire with no luck. There is no spark coming from the coil. I unhooked the coil wire from the distributor and held the end near the block and cranked it over with no spark at all. I even ran a wire directly from the battery to the + terminal of the coil with no luck. The ASD relay seems to be working, since I can hear the injectors come on when the key is on. I did notice, however that when the key is turned to crank, it briefly gets +12V at the + terminal of the coil, then quickly dies down. Doesn't the coil need a constant +12V in order to fire? Resistance across the coil terminals is 1.8 ohms, so I would expect it to be good. Is there any way to check for a spark from the coil itself without the coil wire on? There could be an open in the coil wire, and I would like to eliminate this possibility. The computer appears to be good (by which I mean that I can retrieve codes). The codes are 12, then 11, then 55. The 12 and 55 I expected, but I can't recall what an 11 is. I'm also not sure why I got 11 after 12. I checked it 3 times with the same results. I was also unable to locate the ASD relay, since I can't find my Haynes manual and it has been a few years since I last worked on a Turbo Dodge. I was going to follow the green/black wire from the coil + terminal to the relay, but the + terminal has what looks like a faded light green (maybe used to be yellow?) wire on it. The - terminal has a black/green wire, but the wire terminals have a flat spot that coincides with a flat spot on the coil terminals so they can only be installed on one terminal anyway. Of the 4 relays on the driver's side fender, none of them have a red/white wire going into them. Does anybody have any further ideas on narrowing this down any further? At this point, my prime suspect is the coil, but I want to check if there is supposed to be a steady +12V at the + terminal when cranking and if the coil wires sound like they are hooked up correctly (is there a better way to check this without unwrapping all of the wire bundles and following the wire?). Are there any other things that I can check? Thanks, Tom __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD P body power windows
My 87 and 88 P-bodies did not have the plastic tape and tracks either. They have a long metal arm, just like a manual crank window with a motor at the base. [EMAIL PROTECTED] said: I searched over 50 dodge Shadow/Sundance/Dusters for a 2 door with power windows but only found them in converibles. Those don't look like they'd work because they have weird windows and no tracks in the doors. Does anyone know if 4 door power window regulators will fit a 2 door? Could a Daytona power window setup fit a Shadow? Does anyone have any Shadow ones for sale? Thanks Jamie ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD pay pal
The other trick is common password among your various logins. At minimum, you need 3 or 4 different passwords. Weak ones can be used on untrusted sites that you don't really care about. Strong ones for important things like banking (PayPal included). For instance, if the password you use on your email account with your provider matches your eBay password, an attacker can change your eBay account and intercept the confirmation emails so that you are non the wiser. Email authentication is generally cleartext, so even if it is a strong password, they can still sniff it. Things like PayPal, your bank, etc need strong *UNIQUE* passwords so that if any one is compromised, it doesn't open you up completely. Russ Mike Fisher said: My guess is a weak password. There are tons of hackers out there looking for weak passwords all the time. You should always at the minimum have at least 8 characters, lower and upper case, with numerics in there somewhere. Never use you birthday or wifes name or your favorite pets name or any name for that matter. Heres a good example of a semi-strong password - Rd4t5K9o. This is just random, but hard to crack. Marc Medina wrote: Some details on how you were defrauded would help us all. Thanks, Marc Medina http://www.geocities.com/mcm95403 - Original Message - From: Codered Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 1:46 PM Subject: SD pay pal To all, I had over a grand taken out of my checking account from Russia. The bank traced it back to pay pal. So please Donot trust paypal! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Wireing diagram for 60 way conn, SBEC
