Re: [time-nuts] GPS satellite outages.

[Magnus Danielson]

Hi Mark,

Both PRN 11 and PRN 12 is listed for outage due to maintenance. During 
that period they should not be tracked.


I sent the latest annoucement showing this.

Receivers should follow the health status, and we should monitor if it 
is being ignored.


Cheers,
Magnus

On 05/19/2017 02:47 AM, Mark Sims wrote:

Earlier today, GPS sat PRN 11 was offline for a few hours.  PRN 12 will be 
offline until tomorrow.   I'm not sure if it is the cause, but my Ublox M8 
locked up.   My Venus timing receiver says it is tracking PRN 12.  Most of my 
other receivers sat PRN 12 is either unhealthy or visible but not being tracked.
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Re: [time-nuts] Looking for info on Trimble 16634-10

[Bill Hawkins]

FWIW, that looks like aviation equipment (gov't or civil), with a
locking connector.

That stuff is designed for minimum size and weight. You might find the
inside of the box quite cramped.

Buying aviation parts is even more expensive than buying boat parts.

Bill Hawkins


-Original Message-
From: time-nuts on behalf Of Bob Bownes
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 10:48 PM

Pretty sure that connector is an off the shelf Amphenol part. If you
can't find it, however, you can replace it with an off the shelf one
that will fit in the same hole. (If your lucky, you can even re-use the
pins.)

The replacement will run you about $30-40 for the pair, chassis and
plug. Check Mouser, etc. 

> On May 19, 2017, at 23:21, Bob kb8tq  wrote:
> 
> The mating side of that 22 pin connector isn't going to be cheap. It 
> looks like something out of their government systems group back in the
late 90's. If it is, you may have a hard time getting info on it.
> I'd pop it open and see what's inside. At least that will give you an 
> idea if it's 20 years old or 5 years old. Knowing the era should help
in the search for information.
> 
> Bob
> 
>> On May 19, 2017, at 10:21 PM, Scott Armstrong  wrote:
>> 
>> I acquired a Trimble 16634-10 receiver. A search of the web has 
>> turned up nothing so far.
>> The unit is in a steel box built like a tank. SMA connector for 
>> antenna input and a 22 pin circular connector for the I/O and power
>> 

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Re: [time-nuts] Looking for info on Trimble 16634-10

[Bob Bownes]

Pretty sure that connector is an off the shelf Amphenol part. If you can't find 
it, however, you can replace it with an off the shelf one that will fit in the 
same hole. (If your lucky, you can even re-use the pins.)

The replacement will run you about $30-40 for the pair, chassis and plug. Check 
Mouser, etc. 

> On May 19, 2017, at 23:21, Bob kb8tq  wrote:
> 
> Hi
> 
> The mating side of that 22 pin connector isn’t going to be cheap. It looks 
> like something out of their 
> government systems group back in the late 90’s. If it is, you may have a hard 
> time getting info on it.
> I’d pop it open and see what’s inside. At least that will give you an idea if 
> it’s 20 years old or 5 years
> old. Knowing the era should help in the search for information. 
> 
> Bob
> 
>> On May 19, 2017, at 10:21 PM, Scott Armstrong  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello all,
>> 
>> I acquired a Trimble 16634-10 receiver. A search of the web has turned up
>> nothing so far.
>> The unit is in a steel box built like a tank. SMA connector for antenna
>> input and a 22 pin circular connector for the I/O and power
>> 
>> Does anyone have any pin out information, specs, etc.?
>> 
>> A picture of the unit can bee seen on ebay at
>> 
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIMBLE-NAVIGATION-GPS-UNIT-16634-10-/361934484802?nma=true=8bBNGShIPf%252FvJpucfMDlEGXDrwI%253D_cvip=true=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks in advance,
>> 
>> Scott AA5AM
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Re: [time-nuts] Looking for info on Trimble 16634-10

[Bob kb8tq]

Hi

The mating side of that 22 pin connector isn’t going to be cheap. It looks like 
something out of their 
government systems group back in the late 90’s. If it is, you may have a hard 
time getting info on it.
I’d pop it open and see what’s inside. At least that will give you an idea if 
it’s 20 years old or 5 years
old. Knowing the era should help in the search for information. 

