Now I understand! I was planning to reuse the case. It didn't occur to me to sacrifice the case and put the oscillator in another box.
Thanks for the idea, John. Ed > Message: 3 > Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 21:20:54 -0800 > From: "John Miles" <[email protected]> > Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Wenzel Oscillator Repair > To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" > <[email protected]> > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I used a fiberglass-reinforced cutoff wheel. This can open practically > anything, but it puts a lot of vibration and dust into the innards of > whatever you're taking apart. My guess was that this was safer than using a > torch. > > Since I wasn't going to be able to maintain the original hermeticity, I > remounted the oscillator in a Hammond box, like so: > > http://www.thegleam.com/ke5fx/w1.jpg > > I brought the trimmer (which was also damaged in this particular oscillator) > and oven-status LED out to the box lid, along with the four original > terminals. Makes a nice package that can be easily opened for maintenance: > > http://www.thegleam.com/ke5fx/w2.jpg > > The repackaged OCXO seems to work fine. I haven't made any hardcore > measurements with it but I can tell just by watching the counter that its > short-term stability is similar to my other unmolested 5 MHz ULN. > > -- john, KE5FX > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]on >> Behalf Of Ed Palmer >> Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 4:07 PM >> To: [email protected] >> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Wenzel Oscillator Repair >> >> >> I hadn't thought of using a Dremel. Did you use an abrasive wheel or a >> steel cutter? The case on mine looks to be about 20 ga. tin-plated >> steel (~0.04" thick). The gap is so small it might have been a friction >> fit to start with. >> >> Ed >> >>> From: "John Miles" <[email protected]> >>> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Wenzel Oscillator Repair >>> To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement" >>> <[email protected]> >>> Message-ID: <[email protected]> >>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >>> >>> I had a similar problem with a 5 MHz OCXO from their ULN >>> >> series. There was >> >>> a bad solder joint on the output connection, easy enough to fix >>> >> once I got >> >>> the unit open. >>> >>> In my case I used a Dremel tool to cut the seam. Suggest wearing a dust >>> mask, obviously, and keep your cuts close to the perimeter of >>> >> the can, in >> >>> case the PC board comes right up to the edge like mine did. >>> >>> -- john, KE5FX >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] >> To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