Don't have the T1 table up yet, but this should get you most of the way. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/ecu/sbec-1990-tbi.html Matt Ginger said: Thats what I thought, I sent t back, it checks out. He dropped it in his car and it fired right up, lean as hell(I have +40s he has +20s) but it ran. He then pulled it apart and checked it, its all set. That was my initial thought, what I really eed are power's, grounds's and where all the fuseable links are. Sucks, but I got to do it. Thanks for the reply, M Paul Gebhardt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'd guess the computer died. - Original Message - 90 caravan 5 speed(factory568), I have a custom cal, it ran for a couple hundred miles and quit. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.8.1 - Release Date: 3/23/2005 - Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses. - Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Map Sensor Solenoid
That solenoid is sold as an assambly with the MAP sensor, if I remember correctly. Steven Fong said: I had posted this part number request previously, and Barry Goodall and others replied, but I am still trying to find the part number of the MAP sensor solenoid for a 1988 Daytona Shelby Z, T2 . I was given a part number of 5227333, which is the dual vacuum solenoid set up and it arrived today. Wrong one. I am trying to find the single solenoid that is connected to the MAP sensor. I took the old one off the car and there si no part number. Has anyone purchased one of these recently, and can provide a part number. Thanks in advance Steve ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD RE: WTB: Omni Charger Or Daytona
Yes, the Daytona is a pickup truck with a glass tonneau cover. Bill Brown said: Hey Adam All three are hatchbacks, that throws that deciding factor out the window. Omnis have cheaper interiors, but are lighter then Daytona's and looks are subjective. That is probably more the deciding factore unless stock performance is important. Bill -- Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2005 06:39:45 -0800 (PST) From: adam deconte [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD WTB: Omni Charger Or Daytona ok guys the time has comeim just looking into it for the moment but will be buying a omni charger or daytona soon. i got into an accident with my civic so its out with the old and in with the older haha. well i want a dodge omni, dodge charger, or dodge daytona that is reliable transportation, turbo, 5 speed, and located close to pennsylvaniaprefer under 150,000 miles and around $1000 willing to go up to $1500 maybe more if the car seems worth it. just seeing wut everyone has to offer and im gonna shop around for a while till i decide on wut im gonna get...leaning more torwards an omni cuz i want another hatchback. TIA adam Adam DeConte [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=398247page=1 - - ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Re: 8v performance head
Steve will do whatever work you want done. That price is for his old RP Stage II package, IIRC. On Tue, 2004-12-28 at 19:23 -0800, andy b wrote: Steve Menegon is the only other guy I know of that does quality head work. People on TD.com really do consider his work to be some of the best out there... Although Todd seems to be a bit more affordable. $800 seems to be a pretty awesome deal. Steve's cheapest deal is 1100-1200 I think... I was really suprised that no one on the sdml knew about steve and that no one on td.com knew about Todd... --- Paul T. Standaert [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Yes, Todd is the man. Really good, clean, smooth and benchflowed porting work. Highly recommended. Is there a better ported/big valve head built by someone else? Probably. But at that point you should seriously consider going 16 valve or pay a lot more money. You will not find anyone else more reasonable. - Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - 250MB free storage. Do more. Manage less. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD 85-87 power module pin-out?
Sometimes a plea for help is what it takes to get me off my laurels. The power module and SMEC pinouts and descriptions are now available. I also updated the logic module pages a bit as well to help with some confusion. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/ecu/index.html Russ Mullikin, Stefan P said: http://minimopar.net -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Neil E. Amrhein Sent: Monday, December 06, 2004 8:51 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD 85-87 power module pin-out? List, Does anyone have a resource showing what each of the pins on the power module does? Specifically, I am interested in the middle pin of the top row (when mounted in the car) of the 10-pin connector. The wiring in my GLHS was repaired prior to my buying it and I am trying to fix things properly. I checked minimopar, but I did not find this information. Thanks, Neil ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD instrument panel dead?