Bob

> On May 19, 2017, at 10:21 PM, Scott Armstrong  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I acquired a Trimble 16634-10 receiver. A search of the web has turned up
> nothing so far.
> The unit is in a steel box built like a tank. SMA connector for antenna
> input and a 22 pin circular connector for the I/O and power
> 
> Does anyone have any pin out information, specs, etc.?
> 
> A picture of the unit can bee seen on ebay at
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIMBLE-NAVIGATION-GPS-UNIT-16634-10-/361934484802?nma=true=8bBNGShIPf%252FvJpucfMDlEGXDrwI%253D_cvip=true=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Scott AA5AM
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[time-nuts] Looking for info on Trimble 16634-10

[Scott Armstrong]

Hello all,

I acquired a Trimble 16634-10 receiver. A search of the web has turned up
nothing so far.
The unit is in a steel box built like a tank. SMA connector for antenna
input and a 22 pin circular connector for the I/O and power

Does anyone have any pin out information, specs, etc.?

A picture of the unit can bee seen on ebay at

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIMBLE-NAVIGATION-GPS-UNIT-16634-10-/361934484802?nma=true=8bBNGShIPf%252FvJpucfMDlEGXDrwI%253D_cvip=true=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


Thanks in advance,

Scott AA5AM
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Re: [time-nuts] Machining some aluminum help!

[Bob kb8tq]

Hi


> On May 19, 2017, at 5:35 PM, Chris Albertson  
> wrote:
> 
> Yes, threaded inserts.  There are many kinds but they are used almost
> universally for cases where the material to be threaded is soft, like
> aluminum.   They also eliminate or reduce galvanic corrosion which is an
> issue with steel screws in aluminum.  (that said, as long as you keep water
> away you are OK.)

There are some interesting internal studies out of places like Boeing that 
suggest the “keep moisture
away” includes some pretty modest levels of humidity …. It then becomes a 
question of if you do
or do not accept their methods. 

Bob


> Still these inserts are the "class" way to go and will
> save some broken taps.
> 
> As for a seal, it is hard to beat o-rings.  A proper designed o-ring seal
> does not need much clamping pressure as it depends on the pressure inside
> to force the ring in place and hold it there.
> 
> On Fri, May 19, 2017 at 12:51 PM, Lincoln  wrote:
> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> There are a lot of variables involved. Run the screws in and out of the
>> aluminum a number of times and
>>> the holes will fail first ….There are other gotchas as well.
>>> 
>>> Bob
>>> 
>> 
>> This is where helicoils come in to play. They are used a lot on the CVD
>> furnaces that I used to make parts for. They are not just for un-buggering
>> a thread. They would be installed form the get go and could be replaced
>> should something gall.
>> 
>> Link
>> ___
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>> mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
>> and follow the instructions there.
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> Chris Albertson
> Redondo Beach, California
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Re: [time-nuts] Machining some aluminum help!

[Chris Albertson]

I worked on a project like this once.  No screws at all.  Rather then a 0.1
PSI over pressure. the interior was flush with dry gas then pumped out with
to  a crude vacuum with a hand pump.  Air pressure alone force the cover
plate on.  OK a couple screws where there just to aid in assembly but the
cheap $12 hand pump was good enough.

"high vacuum" requires expensive equipment and is a black art but "crude
vacuum" is easy, easier then holding a pressure because the forces are
pushing the seal together for you.

On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 2:46 PM, jimlux  wrote:

> On 5/18/17 1:34 PM, cdel...@juno.com wrote:
>
>> Well that generated a lot of advice and thanks for it!
>> I think I might do it myself and go with a 1/2" hole depth and 1/4"
>> threaded depth.
>> I'll get some of that Aluminum Tap magic, some new taps and new drill
>> bits.
>> Good idea about drilling the end plates first and drilling thru to match.
>> Between the end plate and the tube is a gasket that needs to seal
>> pressure and moisture tight. That's why I used 5 per side.
>>
>
> I would make the end plate "real thick",with a machined groove for the
> o-ring, and use some sort of latches to hold it in place, rather than "lots
> 'o screws".  Unless you've got a real tight space constraint. How much
> pressure do you have to hold? That will determine the clamping force needed
> on your gasket (and potentially, on your fasteners).  Do you need the full
> 4.5x4.5" inside clear space? A 1/4-20 bolt in the corner might be a good
> way to go.
>
> There's also inexpensive surplus vacuum equipment around, as well as run
> of the mill plumbing. Unless Steel (stainless or not) isn't an option.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> Will let you know how it turns out.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Corby
>>
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>



-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
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Re: [time-nuts] Machining some aluminum help!

