A misfire will make the A/F guage show lean for an instant, due to the
presence of unused oxygen. To help you figure out if weak spark is the
issue, gap down your plugs.
Brian Schulteis said:
Hey guys.. I think I figured out my problem with my new intercooled setup
at WOT. The engine actually
Did you check your O2 sensor harness for shorts against the turbo?
andy b said:
I am having electrical problems with my CSXT. The
fusalbe link to my ASD keeps on going out. I was
wondering if any one knew of a good auto electrician
in the Dallas area.
Please let me know asap since this is my
There are 3 manufacturers that I have seen. The two that I have used are
Newark Auto and ACS. ACS is more expensive and the product was EXACTLY
the same as Newark's. Same material, same paddings, same skid pad on the
driver's side.
Overall, the quality is decent (get the cut pile) and the fit
It's not something like you are using the ZF pump on an S bracket or vice
versa?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
Well I looked at the car last night... the mounting bracket is bolted to
the block nice and tight, and it's still way off. I got a belt on it,was
straight on contact but twisted between the
The digital dash uses the signal from the speed sensor. Check the sensor
and/or wiring and replace as necessary.
Jason Arroyo said:
From: Rob P [EMAIL PROTECTED]
From: Jason Arroyo [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: SD My poor '86 Laser Turbo has seen better days... 4. This
car has a digital dash (I
In terms of parts availibility, the big thing that the A523/A568 have over
the A525/A520/A555 in my opinion is that the main shaft on the newer
trannies have an inner bearing race on the pinion gear side. The earlier
trannies do not. This means that when the main shaft pinion bearing goes,
it
Probably a relay. There should be a large palette of relays under the
dash. Not sure if they are marked. If not, you'll need a wiring diagram.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
Good Morning to You All!,
I need some advice as to what is causing my problems. I have a 91 Dodge
Daytona that seems to
They should tighten up again. The problem is that damage may have occured
while rolling the car with loose bearings. It depends how much weight was
on them (no engine?) and how far it was rolled. You'll know within the
first few weeks of driving it if you killed the bearings.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
If you are referring to the bronze bushing that sits inside the pipe (and
likes to fall out), I think you will find that it seals just fine without
it.
Paul T. Standaert said:
Y'all know that metal coolant pipe that bolts to the bottom of the
thermostat housing? Originally there is a crush
If you Google for the Lucas stuff, you will find the answer. In short,
the surface agents they add can cause serious aeration problems.
My Uncle was a Prolong junkie. He is in construction and used it in his
high mileage trucks. There were no ill effects, though the engines did
wear out
Sometimes a plea for help is what it takes to get me off my laurels. The
power module and SMEC pinouts and descriptions are now available. I also
updated the logic module pages a bit as well to help with some confusion.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/ecu/index.html
Russ
Mullikin, Stefan P
Check and clean both instrument panel grounds. They are on the bracket
that mounts the panel to the body just in front of the doors on both
sides. Also check that the bolts that mount the backets to the body are
tight.
Could also be an ignition key or some kind of power feed issue.
John Mearns
Steve will do whatever work you want done. That price is for his old RP
Stage II package, IIRC.
On Tue, 2004-12-28 at 19:23 -0800, andy b wrote:
Steve Menegon is the only other guy I know of that
does quality head work. People on TD.com really do
consider his work to be some of the best out
Yes, the Daytona is a pickup truck with a glass tonneau cover.
Bill Brown said:
Hey Adam
All three are hatchbacks, that throws that deciding factor out the window.
Omnis have cheaper interiors, but are lighter then Daytona's and looks are
subjective. That is probably more the deciding
That solenoid is sold as an assambly with the MAP sensor, if I remember
correctly.
Steven Fong said:
I had posted this part number request previously, and Barry Goodall and
others replied,
but I am still trying to find the part number of the MAP sensor solenoid
for a 1988 Daytona Shelby Z, T2
Don't have the T1 table up yet, but this should get you most of the way.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/ecu/sbec-1990-tbi.html
Matt Ginger said:
Thats what I thought, I sent t back, it checks out. He dropped it in his
car and it fired right up, lean as hell(I have +40s he has +20s) but it
The other trick is common password among your various logins. At minimum,
you need 3 or 4 different passwords. Weak ones can be used on untrusted
sites that you don't really care about. Strong ones for important things
like banking (PayPal included). For instance, if the password you use on
My 87 and 88 P-bodies did not have the plastic tape and tracks either.