Check and clean both instrument panel grounds. They are on the bracket that mounts the panel to the body just in front of the doors on both sides. Also check that the bolts that mount the backets to the body are tight. Could also be an ignition key or some kind of power feed issue. John Mearns said: I have an 88 Daytona T1, for a long time the odometer has been dead. Everything else worked and I didn't worry about it. Yesterday on the way to work my speedometer dropped to zero sometimes, and sometimes came back on. The tach was working the entire time so I figured maybe there was something wrong with the speedometer. When I left work though the voltmeter dropped to zero (14v with engine on across battery), speedo was gone, and everything else including gas and tach froze. Sometimes for a few seconds everything would come back on along with the seatbelt light and chimes. Any ideas what it could be? I was thinking like maybe ignition switch but that doesn't make much sense with the tach working on the way to work. I took the cluster out a while back to try another one to see if that fixed the odometer and it didnt, but while it was out I cleaned all the contacts and greased them with dielectric. Whole cluster dead maybe? Thanks all! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Lubricants and Lubricant Additives (WAS: castrol oil)
If you Google for the Lucas stuff, you will find the answer. In short, the surface agents they add can cause serious aeration problems. My Uncle was a Prolong junkie. He is in construction and used it in his high mileage trucks. There were no ill effects, though the engines did wear out anyway. In one case, he put a reman shortblock in and spun the bearings. Put in a second one, spun the bearings. He told me the story as he was installing the 3rd. I recommended just using cheap, regular oil for the first few 100 miles and stay off the Prolong until afterwards. May have just been a coincedence, but the 3rd engine was fine. He never bothered using Prolong again, to my knowledge. The other stuff tends to increase viscosity to stop leaks and such. Anything with solids in it that are supposed to fill in gaps seems like it would cause more wear than anything. Plus, your oil filter would see to it that they are eventually removed. In fact, a worn engine should have very smooth cylinder walls and rings. They are just worn out. I hate infomercials. It seems like if these compounds were so effective, they would have found their way into the oil by now. The oil additive business is big bux, it seems. Jason Arroyo said: Alright, while we are on the subject of lubricants, I might as well ask some general opinions on some related products. First off is Lucas Oil Treatment. We've all been sitting at the parts counter waiting for our turn, and playing with the little crank and plastic gears, watching the two sides distribute oil, and of course the Lucas side carries more oil up the gears (it appears). Has anyone read or heard of any independent testing done with this, or any explanation in detail from Lucas as to why it works well? Is this worth buying? I've ran it before but not for very long before selling the car, and I have no idea how it helps. Then there's Prolong. We've all seen the infomercials where they ran the Viper on the road course (wasn't it Laguna Seca?) after filling it with oil and a bottle of Prolong, running it for a bit, then draining it completely and driving around the track for some time, in the hot August california heat. Meanwhile they drain the oil out of a Prolong-infused Prism or something, and drive it all around town. Then they show you some torque tester on a couple bolts. Is this stuff for real? I hear it bloats your seals up and causes them to fail sooner. They make a transmission additive too. Then there's Engine Restore, and it comes in a silver paper canister (or used to last I checked), and supposedly fills in the scratches and other imperfections in old, tired cyllinders, and restores compression. Sounds a bit iffy to me. STP makes something similar to Engine Restore. Anyways, since we're low on topics and we've brought up oil, I thought it'd be nice to discuss this. I'm sure it's been mentioned before but perhaps only by one or the other product, not the general whole of them. FWIW, I run Castrol GTX in my Z. It's a high mileage old engine. If I were to rebuild it, I'd probably run Redline. Their transmission fluid cured 95% of my missed shifts and griding in my DSM tranny. I would imagine their engine lubricants are also pretty impressive. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD coolant pipe crush washer
If you are referring to the bronze bushing that sits inside the pipe (and likes to fall out), I think you will find that it seals just fine without it. Paul T. Standaert said: Y'all know that metal coolant pipe that bolts to the bottom of the thermostat housing? Originally there is a crush washer in there, but I am having uber difficulties finding one without going to the junk yard. The dealer says it is NS1. But they still have the pipe itself available!! Should I try another dealer/parts person? - Do you Yahoo!? Check out the new Yahoo! Front Page. www.yahoo.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Re: dual engine
