Mark Sims skrev:
Interesting... I just fixed a couple of Tek CG551 and 5001 calibration
generators that had the same problem. Tek uses a DC isolated shift register
chain to drive the internal control signals. The clock and data lines run
through toroidal pulse transformers that are
Magnus,
time-nuts-boun...@febo.com wrote on 01/20/2009 04:47:26 PM:
Joseph M Gwinn skrev:
time-nuts-boun...@febo.com wrote on 01/20/2009 04:32:15 PM:
Bruce Griffiths skrev:
The relatively low thermal conductivity of the steel can will help
considerably in avoiding thermal damage if
Hi Joe,
Nope, Magnus is talking about foam insulated hermetically sealed
ocxo's.
The point you are missing is the preheater is only set for a temperature
that the foam, etc. can take on a continuous basis... such as +105C.
This preheat reduces the amount of additional heat that must be added
to
Chuck,
time-nuts-boun...@febo.com wrote on 01/21/2009 11:34:41 AM:
Hi Joe,
Nope, Magnus is talking about foam insulated hermetically sealed
ocxo's.
The point you are missing is the preheater is only set for a temperature
that the foam, etc. can take on a continuous basis... such as
Hi Joe,
When you preheat to 105C, you don't need to travel as far to
reach the melting point of the solder as you do from room
temperature (25C). That makes a big difference in how much
power you need to couple into the joint to make it melt.
If you go straight to the torch, and use the brute
Chuck,
time-nuts-boun...@febo.com wrote on 01/21/2009 12:41:44 PM:
Hi Joe,
When you preheat to 105C, you don't need to travel as far to
reach the melting point of the solder as you do from room
temperature (25C). That makes a big difference in how much
power you need to couple into the
Joe,
The pre-heating trick actually makes the big soldering iron rest most of
the time...
We have boards with so much ground/power grids that it is really a
headache to do without pre-heating, which is similar to the iron case
soldering problem.
So, doing it this way makes it go
Of Ed Palmer
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 4:07 PM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Wenzel Oscillator Repair
I hadn't thought of using a Dremel. Did you use an abrasive wheel or a
steel cutter? The case on mine looks to be about 20 ga. tin-plated
steel (~0.04 thick). The gap
: [time-nuts] Wenzel Oscillator Repair
Now I understand! I was planning to reuse the case. It didn't occur to
me to sacrifice the case and put the oscillator in another box.
Thanks for the idea, John.
Ed
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 21:20:54 -0800
From: John Miles jmi...@pop.net
anything, if they'd been soldered shut.
-- john, KE5FX
-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com]on
Behalf Of Ed Palmer
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 5:59 AM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Wenzel Oscillator Repair
Bruce Griffiths skrev:
The relatively low thermal conductivity of the steel can will help
considerably in avoiding thermal damage if the heat is applied to the joint.
If the can were copper it would be much more difficult to avoid thermal
damage.
When I needed to have a McCoy oscillator can
time-nuts-boun...@febo.com wrote on 01/20/2009 04:32:15 PM:
Bruce Griffiths skrev:
The relatively low thermal conductivity of the steel can will help
considerably in avoiding thermal damage if the heat is
applied to the joint.
If the can were copper it would be much more difficult to
Joseph M Gwinn skrev:
time-nuts-boun...@febo.com wrote on 01/20/2009 04:32:15 PM:
Bruce Griffiths skrev:
The relatively low thermal conductivity of the steel can will help
considerably in avoiding thermal damage if the heat is
applied to the joint.
If the can were copper it would be much
be.
I'd like to thank you, John, and everyone else for their ideas. They
were a great help.
Ed
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 09:28:31 -0800
From: John Miles jmi...@pop.net
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Wenzel Oscillator Repair
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
time
The problem with the oscillator turned out to be even easier to fix than
I could have hoped for. There's a ferrite transformer on the output -
possibly a balun. The wire is about the thickness of a hair. The
ferrite isn't tied down - it's just held by the leads. I don't know if
it took a
Interesting... I just fixed a couple of Tek CG551 and 5001 calibration
generators that had the same problem. Tek uses a DC isolated shift register
chain to drive the internal control signals. The clock and data lines run
through toroidal pulse transformers that are mounted on small plastic
Hello,
I have a piece of equipment with a Wenzel 5 MHz oscillator from the
Timekeeper http://www.wenzel.com/pdffiles1/Oscillators/TMK.pdf line.
It's functioning (that is, it's on frequency), but the output level is
20 - 30 db lower than it should be. The level seems to change every
time I
] Wenzel Oscillator Repair
Hello,
I have a piece of equipment with a Wenzel 5 MHz oscillator from the
Timekeeper http://www.wenzel.com/pdffiles1/Oscillators/TMK.pdf line.
It's functioning (that is, it's on frequency), but the output level is
20 - 30 db lower than it should be. The level seems
Ed Palmer wrote:
Does anyone
have any hints tips on how to open or repair one of these soldered-can
oscillators?
Ed, I have opened and repaired several sealed oscillators, OCXOs and
TCXOs, as well as crystal filters, with some success. In fact the
Isotemp OCXO in my homebrew GPS
Ed Palmer wrote:
Hello,
I have a piece of equipment with a Wenzel 5 MHz oscillator from the
Timekeeper http://www.wenzel.com/pdffiles1/Oscillators/TMK.pdf line.
It's functioning (that is, it's on frequency), but the output level is
20 - 30 db lower than it should be. The level seems to
Hello Ed,
For soldered cans I use a gas torch to melt the solder and then I pull
apart the soldered parts.
First I mark one side with a file/scribe to assist reassembly.
I usually put the can in a bench vice for a firm mechanical grip.
I put the soldered joint the furthest away from the vice
] Wenzel Oscillator Repair
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
time-nuts@febo.com
Message-ID: pkegjhphllbaceoiccbjmepmbbac.jmi...@pop.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
I had a similar problem with a 5 MHz OCXO from their ULN series. There was
a bad solder
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 11:22:12 +1300
From: Bruce Griffiths bruce.griffi...@xtra.co.nz
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Wenzel Oscillator Repair
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
time-nuts@febo.com
Message-ID: 4974fd14.7040...@xtra.co.nz
Content-Type: text
Ed
Thanks for the images.
Ed Palmer wrote:
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 11:22:12 +1300
From: Bruce Griffiths bruce.griffi...@xtra.co.nz
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Wenzel Oscillator Repair
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
time-nuts@febo.com
Message-ID
Ed,
Here is something else to try after you've got as much solder as
possible removed.
Place about 1/2 of the end oscillator can in a bench vise and apply
light pressure from corner to corner, cross wise. Then reverse the
can 180 degrees and do it again. Obviously you don't want to crush
: [time-nuts] Wenzel Oscillator Repair
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
time-nuts@febo.com
Message-ID: 497511e6.3090...@verizon.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Hello Ed,
For soldered cans I use a gas torch to melt the solder
I'll keep that in mind. It might be just the trick to break the last
bit of the seal. But the case is so thick that I don't think 'light
pressure' will do the job! :-)
Ed
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 18:12:08 -0800
From: Had h...@to-way.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Wenzel Oscillator
Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com]on
Behalf Of Ed Palmer
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 4:07 PM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Wenzel Oscillator Repair
I hadn't thought of using a Dremel. Did you use an abrasive wheel or a
steel
John Miles wrote:
I used a fiberglass-reinforced cutoff wheel. This can open practically
anything, but it puts a lot of vibration and dust into the innards of
whatever you're taking apart. My guess was that this was safer than using a
torch.
I've repaired many hermetically sealed
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