They have a long metal arm, just like a manual crank window with a motor
at the base.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
I searched over 50 dodge Shadow/Sundance/Dusters for a 2 door with power
windows but only found them in
A code 11 simply means that the ECU has not seen a single pulse from the
HEP since the last time the battery was connected. Everything you have
said points to no HEP signal (ASD pulse at powerup, no 12V at the coil
during cranking, etc). Swap the HEP for starters, then verify the
ground (black
Clay,
There might be an issue with the minimum air adjustment. Try blasting
out the TB with TB cleaner to see if that helps.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/idleproblems.html
It could also be a sluggish AIS motor. Cleaning the TB may help that
too, but you can also remove it and see of it
Just some thoughts
I've been burning CDs since the late 90s when the first 1x burners finally
breached the $300 barrier (they were coaster-makers). Over the years I've
found that many CD players, especially really old ones don't like certain
brand CDs. In fact, every time I've tried Memorex
Some folks have had reasonable luck with R134. The fact is that our
systems weren't designed for it. Besides the H-valve, you need a
compressor in above average shape and a really efficient condensor setup.
The head pressure needs to be quite high to get the efficiency where it
needs to be.
Sounds like grounds to me. On the 87, all of the electronics ground at a
single point: the fuel rail bolt. There are two grounds here that both go
to the logic module: the power ground (usually black) and the signal
ground (black with a tan stripe). On the way, they pass through the fuel
rail
If the relay is clicking, the trans bolt ground should be fine. Do
check the battery voltage when the key is in the start position.
Beyond that, you need to check the relay and the starter solenoid
contacts. First, make sure the car is in neutral! Then disconnect the
starter relay, which is
I would remove the belt and check the new tensioner to see if it is still
any good. Either the belt is way too tight, the tensioner is no good, or
a sprocket is not true. How did you set the tension?
Russ
Mike Fisher said:
Here are some pics to go along with this. They are pretty large, but
One extra step I would do if it is a used cam is to install the camshaft
without the followers and make sure it is not bent. It should turn evenly
without binding.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
David,
I have seen this quite a few times working at the dealer and everyone
broke
in the same exact
On Sat, 2006-04-15 at 17:14 -0700, Jarrod Walker wrote:
I still haven't found the W.O.T. fuel problem. I swapped the TPS with one
that I know works (I also checked the voltage range after it didn't change
anything), changed the fuel filter, checked the pressure, added boost to
make sure it
Another thing to consider is that the factory paint wasn't all that great
to begin with (in terms of the finish). They all had some orange peel,
etc. If you do the prep yourself, you can save some coin. Put the money
towards better paint.
Pindell, Tim said:
I had my GLHT painted with a custom
[EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
Hi Michael
I've found the best way to find a drain is to disconnect the + cable from
the battery (Neg would be fine also) and hook up a test light between the
cable and the battery. The light should go on if you have a drain. With
the light on, pull one fuse out at
It's the PCV. The valve closes in boost and the only way for the
crankcase the ventilate is through the breather tube that was formally
connected to your airbox. Blocking that off inflated the crankcase like
a balloon and blew your seal out. Check all your seals, as the other
cam seal and or
else blew. Just leave the tube open. With
mine I left the tube that went to the airbox and
stuffed some steelwool in it and left it hanging
there. If you want you can unplug the PCV and stick a
tube to the VC and hook a catch can up to it.
--- Russ W. Knize [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It's
The early 2-pin style is a dry contact next to a spinning round magnet.
Round magnets have 8 poles, which means the contact closes 8 times per
revolution. The pinion is geared to about 1000 rotations per mile, so
that's 8000 pulses per mile.
One side of the switch is grounded and the other is
This is an area of some debate, but the general consensus is to stick with
5w-30 dino juice or Redline MTL. M1 caused slightly reduced shifting
performance for me, but since M1 is no longer a true synthetic anyway, it
probably doesn't matter.
Russ
Chris VanKauwenberg wrote:
The car is an 88'
A few years ago they announced a new formula and raised the price. The
story is that when they lost the lawsuit against Castrol for labelling an
oil that uses group III base a synthetic, Mobil 1 switched from a group
IV base down to a group III as well. I still have some old stock of M1,
but
The one on my mom's car broke the year we got the car in 1986. Being old
is not necessarily the problem. :)
I remember now that after replacing it once, we epoxied an aluminum plate
to the back of the handle after gluing it back together. I believe that
held for the rest of the life of the
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