They should tighten up again. The problem is that damage may have occured while rolling the car with loose bearings. It depends how much weight was on them (no engine?) and how far it was rolled. You'll know within the first few weeks of driving it if you killed the bearings. [EMAIL PROTECTED] said: no idea. I never said it couldnt be done, just that they sold new hubs. Maybe it was mostly just to convert the wheel pattern? With a RWD pattern in the rear, you would want to convert the front if you wanted to have the wheels match. Maybe he did like the other guy here said, and put the end of an axle in there? I towed 2 of my cars 5 miles, with no axles in them, when I moved recently. The wheel bearings are loose in the hubs of both cars. Ive done that many times before, however, for longer distances, with no problems. I had never known it was bad for it, until it happened a couple of months ago, even then I didnt know why, till it was said on here. Now Im wondering if I will have to replace the hubs/bearings, or If they will tighten up again when I install axles? Anyone know? Joey ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD 91 Dodge Daytona Headlight Woes
Probably a relay. There should be a large palette of relays under the dash. Not sure if they are marked. If not, you'll need a wiring diagram. [EMAIL PROTECTED] said: Good Morning to You All!, I need some advice as to what is causing my problems. I have a 91 Dodge Daytona that seems to be having more and more issues with the headlights. It used to be every once in a while I would have problems getting my headlights to come on I would hit the button a couple of times and Walla, lights. Then it was happening more frequently most notably after the car was warm. The lights would pop-up but they wouldn't work in low beam, I turn on high beams and I get lights. Now I can't get them to pop up at all and they will once I hit the high beams. All the other lights work, side markers, parking, etc but the headlights refuse to work until I hit the high beams. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks in advance, Mike Clark ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD RE:
The digital dash uses the signal from the speed sensor. Check the sensor and/or wiring and replace as necessary. Jason Arroyo said: From: Rob P [EMAIL PROTECTED] From: Jason Arroyo [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD My poor '86 Laser Turbo has seen better days... 4. This car has a digital dash (I think it looks really cool), but the speedo goes all over the place. What can you guys tell me about these dashes? I only have experience with the analogs. I would like to keep a digital dash in this car if feasable. What is the max MPH these can display? Are there problems associated with these digital dashes? Anyone have one that works, or know how or who to fix mine? Digital dash reads to 199. It wasn't regulated to 85 mph hour like the analog because the point behind that regulation was that if people saw a speed over 85 they would be encouraged to drive over 85. Want to scare your friends? Don't tell them and switch to metric. There are still people out there that will swear that I got my bone stock '85 Laser TI up to 173. I just told them I had some work done. That's pretty cool :) But presently mine reads 0 sometimes when I am driving, and at other times, has some obsurd number like 85 when I am going 30... It just fluctuates like something is wrong... Maybe the speedo cable is having a prob, and the digital dah itself is just fine? Anyone with advice, please share. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo with iNsAnE DIGITAL Dash 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD engine tick, and oil problems. please help
In terms of parts availibility, the big thing that the A523/A568 have over the A525/A520/A555 in my opinion is that the main shaft on the newer trannies have an inner bearing race on the pinion gear side. The earlier trannies do not. This means that when the main shaft pinion bearing goes, it takes the shaft out with it (actually the opposite seems to happen from what I have seen, the shaft end falls apart due to surface fatigue and chunks of shaft destroy the bearings). Since you can't get a new A520/A555 main shaft from Mopar, once yours goes it's all over unless you find a good used one. Even if you do, don't expect it to last long. [EMAIL PROTECTED] said: In a message dated 9/30/2004 6:08:57 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: The relationship of the A568 and A523 are similar as the relationship of the A555 to the A520. Same cases, but the 555 and the 568 received slightly stronger pieces. The 523 though is probably as strong as the 555 just due to its improved design. The 523 came in around 90, the same time as the 568. The parts will be hard to get either way, but the newer trannys will likely last longer due to being