[Chris Albertson]

Yes, threaded inserts.  There are many kinds but they are used almost
universally for cases where the material to be threaded is soft, like
aluminum.   They also eliminate or reduce galvanic corrosion which is an
issue with steel screws in aluminum.  (that said, as long as you keep water
away you are OK.)Still these inserts are the "class" way to go and will
save some broken taps.

As for a seal, it is hard to beat o-rings.  A proper designed o-ring seal
does not need much clamping pressure as it depends on the pressure inside
to force the ring in place and hold it there.

On Fri, May 19, 2017 at 12:51 PM, Lincoln  wrote:

>
> >
> > There are a lot of variables involved. Run the screws in and out of the
> aluminum a number of times and
> > the holes will fail first ….There are other gotchas as well.
> >
> > Bob
> >
>
> This is where helicoils come in to play. They are used a lot on the CVD
> furnaces that I used to make parts for. They are not just for un-buggering
> a thread. They would be installed form the get go and could be replaced
> should something gall.
>
> Link
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> mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
>



-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
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Re: [time-nuts] Machining some aluminum help!

[Bob Bownes]

We also used helicoils in titanium frames of the supercomputer I used to work 
with. Meant we could use relatively standard fasteners without fear of falling. 

On a time nuts related note, I have a u blox GPS-1E that seems to be stuck 
spewing out in ublox format. With no development sw available (that runs on my 
Mac), I'm looking for the correct string to send its way to change it back to 
NMEA. Anyone point me at some docs or know the appropriate string?

Thanks!
Bob

> On May 19, 2017, at 15:51, Lincoln  wrote:
> 
> 
>> 
>> There are a lot of variables involved. Run the screws in and out of the 
>> aluminum a number of times and 
>> the holes will fail first ….There are other gotchas as well.
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
> 
> This is where helicoils come in to play. They are used a lot on the CVD 
> furnaces that I used to make parts for. They are not just for un-buggering a 
> thread. They would be installed form the get go and could be replaced should 
> something gall. 
> 
> Link
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[time-nuts] GPS satellite outages.

[Mark Sims]

Earlier today, GPS sat PRN 11 was offline for a few hours.  PRN 12 will be 
offline until tomorrow.   I'm not sure if it is the cause, but my Ublox M8 
locked up.   My Venus timing receiver says it is tracking PRN 12.  Most of my 
other receivers sat PRN 12 is either unhealthy or visible but not being tracked.
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Re: [time-nuts] Machining some aluminum help!

[Scott McGrath]

Corby

Unless you have the tubing and plates machined flat they will leak as the 
tubing sides are not guaranteed to be flat and parallel wrt each side and 
aluminum plate stock is not flat unless you purchase 'tooling plate' which is 
ground parallel on both sides

So creating a seal is problematic at best

Content by Scott
Typos by Siri

> On May 19, 2017, at 4:23 PM,   wrote:
> 
> Thanks everyone.
> 
> Not looking for a redesign, just figuring out how to get the holes
> drilled and tapped.
> 
> I have come up with a scheme that looks promising and will let you know
> how it goes.
> 
> The enclosure only has to hold +.1PSI of dry nitrogen without leaking.
> 
> It will have a pressure sensor inside to allow long term monitoring.
> 
> From the feedback and some research I will be reducing the depth of the
> threaded portion.
> 
> Cheers, 
> 
> Corby
> 
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[time-nuts] Machining some aluminum help!

[cdelect]

Thanks everyone.

Not looking for a redesign, just figuring out how to get the holes
drilled and tapped.

I have come up with a scheme that looks promising and will let you know
how it goes.