slightly newer with stronger parts (that are actually shared with the early Neon transaxles) TTYL, Stefan Basically the way I heard it was the 568 came in the larger body styles and the higher output turbo cars to make up for the weight.. ( I assume) the 523 were for the lighter cars like Shadow/Sundance turbo vs. non turbo also made a difference in final drive ratio.. to use one of these transmissions in a 555/520 equipped vehicle requires the use of newer axels (I believe) and the shifter and shifters cables to this to work properly.. I think this is a direct swap if im not mistaken? To use these in an L body requires a little more ingenuity and a BFH!.. ;) Chris Pauluk - Modesto CA - NorCalTurboDodge 84 Rampage - _www.cardomain.com/id/pentastarturbo_ (http://www.cardomain.com/id/pentastarturbo) (or) _www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage_ (http://www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage) --._.-*-._.-*- GROUP BUY -*-._.-*-._.-- L body 2 door car truck (ie; Charger, Rampage body styles, ect.) *1979 - 1987* FULL A pillar trim replacement w/integrated dual 2-1/16 gauge housing pods _http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showpost.php?p=471503postcount=9_ (http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showpost.php?p=471503postcount=9) Contact me privately @ [EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) if interested... ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Power Steering Pump ?'s UPDATE
It's not something like you are using the ZF pump on an S bracket or vice versa? [EMAIL PROTECTED] said: Well I looked at the car last night... the mounting bracket is bolted to the block nice and tight, and it's still way off. I got a belt on it,was straight on contact but twisted between the pulleys and when I started the car, is came right off. I'm going to try and put a different pump and bracket tomorrow and see if that helps since I have a few of them around. Any other Ideas? Matt Colwell 86 T-Top Turbo~Z 86 Turbo~Z Project: Daytona 87 Shadow ES 90 Regal GS 02 S~10 4X4 ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD factory carpet for daytonas
There are 3 manufacturers that I have seen. The two that I have used are Newark Auto and ACS. ACS is more expensive and the product was EXACTLY the same as Newark's. Same material, same paddings, same skid pad on the driver's side. Overall, the quality is decent (get the cut pile) and the fit is okay. I have had a Newark Auto carpet in my CSX for the past six years and it has held up fine so far. I did buy some additional padding to supplement what was provided. I can't remember the name of the third vendor. Do a search in the Interior forum on turbododge.com. Russ [EMAIL PROTECTED] said: Does anyone know if dodge still carries the factory charcoal carpet for an 89 daytona shelby?If not,where can I buy the factory carpet? My carpet is shot,so I took it out.I also weighed it along with the insulation material and it weighed 28 lbs if anyone`s thinking about lightening their car. TRAVIS FOSTER,GREENVILLE,S.C. 89 daytona shelby,black t2 ,[EMAIL PROTECTED] with 2.45 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ]FS 8k , 71 `Cuda 383 stock [EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) , 98 GC 5.9 limited [EMAIL PROTECTED]@90_ (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]@90) ,2000 YUKON XL fs or trade? ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD need a mechanic in Dallas, TX ASAP
Did you check your O2 sensor harness for shorts against the turbo? andy b said: I am having electrical problems with my CSXT. The fusalbe link to my ASD keeps on going out. I was wondering if any one knew of a good auto electrician in the Dallas area. Please let me know asap since this is my only car and I need to get to TN soon. Thanks __ Do you Yahoo!? Y! Messenger - Communicate in real time. Download now. http://messenger.yahoo.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD Recommend cheap quality coil
A misfire will make the A/F guage show lean for an instant, due to the presence of unused oxygen. To help you figure out if weak spark is the issue, gap down your plugs. Brian Schulteis said: Hey guys.. I think I figured out my problem with my new intercooled setup at WOT. The engine actually misfired over 4500rpm at WOT today. Normally it just smoothly falls on it's face up there. So I think it's a coil problem, not getting enough spark for the higher combustion pressures it's running now. I don't think it was running lean as the last light on my AF gauge was blinking while this was happening, indicating it was plenty rich. So what's a good coil to replace my 16yr old factory one with? I'd like to keep it relatively cheap, otherwise I'd get the nice MSD6al or something of that sort. But on the same hand, I don't want to just pick up some made in china knockoff coil with 100kv written on it, yet can't perform as well as this one does. Thanks. Brian - Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html Thanks, Russ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