The enclosure only has to hold +.1PSI of dry nitrogen without leaking.

It will have a pressure sensor inside to allow long term monitoring.

>From the feedback and some research I will be reducing the depth of the
threaded portion.

Cheers, 

Corby

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Re: [time-nuts] Bay Area Maker Faire '17

[Lincoln]

I will be going, likely tomorrow…

> On May 12, 2017, at 7:46 AM, Nick Sayer via time-nuts  
> wrote:
> 
> Anybody else going to Bay Area Maker Faire next weekend? I’ll have a booth 
> there (heavy on clocks and GPS) and would love to meet anyone going.
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Re: [time-nuts] Machining some aluminum help!

[Lincoln]

> 
> There are a lot of variables involved. Run the screws in and out of the 
> aluminum a number of times and 
> the holes will fail first ….There are other gotchas as well.
> 
> Bob
> 

This is where helicoils come in to play. They are used a lot on the CVD 
furnaces that I used to make parts for. They are not just for un-buggering a 
thread. They would be installed form the get go and could be replaced should 
something gall. 

Link
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Re: [time-nuts] Machining some aluminum help!

[Chris Albertson]

To tell the truth I had not worked this out.But I wonder of the screws
fail first on
they are in aluminum holes with only 1/4 of thread.

Which fails depends on the material and the number of engaged threads,

But if what you say is right for this case.  It strengthens my case for
using self threading screws.  I try and use these when I can.

What you do is center punch the screw location around the end plate.  Then
glue the end plat in place using blue lock tight. (or even two tiny daps of
"Super Glue")  then go to the drip pressed drill through the endplate into
the edge of the wall and insert one screw.  The right size the type screw
will cut its own thread as you screw it in.  Then drill neither hole and
put in another screw.   It is imported to place the screw as you drill to
keep alignment, even when using the glue.   Later take out the screw and
break the glue, reassemble.



On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 5:13 PM, jimlux  wrote:

> On 5/18/17 2:36 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
>
>> It would be easy to re-design the job for cheaper machining..  Do you
>> really need to tap the holes?  You might use self taping screws.  Id the
>> would work then you can do the work yourself with just a hand drill.
>>
>> OK it you must use machine threads and they must be #4 size try "rivets"
>> these work like pop rivets but leave a hollow thread insert in the hole
>> that will take screws.  Takes all of 5 seconds to install a thread hole.
>>
>> Think again about threading aluminum.  It is not very strong, it would be
>> easy for an end user to strip the #4 threads.  Better to use the rivet or
>> other steel thread insert.Even native nuts  installed with flush
>> rivets
>> is better
>>
>
> Interestingly enough, for 4-40 hardware, the screws fail before the
> aluminum does.  The area of the thread engagement is quite a bit larger
> than the cross section of the fastener that is not thread.
>
> For large fasteners, where the thread depth is a smaller fraction of the
> fastener diameter, this may not be the case (as anyone who has stripped the
> threads on an aluminum cylinder head with a steel sparkplug will know, in a
> deep and visceral way).
>
>
>
>
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-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
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[time-nuts] MIT flea meet-up for time-nuts

[Eric Scace]

The MIT Flea  occurs this Sunday (May 21) 
from 09:00–14:00.

Come join us for a bite at Flour Café 
 at the end of the block 
(190 Mass Ave) at 11:30. I’d love to hear about your time projects & lab, see 
your trophies from the flea market, etc.

Drop me a note off-list if you can come — I’ll save you a seat at the table. If 
the weather is good, we’ll be outside.

— Eric K3NA


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Re: [time-nuts] Machining some aluminum help!

[Joseph Gwinn]

On Fri, 19 May 2017 12:00:01 -0400, time-nuts-requ...@febo.com wrote:
> Re: [time-nuts] Machining some aluminum help!

It's much easier to use thread-forming taps in aluminum than thread 
cutting, and the threads are far stronger.  Blind holes are not as 
large a problem.  Lubricate with soft wax, not Tap-Magic.  Also, why 
4-40 in a 0.25" thick wall?  A larger screw will actually be easier and 
again, stronger.

.

.

Joe Gwinn
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